Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, March 19
2003 Volume 02 : Number 108
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:40:24 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SARD Boost Controller
That Boost Controller looks a lot like a SARD Trigger Boost
controller.
I have never seen one in person but there are a few Australian
performance shops that sell it for $1100 Au ????
There is also a guy on E-bay (Japandy) who always has 20-30 auctions
for used performance parts shipped from Japan. He has great Feedback
so
I emailed him about this controller. He said that he would
probably be
able to get a used one in a few weeks for a reasonable
price (I think
$300?) I was going to get one just to be different
but never got
around to it.
John Monnin
Here's a slick combination electronic boost controller and digital boost
gauge that I just found. It's in a standard gauge shape, so you could put
it in a pillar pod! The Autospeed.com site that
it's listed on is the
best automotive site/magazine I've found on the internet. If they're
selling it, it's probably a good unit.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:34:09 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Long Block Engine
Why a long block just get a factory short block form Tallahassee Mitsu for
like 2800 and swap all the rest of the components from your car. It
should only take like 2 weeks at the very most.
FYI long block includes the complete heads a short block is the bottom end
(pistons, rods, crank, etc... all assembled)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Arthurs Family
[mailto:arthursfam@madbbs.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 6:51 PM
Greetings,
The engine knock I asked you folks about a few weeks ago is now diagnosed
as rod bearing(s). With spring about to start in 4 days, I don't want to
be
rebuilding this engine all summer. Does anyone have a
suggestion where to
go for a QUALITY rebuilt LONG block for a '92 Twin
Turbo in the northeast?
Thank you for any & all suggestions.
Jon Arthurs
Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 07:29:27 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cleaning K&N FIPK filter
At 03:40 PM 3/18/03 , you wrote:
>Is there a description someplace on
how to do it properly, and
>specially how to oil the K&N'
filters?
I talked with a mechanic on Monday about cleaning the K&N filters and
he
said that Formula 409 is the best cleaner (he seemed to imply that
K&N
filter cleaner IS Formula 409).
Here is a link from the K&N filter web site on cleaning.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:25:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: [none]
The reason that I did not believe it was this was because I had just
changed the left CV shaft thinking that was the problem. When putting it
back together I was turning the whole hub and strut assemble to get the tie rod
back in place and it was really hanging up then. So if the tie rod was not
in place yet it could not be the rack and pinion. My lower ball joint did
not look great but I do not think that would cause the hang up. It has to be the
upper strut mount right? Thanks, Casey '91 VR-4
> It could also be the rack & pinion. I have had that problem
on other
> cars. A broken tooth on the rack could go unnoticed for a
long time.
It steered easy one way, then the other way was difficult at a certain
point. It depends on the break of the tooth. I hope it is the upper
bearing, and it probably is, but if it isn't...
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 08:40:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Popping noise while turning
Whenever I turn to the left and bring the wheel back it seems to catch at a
certain point. It seems that the whole spring assembly is catching at the top.
Would this be the upper strut mount? Does it even have one ('91 Vr-4, Front
Left)? It's not the CV shaft or the tie rod end. What else could it be?
Thanks, Casey
------------------------------
Have you changed the springs or struts on the car? When I installed
my lowering springs the first time, I didn't know the assembly had to be lined
up just right... Turns out the upper and lower spring perches have to be
lined up just right (there is an alignment hole), else you will get something
similar to what's happening to you now
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey Spivey
Sent: Wednesday,
March 19, 2003 10:26 AM
The reason that I did not believe it was this was because I had just
changed the left CV shaft thinking that was the problem. When putting it
back together I was turning the whole hub and strut assemble to get the tie rod
back in place and it was really hanging up then. So if the tie rod was not
in place yet it could not be the rack and pinion. My lower ball joint did
not look great but I do not think that would cause the hang up. It has to be the
upper strut mount right? Thanks, Casey '91 VR-4
> It could also be the rack & pinion. I have had that problem
on other
> cars. A broken tooth on the rack could go unnoticed for a
long time.
It steered easy one way, then the other way was difficult at a certain
point. It depends on the break of the tooth. I hope it is the upper
bearing, and it probably is, but if it isn't...
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 08:40:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Popping noise while turning
Whenever I turn to the left and bring the wheel back it seems to catch at a
certain point. It seems that the whole spring assembly is catching at the top.
Would this be the upper strut mount? Does it even have one ('91 Vr-4, Front
Left)? It's not the CV shaft or the tie rod end. What else could it be?
Thanks, Casey
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:45:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Popping noise while turning
Yes I have put new springs on. I put Eibach's on about 30K miles ago. I had
it aligned right after that too but they never said anything.
So could it be
that the upper strut mount is good but the springs are just out of whack because
of the alignment? I am supposed to take it in today to get it realigned.
The problem is it is lowered and I have 19" wheels and most places say that they
can't align it. Also, when the guy put in the springs I don't think they
cut the bump stops. For some reason I remember the instructions saying that they
had to be cut. Does the service manual describe lining those holes up?
Thanks, Casey
Have you changed the springs or struts on the car? When I installed
my lowering springs the first time, I didn't know the assembly had to be lined
up just right... Turns out the upper and lower spring perches have to be
lined up just right (there is an alignment hole), else you will get something
similar to what's happening to you now
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey Spivey
Sent: Wednesday,
March 19, 2003 10:26 AM
The reason that I did not believe it was this was because I had just
changed the left CV shaft thinking that was the problem. When putting it
back together I was turning the whole hub and strut assemble to get the tie rod
back in place and it was really hanging up then. So if the tie rod was not
in place yet it could not be the rack and pinion. My lower ball joint did
not look great but I do not think that would cause the hang up. It has to be the
upper strut mount right? Thanks, Casey '91 VR-4
> It could also be the rack & pinion. I have had that problem
on other
> cars. A broken tooth on the rack could go unnoticed for a
long time.
It steered easy one way, then the other way was difficult at a certain
point. It depends on the break of the tooth. I hope it is the upper
bearing, and it probably is, but if it isn't...
------------------------------
No, no no! You are misunderstanding what Cody said. There is a
lower spring perch and an upper spring perch on the strut assembly. When
you replace the stock springs, the upper spring perch can rotate freely, until
you set the weight of the car on it. There is a large hole on the upper
spring perch that should be lined up with the hole in the lower spring perch. If
not, the steering acts squirrelly. If it's not lined up, jack up the front
end of the car and turn the upper spring perch until it is lined up.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey Spivey
[mailto:spiv99@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 10:45 AM
Yes I have put new springs on. I put Eibach's on about 30K miles ago. I had
it aligned right after that too but they never said anything.
So could it be
that the upper strut mount is good but the springs are just out of whack because
of the alignment? I am supposed to take it in today to get it realigned.
The problem is it is lowered and I have 19" wheels and most places say that they
can't align it. Also, when the guy put in the springs I don't think they
cut the bump stops. For some reason I remember the instructions saying that they
had to be cut. Does the service manual describe lining those holes up?
Thanks, Casey
Have you changed the springs or struts on the car? When I installed
my lowering springs the first time, I didn't know the assembly had to be lined
up just right... Turns out the upper and lower spring perches have to be
lined up just right (there is an alignment hole), else you will get something
similar to what's happening to you now
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:53:42 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Popping noise while turning
Yes, the service manual has a diagram regarding perch alignment...
The bumpstop doesn't HAVE to be cut, and it won't affect anything except for
overall travel of the suspension... The alignment should have nothing to
do with this clunking noise... You need to find the two large alignment
holes and see if they are lined up on both sides of the car first...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey Spivey
Sent: Wednesday,
March 19, 2003 10:45 AM
Yes I have put new springs on. I put Eibach's on about 30K miles ago. I had
it aligned right after that too but they never said anything.
So could it be
that the upper strut mount is good but the springs are just out of whack because
of the alignment? I am supposed to take it in today to get it realigned.
The problem is it is lowered and I have 19" wheels and most places say that they
can't align it. Also, when the guy put in the springs I don't think they
cut the bump stops. For some reason I remember the instructions saying that they
had to be cut. Does the service manual describe lining those holes up?
Thanks, Casey
------------------------------
At 08:45 AM 3/19/03 -0800, Casey Spivey wrote:
>Yes I have put new
springs on. I put Eibach's on about 30K miles ago. I
>had it aligned
right after that too but they never said anything. So
>could it be that
the upper strut mount is good but the springs are just
>out of whack
because of the alignment? I am supposed to take it in
>today to get it
realigned.
Aha! I think I know your problem: You have dirt or gunk on the spring
landings. Once it's up in the air, with the weight off the springs, reach in
there with a rag and wipe the landings top and bottom. If you get out gravel,
sand, bugs, old nuts and bolts, and a mouse or two, that's yer problem.
I suspect that when you installed the Eibachs, you did not put a rubber
prophylactic around the spring to keep the dirt out. Dirt collects on the
landings, and eventually makes lots of noise.
There is no cure, other than periodically cleaning them. If you try to lube
the landing, it'll just collect dirt faster.
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:05:20 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Popping noise while turning
Actually, with full length springs (anything but ground controls really),
the upper strut perch can only be rotated vs the bottom with the spring
compressed (unless you are really really really strong...)
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003
10:54 AM
No, no no! You are misunderstanding what Cody said. There is a
lower spring perch and an upper spring perch on the strut assembly. When
you replace the stock springs, the upper spring perch can rotate freely, until
you set the weight of the car on it. There is a large hole on the upper
spring perch that should be lined up with the hole in the lower spring perch. If
not, the steering acts squirrelly. If it's not lined up, jack up the front
end of the car and turn the upper spring perch until it is lined up.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
I've never heard of having to align the upper and lower spring perches
before! Could you elaborate a little?
- - Brian
> Have you changed the springs or struts on the car? When I
installed
> my lowering springs the first time, I didn't know the assembly
had to
> be lined up just right... Turns out the upper and lower
spring
> perches have to be lined up just right (there is an alignment
hole),
> else you will get something similar to what's happening to you
now
------------------------------
There are three holes in the upper spring perch. The center one is
larger than the other two. This larger hole must be aligned with the hole
in the lower spring perch (the strut body). If it is not, when you turn,
the upper spring perch will press against the inner wall of the upper strut
tower, and will cause the spring to rotate within the perch. This will cause a
clunk sound every time it happens. I learned this when I first installed
Intrax springs on my car. Look in the service manual, there is a detailed
diagram with this info on it...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Wednesday,
March 19, 2003 11:24 AM
I've never heard of having to align the upper and lower spring perches
before! Could you elaborate a little?
- - Brian
------------------------------
any adjustable ride height setup that does not make use of the STOCK upper
spring perch works the way I described. like you said anything except
"full length springs". Jeff Lucius' site describing the GC installation
and GC instructions both say to discard the stock upper spring perch, but it
didn't work for us. We had to keep it in our setup and align it
properly.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 13:40:40 EST
From:
JimMcMa@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Slipping
Transmission??
This is the third Automatic Transmission in my 1993 3000 GTSL, which has
97,000 miles on it. I do not race the car at all and try to just drive
sensibly with it.
The other two transmissions just simply stopped working. The first had been
under warrantee.
This transmission now has 8500 miles on it in 2 and a half years. While
driving the car at speed , if I step on the gas to accelerate, something
slips causing the tach RPM's to increase, but no movement out of the car. I
need to let back off the gas and slowly increase the speed for it to work
normally. It happens infrequently, but it does happen. This does not occur
from a dead stop though. I Called the dealer who states it should not be the
transmission and they will need to check it. They want 300 dollars to
diagnose a problem. Does anyone have any ideas before I have to spend the
money.
Thanks,
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 12:42:26 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Popping noise while turning
Correct.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003
12:36 PM
any adjustable ride height setup that does not make use of the STOCK upper
spring perch works the way I described. like you said anything except
"full length springs". Jeff Lucius' site describing the GC installation
and GC instructions both say to discard the stock upper spring perch, but it
didn't work for us. We had to keep it in our setup and align it
properly.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 15:11:49 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Slipping Transmission??
Unfortunately, very few of our members have automatics, so input from the
rest of us will be relatively slight. Since operation is only sluggish at
times, it's probably not an irreversible condition, but that also depends on
whether or not there is something else wrong with the car - that caused the
other 2 failures.
Basing it on past experience with other automatics, I'm guessing that any
of a number of issues might apply: wrong amount of fluid (or wrong fluid),
improper torquing of something on the reinstall, improper reinstall, bent frame
that doesn't allow components to line up properly, you were charged for a
rebuilt tranny that never really was rebuilt, faulty electronic control (but it
has a self-diagnostic built in), sticky damper clutch, debris in the converter,
control cable has slipped, transfer shaft pre-load is set incorrectly, pressure
control solenoid is shot... You get the idea - there are probably 50
subsystems in a slushbox tranny.
If you have the manual (you DO have a manual, RIGHT!?!), and access to
tools (and you are comfortable with them), you can check many of the systems
yourself. Without a manual, you're pretty much at the mercy of the dealer
or shop. You might want to contact that tranny shop listed on our "Good
Guys" Dealers and Vendors page, "East Coast Transmissions" (I think), since they
specialize in auto trannies for our cars. Explain your problem and hope
you get lucky and they've "seen it before"... If you want to check this
out yourself and you don't have a manual, we list sources for the manual in the
FAQ Index Page - under Basics. You'll find the Good Guys page link there
too... Good luck!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:05:26 -0600
From: "steve ludi" <
sl10110@alltel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Power steering boot replacement
Newbie needs help. I've looked thru the archives but can't seem to find
exactly what I need. Both power steering boots need replacing. Can I just
undo the lock nut on the tie rod or do I need to go thru the tie rod knuckle and
therefore use the special tool described in the manual? Thanks
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:39:18 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Basic Performance Modifications
I'm not so sure about bleeder valves, as they can actually change boost
pressure with relation to temperature and humidity... MBC's have a spring
and ball bearing design to account for this...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald Ashby
Sent: Saturday, March
15, 2003 2:37 AM
My friend with a 2g Talon has a avc-r, he says it was the biggest waste of
money ever spent, we unplugged it and put in my $5 bleeder valve, after about 15
minutes we had it set to the same boost, it took half an hour to set on the
avc-r. I've never put a EBC on my car, always ran with my MBC, and according to
my boost gauge it runs pretty solid boost, fairly easy to change to, pop hood,
unscrew/screw in/out hop back in drive off.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:35:55 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Basic Performance Modifications
Bleeder valves -are- dangerous.
On Wed, 19 Mar 2003, cody wrote:
> I'm not so sure about bleeder valves, as they can actually
change
> boost pressure with relation to temperature and humidity...
MBC's
> have a spring and ball bearing design to account for
this...
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 16:50:23 -0600 (CST)
From: William Crabtree
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Power steering boot replacement
I've rebuilt my steering rack and I know that you can buy boot replacement
kits from the dealer, I'm sorry but I don't know how much they cost. In
order to access the boot, you need to remove the tie rod and then remove the end
from the shaft. WHILE YOU'RE THERE, you might want to consider just
replacing the tie rod ends, they do wear out and it seems to me that they
weren't that expensive anyway (maybe $25-ish). Mark your settings on your
tie rods so that you can try to get them back to where they were before you took
them apart. You will likely need a front end alignment after all of this
which may end up being the most expensive part of the whole project.
P.S. Special tool, my ass....just use a pickle-fork carefully and
it'll come loose.
- -Jeff Crabtree
....Getting ever closer
- -------Original Message-------
From: steve ludi <
sl10110@alltel.net>
Sent: 03/19/03
06:05 PM
<<<SNIP>>>Both power steering boots need replacing.
Can I just undo the lock nut on the tie rod or do I need to go thru the tie rod
knuckle and therefore use the special tool described in the manual?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:53:30 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Power steering boot replacement
Found the easy way to separate that junction tie rod to knuckle... Beat the
knuckle on the side with a steel hammer... After a couple of whacks, take
a rubber mallet and hit the tie rod end link down (the threaded part - you did
remove the locknut right?) Should come right out...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 17:00:43 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Power steering boot replacement
Good call !!! the pickle fork is a little tough on rubber boots. Just be
careful of the threaded stud --- keep the bolt on it.
Jim Berry
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 19, 2003 4:53 PM
> Found the easy way to separate that junction tie rod to
knuckle...
> Beat the knuckle on the side with a steel hammer...
After a couple of
> whacks, take a rubber mallet and hit the tie rod end
link down (the
> threaded part - you did remove the locknut right?)
Should come right
> out...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 17:06:39 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Power steering boot replacement
I'd have to look again but you can probably just unscrew the tie rod from
the tie rod end. I would think it should come all the way out when you loosen
the lock nut.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 00:44:45 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
FRAM filter question
I keep hearing advice to stay away from FRAM filters. There must be a good
reason why I should do that. So if you know the reason please explain.
Also, are there any particular models that are bad? Are there any models
that are good?
I went to a local car parts store today and bought a Mobil1 filter for my
daily driver for $9.99 plus tax. EXPENSIVE, damn! A salesman tried to tell
me to buy a $3.69 Fram filter because he claimed it was much better. I
compared the labels and Mobil1 says "...one of the highest single pass
efficiency ratings available, with 98% particle removal at 10 to 20
microns. Multiple pass tests ... are 95% efficient in removing harmful
contaminants from engine oil". A Fram filter had the same statement with
respective numbers of 97% and 94% at 1/3 the price. I should have bought
AC-Delco, but the salesman told me they did not have AC-Delco filters for
my car (lied again, I realized only now).
So what do those bad Fram filters do to cars and which models are okay and
which models I should stay away from?
Philip
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#108
***************************************
