Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Tuesday, March 18 2003    Volume 02 : Number 107
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:59:04 -0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: General question
 
So do you think they calculated the service price in when they designed it?
 
Joseph
93 VR-4
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Woll
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 7:37 PM
 
Yeah - and for the average guy in 3s car they costs 1000 to change when my BMW costs zero and my Subaru costs 200.  Its design technology like this that makes simple things expensive. I can really feel the weight difference. Yep - about a pound for the belt. and, Yep - about 2 pounds for the chain. Wow, that ought to make a big difference. Sorry for the sarcasm. I just plain hate timing belts.
 
Andy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 20:12:23 -0500
From: bob atkins <ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
Thanks for the reply Dan - but neither site shows a digital boost gauge available.
 
I am still looking and hoping someone on the list can recall the source of this gauge. 
 
Thanks in advance
Badbob
 
on 3/16/03 11:59 PM, Dan Hyde at danielhyde@attbi.com wrote:
 
> I can't comment specifically about the link source you are looking
> for. However, below are a couple digital gauge suppliers that might be
> of interest.
>
> http://www.dakotadigital.com/Detail.cfm?Category=01&PartNumber=ODYR-09
> -1
>
> http://www.pptracing.com/
>
> Dan
> 97 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 20:12:37 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Eibachs and Sunroofs
 
Sorry if I'm re-hashing a stale subject but someone on eBay wants to know why my Eibach Pro-Kit is not recommended for sunroof cars.  Has this little mystery ever been solved?
 
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 17:16:23 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
Here's a slick combination electronic boost controller and digital boost gauge that I just found.  It's in a standard gauge shape, so you could put it in a pillar pod!  The Autospeed.com site that it's listed on is the best automotive site/magazine I've found on the internet.  If they're selling it, it's probably a good unit.
 
http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse.cgi?category=626&product=1002402031&ecomsvr=111115478
 
- - Brian
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 17:29:25 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
If you want gauges take a look at this link --- it was posted a month or so ago and looks like a great system. I like the idea of daisychained gauges and/or a central display.
 
        http://www.defi-shop.com/
 
        Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 20:48:14 -0500
From: bob atkins <ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
That's the one!!!!!
I've spent a few hours searching - thanks for ending my misery
 
Badbob
 
on 3/17/03 8:29 PM, fastmax at fastmax@cox.net wrote:
 
> If you want gauges take a look at this link --- it was posted a month
> or so ago and looks like a great system. I like the idea of
> daisychained gauges and/or a central display.
>
>       http://www.defi-shop.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 18:03:39 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
Jim wrote:
>         http://www.defi-shop.com/
 
I just finished installing the Defi Display Unit this past weekend and, IMHO, it's the coolest thing since the AEM EMS :-)  It will display everything except boost (EGT, OP, FP, WT, OT, Vehicle Speed), two items at a time.  It has metric or standard units, and displays real-time digital values.  It will work with or in the absence of separate gauge units.  It has a warm-up feature that virtually eliminates the need for a separate water temp gauge.  It has a "special display mode" that kicks in when the vehicle speed has been 0 for more than 10 seconds - this mode scrolls through all 6 parameters and displays peak values since you last started the car or reset them.  It also has all the warning light/buzzer and record/playback features that the standalone gauges have, too.
 
Side note: This weekend, the peak hold on the vehicle speed was very useful for the slalom drills at a school I attended - the drill stations were untimed, but with the peak speed reading, I could see if I was improving.  I thought the peak speed was a little ricey, but I was pleasantly shown to be wrong :-)
 
- --Erik
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 21:10:37 -0500
From: bob atkins <ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
I could have sworn that they had a nice little digital boost gauge on the site as well (from the post a few weeks ago).  It may be the HUD one though that I am recalling - What kind of prices are these guys asking and who did you find as a source stateside?
 
Thanks
Badbob
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 18:18:55 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
Bob wrote:
> I could have sworn that they had a nice little digital boost gauge on
> the site as well (from the post a few weeks ago). It may be the HUD
> one though that I am recalling
 
Yeah, the HUD is digital.  I have that, too, and it's really nice to be able to read boost without taking your eyes off of the road.  Kind a gimmicky and not at all a "necessary" item, but since it combines a boost gauge and a turbo timer (and I wanted to get a TT anyway), it's a pretty good deal. IIRC, it was just over $200 when I bought it last year.
 
Bob wrote:
> What kind of prices are these guys asking and who did
> you find as a source stateside?
 
I got the display unit for a little under $300 and I got the gauges as part of a package deal.
 
I've dealt with:  www.gruppe-s.com (generally pleased with them, although they owe me a $15 cable and I'm having to chase that down and am a little
frustrated)  and   www.mvpmotorsports (Dusty is awesome and I'd recommend
them to anyone as I've always gotten prompt, courteous responses and fast shipping).
 
- --Erik
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 20:28:37 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
I've  been eye-balling this setup myself ever since Eric surfaced these some months ago.
 
Here is one supplier I located http://www.gruppe-s.com/Defi/defimeter.htm
 
Apexi also is providing a daisy-chain type setup too.  And they have Boost This is a supplier that has a good web show on these meters.
 
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=305&Sea
rchYN=N
 
I haven't decided yet...
Dan
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "bob atkins" <ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
<snip> What kind of prices are these guys asking and who did you find as a source stateside? <snip>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 18:53:57 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
I thought you could just get the sensors, controller and digital display but looking at the site it looks like I need the gauge also. Can you set upper and lower limits for the warning feature ???
 
Can you shed any light on that issue.
 
        Jim Berry
 
PS: I saw reference to a boost gauge !!!!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:14:01 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
> I thought you could just get the sensors,
> controller and digital display but
> looking at the site it looks like I need
> the gauge also.
 
Your thought was right - you can buy just the control unit, the display unit, and any/all of the sensors and it'll work just fine.  For some silly reason, the display unit doesn't have boost as one of its display options, so you need to have either the HUD or a separate gauge for that.
 
> Can you set upper and lower limits for the
> warning feature ???
 
Yes, you can set warning limits for any/all sensors with the display unit, even if you have no gauge units installed.  You can even set a boost warning (it'll beep at ya) with the display unit, even though it can't display the boost reading.  That's gotta be the marketing department involved in the decision not to allow the display unit to display boost...  Oh, and WT, OT, EGT, Boost, and Tach all have "high" warning limits.  FP and OP have "low" warning limits.
 
As a side note, if you have both the boost pressure and fuel pressure sensors hooked up, you can have the display unit (or the round gauge) display DIFFERENTIAL fuel pressure, which is sweet.  Just set the warning to 3.0bar and call it good.
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 21:12:18 -0600
From: "Steve" <denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject: Team3S: Service Manuals
 
Check out this link if any of you are needing a
backup of the service manuals.
Years covered 1991-1996.
 
Steve
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 21:14:02 -0600
From: "Steve" <denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Service Manuals
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6762&item=
2407846961&rd=1
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 9:12 PM
 
Check out this link if any of you are needing a
backup of the service manuals.
Years covered 1991-1996.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 22:02:42 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Service Manuals
 
> Check out this link if any of you are needing a
> backup of the service manuals.
> Years covered 1991-1996.
 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6762
> &item=
> 2407846961&rd=1
 
I see yet another person appears to have ripped off Vineet's excellent service manuals on CD.
 
The "real deal" from the guy who originally converted all the manuals to PDF are available here:
 
http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd/index2.htm
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 00:00:24 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost/Boost controller question
 
Bob,
 
As for digital vs. analog it is a personal preference and maybe more non-technical than anything.  Usually, when the gauges are being used at their maximum (drag strip, road course, street driving, etc.) you don't have time to look at a gauge and analyze what it is displaying.
 
The two-color Keyence is great, http://www.keyence.com/sensors/ap30.htm#2.  At night you don't even need to see the number but just catch the color out of the corner of your eye.  Red means over the set boost and green means under (you can set it at whatever number you like).  This is what I liked about it.
 
However, I opted for analog gauges since on a road course you get one chance to glance at all the gauges (currently only 5) while glancing next in the mirrors for other cars, then looking at the corner workers, listening to your instructor, etc.  If a quick glance of the gauges shows them all at the 3 o'clock position (on the stock gauges) then everything is normal.  You don't care really what gauge or what reading it is but when one of them is at the 1 o'clock position then you back off and evaluate the gauge (if it is oil pressure then sure, high boost makes higher pressure so that is okay but 0 psi is bad).  You get the idea.
 
I'm orienting my gauges to have 12 o'clock as the normal operating position and have done this on the two I've installed (boost and water temp) and will correct the others when I replace them (oil pressure, etc.).  But I think it is more a preference.  Also, some features on analog are different than digital (max or replay features) so it just depends on the look you want and the features you can afford.
 
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/engine/
 
- --Flash!
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: bob atkins
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 22:39
 
[snip]
 
2)  Anyone want to weigh in on opinions of digital vs. traditional round analog?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 00:36:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibachs and Sunroofs
 
Dave,
 
   AFAIK the Spyder and cars with a power sunroof have a different spring perch in the rear and a set of Ground Control coilovers from an ECS-equipped car which is the same thing as saying a manual-sunroof car will not fit a power-sunroof car.  It just won't happen.  Some people say it will but those people ended up cutting off a turn or two and I don't care for that.  If there is a solution that is different then this then I've either missed it or it hasn't been mentioned very much.
 
- --Flash!
1995-1/2 VR-4 (screwed not only because it is not able to be logged but I can't buy the simple and cheap suspension mods like Ground Control because of the blasted power sunroof)
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 20:13
 
Sorry if I'm re-hashing a stale subject but someone on eBay wants to know why my Eibach Pro-Kit is not recommended for sunroof cars.  Has this little mystery ever been solved?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 21:52:03 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
I don't see pricing on just the sensors --- what am I missing here ???
 
        Jim Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
 
> > I thought you could just get the sensors,
> > controller and digital
 
> Your thought was right - you can buy just the control unit, the
> display unit, and any/all of the sensors and it'll work just fine.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:45:32 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Eibachs and Sunroofs
 
The sunroof already squeaks in hard corners with the stock suspension and
it's even worse when you install stiffer springs. That's why it is not
recommended to use them on our cars that do not have a full roof. You can
get the GC's with stock spring rate what should not cause a difference in
the ride quality although the shocks are not working in the same range and
makes the suspension somewhat stiffer.
 
Roger G.
93'& 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
At 20:12 17.03.2003 -0500, bdtrent wrote:
>Sorry if I'm re-hashing a stale subject but someone on eBay wants to
>know why my Eibach Pro-Kit is not recommended for sunroof cars.  Has
>this little mystery ever been solved?
>
>Regards,
>DaveT/92TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 05:04:43 -0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Subject: Re: Team3S: Head gasket Qs
 
Hi Rich,
 
I have several new pressure caps and thermostats as
spares.
 
If Iowa has some sort of state emissions testing, have
your tuner stick the probe near the overflow tank
opening while it is bubbling.
 
The bubbles are most likely products of combustion.
Meaning your head gasket is leaking.  The emissions
probe will indicate hydrocarbons, CO etc.
 
Sorry to say  'been there done that'.  My overheating
started at Road Atlanta11/98.  Did it at Carolina
MotorSports Park10/99. And at Putnam5/00 I could only
do about 3 laps before the temp went wild.  I tried
driving it home by filling my gas cans with water so I
could cool it down every few miles.  I wound up
renting a U-Haul truck and trailer in Champaign IL. 
 
Although I drove it up onto the trailer, by the time I
got it back to PGH, the Stealth wouldn't start. 
 
After an extensive rebuild, my engine is still in
pieces in my garage waiting for me to put it back
together. 
 
Be of good cheer,
John
 
=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock http://www.geocities.com/jczoom_619
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 08:04:50 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: General question
 
No problem, Andy.  But with three cars (a BMW, Subaru, and a 3S), I hardly think you're an "average" guy in a 3s car.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Woll [mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 7:37 PM
 
Yeah - and for the average guy in 3s car they costs 1000 to change when my BMW costs zero and my Subaru costs 200.  Its design technology like this that makes simple things expensive. I can really feel the weight difference.
 
Yep - about a pound for the belt. and, Yep - about 2 pounds for the chain.
 
Wow, that ought to make a big difference. Sorry for the sarcasm. I just plain hate timing belts.
 
Andy
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 7:14 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: General question
 
> Several reasons, with weight being one of them.  They are quieter,
> cheaper, you don't have to lube them, they can simplify many otherwise
> complex engine designs and can be used to drive multiple components.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 08:18:23 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Head gasket Qs
 
>Sorry to say  'been there done that'.  My overheating
>started at Road Atlanta11/98.  Did it at Carolina
>MotorSports Park10/99. And at Putnam5/00 I could only
>do about 3 laps before the temp went wild.
 
My overheating started four years ago, when I still used 2nd gear a lot. When I graduated to higher gears, it went away. It came back when I started pulling high boost in higher gears. If keep the boost down to normal levels, I am usually OK. If I run 14 psi, the temp creeps up.
It is really weird that you are having problems, cuz you have a 1st gen car -- usually, it's the 2nd gen cars that overheat on track.
 
Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:29:45 -0500
From: Michael Chan <Michael.Chan@hummingbird.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel filter change advice
 
"the filter is $19.48 (plus tax if you live in Texas since that is where my orders have shipped from)"
 
Sorry to change the topic but HOLY COW, I just called Dodge in Toronto
(Canada) and they're charging $145.00 for this part.  I'd better start ordering parts from the States.
 
Mike
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:24:18 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
 
I'm not sure you should get blowout at stock boost.  We never saw it until we increased boost to 14.7 on two of our VR4's.  You may have another problem, like dirty injectors, fouled spark plugs, or failing ignition coils.
 
How old are the plugs?  They tend to gap out with age.  I'd pull the front three and measure the gap to get an idea of their condition.
 
Chuck Willis
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox [mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 3:41 PM
 
That is what I thought. How come all the reference materials for our cars list the stock gap at .044?
 
I need to regap as I am getting spark blowout under WOT between 4500 and 5000rpm with stock boost.
 
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
 
on 3/17/03 14:14, Willis, Charles E. at cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org
scribbled:
 
> 0.034 much better for 15 psi boost=no spark blowout
> 0.044 seems way too wide.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 08:38:24 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
 
They were brand new Bosch plugs that I installed last year along with new ignition wires. Everything else runs just fine and the only time I have noticed it was when I was romping on it really hard. It does seem to be repeatable and only in that rpm range.
 
I intend to pull the plugs this summer and inspect them. I'll probably replace with something other than Bosch. I do no that they were originally gapped at .044, which seemed awfully wide IMOHO. I suppose I could reinstall the old ignition wires to see if the new ones are the cause. Fuel mileage is nice though as I was getting 28 and 29mpg on a 6,000 mile road trip back in January.
 
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
 
on 3/18/03 8:24, Willis, Charles E. at cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org
scribbled:
 
> I'm not sure you should get blowout at stock boost.  We never saw it
> until we increased boost to 14.7 on two of our VR4's.  You may have
> another problem, like dirty injectors, fouled spark plugs, or failing
> ignition coils.
>
> How old are the plugs?  They tend to gap out with age.  I'd pull the
> front three and measure the gap to get an idea of their condition.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:43:45 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
 
We generally get mileage in the twenties on the road, but don't think I've seen 28 or 29 mpg - sounds a bit lean to me.
 
I presently have some problems in the 2000-3000 rpm range on my '93VR4.  Everything is wonderful above 3000rpm.  I am going to pull the front plugs this evening for a look-see.  I am also suspicious of the old ignition coils.  A lot of people have replaced these because they seem to age also.
 
Chuck Willis
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox [mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 9:38 AM
 
They were brand new Bosch plugs that I installed last year along with new ignition wires. Everything else runs just fine and the only time I have noticed it was when I was romping on it really hard. It does seem to be repeatable and only in that rpm range.
 
I intend to pull the plugs this summer and inspect them. I'll probably replace with something other than Bosch. I do no that they were originally gapped at .044, which seemed awfully wide IMOHO. I suppose I could reinstall the old ignition wires to see if the new ones are the cause. Fuel mileage is nice though as I was getting 28 and 29mpg on a 6,000 mile road trip back in January.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 07:58:45 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S: Cleaning K&N FIPK filter
 
I put on the K&N FIPK filter about a year ago. I have accumulated about
4000 miles since then and have yet to clean and recharge the filter. I'm
wondering what kind of schedule others use for cleaning. The Team3S FAQ
page seems to imply that they work better as they accumulate some dirt. I'm
thinking that may be true for filtering smaller and smaller particles.
However, it would seem to let less air pass. Before I jump in and clean
mine I thought I solicit some advice from other K&N FIPK users.
 
Thanks.
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:32:24 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cleaning K&N FIPK filter
 
On the three VR4's we have that have high flow intake filters, two of which are K&N products, for the last 5 years we have generally cleaned and recharged the filters every time we change the engine oil.  That probably works out to every 3000 miles for road use. I change oil more frequently when the car is being used for driving on the track.  I <ALWAYS> get beat up by others on the list on the frequency of oil changes, but I found no one willing to pay the shipping to get all that "clean oil" I am throwing away with every oil change.
 
I think you can determine if the K&N filter needs cleaning by visual inspection.  Take off the filter and hold it up to the light. If you can see daylight through the filter, it needs more oil - you may as well clean it.  If you can see a lot of block air passages - black instead of translucent pink - clean it.
 
Chuck Willis
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard [mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 9:59 AM
 
I put on the K&N FIPK filter about a year ago. I have accumulated about
4000 miles since then and have yet to clean and recharge the filter. I'm
wondering what kind of schedule others use for cleaning. The Team3S FAQ
page seems to imply that they work better as they accumulate some dirt. I'm
thinking that may be true for filtering smaller and smaller particles.
However, it would seem to let less air pass. Before I jump in and clean
mine I thought I solicit some advice from other K&N FIPK users.
 
Thanks.
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:24:24 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibachs and Sunroofs
 
Roger G. wrote:
> The sunroof already squeaks in hard corners with the stock
> suspension and it's even worse when you install stiffer
> springs. That's why it is not recommended to use them on
> our cars that do not have a full roof.
 
To add in my 2hp here:  that's not been my experience...  I've taken both of my VR-4s (glass, removable roofs) to autocross and track events and never once heard a squeak from the sunroof.  Even on crappy western-WA roads, it doesn't squeak.  That goes for both with completely stock suspension and with Saner F&R sway bars and TEC F&R strut tower braces.  Also tried it with no rear strut brace, but all the other bars/braces installed.  No squeaks. Ever.
 
Now, with the sunroof OPEN (up), the rear is only supported in the middle by the lifting mechanism and then I've heard a rattle or two every once in a while on rough roads, but nothing terrible.  Is that what you were referring to?  Or did you mean with the roof closed?
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:29:00 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
 
Jim wrote:
> I don't see pricing on just the sensors
> --- what am I missing here ???
 
You gotta ask for the prices of the sensors separately - they're generally special-order.  IIRC, I was quoted a little under $700 for the control unit and all the sensors, shipped.
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 15:40:55 -0800
From: "Edward Vinces" <ed@compros.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cleaning K&N FIPK filter
 
I am glad you are discussing this issue because I have never been sure how to properly clean mine; I could not find any tips on this issue on the 3S pages.
 
Is there a description someplace on how to do it properly, and specially how to oil the K&N' filters? Thank you, Ed 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:29:57 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cleaning K&N FIPK filter
 
There are very complete instructions included with each filter recharge kit.
 
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:50:59 -0500
From: "Arthurs Family" <arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject: Team3S: Long Block Engine
 
Greetings,
 
The engine knock I asked you folks about a few weeks ago is now diagnosed as rod bearing(s).  With spring about to start in 4 days, I don't want to be
rebuilding this engine all summer.   Does anyone have a suggestion where to
go for a QUALITY rebuilt LONG block for a '92  Twin Turbo in the northeast?
 
Thank you for any & all suggestions.
 
Jon Arthurs
Jamestown,  NY
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #107
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