Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, March 17
2003 Volume 02 : Number 106
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 18:14 -0500
From: "Dennis R. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
Have been running fine lately on my conservative mods: Borla, K&N, ATR
w/high flow cat, BOV. I have a Blitz DSBC set at a ratio of 45% &
gain of
12. Would like to hear from those more experienced than I if
this gives me
at least factory boost on my '97(still need to get a boost
gauge). Any
examples of others running this controller?
Thanks.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Just buy a boost gauge, they are like $50 max... It's cheaper than a
new motor...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 21:49:40 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: Boost/Boost controller question
I have the sbc-id (I think the settings work the same). On warm
days
(60+) a setting of ratio 56 gain 12 puts me right under 15 psi
(14.7-14.9). On colder days that is _way_ too much - when it gets to 30 or
below, I run a ratio of 48 and that is usually enough for the same boost levels.
So I'd say you're running a little over stock. Stock equivalent is ratio 35 gain
10-12
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 22:39:16 -0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
On the line of this subject - I lost the link and can't remember source
name for the small digital boost gauge posted here not to long ago. I was
not successful in an archive search - so . . .
1) Could someone please REPOST the source for the digital boost gauge
- It looked the perfect size for Steering column mount with no obstruction of
other instrumentation?
2) Anyone want to weigh in on opinions of digital vs. traditional
round analog?
Thanks
Badbob
> I have the sbc-id (I think the settings work the same). On warm
days
> (60+) a setting of ratio 56 gain 12 puts me right under 15
psi
> (14.7-14.9). On colder days that is _way_ too much - when it gets to
> 30 or below, I run a ratio of 48 and that is usually enough for the
> same boost levels. So I'd say you're running a little over stock.
> Stock equivalent is ratio 35 gain 10-12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 23:20:52 EST
From:
GMightymoose@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Just got my tranny rebuilt
Hey guys I just got my 92 VR4's tranny rebuilt, it shifts great, except for
3rd gear-wants to grind a little. I believe my problem is a "friction"
issue. I used the right grade tranny fluid, but I was wondering if there
is some sort of additive I could add to my transmission, that would help me out
a little. Thanks in advance
James G
99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 22:59:16 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
I can't comment specifically about the link source you are looking for.
However, below are a couple digital gauge suppliers that might be of
interest.
Dan
97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 23:06:54 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Boost/Boost controller question
Personally, I love my a-pillar mounted gauges in my Talon... out of the
way, easy to see, etc... It's only $25 extra for the pod too
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 00:10:29 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel Fitment Question
Fondmetal Type 9A
Silver powder coat with a glossy
finish
*****************
*17X9 5-114.3 25S*
*****************
Will it fit on my vr4 without shaving my calipers or rubbing anything etc.?
Or is 25mm too big of an offset? Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and
park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 06:38:22 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheel Fitment Question
They will stick out of the fenderwell, but they will probably fit over the
caliper...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald Ashby
Sent: Monday, March
17, 2003 1:10 AM
Fondmetal Type 9A
Silver powder coat with a glossy
finish
*****************
*17X9 5-114.3 25S*
*****************
Will it fit on my vr4 without shaving my calipers or rubbing anything etc.?
Or is 25mm too big of an offset? Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and
park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 10:14:58 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: General question
Several reasons, with weight being one of them. They are quieter,
cheaper, you don't have to lube them, they can simplify many otherwise complex
engine designs and can be used to drive multiple components.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Spainhour
Sent: Saturday,
March 15, 2003 2:06 PM
Hello All,
Does anyone know why Mitsubishi used a
standard belt instead of a metal chain type timing belt? It would seem that
since the belt is so important to engine life, they would have used one that you
would not have to replace or at least not as often.
Joseph
93 VR-4
------------------------------
April 2003 Turbo magazine has a nice review of Boost Controllers including
some EBC's and MBCs.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald Ashby
[mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 2:37 AM
My friend with a 2g Talon has a avc-r, he says it was the biggest waste of
money ever spent, we unplugged it and put in my $5 bleeder valve, after about 15
minutes we had it set to the same boost, it took half an hour to set on the
avc-r. I've never put a EBC on my car, always ran with my MBC, and according to
my boost gauge it runs pretty solid boost, fairly easy to change to, pop hood,
unscrew/screw in/out hop back in drive off. Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 11:23:35 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: General question
Actually a timing belt was a sound design choice, leaving the motor as
an
interference design was NOT... Damn shoemaker
engineering
I mean how hard would it have been to raise the focking deck height
2MM???????
Russ "had a bad weekend with the toy" F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 11:33:29 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valve to Piston clearance?
While I am thinking about it (see thread below) does anyone know if the
adjustable lifters sold by DR and 3SX are solid core or if they have oiling
ports built into them like the stockers?
Reason I ask over this weekend I discovered even with the large valve
relief's in my pistons, if my belt skips more than 3 teeth I am
guaranteed
piston to valve contact.......
@#$%^&*!!!!!!!!!!!!
Of note I was forced to deck my heads 1MM due to my incompetence in
removing them and managed to nick the head to block mating surface.....
Also what kind of penalty am I going to be paying by reducing valve
lift?
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent: Monday,
March 17, 2003 11:24 AM
Actually a timing belt was a sound design choice, leaving the motor as
an
interference design was NOT... Damn shoemaker
engineering
I mean how hard would it have been to raise the focking deck height
2MM???????
Russ "had a bad weekend with the toy" F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 08:40:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Popping noise while turning
Whenever I turn to the left and bring the wheel back it seems to catch at a
certain point. It seems that the whole spring assembly is catching at the top.
Would this be the upper strut mount? Does it even have one ('91 Vr-4, Front
Left)? It's not the CV shaft or the tie rod end. What else could it be?
Thanks, Casey
------------------------------
very likely. The upper strut mount has a bearing and is prone to
wearing out. This is nicely described at Jeff Lucius site concerning GC
installation. If I was going to replace one, I would go ahead and replace
the other, too.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 16:53:52 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Valve to Piston clearance?
> Of note I was forced to deck my heads 1MM due
> to my
incompetence in removing them and
> managed to nick the head to block
mating
> surface.....
Ouch.
> Also what kind of penalty am I going to be
> paying by reducing
valve lift?
You aren't reducing valve lift by shaving down the head. You are
making it
more likely for the pistons to contact the valves if something
goes wrong with
the timing, since they will now be 1mm lower in the chamber
if you shave 1mm
off the head. The static compression ratio will also
be bumped up as there
will be less volume in the chamber at TDC.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 11:57:41 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valve to Piston clearance?
Matt I am aware decking the heads dropped the valves deeper into the
cylinder I was more curious if getting adjustable lifters and reducing the lift
of the oversize valves by 1MM would significantly hamper the cars
performance? Particularly over 5K....
Your thoughts since you have already dug around the insides???????
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
1. I saw a metal head gasket today up at the speed shop. Trent (my tuner)
sez he found it in a old crappy motor, and is going to look for a source.
Anybody know where we can buy metal head gaskets for a 3000GT VR4? Is this
a good thing or a bad thing for our motors?
2. I have coolant pumping out of the overflow tank. I've seen the coolant
light on every now and again this winter, but the overflow tank was always full,
so I figgered it musta been the WW tank icon. Guess not. For the first time,
though, I saw coolant on the floor this morning.
Trent my tuner says it might be too low a pressure on the radiator cap
(which I'll change today) causing it to lose fluid or -- gasp!! -- it might be a
head gasket. Shudder. There's no indication of a water pump leak. No steam out
the exhaust.
We put a pressure gauge on the rad, pumped it up, and it is slowly leaking.
It could be leaking down because of the crappy fitting at the gauge or it could
be leaking through the head gasket. In any case, it leaks down very
slowly.
Trent says the only way to know for sure is to do a compression test. Izzat
right?
As you may or may not recall, I have always had severe overheating problems
on track, and pegged the temp gauge on a number of occasions. I fear the
chickens may have come home to roost.
3. Assuming we have to replace head gaskets, what else should be do
whilst in there?
New spark plug wires?
I have a set of 560 injectors --
can I put them in without an AFC? Anything else? If we have to go in, might as
well do other stuff.
The motor (94 VR4) has 80,000 miles.
Rich/slow old poop/steaming hot
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 09:43:45 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
Technically you've already tried the Pennzoil. They are OEM'd Fram
filters (Painted yellow of course). Fram happens to be the largest piece
of junk ever. I wouldn't even touch the box of a Fram unless I was trying
to destroy the car. I'm exaggerating but you get the point, Junk.
Run away.
I Can't say much about Bosch Platinum plugs in our cars. In general I
found (while working in the industry that it was hit or miss with the Bosch
Platinum's. Some cars loved them others absolutely hated the plugs and
refused to perform until they were changed out. I've never run them in our
cars so I can't say how they'd react on a 3S.
- -James
95 Green VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
[mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:25 PM
So I've tried the following oil filters on my 95 VR-4
Fram 3593 ($3.79)
Fram TG3593A Tough Guard ($5.79)
Fram X2 version of
size 3593 ($11.99)
K&N HP-1004 ($10.99)
Amsoil (around $8.00)
Mitsu
stock ($5.49)
Honda stock (around $6.50) my wife's 98 Accord V6 uses the same
filters as the 3000GT!
I have seen the Pennzoil but haven't tried it. I refuse to use the Fram
that is impregnated with Teflon for the obvious reasons...
Are there any that I have missed or should try? I have grown partial to the
K&N simply because of its 1" socket on the end that makes removal a snap
with a socket instead of using a filter wrench. But I kinda like the price of
the Mitsu...
On another note, why do I see spark plug gap listed as .44 for our cars?
That seems much wider than most people are running. Anyone running that wide a
gap?
Anyone out there happy with Bosch platinum plugs?
Yet another note: Will running a test pipe in place of your main cat
increase fuel mileage?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Yikes!
You compression ratio is now up from 8 : 1 to 8.94 : 1, which means that
you will not be able to run high boost.
Your valve timing is now retarded by about 2 degrees, which means that your
valves are more likely to contact the pistons.
You are screwed, but there is hope. Get low-compression pistons. Check to
make sure there is adequate clearance.
You could get adjustable cam gears. You need only two just for the intake
(I think). You can save half the price of the full set.
Solid lifters will do nothing. They could be adjusted, but that does not
mean that they could be adjusted any way you want. They must be adjusted to
maintain the specified gap between the rockers and the valve stems, so they are
not really adjustable. IMHO they are not worth buying unless you are running
aggressive lift cams, which bleed down the stock lifters as they operate.
If you do all that your engine will be better that before you, barbarian,
messed up your heads! ;-)
Philip
- -----------------------------------------
Of note I was forced to deck my heads 1MM due to my incompetence in
removing them and managed to nick the head to block mating surface.....
Also what kind of penalty am I going to be paying by reducing valve
lift?
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 17:54:26 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Valve to Piston clearance?
> Matt I am aware decking the heads dropped
> the valves deeper
into the cylinder I was
> more curious if getting adjustable
lifters
> and reducing the lift of the oversize valves
> by 1MM
would significantly hamper the cars
> performance? Particularly over
5K....
Adjustable lifters won't really let you reduce the valve lift. You'd
need to
grind down your cams to modify lift. If you loosen the
lifters, they
won't be in spec and will wear faster and clatter like
crazy. They are really
only adjustable to set the lifter to rocker
clearance to spec.
I guess I'm not seeing the point of reducing lift at the sacrifice of
flow.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 12:58:25 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valve to Piston clearance?
Thanks Phil :p but I am not pulling my motor apart AGAIN ( I am
running wiseco's .039 overbore {long saga on why I am running those instead
of
J.E.'s})
Oh I can run high boost it is called ELF 124 race gas =) =) =)
Although I called the guy that did my head work and it was actually a
little more than 1/4 MM he decked them (hey I am retarded what do you
want)
And he said that I am banned from using tools in his presence =(
Any rate so I am using stock 93 VR-4 intake cams and if I can find them I
am going to swap in stock SL exhaust cams.
As soon as my tax return gets deposited I am ordering UR cam gears, then it
is just getting the rest of the pennies together for the remaining
stuff......
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Rich,
Your gasket is good.
Your coolant cap is bad. It could also be the seat where that cap seals.
Inspect the seat for pitting and corrosion and get a new coolant cap.
To test the cap, pump up the cooling system through the radiator drain
plug. It should hold 0.9 atm or 0.9 bar.
FYI, The best head gasket for a stock motor is a stock gasket.
Philip
- ----------------------------------------------------------
1. I saw a metal head gasket today up at the speed shop. Trent (my tuner)
sez he found it in a old crappy motor, and is going to look for a source.
Anybody know where we can buy metal head gaskets for a 3000GT VR4? Is this
a good thing or a bad thing for our motors?
2. I have coolant pumping out of the overflow tank. I've seen the coolant
light on every now and again this winter, but the overflow tank was always full,
so I figgered it musta been the WW tank icon. Guess not. For the first time,
though, I saw coolant on the floor this morning.
Trent my tuner says it might be too low a pressure on the radiator cap
(which I'll change today) causing it to lose fluid or -- gasp!! -- it might be a
head gasket. Shudder. There's no indication of a water pump leak. No steam out
the exhaust.
We put a pressure gauge on the rad, pumped it up, and it is slowly leaking.
It could be leaking down because of the crappy fitting at the gauge or it could
be leaking through the head gasket. In any case, it leaks down very
slowly.
Trent says the only way to know for sure is to do a compression test. Izzat
right?
As you may or may not recall, I have always had severe overheating problems
on track, and pegged the temp gauge on a number of occasions. I fear the
chickens may have come home to roost.
3. Assuming we have to replace head gaskets, what else should be do
whilst in there? New spark plug wires? I have a set of 560 injectors -- can I
put them in without an AFC? Anything else? If we have to go in, might as well do
other stuff. The motor (94 VR4) has 80,000 miles.
Rich/slow old poop/steaming hot
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 13:01:39 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valve to Piston clearance?
See I didn't understand that changing lift is more complicated than just
changing lifters now I do....
Guess I am up that creak with out a paddle and better just keep an eye on
the timing belt and the rest of that mess.....
Ya know this car is going to drive me back to the bottle if work
doesn't...
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 12:54 PM
> Matt I am aware decking the heads dropped
> the valves deeper
into the cylinder I was
> more curious if getting adjustable
lifters
> and reducing the lift of the oversize valves
> by 1MM
would significantly hamper the cars
> performance? Particularly over
5K....
Adjustable lifters won't really let you reduce the valve lift. You'd
need to
grind down your cams to modify lift. If you loosen the
lifters, they
won't be in spec and will wear faster and clatter like
crazy. They are really
only adjustable to set the lifter to rocker
clearance to spec.
I guess I'm not seeing the point of reducing lift at the sacrifice of
flow.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 18:02:50 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Head gasket Qs
> Anybody know where we can buy metal head
> gaskets for a 3000GT
VR4? Is this a
> good thing or a bad thing for our motors?
The stock gaskets are metallic.
> 3. Assuming we have to replace head gaskets,
> what else
should be do whilst in there?
> New spark plug wires?
Great time to do it, if you need 'em. Generally replace them every
60,000
miles or so for good measure.
> I have a set of 560 injectors -- can I
> put them in without an
AFC?
Nope, need fuel control for most anything over stock size.
> Anything else? If we have to go in,
> might as well do other
stuff. The motor
> (94 VR4) has 80,000 miles.
Water pump, if it wasn't done at the 60,000 mile maintenance. Could
also
install adjustable cam sprockets. If you get any oil or
antifreeze on any of
the belts, replace those too.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Geees, I was going to bash you and your builder for removing 1 mm from the
heads, but I decided not to make you feel bad since the damage was already done.
Those 0.25 mm is nothing to worry about. OEM's often rework heads that they
scratch right at the plant and they stay within the print specs. But check your
valve clearance anyway. If it is a little too small then you could always Dremel
the pistons a little.
Your gears are more likely to cause valve damage than these 0.25 mm. You
need to test your valve clearance with those gears set at different angles, so
that you know your limits.
Philip
Thanks Phil :p but I am not pulling my motor apart AGAIN ( I
am running wiseco's .039 overbore {long saga on why I am running those
instead of
J.E.'s})
Oh I can run high boost it is called ELF 124 race gas =) =) =)
Although I called the guy that did my head work and it was actually a
little more than 1/4 MM he decked them (hey I am retarded what do you
want)
And he said that I am banned from using tools in his presence =(
Any rate so I am using stock 93 VR-4 intake cams and if I can find them I
am going to swap in stock SL exhaust cams.
As soon as my tax return gets deposited I am ordering UR cam gears, then it
is just getting the rest of the pennies together for the remaining
stuff......
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 13:25:58 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valve to Piston clearance?
Once I have my cam gears in house I will set the cams the way they are
going to run (+1 intake -3 exhaust)
Actually I am doing most of the assembly myself, I just handed him my stock
heads with new valves, springs, retainers, and retainer clips. He warned
me about the nicks but through his thick polish accent I thought he said 1MM
when I picked them up.... When I called him a little while ago one of his
guys clarified that it was actually 1/4MM (he said maybe a tiny bit more)
And no I did not do the short block assembly (I suck at plastigauging) a
local shop did the work for me and I explained to them very clearly about
maintaining damn tight tolerances in the bottom end to reduce the likelihood of
spun bearings. I also requested they use a torque plate (but I am not sure
if they did or not)
We shall see if I break this little bish or not after the NG and YES it
looks like I will be there barring any issues/surprises between now and
06/01
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 1:11 PM
Geees, I was going to bash you and your builder for removing 1 mm from the
heads, but I decided not to make you feel bad since the damage was already done.
Those 0.25 mm is nothing to worry about. OEM's often rework heads that they
scratch right at the plant and they stay within the print specs. But check your
valve clearance anyway. If it is a little too small then you could always Dremel
the pistons a little.
Your gears are more likely to cause valve damage than these 0.25 mm. You
need to test your valve clearance with those gears set at different angles, so
that you know your limits.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 12:33:43 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: General question
OK, so they should have made it non-interfering with gear driven cams - if
for nothing else, the sweet sound...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> Actually a timing belt was a sound design choice, leaving the motor as
an
> interference design was NOT... Damn shoemaker
engineering
>
> I mean how hard would it have been to raise the
focking deck height
> 2MM???????
------------------------------
>Your gasket is good.
Lordy, I hope so.
>Your coolant cap is bad. It could also be the seat where that
cap
>seals. Inspect the seat for pitting and corrosion and get a new
coolant
>cap.
I did that today. I got a 16 psi unit. The one that was on there was a new
one I put on last year.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 13:50:09 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
That's kinda what I thought. I have had several Fram (not on my VR-4 but
on
others) crush when trying to remove them, creating a real problem for
removal.
How about the .044 gap? Any thought on that? Too wide?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> Technically you've already tried the Pennzoil. They are OEM'd
Fram
> filters (Painted yellow of course). Fram happens to be the
largest
> piece of junk ever. I wouldn't even touch the box of a
Fram unless I
> was trying to destroy the car. I'm exaggerating but
you get the
> point, Junk. Run away.
>
> I Can't say
much about Bosch Platinum plugs in our cars. In general I
> found
(while working in the industry that it was hit or miss with the
> Bosch
Platinum's. Some cars loved them others absolutely hated the
>
plugs and refused to perform until they were changed out. I've never
> run them in our cars so I can't say how they'd react on a 3S.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 15:52:48 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Head gasket Qs
Hey Rich when you change your oil again check and see if their is any
coolant in it also check you cooling system (when cold obviously) at the
radiator drain plug and look to see if it has any oil in it.
When a head gasket cracks it is not always a case of billowing clouds of
white smoke out of the tail pipes. My daily beaters (same car different
years, same damn engine and automatic) have done me both the cloud smoke and
coolant in the oil system.....
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 15:55:24 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
Paul for a stock car that gap is fine, if you are going to be modding the
car I would recommend gapping down to .030-.034 (what ever gap that doesn't
produce spark blowout at higher than stock boost pressures)
As for oil filters I have no idea I just use the factory Mitsu
filter....
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
[mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 3:50 PM
That's kinda what I thought. I have had several Fram (not on my VR-4 but
on
others) crush when trying to remove them, creating a real problem for
removal.
How about the .044 gap? Any thought on that? Too wide?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
At 03:52 PM 3/17/03 -0500, Furman, Russell wrote:
>Hey Rich when you
change your oil again check and see if their is any
>coolant in it
I know how to do that...
also check you cooling system (when cold obviously) at the
>radiator
drain plug and look to see if it has any oil in it.
...but how do you see oil in the coolant? Let it form a pool, and look for
the rainbow?
>When a head gasket cracks it is not always a case of billowing
clouds
>of white smoke out of the tail pipes. My daily beaters (same
car
>different years, same damn engine and automatic) have done me both
the
>cloud smoke and coolant in the oil system.....
I have less trouble with my winter rat/beater Talon TSi AWD turbo than with
the VR4, and I run the Talon a whole lot harder. Just yesterday I had it
airborne over some RR tracks, and up to 100 mph on gravel.
Maybe I'm trying to race the wrong car. Say, didn't we have a discussion
about this a few months ago? Maybe all those guys were right after
all.
>
Rich
94 VR4
92 Talon AWD turbo
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 16:06:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Philip V Glazatov
<
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Head gasket Qs
Hmm. That is a good thing to check. I did not think of this one
<smacking himself on the head>.
I had a similar issue when I installed a low-pressure cap. That cap is
recommended when you install the NPG+ coolant that I have. The NPG guys actually
recommend a "zero-pressure" cap. But a zero-pressure cap or a cap without a
rubber seal seeps all the coolant through into the overflow reservoir. So, I had
to install the seal back and use a lighter cap spring instead. It now holds only
about 4-5 psi.
While experiencing all these problems I also became suspicious that I had a
leaky head gasket. But after I fixed the cap I think the problems stopped. I
guess the key would be to remove the cap after the car was sitting overnight and
see the radiator still filled completely. If there is lots of air in the
engine/radiator and the cap is new, then I would suspect a leaky head
gasket.
Philip
On Mon, 17 Mar 2003,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> >--Key can be if you see BUBBLES coming out of overflow; but
that
> >might only happen at high boost. If you have water
overflowing the
> >tank, AND have to add water to the RADIATOR CAP by
the manifold like
> >it is low in the engine, air may well have forced
extra water out
> >into overflow; and that same air disallows the
vacuum that is
> >supposed to suck the fluid back INTO the motor, when
it cools down
> >after shut off.
>
> This sounds like when
I overheated it last year, and it took hours to
> fill the motor up again
with water. WHAT is the secret to filling the
> motor and radiator with
water and getting rid of the air bubble? Turn
> it upside down?
Belch it over yer shoulder?
>
> Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 16:10:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Philip V Glazatov
<
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Head gasket Qs
On Mon, 17 Mar 2003,
merritt@cedar-rap> WHAT is the secret
to filling the motor and radiator with water and
> getting rid of the air
bubble? Turn it upside down? Belch it over yer
> shoulder?
You can keep filling the radiator while the car is running. This is how I
do it. Opening a hot radiator is dangerous, but topping it off is safe.
Philip
------------------------------
>> WHAT is the secret to filling the motor and radiator with water
and
>> getting rid of the air bubble?
>
>You can keep
filling the radiator while the car is running. This is how
>I do it.
But I did that, and it took HOURS. It said it was full -- overflowing and
all -- but five minutes later, it took more. I kept doing that, over and over,
until it finally had enough. There's gotta be a better way.
Rich
------------------------------
Rich,
I got a Prestone kit from O'Reilly's several years ago that included a
plastic reservoir jug and some plastic tubing with a hose clamp. You
disconnect the top radiator hose from the radiator and clamp the tubing on that
hose and feed it into the reservoir jug. You let the car run until it reaches
operating temperature and the thermostat opens (water starts flowing through the
top radiator hose). Then you add water into the radiator until the fluid
coming out is clear. Then you add 1 gallon of antifreeze to the radiator
and then turn the engine off. Reconnect the top hose and top off with
water. Fill the overflow tank to the full line. You are done.
You can do this without the nifty tubing and reservoir, it's just a little
messy and not real enviro-friendly (keep cats away from the stream).
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 14:40:40 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
That is what I thought. How come all the reference materials for our cars
list the stock gap at .044?
I need to regap as I am getting spark blowout under WOT between 4500 and
5000rpm with stock boost.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> 0.034 much better for 15 psi boost=no spark blowout
> 0.044
seems way too wide.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 16:36:54 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: General question
Yeah - and for the average guy in 3s car they costs 1000 to change when my
BMW costs zero and my Subaru costs 200. Its design technology like this
that makes simple things expensive. I can really feel the weight difference. Yep
- about a pound for the belt. and, Yep - about 2 pounds for the chain. Wow, that
ought to make a big difference. Sorry for the sarcasm. I just plain hate timing
belts.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Sent:
Monday, March 17, 2003 7:14 AM
> Several reasons, with weight being one of them. They are
quieter,
> cheaper, you don't have to lube them, they can simplify many
otherwise
> complex engine designs and can be used to drive multiple
components.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#106
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