Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, March 16
2003 Volume 02 : Number 105
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I am looking to change my fuel filter soon and was wondering if there is a
better alternative than the stock type filter or is that one adequate ?
I have changed the filter on the base model that I used to have, so I know
the procedure.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 13:38:21 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: fuel filter change advice
Anthony
I can't comment if there might be a 'better' fuel filter out
there. I do a my share of web surfing and have not seen one - but that
could be because I was not looking specifically for one.
I just replaced mine yesterday with the stock unit (part # MB658136).
My only comment is this... the stock unit inlet/exit is the size of the fuel
line and sure doesn't appear flow restrictive in any way. Routine
maintenance is challenging enough without going through extra troubles to
reengineer the mounting location and fuel line connections. Once you get
through the token "skin loss" required to break the fuel line connections free,
the stock unit slides right in - no fuss - no muss.
Dan
97 VR4
I am looking to change my fuel filter soon and was wondering if there is a
better alternative than the stock type filter or is that one adequate ?
I have changed the filter on the base model that I used to have, so I know
the procedure.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 15:00:39 -0500
From: Aamer Abbas <
aamer@aamerabbas.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Urgent tire info request
Just got my AVS ES100's (245/50/16) two days ago and they're being mounted
as I write this :-)
I had Kumho Ecsta Supra's on before this so I'm interested in seeing if
these Yoko's are worth the extra few bucks. Got them for around $90 a piece on
Tirerack.com (plus shipping).
I'll try to remember and post my thoughts on them as well.
- --
Aamer Abbas
1994 3000GT (DOHC/Naturally Aspirated)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 15:05:52 -0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: General question
Hello All,
Does anyone know why Mitsubishi used a
standard belt instead of a metal chain type timing belt? It would seem that
since the belt is so important to engine life, they would have used one that you
would not have to replace or at least not as often.
Joseph
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 13:04:37 -0800
From: "Chris Winkley & Teri
Beaman" <
cwinkley@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic Performance Modifications
Leo...
Check the Team3S archives, there have been dozens of threads about the best
mods route(s). The "standard" approach of an intake and exhaust upgrade has been
proven (on a dyno) to yield virtually no gain (less than 5 hp). The most
effective mod is a boost controller. It can also, however, be the most risky if
you can't resist cranking it up higher and higher. Once you go past 15 psi you
need to upgrade the fuel delivery system, turbos, etc.
FWIW...you can see my current list of mods below. I have experimented quite
a bit over the last six years to arrive at this combination.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White Mitsubishi VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and
polished throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima red top battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six
puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads,
SS brake lines, Eibach 1" dropped progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3
Pilots).
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Leo J. Fabilli" <
fabilli@bignet.net>
Sent: Thursday,
March 13, 2003 1:52 AM
I am considering making some basic mods to my car during and after the 60k
maintenance. Nothing radical. Thinking of new K & N air box and filter
system; exhaust system modification; and whatever useful suggestions you folks
may have. The car is a 93 Stealth TT. It has run great from day 1 and seems to
run as well as ever. I don't want modifications that alter the driveability and
reliability of the car, just enhancements to the beautiful machine it already
is.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 13:29:16 -0800
From: "Chris Winkley & Teri
Beaman" <
cwinkley@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1/4 mile preparation Q
Mike...
30 psi is fine if you're trying to minimize risk to your drivetrain during
the launch. Personally, I've dropped my tire pressure as low as 15 psi. I never,
repeat, never use the water pits for a pre-staging burnout. While they are fun,
they put more strain on the drivetrain and you will not heat up street tires to
a point where they are more sticky than you can achieve by lowering the
pressure. What's worse, unless you have bald street tires, there will be water
in the tread grooves. When you pull up to the tree this water will run down and
you'll find yourself in another (small but still
there) pool of water leading
to a burnout instead of a launch.
As for the launch technique, there's a couple of camps. Check the archives,
there's step by step instructions of at least three variations. I'm still a fan
of the 6K sidestep approach and have had great launches with the stock clutch
lasting over 40K miles and at least 30 runs down the 1/4 mile. Now I have a
better clutch and wonder when I will break some piece of the drivetrain.
Remember the saying "if you can't do the time, don't do the crime"? Well, the
same applies to drag or open track racing. If this is your daily driver and you
can't afford to break and replace parts, think twice (or three times) about
running your car hard. I've been drag racing for over 25 years and I've broken
every car I've owned at one time or another. The weakest link in the drivetrain
determines what will go first.
With a SL and an automatic transmission you're much less likely to break
anything as you're not likely to get up in the 350+ hp range where engine temps
become your worst enemy. Regardless, you can still enjoy the thrill!!!
Looking forward...Chris
Today I ran my first 1/4 mile in my 3000GT. It was a blast. The car,
however, didn't perform the way I had hoped.
What tire pressure would be correct for a race like this. I had it set to
30 for all 4 tires. My friends suggested it should go lower, and that I
should burn out a bit to warm the tires up. I kept it at 30 psi despite what
they said, and chose to skip the burn out because I remember my old auto shop
teacher saying the compound in street tires does not warm up, it just scrubs
off. Tire size is 245/45 ZR-17. I had good reaction times for the 3 runs I
had, but the car was slow off the line.
Thanx
Mike
97 SL auto
K&N FIPK
D&N Intake Pipe
Other stuff. .
.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 18:43:56 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Where to sell my VR4??
Hey guys,
I am selling my VR4. Is there a place
in the 3000GT club web page that we can post our cars for sale?
I want to sell to a 3000GT or Stealth enthusiast non some kid who's not
going to appreciate the car.
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 18:03:33 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: General question
Weight...
It would seem that a lightweight belt can do the same job as a heavy chain,
so long as it's not asked to do it for quite as long of a time... This makes up
differences in gas mileage, performance, etc.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Spainhour
Sent: Saturday,
March 15, 2003 2:06 PM
Hello All,
Does anyone know why Mitsubishi used a
standard belt instead of a metal chain type timing belt? It would seem that
since the belt is so important to engine life, they would have used one that you
would not have to replace or at least not as often.
Joseph
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 18:05:55 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: fuel filter change advice
As a note, you all might think this is interesting, although it applies
mainly to DSM's, these cars are so very similar, it would translate almost
directly to a 3000...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan Hyde
Sent: Saturday, March 15,
2003 1:38 PM
Anthony
I can't comment if there might be a 'better' fuel filter out
there. I do a my share of web surfing and have not seen one - but that
could be because I was not looking specifically for one.
I just replaced mine yesterday with the stock unit (part # MB658136). My
only comment is this... the stock unit inlet/exit is the size of the fuel line
and sure doesn't appear flow restrictive in any way. Routine maintenance
is challenging enough without going through extra troubles to reengineer the
mounting location and fuel line connections. Once you get through the
token "skin loss" required to break the fuel line connections free, the stock
unit slides right in - no fuss - no muss.
Dan
97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 18:01:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Ivan Portilla <
lportil@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: AC
control head
about a week ago I posted a question about the AC control head, as my AC
works properly but the control head "display" does not light up any more. Wanted
some input does any one know any good quick fix or is it toast? please
help
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 18:57:37 -0800
From: Keith Morgavi <
kdmorg@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Automatic Transmission and FWD to AWD
Hello,
I would like to know if it is possible to convert my FWD '93 Stealth RT NT
with Automatic Transmission to an AWD version of the same car. I know this may
be difficult and do not know where to start or if it is even possible.
Thank you very much for you consideration.
Regards,
Keith Morgavi
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 20:25:21 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Automatic Transmission and FWD to AWD
Its possible but you will spend twice more money on it than you would if
you were to just sell your car and get a TT. This is assuming that you find good
deals on TT parts, successfully sell your NA parts and do ALL of the work
yourself. Bottom line, plan on 2+ years of work about $12-16k in parts if you
want to do that.
Parts:
Used JDM Engine with turbos: $2500
ECU $200-700
Intercoolers and
intake piping $800
Exhaust system from the turbos on down $1000
Tranny
$2000-4000
Transfer case, driveshaft and rear diff $1500
Drive axles etc
$1000
ECS struts
AWS system
External stuff
are just the short list of things I can think off the top of my head.
Or just look up prices for 93TTs. If you shop around hard enough you can
find good Stealth TTs for under $5000 now. Even less if you don't mind a fixer
upper.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Morgavi
Sent: Saturday,
March 15, 2003 6:58 PM
Hello,
I would like to know if it is possible to convert my FWD '93 Stealth RT NT
with Automatic Transmission to an AWD version of the same car. I know this may
be difficult and do not know where to start or if it is even possible.
Thank you very much for you consideration.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 21:25:08 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil filters and plug gap
So I've tried the following oil filters on my 95 VR-4
Fram 3593 ($3.79)
Fram TG3593A Tough Guard ($5.79)
Fram X2 version of
size 3593 ($11.99)
K&N HP-1004 ($10.99)
Amsoil (around $8.00)
Mitsu
stock ($5.49)
Honda stock (around $6.50) my wife's 98 Accord V6 uses the same
filters as the 3000GT!
I have seen the Pennzoil but haven't tried it. I refuse to use the Fram
that is impregnated with Teflon for the obvious reasons...
Are there any that I have missed or should try? I have grown partial to the
K&N simply because of its 1" socket on the end that makes removal a snap
with a socket instead of using a filter wrench. But I kinda like the price of
the Mitsu...
On another note, why do I see spark plug gap listed as .44 for our cars?
That seems much wider than most people are running. Anyone running that wide a
gap?
Anyone out there happy with Bosch platinum plugs?
Yet another note: Will running a test pipe in place of your main cat
increase fuel mileage?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 14:08:43 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Wichita
team3s: need good shop for clutch work
Wichita team3s members:
I need the name of a good shop in Wichita, KS for clutch work on my '91
VR4.
Please email privately. Thanks!
Paul Klusman
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 14:31:57 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: General question
I don't know for sure Joe, but most cars now use timing belts instead of
timing chains. I feel the same way you do but apparently the car
manufacturers don't.
Belts are quieter, but that is about the only good thing I can think of
about them.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Sent:
Saturday, March 15, 2003 12:05 PM
> Hello All,
>
> Does anyone know why Mitsubishi
used a standard belt instead of a
> metal chain type timing belt? It
would seem that since the belt is so
> important to engine life, they
would have used one that you would not
> have to
replace
> or at
least not as often.
>
> Joseph
> 93 VR-4
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#105
***************************************