Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, March 7
2003 Volume 02 : Number
098
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 6 Mar 2003 09:57:07 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quick shift gear lever
I've gotta disagree with this
statement that the 3KGT shifter is somehow inferior to the more expensive (3/S?)
one. I get frustrated sometimes when I hear the following line of
logic:
- - Part A is inexpensive and not polished. It functions
well, all users are happy with it, and no problems have been reported.
- -
Part B is more than twice the cost, and is polished. Users Part B are also
happy, with no problems.
- - Because it costs more and is pretty, Part B must
be better.
I just don't understand this. It's your money, so I
guess you can spend it however you'd like. Why is it worth it?
Please quantify.
- - Brian
>
> There is also a
short shifter for our car in 3kgt but from
> what people are
>
saying in the forum and all, I would go with this other new
> short
shifter.
> It's definitely more expensive than 3kgt($89) but I think
> it's worth it. I
> plan to get one of this sometime in near
future after I take
> care of some
> other stuffs. Some of
the guys already have it installed and
> it seems like
> they are
really happy with their new shifters.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 13:35:53
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quick shift gear lever
on 3/6/03 10:57, Geddes, Brian J at
brian.j.geddes@intel.com
scribbled:
> I've gotta disagree with this statement that the 3KGT
shifter is somehow
> inferior to the more expensive (3/S?) one. I
get frustrated sometimes when I
> hear the following line of
logic:
>
> - Part A is inexpensive and not polished. It
functions well, all users are
> happy with it, and no problems have been
reported.
> - Part B is more than twice the cost, and is polished.
Users Part B are also
> happy, with no problems.
> - Because it
costs more and is pretty, Part B must be better.
>
> I just don't
understand this. It's your money, so I guess you can spend it
>
however you'd like. Why is it worth it? Please quantify.
I
have the solution: Part A and Part B should be sent to me from the
producers
so that I can try both. I'll post the results.
Call me a
philanthropist...
;-)
If the unpolished one works, then who's
gonna know otherwise once installed
(besides your wallet)?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 16:13:37
EST
From:
GMightymoose@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
question of drive belts
Could anyone tell me the best brand and location
of where one could find a
complete set of drive belts for a 92 VR4??
thanks in advance.
James G
99 & 92 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 15:16:04
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: question of drive belts
I would stick with the stock
belts. Here is a good place to order them =
from,
http://www.mitsupartsdirect.com/,
one of the better discount =
online dealers IMHO...
=20
Francis
'96
RT/TT
=20
- -----Original Message-----
From:
GMightymoose@aol.com
[mailto:GMightymoose@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 3:14 PM
To:
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: question of drive belts
=20
Could anyone tell me the best brand
and location of where one could find =
a complete set of drive belts for a 92
VR4?? thanks in advance.
James G
99 & 92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 21:20:00
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Quick shift gear lever
> - Part A is inexpensive and not
polished. It
> functions well, all users are happy with it,
>
and no problems have been reported.
> - Part B is more than twice the
cost, and is
> polished. Users Part B are also happy, with
>
no problems.
I was under the impression that the 3/S short shifter has
stops on it and the
other ones don't. If that's the case, then the 3/S
is superior in that it
will help prevent broken shift forks. Various
DSM owners have already learned
that lesson the hard way.
If you
break a shift fork from shifting forcefully without stops, you'll
easily
spend the difference in shifter cost in tranny parts and labor.
For the
record, I don't use either one.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 13:46:01
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quick shift gear lever
This is correct - there are no shift
stops on the 3KGT shifter. From what I've seen the shift stops never
actually get touched while shifting, and the shift forks are beefy enough to
take just about anything but a sledgehammer pounding the shifter into
gear. What I've read could be wrong - perhaps the shift stops are
important for our transmission. However, I haven't seen any evidence to
this effect.
After re-reading my post, I realized that it may have
sounded confrontational, or like an insult. I didn't mean it that
way! I was just venting my frustration on a trend I see in the 3/S
community that "more expensive is better", even on very simple parts. I
apologize if my post insulted anyone.
- - Brian
> I was under
the impression that the 3/S short shifter has
> stops on it and the
> other ones don't. If that's the case, then the 3/S is
>
superior in that it
> will help prevent broken shift forks. Various
DSM owners
> have already learned
> that lesson the hard
way.
>
> If you break a shift fork from shifting forcefully without
> stops, you'll
> easily spend the difference in shifter cost in
tranny parts and labor.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 16:06:17
-0600
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question: 1994 3000GT N/A @ 119k almost 120k, question about 120k
service.
Greetings fellow 3000GT/Stealth enthusiasts. I'm at almost 120k
on my 1994
3000GT N/A. I'm wondering what all I should have serviced? Is
there a list
somewhere, with all parts needed for 120k service? Any help or
advice will
be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
- -Philip
K.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 17:15:51
-0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quick shift gear lever
I have SN #1 of Ohiospyderman's 3S Short
Shifter installed in my car.
I am very particular that any hardware I put
on my car exceeds form, fit and
function of the part it replaces. I
can't tell you how GOOD this shifter
is. While it feels like stock in
terms of action, it is no more than half
the original throw length. The
quality of design and construction is so
good that most of the OEM hardware
is reused on the install.
The truth is, if you drove my car, you would
notice a difference but, you
might wonder what exactly was different until
you thought about it enough to
pay attention.
Bad
bob
'99VR-4
on 3/6/03 9:03 AM, Lim, Yong H SPC at
yong.lim@sill.army.mil
wrote:
> Here is the link:
>
http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?s=d7b78d526f98ca8c8c97952687>
4a3885&threadid=126519&highlight=short+shifter
>
> There is
also a short shifter for our car in 3kgt but from what people are
> saying
in the forum and all, I would go with this other new short shifter.
> It's
definitely more expensive than 3kgt($89) but I think it's worth it.
I
> plan to get one of this sometime in near future after I take care of
some
> other stuffs. Some of the guys already have it installed and
it seems like
> they are really happy with their new shifters.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 14:19:28
-0800
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question: 1994 3000GT N/A @ 119k almost 120k, question about 120k
service.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
>
Greetings fellow 3000GT/Stealth enthusiasts. I'm at almost 120k on my
1994
3000GT N/A. I'm wondering what all I should have serviced? Is there a
list
somewhere, with all parts needed for 120k service? Any help or advice
will be
greatly appreciated.
> Thanks
> -Philip K.
-
----------------------------
The recommendations are the same as for the
60k service, except that
replacing the water pump (which is only *strongly
recommended* for the 60k) is
pretty much mandatory for the 120k. We are
just about to update the 60k Page
on our website to include a 120k-specific
list, courtesy of Riyan, and that
will be up by the weekend, hopefully.
Look for it in the FAQ Index page,
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm-
---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 17:54:19
-0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quick shift gear lever
a waste of money unless you're
trying to
> take a hundredth of a second off of your ¼ mile time or you
want to
> be cool.
>
>
Jim Berry
OK I'll admit it. I qualify under the
latter.
Bad bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 15:40:14
-0800
From: "Ranzenbach Family" <
ranzenbach@sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Unable to shift into gear.
This started suddenly. I am
unable to shift from neutral into any gear. At
first I suspected low
fluid in the reservoir. The owner's manual would seem
to indicate that
both the clutch and brakes run from the same master
cylinder. Upon
checking, I found the cap loose. The fluid level was a
little low but
still more than the minimum. To be safe I added fluid and
was able to
drive a few blocks when once again I was unable to shift. Is
it
possible that I have air in the system and this is affecting the
clutch?
How would I correct this?
94 R/T TT 6sp AWD, complete engine
and turbo rebuild 4K miles (74K) ago.
Thanks, -ear
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 17:40:59
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Unable to shift into gear.
How's your clutch?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 3/6/03 16:40, Ranzenbach
Family at
ranzenbach@sbcglobal.net
scribbled:
> This started suddenly. I am unable to shift from
neutral into any gear. At
> first I suspected low fluid in the
reservoir. The owner's manual would seem
> to indicate that both the
clutch and brakes run from the same master
> cylinder. Upon
checking, I found the cap loose. The fluid level was a
> little low
but still more than the minimum. To be safe I added fluid and
> was
able to drive a few blocks when once again I was unable to shift. Is
it
> possible that I have air in the system and this is affecting the
clutch?
> How would I correct this?
>
> 94 R/T TT 6sp AWD,
complete engine and turbo rebuild 4K miles (74K) ago.
>
> Thanks,
-ear
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 16:51:08
-0800
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Unable to shift into gear.
It sure sounds like your clutch slave
cylinder needs bleeding. It is pretty
easy to do. It bleeds the same way
brakes do. Have someone in the car step
on the clutch and hold it in.
After the clutch is depressed quickly loosen
the bleed screw on the slave
cylinder and tighten it again. The person
inside will feel the clutch go down
a little but after releasing it, it
should feel tighter. After a couple of
times doing this you should be able
to shift into gear and drive normally. If
this does not work then maybe the
slave or the master has some other problem,
or maybe the problem is
elsewhere from the git go. Good
luck.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 21:36:29
EST
From:
GMightymoose@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
anyone have calipers for sale?
Hey guys I was wondering if anyone has any
a drivers side rear caliper and/or
good rotors for a 92 VR4 for sale.
thanks for any info in advance
James
99 & 92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 21:31:32
-0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Unable to shift into gear.
I don't want to scare you, but I
had this happen once in my old jeep (93).
It turned out to be that I had
actually cracked a gear(one associated with
5th gear) inside the transmission
and had to replace that gear. I REALIZE
that an AX-15 and a W5MG1 are
WORLDS apart, but I wanted to throw this in
because everybody seems to be
pointing to your clutch. If you check your
clutch and slve cylinder
only to find nothing wrong, you may have to look
deeper.
- -Jeff
C.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Ranzenbach Family
Sent:
Thursday, March 06, 2003 5:40 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Unable
to shift into gear.
<<SNIP>>I am unable to shift from neutral
into any gear. <<SNIP>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 01:12:27
-0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Unable
to shift into gear.
Actually, no, the brakes and clutch do not operate
from the same master
cylinder. The clutch master cylinder is tucked away
further back near the
firewall more towards the outside of the car from the
brake master cylinder.
You should see the cap hiding under the thick black AC
coolant line. It does
sound like one of your cylinders is going out. You can
see if it's the
master by looking at the firewall inside the car underneath
the clutch pedal
where the rod goes through to the master cylinder. If it's
wet under there,
the master cylinder needs replacing or rebuilding (rebuild
kit is only
$30ish) If it's bone dry under there, and the fluid is full, I
would suspect
the clutch slave cylinder. Replacing the slave fixed my
symptoms (which
sound exactly like yours). I rebuilt the master anyway. After
taking it
apart, the rubber seal on the plunger was pretty much shot compared
to the
new one in the rebuild kit. It may also be a pinhole leak in one of
the
rubber clutch hoses, but this usually leads to complete loss of
clutch
control.
Omar
92 r/t
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf Of
Ranzenbach Family
Sent:
Thursday, March 06, 2003 6:40 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Unable
to shift into gear.
This started suddenly. I am unable to shift
from neutral into any gear. At
first I suspected low fluid in the
reservoir. The owner's manual would seem
to indicate that both the
clutch and brakes run from the same master
cylinder. Upon checking, I
found the cap loose. The fluid level was a
little low but still more
than the minimum. To be safe I added fluid and
was able to drive a few
blocks when once again I was unable to shift. Is it
possible that I
have air in the system and this is affecting the clutch?
How would I correct
this?
94 R/T TT 6sp AWD, complete engine and turbo rebuild 4K miles (74K)
ago.
Thanks, -ear
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 05:06:41
-0500
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More info on heavy engine knocking
Sincerest thanks to all who
responded to my question. Here is more detail
on my problem.
1. Car
is '92 Stealth twin turbo with 78,000 miles.
2. Problem surfaced after oil
change.
3. Knocking seems to originate from rear head area.
4. Scent of
gasoline on dipstick.
5. Knock is definite metal to metal rapping
sound,
increasing in volume & intensity with rpm
6.
When slight load on engine, in gear just above idle,
noise changes from "sharp" to "dull".
7. No loss of engine performance
up to 3500 rpm (didn't
dare go
higher).
I would like to find an individual or shop in the Jamestown, NY
area (Erie,
PA, Buffalo, NY) who has an understanding of these
cars and can diagnose &
service if necessary. Anyone come to
mind?
Thank you,
Jon Arthurs
Jamestown, NY
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 03:25:05
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
More info on heavy engine knocking
Since I live in CA, I don't know of
any shops. But I sure can give you a
little more advice. If you smell gas on
the dipstick even after doing a few
oil changes, then you might have a leaky
fuel injector. After you stop your
car, the residual pressure might be
bleeding through cracks in the injector
and slowly dispersing past the piston
rings and into the lower part of the
crankcase where the oil is. If you end
up needing some (or even just 1) new
injectors, then I'll give you all six of
my old stock ones for cheap. You
can have them flow matched and balanced
through RC Engineering and then
install them. Although the noises you
describe "sound" like bad news, your
car only has 78k on it. So I'd be
willing to bet that your engine internals
are fine, unless the previous owner
really didn't take care of the car (as
in, changed the oil less than once per
year). Since your car is turbo,
remember to fill it up with Mobil 1 15W-50
synthetic oil when all the short
interval oil changes that I discussed
earlier have been performed.
When you do find a dealer, ask them to
remove the accessory belts and see if
the noises go away. You may have
severely damaged bearings on an accessory
somewhere.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 08:22:41
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Unable to shift into gear.
Also, the brakes and the clutch work
off separate master cylinders with
separate fluid reservoirs. So make
sure your checking the correct
reservoir for the clutch. It's the one
with the 1-1/4 -1-1/2 inch white
cap on it.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Andrew Woll [mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Thursday,
March 06, 2003 7:51 PM
To: Ranzenbach Family;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Unable to shift into gear.
It sure sounds like your clutch slave
cylinder needs bleeding. It is
pretty
easy to do. It bleeds the same way
brakes do. Have someone in the car
step
on the clutch and hold it
in. After the clutch is depressed quickly
loosen
the bleed screw on the
slave cylinder and tighten it again. The person
inside will feel the clutch
go down a little but after releasing it, it
should feel tighter. After a
couple of times doing this you should be
able
to shift into gear and drive
normally. If this does not work then maybe
the
slave or the master has
some other problem, or maybe the problem is
elsewhere from the git go.
Good luck.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 13:26:23
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: I have a V-12!
I had an exhaust done on my car this week. The
Stillen pipe was shortened
to accept a high-flow heavy duty Catco cat (the
flex section was moved
forward). Then a 3" pipe splits into two 2.5" pipes
and goes to twin Bomz
Performance Evolution-R Spec tunable mufflers. The
muffler guy did a good
job and I am happy now. He also fabricated a test pipe
to replace the cat
when I want those 5-10 extra horses.
The car now
pulls better and revs higher. I hit the rev limiter first time
I opened it
because it just did not want to slow down accelerating. The
sound is
definitely not a low-pitch growl, unless I remove the tunable
inserts and rev
it at low rpm, then it will be. I can hear my left and
right ears popping one
at a time like from two subwoffers when I stand in
the back of the car. My
goal was not to make it sound like a V8. My goal
was to minimize the
restriction and keep the noise under control, which is
exactly the result
that I got. It flows very well and it is rather quiet
too.
I was
thinking about how to describe the sound. It is not the stock choked
V6 and
it is not the growly big-bore V8. The pulses are occurring at a
higher
frequency and they sound smoother too. The car sounds a little bit
like a jet
engine when the turbos are spooling up and then the exhaust
becomes one loud
gas flow. The smoothness it probably due to the turbos
smoothing out the
pulses. First I thought it sounded like two 4-banger rice
rockets. Then I
thought no way, there has got to be the a third one in
there too. Three
4-bangers? Or rather a 12-cylinder? It makes a perfect
sense! Six cylinders
are shooting their exhaust into a single pipe, which
then splits into two
unequal-length muffler pipes. The result is that I
have six cylinders
sounding out of one pipe and six out of the other with a
kind of cool stereo
effect. It's a V12 baby!
Philip
'95 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 16:10:27
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: I have a V-12!
Please forward some of whatever you are smoking as
it appears to be working
well on you.;-)
How much did all this exhaust
rework flatten your wallet?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on
3/7/03 11:26,
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com at
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comscribbled:
>
I had an exhaust done on my car this week. The Stillen pipe was
shortened
> to accept a high-flow heavy duty Catco cat (the flex section
was moved
> forward). Then a 3" pipe splits into two 2.5" pipes and goes
to twin Bomz
> Performance Evolution-R Spec tunable mufflers. The muffler
guy did a good
> job and I am happy now. He also fabricated a test pipe to
replace the cat
> when I want those 5-10 extra horses.
>
>
The car now pulls better and revs higher. I hit the rev limiter first
time
> I opened it because it just did not want to slow down accelerating.
The
> sound is definitely not a low-pitch growl, unless I remove the
tunable
> inserts and rev it at low rpm, then it will be. I can hear my
left and
> right ears popping one at a time like from two subwoffers when
I stand in
> the back of the car. My goal was not to make it sound like a
V8. My goal
> was to minimize the restriction and keep the noise under
control, which is
> exactly the result that I got. It flows very well and
it is rather quiet
> too.
>
> I was thinking about how to
describe the sound. It is not the stock choked
> V6 and it is not the
growly big-bore V8. The pulses are occurring at a
> higher frequency and
they sound smoother too. The car sounds a little bit
> like a jet engine
when the turbos are spooling up and then the exhaust
> becomes one loud
gas flow. The smoothness it probably due to the turbos
> smoothing out the
pulses. First I thought it sounded like two 4-banger rice
> rockets. Then
I thought no way, there has got to be the a third one in
> there too.
Three 4-bangers? Or rather a 12-cylinder? It makes a perfect
> sense! Six
cylinders are shooting their exhaust into a single pipe, which
> then
splits into two unequal-length muffler pipes. The result is that I
> have
six cylinders sounding out of one pipe and six out of the other with a
>
kind of cool stereo effect. It's a V12 baby!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2 #98
**************************************