Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, March 4
2003 Volume 02 : Number 095
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 11:35:16 -0600
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Ok, I guess I am not going with Enkei though I want it really bad
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 15:43:21 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 275/35R18 on stock 18" rims?
Paul,
I tried a 275/xx/17 on the front of my stock 1995 VR-4 and it would not
contact the hub to put the lugnuts on. The same tire fit with plenty of
room in the rear though. I think the largest tire on stock wheel in the
front is a 265-width one. I thought Cody had a 275-width tire but thought
it also had a spacer on it - he'll know.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
Sent: Monday, March 03,
2003 10:53
Sorry for being redundant, if that is the case, but is anybody running
275/35R18 tires on stock 18" rims? Clearance problems in the front? I formerly
had 265/35R18 on the rear and can vouch for that personally, however I no not
about this size or the 275 size for the front.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 13:25:30 -0800
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
I couldn't agree with Geoff more on this. The barely noticeable gains
from a underdrive pulley is not worth the "possible" negative effects of loosing
the harmonic balancer. If you want higher revving, then get a flywheel
installed, rather than changing the pulley. Also remove the A/C compressor
and go to a non-power steering set up. That will get you all the benefits,
plus lose quite some #s.
As far as suspension, I'd go 100% with the JIC set up rather than the
GAB/GC/Camber Plate set up. The costs are quite close and the JICs are far
more tunable. The ride is quite nice on softer settings and will certainly
knock your fillings out on the harder settings.
- -Damon
> > adding the TEC front tower bar, rear anti-sway bar, and
lightweight
> > crank pulley, all from 3SX Performance.
>
---
> That'd better be the damping pulley...if its not, give up
the
> single-digit HP gains for reliability.
>
> IMHO, make a
real track car Bob, lets enduro this thing.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 15:26:42 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 275/35R18 on stock 18" rims?
It'll work with spacers... I have 18x8.5 aftermarket wheels and 275/35-18
on there now... 40 mm offset, and there is very very little clearance with
half worn Kumho's... I plan on using a 5 mm spacer, or going to 265/35's
the next go around... with stock offset of 46, you would need at least a
10mm spacer and longer studs to accommodate it...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 15:24:56 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
Well, you all disagree with the RMA (Rubber manufacturers association),
Michelin, BFG and all the other major manufacturers...
There is more work done by the front, but remember safety, not
capability.
All cars are built with understeer. There is a reason... When
pushed to the limit, they will not kick the ass around... This is designed
this way because it's safer for 98% of the drivers... I would rather have
the car understeer than oversteer. Think of which you would rather
have? Understeer is MUCH more controllable than oversteer. Oversteer
may be fun, but it is definitely not safer... And you track guys, wouldn't
you rather say "damn, I was going too fast, and I barely nosed off the
track" instead of "damn, I was going too fast, and the back spun on me,
and I ended up tail into the wall"
This is why new tires on rear.
Directly from Michelin.
Related, indirectly...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 13:59:54 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
> I couldn't agree
with Geoff more on this. The barely noticeable gains
> from a
underdrive pulley is not worth the "possible" negative effects of loosing the
harmonic balancer. If you want higher revving, then get a flywheel
installed, rather than changing the pulley. Also remove the A/C compressor
and go to a non-power steering set up. That will get you all the benefits,
plus lose quite some #s.
- ----------------------->
I had no intention
of installing an underdrive pulley, just a lightweight one. BUT I didn't
understand that the heavier stock pulley is harmonically balanced, while the
aluminum pulley is not. Now I DO understand, and I'll stick with
stock.
> As far as suspension, I'd go 100% with the JIC set up rather than the
> GAB/GC/Camber Plate set up. The costs are quite close and the
JICs
> are far more tunable. The ride is quite nice on softer
settings and will certainly knock your fillings out on the harder settings.
-Damon
- ----------------------->
Yup, I've ordered the JIC. Good
to know that it can be set soft enough to drive it on the street....
Thanks!
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Of course if you put the old tires in the front, they will wear down
quicker and I can sell you two more tires sooner. It's the time value of
money thing. I'm sure there's no ulterior motive here from the major tire
manufacturers. For that matter, oversteer from tread wear can be balanced
by understeer introduced by modifying tire pressures. Don't we have a
chart posted somewhere?
Chuck Willis
BTW Good links Cody!
------------------------------
I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with 245/40/18 tires (18x8.5 wheel) that will
only be driven in the dry. Wet/all season performance doesn't matter to me.
I am looking to get tires in 2 weeks or so. I am trying to decide between
the Kumho Supra 712's or Sumitomo HTR Z II's.
The Sumitomo's are $14 more each. Anyone have experience with either. Is it
worth the price difference?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
BPU
------------------------------
Hey! I almost missed the fact that Michelin's answer is really
directed toward RWD and FWD cars - since we have AWD, we can just ignore that
advice!
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 17:10:07 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
Hey Bob are you looking for an underdrive pulley? If so I know
extreme performance from MD makes one that is a dampened underdrive
pulley. Just some food for thought.......
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 14:30:20 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
Hey Bob are you looking for an underdrive pulley? If so I know
>
extreme performance from MD makes one that is a dampened underdrive
>
pulley. Just some food for thought....... Russ F
> CT
-
-------------------------->
Thanks anyway, no... I thought it was a
balanced lightweight pulley. Not only am I definitely NOT looking for an
underdrive pulley, the only one I think *anyone* should use is a balanced UD
pulley (Buscher Racing makes one, too, but I didn't know about the one
from MD). I had been under the mistaken impression that the same-size
lightweight pulley (NOT a smaller underdrive
pulley) was balanced. It's
not balanced, so I'm not interested. But my engine builder (and other
members here) say it's not worth it for a single-digit HP gain anyway. I'm
just leaving it stock... Thanks for the info for the Archives!
-
--Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 14:55:36 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
Maybe it's just a tomayto/tomahto thing, but just in case... you've
mentioned a "balanced pulley" a bunch of times in this thread. A harmonic
balancer isn't just a balanced pulley - it's a pulley designed in such a way
that it dampens the natural vibrations in the rotating assembly of the
engine. By reducing the vibrations of the crank/rod/piston/flywheel/etc.
system, then harmonic balancer reduces stress on that system and extends engine
life. Whether the pulley itself is balanced or not isn't the issue with
the harmonic balancer - it's whether the pulley has the necessary damping
materials (rubber or something like it) to dampen engine vibrations.
Single-piece metal pulleys don't dampen much of anything :-)
You probably already know that stuff, but I can see how someone reading
this thread might be confused.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 15:57:39 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire comparison
> I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with 245/40/18 tires (18x8.5 wheel)
that
> will only be driven in the dry. Wet/all season performance doesn't
> matter to me.
>
> I am looking to get tires in 2 weeks or
so. I am trying to decide
> between the Kumho Supra 712's or Sumitomo HTR
Z II's.
>
> The Sumitomo's are $14 more each. Anyone have
experience with either.
> Is it worth the price difference?
No experience with the Sumitomo's but the Kumhos are what I've been running
now for several summers.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
> I am looking to get tires in 2 weeks or so. I am trying to
decide
> between the Kumho Supra 712's or Sumitomo HTR Z
II's.
>
> The Sumitomo's are $14 more each. Anyone have experience
with either.
> Is it worth the price difference?
Curtis, I've got the Sumitomo's on my TT. They're superb dry and wet
traction tires, but aren't worth a couple of bucks in the snow. They made
my car a "brick on skis". So other than in snow, they are great great
tires. Don't have any personal experience with the Kumho's, but I've heard good
stuff about them, especially in the price/value/performance category.
Maybe check out review websites for what other people have rated them each
(epinions.com, etc.)?
My 0.02
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 58k miles, Open Air Intake, Blitz
DSBC, Blitz DATT Wichita, KS
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 18:58:24 -0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ok, I need help on choosing the rims..
I am convinced that the Enkei RPM-2 17x9 - 38mm offset will fit my '99
VR-4. I currently have 18x9 -38mm offset RPM-2, with 265x35x18 Kumho ecstrav700
racers mounted in front of TEIN HA suspension. All clearances are larger
than stock rims with 245x40x18 street tires.
I just called Enkei last week to check on 17 sizes. I am
contemplating downsizing for tire savings as well as more choices. There
is a 17x9 -38mm offset and I would recommend it. You may have to ask
www.tires.com to get it from Enkei for you - but
they will, that's how I got mine last April. My 18's weigh in just under
20lbs and have seen some abuse and are still round.
The 17's should come in around $230 per at discount
Bad bob
> I already made up my mind on the tires, I am going to get
BFGoodrich
> g-Force T/A KDWS 245/45-17. Now, I want 17'' rims but I
am not sure
> what rims are out there for sure beside the ones shown in
> tirerack.com. I found two rims so far other than the ones in
>
tirerack.com that I think look pretty decent: DTM 2000 (VR4) 17x9 @
>
speedfacotr.net
>
> Enkei RPM2 17X9 5-114.3 40HB @ tire.com
>
> Which one should I get and I'm not 100% sure if Enkei rims are
going
> to fit in my vr4 for sure. Does anybody if it will for sure
without
> using spacers? Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 19:02:59 -0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: I just talked with the rep. in tire.com regarding enkei wheel
The protrusion is not noticeable on my 18x9's (38offset). Calculated
it is 0.565 - but the Kumho's I run do not have rim protector bars molded in and
so it is really a bit less
Bad bob
> They tell me that Enkei RPM02 would protrude outwards 0.5 inches
more
> than the OEM wheel and the offset is 40mm. I really like the
fact that
> this wheel is a lightweight but I'm not sure if this will fit
or not?
> I think the offset with 17*8 is 35mm. Which one
should I get, 17*8 or
> 17*9.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 16:32:34 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Lightweight Pulley FAQ...
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
> Maybe
it's just a tomayto/tomahto thing, but just in case... you've
>
mentioned a "balanced pulley" a bunch of times in this thread. A
>
harmonic balancer isn't just a balanced pulley - it's a pulley
> designed
in such a way that it dampens the natural vibrations in the
> rotating
assembly of the engine. By reducing the vibrations of the
>
crank/rod/piston/flywheel/etc. system, then harmonic balancer reduces
>
stress on that system and extends engine life. Whether the pulley itself is
balanced or not isn't the issue with the harmonic balancer - it's whether the
pulley has the necessary damping materials (rubber or something like it) to
dampen engine vibrations. Single-piece metal pulleys don't dampen much of
anything :-) You probably already know that stuff, but I can see how someone
reading this thread might be confused. --Erik '95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross-
--------------------------->
Great point! You're right! The stock pulley has a "pulley
within a pulley", separated by rubber. This is used in "damping" the
vibrations from the engine. The single piece pulley doesn't do any damping
- that's correct. On the other hand, proponents of using a one-piece
lightweight pulley say that it *is* balanced, by the nature of its
construction. Further, that the belt itself, made out of rubber, does all
the damping you need to protect the engine components. We've debated those
things before, so there is no need to re-hash it... ;-) Hope that
ends any confusion from what I wrote earlier. Thanks, Erik!
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 18:31:56 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lightweight Pulley FAQ...
Are you suggesting that the OEM dampened pulley isn't -balanced-?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 19:07:24 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
No, it's directed towards everyone. And new tires on the rear doesn't
necessarily mean the fronts will wear down faster... In fact, in a RWD
car/truck, the rears will wear quicker.
Stop thinking about this on dry pavement, and think in the wet, where it is
easier to slide... Which end would you rather go off the pavement first -
the front or the rear???
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Monday,
March 03, 2003 3:36 PM
Hey! I almost missed the fact that Michelin's answer is really
directed toward RWD and FWD cars - since we have AWD, we can just ignore that
advice!
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 21:47:44 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
At 08:07 PM 3/3/2003, cody wrote:
>Stop thinking about this on dry
pavement, and think in the wet, where
>it is easier to slide...
Which end would you rather go off the
>pavement first - the front or the
rear???
Exactly. Chuck, you probably do not have winters in Texas, but if you did
and if you tried to brake in a non-ABS car, you would immediately agree
which wheels you would rather have sliding out of control first. The front
wheels lock up and nothing happens. You can still safely stop or let of the
brake and turn. But the rear ones stars sliding and there is nothing you
could do except to lift off the brakes completely, counter steer, and hope
that the car would slow down and stabilize itself, which might never happen
because oversteer is unstable by its nature. Once the oversteer starts
happening it cannot be reversed unless you reduce your speed. But you
cannot reduce your speed because you cannot brake. Understeer on the other
hand is self-stabilizing. I could write another dissertation on this with
wheel lateral forces, slip angles, force vectors and turning radii, but I
do not want to bore the list. Just trust me. Instead watch this video and
see what happens when the rear wheels start sliding before the front ones
do. This guy now wishes he had not had the ability to turn-in and instead
kept sliding forward to a complete stop.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 18:58:39 -0800
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Blue
Book on 92 Stealth R/T Turbo
Anyone know what the going rate for one is in good shape? Mine is going to
be totaled and I found one reference that only has around $9,500 for in
excellent condition! What is fair market value?
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 21:22:08 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire comparison
> I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with 245/40/18 tires
> (18x8.5 wheel)
that will only be driven in the dry.
>Wet/all season performance doesn't
matter to me.
>
> I am looking to get tires in 2 weeks or so. I
am
> trying to decide between the Kumho Supra 712's
> or Sumitomo
HTR Z II's.
I'm using the Sumitomo HTR Z-II's on my Spyder (stock 245/45-17 size) and
they rock pretty well. Autocrossed on them a few times and when heated up
they get sticky like race tires (but wear quickly when pushed to the limit like
that). Dry grip is very predictable and stable, cornering is smooth. I've
put maybe 10,000 miles on them and there's still plenty of wear left.
I don't have any experience with the Kumhos, so can't speak
comparatively.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 22:55:10 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: p/n
lookup
Those of you with caps on hand or with a '99 frontend and a few minutes of
time, could you help me out?
The '99 front side marker attaches to a little piece of plastic that in
turn attaches to the side of the headlight. If anyone knows what that number is
and can send it to me (privately) that'd be great.
TIA,
Alex
'95 VR4 w/ partial '99 frontend
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 20:56:15 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Blue Book on 92 Stealth R/T Turbo
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
> Anyone know what the
going rate for one is in good shape? Mine is
> going to be totaled and I
found one reference that only has around
> $9,500 for in excellent
condition! What is fair market value?
> Rich
-
------------------------>
Just go and look it up on the Kelly site,
www.kbb.com. You can get values for what it
costs to by privately or from a dealer; or what to expect if you're selling, as
well. You'll need to enter the model, year, mileage and options..., and
your zip code, since prices vary by locale... Good luck!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 23:00:19 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire comparison
Kumho 712's are great tires, better than the Sumitomo's actually, from
comparisons of many different people. I like my Kumho 712's, but switched
to Yokohama AVS ES100's on my Talon, and might do the same on my 3000 as
well... They cost pennies more, and are well worth it. People compare the
ES100 to Michelin Pilot Sports (which is a very high priced tire)...
Another tire you might look into is the Kumho Ecsta MX. It costs
roughly 30% more than the 712, but again, read some reviews - it plays up there
with the big boys, above the Michelin Pilot Sport, and right along with the
BFGoodrich T/A KD, which is considered the highest performing street tire
available. (meaning not a track tire you can drive on the street)
- -Cody
(FYI, I deal with this stuff every day)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Curtis McConnell
Sent: Monday,
March 03, 2003 4:06 PM
I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with 245/40/18 tires (18x8.5 wheel) that will
only be driven in the dry. Wet/all season performance doesn't matter to me.
I am looking to get tires in 2 weeks or so. I am trying to decide between
the Kumho Supra 712's or Sumitomo HTR Z II's.
The Sumitomo's are $14 more each. Anyone have experience with either. Is it
worth the price difference?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
BPU
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 02:12:58 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
Good link Cody and Chuck it mentions Four-Wheel drive cars in the second
paragraph but Cody, it skips around "which location do you put two tires with
the most tread on a 4WD vehicle" - can you answer?
"For four-wheel drive vehicles, if no instructions for tire mixing appear
in the vehicle's owner's manual, adhere to the following
guidelines:
- -
Do not mix sizes . All four tires must be branded with the same tire size.
-
- Do not mix radial and bias-ply tires. All four must be either radial or
bias-ply.
- - Be sure that the outside circumference of all four tires is
within 1-1/2-inch of each other.
- - Do not mix tread patterns such as
all-terrain and all-season."
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003
16:25
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 10:41:48 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
>Old friend and "Big Red Brakes" impresario Brad Bedell is back on
the
>scene, re-engineering his high-performance brake offering. Stay
>tuned... And get in touch with him if you are in the market for
the
>original "real deal" Big Reds:
bbedell@attbi.com
This would be great. The brackets he did before were not what I was
expecting regarding quality and fitment. Just handmade stuff that needed
some more work :( Great he'll improve them.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 12:20:11 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
Unfortunately, the four brackets I got for two kits did not fit and I had
to
redo them on some parts. I finally noticed that the calipers touch
the
rotors and this is why I haven't used them more than once. Also, I hate
the
word "cheap" when it goes to the brakes ... I will love to pay $50 more
and
have a high class products rather than what I got. I will definitely let
one do my own brackets on a local shop so I can use the ones I got as an
example.
But I know have the Willwood kit that goes onto the new car soon. Very
impressive and much lighter than the Brembo calipers in Porsche red. IMHO,
this kit is done very professional. I'm sure Brad can do this as well.
At 05:18 04.03.2003 -0500, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>Maybe you got a
different item than I did. I ordered mine around March
>2001 and
sure the bracket is handmade but it is cheaper that way
>(rather than
having some store-bought item from the nearby hardware
>store add their
own markup). Mine fits perfectly fine as does Rich
>Merritt, Jim
Floyd, etc. Jim even has the second adventure which
>incorporates a
two-piece rotor I think or at least takes full advantage
>of the Big Red
brake pad instead of letting it overhang the rotor. So
>I just felt
like standing up for Brad "Big Red" Bedell in his hardware.
>
>I was
very impressed with it (he even shipped a few extra shiny red
>bolts for
when mine turned dirty or he knew I was going to lose just
>one of them
or something).
>
>He also called me the day after I emailed him pics
of the install and
>told me to stop the car, walk home, bring back tools,
and fix the
>problem (I had put the banjo fitting SS brake line from the
front on
>the rear and the rear line on the front) and he was worried it
would
>leak or not fit right. I was just 2 miles from home so I
drove home
>easily and switched it at home. I appreciated the call
on my cell
>phone with an urgent tone from him. Fantastic customer
support.
>
>Thanks to Steve Lasher with the help on this Big Red
install
page:
>www.team3S.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/BigReds_install.htm
>
>--Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 09:33:30 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
Yes, four-wheel drive. They are talking about trucks, not
cars... 1 and a half inches would tear the VC right out of a VR4...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Tuesday,
March 04, 2003 1:13 AM
Good link Cody and Chuck it mentions Four-Wheel drive cars in the second
paragraph but Cody, it skips around "which location do you put two tires with
the most tread on a 4WD vehicle" - can you answer?
"For four-wheel drive vehicles, if no instructions for tire mixing appear
in the vehicle's owner's manual, adhere to the following
guidelines:
- -
Do not mix sizes . All four tires must be branded with the same tire size.
-
- Do not mix radial and bias-ply tires. All four must be either radial or
bias-ply.
- - Be sure that the outside circumference of all four tires is
within 1-1/2-inch of each other.
- - Do not mix tread patterns such as
all-terrain and all-season."
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 10:31:26 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: p/n lookup
There is no part number. That piece is "built-in" to the headlight...
If you don't have it, you will need to fabricate something to hold it in
place.
On my car, I purchased '94 Stealth headlights and they have the attachment
piece. The only other headlights to have it are the true 99
lights...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
Sent: Monday, March
03, 2003 9:55 PM
Those of you with caps on hand or with a '99 frontend and a few minutes of
time, could you help me out?
The '99 front side marker attaches to a little piece of plastic that in
turn attaches to the side of the headlight. If anyone knows what that number is
and can send it to me (privately) that'd be great.
TIA,
Alex
'95 VR4 w/ partial '99 frontend
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 11:31:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Building a Track Car Part2 - I Got a VR4!
Roger:
Can you give me a Wilwood part-number for that kit?
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#95
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