Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, March 2
2003 Volume 02 : Number
093
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 28 Feb 2003 21:06:24 -0500
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
Very intersting thread. But since my opinions
and experiences are just the
opposite of others have stated, here's my
2c:
I always replaced my tires in pairs (front or rear), but I've always
put
the new tires on the front and rotated the older ones to the rear,
my
theory being that the front tires need the most traction because they
do
the steering. My exception to that is when I put new all-season tires
on
the rear in the winter (while keeping the older, but still good
performance
tires on the front) due to ice/snow conditions where the older
rear
performance tires were breaking loose in turns. The rear tires were also
a
different brand than the front.
My car has 154K miles on it now, and
I've had no tranny or xfer case
problems to this point (knock on wood!)
Hopefully it's not because I'm just
lucky!
Jeff W.
Belleville,
MI
- ---------------------
>>>From: "Riyan Mynuddin"
<
riyan@hotpop.com>
>>>My
question... I have four OEM tires (the Goodyear Eagle ZR45s) on
my
>>>Stealth. The two in the front are about 60 to 70% worn out and
the back
two
>>>are practically new (less than 3000 miles). I've
been told that the
>>>transmission and/or transfer case can wear
prematurely when replacing
two
>>>tires alone on an AWD car. Is
this true? If so, I can always buy two
more
>>>ZR45s now (in
order to balance the grip on both axles) but I was
hoping
to
>>>wait until all of my tires are more significantly
worn and just buy a
set of
>>>four better performance tires
rather than sinking money into the OEM
tires.
-
------------------------------
>>From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
>>That's
probably a question that we've all faced at one time or another.
>>I
don't know that there is a consensus on this. Some say that it
is
>>important that all tires be the same size to prevent burning out
parts
>>of the tranny and transfer case, like the diff. For this
reason, these
>>people also say that it is equally important to NOT mix
manufacturers
>>front and back either. You should have the same
all around. Others say
>>as long as you change the tires in
pairs, and move the tires with the
>>deepest tread to the front, you
should do no damage. I don't know who
>>is right and who is
wrong, so I rotate my tires every season, and change
>>them all at the
same time.
- --------------
>From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
>Actually,
newest tires should always go on the rear for safety reasons...
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 21:30:47
-0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spring installation
If you are installing aftermarket springs the
only time you need a
spring compressor is to install the front
springs.
I helped JeremyG do his struts and springs and used a
spring
compressor to take the springs off and re-install them. When we
tried to reinstall the rear struts we realized the Vendor screwed up
and
sent us wrong struts. I realized I could spin the rear Intrax
spring
by hand, so I didn't use a spring compressor to take it
apart, It didn't pop
AT ALL. I installed the intrax rear spring on
the correct TT strut w/o
a compressor at all. I didn't even have to
push down on the
spring. Teh frotn spring came apart with a tiny
pop but iot hardly
jerked. I was actually able to install one of
his front springs w/o a
compressor but it took all of my 250lb
weight to get the nut started.
I couldn't quite get the other front
spring to compress enough by hand so I
used a Spring compressor.
I also did a strut replacement on a ECS NA with
stock springs and I
did not use a compressor on the rear springs at all, no
problem. I
un-did the front springs w/o a compressor either. I
would let my
wife take the top nut off, it is that anti-climatic. The
spring
makes a little pop and only moves about 1/2" after taking the nut
off. It definately takes a spring compressor to re-install the
front springs but that is about it.
On a 3S I think it is more
dangerous to use a spring compressor than
to just let it pop, because the
spring compressor preloads the
spring MUCH MUCH more that the strut is at
rest.
I have links to a few spring installs on my webpage
http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/Suspension.htmlJohn
Monnin
1991 VR-4 4-Bolt main conversion
NG02, NG03 Road course event
coordinator,
http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/NG03RoadCourse.htmlemail
me if interested.
Original messge below:
>Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003
12:06:51 +1100
>From: "joel singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
>Subject:
Team3S: replacin springs
>Hi,
>just wondering how hard it is to
change the springs to lowered
>springs in our cars.
>I have a 92
VR4 with ECS.
>is there anything I need to take care of while changing
springs.
>Do anyone have a procedure on how to do this.
>thanks for
all your help
> regards,
> Joel from downunder
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:43:47
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
"My exception to that is when I put new
all-season tires on
the rear in the winter (while keeping the older, but
still good
performance
tires on the front) due to ice/snow conditions
where the older rear
performance tires were breaking loose in turns."
This is the exact reason we always recommend new tires to the rear
when
not replacing all 4... Also, one other thing, there was a study
done on
the Explorer's and the faulty Firestone tires... I don't recall
exact
numbers, but almost everyone that had a blow out on the rear
lost
control of the vehicle and/or rolled... Almost every single driver
that
had a blow out on the front was able to control the vehicle because
they
were able to fight against the will of the vehicle to pull to
one
side... When the tire was in the rear, the rear of the vehicle
would
pull horribly, and that is harder to control...
Also, if mixing
speed ratings, higher speed rated goes to the rear, also
if mismatching
sizes, wider goes to the rear, at least that is the tire
industries
recommendation.
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 22:15:00
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: AWD tire rec's
And the explanation to this is very basic and
simple.
Bad/old/narrow/blown-up tires have less lateral grip. If they are in
the
front that causes more understeer. If they are in the rear that causes
more
oversteer. Understeer does not feel very good but it is perfectly safe
and
it is much better than the oversteer, which could go completely out of
control if things get hairy at a high speed.
That reminds me all
those high-speed police chases when pursued cars do
some little steering
wheel jerk going 100 MPH and trying to avoid something
but then cannot
regain control or even stop until they hit something or
roll over. And it is
always the rear end that comes around. Oversteer at
high speeds is
lethal.
To expand on that thought, this is why even FWD race cars have
wings in the
rear and not in the front. They use them to create downforce on
the rear
axle to increase traction in the rear, increase understeer, and
stabilize
the car when it goes fast. When they slow down though, the
downforce is
gone and the car goes back to its normal and comfy neutral
steer or a minor
oversteer.
Keep those rear wheels in a good
shape!
Philip
At 09:43 PM 2/28/2003, cody wrote:
>"My
exception to that is when I put new all-season tires on
>the rear in the
winter (while keeping the older, but still good
>performance
>tires
on the front) due to ice/snow conditions where the older rear
>performance
tires were breaking loose in turns."
>
>This is the exact reason we
always recommend new tires to the rear when
>not replacing all 4...
Also, one other thing, there was a study done on
>the Explorer's and the
faulty Firestone tires... I don't recall exact
>numbers, but almost
everyone that had a blow out on the rear lost
>control of the vehicle
and/or rolled... Almost every single driver that
>had a blow out on
the front was able to control the vehicle because they
>were able to fight
against the will of the vehicle to pull to one
>side... When the
tire was in the rear, the rear of the vehicle would
>pull horribly, and
that is harder to control...
>
>Also, if mixing speed ratings,
higher speed rated goes to the rear, also
>if mismatching sizes, wider
goes to the rear, at least that is the tire
>industries
recommendation.
>
>-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 23:43:51
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
FS: Altered Atmosphere EGR Block-off plates
I finally got a set of
Altered Atmosphere EGR block-off plates that were a
bonus for buying an AEM
EMS from them last summer. I blocked-off my EGR
long time ago, so I do not
need them. Anyone wants them for $30 shipped?
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/AAM_EGR_block-off.jpgThe
set consists of two plates that eliminate the EGR tube. From the
Altered
Atmosphere website:
"The AAM Spec. EGR By-Pass plates eliminate the rear
pipe between the rear
turbo and intake manifold. Not only do the AAM Spec.
EGR By-Pass plates
help increase power by keeping the hot and oily exhaust
gases out of your
Stealth/3000GT VR4's intake manifold, but they make
changing the spark
plugs much easier because they by-pass the rear egr pipe
which is a pain to
align properly when installing the upper intake
manifold."
AAM Price: $69.96 (pair)
Philip
gphilip@umich.edu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 21:15:30
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
re: AWD tire rec's
Yes it is. That's what made me lose control of my car
and get into my fender
bender.
On the topic of understeer, I once took
my car to a huge parking lot to try
out some cornerning and I can agree with
that fact that understeer is much
safer. It sure is frustrating to be turning
the wheel, only to have your car
snow-plowing straight. But I never did feel
like I was losing control in
that situation.
Based on the responses,
I'm going to hang on to those worn ZR45s a little
bit longer and swap the
tires on that axle alone later on. I still don't
feel comfortable mixing
different brands or models of tires, but same models
with different treadwear
doesn't seem like such a big deal unless you're
talking about nearly bald
tires (not my case) which need to be changed
anyway.
Unfortunately, my
tranny+xfer case only have about 30k miles on them, so I
won't be a very good
test subject until many years from now.
Thanks for all the
responses.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
-
-------------------------->
Philip wrote:
Oversteer at high
speeds is lethal.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 04:10:45
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: replacin springs
It's not that hard, even w/o spring
compressors, you won't need them if the
lowering springs lower the car an
inch or more, since their uncompressed
length is less than stock.
You
keep the car at rest, on the ground, NOT jacked up AT ALL, and unbolt
the top
nut on the strut. The car's weight will keep the spring compressed,
just like
it always does even with the nut on.
Slowly jack the car up, both front
wheels, then back wheels, and put it on
jack stands. You will have no
problems, no springs will fly anywhere, it
will simply stop extending your
control arm once the tension is released.
Remove the struts, carefully note
how the bumpstops (replace or cut as
needed) and other parts come out (ECS
connectors and brake line retainer
too).
Assemble the new struts with
the lowering springs. If you cannot even start
the top nut, and have some
spring compressors, compress them just enough to
get it threaded on 5 or more
times. Slowly drop the car, making sure the
spring and perch are how they are
supposed to be, and tighten up the top
nut.
You really don't EVER need
the spring compressors if you have a jack, you
can always lightly jack the
one control arm up at the ball joint to slightly
compress it. Just don't
over-do it and unbalance the car. Always use jack
stands and properly balance
the car, and never rely on a jack solely,
ESPECIALLY the factory
jack.
Plop it all back together, and go get your alignment checked soon.
That's
it!
I messed with stupid a$# spring compressors for a while,
and even took the
struts to a shop to compress/recompress, before someone
showed me this trick
on my friends 94 VR4, been using it ever since. It's
easier with a friend
lifting the car (Slowly), and you watching the magic
happen. I think this is
safer and way quicker than using spring compressors
that aren't wall
mounted/professional, by far.
Nice last name btw
:)
Vinny Singh -
http://www.manualcd.com/ - Service Manuals
on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 12:06:51 +1100
> From: "joel singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
>
Subject: Team3S: replacin springs
>
> Hi,
> just wondering how
hard it is to change the springs to lowered springs >
in
> our
cars.
> I have a 92 VR4 with ECS.
> is there anything I need to take
care of while changing springs.
> Do anyone have a procedure on how to do
this.
> thanks for all your help
>
> regards,
> Joel
from downunder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 04:20:09
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Building a track car (was: Calif Spdway Mar7-9, 2003)...
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
> Are any of you
Northern guys going to come on out and play in our playground
this
time? Jim, Myself, Kurt, and Ken are all going, so already, that's
a
nice turnout. Plus, it's Ken's first time out since SP of last
year!
- --------------------------->
Yeah, we had such a great time
at SP... But it's not to be. Everyone I spoke
with can't get 4
days off in a bloc. It's tax season for ET (director of HR &
Admin)
at her firm. If she's sick, she works from a laptop in hospital.
:-)
We'll try to get South after April... can't wait to try
Buttonwillow. I'm
jammed, too. I've given myself a "3S
challenge", and I'm hoping to get help
from everyone with my decisions (which
is why I've left this reply on the main
list...).
I'm trying to put
together a street-legal track-ready 3S turbo in the next 5
weeks(!).
That includes *buying* a 1st gen TT/VR4, adding coilovers
(performance
springs, performance shocks), Big Red Brakes/Porterfields, SS
lines, race
rubber, front tower-, front- and rear- swaybars, FIPK... I'm
planning
to run stock boost or below - I don't need more HP, I just want
great
stopping power and flattened cornering.
Although I'm a "turbo
newbie", most of this stuff is suspension-related; I've
got plans for about
half my sources: Pads, SS lines and Motul from Geoff;
tower and
swaybars from 3SX Performance, FIPK and race tires locally... But
where
is the best place to get Big Reds? (Old friend Brad B seems to
have
disappeared.)
My biggest quandary is choosing springs and shocks
in a coilover setup. I
don't have a garage at home, nor space to work
on the car. I need to be able
to jack it up and make changes from
street to track and back without needing a
lift. Also, Jim said his
900lb front springs were bone-jarring on the
street - (Jim, is that the Tein
setup you're selling?) I'm guessing maybe I
should have 600lb fronts,
400lb rears? And how does installing a coilover
affect tour/sport
adjustability? Can I use a single "Vette-hard" shock
setting and just
be able to spin the coilover rings to raise/lower the car
for
street/track? And which shocks are recommended for track?
My
thinking in leaving this on the main list (instead of only the Team3S
Racers
list) is that many of us want a slightly 'tougher' car for the
street,
too. I think a number of non-racing members would be interested
in making
some of the same mods. But if we start getting too technical,
let's bring it
to the Racers list only, please.
All ideas and
suggestions are welcome. I'm looking at about a dozen different
cars
all over the country, so even (private notes with) recommendations for
turbos
for sale are welcome. Thanks to all!
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 08:02:45
-0800 (PST)
From: John Cipolletti <
cipxyzb@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Eco/Power Switch
What does this switch on my 93 Stealth ES dash do?
I
know it has something to do with power and
performance. But does
it really change things much?
I know when I cut off overdrive performance
changes
but what happens with the switch.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 10:33:24
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Building a track car
>I'm trying to put
together a street-legal track-ready 3S turbo in the next 5 weeks(!). That
includes *buying* a 1st gen TT/VR4,
Why a 1st gen? Price? Cooling? 5
speed?
adding coilovers
>(performance springs, performance shocks),
Big Red Brakes/Porterfields, SS
>lines, race rubber, front tower-, front-
and rear- swaybars, FIPK... I'm
>planning to run stock boost or
below - I don't need more HP, I just want great stopping power and flattened
cornering.
I got one (94 VR4) with all that stuff already on it*. Make me
an offer. I'll throw in the stock exhaust with all the cats so you can pass
California emissions testing.
>
>Although I'm a "turbo newbie", most
of this stuff is suspension-related; I've got plans for about half my
sources: Pads, SS lines and Motul from Geoff; tower and swaybars from 3SX
Performance, FIPK and race tires locally... But where is the best place to
get Big Reds? (Old friend Brad B seems to have disappeared.)
You
can buy the calipers for about $350 each from a Porsche parts discounter (I
found one last year, when I was going to replace my Big Reds instead of
rebuilding them). All you need then is to duplicate Brad's mounting brackets
from a piece of unobtanium.
>
>My biggest quandary is choosing
springs and shocks in a coilover setup.
Ground Control is good. Somebody
who was going to Tiens (Jim?) had a complete setup for sale here a few weeks ago
at a reasonable price.
>I don't have a garage at home, nor
space to work on the car.
How are you planning to build this car, then?
Especially in five weeks?
>I need to be able to jack it up and make
changes from street to track and back without needing a lift.
What
changes? I run mine on the street all the time. The only thing I change are the
race tires and brake pads, and I do that trackside. With Big Reds, you can
change pads in a New York minute (literally! Once the wheel is off, you can
change pads in 60 seconds per side).
>Also, Jim said his 900lb front
springs were bone-jarring on the
>street - (Jim, is that the Tein setup
you're selling?) I'm guessing maybe I >should have 600lb fronts, 400lb
rears?
I run 650 front and 350 rear Eibachs on my Ground Control system
(something like that...I'd have to look up the paperwork to get the exact
numbers). Works OK on the street, although it is a bit stiff. Not unbearably so,
though.
>And how does installing a coilover >affect tour/sport
adjustability?
It doesn't change anything until you put in
replacement shocks that don't have ECS.
>Can I use a single
"Vette-hard" shock >setting and just be able to spin the coilover rings to
raise/lower the car for
>street/track?
Yes, you can. But it
affects toe when you do that, so you have to adjust the toe, too. It's a genuine
PITA. I just leave mine alone.
>And which shocks are recommended for
track?
You have no choice: GABs are the only replacement track shock
available for a stock or a Ground Control suspension (GABs are available from
Stillen sometimes. I got the last two in the USA when I ordered mine. They may
have restocked by now). KYBs suck, or so people tell me. Worse than stock, some
say. Tiens come with their own shocks.
>
Rich/slow old poop
*94
3000GT VR4 with:
Ground Control suspension,
Eibach springs,
camber plates,
new GAB front struts,
front and rear sway bars,
Porsche Big Red calipers,
SS lines,
Motul fluid,
cryogenically
treated stock rotors,
brake cooling fans,
water injection to brakes,
Alamo intercoolers,
Stillen downpipe,
custom cat back single side
exhaust (loud!),
Blitz DSBC,
Supra fuel pump,
aftermarket boost
gauge,
Blitz BOV,
K&N,
Milli Miglia wheels w/Michelin Pilot
street tires (getting worn),
stock chromies with Yokohama 032R race tires
(two need replacing for the new season, two have one more event left).
Probably 400+ hp. 13.1 @ 105 mph without bang shifting. Might run 12s if
I knew what I was doing.
NEEDS: Motor mounts (ordered from Rockville
Mitsubishi yesterday), to have new seals put in the Big Reds, and replace ABS
relay (the $7 one, I hope).
MODS NEEDED: To get serious with this car,
it will need a roll bar, aluminum racing radiator, AFC, bigger injectors, and
bigger turbos. That will put it into Viper country.
80,000 miles. Adult
driven mostly on weekends by slow, decrepit old fart. Timing belt and water pump
replaced. New Getrag 6 speed at 60,000 miles (leaks, though). Been to drag strip
only once (just to see what it'd do). All stock parts (exhaust, downpipe,
calipers, struts, etc) go with it. Bring a truck. You can put it back to legal
emission status in an afternoon.
Photos at
www.bazillionbooks.com, scroll down to
race photo links.
Price: ?? What's something like this worth?
Why
sell it? I don't have the supplemental income to support a racing program any
more or to take this car to the next step. See MODS NEEDED above.
*sigh*
What'll I do without it? Probably put all the money into building
my 92 Talon up instead. Lots cheaper parts over there.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 12:19:04
EST
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Eco/Power Switch
The computer that controlls your automatic
transmission has to make
decisions about what gear to be in when you are
partially on the throttle,
staying at a given speed, and when you lightly
depress the throttle, or
slowly get off of it. Does it downshift with
minimal depression of the gas,
giving you more available acceleration?
Does it upshift as soon as you let
off the gas the least bit, thus,
possibly, giving you better gas mileage?
There is a ratio of how far
you have the throttle open (ie - how far down the
gas pedal is) to the speed
of the engine (RPM) that the transmissions
computer calculates to determine
these "shift points." By pressing that
button you alter them slightly,
either to the performance side (usually
staying longer in a lower gear) or
to the economic side (usually going to a
higher gear earlier).
I should add that the Over Drive (OD) button merely turns 4th gear on
and
off. If you are cruising on the highway and you press it, youll
notice that
the car downshifts to 3rd (unless youre going to fast for
3rd). This has a
similar effect, in that it keeps the car in a lower
gear, so that you can
have more power available at low speeds. The
general idea is to keep the
over drive OFF in "city" traffic, because you
wont be going fast enough to
need 4th gear; and keep it ON when youre
on the highway, for better gas
mileage. For rule of thumb - if youll
be going over 50 - put the overdrive
on.
Joe
93 RT/TT
02
WRX
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 18:26:03
-0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Building a track car (was: Calif Spdway Mar7-9, 2003)...
One of
the attractions to TEIN HA and JIC FLT-A2 is the fact that the strut
and
spring are matched up by design. I always felt mixing and
matching
springs and struts would be at best hit or miss. Why not take
advantage of
the design and engineering effort already made by the pro (I
Hope).
If your concern is for stiffness on the street, I really believe
you would
get used to it and even enjoy the confidence of the maneuverability
under
your butt. If that is too much of a concern and you find that you
simply
cannot stand the ride, special order one of the many softer springs
offered
by the company and do a direct replacement.
Bad bob
'99VR-4
w/TEIN HA
SCCA BSP Autocross - monthly
Next track event - Sebring
4/19
on 3/1/03 7:20 AM, Bob Forrest at
bf@bobforrest.com wrote:
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
>> Are any of
you Northern guys going to come on out and play in our playground
> this
time? Jim, Myself, Kurt, and Ken are all going, so already, that's
a
> nice turnout. Plus, it's Ken's first time out since SP of last
year!
> --------------------------->
>
> Yeah, we had such
a great time at SP... But it's not to be. Everyone I spoke
>
with can't get 4 days off in a bloc. It's tax season for ET (director of
HR &
> Admin) at her firm. If she's sick, she works from a
laptop in hospital. :-)
> We'll try to get South after April...
can't wait to try Buttonwillow. I'm
> jammed, too. I've given
myself a "3S challenge", and I'm hoping to get help
> from everyone with
my decisions (which is why I've left this reply on the main
>
list...).
>
> I'm trying to put together a street-legal track-ready
3S turbo in the next 5
> weeks(!). That includes *buying* a 1st gen
TT/VR4, adding coilovers
> (performance springs, performance shocks), Big
Red Brakes/Porterfields, SS
> lines, race rubber, front tower-, front- and
rear- swaybars, FIPK... I'm
> planning to run stock boost or below -
I don't need more HP, I just want great
> stopping power and flattened
cornering.
>
> Although I'm a "turbo newbie", most of this stuff is
suspension-related; I've
> got plans for about half my sources:
Pads, SS lines and Motul from Geoff;
> tower and swaybars from 3SX
Performance, FIPK and race tires locally... But
> where is the best
place to get Big Reds? (Old friend Brad B seems to have
>
disappeared.)
>
> My biggest quandary is choosing springs and
shocks in a coilover setup. I
> don't have a garage at home, nor
space to work on the car. I need to be able
> to jack it up and make
changes from street to track and back without needing a
> lift.
Also, Jim said his 900lb front springs were bone-jarring on the
> street -
(Jim, is that the Tein setup you're selling?) I'm guessing maybe I
>
should have 600lb fronts, 400lb rears? And how does installing a
coilover
> affect tour/sport adjustability? Can I use a single
"Vette-hard" shock
> setting and just be able to spin the coilover rings
to raise/lower the car for
> street/track? And which shocks are
recommended for track?
>
> My thinking in leaving this on the main
list (instead of only the Team3S
> Racers list) is that many of us want a
slightly 'tougher' car for the street,
> too. I think a number of
non-racing members would be interested in making
> some of the same
mods. But if we start getting too technical, let's bring it
> to the
Racers list only, please.
>
> All ideas and suggestions are
welcome. I'm looking at about a dozen different
> cars all over the
country, so even (private notes with) recommendations for
> turbos for
sale are welcome. Thanks to all!
>
> Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 09:35:13
-0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Sway Bar Installation Tip WAS:TEC Rear
Strut Tower Brace ...
I had the Saner bars and the 3SX adjustable control
arms on since last
September .......... also a '97 VR4. Believe me,
they need no
modification or fabrication. Yes, a bear to
install! And, man, do
those bars 'work'. Highly recommend to
those wanting improved handling
for a car driven primarily on the
street. Most cost effective
suspension upgrade with greatest
return.
Dennis -==- Philly
Dan Hyde
wrote:
>Eric
>Yep - that spacer/bushing in the pic is
indeed the culprit. The endlink
>assembly bolt presents the illusion
that it will not clear at all until you
>push (pry bar) the Saner hard
forward (toward the front) and then torque
>everything down. Still -
obviously too close in my case. I guess I must do
>some
fabricating.
>What's strange is there would seem to be little possibility
for movement
>right there - yet somehow...
>
>Thanks (good
pics!)
>Dan 97 VR4
>
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: "Gross, Erik"
><snip>
>Here's a view of the
rear LH side, where you can see the end-link from
>another angle:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Temp/RSwBEL1.jpg.
Note the
>spacer/bushing between the anti-sway bar (black) and the end
link (silver).
>What we ended up doing was to cut the spacer in half,
grind it down so it
>was flat and smooth, and reinstall the bar.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2 #93
**************************************
