Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, February 26 2003 Volume 02 : Number
090
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:58:59 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
Trevor,
Just look at the pictures and you'll be fine ;-) There is really no
instruction needed to turn a screw in or out. And you better leave it as it
is because the Blitz is very delicate on our cars because the stock valve
is still in place.
At 10:45 25.02.2003 -0500, Trevor Paciotti wrote:
>Hey, I just
received the blow off valve I ordered, and all the
>instructions are in
Japanese. Does anyone know where there are
>instructions in English? The
only thing I'm really concerned about is
>the piston adjustment
instructions. Any help would be much appreciated.
>Thanks
>
>Trevor
>91 Dodge Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 07:57:48 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
Hmmmm --- I have a Blitz blow off valve but do not have the stock valve. I
vent to the atmosphere and have had zero problems --- boost controller, gutted
precats and test pipe are the only engine mods.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
I have the same thing. Alas, mine is one of the *NOISY* BOVs. It goes
WHOOSH! so loud the corner workers ask me, "why does your car make that funny
noise?" I bought it as part of a boost controller/BOV package, not realizing it
was a rice boy BOV.
Anybody know how to shut it up?
Can I put a muffler on it?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 11:38:47 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
Rich if it is one of the new DD models yes you can put a filter on it or
even set it up to recirculate back into the intake.
Check the Blitz USA sites for details.
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:00:12 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
The kit comes with the y what leaves the stock valve in place. As we all
know, the stock valve is leaking when old and especially together with the
Blitz the behaviour can be strange. One may cap the one side of the y off
as well as the recirculating inlet. It works well with the factory
settings.
------------------------------
At 11:38 AM 2/25/03 -0500, Furman, Russell wrote:
>Rich if it is one
of the new DD models yes you can put a filter on it
>or even set it up to
recirculate back into the intake.
>
>Check the Blitz USA sites for
details.
I looked at a half-dozen sites compliments of Google, but can't find any
Blitz SuperSound BOV that looks like mine, which has like a trumpet-like end.
Mine is probably 5 years old, because I bought it from a dude two years ago, who
took it off his car, so it had probably been on there for two or more years.
It sure looks like one of those filter attachments would shut it up, if I
knew which one to order, or found a site that sold it separately. I also
can't find the Blitz USA site (the one I found sells gas cans). Know where it
is?
Does anybody out there in racer land sell Blitz parts?
Can you get me a
BOV filter or a muffler?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 with very loud Blitz BOV
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:07:02 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 11:49
AM
I looked at a half-dozen sites compliments of Google, but can't find any
Blitz SuperSound BOV that looks like mine, which has like a trumpet-like end.
Mine is probably 5 years old, because I bought it from a dude two years ago, who
took it off his car, so it had probably been on there for two or more years.
It sure looks like one of those filter attachments would shut it up, if I
knew which one to order, or found a site that sold it separately. I also
can't find the Blitz USA site (the one I found sells gas cans). Know where it
is?
Does anybody out there in racer land sell Blitz parts?
Can you get me a
BOV filter or a muffler?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 with very loud Blitz BOV
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:10:31 -0500
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
Rich, try this
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:11:44 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
Yes, it is very rice and the new ones are even chirping like a bird that is
crying for help. As already said, the DD have a filter that makes them less
noisy. I think you have the old one but you can definitely do something to
the outlet that makes it less noisy. Something like a K&N breather
filter
works well.
------------------------------
> I think you have the old one but you can definitely do something to
the
>outlet that makes it less noisy. Something like a K&N breather
filter
>works well.
You mean, just find a round carburetor air filter and clamp it on
there?
Hmmm...maybe one of those chrome air filters off an old Stromberg
two-barrel carb would fit.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:23:47 -0500
From: "Watson David M AMN 16
ACCS/DOM" <
David.Watson@GAROBI.ANG.AF.MIL>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: California Smog II program
I don't know how long you guys have been talking about this, but I received
a letter yesterday asking me to take my car to the nearest Chrysler? dealer to
get my exhaust changed out for free. Supposedly it's out of emissions
regulations for California, yet I live in Georgia. Anyone else get that
letter?
On another note...I'm deploying to the AOR for at least a few months, and I
remember reading a few posts a while back about problems with fuel hardening up
or "going stale" over a period of time. There were differing opinions when
it was discussed. Can I get an updated opinion on what to do?
Everyone I trust is deploying with me, so I don't have anyone to run my car
while I'm gone. Would I be correct in saying that the best thing to do
would be run all the fuel out of the tank? Other options, such as any
additives I could add to the fuel to keep it fresh?
Thanks in advance for the input...I know you guys will help me out.
David Watson
Airborne Missions Systems Specialist
United States Air
Force
Robins AFB, GA
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 9:06
AM
In Colorado, AWD vehicles use a "dual treadmill" for emissions tests.
However, some AWD cars are specifically exempted from this type of test because
of low clearance and low wheel/sidewall height. Among these are the Stealth TT
and 3000GT VR4. Our cars just use the "parked but revved engine" tests. We have
a web site that documents this - maybe CA has one too?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 10:30:49 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: California Smog II program
Get you some Stabil fuel stabilizer and add the appropriate amount to your
tank. I use it every year on my motorcycles and lawn mowers during the
winter.
Yes, fuel does get stale much more quickly than most people
believe...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 11:33:19 -0600
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: California Smog II program
Stabil additive does a great job. I've used it for years in mowers and
motorcycles. Pour it in the gas tank and run the car a few minutes to
let the fuel pump mix it in and circulate it through the injectors.
Red stuff in plastic bottles, find it most places that sell seasonal
equipment like mowers and lawn tractors.
Jon Paine
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 09:33:54 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Team 3S: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
If you are using the actual kit that came with the SS or DD BOV's from
blitz you can plug the pressure side of your stock BOV with the cap from a 20
oz. or 1 ltr. Coke bottle. :) Worked great for me for a long time (till I
made a recirc kit for my SS).
My SS-BOV came with both the filter-like attachment and a
"not-quite-trumpet-like" attachment. I didn't like the filter attachment
because it blocked the early release hole on the bottom of the main outlet
port. That lets a small amount of boost by earlier and helps on partial
throttle lift off. The kit I made plumbs that into the intake as
well.
- -James
95 Green VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 9:00
AM
The kit comes with the y what leaves the stock valve in place. As we
all
know, the stock valve is leaking when old and especially together with the
Blitz the behaviour can be strange. One may cap the one side of the y off
as well as the recirculating inlet. It works well with the factory
settings.
At 07:57 25.02.2003 -0800, fastmax wrote:
>Hmmmm --- I have a Blitz
blow off valve but do not have the stock
>valve. I vent to the atmosphere
and have had zero problems --- boost
>controller, gutted precats and test
pipe are the only engine
mods.
>
> Jim
Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:24:40 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Blitz Blow Off Valve Help
> (till I made a recirc kit for my SS).
Can you elaborate? Your Blitz SS-BOV does not vent to the atmosphere?
I bought one a few years ago to eliminate the honking goose that came with my
FIPK but don't care for the engine stumble it causes when letting off the gas
(presumably caused by an over-rich condition, since some of the air the ECU
meters is released to the atmosphere rather than recirculated/burned, even with
the adjustment screw tightened down all the way).
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth fluids
(trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines,
red calipers Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph G-Tech Pro:
0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354
lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 20:35:45 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OT: I wrecked my stealth
Keep in mind it was a 91 base model stealth with 125k miles on it and on
it's second tranny. I would love to have it back just like it was before
the wreck, but when you get frame damage and a collision to this degree even if
they spent a lot of $$$ on it, it would still never drive right(alignment,
steering, and safety). I only paid $2,800 for the car a little over a year
ago...
Does anyone know how insurance claims work? Like all of my medical
bills are being paid for by "Access" (Arizona State insurance). But the
other lady that caused the accident only had $30,000 liability. I've had
other people in my family tell me they've known people with less injuries get
upwards of $2-$500,000 settlement checks. Where does this money come from
if the other person's insurance coverage is only $30k???
I hope my lawyer will be able to get as much as possible and hopefully more
than $30k. If anyone knows how all this works please feel free to email me
back privately.
Thanks,
- -Erik
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Sent:
Saturday, February 22, 2003 4:55 PM
> On this line, If you bend the frame, it is totaled. Why?
> I
thought you could always fix it and totaled means that it costs more
> to
fix than to buy another.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:26:09 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OT: I wrecked my stealth
Hi Erik:
I looked at your webpage with the explanation of what happened and your
injuries. Explaining the whole personal injury system is just too much for
an email message. Suffice it to say that you need to retain a personal injury
lawyer right away. The value of your case depends on your personal injuries,
your wage loss, the permanent effects on your body and your life, as well as
your property damage. UNTIL YOU HIRE A LAWYER DO NOT TALK TO ANY INSURANCE
REPRESENTATIVE (INCLUDING YOUR OWN). DO NOT GIVE ANY STATEMENTS. GET RID OF YOUR
WEBPAGE WITH THE EXPLANATION AND PICTURES. KEEP TRACK OF EVERY PIECE OF PAPER
INVOLVED. KEEP TRACK OF EVERY NAME OF EVERY NURSE, DOCTOR, HOSPITAL, MECHANIC,
WITNESS, ETC.
You were obviously badly hurt. At this point you can be your own best
friend, or you can be your own worst enemy. Finding someone to assist you may be
hard. I do not know any good injury lawyers in Arizona. Call the president
of the Phoenix Bar Association and ask him or her who the best PI lawyer in the
area is. DO NOT - AGAIN - DO NOT - rely on a lawyer referral service. They
usually just use a rotating panel. The members may be good lawyers, or
they may just be amateurs.
Good Luck.
Andy Woll, Attorney at Law
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:38:22 -0800
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: reverse light
Hi All,
If you have experienced the electrical problems described
below, and
have found a remedy, I'd appreciate hearing from you..
Symptoms:
* The reverse light ("back-up light") on my 92 VR4
has become
intermittent. It only works about 1 in 10 times.
*
One of the instrument cluster lights comes on and stays on for days
at a
time. It is the second one from the bottom right, above the
radiator
light and below the SRS light. I think it is the washer fluid
light,
but both those tanks are full.
Best Regards,
John
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:06:02 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OT: I wrecked my stealth
I'd have to agree with Andrew here. Keep track of everything and don't make
any statements to the insurance companies. Find a good PI attorney if you want
even a snowball's chance of anything above and beyond book value of your
vehicle. Then be prepared for the long haul as these cases can take considerable
time.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Dear Friends,
I have a leak on my 6 speed tranny. The dealer (easy now, I have an
extended warranty) thinks it is leaking from the seal where the shifter linkages
enter the tranny, a part of course not available from Mitsubishi. Anybody
know a source for this seal (assuming this is a real part)? Would Kormex or
M&S recycling have something like this?
Chuck Willis
BTW
My '94 passed its transfer case recall. It has a horrendous
rotational noise from the front left wheel that only occurs when there is weight
on the car. Satan thinks it is the wheel bearing, which I am delighted to
have them (finally) replace under extended warranty.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 13:32:49 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: transaxle leak - seal where linkages enter transaxle?
Chuck,
I don't have any info on that seal, but please keep us
posted on what you find - on both of my VR-4s I had/have a tiny leak that seems
to be coming from somewhere on the upper sides or top of the tranny. I
haven't been able to isolate it yet, and since it's really small (1 drop in a
week), I haven't put too much effort into it. However it'd be nice not to
have it at all :-)
- --Erik
> I have a leak on my 6 speed tranny. The dealer (easy now, I have
an
> extended warranty) thinks it is leaking from the seal where the
> shifter linkages enter the tranny, a part of course not available
> from Mitsubishi.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:39:13 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle leak - seal where linkages enter transaxle?
Yeah, I had the car up on jack stands to change brakes and kind of looked
around. I noticed some oil streams on the outsides of the transaxle case,
but I wasn't sure whether this was just "burp up" through the vent or really
maybe even engine oil. I needed to get the car in for the wheel bearing
and transfer case recall, so I thought I'd let them take a guess.
Chuck
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 3:33 PM
Chuck,
I don't have any info on that seal, but please keep us
posted on what you find - on both of my VR-4s I had/have a tiny leak that seems
to be coming from somewhere on the upper sides or top of the tranny. I
haven't been able to isolate it yet, and since it's really small (1 drop in a
week), I haven't put too much effort into it. However it'd be nice not to
have it at all :-)
- --Erik
> I have a leak on my 6 speed tranny. The dealer (easy now, I have
an
> extended warranty) thinks it is leaking from the seal where the
> shifter linkages enter the tranny, a part of course not available
> from Mitsubishi.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:38:59 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle leak - seal where linkages enter transaxle?
I would put money on it is the same issue that the MKIV's have/had....
Right around the 5 year 90K mile mark they begin to leak from that area.
Oh before anyone asks, yes the MKIV tranny is/was manufactured by
Getrag.....
In those cases Yota has been able to get replacement seal, my suggestion
would be to figure out what part number it is (CALLING ALL PERSONS WHO HAVE
QUICK ACCESS TO CAPS) and then proceed from there. Or try going online to
the place that sells the replacement parts for our trannies (the name of the
outfit slips my mind at the moment)
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 4:33 PM
Chuck,
I don't have any info on that seal, but please keep us
posted on what you find - on both of my VR-4s I had/have a tiny leak that seems
to be coming from somewhere on the upper sides or top of the tranny. I
haven't been able to isolate it yet, and since it's really small (1 drop in a
week), I haven't put too much effort into it. However it'd be nice not to
have it at all :-)
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:48:31 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle leak - seal where linkages enter transaxle?
<<<In those cases Yota has been able to get replacement seal, my
Suggestion would be to figure out what part number it is (CALLING ALL PERSONS
WHO HAVE QUICK ACCESS TO CAPS) and then proceed from there.>>>
There is no listing in CAPS for this seal.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:51:05 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle leak - seal where linkages enter transaxle?
Well now that shoots that thought pattern to $hit, who was the place that
provided a listing of various internal parts for our trannies? They also
gave prices right on their website...
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:03:04 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ignition Technical Question
Does anyone know if/where there is a 12V ignition signal in our cars?
Specifically a signal that pulses to 12V anytime a firing event occurs? It
doesn't matter if the signal is specific to a single cylinder or has pulses
anytime any cylinder fires.
I have only found 5V signals, and I need a 12V signal. I've tried the
"Engine Speed" output of the ECU (pin58 of my '95 TT ECU), but that's a 0-5V
signal. I looked at the ECU trigger outputs to the power transistor, but
AFAIK, those are the basis for the Engine Speed output, and thus are 5V as
well.
It looks like the outputs of the power transistor (pins 11, 12, and 13)
should be 12V signals, but as I see it, they look to be 12V with pulses to 0V
when that coil fires. That *may* work for what I'm trying to do, but I'm
not sure... BTW, how hard is it to get to the power transistor? It
looks like it's just below the coils, but that's just from the diagrams
:-)
Ideas?
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:04:56 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle leak - seal where linkages enter transaxle?
However, unless I missed it, this particular seal is not listed there
either.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 4:51
PM
Well now that shoots that thought pattern to $hit, who was the place That
provided a listing of various internal parts for our trannies? They Also
gave prices right on their website...
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 23:15:27 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition Technical Question
Eric, you may better adapt your other hardware to accept 5V as this is what
the ECU gives. The power transistors are sealed and they switch the ground but
not the 12V. So you may use the switched side of one of the three coils as it
sees 12V and then is switched down to ground to get saturated. It fires then
when the transistor is closing again.
The tach signal is the one you may want to use as your reference.
> Does anyone know if/where there is a 12V ignition signal in our cars?
> Specifically a signal that pulses to 12V anytime a firing event
> occurs? It doesn't matter if the signal is specific to a single
> cylinder or has pulses anytime any cylinder fires.
>
> I
have only found 5V signals, and I need a 12V signal. I've tried the
> "Engine Speed" output of the ECU (pin58 of my '95 TT ECU), but that's
> a 0-5V signal. I looked at the ECU trigger outputs to the power
> transistor, but AFAIK, those are the basis for the Engine Speed
> output, and thus are 5V as well.
>
> It looks like the
outputs of the power transistor (pins 11, 12, and
> 13) should be 12V
signals, but as I see it, they look to be 12V with
> pulses to 0V when
that coil fires. That *may* work for what I'm
> trying to do, but
I'm not sure... BTW, how hard is it to get to the
> power
transistor? It looks like it's just below the coils, but that's
>
just from the diagrams :-)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:27:57 -0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Active Exhaust Cut-away picture
I've searched the archives and can't seem to find the
original
msg.
So, can someone repost the link to a picture of the
active exhaust
muffler that has been cut open?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn
93 VR-4 with active exhaust problems
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:05:34 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
transaxle leak - seal where linkages enter transaxle?
I pulled a 5 speed apart and don't recall any gaskets used, it's all RTV
stuff. As to the seal around the mechanical linkage I don't remember what it is,
rubber boot of some kind probably. If it's just a boot Kormex should have a
batch of used ones laying around.
> I have a leak on my 6 speed tranny. The dealer (easy now, I have
an
> extended warranty) thinks it is leaking from the seal where the
> shifter linkages enter the tranny, a part of course not available
> from Mitsubishi. Anybody know a source for this seal (assuming
this
> is a real part)? Would Kormex or M&S recycling have something
like
> this?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:11:34 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Active
Exhaust Cut-away picture
Omar
92 r/t
- -----Original Message-----
From: glenn vrfour
Sent: Tuesday,
February 25, 2003 5:28 PM
I've searched the archives and can't seem to find the
original
msg.
So, can someone repost the link to a picture of the
active exhaust
muffler that has been cut open?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn
93 VR-4 with active exhaust problems
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:37:23 -0500
From: "Trevor Paciotti" <
sam_or_i@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team 3S: Blow Off Valve Instructions in English
Hey, I just received the blow off valve I ordered, and all the instructions
are in Japanese. Does anyone know where there are instructions in English?
The only thing I'm really concerned about is the piston adjustment
instructions. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Trevor
91 Dodge Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:30:02 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ignition Technical Question
You can try it, but the signal gets pretty choppy at high RPM and your tach
might not read it right. You asked for ideas? Try some other signals too:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/labjack.html
. All these signals
were collected at the ECU except for the spark signal,
which was collected
at the coil's primary coil. If you ask me what I have on
the Y-axis, it's
voltage. Labjack goes only to 10V, so why some signals do
not reach 10V, I
do not know. That was long time ago. I used a voltage
divider to scale down
the coil signal. I do not think I scaled down anything
else with it, but I
do not remember for sure. Ahh.. memory... I am getting
old...
Philip
At 05:03 PM 2/25/2003, Gross, Erik wrote:
>Does anyone know if/where
there is a 12V ignition signal in our cars?
>Specifically a signal that
pulses to 12V anytime a firing event occurs?
>It doesn't matter if
the signal is specific to a single cylinder or has
>pulses anytime any
cylinder fires.
>
>I have only found 5V signals, and I need a 12V
signal. I've tried the
>"Engine Speed" output of the ECU (pin58 of
my '95 TT ECU), but that's a
>0-5V signal. I looked at the ECU
trigger outputs to the power
>transistor, but AFAIK, those are the basis
for the Engine Speed output,
>and thus are 5V as well.
>
>It
looks like the outputs of the power transistor (pins 11, 12, and 13)
>should be 12V signals, but as I see it, they look to be 12V with pulses
>to 0V when that coil fires. That *may* work for what I'm trying to
do,
>but I'm not sure... BTW, how hard is it to get to the power
>transistor? It looks like it's just below the coils, but that's
just
>from the diagrams
:-)
>
>Ideas?
>
>--Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:44:48 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TEC Rear Strut Tower Brace Installation Pics
Finally got the web page done:
This is an absolutely sweet brace - I'm very pleased with it. With my
IO Port Video camera mount and a normal (not wide-angle) lens, I can shoot
completely stable video, even on really rough roads. Eventually I'll be
using this bar to attach harnesses, but that's a future project. The
attention to detail and the quality of construction is, IMHO, better than then
TEC front brace, which was already pretty impressive.
This completes my current suspension plans as I now have front and rear
anti-sway bars and front and rear strut tower braces. The car is
noticeably more responsive and rotates much better than stock. It doesn't
"hop" when drifting, but rather exhibits a smooth, controllable slide that
responds well to throttle application. Unless JIC starts making a
street-oriented coil-over setup of the Tein Flex stuff is all that and a bag of
chips, I think my suspension is done, and I'm pleased with the results.
Questions/comments welcome...
flames or "that brace is too @#$#
expensive" comments to /dev/null :-)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 20:58:49 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TEC Rear Strut Tower Brace Installation Pics
Erik - Glad you are as impressed as others have been. I was there
when Chris unveiled the multi-color bars to some of us from PA and I got to try
out Chris' own front and rear bars on my own car. I tried to comment to
the list how well these were manufactured but got shot down from people saying
it was too much or "gee - this one that is bolted together is cheaper AND I bet
much stronger" so I'm glad to see some reinforcement for the TEC Performance
bars as it more than deserves it.
I think you have the "non-manual sunroof" bar so I wanted to note that his
other bar has a small ledge for stowing the manual sunroof glass when
removed
Sure the price is a bit high but a front and rear strut brace from Chris
($550 for both) as well as the appropriate anti-sway bar upgrades (around $300)
for a total of about $850 but this saves on an initial suspension setup of
stiffer springs that can easily go $1,000 (coilover type setup) so it is a
little pricey but makes a very nice and solid setup for the car and I can't wait
until I can do this to my car as well.
Kudos to Chris from TEC Performance.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:04:57 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TEC Rear Strut Tower Brace Installation Pics
Correction - I see the optional support bracket. Apologies. You
keep changing cars on me and I can't keep track if it is black, white, power
sunroof, etc. =)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[snip]
I think you have the "non-manual sunroof" bar so I wanted to note that his
other bar has a small ledge for stowing the manual sunroof glass when
removed
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 23:47:25 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TEC Rear Strut Tower Brace Installation Pics
About a week ago I installed front/rear Saner Sways. All I can say is
*holy
crap* what a difference these things made! The result was *not* a
subtle change in handling behavior - they run flat without ride comfort
degrading. I'm still grinning about these dang things and all I'm doing is
writing about em! I've had a set of Ground Control coilovers ordered and "on the
way" through what seems has been a long arduous Group Buy and I'm sort of
regretting that I did it now. I queued the purchase of these things up to
help reduce body roll before the Saner's went on and maybe I probably didn't
need them after all. (but was also looking to drop her a little for cosmetic
reasons too )
Now about the TECs - I also have a set of these ordered. I had
envisioned these for some time but moved quicker to hopefully fix what might be
an odd situation resulting from my Rear Saner Sway install. I say odd
situation because no one else has reported a problem here on our group.
On my car, the rear sway bar has dang tight clearance between the left sway
bar end link and the flange where the rear axle bolts up. The heads of the
bolts are less that 1/4 from each other. I saw that when it was going
together but the geometry back there should not permit much flex other than what
happens from compression/decompression of suspension which changes camber.
When I do a "severe throw it into a corner till she slides" left turn I can hear
the axle flange bolt heads ticking on the link bolt slightly - weird
sound. It can't get it to do it on a hard hard right hander. It's hard to
get it to happen on a left hander too but it does happen so I have to fix
this. I think I have a case of frame/strut tower flexing going on.
I'm hoping the TEC install will cure the flex?. If not, I guess I need to
get under there and see if I can reposition the sway bar to the right by a gnats
eye lash!.
Dan
Pearl White 1997 VR4
K&N; FlowMaster Catback;
Saner
Performance Sway Bars (both);
3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms;
K40 Radar;
Enkie RP01 w/Nitto NT 555 - 245/40 ZR18
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 09:28:24 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Sway Bar Installation Tip WAS:TEC Rear
Strut Tower Brace ...
Dan wrote:
> On my car, the rear sway bar has dang tight clearance
between
> the left sway bar end link and the flange where the rear
> axle bolts up. The heads of the bolts are less that 1/4
>
from each other.
<snip>
> When I do a "severe throw it into a
corner till she
> slides" left turn I can hear the axle flange bolt heads
> ticking on the link bolt slightly - weird sound.
Yikes! You don't want interference between those bolt heads :-)
I assume you're talking about the endlink being in this position:
To get your bearings, this is the rear RH wheel, and the anti-sway bar
end-link is the shiny silver thing near the red bushing. The boot you see
is connected to the driveshaft, and then you can see the mating flange going to
the hub assembly. On the other side of where you see the nuts on the
flange are bolt heads, which will just barely contact the bolt head on the
end-link if you don't do anything about it.
Here's a view of the rear LH side, where you can see the end-link from
another angle:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Temp/RSwBEL2.jpg.
Note the spacer/bushing between the anti-sway bar (black) and the end link
(silver). What we ended up doing was to cut the spacer in half, grind it down so
it was flat and smooth, and reinstall the bar. This gave me that extra
1/4" inch of clearance that Dan was talking about needing. My end links do
not interfere in any way with the bolts on the driveshaft flange, even when
doing hard cornering.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#90
**************************************
