Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, February 19 2003 Volume 02 : Number
084
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 23:22:04 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fixing paint chipping.
There is no cheap way to fix a chipped bumper. Painting it requires a paint
with a flex agent, which last time I checked, cannot be put in an aerosol
can.
Paint chipping is fixed with touch-up paint + sanding + polishing.
Philip
At 04:53 PM 2/17/2003, Planet wrote:
>I was wondering if someone
could tell me how to fix paint chipping,
>rusting etc, and maybe some
products to use. Previous owner of my car
>had it towed once, using
straps......so the bumper flexed in when it
>was lifted and the paint
chipped off. I have quite a large section on
>the back without paint. I
was wondering how I could make this look
>better or fix it at LOW cost. I
have almost no money to do this but
>getting tired of looking at it. Also
I noticed lots of paint chips on
>the hood and front from
rocks.
>
>Any tips / ideas.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 23:02:37 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Team3S:
difference in rear Valve Cover
Is there a difference between the 91-93 and 94-99 rear valve cover on the
VR4/TT?
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:24:53 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost and ARC-2 problems!
>From your A/F readings, it sounds like the fuel provided to the
cylinders is
very low. Yes I know this is obvious, but bear with me. If you
are using
stock turbos, stock fuel pump, and stock injectors, this is a rare
occurrence
even at higher boost levels *IF* all components are working
properly. A fuel
pressure gauge can be very helpful in situations like
this.
If pressure is good to the rails and you are still running lean then the
problem could be clogged injectors. If fuel pressure is below spec then
suspect the fuel filter, low output from the pump, or a bad fuel pressure
regulator. If pressure and the injectors are good then suspect the ECU is
simply using the wrong injector activation time for the real airflow to the
engine (bad sensor input or bad ECU).
The very first thing I would do is either disconnect the ARC2 (this should
be
easy if you thought ahead when splicing it in) or get the engine running
with
the ARC2. You have to triple check that all ARC2 harness connections
and ECU
terminal taps are correct.
Then I would be certain that the battery and alternator are OK. With the
engine off, voltage across the battery terminals should be over 12 with a
fully charged battery (12.6-12.8 is good). With the engine running and
alternator working properly, voltage across the battery terminals should be
over 13 (13.5-14.5 is good).
Then I would check the voltage to the fuel pump (it makes no difference if
stock or aftermarket for the moment). The engine must be cranking or running
for current to be supplied to the fuel pump (except if jumping the test
connector to +12V battery).
Low voltage to the pump will reduce its output. With a stock pump this can
be
dangerous. The stock pump with full system voltage (13+ volts) should
have no
problem with stock injectors and stock turbos. Even if voltage to
the stock
pump is only 12 there should be no severe undersupply of fuel with
stock
injectors and turbos. However, if voltage drops to about 10 with the
stock
pump you will probably get the "lean" (less than 13:1 A/F in this
case)
mixtures you observed at high boost. With a Supra pump and 10 volts,
you
should be OK with stock injectors.
Note that if the crank angle sensor (CAS) is disconnected from the ECU or
not
emitting a good signal, the ECU will not supply voltage to the fuel pump
or
the coils.
If all this checks out, then you will have to start investigating the
other "essentials" - valve timing (belt), ignition timing (coils,
transistors, plugs, wires), compression (rings, valves, pistons).
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003
20:55:58 +0000
From: "gareth hannah" <
alcoholika_02@hotmail.com>
Hi all!
just a few questions! I have a 92 rt/tt and I had installed a
Greddy
profec-b , and my air/fuel, at wot, begins to get jittery and
flutters
between stoich and rich, and bogs heavily!! and I do mean BOGG! at
14.5
psi. and fuel pressure around 55 or so. well I bought a ARC-2 hopefully
trying to fix the problem of running lean, cause that's what I think its
doing! and I had installed it correctly and had the settings correctly on
the controller, and I even called GT Pro to make sure I did everything
right. well my car has never started with the ARC on. Not even an idle. I
tried asking GT Pro what might be wrong and they told me that they've never
heard or a car not starting with it on. I'm now just asking the list to see
if anyone has any ideas on why it might be doing this! cause I cant really
solve one problem unless I can do a process of elimination. I also have a
supra fuel pump. Do you think the voltage coming from the pump might be too
low? I'm all out of ideas, or it might even be my ecu. dunno, but any help
is
grateful!!
Thanx
gareth
------------------------------
you just want to make sure that the vacuum lines are properly clamped to
the connectors. there is enough pressure to pop the lines off, which can result
in overboosting.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 5:23 PM
> So does the type of line (rubber vs. metal) effect
> the action
kinda like brake lines?
Not really. The pressure range is low enough where it isn't much of a
factor
(-19 in/hg of vacuum to 14-30psi of boost) where small hose expansion
won't
make much difference. In brake applications it is on the order
of hundreds of
psi. Any typical vacuum hose should work fine - I
personally recommend "real"
screw clamps on all the vacuum hoses if you ever
want to run more than 19 psi
of boost for some reason (drag racing with race
fuel).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
used Stillen crossdrilled for several years on three cars. Gave up on them
a year or so ago and went to Porterfield crossdrilled ala Geoff. just purchased
my first set of SOLID cryo front rotors, not yet on the car.
Chuck Willis
BTW What kind of driving are you doing? If it's all street it doesn't
much matter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric
[mailto:griz600cc@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 7:29 PM
This seems to be a hot debated topic. Some people think they are great,
some people think they're not so great. I just got a set of Stillen cross
drilled rotors for the front and rear and will be trying them out for the first
time. Any advice from those of you who have used them?
(I also ordered the steel braided brake lines, new pads and
calipers.)
------------------------------
I drove my first gen VR4 at the track for three seasons with stock calipers
and stock-sized rotors. I was anal about cleaning and turning the rotors.
I went through several rotors, but never had one break.
Same experience with my second gen VR4, now in its third season.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2003 3:48
PM
> 1st gen will be more likely..as they're smaller and will suffer higher
> load and heat stress.
Wouldn't that make 1st gen rotors fail more than 2nd gen? If this is
so, why haven't I seen any 1st gen rotors disintegrate like the 2nd gen?
Is it just that the 1st gen rotors are not reported as much?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 12:39:08 -0600
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: engine mount & clutch...and one question
Well, I finally did got my 60k service done and checked out what was going
on with the rattling noise and the my really "stiff" clutch.
With the rattling noise, many people in this forum told me that it
was either wheel bearings or transaxle but I found out that it was the front
engine mount and not the wheel bearings or transaxle. From my
understanding, there are 3 engine mounts and the guy told me that it was only
the front engine mount that has collapsed. In order for me to replace it,
he said it would cost me something like $250 which is like the cost of new 3
engine mounts. I am thinking of doing this myself(at least, try to) if
this is relatively easy to do.
As far as my clutch is
concerned, the mechanic tells me that it's the worn out pressure plate and in
order to replace it, he has to change the whole thing which will cost me 1200
something dollars. I know that the new clutch sets cost something around
$400-600 so I think I'm just going to buy the parts myself and have some
mechanics change it.
For anybody who is looking to do a 60k
service near Dallas area, I did mine at Don Herring Mitsubish. The service
was pretty good and the guys seemed to know what they are doing.
Their
60k service is divided into two part and I just did the first part which does
not include replacing timing belt tensioners and water pump.(second part costs
something around $800 if I remember correctly)
Beside everything I
talked about so far, I have a question about this 'ticking' noise. I hear
this noise whenever I get out from a car after driving it for a while(either
long or short period of time). It seems to be coming out from the bottom
of the car but I hear it very clearly on the driver side. I can hear it on
the passenger side too but it's not as loud. I'm not sure why I'm hearing this
'ticking' sound and I would appreciate it very much if anybody can give me even
a vague idea of what's causing this noise.
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 13:29:28 -0600
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: engine mount & clutch...and one question
The ticking noise is after you shut the car off?
If so, it is the
exhaust system cooling off. The metal expands with heat and them contracts
when cooling. Nothing to worry about.
Rich
> Beside everything I talked about so far, I have a question about this
> 'ticking' noise. I hear this noise whenever I get out from a car
> after driving it for a while(either long or short period of
time). It
> seems to be coming out from the bottom of the car but I
hear it very
> clearly on the driver side. I can hear it on the
passenger side too
> but it's not as loud.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 17:07:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Castawaykev <
castawaykev@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: lost my power steering
The power steering is gone and the fluid is also
history. When I
add fluid it runs out somewhere...??
For a few minutes I get my ps back so I
know the pump
still works. I need to replace something. Not sure
of
what. I can see where a little cable/hose isn't
attached...it is
near impossible to reach. I may
just drop it off tomorrow at the
Chrysler dealer for
them to find out what is actually broke. That way
I
can order the part after the fact and get someone else
to do the labor
as I am no mechanic plus I don't have
a garage and the weather is too cold
right now to be
working on the car. any ideas of what might have
gone?
I own a 92 Stealth ES.
Kev
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 16:46:49 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine mount & clutch...and one question
$200 - $250 labor plus the cost of a clutch is all you should pay to have
the clutch swapped out.
Motor mounts cost about $85 each, and are not very hard at all to
replace. Especially the front and rear lower mounts... they don't
support the weight of the motor really, more of a torque roll stopper than
anything... Yes, there are 3 motor mounts and one tranny mount...
A clutch is a 4 hour job by any professional... It can really be done
in about 2.5 hours, but 4 is reasonable... At $65/ hour shop rate, we are at
$260... The absolute most I would pay...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lim, Yong H SPC
Sent: Tuesday,
February 18, 2003 12:39 PM
Well, I finally did got my 60k service done and checked out what was going
on with the rattling noise and the my really "stiff" clutch.
With the rattling noise, many people in this forum told me that it
was either wheel bearings or transaxle but I found out that it was the front
engine mount and not the wheel bearings or transaxle. From my
understanding, there are 3 engine mounts and the guy told me that it was only
the front engine mount that has collapsed. In order for me to replace it,
he said it would cost me something like $250 which is like the cost of new 3
engine mounts. I am thinking of doing this myself(at least, try to) if
this is relatively easy to do.
As far as my clutch is
concerned, the mechanic tells me that it's the worn out pressure plate and in
order to replace it, he has to change the whole thing which will cost me 1200
something dollars. I know that the new clutch sets cost something around
$400-600 so I think I'm just going to buy the parts myself and have some
mechanics change it.
For anybody who is looking to do a 60k
service near Dallas area, I did mine at Don Herring Mitsubish. The service
was pretty good and the guys seemed to know what they are doing.
Their
60k service is divided into two part and I just did the first part which does
not include replacing timing belt tensioners and water pump.(second part costs
something around $800 if I remember correctly)
Beside everything I
talked about so far, I have a question about this 'ticking' noise. I hear
this noise whenever I get out from a car after driving it for a while(either
long or short period of time). It seems to be coming out from the bottom
of the car but I hear it very clearly on the driver side. I can hear it on
the passenger side too but it's not as loud. I'm not sure why I'm hearing this
'ticking' sound and I would appreciate it very much if anybody can give me even
a vague idea of what's causing this noise.
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 17:57:17 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: lost
my power steering
Yep, suffering the same problem here too. Turns out that my powersteering
rack is shot. There's seals on the rack that fail or something, and when you
fill up your reservoir, it'll leak like a sieve, apparently it's not too
uncommon. Don't buy your rack from the dealer, one quoted me at $2400!! I had to
laugh at the guy. The remanufactured ones are way better, so don't buy OEM and
don't buy used. You can get a reman from Autozone for about $240 if I remember
correctly. As usual, labor for our cars is a bit more than other cars, simply
because they're a bit harder to work on apparently. Hope that
helps...
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: Castawaykev
[mailto:castawaykev@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 4:07 PM
The power steering is gone and the fluid is also
history. When I
add fluid it runs out somewhere...??
For a few minutes I get my ps back so I
know the pump
still works. I need to replace something. Not sure
of
what. I can see where a little cable/hose isn't
attached...it is
near impossible to reach. I may
just drop it off tomorrow at the
Chrysler dealer for
them to find out what is actually broke. That way
I
can order the part after the fact and get someone else
to do the labor
as I am no mechanic plus I don't have
a garage and the weather is too cold
right now to be
working on the car. any ideas of what might have
gone?
I own a 92 Stealth ES.
Kev
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 23:56:47 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Just installed my S-AFC
Took about 5 hours total, had some major problems, when I first hooked it
up and turned the car to on, the buttons lit up but I had absolutely nothing on
the display!! Went back through, checked every wire, turns out the 2nd ground
wire wasn't making a connection. Fixed it and the car was able to start and run!
Still have it set at 0% correction across the board since I have stock injectors
in. I was just wondering if there was anything I could do with it while still
having stock injectors to get a little more power safely? I'm waiting until I
get my datalogger and EGT set up before I put in my bigger injectors. Donald
Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#84
**************************************