Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, February 17
2003 Volume 02 : Number 083
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 17:27:19 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Steering issues
Hey all,
I'm starting to get a little worried here... The steering on my car
is getting rather funky of late. First - if I'm driving along a continuous curve
(like on a highway), the car moves like I'm moving the steering wheel back and
forth, while the wheel itself is perfectly still. Next on the list is the fact
that I can be driving straight, and all of a sudden the steering wheel will want
to turn one way or the other. If I keep it still, it'll drive the direction it's
supposed to, but if I let go of the wheel, it'll jerk and pull hard. This just
comes and goes... (and doesn't seem to be related to the road conditions)
That's coupled with the fact that there doesn't seem to be a correlation
between the position of the steering wheel and the car driving straight. It'll
just change from drive to drive - one time to drive straight the wheel will be
centered, another time it'll be a little to the right, another time a little to
the left, etc...
Any ideas?
TIA,
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 20:22:58 -0500
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri"
<
cerri@contractor.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire pressure on 245/45zr17 non-turbo
Just moved to these on my 92 auto.
Nothing in the manual, anyone know what's best?
Thx
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 21:24:36 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Steering issues
> The steering on my car is getting rather
> funky of late. First
- if I'm driving along a
> continuous curve (like on a highway),
>
the car moves like I'm moving the
> steering wheel back and forth, while
the
> wheel itself is perfectly still. <snip>
Check all the suspension linkages (struts, control arms, tie rods, ball
joints, bushings, etc.). Check the torque of your wheels as well (maybe
some lugs have come loose?).
Not good. Don't drive it until you find the problem and correct
it.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 19:46:56 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Steering issues
Check the bearings at the top of the struts --- funny things happen when
those are bad. Also check the camber adjustment bolts on the strut. Jack up the
front of the car, grab the wheel a the 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock position and see
if there is any movement in the wheel --- you might need a prybar to get enough
force.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Sent: Sunday, February
16, 2003 2:27 PM
> Hey all,
>
> I'm starting to get a little worried here...
The steering on my car is
> getting rather funky of late. First - if I'm
driving along a
> continuous curve (like on a highway), the car moves
like I'm moving
> the steering wheel back and forth, while the wheel
itself is perfectly
> still. Next on the list is the fact that I can be
driving straight,
> and all of a sudden the steering wheel will want to
turn one way or
> the other. If I keep it still, it'll drive the
direction it's supposed
> to, but if I let go of the wheel, it'll jerk
and pull hard. This just
> comes and goes... (and doesn't seem to be
related to the road
> conditions)
>
> That's coupled with the
fact that there doesn't seem to be a
> correlation between the position
of the steering wheel and the car
> driving straight. It'll just change
from drive to drive - one time to
> drive straight the wheel will be
centered, another time it'll be a
> little to the right, another time a
little to the left, etc...
>
> Any ideas?
> TIA,
>
> Alex
> '95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 23:13:02 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Steering issues
I had similar issues with my steering on my '91 TT before my rebuild
project. After disassembling the rack and putting new seals into it, it
was obvious to me that the issues that you are describing are LIKELY caused by
the seals (and there are a BUNCH of them) in the steering rack starting to
leak/fail. It's really not that difficult to rebuild the rack rather than
replace it with a new (and HIGHLY EXPENSIVE) or salvaged (unknown condition)
one. Mitsu sells a seal kit for the steering rack, unfortunately, I don't
remember how much it was. I would start with this step because it would
eliminate the rack as the potential problem, then you can move on to the other
issues that others have recommended. The service manual describes the
process for re-building the steering rack pretty well.
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 23:24:27 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire pressure on 245/45zr17 non-turbo
Recommended is the same as stock - 32 front, 29 rear, according to
Mitsu... I would run 35/32, maybe 38/35 if you don't mind the slightly
rougher ride... Makes the steering a lil more crisp, and will give you
slightly better mileage and treadwear...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andre and Sylvia Cerri
Sent:
Sunday, February 16, 2003 7:23 PM
Just moved to these on my 92 auto.
Nothing in the manual, anyone know what's best?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 04:13:12 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire pressure on 245/45zr17 non-turbo
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri" <
cerri@contractor.net>
> Just
moved to these on my 92 auto.
> Nothing in the manual, anyone know what's
best?
- ---------------------------->
You really have to judge what's best, based on 'what' tires, 'where' and
'how' you drive, and your own tests... But here's a mini-primer for street
tires:
There are guidelines suggested by car companies and tire companies, both of
which are self-serving, and mostly bad information-- The car door on
US-spec 3S models says to inflate to 32F/29R, and that's so the car feels soft
and comfy like most Americans like. Also, a softer suspension "jiggles"
the car less (so things shake loose less frequently). But that setting is
neither the safest nor the best-handling inflation setting. Same for
what's on the side of the tire - the tire manufacturer's recommended inflation
is usually around 32psi, but the setting they say is the "maximum inflation"
(usually 36-39psi) is closer to what you want, since our cars are so
heavy. A lower inflation wears out a tire more quickly, because of
increased rolling friction and the heat that accompanies it. And it costs
you in both handling performance and gas mileage as well. Remember that
the number one cause of tire failure is from underinflation... Use the
*lowest* inflation that will give you good handling, and no less! And the
only way you can determine that is by testing. You won't know how well your car
can handle at 40psi until you try it!
[Remember Ford SUVs with Firestones? Ford recognized that at the
tire's 'standard recommended inflation' (32psi) their car was unstable, since it
sat too high and rolled over a lot. So Ford recommended that owners inflate
their tires 10 psi LESS, to lower the center of gravity. Firestone,
realizing the weight of the Ford SUV, recommended that to take all that weight
owners should inflate the tires 10 psi MORE than stock, or 42psi - or else the
tires would blow out. The owners who listened to Ford had blowouts, and
rollovers. And many people died.]
Please remember that for every added stress your car's tires might
encounter, you must ADD inflation!!! If you are carrying an heavy load, or
heavy people, your car will feel like it's wallowing. The tires cannot
support the load, and they must be pumped up. Similarly (and you can find
this in most owners' manuals, including ours) if you regularly run your car at
highway speeds, you should inflate 4-6psi *more* than the 'recommended'
inflation. (Remember, too, that underinflated tires hydroplane much
more. Pump yours way up (+10
psi) if you do lots of wet driving through
standing water...)
Since almost all of us drive on highways, that means that cold inflation
should be 36F/33R, at the very minimum. For those of us in the Western US,
Europe and anywhere that you find high-speed roadways, even higher inflations
are appropriate. (We have 70mph limits in CA - most people drive at 90 and
pass at over 100). This is also true for those of us who run street tires
at the track. By testing my street tires, I found my best inflation for my
Nittos was 40F/34R around town, 43F/37R at the track; with my Bridgestones, I
run 42F/36R in town and 46F/40R at the track. My race tires, Toyo Proxes
RA-1's have more rigid walls than street tires, and I only run them at 42F/36R
at the track, determined by testing and by pyrometer; on the street, I keep them
at 36F/30R. But each tire/wheel combo is different, and you should
experiment with what "feels" best to you. {Please note that Andre and I
drive FWD models, where a 6psi Front-to-Rear spread is appropriate. For
AWD, a 4 psi difference is suggested.}
Now we don't want a discussion that goes on for days about this,
*especially* from the AWD folks. Those of us who have the underpowered FWD
models have to squeeze every bit of efficiency and speed that's possible from
our cars. Those of you turbo types whom have plenty of power, won't even *know*
that your car can handle even better at an optimum inflation. Your cars
are forgiving in steering because of AWD, and you can overpower even an
underinflated tire with brute torque. So unless you have *tried* and
*decided* (based on your own testing) that something else works better, let's
not get into a few dozen "me too" replies, either "for" or "against" this
post-- this is what works for *these* tires which I've used on *my*
lowered FWD with suspension mods-- and I "drive it like I stole it"
wherever I am. If you drive like a granny, you will probably be happiest at
32/29. And you'll never know the difference anyway. :-)
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 20:55:58 +0000
From: "gareth hannah" <
alcoholika_02@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost and ARC-2 problems!
Hi all!
just a few questions! I have a 92 rt/tt and I had installed a
Greddy
profec-b , and my air/fuel, at wot, begins to get jittery and
flutters
between stoich and rich, and bogs heavily!! and I do mean BOGG! at
14.5
psi. and fuel pressure around 55 or so. well I bought a ARC-2 hopefully
trying to fix the problem of running lean, cause that's what I think its
doing! and I had installed it correctly and had the settings correctly on
the controller, and I even called GT Pro to make sure I did everything
right. well my car has never started with the ARC on. Not even an idle. I
tried asking Gtpro what might be wrong and they told me that they've never
heard or a car not starting with it on. I'm now just asking the list to see
if anyone has any ideas on why it might be doing this! cause I cant really
solve one problem unless I can do a process of elimination. I also have a
supra fuel pump. Do you think the voltage coming from the pump might be too
low? I'm all out of ideas, or it might even be my ecu. dunno, but any help
is
grateful!!
Thanx
gareth
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 16:53:57 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Fixing paint chipping.
I was wondering if someone could tell me how to fix paint chipping, rusting
etc, and maybe some products to use. Previous owner of my car had it towed once,
using straps......so the bumper flexed in when it was lifted and the paint
chipped off. I have quite a large section on the back without paint. I was
wondering how I could make this look better or fix it at LOW cost. I have almost
no money to do this but getting tired of looking at it. Also I noticed lots of
paint chips on the hood and front from rocks.
Any tips / ideas.
Thanks
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 14:01:16 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost and ARC-2 problems!
> Hi all!
> just a few questions! ---snip--- Do you think the
voltage coming from
> the pump might be too low? I'm all out of ideas, or
it might even be
> my ecu. dunno, but any help is grateful!! Thanx
gareth
- ----------------------->
Here's the first thing to eliminate-- Have you checked your battery
lately? Almost all diagnoses for erratic behavior in all the manuals suggest
that you first make sure you have a strong, full battery, and that you check all
your connections for corrosion, or loose wires, etc...
There are also all kinds of diagrams & info in the STIM (Stealth
Technical Information Manual) about diagnostics... It's for the '91
Stealth, but it applies to all 1st gen 3S, '91-'93... Find it in the
Team3S FAQ Pages under Basics - Reference...
Good luck!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 23:05:34 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost and ARC-2 problems!
You probably have installed the ARC wrong, like connecting the wrong wires.
Setting the ARCII to -2 at the Low should at least fire her up. Fix first the
one thing before the other.
> Hi all!
> just a few questions! I have a 92 rt/tt and I had
installed a Greddy
> profec-b , and my air/fuel, at wot, begins to get
jittery and flutters
> between stoich and rich, and bogs heavily!! and I
do mean BOGG! at
> 14.5 psi. and fuel pressure around 55 or so. well I
bought a ARC-2
> hopefully trying to fix the problem of running lean,
cause that's what
> I think its doing! and I had installed it correctly
and had the
> settings correctly on the controller, and I even called GT
Pro to make
> sure I did everything right. well my car has never started
with the
> ARC on. Not even an idle. I tried asking Gtpro what might be
wrong and
> they told me that they've never heard or a car not starting
with it
> on. I'm now just asking the list to see if anyone has any ideas
on why
> it might be doing this! cause I cant really solve one problem
unless I
> can do a process of elimination. I also have a supra fuel
pump. Do you
> think the voltage coming from the pump might be too low?
I'm all out
> of ideas, or it might even be my ecu. dunno, but any help
is
> grateful!!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 14:11:53 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fixing paint chipping.
> I was wondering if someone could tell me how to fix paint chipping,
> rusting
etc, and maybe some products to use. Previous owner of my
car had it towed once, using straps......so the bumper flexed in when it was
lifted and the paint chipped off. I have quite a large section on the back
without paint. I was wondering how I could make this look better or fix it at
LOW cost. I have almost no money to do this but getting tired of looking at it.
Also I noticed lots of paint chips on the hood and front from rocks.
> Any
tips / ideas.
> Thanks
> Jay
- ------------------------>
There's an entire "how-to" section about paint chip repairs in the Team3S
FAQ Pages. Look in the section on "Cosmetics".
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm
- --Forrest
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#83
**************************************