Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, February 16
2003 Volume 02 : Number 082
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Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 15:19:18 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manual Boost controllers
I don't think so; not nearly as much pressure.
BTW, my experiences with manual ball-and-spring style boost controllers has
been nothing but stellar. Fastest possible spool, relatively small initial
spike, and dead steady boost control thereafter. There's no way I'd ever
spend $400 on an EBC when manuals work so very well.
- - Brian
> So does the type of line (rubber vs metal) effect the action kinda
> like brake lines?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 23:22:46 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Manual Boost controllers
> So does the type of line (rubber vs metal) effect
> the action
kinda like brake lines?
Not really. The pressure range is low enough where it isn't much of a
factor
(-19 in/hg of vacuum to 14-30psi of boost) where small hose expansion
won't
make much difference. In brake applications it is on the order
of hundreds of
psi. Any typical vacuum hose should work fine - I
personally recommend "real"
screw clamps on all the vacuum hoses if you ever
want to run more than 19 psi
of boost for some reason (drag racing with race
fuel).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 18:17:51 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Manual Boost controllers
You are correct Matt... In fact that's one of my points about the
MBC's... I have (in my Talon) a whole 2.5 feet of hosing... to go to
the BOV, the wastegate actuator and the intake manifold with one tee in the
middle. Very efficient design too.
- -Cody
> I have been reading this discussion since it's introduction... I
have
> a question - who uses a real good manual boost controller on their
> VR4's???
I'm using a Hallman boost controller on my car. It works really well,
spools the turbos quick and doesn't overshoot the boost target. The main
key is to use a restriction-style controller instead of a bleeder-style.
The Joe-P is practically a clone of the Hallman design. The other things
you should do is try very hard to reduce the amount of hose in the boost control
system. Make the lines as short as possible to reduce response time of the
wastegates to the controller sending pressure. Also, when switching to any
aftermarket boost controller, the stock boost solenoid and its lines should be
removed to prevent spiking.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 20:29:11 -0500
From: Eric <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
This seems to be a hot debated topic. Some people think they are great,
some people think they're not so great. I just got a set of Stillen cross
drilled rotors for the front and rear and will be trying them out for the first
time. Any advice from those of you who have used them?
(I also ordered the steel braided brake lines, new pads and
calipers.)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 19:50:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
Don't make friends with them.
They wont be around long.
Seems to be a common thread with Stillen rotors.
On Fri, 14 Feb 2003, Eric wrote:
> This seems to be a hot debated topic. Some people think they are
> great, some people think they're not so great. I just got a set of
> Stillen cross drilled rotors for the front and rear and will be trying
> them out for the first time. Any advice from those of you who have
> used them?
>
> (I also ordered the steel braided brake
lines, new pads and calipers.)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 17:58:14 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cross Drilled Rotors
Depends on what you plan on doing with them, they're probably OK for street
use --- they look cool on the car. Racer types don't like them because of their
tendency to crack.
> This seems to be a hot debated topic. Some people think they are
> great, some people think they're not so great. I just got a set of
> Stillen cross drilled rotors for the front and rear and will be trying
> them out for the first time. Any advice from those of you who have
> used them?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 21:08:37 -0500
From: "MSamuels" <
msamuels@attbi.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
I have a set of Stillen cross drilled rotors and even went so far as to
send them to Porterfield for cryo treatment - they still warp!! Although not as
bad as before the cryo. I have a new set of Porterfield rotors (cryo
treated) that I plan to try. I am also planning to try to duct some air
into the brake area when I change out the rotors.
I have 16 inch chrome wheels and cannot fit the big brake kits.
Mark
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric
Sent: Friday, February 14,
2003 8:29 PM
This seems to be a hot debated topic. Some people think they are great,
some people think they're not so great. I just got a set of Stillen cross
drilled rotors for the front and rear and will be trying them out for the first
time. Any advice from those of you who have used them?
(I also ordered the steel braided brake lines, new pads and
calipers.)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 20:40:50 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
Mark:
Did I sell them to you?
if not..lemme know next time, you'll pay less. :)
On Fri, 14 Feb 2003, MSamuels wrote:
> I have a set of Stillen cross drilled rotors and even went so far as
> to send them to Porterfield for cryo treatment - they still warp!!
> Although not as bad as before the cryo. I have a new set of
> Porterfield rotors (cryo treated) that I plan to try. I am also
> planning to try to duct some air into the brake area when I change out
> the rotors.
>
> I have 16 inch chrome wheels and cannot
fit the big brake kits.
>
> Mark
------------------------------
At 08:29 PM 2/14/03 -0500, Eric wrote:
>This seems to be a hot
debated topic. Some people think they are great,
>some people think
they're not so great. I just got a set of Stillen
>cross drilled rotors
for the front and rear and will be trying them out
>for the first time.
Any advice from those of you who have used them?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 20:49:41 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
I noticed that the link that you give and the pictures on the Team3S site
are both of 2nd gen brake rotors. Have any 1st gen brake rotors broken
like this?
It looks like the 1st gen brake rotors are more firmly attached to the hub.
No space between the hub and the rotor surface. Just my observation.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
>I noticed that the link that you give and the pictures on the Team3S
>site are both of 2nd gen brake rotors. Have any 1st gen brake
rotors
>broken like this?
The only four rotors that I know that actually broke are Oskar's, my
PowerSlots (2), and one stock rotor that I wore down too far. All are 2nd gens.
OTOH, I don't think it's possible to abuse 1st gen rotors like that because
the smaller pads fade long before the rotor breaks and you can't install bigger
calipers with the smaller rotors. Therefore, 1st gen rotors don't get abused as
much as 2nd gens.
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:14:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Saitei Man <
saiteiman@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FOR SALE - HKS VPC & more
Hi,
I have HKS VPC for sale complete with stock injector
and 550cc
injector rom.
Greddy Profec A boost controller.
HKS turbo
timer type-1 with '94~up harness.
Brand new Iridium IK22 plugs
set.
HKS dual intake - replaces stock air box.
Brand new
Bozz speed wing extension. Great working
condition.
Send me a
private email if interest it.
thanks
Jimmy T.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 03:24:43 -0500
From: "Brian" <
vze49hff@verizon.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Lots of gas mixing with oil
Hello, everyone! Hopefully somebody can help me out.
My cars ticking
seemed louder than usual, then soon after I noticed it the oil light started
flashing. I checked out the oil and it looks like a mochachino and smells like
gas! We were thinking that It's probably a bad injector. The oil pressure is
only around 25 when idling cold at 1800 RPM. Could someone please tell me what
the proper oil pressure is? And what a good injector and fuel pump pressure is
too? Any help will be most appreciated! We're going to try fixing it
tomorrow, but we don't know what the proper pressures should be- Please
help,
Thanks guys - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 12:09:31 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Weird Whine from Drivetrain
Patrick,
I have a '91 VR4 with 99K miles. This car has had a whine from the front
diff
ever since I bought the it at about 67K miles. It is exactly like you
describe - only under accel and a bit louder than engine noise.
I live in Wichita as well. You are welcome to drop by and take a spin in my
car for comparison. I'm in the book, give me a call. Also I know of another
'94 TT that you might drive.
Paul Klusman
'91 VR4 almost completely 100% stock except for the Whiny
diff mod Also in Wichita, KS
<< Can anyone confirm my suspicion? or maybe point me in the right
direction for a fix or what to look at if my suspicion is way
off?
Thanks guys,
Patrick
Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 58k miles, Open Air
Intake
Wichita, KS >>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 13:42:24 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
1st gen will be more likely..as they're smaller and will suffer higher load
and heat stress.
On Fri, 14 Feb 2003, dakken wrote:
> > I don't want to scare you or anything, but go to
> >
http://www.mn3s.org/brainard-racing99.html>
> to see the tale of a broken Stillen rotor.
>
> I noticed that
the link that you give and the pictures on the Team3S
> site are both of
2nd gen brake rotors. Have any 1st gen brake rotors
> broken like
this?
>
> It looks like the 1st gen brake rotors are more firmly
attached to the
> hub. No space between the hub and the rotor
surface. Just my
> observation.
>
> Doug
> 92
Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 13:43:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
Fade is a pad issue, you still get the higher temps FASTER..which is what
the stress really is.
> >I noticed that the link that you give and the pictures on the
Team3S
> >site are both of 2nd gen brake rotors. Have any 1st
gen brake rotors
> >broken like this?
> >
> The only
four rotors that I know that actually broke are Oskar's, my
> PowerSlots
(2), and one stock rotor that I wore down too far. All are
> 2nd
gens.
>
> OTOH, I don't think it's possible to abuse 1st gen rotors
like that
> because the smaller pads fade long before the rotor breaks
and you
> can't install bigger calipers with the smaller rotors.
Therefore, 1st
> gen rotors don't get abused as much as 2nd gens.
>
> Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 13:47:32 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
> 1st gen will be more likely..as they're smaller and will suffer higher
> load and heat stress.
Wouldn't that make 1st gen rotors fail more than 2nd gen? If this is
so, why haven't I seen any 1st gen rotors disintegrate like the 2nd gen?
Is it just that the 1st gen rotors are not reported as much?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 16:28:52 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cross Drilled Rotors
> > 1st gen will be more likely..as they're smaller and will suffer
higher
> > load and heat stress.
>
> Wouldn't that make
1st gen rotors fail more than 2nd gen? If this is
> so, why haven't
I seen any 1st gen rotors disintegrate like the 2nd
> gen? Is it
just that the 1st gen rotors are not reported as much?
- ---
IMHO, I think
its just a statistical anomaly that only 2nd gen'ers have had the issue, as 1st
gen owners are much less likely to do the types of things the 2nd G people can
get away with without a complete upgrade.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 08:35:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Downpipe for a SOHC vs. DOHC
hi,
right now I'm working on putting a DOHC engine in my
base model(SOHC)
Stealth. Are the downpipes the same
for the DOHC and the SOHC ?
If anyone has swapped a
DOHC engine with their SOHC engine please email
me
privately, I have more questions. Thank you
Andrew
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#82
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