Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, February 12 2003 Volume 02 : Number
079
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 14:33:30 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
I'm not sure I agree with this statement. From what I've read, intake
plenums like what we have will tend to get more air in the runners at the END of
the plenum. In order for air (pressure) distribution to be equal, there
needs to be a tapering of the main plenum area as it goes from the throttle body
to the opposite end, or the mouths of the runners on the throttle side need to
be opened up a bit.
I'll do a little reading tonight and bring back some details.
- - Brian
> As the pressure in the plenum is the same in all parts of
> it,
and the lower transfer channel takes care of this too,
> I believe that
all cylinders are getting the same amount of
> air. Just look at the
runners all together and compare to
> the turbine intake hole. In no way
will the intake runners
> be outflowed. As long as there is the same
pressure in them
> and no heavy restriction causes a problem, the flow is
the
> same.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 17:42:40 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Brian you are actually correct, if you look at most aftermarket engineered
intake plenums for inline motors you will see this design you mentioned. A
prime example of this is the JUN Intake plenum for the Nissan Skyline.
A plenum designed like this is on my wish list but I have made the decision
to go back to college so the "Ridiculous VR-4" is currently on the
shelf...
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 5:34
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
I'm not sure I agree with this statement. From what I've read, intake
plenums like what we have will tend to get more air in the runners at the END of
the plenum. In order for air (pressure) distribution to be equal, there
needs to be a tapering of the main plenum area as it goes from the throttle body
to the opposite end, or the mouths of the runners on the throttle side need to
be opened up a bit.
I'll do a little reading tonight and bring back some details.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 15:06:19 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Yep, that's exactly what I was talking about. I've seen a few Supras
that actually cut off the top of their plenum, and then welded on an arched top
that gave more volume to the main plenum area. They report pretty good
seat of the pants results doing that. I wonder if doing something similar
to the back or top of our plenum would net us similar results?
It doesn't seem like the plenum represents a big restriction for us.
A redesigned plenum would be nice, but I think I could live with the stock one
if I had some handle on how uneven the flow is, and thus how much individual
cylinder trim is needed.
- - Brian
> Brian you are actually correct, if you look at most
>
aftermarket engineered intake plenums for inline
> motors you will see
this design you mentioned. A
> prime example of this is the JUN
Intake plenum for
> the Nissan Skyline.
>
> A picture
is linked to below
www.exvitermini.com/pics/plenum.jpg>
> A plenum designed like this is on my wish list but
> I have made
the decision to go back to college so
> the "Ridiculous VR-4" is currently
on the shelf...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:59:22 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
One of the main factors differentiating flow characteristics from one
runner to the next is absolute cross-section. This would be fairly close from
the factory but because of casting irregularities not exactly the same. Another
factor differentiating flow characteristics would be turbulence from the shape
of the runner and it's finish. Shape from runner to runner is always different,
hand finishing not always possible. Most intake & exhaust manifold designs
concentrate on getting the length exactly the same runner to runner and they try
to get the cross-section the same but in production (trust me I KNOW about
production) things don't always work out the way the engineers plan & wall
thickness will vary even from manifold to manifold. I think a bench flow test
would show a significant difference(+-5%) between runners at WOT level flows.
That is assuming the runners are all the same length, if not you will see large
differences. Many stock V8's have radically different lengths in intake runners,
the designers try to compensate by enlarging the cross-section on the long ones.
To bad nobody produces a spark plug with temp/pressure senders built in.
Pete Rivenburg
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 3:10 PM
> My guess why #6 cylinder is the hottest is because it is
> the
closest to the air intake. It gets the same amount of fuel but
> more air
than other cylinders, which makes it run lean and also with
> more
load.
I'm still not with this !
As the pressure in the plenum is the same in all parts of it, and the lower
transfer channel takes care of this too, I believe that all cylinders are
getting the same amount of air.<snip>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:22:28 -0800
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Actually they do make sparkplugs with windows! My buddy was showing
me this plug that by using fiber optics, allows the color of the combustion
chamber to be observed. I'll do some research and find out what the story
is.
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:19:29 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Drivability-cold engine-spits and sputters cold-unable to accelerate until
warm.
I had a cold idle problem with my 93 --- it wouldn't idle below 2000 rpm
until warm. Bad capacitors on the ECE seemed to be the problem. There are other
temp sensors on the engine that tell the ECU when the car is warm so it can
richen the mixture. If the ECU doesn't know the car is cold you're likely to get
weird operation.
Jim
Berry
========================================
> Hello All,
>
> I'm looking for assistance with 91 Dodge
Stealth Turbo, vehicle
> identification number- jb3xe74c7my011521.
Vehicle has a cold engine
> problem where the car spits and sputters,
also seems to backfire until
> vehicle warms up. The problem is so severe
in the cold weather the
> vehicle needs to idle 15 minutes before you can
drive. The recent
> repairs that have been performed on the vehicle are-
spark plugs and
> ignition cables, also replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor
(vehicle would
> run cold with sensor unplugged but lost idle quality).
None of these
> repairs have helped the above condition. We also have
performed
> drivability tests on vehicle-no codes in the system and fuel
pressure
> is ok, o2 sensors and coolant sensors are operating properly.
Last
> year the vehicle had upper engine work due to timing belt
failure,
> the current mileage on the vehicle is 131,000. If anyone has
> experienced this type of problem and can help- It would be appreciated
> greatly.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 23:02:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Bromm <
tbromm68@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Pwr. steering bleeding & Redline?
I apologize in advance for this being very detailed
but the service
manual seems to make a big deal out of
it.
My '92 Stealth R/T NA has 150K miles and I figured
it's time to replace
the pwr. steering fluid.
In the service manual for draining there are many
steps after removing
the return hose:
1. Raise the front wheels on a jack and "then support
them with rigid
racks"?? So they want the weight of
the car on the front wheels?
Why?
2. Disconnect the "high-tension cable" and while
operating the
starter motor turn the wheel left &
right several times. They don't
want the engine
running apparently but why not?
Then you're supposed to bleed the air by:
1. Supporting the front wheels again for some reason.
Any
idea why this is needed?? Why couldn't the
wheels just hang free?
It would be easier to turn and
I would think cause less stress on the
components.
2. Turn the wheel left & right several times
without
the engine running, then with just turning the motor
with the
starter, THEN with the engine running!
Anyone gone through this process, or perhaps
eliminated some steps with
ok results?
I've also considered having the system flushed by a
shop to remove any
metal flakes, gunk, etc. Here's a
link to the process:
Lastly, has anyone used Redline's synthetic power
steering fluid?
I'm using their manual tranny oil
(thanks to Jeff Lucius for his excellent
website!) and
it's fantastic.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Tom Bromm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 09:02:38 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pwr. steering bleeding & Redline?
<<<1. Raise the front wheels on a jack and "then support
them
with rigid racks"?? So they want the weight of
the car on the front
wheels? Why?>>>
The wheels should be off the ground so they can turn freely. Support
the front of the car with jackstands.
<<<2. Disconnect the "high-tension cable" and while
operating
the starter motor turn the wheel left &
right several times. They
don't want the engine
running apparently but why not?>>>
Because running the engine at this point will damage the power
steering pump. Turn the pump at engine speed with no fluid in it and
you'll be buying yourself a new pump.
Then you're supposed to bleed the air by:
<<<1. Supporting the front wheels again for some
reason.
Any idea why this is needed?? Why couldn't the
wheels
just hang free? It would be easier to turn and
I would think cause less
stress on the components.>>>
I think that's what they mean--support the front end and allow the
wheels to hang free. Jack the car up just enough so that the wheels no
longer contact the surface.
<<<2. Turn the wheel left & right several times
without
the engine running, then with just turning the motor
with the
starter, THEN with the engine running!>>>
This step is essential to make sure you bleed the air out of the
lines, to make sure there's no "churning" in the pump (turning the pump at
engine speeds with air will cause the power steering fluid to foam), and to make
sure that before you run the pump at engine speeds, it is full.
<<>Anyone gone through this process, or perhaps
eliminated some
steps with ok results?>>>
Why would you want to eliminate any steps? The whole process
should take you less than 1/2 hour.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 09:04:10 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Weird Whine from Drivetrain
Lately I've been noticing that under throttle, my drive train emits a sort
of whine at around 2700-3100 rpm in just about any gear. If I'm not "on it" it
doesn't normally do it, but if I am giving decent acceleration it will whine.
Now I know that "whine" is not a good term, but that's just what it reminds me
of. It's higher pitched than the engine (and quite a bit louder inside the
cabin), sounds mechanical, and only happens around 3k rpm. I can lightly feel it
as well.
I'm wondering if this is a sign of impending Transfer Case failure. I've
Been putting of the recall until I had a chance to check it myself, but am now
somewhat worried that if I don't get it in soon, I could lose my car. I can't
have that.
Can anyone confirm my suspicion? or maybe point me in the right direction
for a fix or what to look at if my suspicion is way off?
Thanks guys,
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 58k miles, Open Air
Intake
Wichita, KS
------------------------------
are you sure it's not the characteristic "owl hoot" that we hear when the
stock intake box is removed/replaced?
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Purviance
[mailto:purdaddy@associatedsys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:04
AM
Lately I've been noticing that under throttle, my drive train emits a sort
of whine at around 2700-3100 rpm in just about any gear. If I'm not "on it" It
doesn't normally do it, but if I am giving decent acceleration it will whine.
Now I know that "whine" is not a good term, but that's just what it reminds me
of. It's higher pitched than the engine (and quite a bit louder inside the
cabin), sounds mechanical, and only happens around 3k rpm. I can lightly feel it
as well.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 09:19:23 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird Whine from Drivetrain
Well, I guess I can roll down the windows and listen closer, but this
actually produces vibration in the car. Would the "owl hoot" produce a
vibration felt by those in the car? It's a noise that makes me back off
the accelerator as soon as it emits, cause it sounds baaaaaaaaaad. If it
were to be something like the intake, is there some way to curb it? It
didn't start until last week, and I've had the open air filter on for over a
month.
Hmmmm.
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 58k miles, Open Air
Intake
Wichita, KS
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 09:49:44 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird Whine from Drivetrain
Actually, when listening to that wav file you sent me, it does sound
awfully similar. Is that natural? Sounds nasty.
It doesn't seem to do it when in neutral. Didn't try it with the
clutch depressed.
Anyway, is there a fix, or does everyone live with it? I'm going to
do some searches on it.
Thanks so much Chuck.
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 58k miles, Open Air
Intake
Wichita, KS
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, February
12, 2003 9:43 AM
>
> did you listen to the wav file I sent?
>
do you hear the noise if you run the rpms up in neutral or with the
>
clutch pedal in?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 10:53:23 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird Whine from Drivetrain
Pat there is a whole FAQ on this on the Team3s website, and basically it is
caused when you put an open element air filter in the car while still retaining
the stock BOV. Your 2 choices are to live with it or spend like 270-300
bucks on a Greddy type S BOV (along with the adaptor fitting) and the sound will
go away.
HTH
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Purviance
[mailto:purdaddy@associatedsys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 10:50
AM
Actually, when listening to that wav file you sent me, it does sound
awfully similar. Is that natural? Sounds nasty.
It doesn't seem to do it when in neutral. Didn't try it with the
clutch depressed.
Anyway, is there a fix, or does everyone live with it? I'm going to
do some searches on it.
Thanks so much Chuck.
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 58k miles, Open Air
Intake
Wichita, KS
------------------------------
The transfer case is installed after the gearbox. It spins at a speed
proportional to the to wheels, not to the engine. If it was the transfer case,
that noise would have occurred at a certain car speed in any gear. But since it
is at 2700-3100 rpm in just about any gear, it is not the transfer case. It is
either the gearbox, the clutch, or something in the engine.
Philip
- --------------------------------------------
Lately I've been noticing that under throttle, my drive train emits a sort
of whine at around 2700-3100 rpm in just about any gear. ... ... I'm wondering
if this is a sign of impending Transfer Case failure.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 09:18:11 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird Whine from Drivetrain
If it is the infamous owl hoot, you don't have to spend $300 on a Greddy
BOV. The TurboXS H-34 BOV can be had for around $160, requires no adapter,
and is recirculating just like stock. Doesn't sound 'ricey', either.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 17:30:43 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Weird Whine from Drivetrain
> If it is the infamous owl hoot, you don't
> have to spend $300
on a Greddy BOV. The
> TurboXS H-34 BOV can be had for
around
> $160, requires no adapter, and is
> recirculating just like
stock. Doesn't
> sound 'ricey', either.
I'll give you another even less expensive choice... Stock 1G DSM
valve with
2G DSM adaptor for $130 at Extreme Motorsports. Same setup
as stock -
recirculating.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 12:46:38 -0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Our plenums are tapered, aren't they?
What happens if the manifold, which was designed for 320 HP, now flows air
enough air to produce two or three times that horsepower? Would it go mostly to
cylinder #1 because of such manifold design, or would the taper become more of a
restriction than it was planned to be and the air would go mostly to cylinder
#6? I think intake manifolds have a different design from the 1st to 2nd
generation. From what Roger said, 1st gen tends to favor cyl #1 and 2nd gen
tends to favor cyl #6.
Brian from GT-Pro brought a monster unfinished drag racing VR-4 to the
NG'02. It had a huge aluminum box welded to the stock manifold runners to
replace the stock "taper". Apparently he thought that the stock taper presents a
restriction to his car. I think I have a pic of that manifold on my website
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip
in the 3SNG'02 photo section.
Plugs with pressure transducers are available. They are sold under brand
names PSI-Plug and Cal-Plug by Optrand, Inc, Plymouth, Michigan (734)451-3480.
They have a website if you search the internet. I called them last year because
I wanted to use their stuff for knock calibration and asked the price. They said
"eleven fifty nine for a plug". I asked $11.59? Then said no, $1,159.00. I am
sure they have already made or could make a plug with a thermocouple in it too
for just "nine-ninety nine". ;-)
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 20:45:29 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
> Our plenums are tapered, aren't they?
Nope, just a roughly rectangular box with runners attached.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 15:59:15 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
I have mine off and am polishing it. How do I tell if it's
tapered?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 16:04:27 -0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
> I have mine off and am polishing it. How do I tell if it's
tapered?
Look at the large runner that goes across the car and then splits into the
six small runners. Look at it from the back of the car and from underneath. See
if its semi-square cross-section is smaller at cylinder #1 than at cylinder
#6.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 13:11:25 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Dave Best has some pictures on his web site that show a taper from the
throttle body down to about mid plenum. I'm looking at the one for my spare
engine and it's uniform [ roughly rectangular ] after the taper for the throttle
body.
I could take a couple of pictures if someone has a site to post them.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 14:25:54 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Is it fairly well finished on the inside or are there rough edges to the
casting seams & corners?
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 13:28:42 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
surface finish is like a 220 to 400 grit sandpaper and the casting marks
are minimal --- ½ mm or less.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 13:42:48 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
I've had mine apart for polishing and it's your typical casting finish
inside. If I remember right the seams were actually pretty good (I know
I've seen worse). The taper seen from the outside is more of an offset
then anything else. There's a slight taper on the main piece but not
enough effect flow IMO.
What's interesting is the inside of the back (where the slight taper
is
seen) there are several ridges running vertical along the surface.
They would definitely effect surface flow inside but perhaps that was by design
to get the air off the back and distribute it better.
- -James
95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rivenburg, Pete
[mailto:privenburg@firstam.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 1:26
PM
Is it fairly well finished on the inside or are there rough edges to the
casting seams & corners?
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 13:44:39 -0800
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Some surface roughness is actually preferred over polished smooth surfaces.
At the Garrett lectures two weeks ago in Torrance, CA, they discussed this in
some detail. Basically, polished surfaces provide more turbulence than
slightly rough ones. The theory here is that there is a cushioning layer
at the roughened surface which provides less friction than that of a polishes
surface. All of their race turbos are not polished smooth on either the
turbine or compressor sides! There is a matt finish of about 240 grit on
all surfaces. Since their race turbos go for about $15K each, I'm betting
that they've done some testing!!!
Damon
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday,
February 12, 2003 1:28 PM
surface finish is like a 220 to 400 grit sandpaper and the casting marks
are minimal --- ½ mm or less.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 21:46:07 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
> I think they are! Very slightly though. Go
> take one off the
car and flip it over.
> (I love arguing on the internet!) :^)
This is why I'm reluctant to even post here these days... (Perhaps
not
reluctant enough).
Mine is rectangular. Not tapered. Not even slightly. Its
a box with
radiused corners.
IE: It has no taper. It is not angled, not triangular in
nature. A squared
rectangular log of a plenum.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 13:49:21 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
I'm a bit confused...are you saying your plenum is tapered? ;)
Seriously though, it really doesn't look tapered to my eye.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 16:49:34 -0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Yes, this is true for surfaces that have some curvature to them. But for
straight sections polishing is preferred.
Philip
- ------------------------------------
Some surface roughness is actually preferred over polished smooth surfaces.
At the Garrett lectures two weeks ago in Torrance, CA, they discussed this in
some detail. Basically, polished surfaces provide more turbulence than
slightly rough ones. The theory here is that there is a cushioning layer
at the roughened surface which provides less friction than that of a polishes
surface. All of their race turbos are not polished smooth on either the
turbine or compressor sides! There is a matt finish of about 240 grit on
all surfaces. Since their race turbos go for about $15K each, I'm betting
that they've done some testing!!!
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 15:08:23 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Sounds right to me. Everything I've read on fluid dynamics points to the
cushioning layer method being better then smooth at reducing turbulence. no
matter what you will get some turbulence at the boundary layer, if the boundary
is a turbulent layer of air just a few thousands thick the main charge is
effected less then if it is a hard surface.
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 14:20:15 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
Better look again --- the cross section on mine is NOT uniform. The area
where the throttle body is merged into the plenum is larger in cross section.
It's not a uniform taper from one end of the plenum to the other but the first
two runners have an increased volume. It does not look like the intent was to
form a tapered plenum but rather just merge a round throttle body with a
rectangular plenum.
Jim Berry
=====================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
> Mine is rectangular. Not tapered. Not even slightly.
Its a box with
> radiused corners.
>
> IE: It has no
taper. It is not angled, not triangular in nature. A
>
squared
> rectangular log of a plenum.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 14:32:09 -0800
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Is it true cylinder #1 runs hotter?
I would think that it applies to all surfaces. Any time a fluid
travels in a container. Then again, I'm no fluid dynamicist.
> Yes, this is true for surfaces that have some curvature to them. But
> for straight sections polishing is preferred.
>
>
Philip
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#79
**************************************
