Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, February 7
2003 Volume 02 : Number 075
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:25:24 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 2nd gen calipers on 1st gen VR-4 with stock rims?
I saw the note about the spacer, I am just thinking a total milling of
about 17-18MM on that inside step would give alot of people clearance they are
looking for. And it would more than likely still be cheaper than buying a
cheap set of 17" wheels
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave
[mailto:monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 5:22
PM
I haven't seen the wheel without a tire on it, but I'm pretty sure it's not
"thicker" there. the "steps" you see are there on the other side (inside)
as well. In other words, the thickness is the
same front to rear, just
"stepped". Keep in mind that this is with a 15mm H&R spacer as
well.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 00:00:51 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 2nd gen calipers on 1st gen VR-4 with stock rims?
OMG !!!! That's like cutting the seatbelt, Or remove 4 bolts on the wheel
as one is enough. I know people who have done this but I'd never touch such
important stuff .. never.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Sent:
Thursday, February 06, 2003 11:14 PM
> I have a really dumb question couldn't we just have the inside of the
> wheels machined where they contact the calipers and call it done?
Any
> competent wheel repair shop would be able to do
this?
>
> From those photos it seems like the wheel was just
thickened in that
> area to increase strength.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 18:06:19 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 2nd gen calipers on 1st gen VR-4 with stock rims?
Roger I am not attacking you here but how did mitsu address the clearance
issue on the 17" wheels for the 94+ model year cars (93+ for the Euro
cars)
I am almost positive they cast the wheel with less material in that area
(probably the reason that those wheels are also lighter than my 26.75 lbs a
piece stock 93's)
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 6:01
PM
OMG !!!! That's like cutting the seatbelt, Or remove 4 bolts on the wheel
as one is enough. I know people who have done this but I'd never touch such
important stuff .. never.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 00:19:47 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 2nd gen calipers on 1st gen VR-4 with stock rims?
> Roger I am not attacking you here but how did mitsu address
the
> clearance issue on the 17" wheels for the 94+ model year cars (93+
for
> the Euro cars)
No offend at all :-) AFAIK, we do have other wheels as we have an EU note
on the inside. To be honest, I have not seen an US 3000GT here were I could
compare them and so I can only say what Mitsu told me.
> I am almost positive they cast the wheel with less material in
that
> area (probably the reason that those wheels are also lighter than
my
> 26.75 lbs a piece stock 93's)
I have them off the car so just let me know what measures I should take and
I can give you them for comparison. Even when they have cast them smaller I'd
not machine the wheel to make them the same. As I had my accident (with
scratched OZ as a result), they told me that they radiograph them (sorry, dunno
the right word ... I mean something like radiology) to see if there is any
structural problem. As far as I understand machining a wheel generates those
structural changes that are not wanted in wheels.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 18:11:43 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How hard is it to change Synchros?
I changed out all of my synchros in my '91 TT. It was a complicated
task because you HAVE to make sure that everything goes back together the way it
came apart. UNFORTUNATELY, I did something wrong on mine and I'm now faced
with pulling the tranny out of my car and disassembling it to check what it
wrong.
ALSO...you can use a gear puller to get all of the gears off of the shafts,
but you will likely need a machine shop to press the gears back on. This
was what I had to do. I'm hoping the goons the pressed my gears back on
didn't screw something up. ( I wasn't able to be there to supervise)
The REAAAAALY unfortunate thing is that there is no way that I could come
up with to test the tranny before putting it back into the car to see if
everything is right or not.
ARRG!
I have pics of the tranny internals if anybody wants to see...come to think
of it, I'll just post them to my webspace for everyone to see.
-Jeff Crabtree
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan
Sent: Thursday,
February 06, 2003 2:33 PM
I got my 92 VR4 tranny sitting on the floor of Paul's garage while my
engine is being rebuilt and I am thinking to myself, "man its not all that bad,
but the 2nd gear is a bit notchy" So what does it take? How much does it
cost?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 16:49:48 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How hard is it to change Synchros?
Yes, please supply a link.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:15:47 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
How hard is it to change Synchros?
What is the problem this time ????
As to gear pullers ---- when I did mine one of the gears required a press.
There was no way you're going to remove mine with a puller. I had them quit at 5
tons and it hadn't budged --- I was going to go another ton and add some heat
but decided not to disassemble any further.
There's a good description and pictures of the internals on Jeff Lucius'
site. I too have a bunch of pictures some of which are on Jeff's site.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:46:48 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How hard is it to change Synchros?
OK.
For those interested. Here's a link to my webspace. I'm not going to
waste the time or energy to actually create a webpage to post these on. I
just don't have the time. If somebody wants to....go ahead. As of
now they're public domain.
I referred to Jeff's website for most of my teardown, but I went alot
deeper into the transmission than what the procedure describes.
Here's the link:
Hope it helps.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 22:42:50 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How hard is it to change Synchros?
I once participated in operation "Synchro". That was Joe Kenwabikise's '91
R/T TT. Once you have the tranny out of the car it is not that bad if you
ever worked with engines or other transmissions before. Start by... taking
it apart!
This is the first gear side of the 1-2 synchro.
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/Pics/getrag_teardown/P0002534.JPG
Be
careful with those little square blocks inside the synchro. Notice their
orientation. They are a pain in the butt to install back. You might need a
friend or two to do the complete job. If you are good with your fingers,
you should be able to install those blocks back with a reasonable effort.
We did it the hard way with the inner ring pressed on the shaft. The
correct way would have been to put the whole synchro together outside the
tranny, secure it so that it does not fall apart, and press it on the shaft
already assembled.
Make sure not to flip the outer race upside down when installing it back.
We followed photos from a "not approved" website and installed it wrong.
Glad we tested the shifting before we installed the transmission back!
The third gear synchro will follow. You can easily replace it too while you
are there.
If your goal is to fix the synchros you won't have to go any further. Put
it back together and be done. Make sure to test the shifts before
installing it back in. The tranny should normally be in neutral and you
should be able to engage all gears by playing with shifter lever on top of
the tranny. That's it!
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 22:20:14 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Tranny not right? New developments!!...any ideas?
- -----Original Message-----
From: William Jeffrey Crabtree
[mailto:wjcrabtree@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 9:13
PM
Jim et al,
I described my issue in a post a while back. Here's the mail I sent,
copied and pasted for you:
"with the transmission in gear, I can still turn the axles. It's not
like they turn FREELY. It feels more like the splines aren't quite all the
way in. I'm pretty sure the axles are inserted all of the way into the
transmission because everything else lines up. I rebuilt my tranny a while
back and everything seemed to go back together properly. The transmission
is still dry, since I have not added fluids to it yet. Is this normal?
Does/could this have anything to do with the viscous coupling being dry?"
In a follow up conversation with Matt Jannusch I wrote the following:
Ok...YES the car is up...all four wheels off the ground.....the motor has
not been started. I've done a complete rebuild of the motor, tranny,
steering rack, and turbos.....this has all taken about 3 years...it's been slow
going. The transfer case and the transmission were in good working order
the last time the car was driven EXCEPT that my 3rd gear synchro was
toast. That's why I did a tranny rebuild. When I rebuilt the
transmission, I replaced all of the synchros with the famous Jack T. synchros
that were obtained about 5 to 6 years ago. The transmission rebuild was
done ABOUT two years ago, but has not been used as the car has been apart for
that amount of time. I was VERY careful at the time of the rebuild to get
everything off and back on again in the proper order. This was especially
difficult since we really do not have a roadmap of this transmission. We
simply documented what we did with a digital camera and did the reassembly in
the reverse order.
When I turn the rear wheels by hand, the drive shaft turns, without
resistance. No noise is made at all from the transfer case or the tranny.
When I turn the front axles (with a socket wrench on the castleated nut on the
end of it because I don't have the front wheels on yet), I get that dead popping
noise associated with light resistance coming out of the transmission."
"The pop seems to be in step with either a gear or the splines of the
in/output shaft. I would say that while turning the axle, every 5° results
in a pop."
THIS JUST IN!!!!
This evening, I discovered that if I put the tranny in gear, I am unable to
turn the motor by hand. I CAN turn the motor by hand if the tranny is in
neutral. This tells me a couple of things. First, that the clutch is
working properly. Second, that the gears on the main shafts are working
correctly. My worry at this point is that something is not right with the
differential gear assembly. I don't know how this could be because I did
not disassemble it...just took it out and put it right back in when I was done
changing synchros.
ANYBODY GOT ANY IDEAS?!?!?
- -Jeff Crabtree
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
Sent: Thursday, February
06, 2003 7:16 PM
What is the problem this time ????
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 00:20:05 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Buying tires from Discount Tire Co.
Cody,
Sounds like Discount Tire Co. is a first class operation. It also sounds
like
you personally put alot of effort into first rate service for your
customers.
I'll tell you what: I never did get the correct centering rings for my
Enkei's. They are close but it is a good 5 minute struggle to get each wheel
off the car. The wheels are 17" RP01. The car is a '91 VR4.
If you would like to demonstrate Discount Tire Company's commitment to
customer service find the CORRECT centering rings for my rim/car and send
them to me free of charge. Shouldn't be a problem - the rings can't be more
than a few $$ and you can even send them ground to save on shipping.
What a fantastic PR opportunity for Discount Tire Co!
If you are interested I'll email my shipping address privately.
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
<< You will find the match-mounting much much more common.
Almost every Discount Tire location has a match-mount machine now.
Hunter GSP9700 is the model we have, and are scheduled to replace one of
our other standard balancers fairly soon with the latest greatest model of
such machine.
I know there are Discount Tire
Co.'s in your area, and I do hope that this wasn't at any of our
locations, as it sounds very appalling to me.
I will be
honest with you, the kind of screw-ups like you mentioned - the
"mis-packaged" wheel... I get that crap all the time, and it comes
straight from the manufacturer like that... wrong center caps every now
and then, wrong bolt patterns, and even polished finish when it's supposed
to be chrome... I've gotten to the point, any wheel sale I make, I
take EVERYTHING out of the box before we do anything...
As
far as torqueing everything to spec, if a company is not doing that now, I
feel very bad for them... With the lawsuits and stuff on the rise,
this is the last sense of security we have in knowing that everything was
done properly... In fact, we've redesigned our training process at
DTC because of a lot of this.
(snip)
...it makes us all realize how important our/my job really is as an
Assistant Manager.
- -Cody>>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 21:43:24 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Buying tires from Discount Tire Co.
I have RP01's with what appears to be the correct centering ring --- $5 for
4 of them --- however --- I only use them for track use and when I remove the
wheels [ no problem ] the rings are stuck to the hub and sometimes get broken
when I remove them. At the last event I forgot it install the rings so the
wheels were centered only with the tapered lug nuts --- I had no problems at
speed, at Sears Point ?!?!? I may leave them off next time also.
Jim Berry
====================================================
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 00:30:07 -0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: crank angle sensor
Well all looks good except that my old auto tensioner does not have the
spring in it that I expected. compressing it in the vise was a slow
possess and it seemed to have plenty of strength wile compressing it.
As the service manual states that if the old tensioner gives a lot of
resistance it is good. But after installation and torque the belt tensioner
pulley I can push or pull the timing belt with little or no effort about a inch
or so That just seems loose to me. And yes I did use the special tool to tension
the belt. I can see the auto tensioner plunger go in and out. This does not seam
normal to me.
In my opinion I think the tensioner should offer more resistance. I would
hate to buy a new tensioner if it is not needed. The Car does have 106800 Miles
on it so maybe it is time for a new one.
Any comments on this would be appreciated.
Steve Truskosky
Pearl white 1995 3000GT SL
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve
Sent: Friday, January 10,
2003 7:20 PM
Hello Group
This is my dilemma. I have a 1995 3000GT SL. The harmonic dampeners outer
ring walked on me. In doing this it broke the P/S Belt.
The P/S Belt got raped around the crank and in doing so it wore a hole in
the lower timing cover. This is where it gets good. Parts of the belt were
moving around inside the timing cover, and caused the motor to die. After the
removal of the timing covers & Crank pulley I saw that the crank angle ring
and the crank angle sensor were damaged. One ear or the crank angle ring was
bent over causing it to hit the crank angle sensor.
This is my question. In my examination to the timing, it appears that the
value train
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 02:24:56 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How hard is it to change Synchros?
Here is a temp page of Jeff's pictures of his Getrag teardown. We'll
move these to his site tomorrow.
(For you folks with bandwidth to burn visit the site below with full-size
images)
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: William Jeffrey Crabtree
Sent:
Thursday, February 06, 2003 19:12
[snip]
I have pics of the tranny internals if anybody wants to see...come to think
of it, I'll just post them to my webspace for everyone to see.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 08:57:43 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 2nd gen calipers on 1st gen VR-4 with stock rims?
They probably did an ultrasound or magnafluxed the wheels to look for
stress fractures.
If you could measure the inner diameter at it narrowest point that would be
greatly appreciated
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 6:20
PM
I have them off the car so just let me know what measures I should take and
I can give you them for comparison. Even when they have cast them smaller I'd
not machine the wheel to make them the same. As I had my accident (with
scratched OZ as a result), they told me that they radiograph them (sorry, dunno
the right word ... I mean something like radiology) to see if there is any
structural problem. As far as I understand machining a wheel generates those
structural changes that are not wanted in wheels.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 10:24:32 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: crank angle sensor
If there's any doubt in your mind, buy a new one. They are not that
expensive.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 15:27:10 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil leak
>> The leak is at the end of the oil feed line that connects to
the
turbocharger.
After my engine was rebuilt, I had an oil leak in the same place. Right at
the fitting/joint where the oil supply line attaches to the rear (left) turbo
center section.
Every time I had parts off where I could get to that fitting, I tried to
tighten it a little with a flare-nut wrench. Eventually I tightened it enough
that it stopped leaking.
I have to admit, though, the torque I used started to have me worried I
would strip the threads. There seemed to be no easy way to attach a torque
wrench so I don't know what torque I eventually had to use to stop it from
leaking, but it was a enough that it made me nervous about applying any more.
I think it was a 12- or 14-mm wrench so the threads are likely M8 or
M10. In
the service manual, Mitsu suggests a tightening torque for
this fitting of 14
ft-lbs (or 28 lbs of pull on a 6" lever). If you keep a
short grip on the
wrench and use one hand you *probably* won't strip the
threads.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 10:37:00 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Buying tires from Discount Tire Co.
Not a problem at all... Please e-mail me privately your mailing
address, and I'll get it taken care of first thing next week.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSent: Thursday, February
06, 2003 11:20 PM
Cody,
Sounds like Discount Tire Co. is a first class operation. It also sounds
like
you personally put alot of effort into first rate service for your
customers.
I'll tell you what: I never did get the correct centering rings for my
Enkei's. They are close but it is a good 5 minute struggle to get each wheel
off the car. The wheels are 17" RP01. The car is a '91 VR4.
If you would like to demonstrate Discount Tire Company's commitment to
customer service find the CORRECT centering rings for my rim/car and send
them to me free of charge. Shouldn't be a problem - the rings can't be more
than a few $$ and you can even send them ground to save on shipping.
What a fantastic PR opportunity for Discount Tire Co!
If you are interested I'll email my shipping address privately.
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 10:42:06 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 2nd gen calipers on 1st gen VR-4 with stock rims?
I have to agree. You cannot machine any material off of a wheel
without drastically reducing it's structural integrity. I believe the area
you are talking about is the drop-center. That area was put there for a
reason, and that's so a tire can be installed. I have a feeling if you
look at the wheel under the tire, you will see it follows that contour almost
exactly. All wheels are built this way. Some manufacturers will
change where the drop center is to make for more clearance, and such, and some
wheels with a dished appearance will actually put the drop center at the back
edge of the wheel, making reverse mounting of the tire a necessity (with the
wheel upside down)...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Thursday,
February 06, 2003 5:20 PM
> Roger I am not attacking you here but how did mitsu address the
> clearance issue on the 17" wheels for the 94+ model year cars (93+ for
> the Euro cars)
No offend at all :-) AFAIK, we do have other wheels as we have an EU note
on the inside. To be honest, I have not seen an US 3000GT here were I could
compare them and so I can only say what Mitsu told me.
> I am almost positive they cast the wheel with less material in that
> area (probably the reason that those wheels are also lighter than my
> 26.75 lbs a piece stock 93's)
I have them off the car so just let me know what measures I should take and
I can give you them for comparison. Even when they have cast them smaller I'd
not machine the wheel to make them the same. As I had my accident (with
scratched OZ as a result), they told me that they radiograph them (sorry, dunno
the right word ... I mean something like radiology) to see if there is any
structural problem. As far as I understand machining a wheel generates those
structural changes that are not wanted in wheels.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 17:30:16 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Oil leak
Thanks for the input Jeff, I've been doing the same thing and it seems to
be
leaking less. I attack that nut every night and was about to give up on
it and
get a new line. Unfortunately with any kind of pipe threads (crush
threads)
they don't take well to being put on and taken off too many times.
I'll keep working it to see if I can get it stop, as I'm sure replacing the
line is no easy job. Seems like anytime there is an inexpensive part on our
cars the labor involved goes up proportionately.
> >> The leak
is at the end of the oil feed line that connects to the
>
turbocharger.
>
> After my engine was rebuilt, I had an oil leak in
the same place.
> Right at the fitting/joint where the oil supply line
attaches to the
> rear (left) turbo center section.
>
>
Every time I had parts off where I could get to that fitting, I tried
> to
tighten it a little with a flare-nut wrench. Eventually I tightened
> it
enough that it stopped leaking.
>
> I have to admit, though, the
torque I used started to have me worried
> I would strip the threads.
There seemed to be no easy way to attach a
> torque wrench so I don't
know what torque I eventually had to use to
> stop it from leaking, but
it was a enough that it made me nervous
> about applying any
more.
>
> I think it was a 12- or 14-mm wrench so the threads are
likely M8 or
> M10. In
> the service manual, Mitsu suggests a
tightening torque for this fitting of 14
> ft-lbs (or 28 lbs of pull on a
6" lever). If you keep a short grip on the
> wrench and use one hand you
*probably* won't strip the threads.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 09:33:02 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: crank angle sensor
> Well all looks good except
> that my old auto tensioner does
not
> have the spring in it that I expected.
> <...>
>
The Car does have 106800 Miles on it so maybe
> it is time for a new
one.
I believe the auto-tensioner is supposed to be replaced at 120k according
to Mitsu. In any case, most people here change it with every timing belt
change (cheap insurance). Based on your description of the pin moving fast
enough that you can see it move, you need a new one. The pin in the
tensioner should move, but slower than a stoned turtle.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 11:56:22 -0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: FW: Tranny not right? New developments!!...any ideas?
>-----Original Message-----
>From: William Jeffrey Crabtree
[mailto:wjcrabtree@earthlink.net]
>
>"with the transmission in gear,
I can still turn the axles. It's not
>like they turn FREELY.
It feels more like the splines aren't quite all
>the way in. I'm
pretty sure the axles are inserted all of the way into
>the transmission
because everything else lines up. I rebuilt my tranny
>a
while
>back and everything seemed to go back together
properly. The
>transmission is still dry, since I have not added
fluids to it yet. Is
>this normal?
Axles do not turn very freely. There is usually quite a bit of drag there.
If you are in gear and if you are turning one axle by hand, the other axle
should be turning too but in the opposite direction. There should be not
clicking or anything.
>Does/could this have anything to do with the viscous coupling
being
>dry?"
No, all the differentials should still work with or without oil.
Philip
------------------------------
Has anyone installed one of these horns in their car? I got the one from
Griott's Garage Part#3AG 003 399-801. I think it may be louder but it still has
a tinny sound to it.
Anyone have any experience with this? I talked to a friend of mine that
works at a Mercedes dealership and he said there might be some extra wire that
could be causing problems. I'm going to follow up with him on this tomorrow but
wanted to see if the minds here had any input.
Thanks
Mike 97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 16:53:28 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 265's on 8.5 rims?
Sorry to dredge this up, but I would love to put 265/35's on my 18 x 8.5
rims. Few if any tire companies recommend this size on anything narrower
than a 9in. rim. Does anyone have any open track use experience with this
set-up? Cody, what's the Discount Tire recommendation?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 04, 2003 8:59 PM
> I wouldn't go bigger than 19's at all, however, I know that 20's
will
> fit. In all actuality, anything bigger than 18" is really not
needed,
> and will only hurt the vehicles performance.
>
> If
it were me, some 275/35-18 on a 18x9.5" wheel would be my 1st
> choice,
and second would be 265/35-18 on a 18x8.5" wheel, or some
> combination
thereof...
>
> -Cody
------------------------------
Way too fat, Id stop at 120% of tire:wheel width.
120% tire:wheel would be just short of a 260 tire, much less a 265.
Will handle very poorly.
On Fri, 7 Feb 2003, bdtrent wrote:
> Sorry to dredge this up, but I would love to put 265/35's on my 18
x
> 8.5 rims. Few if any tire companies recommend this size on
anything
> narrower than a 9in. rim. Does anyone have any open
track use
> experience with this set-up? Cody, what's the Discount
Tire
> recommendation?
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 15:11:01 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 265's on 8.5 rims?
When I purchased my car, there were 265/35R18 on the rear stock 18" wheels.
The fronts were 245/40R18.
I didn't have any troubles with the 265's on the rear but I can't speak for
the front.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> Sorry to dredge this up, but I would love to put 265/35's on my 18
x
> 8.5 rims. Few if any tire companies recommend this size on
anything
> narrower than a 9in. rim. Does anyone have any open
track use
> experience with this set-up? Cody, what's the Discount
Tire
> recommendation?
------------------------------
I would not mind trying. This is the size that I am going to buy when all
six of my Kumhos 712 wear out. I also have 8.5" wide rims. I think I will love a
better grip of the wider tires and, since the O.D. is a tad smaller, I would be
able to use my gearbox better.
I have seen OEM tire/wheel packages with ratios worse than that and they
handle fine. Another comparison, even though 275x35-18 on a 9" rim, which is not
a controversial setup according to the formula, has a better ratio than
265x35-18 on a 8.5" rim, the "excess width" of the latter tire is only 1.35 mm
larger on each side. But that tire has a profile which is lower by 3.5 mm, which
should improve sidewall stiffness.
Both setups must handle better than 245x40-18 on a 8.5" rim, IMHO.
I was told by some unrecognized experts that an AWD car is a different
animal and that it needs some extra flex in the suspension to be able to go
fast. Anyone can comment on that?
Philip
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#75
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