Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, February 5 2003 Volume
02 : Number 073
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 21:36:35 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How do I know if my valves are bent.....????????
Pop the hood and have someone crank the car for you. Look at the drive
belts (like your Alternator belt or something) and see if those are spinning. If
they are, you have 0 compression and are in the same boat as I. If they aren't,
likely your starter gear or the flywheel gear is stripped.
Tyson
My 94 TT just turned off on me. I tried to restart it right away and
the motor did not turn; just the starter making a high pitched sound.
Then, I took it to a local Auto Lab and they told me that the timing needed to
be reset and that maybe my heads had to be rebuilt. With the help of you
guys I was able to take the car apart and put a new timing belt on....
Now, the engine would speed but there isn't any signs of life, no firing no
regular engine starting sound. I can only hear the starter spinning and
the engine turning kind of like any electric motor. Could it be ignition
or anything else besides damaged or bent valves.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 22:03:08 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <
nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How do I know if my valves are bent.....????????
If all you hear is the starter spinning, chances are you've got a bad
Bendix spring in the starter. This is the spring that forces the starter gear
out to mesh with the outside of the flywheel and turns the engine over.
Hopefully that is the only problem, I just spent the last 2-1/2 weeks redoing my
heads valve grind and replaced 2 bent valves. NO FUN!!! I spent the last 4 days
just getting it back together. Good news is it runs great. Good luck, hope it's
just the starter.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
GoblinyTwin@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
February 04, 2003 8:20 PM
> My 94 TT just turned off on me. I tried to restart it right away
and
> the motor did not turn; just the starter making a high pitched
sound.
> Then, I took it to a local Auto Lab and they told me that
the timing
> needed to be reset and that maybe my heads had to be
rebuilt. With
> the help of you guys I was able to take the car
apart and put a new
> timing belt on.... Now, the engine would speed
but there isn't any
> signs of life, no firing no regular engine starting
sound. I can
> only hear the starter spinning and the engine turning
kind of like
> any electric motor. Could it be ignition or anything
else besides
> damaged or bent valves.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 01:07:24 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Supra Sidemount ICs?
First off I tried a search, I weeded through 20 or so pages of people who
had a SUPRA fuel pump and front mount INTERCOOLER, or some variation of that,
all with no luck. Alright here's my question, I'm considering upgrading the
stock intercoolers, I'd rather not go with a front mount if at all possible, so
I need bigger side mounts. I'm on my local DSM board a lot, and the supra
sidemount IC gets rave reviews from everyone who has one. The only problem I see
is that the supra SMIC is something like 4 times the size of a DSM SMIC. And I
have no idea how a DSM SMIC compares to our intercoolers. Has anyone gotten 2
Supra's to fit in the stock locations? I know that this is not going to be a
straight bolt on project, and is going to require in the very least some very
clever mounting solutions. But I have never seen a supra SMIC firsthand, so I
don't even know if it would fit at all? Has anyone successfully upgraded to
supra SMICs, or has anyone tried and found it to be impossible?
Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 07:52:03 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Supra Sidemount ICs?
Give me a couple of hours and I should be able to send a link to a picture
of the drivers side stock IC compared to a MKIV SMIC (this is of course unless
my buddy that just put in a big single and an obscenely huge FMIC threw his
stocker away)
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald Ashby
[mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 3:07
AM
First off I tried a search, I weeded through 20 or so pages of people who
had a SUPRA fuel pump and front mount INTERCOOLER, or some variation of that,
all with no luck. Alright here's my question, I'm considering upgrading the
stock intercoolers, I'd rather not go with a front mount if at all possible, so
I need bigger side mounts. I'm on my local DSM board a lot, and the supra
sidemount IC gets rave reviews from everyone who has one. The only problem I see
is that the supra SMIC is something like 4 times the size of a DSM SMIC. And I
have no idea how a DSM SMIC compares to our intercoolers. Has anyone gotten 2
Supra's to fit in the stock locations? I know that this is not going to be a
straight bolt on project, and is going to require in the very least some very
clever mounting solutions. But I have never seen a supra SMIC firsthand, so I
don't even know if it would fit at all? Has anyone successfully upgraded to
supra SMICs, or has anyone tried and found it to be impossible?
Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 07:24:42 -0600
From: "Toby Schoonover" <
toby92vr4@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dealer Location
Does anyone know of a reliable Mitsubishi dealer within the Fort
Worth
area? The few that I have gone too only seem to have late model(00-03)
Eclipse and Galant models. If anyone has had a BAD experience with a dealer
in this area also, it would be helpful too know too.
Thanks
------------------------------
Hi Everyone,
I just installed a new clutch and flywheel on my 1994 3000GT NA. When
I try to start the engine the starter is not turning over. I eventually
worked back to the starter and the voltage looks good. I placed a wrench
between the contacts and could hear the starter turning freely without engaging
the flywheel. Is there anything else I should test or try before replacing
it? Basically I am wondering if this was a valid test or not.
Thanks,
Mike
------------------------------
The test that you did tested just the motor. You need to test the starter
engagement solenoid too. Find a third contact on the starter and supply 12V to
it.
Philip
- --------------------------------------------------
Hi Everyone,
I just installed a new clutch and flywheel on my 1994 3000GT NA. When
I try to start the engine the starter is not turning over. I eventually
worked back to the starter and the voltage looks good. I placed a wrench
between the contacts and could hear the starter turning freely without engaging
the flywheel. Is there anything else I should test or try before replacing
it? Basically I am wondering if this was a valid test or not.
Thanks,
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 11:20:22 -0600
From: Michael Provence <
MProvence@gencofcu.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Starter
Thanks Everyone,
I hate to jump ahead but want to try as many options as possible tonight.
Assuming the starter is in good shape, any other suggestions? I checked
the voltage at the battery while attempting to start, checked voltage behind the
connectors, rechecked the grounding strap, disconnected the clutch position
switch, temporarily placed a jumper in the relay, and am now examining my alarm
system for any interference from the starter disable function. I have
managed to print what equates to a novel from the archive and have yet to figure
this out. If this is too rudimentary I will correspond with someone off
the list if anyone is willing.
Thanks again,
Mike
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Fay
[mailto:jfay@tssu.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 9:53 AM
Place wrench between contacts. Depends upon which contacts.
There are two large studs and one small one. One large stud is to battery,
other is to starter motor. Small stud is to solenoid. If you placed
wrench between both large studs, starter motor will turn but not engage
flywheel. Place wrench between the battery stud and the small stud, this
will fully engage the starter and, if all is working correctly, make the engine
turn over. Careful of moving engine and belts.
Jim
91 RTTT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 18:00:10 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Team3S: Need
part # please
I'm at work and unable to get to CAPS, so I'm wondering if someone might be
able to help me out with a part #.
'92 3000GT VR4.
Rear turbo oil feed line.
Thanks in advance. I don't trust the local dealers without having the part
number in hand.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:15:23 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need part # please
I can't recall if the rear turbocharger is considered the "left" or the
"right." Here are the part numbers for both. Perhaps someone else on
the list can clarify which is which:
Right: MD161898
Left: MD174793
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 10:16:51 -0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
greasing the starter?
A while back there was a post on curing a squeaking
sound coming from
the starter by greasing in.
Anyone have details on this? What kind of grease,
what to grease,
etc, etc.
Thanks much,
Glenn
'93 VR-4
noisy starter option
------------------------------
I did a valve job on my '92 VR4 and finished putting it back together
yesterday. When I fired it up I noticed a small oil leak in the rear turbo feed
line. It
seems to be leaking where the feedline goes through the nipple.
I've tightened
it and double checked it and the leak still seems to be
there. I'll change the
line if that is my only option, but I figured I'd ask
and see if anyone has a
suggestion.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:35:10 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension parts for sale
For sale --- Ground control coil overs with camber plates
and GAB struts
--- complete setup. $1100
Great race setup, a little stiff for the street although I have some
different springs that can soften the ride. I have 900 # on the front and 650 #
on the rear and the GAB's are 4 way adjustable in the front and 8 way in the
rear. Feels like a slot car on the track --- those that have chased me on the
track can attest to the capabilities of the setup. I've lowered the car about
1½" and it could go another inch although you'd need the rear adjustable control
arms to get your alignment back.
I have a pair of 350 # springs and a pair of 600 # springs --- the 350's
are for the rear [ 8" ] while the 600's [ 7" ] are for the front. Ground control
sells springs from 275 # to 1400 # for about $55 each.
I have a few pictures available and will probably take a few more when I
pull my wheels to change brake pads.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:51:21 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil leak
Did you get new copper washer rings when you put it together? Those are
supposed to be replaced after removal and need to be on both sides of the
eye-bolt (banjo).
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSent: Wednesday,
February 05, 2003 11:15 AM
I did a valve job on my '92 VR4 and finished putting it back together
yesterday. When I fired it up I noticed a small oil leak in the rear turbo feed
line. It seems to be leaking where the feedline goes through the nipple. I've
tightened it and double checked it and the leak still seems to be there. I'll
change the line if that is my only option, but I figured I'd ask and see if
anyone has a suggestion.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:53:22 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need part # please
I should remind you, to make your repair complete, and to make sure you
have no leaks, you should also change the eye bolts, gaskets and joints.
For the "right," you'll need two eye bolts (MF650102) and four gaskets
(MF660063).
For the "left," you'll need one "joint," (MD145960), one eye
bolt
(MF650102) and three gaskets (MF660063).
- -----Original Message-----
From:
nouveau3@attbi.com
[mailto:nouveau3@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 1:00 PM
I'm at work and unable to get to CAPS, so I'm wondering if someone might be
able to help me out with a part #.
'92 3000GT VR4.
Rear turbo oil feed line.
Thanks in advance. I don't trust the local dealers without having the part
number in hand.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 21:10:29 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Oil leak
The leak is at the end of the oil feed line that connects to the
turbocharger.
This fitting is a flared tube that is in a pipe fitting. This
is not a "banjo
bolt" type fitting and there are no washers
involved.
> Did you get new copper washer rings when you put it together?
Those
> are supposed to be replaced after removal and need to be on both
sides
> of the eye-bolt (banjo).
>
> Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:19:29 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil leak
The "pipe fitting" you are referring to is called a "joint" in Mitsu
lingo. The joint is actually a separate piece from the turbocharger
itself. If the oil tube is leaking at the joint, and tightening it down
didn't help, then you probably need to replace the tube and joint.
Alternatively, you can try to reflare the tube (if that's where the leak is
coming from, as opposed to leaking from the base of the joint), but the
reflaring tool probably costs more than new parts.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
nouveau3@attbi.com
[mailto:nouveau3@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 4:10 PM
The leak is at the end of the oil feed line that connects to the
turbocharger.
This fitting is a flared tube that is in a pipe fitting. This
is not a "banjo
bolt" type fitting and there are no washers involved.
> Did you get new copper washer rings when you put it together?
>
Those are supposed to be replaced after removal and need to
> be on both
sides of the eye-bolt (banjo).
>
> Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:48:59 -0600
From: "bigbucho" <
bigbucho@sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
hey this guy in France has made a widebody kit for our
cars, I like it a
lot, I'm talking with him and trying to get a group buy going... check out
the pics here
Jeff Jackson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 21:54:28 +0000
From:
danielhyde@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Suspension : Tein HA Coilover and JIC Coilover
I am investigating a couple suspension upgrade options. Possibly I
can
solicit some feedback here for input to consider in the decision
process.
My primary goal is to reduce body roll when cornering and secondarily to
lower
the ride stance a moderate amount - mostly for cosmetic reasons.
I'm
fundamentally ok with a result that does produce a "stiffer" ride but I
can't
define the degree of "stiffer" that I am willing to tolerate. My
approach to
solve this uncertainty is to use struts with adjustable
damping.
There seem to be two choices available:
1) Tein HA Coilover
2) JIC
Coilover Suspension Kit FLT-A2
I have assumed for a long time that I would end up with Tein and recently I
noticed 3SX Performance
http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.aspis
showing a demo of the EDFC (Electronic Damping Force Controller)on their
web
site which might be an interesting add-on.
Then...I run across the JIC Coilover Suspension Kit FLT-A2
They appear to provide similar functionality and design.
a) Adjustable
ride height
b) Adjustable dampening (16 or 15 settings)
I am still intrigued by the "potential" future Electronic Damping Force
Controller that Tein seems to be working on which I assume would provide
remote and dynamic ride adjustment.
Any opinions and/or experiences anyone wishes to share?
Thanks
Dan
97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:57:29 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
No offense, but if you want a Corvette, why don't you just buy a
Corvette?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 14:02:13 -0800
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension : Tein HA Coilover and JIC Coilover
Dan,
The EDFC will not be available for our cars on the TEIN HA
kits. The JICs are height adjustable while not altering the spring
compression; something which the HAs don't offer. Both offer excellent
quality as far as coilover upgrades are concerned. TEIN will be offering a
Flex Damper system, which is similar in construction to the JICs in a few
months, FYI.
Fastmax has a complete set of adjustable shocks, camber plates, and ground
control coilovers available (used but not many miles on them) for $1100.
This is cheaper than what both coilover systems can be had for.
Good luck.
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 14:09:23 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
The front looks like an RX7... Never seen it before. I like the back,
Ferrari looking...
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:11:41 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what
do you think of this widebody Kit??
If he's in France, why does he have Missouri license
plates?
-b
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 14:23:39 -0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
It's a Corvette/Ferrari/RX-7 body kit and I don't really like it.
Like Joseph said, if you want one of those cars, why don't you just buy one of
them?
- -Brad
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:34:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
They should post photos of what cheap body kits look like after a year on
the street..
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 17:02:07 -0600
From: "Chris Blackman" <
qbclub13@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1995 SL Stalling and cutting off!!
Hello All,
I just purchased a used 1995 Mitsu
3000GT SL and it has been running great for about a week. Today I stopped at a
red light and the car sputtered and went dead. I placed it in park and restarted
the car and it did it again every I took my foot off of the gas pedal. This is
my first tank of gas that I have let run below 1/4 of a tank so I think maybe I
have trash in the bottom of the tank that is causing this.
The car had a bad auto transmission when I bought it so I
think it must have sat in a garage for awhile before I bought and put in the new
tranny. Any help would be great.
Thanks
Chris Blackman
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:57:30 -0800
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
Anybody know how much weight we would shave with this body? Aerodynamic
effect?
edgar
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 21:44:30 EST
From:
GoblinyTwin@aol.comSubject: Team3S: No
answer yet to dead engine problem????
I took it to a local Auto Lab and they told me that the timing needed
to be
reset and that maybe my heads had to be rebuilt. With the help
of you guys I
was able to take the car apart and put a new timing belt
on.... Now, the
engine would speed but there isn't any signs of life,
no firing no regular
engine starting sound (sounds like 0
compression). I can only hear the
engine turning kind of like any
electric motor. Could it be ignition or
anything else besides damaged
or bent valves.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 21:20:25 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Starter
If you have broken teeth on your flywheel, or if the starter solenoid does
not kick the starter gear out to engage, you will get the symptom that you have
described. The starter will spin, but not crank the motor. Have you
taken the starter off of the car to check it's function? If you do not
know how to check it, most autozone/pep-boys type places will check it for
free.
- -Jeff C.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Provence
Sent: Wednesday,
February 05, 2003 11:20 AM
Thanks Everyone,
I hate to jump ahead but want to try as many options as possible tonight.
Assuming the starter is in good shape, any other suggestions? I checked
the voltage at the battery while attempting to start, checked voltage behind the
connectors, rechecked the grounding strap, disconnected the clutch position
switch, temporarily placed a jumper in the relay, and am now examining my alarm
system for any interference from the starter disable function. I have
managed to print what equates to a novel from the archive and have yet to figure
this out. If this is too rudimentary I will correspond with someone off
the list if anyone is willing.
Thanks again,
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:54:00 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: No answer yet to dead engine problem????
Have someone turn the key while you are watching under the hood. If
the engine turns then the starter is good.
Next, unplug one wire from each coil (Be sure to remember which is which or
label them). Have your friend crank the engine. If you see sparks
coming out of all 3 coils, then they are good.
To verify fuel, disconnect the low pressure return hose from the fuel
pressure regulator and put a short fuel line on it into a clear bottle. Have
friend crank engine again and see if any fuel goes into the bottle.
Recheck your timing on the timing belt.
If everything is good so far, then you have: 1. cranking engine
2. Spark 3. Fuel 4. Correct timing.
If you engine still doesn't start then you have a major compression leak.
Most likely to be bent valves then.
Good luck
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 23:23:45 -0600
From: "bigbucho" <
bigbucho@sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
it looks as though it would save a lot of weight, but I don't know, I could
ask how much it weighs.
I think its cool that someone is trying something new for our cars..just my
2cents..
Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 21:37:47 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what do you think of this widebody Kit??
I don't think the weight savings will be huge. What do they change? 2
bumper covers, those are already plastic. The rear glass? Again, not a huge
deal. Looks like the hatch is stock, as is the hood. The only things they are
changing that are metal, are the 4 fenders, which are replaced with larger
panels. I would estimate that the overall weight is about as much as stock. I
would be stunned if it saves more than 25lbs and will not be surprised if it is
heavier than stock.
Overall looks, I like the back. With non-clear tail lights I think it would
be sweet. I don't like the wide flared fenders, nor do I like the Corvette/RX7
nose. But it does seem to be well-made and fits right.
Tyson
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#73
**************************************