Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, February 4
2003 Volume 02 : Number 072
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 22:43:58 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: wheel
recommendations
Couldn't a simple professional wheel balancing take care of this? I'm sure
they've seen and repaired far worse...
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
[mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 8:36 PM
Wow, I didn't think that the flaking chrome would cause such a drastic
handling problem. Are you sure that this is the only cause of the symptom?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> I don't have the $$ for new wheels, but I cant live with the steering
> wheel shaking.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 22:45:32 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
Here is another outfit that provides wheel repair (cosmetic and worse). I'm
compelled to pass along a recommendation since I had great success with
them.
About a week ago, I hit a curb and bent an 18x9 Enkei RP01 pretty badly.
(Some readers here might recall)
After getting a private tip about Wheels America from a member, I went to
one of their shops located south of Dallas, Texas. Here comes the good
part.
I dropped it off at 4PM this past Friday. I picked it up completely
repaired at 11AM next day! Less than 24 hours and $109 later the thing looked
marvelous. A Discount Tire "spin check" verified they had successfully
de-tweaked a bit of bend in the barrel as well.
Dan
97 VR4 Pearl White
On Monday, February 03, 2003 8:53 PM "Vinny"
vinman3@comcast.net said: <Have them
fixed. There is a place in Bath PA that does such good work that <you
would think they were made yesterday. Alot of my Porsche and BMW/Audi
<buddies have used them and I could not believe they were the same wheel.
< <At least give them a call. <
http://www.wheelcollision.com/
<Vinny
------------------------------
>> I don't have the $$ for new wheels, but I cant live with the
steering
>> wheel shaking.
If you get a wheel for a 94 and up SL, it will clear the bigger brake
calipers. Such wheels are 8 in. wide instead of the 8.5 in. on a TT, but there
are zillions more choices. TireRack, for example, lists 52 different wheels for
SLs, starting at $130, but only 5 for VR4s.
I have SL wheels on my VR4 (Milli Miglias) for street tires, and I ran 97
SL wheels for a while with race tires, and they all work just fine.
In some instances a half inch means a lot, but not for a street wheel.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 22:39:29 -0800
From: Greg Gonzales <
stealth@fitnessolutions.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Possible causes for poor Gas mileage
I am trying to come up with things to check on my that could be related
to poor gas mileage. I used to average about 17 city and 25-27 highway.
Now I am down to 15 city and 22 highway.
My car is a 1992 Stealth TT with 63k on it. Yes the 60k service has been
done on it. The problem started gradually at around 50k then proceeded
to get to the point it is at currently. The plugs were not replaced as I
did it at 45k and the wires as well.
Both O2 sensors have been replaced as well. The car when cold does fall
flat on its face if I get on the gas too quickly. (it did not use to do
this..in its better days..)
Could it be the fuel filter? The fuel filter has not been replaced, a
clogged...or several clogged injectors? The clutch? How do I know if it
is slipping that bad?
What are some other things I can check? and or eliminate. Thanks for the
help
Greg Gonzales 92 RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 21:16:23 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Track insurance coverage - NASA replies:
I got in touch with Jerry Kunzman this afternoon (Director of NASA Pro
Racing), and shared the main concerns that our members have expressed. I
asked him for the latest insurance info from *their* end. Here's his
reply:
- --------------
JK:
I have a lot to add. But I will keep it short.
While I haven't read every policy in CA, I have dealt with most of the main
companies. This is a black and white issue. There are strict
insurance laws in CA. [Consult an attorney- that's my disclaimer.
Read on at your own risk.] The law in CA is very clear: Your
insurance company must pay a claim if your are insured for damage (i.e.
collision), unless what you were doing is listed in your policy as an
"Exclusion."
Please note:
1) Your agent is likely as dumb about this as anyone, even if he /she
is
your friend. If you are an agent and offended by this, then you must
be one of those dummies!
2) Your company is very tight with the actual
POLICY. They refrain from
giving it out. You must call them and
ask them for it. Be firm.
3) READ the exclusions for yourself.
It's not that tough!
4) If the list of EXCLUSIONS includes anything that
could be identified
as NASA's HPDE, then inform me, so I can let every NASA
driver know that the might want to consider another insurance company.
5)
This is a fact: I will help any NASA driver with their insurance
claim,
except any driver that wants me to lie.
6) This is a fact: In over 13 years,
I have dealt with many insurance
companies. I have NEVER seen a claim
denied after I get done talking with
them.*
7) If you feel bad, consider
this: We all pay large premiums for
coverage. For every claim
made there are hundreds of MUCH safer NASA drivers on the streets. Do not
feel bad for claiming what is yours.
* One claim pending that might not get paid is a claim where the driver
lied and got caught. If he told the truth from the beginning, the company
would have paid the claim. The insurance company's investigator told me
this.
Also consider this:
A) There may be some current legislation regarding
this matter that I am
unaware of.
B) I am NOT an attorney, nor do I play
one on TV.
C) Take my words if you like, but do so at your own risk.
Bob- You may post this anywhere you like.
Thanks for bringing this up.
Jerry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 23:57:06 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel recommendations
I didn't say all would not.
On Mon, 3 Feb 2003, Vinny wrote:
> Why won't aftermarket wheels last as long as OEM?
>
curious....
> Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 23:58:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel recommendations
You might have larger issues, no way the chrome can get it off
balance..just isn't enough missing material that far out on the wheel to do
it.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 00:01:12 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel recommendations
IMHO, powdercoat.
On Mon, 3 Feb 2003, Dan Hyde wrote:
> Here is another outfit that provides wheel repair (cosmetic and
> worse). I'm compelled to pass along a recommendation since I had great
> success with them.
>
> Wheels America -
http://www.fixrim.com/>
> About
a week ago, I hit a curb and bent an 18x9 Enkei RP01 pretty
> badly.
(Some readers here might recall)
>
> After getting a private tip
about Wheels America from a member, I went
> to one of their shops
located south of Dallas, Texas. Here comes the
> good part.
>
> I dropped it off at 4PM this past Friday. I picked it up completely
> repaired at 11AM next day! Less than 24 hours and $109 later the thing
> looked marvelous. A Discount Tire "spin check" verified they had
> successfully de-tweaked a bit of bend in the barrel as well.
>
> Dan
>
> 97 VR4 Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 10:49:20 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Larger Throttle Body
There is one shop that does offer larger TBs. But I like to rise the
question what it should be for. I can't se that it is a restriction at all.
If pressure can be hold in the intake manifold until redline then the flow
should not be a problem at all. Otherwise it would drop. Although I'd like
to see a comparison in between two pressure meters, before and after the
TB. If pressure must be larger before to keep the desired boost, then the
thing is a restriction.
At 20:20 03.02.2003 -0800, Andrew Wert wrote:
>I am working on a
rebuild and I would like to up-grade
>my throttle body to a bigger
one. Has anyone
>up-graded their throttle body, and if so what
size
>throttle body was it, where did you get it and what
>did it
come from. Thanx
>
>Andrew - '92 Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 06:25:07 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
I can almost guarantee that is ~not~ the problem.
I have experience with this personally. 99% of the time that someone
complains of a tire that "just can't be balanced" it ends up being either a bent
rim or a tire that is out of force variation.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
Sent: Monday, February
03, 2003 8:36 PM
Wow, I didn't think that the flaking chrome would cause such a drastic
handling problem. Are you sure that this is the only cause of the symptom?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 08:29:52 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Larger Throttle Body
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Wert
Sent: Monday, February
03, 2003 9:20 PM
I am working on a rebuild and I would like to up-grade
my throttle body
to a bigger one. Has anyone
up-graded their throttle body, and if so
what size
throttle body was it, where did you get it and what
did it come
from. Thanx
Andrew - '92 Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 08:48:35 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Larger Throttle Body
Jim at Proflow Design bored mine out. We achieved a 2 mm increase in
diameter and revised the whole shaft that mitsu puts in there stock to a half
shaft for a 4mm increase in vertical flow area. They also clean up the
entire assembly and install a nice new stainless steel butterfly. I felt
an improvement after installing, but more than one thing was done at that
time. I did notice it corrected what can only be described as a part
throttle "gurgle" that I was experiencing at the time. Cost was around
$150-$175 I don't remember.
I've used them twice, once on my 3rd gen eclipse and once on the VR4 and
both times the service was golden.
- -James Mutton
95 Green VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 12:24:47 -0600
From: "Lim, Yong H PV2"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Rattling noise in the back when changing gears
Ok, the only other car w/ manual gear I drove is my friend's 2001 Celica GT
so I'm comparing like 93 VR4 with the experience I had with the Celica. My
friend who is more experienced with a car than I am tells me that the rattling
noise and the vibration I get is because of the nature of the turbo engine, I'm
not really sure if this is right or not.
All right, let me
explain what happens:
I'm driving in my 3rd gear and need to make a
right turn on the next corner. So, I slow down and downshift to 2nd gear and
slowly make a turn. As I make a turn, I feel a rattling noise and
vibration in the rear of the car. Apparently, this stops as I go above 20mph
with a second gear.
My friend tells me to make a slow turn with a
first gear and not second. I do this now and the rattling noise and
vibration is very slight and sometimes none. However, I'd really like to
fix this thing as the noise and the vibration really irritates the crap out of
me. Can someone tell me why I'm experiencing this and how I can go on
about fixing this problem? Any helps would be appreciated, thanks in
advance.
SPC Lim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 12:32:31 -0600
From: "Lim, Yong H PV2"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Any good e-brake boot and shift knob??
Ok, I got the floor mats from 3SI and got the shift boots from this
gottagetshiftboot place. Now, I need a matching e-brake boot and a
shift-knob. I am not really concerned with a e-brake boot as long as the
color is black and it matches pretty well with the shift boot I got. However, I
do want to buy a pretty good shift knob(black) so can anyone recommend me a nice
shift-knob that fits well with the car. Thanks.
SPC Lim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 14:35:22 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Low Coolant Light
I have an intermittent low coolant light. It only comes on when the
car is cold, and even then only when I am stopping. I bought the car 3
months ago in Aspen Colorado (~7,000 ft. elevation) and drove it to
Jacksonville, FL (roughly sea level). I got the low coolant light
right after I arrived, and assumed it was due to the increase in air pressure
due to the altitude change. I had the radiator flushed and the fluid
replaced and had no problems until last week. I have seen no evidence of
puddles (or drips) anywhere near the car, and according to the stock temp gauge,
tempwise I am fine so far.
Recognizing that the cooling system is a completely closed loop, that means
I must have a leak somewhere. Am I correct in this assumption?
If I am correct, does anyone have any suggestions on where to start
looking. I'm betting it is a very slow leak and the fluid is evaporating
before it hits anything. ???
Finally, if I do have a small leak I am also assuming that the cooling
system won't pressurize. Is my assumption correct, and how big a problem
is this?
Thanks,
Ken
'97 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 09:44:22 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
> If you get a wheel for a 94 and up SL, it will clear the
>
bigger brake calipers.
'94-'96 SL wheels are 16x8 7-spoke wheels that had chrome as an optional
upgrade. The 16" wheels will definitely not clear the brake calipers on a
stock 1G or 2G VR-4. '97 and up SL wheels are the 17" ones Rich is talking
about.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 11:53:05 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Low
Coolant Light
Hi
Maybe cooling is getting into cylinders ? Can be some problems with
one HG. But I think it's cheaper just add fluid.
Andrius
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
February 04, 2003 11:35 AM
> I have an intermittent low coolant light. It only comes on when
the
> car is cold, and even then only when I am stopping. I bought
the car
> 3 months ago in Aspen Colorado (~7,000 ft. elevation) and drove
it to
> Jacksonville, FL (roughly sea level). I got the low
coolant light
> right after I arrived, and assumed it was due to the
increase in air
> pressure due to the altitude change. I had the
radiator flushed and
> the fluid replaced and had no problems until last
week. I have seen
> no evidence of puddles (or drips) anywhere near
the car, and according
> to the stock temp gauge, tempwise I am fine so
far.
>
> Recognizing that the cooling system is a completely closed
loop, that
> means I must have a leak somewhere. Am I correct in
this assumption?
>
> If I am correct, does anyone have any
suggestions on where to start
> looking. I'm betting it is a very
slow leak and the fluid is
> evaporating before it hits anything.
???
>
> Finally, if I do have a small leak I am also assuming that
the cooling
> system won't pressurize. Is my assumption correct,
and how big a
> problem is this?
>
> Thanks,
>
Ken
> '97 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 11:54:55 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Low Coolant Light
As long as its not a leaky water pump, its not a huge deal. Check that
first!
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 14:00:52 -0600
From: "Scott J. Cowan" <
sjc0u812@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low Coolant Light
I would second that emotion. Check the water pump. They have
been known to "hide" leaks. There are also the two tubes which run down to
it.
Best,
SJ
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
February 04, 2003 1:54 PM
> As long as its not a leaky water pump, its not a huge deal. Check that
> first!
------------------------------
It might just be the windshield washer reservoir being low. It looks like a
radiator icon. Check that first before you panic. There are two of them, one in
the engine compartment, one in the back.
If you are definitely leaking coolant and can't see puddles, here are two
possibilities:
1. Water pump leak. Pray this is not the problem. This is huge $$$. Crawl
up under the front of the car and look for a drop or two of coolant on the lower
left (driver) side. You will not be able to find the source. It blows out whilst
the car is driving, but doesn't leak while stopped. If you see a drop or two,
this is a VERY GOOD indicator that it's the pump. Have somebody pressure test
it. The dealer can do this for a nominal charge. You MUST get this fixed,
because coolant will eat away the timing belt..
2. Leaky hose or something. Wrap everything you suspect in white paper
towels. Rad hoses, heater hoses, etc. The culprit will reveal itself sooner or
later. Been there, done that.
I bet it's the windshield washer.
Rich/slow old poop.
------------------------------
While we are on the subject of coolant... maybe someone might have a clue
for me.
After my first SCCA event with my car when I got back to the staging area I
had white smoke coming out from under the hood (through the corner in front of
driver) and had that all too familiar sweet smell. I opened the hood and
found coolant on fire wall and other pipes below rear turbo. My thought is
that I might have over revved the engine at some point on the course. The
temp gauge has always stayed normal, so I am not overheating. When I got
home, tried to look for source. Appeared to be from silver pipe that runs along
bottom front of fire wall (it has some black foam over it). At least that was
the only area that still looked wet when I got home. Never had leaks before or
any puddles, and still don't. Once when using my Gtech took car to 7000rpm
in 1-3 gear, and could smell the coolant, so I stopped. That is why I
think it had to do with higher revs. Not using up any coolant.
Any suggestions or ideas
Thanks
Dan Labonte
'94 VR4
------------------------------
1. Make sure it is the coolant level and not the window washer fluid
that is low and triggering a light.
2. If indeed you are loosing coolant, take the y-pipe off and look
for evidence of a leak in the upper hose where it attaches to the thermostat
housing. A small leak here only loses coolant when the car thermostat is
open, with no puddles.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Lovell
[mailto:wklovell@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 1:35 PM
I have an intermittent low coolant light. It only comes on when the
car
is cold, and even then only when I am stopping. I had the
radiator flushed and the
fluid replaced and had no problems until last
week. I have seen no evidence of puddles (or drips) anywhere near the car,
and according to the stock temp gauge, tempwise I am fine so far.
'97 Green VR4
------------------------------
At 01:23 PM 2/4/03 -0700, Labonte, Dan wrote:
>While we are on the
subject of coolant... maybe someone might have a
>clue for me.
After my first SCCA event with my car when I got back to
>the staging
area I had white smoke coming out from under the hood
>(through the
corner in front of driver) and had that all too familiar
>sweet
smell.
Been there, done that.
Sounds like you were low on coolant.
Revving
has nothing to do with it: You ran lots of boost, it overtasked the cooling
system, and you didn't have enuf coolant in the system to cope with it. Our
turbos are water cooled, and big boost cooks the water.
Our cooling systems are absolutely wonderful around town and on the
highway. Until you run too much boost, that is, and then they go south. I am
surprised you didn't see the gauge top out in the red zone. If you were running
an autocross, that would explain it: Not enough time on track to heat up the
entire system, but enough to cook coolant locally.
A small survey I did last year reveals that the problem occurs most in 2nd
gen cars, but nobody really knows why. Some say it's the 6 sp v the 5 sp, or a
different rad. If you continue to run yer 94 hard with big boost, you'll see the
problem more.
I have the exact same problem, as do other 2nd gens who run open track
events, where we run WOT for 20 minutes at a time.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 15:22:12 -0600 (CST)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Splitter to Windshield Washer
I have a 1991 Stealth, R/T TT AWD. When I bought the car the guy told
me that I needed the "Y" piece that made the washer fluid squirt on both sides
of the front windshield. I was wondering if the piece had a real
name. Also, I live in a small town in Missouri and have no clue where I
would find a junk yard that actually had a car like mine. How much should
I expect to pay for this piece if I did find a junk yard with one? Also,
if anyone is parting a car and has that piece, give me a price including
shipping to MO.
Thanks,
Carol Decker
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 15:33:46 -0600 (CST)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel Hub Assembly
After 2 weeks of trying to get all the parts I need to fix the suspension
on my 1991 Stealth R/T TT AWD, I have reached one conclusion: Mitsupartsdirect
is awesome! I had already bought my struts, wheel hub assembly, and brake
pads from my local Autozone. (This is weird to me because towards the end of
last November Autozone said that these parts were dealer only items.
However, much to my surprise a couple months later they are available at
Autozone. My first assumption, not a dealer...they must be cheaper.
Let's just say I was wrong! I saved over $100 going through Shaun at
Mitsupartsdirect. This is not my point however.) I have a question
concerning my rear wheel hub assemblies. I bought them at Autozone, but
when I tried to order them cheaper through Shaun, he told me that they did not
exist. I went back to Autozone, told them I wanted to return them and gave
them my reason, "A dealer told me these parts didn't exist." However, the
guy that was checking me out ! told me that they did exist and that labor
would be more expensive if I just got my wheel bearings because they had to pack
them into the wheel hub assembly. I told him that Shaun had told me that I
had to buy a bigger piece that was a blahblah axle. I can't remember the
true part name. The guys at Autozone made me worry that I might not be
able to get the wheel bearings packed correctly. To make this really
short, do the hub assemblies exist or did Autozone have the wrong part for
me? If they do exist, since I am not getting it done at a dealer would it
be smarter for me to have the whole assembly replaced? I don't want anyone
to hurt my car!!!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 18:25:36 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Splitter to Windshield Washer
Go to a pet store and buy one for an air compressor. Afaik it should be the
same thing...
Alex
'95 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chad and Carol Decker
Sent:
Tuesday, February 04, 2003 4:22 PM
I have a 1991 Stealth, R/T TT AWD. When I bought the car the guy told
me that I needed the "Y" piece that made the washer fluid squirt on both sides
of the front windshield. I was wondering if the piece had a real
name. Also, I live in a small town in Missouri and have no clue where I
would find a junk yard that actually had a car like mine. How much should
I expect to pay for this piece if I did find a junk yard with one? Also,
if anyone is parting a car and has that piece, give me a price including
shipping to MO.
Thanks,
Carol Decker
------------------------------
> I have a question concerning my rear wheel hub assemblies. I
bought
> them at Autozone, but when I tried to order them cheaper through
> Shaun, he told me that they did not exist. I went back to
Autozone,
> told them I wanted to return them and gave them my reason, "A
dealer
> told me these parts didn't exist."
Holy mackerel! That means I have a nonexistent part on my car! We just
installed a new rear hub/axle on my 94 VR4 ($142 from Mitsubishi).
>However, the guy that was checking me out !
> told me that they
did exist and that labor would be more expensive if
>I just got my wheel
bearings because they had to pack them into the
>wheel hub
assembly.
I think he means "press" them onto the hub/axle. Not pack. Pack means to
stuff grease into the bearing.
> I told him that Shaun had told me that I had to buy a bigger piece
> that was a blahblah axle. I can't remember the true part
name. The
> guys at Autozone made me worry that I might not be able
to get the
> wheel bearings packed correctly.
That would only be true if the hub/axle assembly was scored or bent.
> To make this really short, do the hub assemblies exist or did
>
Autozone have the wrong part for me? If they do exist, since I am not
> getting it done at a dealer would it be smarter for me to have the
> whole assembly replaced? I don't want anyone to hurt my
car!!!
Here's how it works:
The mechanic removes the old hub/axle shaft out as
a complete unit, pulls off the old bearings, presses on new bearings, installs a
grease seal, and puts it back together. Should take an experienced guy about 30
minutes per side, if he doesn't run into a problem -- such as a worn hub and
bent axle that have to be driven out from the back side with a hammer.
The hub/axle is about a foot or so long, has a hub at one end where the
wheel bolts up, and a foot-long axle shaft extending out. It requires two sets
of bearings -- an inner and an outer, which mount about 6 in. apart on the
shaft. We got our bearings from a supplier (not the dealer) and they were $25
and $34 each times two (both axles), or $118 for the bearings. The axle also
requires new grease seals at $40 each, so there's another $80. We're up to $198
without the hub and axles.
How much did you pay for your hub and axle? Did it come with bearings? If
so, replacement should be simple.
Somebody out there does not know what they are doing.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 16:20:50 -0600 (CST)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Hub Assemblies Revisited
merritt@cedar-rapids.net,
Everything
you just told me is basically what the Autozone guy said. I had the hub
assemblies purchased already but I took them back. I ordered the bearings
and dust seals from Mitsupartsdirect. I paid a total of $70 for all 4
bearings and both dust seals. Labor around here runs $38/hour. The
hub assemblies were $75 each. Therefore, I paid less to purchase the
bearings separately. Thank you for the information though, I am thinking I
should have just kept the hub assemblies.
Thanks, Carol Decker 91' R/T Stealth TT AWD
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 16:12:56 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Splitter to Windshield Washer
> > I have a 1991 Stealth, R/T TT AWD. When I bought the car
the guy
> > told me that I needed the "Y" piece that made the washer
fluid
> > squirt on both sides of the front windshield.
> Go to a pet store and buy one for an air compressor. Afaik it
>
should be the same thing...
Or any auto parts store and look for a "vacuum tee" or better yet, a
"vacuum Y". It's just a piece of plastic that has to hold washer fluid and
a little pressure. You need the correct diameter - 3/16" should work, and
1/4" could probably be made to work with a little shoving.
- --Erik
------------------------------
At 04:20 PM 2/4/03 -0600, Chad and Carol Decker
wrote:
>merritt@cedar-rapids.net,
>Everything you just told me is
basically what the Autozone guy said. I
>had the hub assemblies
purchased already but I took them back. I
>ordered the bearings and
dust seals from Mitsupartsdirect. I paid a
>total of $70 for all 4
bearings and both dust seals. Labor around here
>runs
$38/hour. The hub assemblies were $75 each.
Those are GREAT prices!
> Therefore, I paid less to purchase the bearings separately.
Thank you
> for the information though, I am thinking I should have just
kept the
> hub assemblies.
Unless the hub assemblies came with bearings and seals (mine didn't), you
don't need them.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 17:50:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Bret Duvall <
teeminus@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Safe Wheel Sizes With Stock Suspension Height
Hello all-
I am new to the list(yesterday!), and I was wondering
what wheel
diameter increase (18's,19's) would work on
my newly purchased '93 VR4,
leaving the factory
suspension the way it is. Also, maybe some personal
recommendations, or experiences that I might want to consider when picking out
my size.
Thanks
- -Bret
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 19:59:34 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Safe Wheel Sizes With Stock Suspension Height
I wouldn't go bigger than 19's at all, however, I know that 20's will
fit. In all actuality, anything bigger than 18" is really not needed, and
will only hurt the vehicles performance.
If it were me, some 275/35-18 on a 18x9.5" wheel would be my 1st choice,
and second would be 265/35-18 on a 18x8.5" wheel, or some combination
thereof...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bret Duvall
Sent: Tuesday,
February 04, 2003 7:51 PM
Hello all-
I am new to the list(yesterday!), and I was wondering
what wheel
diameter increase (18's,19's) would work on
my newly purchased '93 VR4,
leaving the factory
suspension the way it is. Also, maybe some personal
recommendations, or experiences that I might want to consider when picking out
my size.
Thanks
- -Bret
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 18:08:31 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Splitter to Windshield Washer
> I have a 1991 Stealth, R/T TT AWD. When I bought the car the guy
told
> me
that I needed the "Y" piece that made the washer fluid
squirt on both sides of the front windshield. I was wondering if the piece
had a real name.
I don't know the name of it but you can buy it at any auto parts store for
less than $1. I had to replace mine as well since it was broken into 3
pieces when I bought the car. Just go to the vacuum fittings section and
find an appropriate 3 way fitting. I think it is around 3/16" or so.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 23:20:18 EST
From:
GoblinyTwin@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
How do I know if my valves are bent.....????????
My 94 TT just turned off on me. I tried to restart it right away and
the
motor did not turn; just the starter making a high pitched sound.
Then, I
took it to a local Auto Lab and they told me that the timing needed
to be
reset and that maybe my heads had to be rebuilt. With the help
of you guys I
was able to take the car apart and put a new timing belt
on.... Now, the
engine would speed but there isn't any signs of life,
no firing no regular
engine starting sound. I can only hear the
starter spinning and the engine
turning kind of like any electric
motor. Could it be ignition or anything
else besides damaged or bent
valves.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 21:27:55 -0600 (CST)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How do I know if my valves are bent??
GoblinyTwin,
I have a 92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. When my timing
slipped and my valves were bent my engine would still work fine. I had to
replace 8 intake valves. However, my timing belt never actually broke, it was
just split and frayed enough for the timing to slip. If your timing belt
did brake I would have your valves reseated and see if they are bent. If
they are, replace them. However, I think you have a bigger problem.
I am just a girl that has never worked on cars before, just had a lot of
problems with the ones I happen to purchase.
- -Carol
1991 Stealth R/T TT
AWD
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#72
**************************************
