Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, February 3
2003 Volume 02 : Number 071
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Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 22:41:38 -0500
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri"
<
cerri@contractor.net>
Subject:
Team3S: General tire question - OT?
Searched the net but no luck so far....help!!
There is a 4 digit number on each tire, in this case 2702, which I think
stands for the week and year of tire manufacture.
Is that correct, or am I not remembering this correctly?
Reply direct if this is OT, and in that case, sorry.
Thx
Andre
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 22:46:20 -0500
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri"
<
cerri@contractor.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Springs
Well the Eibachs are on at last and more power to me.
But I have a curious question....
I bought a set of low mileage struts from a guy on ebay with original
springs attached, from a 93 or 94 I think, ECS 3000GT SL to replace my worn out
85k ones. They're definitely ECS struts (doh), but I just realized that the
coils are different to those that I took off my 92 SL. I would describe this as
5 coils on the 93/93 and 6 on the 92, front and rear.
Do I have an odd set of springs here (NA sprigs maybe?), or did they change
at some point (2nd gen?).
I have pix if anyone cares to take a look. If so, specify how fat they can
be(max 1.1mb or so each).
Thx
Andre
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vinny
Sent: Sunday, February 02,
2003 10:13 AM
On that page they show four downpipes, one says CALI SPEC and the other
just FED SPEC. So does that mean that everyone who does not live in CALI
has the FED spec without the precats?
http://www.3sxperformance.com/exhaust.aspAny
idea?
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 22:04:55 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: General tire question - OT?
You are correct. The last 4 digits of the DOT number do indicate the
week and the year of manufacture.
In your case, the 27th week of 2002
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andre and Sylvia Cerri
Sent:
Sunday, February 02, 2003 9:42 PM
Searched the net but no luck so far....help!!
There is a 4 digit number on each tire, in this case 2702, which I think
stands for the week and year of tire manufacture.
Is that correct, or am I not remembering this correctly?
Reply direct if this is OT, and in that case, sorry.
Thx
Andre
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 23:23:29 -0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: interior parts.
Hello all,
Are the interior parts interchangeable between the different model
years? I am referring to things like door panels and seat belts.
Joseph
93-vr4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:52:24 -0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fuel Smell - Solved!
I'm posting this so it will appear in the archive.
Symptoms: Fuel smell coming from car for up to 3
hours after
engine turned off. No visible drips.
Getting gas mileage seems ok
(19mpg while having
'fun').
Cause: 2 fuel injector o-rings damaged on the rear
fuel
rail. This would allow fuel to slowly leak while
there was pressure in
the fuel rail.
Solution: Replaced all 6 injector o-rings (MD614813),
sheet - fuel
injector (rubber bushing - top of
injector) MD614805, and fuel injector
insulator
(MD087060) rubber bushing bottom of injector. I
followed
Jeff's instructions
http://www.stealth316.com/2-injectors.htm
Glenn
'93 VR-4 with 6 new o-rings and other rubber bits.
Thanks again Jeff!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 13:42:52 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: STILL SMOKING
Also get your compression checked (cold and hot) and decide if something
needs to be addressed. Check your cranckcase vent too if that hasn't been
mentioned.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan
[mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 6:05 PM
One thing you want to check is for oil in the Y-pipe. My turbo seals dried
out over the course of a few months once and cause smoking due to oil getting
into the intake. The way to check that is easy. Find the big plastic Y-Pipe
under your hood and remove the 2 hose clamps that hold the 2 rubber hoses to the
pipe. Check inside for oil, they should be bone dry. If there is any oil inside,
you found one cause.
Tyson
PS, this was a turbo car right?
------------------------------
>Cause: 2 fuel injector o-rings damaged on the rear
>fuel
rail. This would allow fuel to slowly leak while
>there was pressure
in the fuel rail.
Was it leaking into the engine?
I am reminded of the time I worked crew on a TransAm car. We pushed it to
the grid at Sebring, but it wouldn't start. Wouldn't even turn over. Pushing it
just locked the rear tires. The engine was completely locked up.
The engine boys popped the spark plugs, cranked the motor, and it pumped
out gas in 6-ft streams. Turns out the fuel injection system was faulty, and it
had pumped all 8 cylinders full of gasoline whilst the car was parked, so the
motor couldn't turn over.
I guess the lesson here is: if you smell gas, and the engine won't turn
over, pull the plugs and see if the engine is full of gas.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 14:24:33 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird Headlight Problem
Turns out that this was the cause. In popping the old bulbs back in,
I noticed that the harness looked funny on the driver's side bulb. It had
in fact partly melted around the connector and the contact would alright for a
second or so and then disconnect. The Xenon bulbs themselves both work
interchangeably (left/right), but whichever is in the drivers side harness will
go out after a few seconds. The original bulbs work fine (both sides), so
I guess I'm back to yella.
I'm being lazy now, does anyone know the stock wattage on the low beams?
The Xenon's are 100 watt.
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 57k miles, Open Air Intake, Blitz
DSBC, Blitz DATT Wichita, KS
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Merlin916@aol.com
[mailto:Merlin916@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 10:41 PM
Generally, manufacturers will increase the wattage of the bulbs because the
blue film blocks light, and as such the bulb needs to be brighter to illuminate
the road. This is done by increasing the resistance in the bulb, which I
have seen melt factory wiring harnesses, and may be causing the problem you're
experiencing. Just a guess, but its definitely probable. Try putting the
stocks back in and see if it goes away.
Joe
93 RT/TT
02 WRX
------------------------------
Ok, you all, I just won an auction on eBay for $25, on the Folia Tech
Caliper Paint that I heard so much about, and was recommended to use to paint
the raised letters on my front rocker cover.
I was wondering if anyone could offer tips or suggestions on doing this
?
Do need a paintbrush to apply the paint ?
Do I need a special clear, or does it come with one ? If it comes
with a clear, can I use it to cover the rocker cover when I finish polishing it
also ?
Thanks all. Now all I need is the spare rocker cover so I can take
the time to polish up mine.
Anthony Melillo
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:49:51 -0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Smell - Solved!
The o-rings seal the injector to the fuel rail. Any
leakage would
likely end up on the intake manifold and
vaporize due to the heat. You
can't see any of this
as the plenum blocks your view.
Thanks to Paul(luvbyts) who helped me diagnose
Glenn
- --- "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net"
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> >Cause: 2 fuel injector o-rings damaged on the
rear
> >fuel rail. This would allow fuel to slowly leak
>
>while there was pressure in the fuel rail.
> >
> Was it
leaking into the engine?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 14:26:01 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Track insurance coverage (was: Re: California Speedway --- signup
time)
I recently attended a High Performance Driving School event at Thunderhill
Raceway Park and for the first time they made a big point about insurance
companies "getting wise" to events like the HPDS at Thunderhill and NASA
HPDE and moving toward NOT covering them. The Thunderhill staff advised us
to assume we had zero insurance coverage. Several spoke up and indicated
that they had contacted their insurance companies prior to the event (CSAA
was one of them) and they were told that they would be covered at the HPDS
event.
I'm thinking that the situation is changing and that someday in the future
(hopefully a long way off) we may have zero insurance coverage for these
events.
A note to the Team3S and 3Si web site administrators: We have some lists of
dealers and parts suppliers on these web sites. I'm wondering if it would
be useful to have members submit the policy of their insurance carriers and
post them, updated from time to time as the policies change.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 19:27:05 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
wheel recommendations
I need new wheels
Mitsu rims are 420 apiece. . this is ridiculous.
So can anyone recommend a nice, light weight, inexpensive
wheel.
If any1 can refer me to a chrome wheel, that would be appreciated as
well.
thank you
mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 18:27:42 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel recommendations
If you want it to last..OEM.
If you want to contemplate repairs & replacements, go with a
lightweight, inexpensive wheel.
And..who said you have to buy OEM wheels at the dealer?
> I need new wheels
>
> Mitsu rims are 420 apiece. . this
is ridiculous.
>
> So can anyone recommend a nice, light
weight, inexpensive wheel.
>
> If any1 can refer me to a chrome
wheel, that would be appreciated as
> well.
>
> thank
you
>
> mike
> 97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 21:04:52 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
Why won't aftermarket wheels last as long as
OEM?
curious....
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 20:15:31 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
> > If you want it to last..OEM.
> > If you want to
contemplate repairs & replacements, go with a
> > lightweight,
inexpensive wheel.
> Why won't aftermarket wheels last as long as OEM?
>
curious....
Lightweight,
Strong,
or Inexpensive
You only get to pick two. The stock wheels would be somewhere in the
middle of all those. They aren't lightweight, they aren't inexpensive, but
they are somewhat strong (but not pothole-proof - particularly the 18"
variety).
Sometimes there are exceptions to the rule, but that's the general
idea.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 21:17:42 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
My wheels-97 SL style, are chrome. Unfortunately, the chrome on the
back of
the wheel, inside, has peeled because of
A-road
salt
B-terrible quality
C-Stupid Mitsu for chroming the back when it
wasn't necessary
Now the wheels have peeled chrome all in back, and its causing an imbalance
in the tires. I have Stripped off all the chrome I can and sanded it down,
but because I cant sand down every spot exactly the same, I cant get them
balanced right. Rechroming or powder coating them wont work, because again,
getting everything even in back would be pretty impossible, and it only
takes
a tiny weight to counter balance the weights I have on.
I don't have the $$ for new wheels, but I cant live with the steering wheel
shaking.
I live in NJ, so those of you in warm weather climates wont have a problem.
I
have taken care of the wheels I assure you.
If anyone has any ideas, I'm listening. New wheels are 421 apiece,
and new
ones will do the same thing anyway. meanwhile the new tires I put on
keep
wasting away.
Sorry for the length, but I'm pretty upset by this. This whole experience
has
made me almost wanna sell the car and definitely made me not wanna buy a
Mitsubishi again. On a Mirage I can understand this happening, but a 33,000
dollar car it should not be. You don't always get what you pay for.
Mike-
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 19:35:32 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
Wow, I didn't think that the flaking chrome would cause such a drastic
handling problem. Are you sure that this is the only cause of the symptom?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> I don't have the $$ for new wheels, but I cant live with the steering
> wheel shaking.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 21:36:48 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
there is ALOT of chrome back there
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 21:53:11 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wheel recommendations
Have them fixed. There is a place in Bath PA that does such good work
that you would think they were made yesterday. Alot of my Porsche and
BMW/Audi buddies have used them and I could not believe they were the same
wheel.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Sent: Monday,
February 03, 2003 9:35 PM
> Wow, I didn't think that the flaking chrome would cause such a drastic
> handling problem. Are you sure that this is the only cause of the
> symptom?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 20:20:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Larger Throttle Body
I am working on a rebuild and I would like to up-grade
my throttle body
to a bigger one. Has anyone
up-graded their throttle body, and if so
what size
throttle body was it, where did you get it and what
did it come
from. Thanx
Andrew - '92 Stealth
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#71
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