Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Saturday, February 1 2003  Volume 02 : Number 069




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 08:53:44 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front clip?

It's the front half of the car.  It will look like someone literally cut
the front end off with a chainsaw.  It should have the engine, trans,
transfer case, front suspension, steering and body stuff.  Body shops
use them when they've got half a car totaled and the other half in
pretty good condition.  Cut two bad ones apart and weld them together to
get one good one.  It's far more common then most people think.

The only reason I think it's overpriced is because it's not guaranteed
against DOA.  If he pay's $4500 to get a scrap half with a non-working
engine/trans/transfer it's a waste.  If they're all in GREAT working
condition, newly rebuilt, strong and guaranteed I'd say 4-4.5K was an ok
deal.  Tyson, I know it's a long shot but have you been through the
local wrecking yards?

- -James

- -----Original Message-----
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com [mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 6:06 AM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front
clip?

I agree that it is overpriced. What's a "front clip"?

Philip

- ----------------------------------------------

I was hoping to get a bit more feedback on this guys... I got 2 replies
on 3SI saying that its too much $$$. James here says its too much as
well. I tend to agree. Anyone know of another source for a clip?

Tyson

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 17:18:11 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2

I assume by "lash caps" Rich means our rocker arms.

Why would new rocker arms make any difference in the ticking noise? Can't the
oil jet/opening in the old arm just be cleaned (sorry, I haven't looked at
these closely yet)? Now if the needle bearings in the roller were damaged I
could see why replacement would be needed.

I did notice in CAPS that unlike the "rocker arm lash adjusters" (the lifters)
that changed in January 1997 (1997 1/2 model), the rocker arms are *the same*
for all years of DOHC turbos.

Rich, did you also install new lifters?

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard L. Barron" <radanc@cox.net>
To: "'John Sheehan'" <johns@kyso.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 4:30 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2

I had my cams reground and I mentioned the lifter ticking problem. They
said they would send the cams with lash caps and since then, no ticking
after install.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 11:15:50 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front clip?

At 08:15 PM 1/30/03 -0800, Tyson Varosyan wrote:
>I was hoping to get a bit more feedback on this guys... I got 2 replies on
>3SI saying that its too much $$$. James here says its too much as well. I
>tend to agree. Anyone know of another source for a clip?
>
Buy a whole car. I've seen high mileage 3000GTs going for less than $5K,and cars with trashed engines for $3K. In fact, there's one available in Cedar Rapids with a spun bearing for $3K. It was offered to me a month or so ago, but I dunno what I'd do with another car.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 12:17:20 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2

> Can't the oil jet/opening in the old arm just be cleaned (sorry, I haven't
> looked at these closely yet)?
>

Should be.  I cleaned the ones in my Talon twice when I had it.  There are
very good write ups on the process at the DSM.org site in the VFAQs.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/lifters.html

I had thought about doing the same to my Stealth, but realized how long it
took (first time any way) on the 16 in the Talon and thought, "Hey, now I've
got 24!  Do I really want to do that again?  Why not replace them with
better ones?".

Are the lifters/lash adjusters in the later model years that much better?
Does anyone know if they really help?

Thanks,

-Patrick

Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 58k miles, Open Air Intake, Blitz DSBC, Blitz DATT
Wichita, KS

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 13:16:04 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Part Numbers and Sizes

Having recently been through this with 3 different dealers, I'll share my
experience.  I have a 1995 VR-4, but CAPS lists the same gaskets (except
one, as noted) for all years.

The part number for BOTH the inlet and outlet side of the catalytic
converter is MB687004 (PNCs 13010C and 13010D).  This is the correct part
number and your Mitsu dealer can get it for you if they try hard enough.

The problem is that the Mitsu computer in the dealership is going to tell
the parts guy that MB687004 has been superceded by MR323619.  MR323619 is
the wrong size (too small) for the catalytic converter gaskets.  Be polite,
tell the parts guy that his computer is telling him the wrong thing, and ask
for MB687004 anyway.  They won't like it when you tell them that you know
something that their computer doesn't, but just be nice about it and you
should be able to get what you need.  If all else fails, take your catalytic
converter in and ask for a MR323619 and show the parts guy that it isn't the
right gasket.

MB687002:  Front Precat -> O2 Housing
MB687002:  Front Precat -> Downpipe
MB687002:  '91-'93 Rear O2 housing -> Downpipe
MB687015:  '94-'99 Rear O2 housing -> Downpipe
MR323619:  Supercedes MB687015
MB687004:  Downpipe -> Catalytic Converter
MB687004:  Catalytic Converter -> Rear Exhaust
MR323619:  Computer says supercedes MB687004, but it DOESN'T
 

John at Norco says he's corrected the problem with MB687004 in his computers
and I've gone through this with Rockville recently, too.  Both places were
able to get me an authentic MB687004 gasket within a few days.

- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 19:03:33 EST
From: RP5050@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: STILL SMOKING

I KNOW SOMEONE CAN CONFIRM THE ANSWER TO MY PROBLEM, THAT IS MY ENGINE SMOKES
WHEN IDLING AND THE LONGER IT IDLES THE WORST IT SMOKES.   COULD THIS BE THE
VALVES SEALS & VALVE GUIDES BEING BAD DUE TO SITTING FOR AT LEAST 2 YEARS
WITHOUT EVEN STARTING THE ENGINE FOR ALL THIS TIME.

                                                     HELP !!      91 STEALTH
ES
                                                              THANKS     RON

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 17:40:06 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: STILL SMOKING

Before you consider any major repairs, loosen your engine speed adjust screw
until it is almost all the way out.  The screw is in top of the throttle
body towards the front of the car.  If it is turned too tight, the ECU will
try to keep the engine idling correctly by dumping burning more fuel.  This
makes a rich A/F mix and will make the car smoke at idle.  If loosening this
screw solves the problem, then go through the steps outlined in the service
manual and adjust your idle speed.  If you are a A/F guage, then that should
tell you right away if you are running rich at idle.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 18:04:57 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: STILL SMOKING

One thing you want to check is for oil in the Y-pipe. My turbo seals dried
out over the course of a few months once and cause smoking due to oil
getting into the intake. The way to check that is easy. Find the big plastic
Y-Pipe under your hood and remove the 2 hose clamps that hold the 2 rubber
hoses to the pipe. Check inside for oil, they should be bone dry. If there
is any oil inside, you found one cause.

Tyson

PS, this was a turbo car right?

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 12:35:34 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: FS: Side marker/turn light from '95 vr4

when i did my '99 conversion, the body shop lost the old side marker, so
they bought me a new one.

It's brand new, comes with a spify mitsu box (i opened it to take pics,
will seal right back up)... it's supposed to be the driver side one...

pics are here

http://www.kolosy.com/pics/forsale

make me an offer. These cost ~70 from the dealer.

Please contact me off list...

Thanks,

Alex.
'95 VR4, '99 FrontEnd

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #69
**************************************