Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, January 31
2003 Volume 02 : Number
068
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Jan 2003 23:56:02 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
zMax
I heard that this is nothing but cheap mineral oil (worse than
straight
motor oil!) with pretty colored dyes so that it has an aesthetic
look on the
shelf in order to make you buy it. The lawsuit was filed because
this
additive does absolutely nothing beneficial and can in fact hurt
your
engine. Stay away from this one.
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
Mobil 1 15W-50 Full Synthetic Oil, Mobil 1 Filter, no
additives...ever.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 10:06:08
-0600
From: "Lim, Yong H PV2" <
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Is this bad luck or what...
Well, this morning when I was heating
up my car in the parking lot to go to
work, my car trembled all of a
sudden. I was like what the hell and went
out to see what
happened. And this PFC(it's a female and she's known for
causing
trouble after trouble) is asking me if she hit my car or not. And
guess
what, she sure did hit my left rear of the car. I should have
called
the MP right there but I didn't anything about this so I just got her
work
number and stuff. She was telling me that she will pay for it but
I am
finding out that she's in other car accident right now. So I think
I'm
going to her insurance company to get my money after all. I went to
the
nearby Mitsu auto shop and got quoted 486 for a repair. Now, I have
to go
to MP station this noon to go and file an accident report. I
really hope
this kind of incident doesn't happen to me agan, at least while
I'm
stationed here in fort sill(got a year left).
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:03:33
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tein HA install
Expect in what sense ??? threads
recently indicate that the JIC
system is superior although it does cost a few
hundred more. expect
ride quality to suffer --- I've heard it's a little
stiffer than the stock
sport setting and gets harder as you increase the
shock settings.
I have a race mode GC setup and would not care to drive it on
areas
where they have frost and the roads that result.
As to install,
minor mechanical skills are required --- and maybe a
spring compressor to
assemble the JIC product, I'm not sure
about
Tien.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
>
Hello All,
>
> Has anyone out there installed the Tein HA
coilovers. I am thinking
> about getting a set and am just wondering what
I can expect from it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:05:53
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front clip?
JDM stand for
Japanese Domestic Market, kind of like OEM is Original
Equipment
Manufacturer.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
What the heck is JDM ???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 10:49:33
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: zMax
Of course..thier commercials are just as useless as
Mobil1 cooking oil on
a frying pan..
On Wed, 29 Jan 2003, Riyan
Mynuddin wrote:
> I heard that this is nothing but cheap mineral oil
(worse than straight
> motor oil!) with pretty colored dyes so that it has
an aesthetic look on the
> shelf in order to make you buy it. The lawsuit
was filed because this
> additive does absolutely nothing beneficial and
can in fact hurt your
> engine. Stay away from this one.
>
>
Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
> Mobil 1 15W-50 Full Synthetic Oil, Mobil
1 Filter, no additives...ever.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 12:51:25
-0500
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
I've also noticed this. Too much or too little
seems to agitate the tick.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on
1/29/03 11:52 PM, Dan Hyde at
danielhyde@attbi.com
scribbled:
>
> DO NOT FILL TO THE FULL LINE ON YOUR DIP STICK -
back her off a little when
> you change oil - just a cup is all. You will
notice a difference if your car
> is like mine. I believe the full line is
right on the border of causing
> crank induced oil agitation. I have
been curious about this for some time.
> Are the crank lobes indeed at
such a close margin of clearance to oil in the
> pan that a full or slight
over full causes foaming? I'm convinced this must
> be true but I have
never had this engine apart to try and measure.
>
> At the end of
the day, possibly the brand of oil you use may be less
> important than
how full you fill? I don't know... A lot of this is
> conjecture I admit
and your mileage may vary!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 19:30:41
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Getrag failures - important information from Mitsu Europe
Since I
had a little annyoing shifting into second on my 96'3000GT I was
at
Mitsubishi Switzerland today.I met the chief mechanic person that
is
responsible for all technical stuff around the Mitsubishi models.
After
asking him about the TSB and the tranny failures in the US he told me
the
following facts :
- - All cars made for the US market do have a
different tranny that the rest
of the world
- - The trannies from Getrag
made for the european market has thicker and
strengthened shafts
- - The
trannies for EU cars do have a different gear ratio in the transfer
diff as
well the rear diff to allow lower rotational speed of the driveshaft
at very
high speeds
- - The failure rate of trannies in Europe is 0.1% ... most due
to using cheap
or wrong oil after a clutch change
Now, they had two
3000GT on the lift with failures of the trannies ... both
were imports from
the US. One of them had a crack in the transfer case and
many broken stuff as
there was somethign that got blocked. He was quoted by
a cost of $10'000 for
the repair ... ouch. He finally got some parts from
the US and was able to
minimize the costs of repair to about $2500. The TSB
had nothing to do with
that.
Last but not least, he told me about a comprehensive oil test
Mitsubishi
made in the high north of Europe, Norway. They even took a 3000GT
with them
as they knew it is hard to shift on cold ambient. They tested 12
different
tranny oils of different brands on all Mitsu cars. To make it
short, the
best oil for the Getrag trannies is the actual version of Castrol
Synthrans
(fully synthetic). Mitsu highly recommends this to be changed at
the
90'000km service (together with the timign belt) or the same time the
clutch
must be changed too. They DO NOT recommend to use this oil in the
diffs at
all as the thicker dyno oil is working much better regarding wear
and noise.
regarding tranny or diff oil change, they told me that it is only
necessary
to change it once every 90'000km. But it should also be changed if
the
clutch plate shows signs of overheating as the oils are sensitive for
such
high heat situations.
My car got their oil recommendation after
the discussion and after driving a
view miles I feel that the diff noise I
heard is gone as well the shifting
becomes better than it was before. It
seems that they really know their
stuff andf I follow ther recommendations
(well I always did so far)
Roger, Switzerland
93' & 96'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 12:02:28
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
Agreed, My NA DOHC is the same. Too little
or too much oil acerbates the
tic.
The 7K + fix seems to work for me also,
rev the heck out of it, it LIKES it!
Pete Rivenburg
93 3000GT SL black
commuto-box (but I LOOK good!)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Desert Fox [mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
I've also noticed this. Too
much or too little seems to agitate the tick.
- --
Paul/.
95 black
3000GT VR-4
on 1/29/03 11:52 PM, Dan Hyde at
danielhyde@attbi.com
scribbled:
>
> DO NOT FILL TO THE FULL LINE ON YOUR DIP STICK -
back her off a little
when
> you change oil - just a cup is all. You
will notice a difference if your
car
> is like mine. I believe the full
line is right on the border of causing
> crank induced oil
agitation. I have been curious about this for some
time.
> Are
the crank lobes indeed at such a close margin of clearance to oil
in
the
> pan that a full or slight over full causes foaming? I'm
convinced this
must
> be true but I have never had this engine apart to
try and measure.
>
> At the end of the day, possibly the brand of
oil you use may be less
> important than how full you fill? I don't
know... A lot of this is
> conjecture I admit and your mileage may
vary!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 11:07:51
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Getrag failures - important information from Mitsu
Europe
I've decided to sell my JIC Coilover setup. The suspension
has about 4000 miles on it. The handling provided by this setup are
absolutely jaw dropping. Handling is far very neutral, and overall grip is
unbelievable. Very confidence inspiring. I still get a stupid grin
on my face after taking tight corners faster than I every thought a 2-ton car
was capable of. Heck, I'd be impressed with this level of performance in a
3000 pound car! Body roll is virtually eliminated. Compared to stock
suspension with H&R springs, and a friend's stock suspension with sway bars,
the JIC setup is in its own class.
I love the handling of
the JICs and it makes me sad to do this, but it's just too stiff for the
terrible roads I have to drive on every day here in rainy western
Washington. On smooth roads the ride quality is suprisingly good. On
slighly rough roads, it's not as cushy as stock but still not
uncomfortable. On truly rough roads (construction zone type stuff), it's
pretty harsh. Even on the roughest roads it's not punishing; it'll spill
your coffee, but it won't rattle your fillings. If my area had more smooth
road and less construction zone level roads, I'd absolutely keep it. If
you live in a warm, dry state where the majority of the roads are good, or your
car is mainly for track duty, this is your DREAM suspension seutp.
I'm
asking $1375. Retail is $1850, going price at the 3/S shops is $1750. I'd
consider new or low-mileage stock shocks in partial trade.
Feel
free to ask any questions!
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 11:09:19
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale - JIC FLT-A2 Suspension
I've decided to sell my JIC
Coilover setup. The suspension has about 4000 miles on it. The
handling provided by this setup are absolutely jaw dropping. Handling is
far very neutral, and overall grip is unbelievable. Very confidence
inspiring. I still get a stupid grin on my face after taking tight corners
faster than I every thought a 2-ton car was capable of. Heck, I'd be
impressed with this level of performance in a 3000 pound car! Body roll is
virtually eliminated. Compared to stock suspension with H&R springs,
and a friend's stock suspension with sway bars, the JIC setup is in its own
class.
I love the handling of the JICs and it makes me sad
to do this, but it's just too stiff for the terrible roads I have to drive on
every day here in rainy western Washington. On smooth roads the ride
quality is suprisingly good. On slighly rough roads, it's not as cushy as
stock but still not uncomfortable. On truly rough roads (construction zone
type stuff), it's pretty harsh. Even on the roughest roads it's not
punishing; it'll spill your coffee, but it won't rattle your fillings. If
my area had more smooth road and less construction zone level roads, I'd
absolutely keep it. If you live in a warm, dry state where the majority of
the roads are good, or your car is mainly for track duty, this is your DREAM
suspension seutp.
I'm asking $1375. Retail is $1850, going price at
the 3/S shops is $1750. I'd consider new or low-mileage stock shocks in partial
trade.
Feel free to ask any questions!
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:10:54
EST
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re:
Driver's Seat
I am looking for a replacement dark grey leather drivers
seat for my RT.
Does anyone out there have one that is not torn that
they are willing to
sell? My seat in the power
adjustable.
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:13:53
EST
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re:
factory struts and ABS Pump
I am looking to replace the factory ECS
struts on my 1991 RT as the ones on
it now are shot and are all
leaking. Also the ABS pump has also failed and I
am in need of one of
those as well. If any of you have a serviceable set
(all 4) of ECS
struts that would work on my car I need them as well as the
ABS Pump.
Can anyone help me?
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:17:07
-0500
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
zMax
If you think about it, even their advertising dosent make
sense. They claim that their lubricant is "soaked into metal" and thus
lubricates better... Well a lubricant is supposed to sit between two parts
of metal and keep them from contacting. Thus, being "soaked in", if it
acually works, is useless.
Besides, as far as I know, solid
aluminum is non-porus, so I cant see how it would absorb oil anyway...
And that "Linkite" is a checmical used to test the viscosity and heat
transfer properties of oil.
Its definitely crap - just stick with
a good synthetic and youll be better off.
Joe
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 11:28:06
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Floormat Anchors WAS: Cosmetic Question
From my experience
with multiple 3000GTs, it seems that from the factory
there are no
slits/holes in the carpet to mount the floormat anchors.
The
instructions that come with the factory floormats say that you just
screw
the plastic anchor into the carpet after making a small hole to start
the
screw. I used a small drill bit (~1/8") to (carefully) make a small
hole in
the carpet where I wanted to install the plastic floormat
anchor. Then I
stuck the tip of the anchor in the hole and turned until
it turned no more.
That's worked like a charm and I've never had the anchor
pull out in the 5
years I've had a 3000GT.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:38:43
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Making a speaker box for the door
Friends and
do-it-your-selfers
I want to make a kick-bass box that should be attached
to the door panel.
Some ideas are not yet born but I have a lack of
experience in creating such
a box.
Does anyone know a website where is
is shown how to work either with fiber
glass or with just using a compund
that consits of a special plastik that
has to be mixed with a thinner or
hardener and then painted onto a surface.
Unfortunately, I only know the
german words but it is something like a
filler.
Thanks in
advance
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:42:41
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Making a speaker box for the door
Roger from you describe it
seems like you are looking for a 2 part epoxy
resin to work with???? Of
not for what you are trying to do get a resin
that set ups very slowly (it
will give you more time to work with it before
it hardens).
Russ
F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 2:39
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
Team3S: Making a speaker box for the door
Friends and
do-it-your-selfers
I want to make a kick-bass box that should be attached
to the door panel.
Some ideas are not yet born but I have a lack of
experience in creating such
a box.
Does anyone know a website where is
is shown how to work either with fiber
glass or with just using a compund
that consits of a special plastik that
has to be mixed with a thinner or
hardener and then painted onto a surface.
Unfortunately, I only know the
german words but it is something like a
filler.
Thanks in
advance
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 21:03:50
+0100
From: "R e n a t o F R A N Z E L L I N" <
franzellin@monaco377.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MUT Problem in Dodge Stealth 92
My Mitsu dealer, a few days
ago, found through the MUT tester this error in
the DTC block
1 KS
Circuit 1 31
I understood that this
is the error nr. 31 and my documentation and the
official books of the Mitsu
dealer say DETONATION SENSOR DOHC
Could you please tell me what does it
means "KS circuit 1" and what is the
connection with the "detonation
sensor" ?
Thanks Renato
Renato
Franzellin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 15:24:18
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: MUT Problem in Dodge Stealth 92
I was trying to guess
all the abbreviations in your email. I figured that
"nr. 31" means "number
31". The "KS Circuit" could stand for "Knock Sensor
Circuit". I forgot what
MUT is but I remember it is a Mitsubishi diagnostic
tool. But what is a "DTC
block"?
Philip
-
--------------------------------------------------------
My Mitsu dealer,
a few days ago, found through the MUT tester this error in
the DTC
block
1 KS Circuit 1 31
I
understood that this is the error nr. 31 and my documentation and
the
official books of the Mitsu dealer say DETONATION SENSOR
DOHC
Could you please tell me what does it means "KS circuit 1" and
what is the
connection with the "detonation sensor" ?
Thanks
Renato
Renato Franzellin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 22:12:55
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MUT Problem in Dodge Stealth 92
Renato
This
error points to a faulty knock sensor circuit. This can either be a
faulty
sensor itselfs (it sits below the intake manifold on a bracket
between the
cylinder heads), a simply faulty connection or a faulty circuit
board in the
ECU. As your car is a 92 also the later is possible.
So the mechanic has
to check out if the wiring from the ECU to the wiring is
ok, all connections
good and the KS working. Of course in between he has to
disconnect the
battery and to drive the car again to see if this was an
intermittend
problem.
Good luck
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "R e n a t o F R A N Z E L L I N" <
franzellin@monaco377.com>
To:
"stealth dodge" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 30, 2003 9:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: MUT Problem in Dodge
Stealth 92
> My Mitsu dealer, a few days ago, found through the
MUT tester this error
in
> the DTC block
>
> 1 KS Circuit
1 31
>
> I understood that this
is the error nr. 31 and my documentation and the
> official books of the
Mitsu dealer say DETONATION SENSOR DOHC
>
> Could you please tell me
what does it means "KS circuit 1" and what is
the
> connection
with the "detonation sensor" ?
>
> Thanks
Renato
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 15:39:38
-0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: factory struts and ABS Pump
Start with this
guy.
http://www.stealth3000gtparts.com/~kevin/index.htmlI
bought some stuff from him and he's a really nice guy. His number's
on
his website.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT.....coming
soon!!!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
MerisaPDX@aol.comSent: Thursday, January
30, 2003 1:14 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Re: factory struts and ABS Pump
I am looking to replace the
factory ECS struts on my 1991 RT as the ones on
it now are shot and are all
leaking. Also the ABS pump has also failed and
I am in need of one of
those as well. If any of you have a serviceable set
(all 4) of ECS
struts that would work on my car I need them as well as the
ABS Pump.
Can anyone help me?
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:45:43
-0700
From: "Labonte, Dan" <
DLabonte@SturmanIndustries.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird Headlight Problem
Patrick,
If the original
headlamps still work I would put them in and drive
around for a few days and
see if the problem reoccurs. If it does, then
sounds like a
wiring/connector issue. If not then might be a voltage
issue with the
new bulb.
If it is the passenger side lamp then I think that the
wire runs past
the battery across fire wall past rear turbo heat
shield. If it came
lose it could have melted the insulation and is
shorting out.
Just a thought and good luck
Dan
Labonte
- -----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Purviance
[mailto:purdaddy@associatedsys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 10:57
AM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Weird Headlight
Problem
Ok, I've got one that I can't figure out. I bought some
"blue" Xenon
headlights (low and high beam) and installed them. Looked
great until
after
a day or so when I noticed that one of them wasn't
working anymore (left
low
beam, high's both work fine). Got out
switched left to right, right to
left, and found that it wasn't the
bulb. Pushed wires back in together,
and
lo and behold, it
worked. For a couple of days. The other day I
noticed
that it
had gone out and I tried to push the connector/wires in harder,
but
no
light. Then, yesterday, upon arriving at home, I turned the
lights
on
and off a few times and it came on for a short time, then went
out
again.
It appeared to be in relation to how much power there was when
the
lights
were turned on. (You know, when you come to stop
sometimes and some of
your
lights dim a bit. That's when the left
one will go out. And it won't
come
back on unless you turn them off
and give it some gas to get the amps up
(just a guess) and then turn them
back on. But it always seems to go
out
again. Pushing the
connector in harder again, doesn't seem to be
working at
all now.
Frustrating, cause I never know when I'm going to have a
left
headlight.
Has anyone else ever heard of anything like
this? It's weird.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 15:48:07
-0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Used Clutch....up for grabs
I've got the stock clutch and
pressure plate that are in pretty good shape
from my car ('91 TT). Are
they worth anything? Is anybody here interested?
Contact me
directly. I'll try to measure how much is left on the clutch
disc with
a micrometer if anyone is interested.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:01:08
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MUT Problem in Dodge Stealth 92
DTC=Diagnostic Test
Connector
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 3:24
PM
To: R e n a t o F R A N Z E L L I N;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
MUT Problem in Dodge Stealth 92
I was trying to guess all the
abbreviations in your email. I figured
that
"nr. 31" means "number 31".
The "KS Circuit" could stand for "Knock
Sensor
Circuit". I forgot what MUT
is but I remember it is a Mitsubishi
diagnostic
tool. But what is a "DTC
block"?
Philip
-
--------------------------------------------------------
My Mitsu dealer,
a few days ago, found through the MUT tester this error
in
the DTC
block
1 KS Circuit 1 31
I
understood that this is the error nr. 31 and my documentation and
the
official books of the Mitsu dealer say DETONATION SENSOR
DOHC
Could you please tell me what does it means "KS circuit 1" and
what is
the
connection with the "detonation sensor" ?
Thanks
Renato
Renato Franzellin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:43:25
-0500
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question on JIC FLT-A2 Suspension
Why does this suspension affect
the vehicle in the weather? I can see
by lowering a car in the snow it
might cause the inability to drive
through deep or as deep snow, but why does
it affect with rain??
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:51:45
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question on JIC FLT-A2 Suspension
The issue is road conditions ---here in
the Golden Ghetto [ Southern Ca. ] we
have nice smooth pothole free roads. I
can't remember when I last saw a pothole
in a road. In areas with inclement
weather you're much more likely to have road
problems. While frost and
freezing are probably the main killer, water does it's
part
also.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
To:
<
Team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Thursday, January 30, 2003 2:43 PM
Subject: Team3S: Question on JIC FLT-A2
Suspension
> Why does this suspension affect the vehicle in the
weather? I can see
> by lowering a car in the snow it might cause
the inability to drive
> through deep or as deep snow, but why does it
affect with rain??
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 15:21:41
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question on JIC FLT-A2 Suspension
Yep, constant rain can make
roads around here rough before they're even done with the construction!
Maybe that's my solution? Instead of selling the JICs, I could move to
California! :)
- - Brian
>
> The issue is road
conditions ---here in the Golden Ghetto [
> Southern Ca. ] we
>
have nice smooth pothole free roads. I can't remember when I
> last saw a
pothole
> in a road. In areas with inclement weather you're much more
> likely to have road
> problems. While frost and freezing are
probably the main
> killer, water does it's
> part
also.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 15:30:20
-0800
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Lifter Ticking #2
I had my cams reground and I mentioned the lifter
ticking problem. They
said they would send the cams with lash caps and since
then, no ticking
after install.
Rich
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of John Sheehan
Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 7:45 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
Has anyone tried this or their B-12 for Lifter
ticking?
Hard to find on the site,look under "Chemtool" by "Product
Category".
"CHEMTOOL Oil System Cleaner #4015 is designed to quickly and
safely
remove sludge, varnish and deposits from internal engine parts.
Engine
oil is exposed to elevated temperature and oxygen from the air which
results in oil oxidation. This is how harmful engine deposits are
produced. This process is a chemical reaction which starts with the
formation of acids and other degradation products that combine to form
engine deposits. As the oil oxidation products chemically combine with
each other, they produce larger molecules that are no longer soluble in
oil. As the level of sludge and other degradation products increases,
they eventually overpower the oil's detergent and dispersant additives
which function to keep these internally-generated contaminants in
suspension in the oil. When this happens, the sludge forms deposits on
internal engine parts. These deposits can decrease oil flow through
small lines, orifices and screens and can result in increased wear due
to inadequate lubrication. As deposit levels increase, corrosive wear
can also occur in the engine. Since these engine deposits are composed
of large molecules that are not soluble in oil, just changing the oil
will not remove them from the engine.
CHEMTOOL Oil System Cleaner uses a
combination of polar and non-polar
solvents in a high viscosity petroleum
oil that safely and quickly
removes deposits from the engine oil system. The
concentrated formula
limits viscosity reduction and protects the engine
during the cleaning
process which is conducted under idle or no-load
conditions. To prevent
damage to internal engine parts, never drive a car
after adding CHEMTOOL
Oil System Cleaner to the oil. Circulate for 2-3
minutes, drain the oil
to remove the engine deposits from the
engine.
BENEFITS:
# FREES STICKY VALVES, LIFTERS AND RINGS.
#
IMPROVES OIL FLOW THROUGHOUT ENGINE.
# REMOVES GUM, SLUDGE AND VARNISH FROM
ENGINE OIL SYSTEM.
# CONTAINS POWERFUL SOLVENTS TO QUICKLY DISSOLVE DEPOSITS
IN 2-3
MINUTES.
# LUBRICATING OIL COMPONENTS HELPS MAINTAIN ENGINE OIL
VISCOSITY DURING
CLEANING.
# CONCENTRATED FORMULA IN 15 OUNCE BOTTLE
HELPS MINIMIZE EXCESSIVE
VISCOSITY REDUCTION DURING CLEANING.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/default.htm
PN# 4015
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/default.htm
PN# 0116
Thank you , John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 19:45:40
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cam Grind
So what did the cam grind buy you? Any noticeable or
tested difference?
PS. I'll bite. What are lash caps?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard L. Barron
[mailto:radanc@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 3:30 PM
To:
'John Sheehan';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
I had my cams reground and I mentioned the
lifter ticking problem. They
said they would send the cams with lash caps and
since then, no ticking
after install.
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:11:40
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
Today I went to the dealer to buy the exhaust
gasket that goes between the
DP and the main cat. To my surpise they
had one in stock and brought it to
me. I immediately noticed that it
was too small and asked the parts guy if
this was the main cat gasket or one
or the pre-cat gaskets and he assured me
it was the main cat gasket. I
asked for a ruler and sure enough it was only
2 1/2" instead of 3".
Is
the stock main cat gasket only 2 1/2" or is it really 3" and the guy
brought
me the wrong gasket?
If it is 2 1/2" then I guess I'll go to a muffler
place to get a 3" one
since mine is 3".
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:14:23
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust Gasket Size
I had the same problem a year ago --- they insist
that it's the right part but of
course it doesn't
fit.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
>
Today I went to the dealer to buy the exhaust gasket that goes between
the
> DP and the main cat. To my surpise they had one in stock and
brought it to
> me. I immediately noticed that it was too small and
asked the parts guy if
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:30:31
-0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tein HA install
Sorry, I was looking for info on how hard the
install is or if I
need any special tools. While I am asking, does anyone
know if I need the
adjustable control arms for the JIC setup?
Joseph
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf Of
fastmax
Sent: Thursday,
January 30, 2003 11:04 AM
To: Joseph Spainhour;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Tein HA install
Expect in what sense ???
threads recently indicate that the JIC
system is superior although it does
cost a few hundred more. expect
ride quality to suffer --- I've heard it's a
little stiffer than the stock
sport setting and gets harder as you increase
the shock settings.
I have a race mode GC setup and would not care to drive
it on areas
where they have frost and the roads that result.
As to
install, minor mechanical skills are required --- and maybe a
spring
compressor to assemble the JIC product, I'm not sure
about
Tien.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
>
Hello All,
>
> Has anyone out there installed the Tein HA
coilovers. I am thinking
> about getting a set and am just wondering what
I can expect from it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:03:47
-0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
I took my old ones into MIDAS and asked
if they had something like
this...the guy said....hold on....dissappeared
into the back...came out a
few minutes later with something that's a close
match....and it works. The
best part? He gave them to me
for free!! (rather than hassle with trying to
figure out what to charge
me)
- -Jeff Crabtree
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Thursday,
January 30, 2003 7:12 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
Today I went to the dealer to buy the
exhaust gasket that goes between the
DP and the main cat. To my surpise
they had one in stock and brought it to
me. I immediately noticed that
it was too small and asked the parts guy if
this was the main cat gasket or
one or the pre-cat gaskets and he assured me
it was the main cat
gasket. I asked for a ruler and sure enough it was only
2 1/2" instead
of 3".
Is the stock main cat gasket only 2 1/2" or is it really 3" and
the guy
brought me the wrong gasket?
If it is 2 1/2" then I guess I'll
go to a muffler place to get a 3" one
since mine is 3".
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 18:00:41
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tein HA install
Should be a piece of cake --- a spring compressor isn't
needed since you aren't
disassembling the old stock setup --- you're just
removing it. Where the car was
raised makes a big difference --- the rear
shock don't like to come off the lower
mounting on Eastern reared cars and
the front strut mounting bolts can be a bear
if rusted. A few basic tools and
penitrating oil are all that's required but air tools
would be
nice.
Adjustable control arms are only required if you drop the car more
than 1½". The
front has camber plates so that shouldn't be a problem but the
rear may not come
into adjustment --- it depends on what you want to live
with.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
>
Sorry, I was looking for info on how hard the install is or if I
> need
any special tools. While I am asking, does anyone know if I need the
>
adjustable control arms for the JIC setup?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 21:08:10
-0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Rattling noise
There is a new noise that I am hearing that is
getting louder. I hear a
rattling noise coming from the engine. My thoughts
are that it is coming
from some part of the transaxle. I have a 92 Stealth
(SOHC), manual tranny.
Here are my symptoms.
After I have been driving
around for 5-10 min and I start to get some heat
(it is cold here in Ontario
Canada) I hear a rattling noise coming from the
engine bay. It gets quite
loud after I been driving around for a while. The
noise sounds like a rattle
snake but lower pitch(its a fast rattle). The
noise is at it's loudest when I
am just gliding along in gear without giving
gas. The noise is not as loud
when I am giving the car throttle. And when I
push the clutch in, it goes
away. But as soon as I let off the clutch again
the sound comes back. The
rattle is only constant when there is a load on
the engine as in giving
throttle or gearing down to slow down. But when I am
gliding along in gear is
tents to blip a bit.
I figure it has to be the tranny or clutch because I
don't get the rattle
when I rev the engine in neutral. Also I cannot feel an
vibrating on the
shifter when I can hear the noise. So I don't think it is a
transmission
thing.
Im starting to get worried now because I really
don't have money to get
anything else fixed and the fact the rattle has
gotten louder is what
worries me the most.
Has anyone heard this
noise, or knows what could make a noise like this with
my symptoms. And is
there anyway to fix it.
Thanks
Jason
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 18:26:54
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
Your cat is not 3" Measure the inside
diameter of the pipe, its 2.5"
Mitsubishi wrapped our entire exhaust system
with a pipe-like heat shield so
in reality our system is a pipe inside a
pipe, which is why the stock system
is so dang heavy. Stock size is
2.5"
Tyson V.
Ty-Speed Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Thursday,
January 30, 2003 5:12 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
Today I went to the dealer to buy the exhaust
gasket that goes between the
DP and the main cat. To my surpise they
had one in stock and brought it to
me. I immediately noticed that it
was too small and asked the parts guy if
this was the main cat gasket or one
or the pre-cat gaskets and he assured me
it was the main cat gasket. I
asked for a ruler and sure enough it was only
2 1/2" instead of 3".
Is
the stock main cat gasket only 2 1/2" or is it really 3" and the guy
brought
me the wrong gasket?
If it is 2 1/2" then I guess I'll go to a muffler
place to get a 3" one
since mine is 3".
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:55:52
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
At 08:03 PM 1/30/03 -0600, William
Jeffrey Crabtree wrote:
>I took my old ones into MIDAS and asked if they
had something like
>this...the guy said....hold on....dissappeared into
the back...came out a
>few minutes later with something that's a close
match....and it works.
Yeah, same here. The gasket between
the Stillen and the catback pipe had blown out, so good ol' Denny's Mufflers
matched up a 3 in. gasket from a big Ford pickup. They just went over to their
"wall of gaskets" and picked one off that matched. There were three or four that
fit. It's no big deal.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 22:11:15
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Oops, wrong URL
Sorry, that should have been
http://www.stealth316.com Sorry for
the bad
dope.
Dennis
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 28, 2003 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: N/A SOHC 60k Service
questions.
> Have you checked out the FAQ page? I know some
of your questions are
> answered there:
>
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ.htm.
Also,
www.speed316.com has a lot of
good
> info, and answers some of your other questions. In the mean
time, I have
a
> couple replies to your questions:
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 21:11:49
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Making a speaker box for the door
Roger
Check out
http://www.bondo-online.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=398(this
link points to the Fiberglass Resin). You must also mix a hardener
with
this and use fiberglass matting material.
I've used this stuff for years
- you can fabricate dang near anything out of
it with practice. You
have to be careful and not get too much hardener in
the mix or it does just
that - gets hard - too fast! Get some gloves -
fiberglass is a pain to
get off your hands once its on there.
Dan
97 VR4
Roger Gerl
said: Thursday, January 30, 2003 1:38 PM
<Does anyone know a website where
is is shown how to work either with fiber
<glass or with just using a
compund that consits of a special plastik that
<has to be mixed with a
thinner or hardener and then painted onto a surface.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:39:23
-0800
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
Look at the Volk Gram Lights.
17x9 or 9.5 available and not expensive
considering the weight savings.
I think they go for about $330 ea and
weight roughly 18lbs or so.
I
should have a set by mid feb or so!
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"John Sheehan" <
johns@kyso.com>
To:
<
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei
Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
> 17"x 9" is exactly what I am looking for,
also with more caliper and
> JIC/TEIN HA Coilover clearance. Light and low
price are great too! ; ) !
> Suggestions are very
welcome!!!! Thanx, John
>
>
ratkins@cfl.rr.com wrote:
>
>
>I got Discount Tire to special Order my Enkei RPM-2 rims direct
from
Enkei for
> >me and paid $270 for them. They do not show
up on the Discount site.
They are
> >18x9 with a 38mm
offset.
> >
> >here's a pic
http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autoxtrim.jpg>
>
> >They provide significantly more caliper and TEIN HA Coilover
clearance
than
> >stock even with 265x35x18 Kumho ecsta700 (new
R-compound Kumho). My only
> >regret is that they are 18's since
I only use them off-road. 17's
provide a
> >better selection
and better price on tires. When I find a good looking,
>
>inexpensive and light 17x9 that fits, i'll probably make a
move.
> >
> >bad bob
> >'99VR-4
> >
>
>>Wow Bob!
> >>
> >>The RPM-2 is a nice looking
wheel. I'm especially impressed at the
weight of
> >>18 Lbs (8.18
Kgs) for the 18x9. I think I'm beginning to get a message
>
>>here. As weight decreases, price is going to increase to pay for
the
> >>benefit. These bad boys are +$400 list!
>
>>
> >>Thanks a for looking, doing a bit of leg work and for
the feedback. I
> >>located the RP01 info today while surfing
around during lunch so didn't
post
> >>a status back until
now. It's hard to imagine there isn't a grave yard
full
>
>>of mismatched wheel sets somewhere out there. Surely others with
RP01's
> >>have had a boo boo somewhere along the line and ended up
disposing the
> >>remaining good wheels.
> >>
>
>>Thanks
> >>Dan 97 VR4
> >>
> >>bob
atkins wrote on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:01 PM
> >>
>
>>
> >>>They look like RP01 to me. There are some
very similar styles though -
as
> >>>well. There should
be someone close by that could verify that they are
> >>>RP01's
or a photo or an e-mail to a tech at Enkei should work.
Call
them
> >>>direct at the number on their website
(800-843-9145) and prearrange
with
> >>>some one to look at
your photo. I spoke with them several times to get
an
>
>>>Enkei RPM-2 wheel size that fit my '99 VR-4. Happy to say I
have a set
of
> >>>them for track times.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 22:39:47
-0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tein HA install
She was raised in eastern NC so I guess I am
in for some fun.
Thanks for the info.
Joseph
93 vr4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent:
Thursday, January 30, 2003 9:01 PM
To: Joseph Spainhour;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Tein HA install
Should be a piece of cake --- a spring
compressor isn't needed since you
aren't
disassembling the old stock setup
--- you're just removing it. Where the car
was
raised makes a big
difference --- the rear shock don't like to come off the
lower
mounting on
Eastern reared cars and the front strut mounting bolts can be a
bear
if
rusted. A few basic tools and penitrating oil are all that's required but
air
tools
would be nice.
Adjustable control arms are only required if you
drop the car more than 1½".
The
front has camber plates so that shouldn't
be a problem but the rear may not
come
into adjustment --- it depends on
what you want to live
with.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
>
Sorry, I was looking for info on how hard the install is or if I
> need
any special tools. While I am asking, does anyone know if I need the
>
adjustable control arms for the JIC setup?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 22:02:52
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
Damon
Those are a
nice, uncomplicated, "clean" 5 spoke design. It's a style I'm
favoring
since I appreciate an ability to reach my hand through the wheel to
do
swabbing and cleaning. Too bad - appears they don't make
18's.
Dan
97 VR4
>Damon Rachell said: "Look at the Volk
Gram Lights. 17x9 or 9.5 available
and not expensive
>considering
the weight savings."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:03:12
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
> Your cat is not 3" Measure the
inside diameter of the pipe, its 2.5"
> Mitsubishi wrapped our entire
exhaust system with a pipe-like heat shield
so
> in reality our system
is a pipe inside a pipe, which is why the stock
system
> is so dang
heavy. Stock size is 2.5"
Thank you everyone that replied.
Looks like stock is 2.5". This is kind of
odd since it means that stock
has two 2.5" pipes going into one 2.5" pipe.
Beats me.
I have a DN
Performance DP and a custom 3" cat back so mine is a real 3"
inner
diameter. Looks like I'll be heading to a muffler shop.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:15:03
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front clip?
I was
hoping to get a bit more feedback on this guys... I got 2 replies on
3SI
saying that its too much $$$. James here says its too much as well. I
tend to
agree. Anyone know of another source for a clip?
Tyson
-
-----Original Message-----
From: James Mutton
[mailto:james@playstream.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 9:24 AM
To:
Tyson Varosyan
Subject: RE: Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a
JDM front
clip?
Dude,
$4500 is waaaaay to much for a front
clip. Especially one that he's
unwilling to do any leg-work on.
I'd expect that much for one that was
proven to have a good engine/trans and
came with a non-doa warranty.
But an as-is... I'd offer him no more then
$2500-3k shipped unless he's
willing to put forth some effort. As was
already stated the VIN Plate
is probably your best bet on checking mfg
date.
- -James
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson
Varosyan [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 10:50
PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a
JDM front
clip?
I found a 1st gen front clip from a guy that has
had it for ever. Really
weird how I found it too. Called a JDM engine
reseller whom told me to
call a guy, he told me to call another guy, then
another guy then the
next guy is the one with the clip... Anyway, its a JDM
front clip.
Everything from the dash on forward. Right-hand drive obviously
but the
engine and tranny and stuff is all the same as ours. Full clip,
one
fender is a bit trashed, engine, gauges, tranny, transfer case,
hood,
all the stuff under the hood, headlights, bumper, etc. The
odometer
reads 58K which is in Kilometers, that comes out to about 36k
miles.
However, here is the catch. Guy claims no compression tests were
ever
done. He has no idea if the engine and tranny are any good, but
says
that everything looks fine. I got pictures too, but its not like you
can
see a broken rod from the outside.... Everything looks alright, the
car
even has some very light mods on it, Greddy BOV, HKS intake and
some
other misc junk. Clip sold as-is no warranty. The thing is too far
away
for me to look at it... Guy is also not willing to do much in the way
of
tearing it apart -- says he does not want to waste time.
Another
thing that got me stumped is that although we know its a first
gen, nobody
seems to know what year the thing is. I would love a late
92-93 for the 25
spleen tranny! I tried to have him go look at the CAS
to see if its
adjustable or not (91-92 had that), he said he could not
find one on there
and some book he had said that ealy 91's didnt have
one... Sounds bogus to
me, I know people whom have 91's and everyone has
a CAS. Is there any other
way to tell what year the car is? Obviously
the sticker in the door-well is
still in Japan...
The main question here is what do you think that is
worth? The guy wants
$4500 shipped, that sounds a bit steep to me. Yea its
got mass low
miles, but could have a broken rod and a shredded tranny for all
I
know... Help?
Thanks,
Tyson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 22:25:48
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: zMax (The Final word)
Question about Zmax: "Has anyone used
this zMax stuff?"
Answer: The TEAM3S response consensus in this context
of this thread is
assumed to be the majority of those responding
(and in
this case meaning *ALL* of those respononding!) say ........NO!
Do
not get drawn into infomercial claims. Stay with your dino and
synthetic
oils.
"Live long and prosper"
Dan
97
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 01:14:44
-0600
From: "Michael Neill" <
dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
Yes, I have had this same problem for the past
few weeks, only after idle.
My '97 VR4 only has 60k on the odometer. Cannot
tell what lifter(s) are
ticking, only that it does it on idle. Rev it up to
about 2500rpm, ticking
dissappears. Mike
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
To: "John
Sheehan" <
johns@kyso.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Lifter Ticking
#2
> On Wednesday, January 29, 2003 9:44 PM "John Sheehan"
wrote:
> "Has anyone tried this or their B-12 for Lifter ticking?
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------
>
John
>
>
> I don't have 3SI owner tenure like many of the
"track warriors" reading
> this, however I'll chime in about my experience
with "Lifter Tick" and
share
> some of what I've read here at Team3S in
the past.
>
> I have only used a "cleaner" once so I don't have an
opinion or experience
> for brand effectiveness. I was told by someone who
seemed knowledgeable to
> run a cleaner for an extended duration (1500
miles) so it could do the job
> intended. I think there are more
factors to this issue than dirty lifters
> though.
>
> #1 -
I've *read* that 1st Gen lifters are more prone to this
ticking
problem
> than 2nd Gen lifters due to some redesign. They are
swappable if I recall.
> Was it from 97 on that made advances
here?
>
> #2 - I decided soon after I purchased my VR4 to run
synthetics everywhere.
I
> chose the Redline product while looking for
some cure to the notchy
shifting
> phenomenon in the Getrags. (And this
can be a near religious experience
for
> some of us so let's not go to
the oil well again ok? :-)
>
> a) I added CD2 and run this for about
1000 Miles
> b) Drained and added the RedLine 10W30
>
> To my
dismay, I had worse lifter tick than before!!!
>
> After a little
poking around (reading) I discovered that this ticking can
> happen if you
OVERFILL (which I did but seemingly it was such an innocent
> amount).
What's the problem? The crank agitates the oil introducing air
> which is
an *enemy* of our lifters. I crawled under the car and drained to
> the
dip stick full line and things were much better. (but still
not
perfect)
>
> #3 - Run the "livin snot" out of her for a day!
I had *read* posts here on
> TEAM3S from some from the weekend warriors
claiming the lifter tick would
go
> away after a day at the track. High
RPM's, heat, whatever...just cleans
> things out I
suppose.
>
> Sure enough, a friend of mine and I went out and were
*very bad* for a
day.
> 600 very fast and hard miles later that day,
the lifter ticking was
> absolutely gone. The ticking does seem to
return after some weeks of
> mundane daily driving behaviors but I can say
it has never been as bad as
> when I first purchased my VR4 in Nov
2001.
>
> My observation? <- And
the next statement is interesting to evaluate
> because it really is true
supposition on my part
>
>
> DO NOT FILL TO THE FULL LINE ON
YOUR DIP STICK - back her off a little
when
> you change oil - just a
cup is all. You will notice a difference if your
car
> is like mine. I
believe the full line is right on the border of causing
> crank induced
oil agitation. I have been curious about this for some
time.
>
Are the crank lobes indeed at such a close margin of clearance to oil
in
the
> pan that a full or slight over full causes foaming? I'm
convinced this
must
> be true but I have never had this engine apart to
try and measure.
>
> At the end of the day, possibly the brand of
oil you use may be less
> important than how full you fill? I don't
know... A lot of this is
> conjecture I admit and your mileage may
vary!
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> 97
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 09:06:10
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front clip?
I
agree that it is overpriced. What's a "front clip"?
Philip
-
----------------------------------------------
I was hoping to get a bit
more feedback on this guys... I got 2 replies on
3SI saying that its too much
$$$. James here says its too much as well. I
tend to agree. Anyone know of
another source for a clip?
Tyson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 14:17:44
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust Gasket Size
Ty,
What car are you talking
about?
When I replaced the entire exhaust system on my 1992 Stealth TT I
took the
time to look at and measure the inside diameter (ID) of, and weigh,
the
components. The results have been posted for almost three years at my
web page
below (url has changed over that time).
http://www.stealth316.com/2-atr.htmFirst.
The Mitsu did NOT wrap "our entire exhaust system with a pipe-like heat
shield so in reality our system is a pipe inside a pipe". This is not the
case
for my 1992 TT or any 3S model that I know of. So what car are you
talking
about? There are some heat shields but absolutely not a "pipe in a
pipe"
exhaust system.
Second. The stock cat back system weighs,
within a pound or so, the same as
the ATR cat back - about 55 pounds. Not
saying this is light. Just saying
steel is relatively heavy and that the
stock system weighs similar to
aftermarket steel (dual exit)
systems.
Third. Pipe sizes. The stock cat back pipes have a nominal ID of
2.84",
similar to the ATR's 2.88" ID. This makes both the stock and ATR 3"
(OD) cat
back systems (pipes are usually measured using OD, hoses are
usually measured
using ID). The stock main cat has a nominal inlet and
outlet ID of 2.37" (or
roughly a 2.5" pipe). Exhaust pipe wall thickness is
a nominal 0.065".
Anybody that has actually handled, measured, and
weighed the stock exhaust
system knows
this.
======================================================
Exhaust
pipe gaskets.
Owners (at least of 1992 TTs) need MB687002 for inlets to
the downpipe and for
between the front precat and front exhaust fitting, and
MB687004 for between
the stock downpipe and stock main cat. This info is
also available on my "ATR"
web page noted above.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
To: "'dakken'"
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>;
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust Gasket
Size
Your cat is not 3" Measure the inside diameter of the pipe, its
2.5"
Mitsubishi wrapped our entire exhaust system with a pipe-like heat
shield so
in reality our system is a pipe inside a pipe, which is why the
stock system
is so dang heavy. Stock size is 2.5"
Tyson V.
Ty-Speed
Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 09:52:18
-0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cosmetic Question -- Floor Mat Holder
There were enough responses on this
that I thought it was worth
summarizing.
It looks like the final
answer is that Mitsu makes a floor mat hook that
is screwed into the carpet,
not the floor itself. Sounds weak, but by
all accounts it seems to
work. It also looks like you get a set of
hooks if you buy new Mitsu
floor mats.
The part number is #a992xf1x02. I got mine from
Tallahassee Mitsubishi
(listed on the "good guys" page). They've been
very helpful (and
patient), in getting parts. And they offer a discount
to Team3S
members.
Also as an aside, if you're in the area and
need work done, the shop
foreman actually has a clue with VR4s. And
they'll fight for you on the
recall. I know of one case where they got
Mitsu to replace the full
tranny as well as the transfer case on the
recall.
Thanks for all the replies on the original
question.
Ken
'97 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 08:58:13
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
The inside diameter of
my Volk TE37 17" wheels is something just shy of 16.75". I measured this
with a tape measure so I'm sure it's pretty approximate. The inside walls of the
barrel of the wheel seem pretty straight, so I don't think you lose much as you
get outboard to where the calipers are.
Chuck Willis
(Ferris Bueller
on his day off)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 2:01
PM
To: 'John Sheehan';
ratkins@cfl.rr.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
Volk TE 37's are
supposedly one of the wheels with the greater caliper
clearance in the 17"
wheel sizes.... Unfortunately this is supposition
because no one
has ever bothered to measure the inside wheel diameter
before
installation.
Do we a have any volunteers to remove a wheel and
take some measurements
(particularly around the caliper area) Bueller
Bueller?
Russ F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 11:35:19
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Inside wheel diameter TE-37
Thanks Ferris, opps I mean
Chuck
Well I guess I will start an excel spread sheet for this info and
around May
will forward it to the admins to add to the FAQ pages at their
leisure.
Oh and I haven't forgotten about my oil cooler FAQ however since
the engine
is semi-running and I currently have the feed lines for the oil
system set
up so I can have the cooler core sitting in a bucket of ice for
when I
finish the car and go off to dyno tune it.
something like this
(link to a zipped movie file)
www.exvitermini.com/movies/meltice.zip-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003
9:58 AM
To: Furman, Russell; John Sheehan;
ratkins@cfl.rr.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
The inside diameter of
my Volk TE37 17" wheels is something just shy of
16.75". I measured
this with a tape measure so I'm sure it's pretty
approximate. The inside
walls of the barrel of the wheel seem pretty
straight, so I don't think you
lose much as you get outboard to where the
calipers are.
Chuck
Willis
(Ferris Bueller on his day off)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2 #68
**************************************
