Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, January 30 2003
Volume 02 : Number
067
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Jan 2003 16:29:10 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Door speakers
I need a quick information abut how deep
aftermarket speakers for the doors
can be. It's just too cold outside to take
the door apart ;-)
Thanks in advance
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 07:44:40
-0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Well,
Well, you can't say we didn't warn ya!
Check out
http://www.stealth316.com (maintained
by
team member Jeff L., Thanks Jeff) It has tons of
information and
more links than you could cover in a
lifetime.
Next go buy the factory
service manuals (2). Mine
were about $125 from Rockville Mitsu.
Visit the good
guys page on team 3s website to find dealers that give
us
discounts. They manuals are also available on a
'backup' cd for much
less.
Have fun.
Glenn
'93 vr-4
- --- "Lim, Yong
H PV2" <
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
wrote:
> Depite all the advices given to me from my
> supervisor and
some of the
> members, I just went ahead and bought the car last
>
night.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 10:04:51
-0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Door speakers
> I need a quick information abut how deep
aftermarket speakers for
> the doors
> can be. It's just too cold
outside to take the door apart ;-)
>
> Thanks in advance
>
Roger
> 93' & 96'3000GT TT
Roger, Jeff L. also has a great
write up with the information I think you're
looking for. Looks like
stock is 2", with room to grow if you wanted to
fabricate another
adapter/bracket. You can check with Crutchfield.com for
replacements
that will fit (and they include baffle adapters if recall
correctly).
Good
luck!
http://www.stealth316.com/2-speakers.htmPatrick
Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 57k miles, Open Air Intake, Blitz DSBC, Blitz
DATT
Wichita, KS
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 10:44:35
-0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Well,
> Despite all the advices given to me from my
supervisor and some of the
> members, I just went ahead and bought the car
last night.
Congrats!
>Is there any book which covers all the
basic stuffs about the car,
> I have been looking through Amazon but I
can't seem to find the
> types of the book I want.
> Any
recommendations on some good books for beginners would be
>
appreciated.
Get the Shop Manuals and then the Manual on CD
(
http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd/index2.htm)
>
- fix the front panel(now I see it again yesterday, it's a not a
> hole
but a
> small cut on the plastic of the panel so I want to know if
there
> is a way to
> fix this) If it's hard to fix then I
guess I'll just put some kind carpet
> on the front panel
Where
exactly is this "front panel"? I don't know if anyone else is
confused,
but I'm not sure exactly what part of the dash (at least I think
you're near
the dash) you're talking about. In the console, near the radio?
Above
the radio? The gauge cluster? The area around the steering
column?
Help someone help you.
> - change the dash-in stereo(it
works fine but it has no CD player but just
> cassette. and radio so I
need to to change it) I didn't know this
> before but
> there
are some radio control buttons on the steering wheel, is it still
>
possible to use those buttons after installing a new one and how
> much is
it
> going to cost me to get a new one installed in a car stereo
shop.
I swapped out my factory Infinity CD/Radio for a Pioneer Premier
DEH-P740MP,
CD/MP3 Player. It installed effortlessly with a wiring
harness connector
purchased at Best Buy for $15. The only problem I've
had is that the
tweeters had to be rewired, as they would not work with the
new stereo
without being rewired. That might be an issue that only I
have, as others
I've taken this up with say they had not experienced
that. And the radio
control buttons can be used with aftermarket
stereos that have remote
control options (infra-red only I think). The
company that makes it is call
PAC (Pacific Accessory Corporation).
Called the PAC SWI. I think that both
the 3000gt and Stealth are
covered, but didn't research the 3000gt. Here's
a link....
http://www.go2pac.com/products/swi.htmHope
that helps,
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T
TT, 57k miles, Open Air Intake, Blitz DSBC, Blitz DATT
Wichita,
KS
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 16:56:30
+0000
From: "gareth hannah" <
alcoholika_02@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #66
If you really want good resources
for info on our cars, go to
www.3sxperformance.com and look under
literature. there are manuels for our
cars, and there is also a CD-ROM
i do believe, but i forgot who makes it.
it might be at
www.stealth316.comgood
luck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 11:12:27
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pre-season sale
Spread far and wide fellow cult
members..
Pre-season brake pad sale till the end of February..spray paint
this on
highway dividers, noise barriers, and on every WWW forum you belong
to.
For those of you coming to Sears Point the 8-9th, your cut-off date
for
ground shipping+install and bedding time is Friday this
week.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 11:56:52
-0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Weird Headlight Problem
Ok, I've got one that I can't figure
out. I bought some "blue" Xenon
headlights (low and high beam) and
installed them. Looked great until after
a day or so when I noticed
that one of them wasn't working anymore (left low
beam, high's both work
fine). Got out switched left to right, right to
left, and found that it
wasn't the bulb. Pushed wires back in together, and
lo and behold, it
worked. For a couple of days. The other day I noticed
that it had
gone out and I tried to push the connector/wires in harder, but
no
light. Then, yesterday, upon arriving at home, I turned the lights
on
and off a few times and it came on for a short time, then went out
again.
It appeared to be in relation to how much power there was when the
lights
were turned on. (You know, when you come to stop sometimes and
some of your
lights dim a bit. That's when the left one will go
out. And it won't come
back on unless you turn them off and give it
some gas to get the amps up
(just a guess) and then turn them back on.
But it always seems to go out
again. Pushing the connector in harder
again, doesn't seem to be working at
all now. Frustrating, cause I
never know when I'm going to have a left
headlight.
Has anyone else
ever heard of anything like this? It's weird.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 11:49:40
-0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
17"x 9" is exactly what I am
looking for, also with more caliper and
JIC/TEIN HA Coilover clearance.
Light and low price are great too! ; ) !
Suggestions are very
welcome!!!! Thanx, John
ratkins@cfl.rr.com wrote:
>I got
Discount Tire to special Order my Enkei RPM-2 rims direct from Enkei for
>me and paid $270 for them. They do not show up on the Discount
site. They are
>18x9 with a 38mm offset.
>
>here's a pic
http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autoxtrim.jpg>
>They
provide significantly more caliper and TEIN HA Coilover clearance than
>stock even with 265x35x18 Kumho ecsta700 (new R-compound Kumho).
My only
>regret is that they are 18's since I only use them
off-road. 17's provide a
>better selection and better price on
tires. When I find a good looking,
>inexpensive and light
17x9 that fits, i'll probably make a move.
>
>bad
bob
>'99VR-4
>
>
>>Wow
Bob!
>>
>>The RPM-2 is a nice looking wheel. I'm especially
impressed at the weight of
>>18 Lbs (8.18 Kgs) for the 18x9. I
think I'm beginning to get a message
>>here. As weight decreases, price
is going to increase to pay for the
>>benefit. These bad boys are +$400
list!
>>
>>Thanks a for looking, doing a bit of leg work and
for the feedback. I
>>located the RP01 info today while surfing
around during lunch so didn't post
>>a status back until now.
It's hard to imagine there isn't a grave yard full
>>of mismatched
wheel sets somewhere out there. Surely others with RP01's
>>have
had a boo boo somewhere along the line and ended up disposing
the
>>remaining good
wheels.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Dan 97
VR4
>>
>>bob atkins wrote on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:01
PM
>>
>>
>>>They look like RP01
to me. There are some very similar styles though -
as
>>>well. There should be someone close by that could verify
that they are
>>>RP01's or a photo or an e-mail to a tech at Enkei
should work. Call them
>>>direct at the number on their
website (800-843-9145) and prearrange with
>>>some one to look at
your photo. I spoke with them several times to get an
>>>Enkei
RPM-2 wheel size that fit my '99 VR-4. Happy to say I have a set
of
>>>them for track times.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 13:03:31
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Well,
My experiences with dealers(kinda long):
If you are
wanting to save some cash, don't just go to a dealer and say "I
need a 60k
service done". They will charge you an arm and a leg. I had
no
where near the $1,640 that the dealer quoted me over the phone for the
60k
service. I instead found a good local mechanic that had a new shop,
and had
him do SOME of the work entailed in the 60k serv. I only wanted
to save my
car from possibly having the timing belt snap, or water pump going
out. I
figure that these are the two main reasons to do the
service. So I had my
timing belt replaced, waterpump replaced,
tensioner idler pulley, radiator
cap that was leaking, 2 cam seals(sohc), and
a crank seal. This totaled
right around $400 that's including all
parts, labor, shop fees, and taxes.
I am happy with the results, and now I
have some sort of security that my
belt isn't gonna snap. Now you can
do a days worth of research on all the
sites previously suggested - figure
out what parts commonly go out, or
malfunction, and then spend an afternoon
going over your car yourself and
just inspecting and try to figure out if you
want them to do more or less
work accordingly.(this is easier if you have the
previously recommended
manuals)
As an uneducated new owner, I
unfortunately made the mistake of taking it to
the dealer after my first
problem only about a month after purchasing the
car... Alternator went
out. I took it to the dealer and had them fix
it.... it was over $500
just to replace the alternator. I ended up having
to take it back 2
more times after that because they put the wrong pulley on
it and it ripped
through 2 belts in a week... add in 4 days without my
car(had to rent a car
for work that wasn't covered by insurance or work).
NOT a good experience
with the dealer. The shop that I later found, said
that it would have
been way less than half that for them to have sent it out
to get fixed and
reinstall it.
Though the dealer you go to might be better or worse, it
doesn't hurt to do
the EASY research that is plentifully provided by the
experts on this list,
and either do the work yourself or be well informed
when taking it to a
shop.
Just relaying my experiences,
-
-Erik
'91 Stealth
> P.S. About the 60k inspection, should I
get it done at Herrington-Don
> Mitsubish in Dallas(about 3 hrs from here)
or just a Mitsu. dealer here?
> SPC Lim
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 15:00:48
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
Volk TE 37's are
supposedly one of the wheels with the greater caliper
clearance in the 17"
wheel sizes.... Unfortunately this is supposition
because no one
has ever bothered to measure the inside wheel diameter
before
installation.
Do we a have any volunteers to remove a wheel and
take some measurements
(particularly around the caliper area) Bueller
Bueller?
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: John
Sheehan [mailto:johns@kyso.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 2:50
PM
To:
ratkins@cfl.rr.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
17"x 9" is exactly
what I am looking for, also with more caliper and
JIC/TEIN HA Coilover
clearance. Light and low price are great too! ; ) !
Suggestions are
very welcome!!!! Thanx, John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 14:06:24
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
I have 4 ea 17" TE37's
with tires mounted sitting in my garage. I will measure the inside wheel
diameter this evening when I go home.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 2:01 PM
To: 'John Sheehan';
ratkins@cfl.rr.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
Volk TE 37's are
supposedly one of the wheels with the greater caliper
clearance in the 17"
wheel sizes.... Unfortunately this is supposition
because no one
has ever bothered to measure the inside wheel diameter
before
installation.
Do we a have any volunteers to remove a wheel and
take some measurements
(particularly around the caliper area) Bueller
Bueller?
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: John
Sheehan [mailto:johns@kyso.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 2:50
PM
To:
ratkins@cfl.rr.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
17"x 9" is exactly
what I am looking for, also with more caliper and
JIC/TEIN HA Coilover
clearance. Light and low price are great too! ; ) !
Suggestions are
very welcome!!!! Thanx, John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 22:05:02
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Door speakers
Thanks Patrick
,but the installation site
doesn't tell anything about how big the magnet is
able to be and how deep it
can be mounted. I just wonder if a 16cm Kickbass
can be installed there. 2"
would be definitely not enough :-(
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> > I need a quick
information abut how deep aftermarket speakers for
> > the
doors
> > can be. It's just too cold outside to take the door apart
;-)
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> > Roger
> >
93' & 96'3000GT TT
>
> Roger, Jeff L. also has a great write up
with the information I think
you're
> looking for. Looks like
stock is 2", with room to grow if you wanted to
> fabricate another
adapter/bracket. You can check with Crutchfield.com for
>
replacements that will fit (and they include baffle adapters if recall
>
correctly).
> Good luck!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 16:56:45
-0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cosmetic Question
I have a 1997 VR4. It came with floor mats that
have a hole in them
where a hook should fit to hold them in place, but there
was no hook in
the car. I ordered a new hook ($2 - Oh that all my
replacement parts
cost so much), and was told by the service guys that there
should be a
slit in the carpet where the hook would screw into the
floor. Unless I
am completely blind, there is no slit in the
carpet.
So here's my question...
Do any of you out there with 1997
VR4s have a hook to hold your floor
mats in place, or did Mitsu have a brain
cramp and ship floor mats with
holes but no hook to hold them in place that
year? What about other
years?
Thanks for the
help.
Ken
'97 Green VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 16:11:28
-0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cosmetic Question
I'd be interested in know whether or not
this was available in other model
years as well. I'd love to have floor
mats that didn't move when I shift!
So do any of the other owners out
there have such a system? If so,
years
please....
Thanks,
-Patrick
> Do any of you
out there with 1997 VR4s have a hook to hold your floor
> mats in place,
or did Mitsu have a brain cramp and ship floor mats with
> holes but no
hook to hold them in place that year? What about other
>
years?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Ken
>
>
'97 Green VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 17:15:46
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cosmetic Question
My 93 had the hooks already in place but no
mats (that was a cheap and easy
fix).
Also does anyone where I can
find the rear floor mats, I never really have
anyone back there but I am
looking for that finished look.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Patrick Purviance
[mailto:purdaddy@associatedsys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 5:11
PM
To: Ken Lovell;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Cosmetic Question
I'd be interested in know whether or not this was
available in other model
years as well. I'd love to have floor mats
that didn't move when I shift!
So do any of the other owners out there
have such a system? If so,
years
please....
Thanks,
-Patrick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 15:24:46
-0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Cosmetic Question
I recently bought factory floormats for my
'93. The floormats came with the
"hook" - it screws into the carpet and
has a rotating clasp that locks the
floormat to it. It holds the mat in
place forward and backward, but it
still moves side to side, kind of rotating
about the screw lock thing.
- - Damien
'93 VR-4 Sorrento Red in
Arizona
>I have a 1997 VR4. It came with floor mats that have a
hole in them
where a hook should fit to hold them in place, but there was no
hook in
the car. I ordered a new hook ($2 - Oh that all my replacement
parts
cost so much), and was told by the service guys that there should be
a
slit in the carpet where the hook would screw into the floor. Unless
I
am completely blind, there is no slit in the carpet.
So here's my
question...
Do any of you out there with 1997 VR4s have a hook to hold
your floor
mats in place, or did Mitsu have a brain cramp and ship floor mats
with
holes but no hook to hold them in place that year? What about
other
years?
Thanks for the help.
Ken
'97 Green
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 15:55:22
-0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Cosmetic Question
The carpet. Works better than one
might imagine.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Lovell"
<
wklovell@yahoo.com>
To:
"'Damien'" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Cosmetic
Question
> What did it screw into?
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Damien
> Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 5:25 PM
> To: 3S List
> Subject: Team3S:
RE: Cosmetic Question
>
>
> I recently bought factory
floormats for my '93. The floormats came with
> the "hook" - it
screws into the carpet and has a rotating clasp that
> locks the floormat
to it. It holds the mat in place forward and
> backward, but it
still moves side to side, kind of rotating about the
> screw lock
thing.
>
> - Damien
> '93 VR-4 Sorrento Red in
Arizona
>
> >I have a 1997 VR4. It came with floor mats
that have a hole in them
> where a hook should fit to hold them in place,
but there was no hook in
> the car. I ordered a new hook ($2 - Oh
that all my replacement parts
> cost so much), and was told by the service
guys that there should be a
> slit in the carpet where the hook would
screw into the floor. Unless I
> am completely blind, there is no
slit in the carpet.
>
> So here's my question...
>
> Do
any of you out there with 1997 VR4s have a hook to hold your floor
> mats
in place, or did Mitsu have a brain cramp and ship floor mats with
> holes
but no hook to hold them in place that year? What about other
>
years?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Ken
>
>
'97 Green VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 18:16:56
-0500
From: Eric <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Seats
I think I am going to go with the Corbeau Forza II
seats. Anyone have an
opinion on them?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team 3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
"Keith" <
mobo@adelphia.net>
Sent: Friday,
December 27, 2002 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Seats
> Keith
Upton (Moboroshi) did mine and it was a LOT less.
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
> To:
"Team 3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 2:53 PM
> Subject: Team3S:
Seats
>
>
> > I have a 93 Stealth ES and the leather seats
are beginning to fade. So I
> > called the dealership and told me the
seats would run me about $2,520
per
> > seat. (Conicelli
Mitsubishi). Does anyone know a cheaper place or a good
> > place to
reupholster the seats?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 20:17:00
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Seats
Eric - Removing the stock seats also removes the stock seat
belt
retainer (I'm not sure what the part is actually called but it is
where
you plug the seatbelt tang into). This means you will need to
install
another receiver for the stock 3-point seatbelt. Perhaps one
from a
junked 3/S or an Eclipse would fit if you can bolt it into the
tunnel.
Here in the great Commonwealth of PA it is illegal (or was when
I
installed race seats and harness) to not have the 3-point seatbelt
in
the car. Crazy to think that they wouldn't approve of
the
FIA-sanctioned rollbar, race seat, and 5-point harness system but
since
that is not what was proven in the Government crash test I can see
their
reasoning. So even if I am wearing the 5-point harness I still
have to
wear the 3-point stock seatbelt or I will get cited for not wearing
a
seatbelt.
Also, the car will not pass the annual inspection without
a proper
working stock seatbelt.
I have Sparco Evo seats and love
them. The Corbeau Forza II looks very
similar at first glance. I
have some pictures of my car with the stock
driver's seat removed and can get
people dimensions or install pictures
- - nobody has really done this so I've
not created the "How To" page yet.
Make sure you check your local laws
regarding this before going with
racing or race-looking seats. And I
will not mention race seats and
harnesses without also mentioning the need
for a rollbar. Contact me
privately if you need more scoop on
that.
- --Flash!
Rollbar full-time and race seats and harnesses only
for the track
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric
Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 18:17
I think I am going to go with the
Corbeau Forza II seats. Anyone have an
opinion on them?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 20:48:03
EST
From:
RP5050@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: SMOKING
I HAVE READ SOME OF THE INFO ON AN ENGINE SMOKING AT IDLE
AND IT SEEM IT IS
THE VALVE SEALS & VALVE GUIDES NEED REPLACING.
MY QUESTION IS, IF THE
STEALTH I HAVE SAT FOR APPROX. 2 YRS COULD THIS HAVE
CAUSE THE SEALS & VALVE
GUIDES TO GET HARD AND GO BAD? AND IS IT
POSSIBLE FOR THE BACK YARD MECHANIC
TO REPLACE THESE PARTS DO TO THERE IS A
MONEY PROBLEM AT THIS
TIME.
HELP!
RON " 91"
STEALTH
ES
LOVE MY STEALTH
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 18:27:17
-0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: Lifter
Ticking
Has anyone tried this or their B-12 for Lifter ticking?
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/default.htmor
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/default.htm
says it can be used as a
flush to clean oil paths and lifters??
Thank
you , John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 19:44:40
-0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: Lifter
Ticking #2
Has anyone tried this or their B-12 for Lifter
ticking?
Hard to find on the site,look under "Chemtool" by "Product
Category".
"CHEMTOOL Oil System Cleaner #4015 is designed to quickly and
safely
remove sludge, varnish and deposits from internal engine parts.
Engine
oil is exposed to elevated temperature and oxygen from the air which
results in oil oxidation. This is how harmful engine deposits are
produced. This process is a chemical reaction which starts with the
formation of acids and other degradation products that combine to form
engine deposits. As the oil oxidation products chemically combine with
each other, they produce larger molecules that are no longer soluble in
oil. As the level of sludge and other degradation products increases,
they eventually overpower the oil's detergent and dispersant additives
which function to keep these internally-generated contaminants in
suspension in the oil. When this happens, the sludge forms deposits on
internal engine parts. These deposits can decrease oil flow through
small lines, orifices and screens and can result in increased wear due
to inadequate lubrication. As deposit levels increase, corrosive wear
can also occur in the engine. Since these engine deposits are composed
of large molecules that are not soluble in oil, just changing the oil
will not remove them from the engine.
CHEMTOOL Oil System Cleaner uses a
combination of polar and non-polar
solvents in a high viscosity petroleum
oil that safely and quickly
removes deposits from the engine oil system. The
concentrated formula
limits viscosity reduction and protects the engine
during the cleaning
process which is conducted under idle or no-load
conditions. To prevent
damage to internal engine parts, never drive a car
after adding CHEMTOOL
Oil System Cleaner to the oil. Circulate for 2-3
minutes, drain the oil
to remove the engine deposits from the
engine.
BENEFITS:
# FREES STICKY VALVES, LIFTERS AND RINGS.
#
IMPROVES OIL FLOW THROUGHOUT ENGINE.
# REMOVES GUM, SLUDGE AND VARNISH FROM
ENGINE OIL SYSTEM.
# CONTAINS POWERFUL SOLVENTS TO QUICKLY DISSOLVE DEPOSITS
IN 2-3 MINUTES.
# LUBRICATING OIL COMPONENTS HELPS MAINTAIN ENGINE OIL
VISCOSITY DURING
CLEANING.
# CONCENTRATED FORMULA IN 15 OUNCE BOTTLE
HELPS MINIMIZE EXCESSIVE
VISCOSITY REDUCTION DURING CLEANING.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/default.htm
PN# 4015
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/default.htm
PN# 0116
Thank you , John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 22:00:45
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
Try the racer's cure before you go pouring
chemicals into your fine motor. Take your car out to a deserted road and run the
living shit out of it. Run it up to 7200 rpm in every gear, and just hammer the
beejesus out of it. After 15-20 minutes of such abuse, your lifter tick should
be gone, and it should stay away for several weeks. If not, you can try
chemistry. At the very least, you would have had a good time.
Rich/Slow
Old Poop
At 07:44 PM 1/29/03 -0800, John Sheehan wrote:
>Has anyone
tried this or their B-12 for Lifter ticking?
>
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 22:52:32
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
On Wednesday, January 29, 2003 9:44 PM "John
Sheehan" wrote:
"Has anyone tried this or their B-12 for Lifter ticking?
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------
John
I
don't have 3SI owner tenure like many of the "track warriors" reading
this,
however I'll chime in about my experience with "Lifter Tick" and share
some
of what I've read here at Team3S in the past.
I have only used a
"cleaner" once so I don't have an opinion or experience
for brand
effectiveness. I was told by someone who seemed knowledgeable to
run a
cleaner for an extended duration (1500 miles) so it could do the
job
intended. I think there are more factors to this issue than dirty
lifters
though.
#1 - I've *read* that 1st Gen lifters are more prone
to this ticking problem
than 2nd Gen lifters due to some redesign. They are
swappable if I recall.
Was it from 97 on that made advances here?
#2 -
I decided soon after I purchased my VR4 to run synthetics everywhere. I
chose
the Redline product while looking for some cure to the notchy
shifting
phenomenon in the Getrags. (And this can be a near religious
experience for
some of us so let's not go to the oil well again ok?
:-)
a) I added CD2 and run this for about 1000 Miles
b) Drained and
added the RedLine 10W30
To my dismay, I had worse lifter tick than
before!!!
After a little poking around (reading) I discovered that this
ticking can
happen if you OVERFILL (which I did but seemingly it was such an
innocent
amount). What's the problem? The crank agitates the oil introducing
air
which is an *enemy* of our lifters. I crawled under the car and drained
to
the dip stick full line and things were much better. (but still not
perfect)
#3 - Run the "livin snot" out of her for a day! I had *read*
posts here on
TEAM3S from some from the weekend warriors claiming the lifter
tick would go
away after a day at the track. High RPM's, heat,
whatever...just cleans
things out I suppose.
Sure enough, a friend of
mine and I went out and were *very bad* for a day.
600 very fast and hard
miles later that day, the lifter ticking was
absolutely gone. The
ticking does seem to return after some weeks of
mundane daily driving
behaviors but I can say it has never been as bad as
when I first purchased my
VR4 in Nov 2001.
My observation? <- And
the next statement is interesting to evaluate
because it really is true
supposition on my part
DO NOT FILL TO THE FULL LINE ON YOUR DIP STICK
- back her off a little when
you change oil - just a cup is all. You will
notice a difference if your car
is like mine. I believe the full line is
right on the border of causing
crank induced oil agitation. I have been
curious about this for some time.
Are the crank lobes indeed at such a close
margin of clearance to oil in the
pan that a full or slight over full causes
foaming? I'm convinced this must
be true but I have never had this engine
apart to try and measure.
At the end of the day, possibly the brand of
oil you use may be less
important than how full you fill? I don't know... A
lot of this is
conjecture I admit and your mileage may
vary!
Dan
97 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 22:59:35
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lifter Ticking #2
On Wednesday, January 29, 2003 10:00 PM <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
said:
"Try the racer's cure before you go pouring chemicals into your fine
motor.
Take your car out to a deserted road and run the living shit out of
it.
<snip>
- -------------
Rich
So *YOU* were the one I
remember that had said this before waaaay back
sometime early last
year.
It can attest that your method does work. (plus it's kinda
fun)
Dan
97 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 20:53:32
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: NASA
event --- California Speedway
Another chance for us Southern California
racers to get some track
time, you Notherners are welcome but you don't seem
to like to travel
very far :-(
California Speedway is located in
Fontana [ Riverside area ]. The track
is an oval with an infield road
course --- We'll be using the Grand Am
configuration. It uses the infield
course plus about 2/3 of the oval to
create a high pucker factor driving
event. I plan on going for 2 days,
Saturday and Sunday --- If you're
interested contact me and I'll start
a list of attendees.
http://www.californiaspeedway.com/
look under maps -- auto competition
course.
NASA HPDE groups 1 thru 4
plus a batch fo race groups
March 8 - 9 2003 --- cost $275 for two days or
$199 for one day.
Friday is available for test and tune for an additional
$199 --- that's
usually only open to the racer types but the signup says it's
open
to all ?!?!?
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 21:46:07
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
cold, angry clutch booster?
I went to Tahoe and after she sat for about 6
hours in below freezing temp
(I went skiing)... I turned her on and the
clutch booster was clearly not
working. It was a bear to shift! The car
heated to op. temp. Still nothing.
But after I drove 50 miles it started
working again. I've put 500 miles on
the car since and it has worked
perfectly. What's up? Anything to worry
about?
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 00:53:41
-0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tein HA install
Hello All,
Has anyone out there installed
the Tein HA coilovers. I am thinking
about getting a set and am just
wondering what I can expect from it.
Joseph
93 vr4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 22:00:50
-0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Lifter Ticking #2
Well gee! Thank you! I have tried both techniques. Have
run both Mobil 1
20/50 and Redline 10/40 for the last 30K.
It comes back
again!! Such is life. John
Dan Hyde
wrote:
>On Wednesday, January 29, 2003 10:00 PM <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
said:
>"Try the racer's cure before you go pouring chemicals into your
fine motor.
>Take your car out to a deserted road and run the living shit
out of it.
><snip>
>-------------
>Rich
>So *YOU*
were the one I remember that had said this before waaaay back
>sometime
early last year.
>It can attest that your method does work. (plus it's
kinda fun)
>Dan
>97 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 22:50:11
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front clip?
I found a 1st
gen front clip from a guy that has had it for ever. Really
weird how I found
it too. Called a JDM engine reseller whom told me to call
a guy, he told me
to call another guy, then another guy then the next guy is
the one with the
clip... Anyway, its a JDM front clip. Everything from the
dash on forward.
Right-hand drive obviously but the engine and tranny and
stuff is all the
same as ours. Full clip, one fender is a bit trashed,
engine, gauges, tranny,
transfer case, hood, all the stuff under the hood,
headlights, bumper, etc.
The odometer reads 58K which is in Kilometers, that
comes out to about 36k
miles.
However, here is the catch. Guy claims no compression tests were
ever done.
He has no idea if the engine and tranny are any good, but says
that
everything looks fine. I got pictures too, but its not like you can see
a
broken rod from the outside.... Everything looks alright, the car even
has
some very light mods on it, Greddy BOV, HKS intake and some other misc
junk.
Clip sold as-is no warranty. The thing is too far away for me to look
at
it... Guy is also not willing to do much in the way of tearing it apart
--
says he does not want to waste time.
Another thing that got me
stumped is that although we know its a first gen,
nobody seems to know what
year the thing is. I would love a late 92-93 for
the 25 spleen tranny! I
tried to have him go look at the CAS to see if its
adjustable or not (91-92
had that), he said he could not find one on there
and some book he had said
that ealy 91's didnt have one... Sounds bogus to
me, I know people whom have
91's and everyone has a CAS. Is there any other
way to tell what year the car
is? Obviously the sticker in the door-well is
still in Japan...
The
main question here is what do you think that is worth? The guy wants
$4500
shipped, that sounds a bit steep to me. Yea its got mass low miles,
but could
have a broken rod and a shredded tranny for all I know...
Help?
Thanks,
Tyson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 22:03:51
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Weird Headlight Problem
No, I have not heard of this kind of problem.
Also, this makes absolutely no
sense to me since I'm not aware of lights
having a certain voltage
requirement to switch on. Then again, my degree
isn't in Xenon Light Bulb
Engineering. Here's my two cents.
Before
having a field day, take those bulbs out and wire them directly
through. See
if they work on the bench @ 12 to 14 volts. Remember: do this
safely. If they
work fine, then go on...
I think you should start by checking your
alternator amp output. Are you
running an aftermarket radio? If so, try using
your lights without it. Also,
you may want to install a capacitor in-line
with the headlight circuit and
maybe even use a thicker gauge
wire.
Besides that, here is something that may help (or hurt) your
situation:
Cleaning the contacts: This is generally the first thing
you do, but in our
cars there is a corrosion-proofing on many electrical
contacts and if you
clean corrosion-proofed contacts, they can rust in the
future. Be sure you
figure out whether or not the said coating is on the
headlight bulb contacts
before you rush in and sand it off!
And
finally, I know that halogen bulbs should be installed without getting
any
fingerprints on the surface. This is because fingerprints on the bulbs
will
cause them to heat unevenly and decrease their lifespan. I'm not sure
if this
applies to Xenons, but it sure can't hurt to be safe when you spend
that kind
of money on bulbs.
Good luck,
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 01:12:06
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: zMax
I was sitting around late at night about a week ago
listening to the Speed
Channel for some "white noise" while doing working and
an info commercial
started running about zMax. (the Speed Channel is a
television cable
network devoted to motor vehicle racing for our friends
outside the USA in
case this isn't known)
http://www.zmax.com/index.cfmI've
never been predisposed to use additives in the engine oil but this
outfit
sure had a compelling story to tell when they went through their
spiel and
then introduces Carroll Shelby and some well know professional
racers as
spokes people.
It darn near made me jump on the web and buy the product
but I withheld the
urge long enough to search the web. I found a reference to
some law suit
filed through (or by?) the Federal Trade Commission back in
2001. I don't
know specifically what the basis of the law suite was
about - I didn't make
an effort to pursue any further due to time.
Has
anyone used this zMax stuff? It claims to me a micro lubricant -
to
reduce engine wear, etc.
Dan
97 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 01:11:39
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: zMax
Snake Oil.
find a racer that still has any
resemblance of a -career- to pay the
bills, and THEN i'll show you a product
that works...maybe.
On Thu, 30 Jan 2003, Dan Hyde wrote:
> I
was sitting around late at night about a week ago listening to the Speed
>
Channel for some "white noise" while doing working and an info
commercial
> started running about zMax. (the Speed Channel is a
television cable
> network devoted to motor vehicle racing for our friends
outside the USA in
> case this isn't known)
>
http://www.zmax.com/index.cfm>
I've never been predisposed to use additives in the engine oil but this
>
outfit sure had a compelling story to tell when they went through their
>
spiel and then introduces Carroll Shelby and some well know professional
>
racers as spokes people.
>
> It darn near made me jump on the web
and buy the product but I withheld the
> urge long enough to search the
web. I found a reference to some law suit
> filed through (or by?) the
Federal Trade Commission back in 2001. I don't
> know specifically
what the basis of the law suite was about - I didn't make
> an effort to
pursue any further due to time.
>
> Has anyone used this zMax
stuff? It claims to me a micro lubricant - to
> reduce engine wear,
etc.
>
> Dan
> 97 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 12:34:18
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What would you say is a fair price for a JDM front clip?
What
the heck is JDM ???
Well, in the engine bay there is a plate at the
firewall that should have
the VIN (at least we have this) so you could check
this of course.
Furthermore, the features of the years are different in many
markets. In
Europe the 1993 already had the larger brakes and other stuff the
1st gen
did not have. In Japan and Aussi the story is even more different,
some
hybrids were around and so on.
You will never know what has
happened to that car. Was the guy running it at
1.2 bars of boost ? Did the
tranny lock up, are the bearings cracked or do
the pistons have holes in it ?
This guy wants to get rid of the junk, so I'd
also say take it or leave it. A
broken rod can be seen without problems as
most of those damages result in a
serious block or oil pan damage ! But why
do you expect the engine is faulty
? The block and crank is often the last
thing that is dead more the timing
belt slipped or the pistons have hols or
broken rings.
I bought two
engines without knowing if their internals were ok. We looked
at the engine
on a shelf, I checked the turbos for too much play, the block
for any strange
sign and the timing belt. All was ok....also the later
compression check. On
the second I brought my mobile compression checker
with me and checked the
front row. One was a little low bu we took it
anyways. In the car it turned
out that everything was ok again.
If you feel bad about prices and if
there are too much uncertanties, don't
get it.
Roger
93' &
96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
To: "'Team3S'"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: What would you say is a
fair price for a JDM front clip?
> I found a 1st gen front clip
from a guy that has had it for ever. Really
> weird how I found it too.
Called a JDM engine reseller whom told me to
call
> a guy, he told me
to call another guy, then another guy then the next guy
is
> the one
with the clip... Anyway, its a JDM front clip. Everything from the
> dash
on forward. Right-hand drive obviously but the engine and tranny and
>
stuff is all the same as ours. Full clip, one fender is a bit trashed,
>
engine, gauges, tranny, transfer case, hood, all the stuff under the
hood,
> headlights, bumper, etc. The odometer reads 58K which is in
Kilometers,
that
> comes out to about 36k miles.
>
>
However, here is the catch. Guy claims no compression tests were
ever
done.
> He has no idea if the engine and tranny are any good, but
says that
> everything looks fine. I got pictures too, but its not like
you can see a
> broken rod from the outside.... Everything looks alright,
the car even has
> some very light mods on it, Greddy BOV, HKS intake and
some other misc
junk.
> Clip sold as-is no warranty. The thing is too
far away for me to look at
> it... Guy is also not willing to do much in
the way of tearing it apart --
> says he does not want to waste
time.
>
> Another thing that got me stumped is that although we know
its a first
gen,
> nobody seems to know what year the thing is. I would
love a late 92-93 for
> the 25 spleen tranny! I tried to have him go look
at the CAS to see if its
> adjustable or not (91-92 had that), he said he
could not find one on there
> and some book he had said that ealy 91's
didnt have one... Sounds bogus to
> me, I know people whom have 91's and
everyone has a CAS. Is there any
other
> way to tell what year the car
is? Obviously the sticker in the door-well
is
> still in
Japan...
>
> The main question here is what do you think that is
worth? The guy wants
> $4500 shipped, that sounds a bit steep to me. Yea
its got mass low miles,
> but could have a broken rod and a shredded
tranny for all I know... Help?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 06:15:51
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Seats
I love my Forza's... I took one 950 mile trip with
them so far, and
numerous 300 mile trips... The only thing to complain
about is the fact
that there is only one seating position, so, your ass will
get sore.
You can try to move around and find different positions, but you
are
limited as the seat is only one form really... Very much so worth
it,
IMHO, I wouldn't trade them for leather seats again... I have
never
been given any shit by the police around here, and state
inspection,
well, lets put it this way, My car's never been through a
thorough state
inspection. I honestly don't know the legality of them
or not, but, if
you wish to retain the stock seatbelts, there is a mounting
point for
them on the Corbeau sliders...
http://66.69.13.210:880/resized/corbeau.jpghttp://66.69.13.210:880/resized/front1.jpgI
got more shit for the front license plate being where it is than the
seats,
in fact, when I got pulled over for the lack of a front license
plate, the
officer asked if my harness bar was "homemade" to which I
responded,
no.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Eric
Sent: Wednesday,
January 29, 2003 5:17 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Seats
I
think I am going to go with the Corbeau Forza II seats. Anyone have
an
opinion on them?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:46:24
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SMOKING
There is a thread on 3SI that should answer some of
your questions.
http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=116025Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From:
RP5050@aol.com To:
TEAM3S@stealth-3000gt.st Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 6:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: SMOKING
I HAVE
READ SOME OF THE INFO ON AN ENGINE SMOKING AT IDLE AND IT SEEM IT IS
THE
VALVE SEALS & VALVE GUIDES NEED REPLACING. MY QUESTION IS, IF THE
STEALTH
I HAVE SAT FOR APPROX. 2 YRS COULD THIS HAVE CAUSE THE SEALS &
VALVE GUIDES TO
GET HARD AND GO BAD? AND IS IT POSSIBLE FOR THE BACK YARD
MECHANIC TO REPLACE
THESE PARTS DO TO THERE IS A MONEY PROBLEM AT THIS
TIME.
HELP!
RON " 91"
STEALTH
ES
LOVE MY STEALTH
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:26:47
-0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: zMax
Lemme preface this by saying that I've been in TV for
about ten years now.
Just because the speed channel sold these people a
half hour's worth of time
to market their products does not lend that product
ANY credibility. This
is simply target marketing at it's best. If
they thought Aunt Bee would buy
the stuff they'd buy a half hour on the
religious channel.
Just to be safe, if you hear that annoying Billie Mays
endorsing any product
(the last thing he sold was OXI-CLEAN....what the hell
does he know about
motor oil), RUN!!! It's probably not what it
advertises to be. Over the
years, I've seen (and been forced to sit through,
because it's my job) MANY
informercials advertising products that are
supposed to improve the
performance of your car. Thinking back, it
seems that every single one
resulted in some sort of F.T.C. action,
eventually.
Go with what's proven, not something they need a slick
salesman to talk you
into.
My two cents.
- -Jeff
Crabtree
KTVI FOX 2 Technical Engineer
St. Louis, MO
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Dan Hyde
Sent: Thursday,
January 30, 2003 1:12 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: zMax
I was
sitting around late at night about a week ago listening to the Speed
Channel
for some "white noise" while doing working and an info commercial
started
running about zMax. (the Speed Channel is a television cable
network
devoted to motor vehicle racing for our friends outside the USA in
case this
isn't known)
http://www.zmax.com/index.cfmI've
never been predisposed to use additives in the engine oil but this
outfit
sure had a compelling story to tell when they went through their
spiel and
then introduces Carroll Shelby and some well know professional
racers as
spokes people.
It darn near made me jump on the web and buy the product
but I withheld the
urge long enough to search the web. I found a reference to
some law suit
filed through (or by?) the Federal Trade Commission back in
2001. I don't
know specifically what the basis of the law suite was
about - I didn't make
an effort to pursue any further due to time.
Has
anyone used this zMax stuff? It claims to me a micro lubricant -
to
reduce engine wear, etc.
Dan
97 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 06:57:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
trans case recall question
I just got the recall done yesterday and had a
few questions. Is a
crack in the case the only way they will swap out the
whole thing? On
my bill it states that the splines on the trans. output shaft
and
splines inside input shaft are pointed instead of squared off and
the
recall does not cover it. Are they more worried about it just
leaking
that the splines messing up. They did change the seals and said
there
were only like 3 in it. Thanks, Casey '91 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 09:59:25
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: trans case recall question
Recall does not cover the condition of
the shafts, only leakage.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey
Spivey [mailto:spiv99@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 9:58
AM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: trans case recall question
I just got the recall done yesterday
and had a few questions. Is a
crack in the case the only way they will swap
out the whole thing? On
my bill it states that the splines on the trans.
output shaft and
splines inside input shaft are pointed instead of squared
off and the
recall does not cover it. Are they more worried about it just
leaking
that the splines messing up. They did change the seals and said
there
were only like 3 in it. Thanks, Casey '91 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 10:29:09
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: cold, angry clutch booster?
I had something weird happen to
my brakes (booster or something else) last
winter also on an unusually cold
day. It was as if I partially lost my
power brake assist all of a sudden. I
have been driving with those
"underpowered" brakes for a year now. Recently I
bought a used brake
booster, and clutch booster too just in case, and I will
install then some
time soon to see if things improve.
Philip
'95
R/T TT
I went to Tahoe and after she sat for about 6 hours in below
freezing temp
(I went skiing)... I turned her on and the clutch booster
was clearly not
working. It was a bear to shift! The car heated to op. temp.
Still nothing.
But after I drove 50 miles it started working again. I've put
500 miles on
the car since and it has worked perfectly. What's up? Anything
to worry
about?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 07:55:59
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
cold, angry clutch booster?
Best guess would be moisture or gunked-up [
I'm a trained professional, don't
try to use these words at home ] check
valve to the vacuum reservoir. After
sufficent heat soaking it started to
work again.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 29, 2003 9:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: cold, angry clutch
booster?
> I went to Tahoe and after she sat for about 6 hours in
below freezing temp
> (I went skiing)... I turned her on and the
clutch booster was clearly not
> working. It was a bear to shift! The car
heated to op. temp. Still nothing.
> But after I drove 50 miles it started
working again. I've put 500 miles on
> the car since and it has worked
perfectly. What's up? Anything to worry
> about?
>
>
Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2 #67
**************************************
