Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 29 2003 Volume
02 : Number 066
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:48:50 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Identity kit for VR4?
I have the identity kit on my Stealth TT. Shawn is probably right IF
you want a piece of cheap vinyl on your car. The identity kit from Chapor
looks EXACTLY like the factory, raised lettering. It is not simply a piece
of cheap vinyl.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shawn Keren
[mailto:nouveau3@attbi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 12:39 AM
Personally I'm not big on things like this but if you want one make a copy
of the page and take it to any sign shop that does vinyl. They'll do it for
about a third of the price.
------------------------------
Hate to be stupid, but I don't get ANY of the jpg images of the decals when
I go to this link. Any suggestions for a dropout from the information
age?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 07:32:57 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
I was under the impression that a dual exhaust would flow better because
the exhaust pulses from the two engine banks don't interfere with each other -
not true?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan
Sent: Monday,
January 27, 2003 10:27 PM
True dual? A waste period. There is nothing that 2 pipes would do better
than one slightly larger one. And the weight will go up no matter how you look
at it. Trust me man, the "True Dual" was the first exhaust that I made and tried
to market. Although power gains, sound and looks were all pretty good, I decided
to drop the project because there was nothing that system did that could not be
done with a good downpipe and single shot cat-back.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:16:00 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New to modifications...
For the turbo cars the exhaust pulses are eliminated by the turbine --- I'm
not sure if they still need a crossover though, I would think not.
Jim
Berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
> I was under the impression that a dual exhaust would flow better
> because the exhaust pulses from the two engine banks don't interfere
> with each other - not true?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:27:49 -0600
From: "Lim, Yong H PV2"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Questions: 2nd 60k service and others
Well, I just got a 93 3000GT VR4 yesterday and the mileage on this car is
about 120k so I was thinking that another 60k service should be done.(I'm not
even sure if there was 60k service done at 60k).
Beside that, I got couple
more questions:
1. The shift knob and shift boot are ragged
and I am thinking of changing them asap, do you guys have any recommendation on
what I should get? I looked at some websites and found MOMO stuffs and
some other brands. Should I just a shift knob and boot or buy an entire
shifter conversion kit? Btw, how much would it cost to install them on a
auto shop?
2. I'm thinking of buy a MP3/CD dash-in receiver
and I found some decent ones at carstereo.com but there weren't enough reviews
on the site so do you guys have any recommendation on some good ones with the
price ranging from $200-350?
3. The clutch on this car is
really stiff, it goes down pretty easy until half-way then you really got to
push it down to get it completely depressed. I'm pretty sure this is not normal
so I'm trying to change a clutch. However, I'm not sure if I have to buy an
entire clutch kit or just some parts. Can anyone tell me what should I get
and how much is it going to cost me to install in a shop?(I already got the
price of a clutch kit from Herrington-don mitsu. for 215 or
something)
4. There is an ugly hole in the front dash panel,
is there any way to cover that up or should I get a new front panel? And
if I have to get a new one, how much does it cost to buy the part and to
install?
5. The floor mats are kind of worn out too so I'm
thinking of getting new ones. Is there any place I get a stock ones or
something similar to that?
Btw, I'm sorta clueless when it
comes to car mechanic stuff, can you guys recommend me some books or websites
that covers all the basic stuffs about the car.
Now, on that
2nd 60k service, I guess I'll ask you guys more specific questions once I take
my car to the dealer this Saturday.
Thank you all for reading and any
helpful comments are appreciated.
Have a nice day,
everyone!!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:57:02 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Questions: 2nd 60k service and others
Hi
Where do you live man ? If I did everything at the shop here in CA
what you want to do I probably could get another 3000GT for that :))
> 3. The clutch on this car is really stiff, it goes down pretty
easy
> until half-way then you really got to push it down to get it
> completely depressed. I'm pretty sure this is not normal
> so I'm
trying to change a clutch. However, I'm not
> sure if I have to buy
an entire clutch kit or just
> some parts. Can anyone tell me what
should I get and how much is it
> going to cost me to install in a
shop?(I already got the price of a
> clutch kit from Herrington-don
mitsu. for 215 or something)
Maybe you have to adjust free play or
something. It looks it's adjusted the way I like :). You can test it anyway.
Reach 50 mph push the clutch, let engine idle, shift to 3rd 2nd ? gear and drop
the clutch. If car jumps fiercely the clutch is ok.
> Btw, I'm sorta clueless when it comes to car mechanic stuff, can you
> guys recommend me some books or websites that covers all the basic
> stuffs about the car.
This website and you can buy that CD
with scanned Mitsubishi repair manual.
BTW How much did you pay for the car ?
andrius
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:02:05 -0700
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Questions: 2nd 60k service and others
Your first investment should be the shop manuals. You really should
learn to work on the car yourself (if you have tools and a place) or
else you will be spending mad money in labor. I could never afford to
have the dealer or someone else work on my car. There is lots of help
from the list here and 3SI...so you will never be totally in the
dark. The clutch is kinda stiff on these cars...it could be an
aftermarket one as well...anyone who drives my car with the RPS stalls
it for like the first 2 minutes.
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
- - K&N, EGR BlockOffs, Port & Polished Heads, Ported Manifolds,
Wiseco
Forged Pistons, GTPro 347s, MBC, DN Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL, Stillen DP,
3SX Crank Pulley, RPS 6 Puck, Weight Redux
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:15:12 US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
O2 sensor simulators
I guess I need to ask this a couple of different ways.
Of those of you who have removed or gutted your pre cats,
1) What year
is your car?
2) Do you have a check engine light?
What about moving the back sensor behind a high flow main cat and removing
the
front pre-cat/gutting the back pre-cat?
What about placing a platinum screen over the back O2 sensor?
Course and an in-line resistance - if that is all that is required - seems
like
an easy solution. Does anybody know a good resource (better yet -
someone who
has the lessons learned from experience) for this kind of
approach/solution?
thanks
bob atkins - g8rbob
'99 VR-4
> This is a rumor as I have not tried it (and don't need to with a
> '92VR4) but putting a simple radio shack resistor on the sender wire
> of the O2 sensor should do the trick. All the ECU is looking for is a
> lower Oxygen reading on one of them, right? I dono, just am
idea.
>
> Tyson
------------------------------
Check out the email address. Private Lim is at FT Sill, Oklahoma by
my best guess. He should have access to an Auto Hobby shop with lifts,
tools, and technical assistance. Some of these places have all the Tech
Bulletins for all makes on CDROM.
1. Shift boot is an easy swap and fairly cheap even from the
dealer. Several select dealers will give you a discount and mail order
stuff. The stock knob is too expensive for me. Somebody here is
bound to have switched for an aftermarket.
2. There are lots of opinions on stereos, but the first one is does
the stock one work? Does it have any blown speakers? Does the power
antenna work? With an aftermarket you may have problems using the power
antenna.
3. There are some simple reasons why the clutch might be stiff. There is a
vacuum supply hose to the clutch booster which helps you move the clutch master
cylinder. That hose may be disconnected, leaking, or clogged. There is a
check valve in the hose that can malfunction. That hose is
relatively cheap to repair or replace.
4. What used to fill the ugly hole? A gauge or something? Replacing
the dashboard is a pain in the rear, but can be done given sufficient
motivation.
5. Stock floor mats are fairly reasonable.
Does the car have any modifications as far as you can tell? Is there
a boost controller, boost gauge, or K&N intake?
Yes, it's time for 60K service including a water pump replacement.
It'll cost about $1K to have it done. DIY is a big job, and best done with
help.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 14:40:00 -0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore"
<
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: N/A SOHC 60k Service questions.
Have you checked out the FAQ page? I know some of your questions are
answered there:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ.htm.
Also,
www.speed316.com has a lot of good
info, and answers some of your other questions. In the mean time, I have a
couple replies to your questions:
> 1. Spark plugs. What do you recommend I purchase? My
dealer quoted
> me $15 per plug!
$15 each is high, but good plugs for this car are going to be more than
you'd expect. Don't get bit by the "cheap" bug.
> 2. Coolant. Your recommendation would be what? I
live in KY, and
> the winters are cold (7 degrees now), and the summers
are hot and
> humid (96 degrees in August). Should I just let
Mitsu. use what they
> have?
I've never had a problem with any flavor of coolant, just stay away from
the cheap stuff. Also, some folks strongly recommend using RedLine Water
Wetter additive in the coolant, it seems to boost the cooling performance of the
system.
> 7. Manual transmission. I want to replace my transmission
fluid. I
> have the manual 5 speed (keep in mind this is a non
turbo). I want to
> run RedLine in here too. What do you
recommend? I seen sites that
> say you should use a 50/50 mixture
of 2 types of fluid. Does this
> only apply to the VR4
transmission? Regardless, what Redline fluid
> should I put in my
tranny, or should I just leave it alone?
I put the 50/50 RedLine blend in my tranny, has worked great for me.
Problem is, I forget which two fluids I put in. One of them was the
MT90...
Hope this helps.
Dennis
93 Stealth ES
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 14:16:26 -0600
From: "Lim, Yong H PV2"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Need help, guys.(forgot to change my subject line in my last email
l...)
I really appreciate everyone's replies on my questions but now, I'm facing
one more BIG) problem. Btw, I'm a specialist now, not pv2.(I'm going to
DOIM change it one of these days, I've been procrastinating on this.)
Well, I've talked to insurance company and my NCOIC about getting 93
3000GT. I'm 21 (22 in about 3 weeks) and this will be my first car if I make
final payment today. I already have $1000 deposit on this vehicle and this
car costs $6500. I'm planning to drive this vehicle for about a year to
two-three years. And my supervisor is telling me to just get a brand new
car or something in late 90's models. He's saying it's not right to put
whole a lot of money like that in an old car. I disagreed with some of the
things he said but he had some points.
I was already expecting to
spend some extra money on this vehicle after I bought it but my supervisor
talking about engine blowing-up and stuff is making me think about this
again. He's telling me to go and get the deposit back from the dealer and
look around for one more week.
This car has 120k mileage like I said
in my previous email and I'm not really sure if I should get this car or
not. I'm not mechanically inclined but I'm willing to learn and play with
the car.
So here are my questions:
Should I buy this car for $6500, this car is 93 3000GT VR4
VIN:
JA3BN74K5PY010564 and is this a good deal?(please understand that this is my
first time dealing with dealer, insurance company and all that..)
If I have to go with a newer model, what's a good model year for 3000GT
and
how much should I expect to pay from a dealer?
I can see that almost all the members if not all, have much more
experiences with car and are more knowledgeable in this stuff than I am and I
really seek all of your help in any way possible to make a best decision in
buying my first car. I'll be waiting for replies from all you members out there,
thank you.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 12:25:40 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
1995 VR4 with no check engine light
- -----Original Message-----
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSent: Tuesday,
January 28, 2003 6:15 AM
I guess I need to ask this a couple of different ways.
Of those of you who have removed or gutted your pre cats,
1) What year
is your car?
2) Do you have a check engine light?
What about moving the back sensor behind a high flow main cat and removing
the front pre-cat/gutting the back pre-cat?
What about placing a platinum screen over the back O2 sensor?
Course and an in-line resistance - if that is all that is required - seems
like an easy solution. Does anybody know a good resource (better yet -
someone who has the lessons learned from experience) for this kind of
approach/solution?
thanks
bob atkins - g8rbob
'99 VR-4
------------------------------
Your NCOIC is looking after your best interests. If you're not
mechanically inclined you should expect to become mechanically inclined, spend a
lot of money on the car, or have the car unavailable for long periods of
time. If you WANT to become mechanically inclined, and have some help
locally available, this is a great opportunity to do it.
I have a '93 VR4 with 108K miles. I also have a '94 VR4 with 78K
miles. I can afford to fix the cars and can afford to have one broken and
still get to work. My son has a '93 VR4 with 126K miles. He also has a
second car. My son's first car was a '93 VR4 with about 58K miles.
120K miles is a lot of miles for ANY car that you must depend on to get to
and from work.
If you get a car with less than 60K miles, you should be able to get an
extended warranty that will cover major failures. Buying from a dealer
usually makes it easier to get the warranty. Best warranty we've had was
from GMAC (son bought his second VR4 used from a GM dealer). On a VR4 the
warranty is going to run about $1800. Then the 60K maintenance is going to
run $1000. Just add that to the purchase price and you will have an idea
how much a newer VR4 with just under 60K miles is going to cost.
Have someone else, like your NCOIC, look at the car and drive it.
Maybe even take it to a mechanic and pay him maybe $60 to do a complete check to
tell you what is good or bad about the car. What might be a good deal on
that car for me may not be a good deal on that car for you.
Chuck Willis
I'm not mechanically inclined
but I'm willing to learn and play with
the car.
So here are my questions:
Should I buy this car for $6500, this car is 93 3000GT VR4
VIN:
JA3BN74K5PY010564 and is this a good deal?(please understand that this is my
first time dealing with dealer, insurance company and all that..)
If I have to go with a newer model, what's a good model year for 3000GT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:37:24 -0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Questions: 2nd 60k service and others
Chucks advice is great!!!!
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org
If
you have the a Auto-shop on base that you can use with tools and help,
it's a great learning experience. Working on it in a parking lot of an
apartment or barracks is not fun. If you need to commute off base then
maybe not. Either way, what ever you decide on get a independent
mechanic to do a pre-sale first ( best if it is one familiar with the
car type). Your supervisor is just concerned about your best interests
and being helpful!!! Be grateful ! john
Lim, Yong H PV2 wrote:
>Fort Sill, OK.
------------------------------
>Should I buy this car for $6500, this car is 93 3000GT VR4
>VIN:
JA3BN74K5PY010564 and is this a good deal?(please understand that
>this
is my first time dealing with dealer, insurance company and all
>that..)
No. Not with 120,000 miles. Way too much. We sold my daughter's absolutely
perfect 91 Stealth with 42,000 miles for $7,000.
>
>If I have to go
with a newer model, what's a good model year for 3000GT
>and how much
should I expect to pay from a dealer?
It's the mileage that should concern you. Also, don't buy one without a
warranty if you are worried about future repairs. So, it's low mileage plus
warranty divided by how much you can afford. I hope that you have checked into
the cost of insurance.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 14:21:41 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Questions: 2nd 60k service and others
Hi
Price is good, it's rather very cheap considering the fact that you
are buying from the dealer. Is the dealer just dealer who sells used junk
or new car dealer ? The later ones have some respect for the customers sometimes
and don't try to fool them.
> Should I buy this car for $6500, this car is 93 3000GT VR4
>
VIN: JA3BN74K5PY010564 and is this a good deal?(please understand
> that
this is my first time dealing with dealer, insurance company
> and all
that..)
>
> If I have to go with a newer model, what's a good model
year for
> 3000GT and how much should I expect to pay from a
dealer?
>
> I can see that almost all the members if not all, have
much more
> experiences with car and are more knowledgeable in this
stuff
> than I am and I really seek all of your help in any way
possible
> to make a best decision in buying my first car.
> I'll be
waiting for replies from all you members out there, thank you.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 23:47:15 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
93'3000GT TT no check engine light
> Of those of you who have removed or gutted your pre cats,
> 1)
What year is your car?
> 2) Do you have a check engine
light?
>
> What about moving the back sensor behind a high flow main
cat and
> removing the front pre-cat/gutting the back pre-cat?
>
What about placing a platinum screen over the back O2 sensor?
Hmm, I guess there must be a try and error solution
> Course and an in-line resistance - if that is all that is required -
> seems like an easy solution. Does anybody know a good
resource
> (better yet - someone who has the lessons learned from
experience)
> for this kind of approach/solution?
No idea... never been in the need for that.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 19:58:50 -0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
Did a little 3si.org search/research
Seems as if the Check Engine light is associated with some '96 and all
97-99. More specifically it is common among those of us with four (4)
countem 4, O2 sensors prior to the main cat. I have some of my space
system buddies and a few car buddies in discussion about how one might fool the
ECU into believing the O2 sensors are functioning properly. I am also
going to continue to research this as I can. I do not want to loose the
functionality of the diagnostics from the ECU to the driver. BUT I do want
to add a downpipe and kill the cats.
Bob Atkins
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 18:18:51 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
O2 sensor simulators
96 here with no cats and no light.
I didn't do anything special to the post cat O2 sensors...they're installed
in my ATR downpipe. Seems that the computer's programming just doesn't
pick up that the cats are on vacation. The only thing I can figure is that the
ECM is programmed to look for signs of a failing cat...not signs that it's
completely missing.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
January 28, 2003 5:58 PM
> Did a little 3si.org search/research
>
> Seems as if the
Check Engine light is associated with some '96 and all
> 97-99.
More specifically it is common among those of us with four (4)
> countem
4, O2 sensors prior to the main cat. I have some of my space
>
system buddies and a few car buddies in discussion about how one might
>
fool the ECU into believing the O2 sensors are functioning properly.
> I
am also going to continue to research this as I can. I do not want
>
to loose the functionality of the diagnostics from the ECU to the
>
driver. BUT I do want to add a downpipe and kill the cats.
>
>
Bob Atkins
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:23:50 -0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: O2
sensor simulators
Has anyone checked "Casper's Electronics, Inc"? They make O2
simulators for many cars.
John
bob atkins wrote:
>Did a little 3si.org search/research
>
>Seems as if the
Check Engine light is associated with some '96 and all
>97-99. More
specifically it is common among those of us with four (4)
>countem 4, O2
sensors prior to the main cat. I have some of my space
>system
buddies and a few car buddies in discussion about how one might
>fool the
ECU into believing the O2 sensors are functioning properly. I
>am
also going to continue to research this as I can. I do not want to
>loose the functionality of the diagnostics from the ECU to the
driver.
>BUT I do want to add a downpipe and kill the
cats.
>
>Bob Atkins
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 19:58:34 -0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
That's where I bought the ones for my car and they didn't work.
By the way, '96 with hopefully no CE light; new O2 sensors with no precats
and main cat.
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan
[mailto:johns@kyso.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 7:24 PM
>Has anyone checked "Casper's Electronics, Inc"? They make O2
>simulators for many cars. John
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 21:01:54 -0500
From: bob atkins <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
They look like RP01 to me. There are some very similar styles though
- as well. There should be someone close by that could verify that they
are RP01's or a photo or an e-mail to a tech at Enkei should work. Call
them direct at the number on their website (800-843-9145) and prearrange with
some one to look at your photo. I spoke with them several times to get an
Enkei RPM-2 wheel size that fit my '99 VR-4. Happy to say I have a set of
them for track times.
Bad Bob
'99VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:49:27 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Damaged - Enkie Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
The good news: I found out the model is an Enkie RP01
The bad news:
Discount Tire sleuthed for me up to the point of calling
Enkie corporate only
to find the RP01's have been discontinued (but still on their web).
Discount suggested the wheel might be reparable and that lifted my spirits
until a spin test on the balancing machine showed the 'barrel ?' of the wheel
had sprung a little. I supposed I'll do the ol' eBay searching and post on
some other forums to see if I can track down one of these. What a dumb
mistake. I wasn't even being bad at the time I doinked that curb!
Just to contribute a little technical here:
The RP01 18 x 9's weigh in
at 21.34 lbs (9.7 Kgs)
With Nitto NT 555 245/40 ZR18 (@ ~6/32 wear) the
weight is ~47 lb's (21.36 Kgs)
The RP01 strikes me as being reasonably light weight but then again I have
yet to start research to compare. Since un-sprung weight is not desirable,
I'll be looking for a replacement with weight being at least one important
criteria of the selection process. If anyone has opinions on manufactures
and/models that are "weight conscious", I'd be interested in reading.
By the way, Discount Tire really provided great customer service - a good
experience.
Thanks
Dan 97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 21:31:39 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
Wow Bob!
The RPM-2 is a nice looking wheel. I'm especially impressed at the weight
of 18 Lbs (8.18 Kgs) for the 18x9. I think I'm beginning to get a message
here. As weight decreases, price is going to increase to pay for the benefit.
These bad boys are +$400 list!
Thanks a for looking, doing a bit of leg work and for the feedback. I
located the RP01 info today while surfing around during lunch so didn't post a
status back until now. It's hard to imagine there isn't a grave yard full
of mismatched wheel sets somewhere out there. Surely others with RP01's
have had a boo boo somewhere along the line and ended up disposing the remaining
good wheels.
Thanks
Dan 97 VR4
bob atkins wrote on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:01 PM
>They look like
RP01 to me. There are some very similar styles though -
>as
well. There should be someone close by that could verify that they
>are RP01's or a photo or an e-mail to a tech at Enkei should work.
>Call them direct at the number on their website (800-843-9145) and
>prearrange with some one to look at your photo. I spoke with them
>several times to get an Enkei RPM-2 wheel size that fit my '99
VR-4.
>Happy to say I have a set of them for track times.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 22:09:50 -0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Crankshaft Gear Removal
I posted a problem last month
and I am at the end of the
installation
but cant seam to get the Crankshaft Gear off.
You cant use a
gear puller on it.
In my inspection of the Service manual I cant
find a
step by step for the Crankshaft Gear removal.
It only shows the crankshaft
Seal installation and
removal with the gear already removed.
I don't want
to pry on the back as I am afraid I will
damage the gear or the crank angle
sensor ring.
Any help would be appreciated
Steve.......
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:28:06 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Crankshaft Gear Removal
Once the bolt is removed it should slide off of the end of the crank. There
is a Woodruff key in there also so perhaps a little penetrating
oil and a
bit of prying.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
> I posted a problem last month
> and I am at the end of the
installation
> but cant seam to get the Crankshaft Gear off.
> You
cant use a gear puller on it.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 08:33:06 US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Damaged - Enkei Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
I got Discount Tire to special Order my Enkei RPM-2 rims direct from Enkei
for
me and paid $270 for them. They do not show up on the Discount
site. They are
18x9 with a 38mm offset.
They provide significantly more caliper and TEIN HA Coilover clearance than
stock even with 265x35x18 Kumho ecsta700 (new R-compound Kumho). My
only
regret is that they are 18's since I only use them off-road. 17's
provide a
better selection and better price on tires. When I find a
good looking,
inexpensive and light 17x9 that fits, I'll probably make a
move.
bad bob
'99VR-4
> Wow Bob!
>
> The RPM-2 is a nice looking wheel. I'm
especially impressed at the
> weight of 18 Lbs (8.18 Kgs) for the
18x9. I think I'm beginning to
> get a message here. As weight
decreases, price is going to increase to
> pay for the benefit. These bad
boys are +$400 list!
>
> Thanks a for looking, doing a bit of leg
work and for the feedback. I
> located the RP01 info today while
surfing around during lunch so
> didn't post a status back until
now. It's hard to imagine there isn't
> a grave yard full of
mismatched wheel sets somewhere out there.
> Surely others with
RP01's have had a boo boo somewhere along the line
> and ended up
disposing the remaining good wheels.
>
> Thanks
> Dan 97
VR4
------------------------------
Despite all the advices given to me from my supervisor and some of the
members, I just went ahead and bought the car last night. Now, I am not
sure if this is going to be a curse or blessing for me but I'm happy for
now. Like I said in my earlier mails, I am not mechanically inclined and
in need of quite a bit of help from all the members who are familiar with
3000GT. Is there any book which covers all the basic stuffs about the car,
I have been looking through Amazon but I can't seem to find the types of the
book I want.
Any recommendations on some good books for beginners
would be appreciated.
Btw, is there any of you who live close to where
I am at.(Fort Sill, OK) I am planning to do couple of things with this car and
any one on one help would be just great for me.
Here are the things I
want to do btw:
- - change the front mats(just want to know where should I
get it(either online or somewhere near where I live at and how much is it going
to cost)
- - fix the front panel(now I see it again yesterday, it's a not a
hole but a small cut on the plastic of the panel so I want to know if there is a
way to fix this) If it's hard to fix then I guess I'll just put some kind carpet
on the front panel
- - change the dash-in stereo(it works fine but it has no
CD player but just cassette. and radio so I need to change it) I didn't know
this before but there are some radio control buttons on the steering wheel, is
it still possible to use those buttons after installing a new one and how much
is it going to cost me to get a new one installed in a car stereo
shop.
P.S. About the 60k inspection, should I get it done at
Herrington-Don Mitsubishi in Dallas(about 3 hrs from here) or just a Mitsu.
dealer here?
Well, thank you for all the replies and advices
you guys have given me so far, I really appreciate and they have been really
helpful to say the least.
SPC Lim
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#66
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