Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Tuesday, January 28 2003   Volume 02 : Number 065
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 10:34:05 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
>So the Stillen downpipe replaces the front pre-cat - what about the
>rear one?
 
No, this is the complicated one ! Tyson's aluminized DP also eliminates the
front precat. The DP from ATR is stainless steel but has no flex section
(but never had any problems) and it doesn't replace the front section. Also
Greddy and HKS are normal steel and both do not replace the front one. No
DP replaces the rear at all due to the horrible design.
 
>So it looks like a full replacement exhaust is gonna run me between
>$750-$1200?
 
There is a Borla deal for $495 on, DP is around $450 and the precats can be
gutted (cost me $60 at a local shop). A testpipe is around $50. A note
about the Borla : get the three baffles from Borla customer service that
have to be inserted into the tubing to get rid of any droning. Otherwise
the borla is very good and you save a lot of weight. Also fitment is great
(compared with HKS and others !!). Also the ATR can be recommended if you
like the look. The ss quality is very high and It will last forever.
 
The DP all are 2 1/2" into 3" (HKS and Greddy are 2 - 2 1/2" small) so
don't worry about the size, it's big enough for everything.
 
Letting a shop do your own exhaust isn't bad at all. Get some OBX bomb
mufflers on ebay for $150 a pair and let one bend the tubes and make
hangers on them for around $200 or so. A single side is of course much
cheaper but I don't like the one side look much ;-) Since you have a 2nd
gen it would look odd ... just MHO.
 
Roger G.
93' & 96'3000GT TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:05:56 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECS malfunction
 
Most of the ECS malfunctions are caused by bad connections, but you already
checked this.
 
What about a bad button (I had this on the flip up switch) ? You may also
consult the workshop manual on CD as there is explained how to check ECS
for proper functionality.
 
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
 
At 18:48 26.01.2003 -0800, A. Kryjevski wrote:
>Hello:
>
>While I was contemplating suspension modifications my 1992 Stealth R/T
>went ahead in the opposite direction and developed an ECS problem.
 
<snip>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:21:14 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: where to get a deal on Krank Vent
 
Unfortunately, I don't know of any group buy so the price on their site is
what you have to pay for.
 
Invest in a cheap catch can (Summit has a nice but long one for $49) and
get the crank vents later :-)
 
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT (both crank-vented)
www.rtec.ch
 
At 18:50 26.01.2003 -0500, anthonymelillo wrote:
>I am looking to install one of the Krank Vents that I have heard so
>much about, but can not afford the $100+ for the kit I saw on
>their web site.  Does anyone know where I could get one cheaper ?
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks
>Anthony Melillo
>1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
>http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 06:46:29 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Damaged - Enkie Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
 
The VIA is a standard, not a model...  That stamping on the wheel indicates it passes  specification.  Can you take a picture, I could prolly tell you which model it is.  Wheel repair  is always a viable option, and is very reliable if done correctly.
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan Hyde
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 12:30 AM
 
<snip>
If the VIA model can't be found anywhere, I'll investigate wheel repair. I suppose it might be  possible.  Right now the damage is bad enough where every rotation of the tire causes sufficient  bead separation at the bend to hiss out/lose air.  It's a little weird since the issue manifests  itself as a 'ticking noise'
 
Wheel specifics:
ENKIE - VIA  18 x 9 JJ 42   -  These are numbers that are stamped on and
inside the wheel.  I'm assuming VIA must be the ENKIE model but I have no evidence of that  except for a stamp on one of the 5 spokes.. I'm hoping I can locate one of these wheels.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 08:19:34 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Bad trannies. When did Mitsu know?
 
Lemon laws differ from state to state, but most have significant mileage restrictions.  For  example, in PA, if my memory serves me right, the law applies to new cars provided the problem  is first reported during the first 12 months that the car is placed in service, and before the  car as 12K on the odometer.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Ninneman [mailto:dninneman@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 2:53 AM
 
Of course, the transmission problems are NOT a safety issue.  Poor
design either by Mitsu or Getrag.  If asked, I'm sure there would be a
lot of finger pointing and he said/she said.  What does the 'Lemon Law'
same about cases like this?
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:07:16 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
>So the Stillen downpipe replaces the front pre-cat - what about the
>rear one?
 
Still there. Has no effect on performance. Gut the rear cat in your copious free time, or wait  until you upgrade yer turbos.
 
>So it looks like a full replacement exhaust is gonna run me between
>$750-$1200?
 
Maybe $750. The Stillen is about $400 plus 30-45 min of labor to put it on, and a custom  catback, single-side exhaust (using the stock catback pipe) is $200. We just cut into the stock  catback pipe near the rear diff  and welded in two 45-deg bends to an Xlerator straight through  muffler. Actually, until you do lots of mods, the stock exhaust could stay on there. From the  cat back, it flows pretty good.
 
Rich/slow old poop/exhausted.>>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:07:01 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
> >So the Stillen downpipe replaces the front pre-cat - what about the
> >rear one?
>
> Still there. Has no effect on performance. Gut the rear cat in your
> copious free time, or wait until you upgrade yer turbos.
 
I do not agree here. Freeing up the exhaust - especially the precats - is the part of the tuning  that makes the rest working. So if you install a downpipe, testpipe and cat-back with the  pre-cats still in, the gain in performance is very limited. Especially in the high rpm area. Of  course one sees a gain on the track as the weight loss is very good compared to the stock stuff.
 
> Maybe $750. The Stillen is about $400 plus 30-45 min of labor to put
> it on, and a custom catback, single-side exhaust (using the stock
> catback pipe) is $200. We just cut into the stock catback pipe near
> the rear diff  and welded in two 45-deg bends to an Xlerator
> straight through muffler. Actually, until you do lots of mods, the
> stock exhaust could stay on there. From the cat back, it flows
> pretty good.
 
Yes and no. There is a resonator chamber in the stock exhaust that needs to go. Also the inner  diameter is too small and - as said before - the weight is just too much. On the other hand we  had a 3000GT here with 500hp running the stock exhaust. But I'm positive that the gain with an  aftermarket one would have been more for sure.
 
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT
www.rtec.ch
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 19:44:13 +0000
From: nouveau3@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
While I've got my heads off having the valves done, I'm installing an ATR
downpipe and gutting my precats. Pretty easy with them off the car. I'm curious
though, what would be the cons of not gutting the rear if you were to put on a
Stillen DP that replaces the front precat?
Not an issue for me as I'm gutting both but I've heard of folks running with
one and not the other.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:43:07 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
>I do not agree here. Freeing up the exhaust - especially the precats -
>is the part of the tuning that makes the rest working. So if you
>install a downpipe, testpipe and cat-back with the pre-cats still in,
>the gain in performance is very limited.
 
There are two problems with doing the rear cat:
1. It is a PITA -- a job best done when the turbos are replaced. 2. You cannot go back to stock.  If you save the old exhaust, you can put it back on there to pass emissions tests in an hour or  so.
 
>Actually, until you do lots of mods, the stock exhaust could stay on
>there. From the cat back, it flows pretty good.
>
>Yes and no <snip> On the other hand we had a 3000GT here with 500hp
>running the stock exhaust.
 
I think I said that.
 
We still don't know what "new to mods" has in mind. My mods keep it simple and inexpensive. If  he just wants to street race, then my way is fine. If he wants an 800 hp fire breathing monster,  then you are correct.
 
Rich/slow old poop
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:58:33 -0700
From: "Labonte, Dan" <DLabonte@SturmanIndustries.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
I am interpreting this as the Stillen replaces the front pre-cat only and not the rear is this  correct?  If so why would you want to use it? I would think you would want to either replace  both pre-cats or gut them to improve flow.  Someone please correct me if I am wrong, and if I am  right what DP will replace both pre-cats?
 
Thanks
 
Dan Labonte
 
>There are two problems with doing the rear cat:
1. It is a PITA -- a job best done when the turbos are replaced. 2. You cannot go back to stock.  If you save the old exhaust, you can put it back on there to pass emissions tests in an hour or  so.
 
>Actually, until you do lots of mods, the stock exhaust could stay on
>there. From the cat back, it flows pretty good.
>
>Yes and no <snip> On the other hand we had a 3000GT here with 500hp
>running the stock exhaust.
 
Rich/slow old poop
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:59:02 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
Well, since we are talking about exhaust here, I thought I would jump in with my 2 cents....
 
All of the statements below are from personal experience, research and R&D of my exhaust  systems.
 
True dual: Although the concept seems cool, it is a complete waste. My system came out about  45lbs lighter than stock but at a sacrifice of noise. A single shot exhaust will work just as  well and be lighter than a true dual, sound better and cost less.
 
Downpipes: Before deciding on any DP read about them online. www.3si.org is a good source for  that. Just about any down pipe out there will yield HP gains. The stock one is so poorly made,  that a monkey with a pencil could make a better one. The issues you want to look are fitment,  flexibility (see http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114328 insert link  as one line) and what problem areas they remove. The #1 problem area in the downpipe is the  combination of front and rear flows in the infamous "F-connection". All aftermarket pipes use a  Y to make that process better. The collectors they use are different, look at whom has what.  More room for flows to combine=more power. The #2 problem area is the 2" crush-bent 90degree  angle in the stock DP at the front bank. If that part is left in place, as required by some  pipes, you will be missing out on some more gains, although the F-connection is the biggest  thing...
 
Cat-back: The HP gains you will get from a cat-back are negligible. Far as flow goes, the stock  cat-back is actually pretty good. The only performance reasoning behind replacing the cat-back  is weight savings. The stock one is ULTRA heavy! Getting the lightest thing you can is the goal  there. The Borla that some seem to like is a nice looking and nice sounding system, but it has 2  major problems. #1 Its heavy, which defeats the whole purpose of getting a cat-back. (If you  getting it for looks more power to ya). #2 the connector flange has a 2.5" reducer ring on it  which does not need to be there. Although the rest of the pipe is 3" and they advertise it as a  3" exhaust, it is not. That ring is right at the flange that bolts to your test pipe/main cat  and bottlenecks the flow down to 2.5".
 
Test Pipe: High flow cat or test pipes can help too. You reduce backpressure in the system which  help spool times. Some other people whom make them claim 8-12HP gains. You also get rid of the  very heavy "brick" under your car. I would estimate that thing tips the scales at around 15lbs.
 
All in all power vs. weight is the game. Keep both in mind. The systems that I make from  downpipe to the tip are 48lbs and should yield at least 50+HP, which I think is pretty dang  good. Dyno numbers will be posted once I get my dang car running again :)
 
Ether way, those are my comments on the matter. By board rules I must disclose that my view may  be skewed because I make exhaust systems and sell them via my site.
 
Tyson V.
Ty-Speed Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:02:25 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
At 12:58 PM 1/27/03 -0700, Labonte, Dan wrote:
>I am interpreting this as the Stillen replaces the front pre-cat only
>and not the rear is this correct?  If so why would you want to use it?
 
It's easier
The rear cat has little effect on anything
It can be put back to stock easily if emission come along.
 
>DP will replace both pre-cats?
 
No such DP is available. In ALL cases, YOU gotta do the rear precat.
 
Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:26:37 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
Just to add a little :
 
> True dual: Although the concept seems cool, it is a complete waste.
 
I fully agree :-)
 
> Cat-back: The HP gains you will get from a cat-back are negligible.
> Far as flow goes, the stock cat-back is actually pretty good. The only
> performance reasoning behind replacing the cat-back is weight
> savings. The stock one is ULTRA heavy! Getting the lightest thing
> you can is the goal there. The Borla that some seem to like is a
> nice looking and nice sounding system, but it has 2 major
> problems. #1 Its heavy, which defeats the whole purpose of
> getting a cat-back. (If you getting it for looks more power to ya).
> #2 the connector flange has a 2.5" reducer ring on it which does not
> need to be there. Although the rest of the pipe is 3" and they
> advertise it as a 3" exhaust, it is not. That ring is right at the
> flange that bolts to your test pipe/main cat and bottlenecks the
> flow down to 2.5".
 
The Borla is lighter than the ATR dual and both HKS duals. Just look at my SUV car after I  installed the Borla. A single shot (ATR Single, HKS Drager, Apexi N1) of course is even lighter.  As the stock flow with 2 - 2 1/2" flow is already good a 3" Borla with flange (to make it fit  the stock cat !) and the additional baffles inside (to eliminate the droning) reduces it to  stock size. As 2 - 2 1/2" is already good the size is not a problem.
 
> Test Pipe: High flow cat or test pipes can help too. You reduce
> backpressure in the system which help spool times. Some other
> people whom make them claim 8-12HP gains. You also get rid of
> the very heavy "brick" under your
> car. I would estimate that thing tips the scales at around 15lbs.
 
The gain with the pre cats still in place is nada. Nothing seen on the dyno (96'3000GT European  model) It may be a different story with larger turbos and gutted precats of course.
 
Roger
93 & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:30:03 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
That is plain wrong. My pipe for one bolts up to the main cat. As does ATR, DNPerformance and a  few others. My pipe is the only one to my knowledge that gets rid of both the front precat and  bolts up to the main-cat.
 
Tyson V.
Ty-Speed Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:47:07 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
No DP on the market replaces the rear one.
 
The ATR does not bolt onto the main cat as it is made to line up with the ATR exhaust. If you  want to make it fit it must be cut and the flange must clamped on it.
 
Keeping the stock cat with an aftermarket is not a good idea as the most DP are 3" after the Y  but the cat is 2 - 2 1/2 " ... so the flange becomes a bottleneck. Use a high flow cat or  testpipe with the same diameter like the DP has at its end.
 
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 9:30 PM
 
> That is plain wrong. My pipe for one bolts up to the main cat. As does
> ATR, DNPerformance and a few others. My pipe is the only one to my
> knowledge that gets rid of both the front precat and bolts up to the
> main-cat.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:24:15 -0500
From: bob atkins <ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
With the exception of some of you who are not specific enough (try front pre-cat, rear pre-cat  and main cat to be specific) with your terminology - which leads to argument - I might add, It's  all good discussion with respect to Downpipes and main cats and precats
 
- - BUT -
 
what about the dreaded "check engine light".
 
I have a '99 with both DP O2 sensors.  If I gut or eliminate the pre-cats, won't I be saddled  with the damn "check engine light"???  I already have a gutted main cat.  That big empty chamber  (gutted main cat) can't be good for exhaust flow.  A DP that replaces the main cat with a  section of 3" pipe is what I'm after.  I just have the "check engine light" paranoia buyer's  hesitation blues.
 
Downpipe is next on my list of modifications (K&N intake and HKS Turbo exhaust are only current  "horsepower" mods.  Most others are handling except for the South Bend DXD clutch.  Only other  "maybe mod" in my future is a boost controller and the buyer's paranoia on that is SCCA  autocross class rules.  I'm already B Street Prepared and do not want to venture into Street  Modified.
 
How do I avoid the "check engine light"????
 
Thanks in advance
Bob Atkins - g8rbob
'99 VR-4
 
on 1/27/03 2:59 PM, Tyson Varosyan at tigran@tigran.com wrote:
 
> Well, since we are talking about exhaust here, I thought I would jump
> in with my 2 cents....
>
> All of the statements below are from personal experience, research and
> R&D of my exhaust systems.
 
. . .
 
> Downpipes: Before deciding on any DP read about them online.
> www.3si.org is a good source for that. Just about any down pipe out
> there will yield HP gains. The stock one is so poorly made, that a
> monkey with a pencil could make a better one. The issues you want to
> look are fitment, flexibility (see
> http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114328
> insert link as one line) and what problem areas they remove. The #1
> problem area in the downpipe is the combination of front and rear
> flows in the infamous "F-connection". All aftermarket pipes use a Y to
> make that process better. The collectors they use are different, look
> at whom has what. More room for flows to combine=more power. The #2
> problem area is the 2" crush-bent 90degree angle in the stock DP at
> the front bank. If that part is left in place, as required by some
> pipes, you will be missing out on some more gains, although the
> F-connection is the biggest thing...
 
. . .
 
> Test Pipe: High flow cat or test pipes can help too. You reduce
> backpressure in the system which help spool times. Some other people
> whom make them claim 8-12HP gains. You also get rid of the very heavy
> "brick" under your car. I would estimate that thing tips the scales at
> around 15lbs.
>
. . .
 
> Ether way, those are my comments on the matter. By board rules I must
> disclose that my view may be skewed because I make exhaust systems and
> sell them via my site.
>
> Tyson V.
> Ty-Speed Performance
> www.tyspeedperformance.com
 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:14:34 -0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
Try and find O2 simulators that actually work with our cars.  I tried and so did Trevor with no  luck...
 
Francis
'96 RT/TT
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: bob atkins [mailto:ratkins@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 5:24 PM
 
>How do I avoid the "check engine light"????
 
>Thanks in advance
>Bob Atkins - g8rbob
>'99 VR-4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 01:23:20 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
 
I could be wrong but the simulators that can be used at the Camaros (with dual cats) should work  on ours too.
 
If we know the difference the ECU is looking for we can create such a thing by our own. Is  anyone with a dual O2 sensor setup able to read the voltages at the same time, before and after  the precat ?
 
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 1:14 AM
 
> Try and find O2 simulators that actually work with our cars.  I tried
> and so did Trevor with no luck...
>
> Francis
> '96 RT/TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 19:35:44 -0500
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S: N/A SOHC 60k Service questions.
 
All,
 
Well, it's time for me to get my 60k service done on my 97 (SOHC) base 3000. Please bear with me  with all my questions.....  :)
 
Also, I usually compete in about 24 autocross events a year, and plan on an open track event or  2 this year.
 
I've noticed that the dealer charges WAY too much for all of the items they replace (go figure).
 
The dealer told me that I could bring in the parts/fluids they were going to replace if I  purchased them from somewhere else.
 
That brings me to my questions on what I want to take with me:
 
1.  Spark plugs.  What do you recommend I purchase?  My dealer quoted me $15 per plug!
 
2.  Coolant.  Your recommendation would be what?  I live in KY, and the winters are cold (7  degrees now), and the summers are hot and humid (96 degrees in August).  Should I just let  Mitsu. use what they have?
 
3.  Ignition.  What wires should I purchase?  Remember, this is a SOHC base, with a distributor.   All the website I've seen only carry wires for the DOHC engines.
 
4.  Ignition.  Are there alternative distributor cap and rotors available?
 
5.  Oil.  Of course I'll bring my own oil.  I currently use Valvoline full synthetic.  I was  thinking of changing to RedLine 10w30.  Any thoughts on that and where I can purchase it to get  here by next Tuesday?
 
6.  Oil filter.  Mitsubishi filter ok?
 
7.  Manual transmission.  I want to replace my transmission fluid.  I have the manual 5 speed  (keep in mind this is a non turbo).  I want to run RedLine in here too.  What do you recommend?   I seen sites that say you should use a 50/50 mixture of 2 types of fluid.  Does this only apply  to the VR4 transmission?  Regardless, what Redline fluid should I put in my tranny, or should I  just leave it alone?
 
8.  Brake fluid.  Should I go ahead and have them replace the brake fluid with high performance  fluid?
 
9.  Did I miss anything?
 
Sorry this is so long, I just want to be sure I make the right decisions.
 
Thanks for your help, and all thoughts are welcome.
 
Thanks,
Wayne Bonnett
www.kyscca.org (webmaster)
KYR/CKR ESP169
97 Mitsubishi 3000GT, see it at http://www.cardomain.com/id/169bsp
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 16:45:56 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
 Is it a waste because our engines are small ?
 Or is it the added weight ?
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 1:27 PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: New to modifications...
 

Just to add a little :
 
> True dual: Although the concept seems cool, it is a complete waste.
 
I fully agree :-)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:18:07 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Damaged - Enkie Wheel - VIA 18x9JJ 42
 
Here is a link to a photo album. Contains a few pics of my ride and one reasonably close shot of  a wheel.
 
http://www.amazon.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=51371117103.38493286703&n=1950170333
 
Interesting - I didn't know VIA was a standard. Now I'll have to go and look that one up. Thanks  Dan 97 VR4
 
>The VIA is a standard, not a model...  That stamping on the wheel
>indicates it passes specification.  Can you take a picture, I could
>prolly tell you which model it is.  Wheel repair is always a viable
>option, and is very reliable if done correctly.
>
>-Cody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:58:28 -0800
From: "Edward Vinces" <ed@compros.com>
Subject: Team3S: Identity kit for VR4?
 
I have been trying to order an "Identity Kit" for my VR4 from: http://www.chapor.com/vr4.html  Looks like a good product, but the ORDER link on their web page does not work. I e-mailed them  twice but have not received any answers. Has anybody ordered it? Is there another place to get  it? Thank you, Ed Vinces 91 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:24:10 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
 
This is a rumor as I have not tried it (and don't need to with a '92VR4) but putting a simple  radio shack resistor on the sender wire of the O2 sensor should do the trick. All the ECU is  looking for is a lower Oxygen reading on one of them, right? I dono, just am idea.
 
Tyson
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 4:23 PM
 
I could be wrong but the simulators that can be used at the Camaros (with dual cats) should work  on ours too.
 
If we know the difference the ECU is looking for we can create such a thing by our own. Is  anyone with a dual O2 sensor setup able to read the voltages at the same time, before and after  the precat ?
 
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 1:14 AM
 
> Try and find O2 simulators that actually work with our cars.  I tried
> and so did Trevor with no luck...
>
> Francis
> '96 RT/TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:27:23 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New to modifications...
 
True dual? A waste period. There is nothing that 2 pipes would do better than one slightly  larger one. And the weight will go up no matter how you look at it. Trust me man, the "True  Dual" was the first exhaust that I made and tried to market. Although power gains, sound and  looks were all pretty good, I decided to drop the project because there was nothing that system  did that could not be done with a good downpipe and single shot cat-back.
 
Tyson V.
Ty-Speed Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Floyd
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 3:46 PM
 
 Is it a waste because our engines are small ?
 Or is it the added weight ?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:38:58 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Identity kit for VR4?
 
Personally I'm not big on things like this but if you want one make a copy of the page and take  it to any sign shop that does vinyl. They'll do it for about a third of the price.
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Vinces" <ed@compros.com>
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 8:58 PM
 
> I have been trying to order an "Identity Kit" for my VR4 from:
> http://www.chapor.com/vr4.html Looks like a good product, but the
> ORDER link on their web page does not work. I e-mailed them twice but
> have not received any answers. Has anybody ordered it? Is there
> another place to get it? Thank you,
> Ed Vinces
> 91 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:47:09 -0800
From: "Edward Vinces" <ed@compros.com>
Subject: Team3S: Identity Kit
 
I bought my VR4 completely dechromed, no logos at all, I wanted to paste the VR4 logo only  somewhere in the back. Maybe I should buy the factory VR4 plate instead.
Ed
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 23:01:39 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Identity kit for VR4?
 
WOW that's pretty darn expensive.  I know a couple people I've met at car shows that will put  those peel off graphics on your whole car for under $100.  It also says on their main webpage  "COMING SOON FROM A NEW LOCATION" so maybe they're moving or something.
 
Also found this site...
http://www.decalkits.com/
 
But I think you could go to a vinyl printing shop and get it custom made for less.
 
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:08:30 -0600
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:  New to modifications...
 
Except that to many people like myself, the Mitsubishi and Dodge stylists, well look at many  cars...dual exhaust looks better.  They are symmetrical. They are in a way traditional to  performance cars.  When flames come out, they come out both sides :) and the "stereo" sound of  the exhaust when walking around the car running always sounded better to me than a single;  Supras never sounded as good as our cars, and this may be partly why.  On our cars, one is left  with a gaping empty spot where the other pipe USED to go, and that looks bad to me.   Asymmetrical.  I am willing to throw the few pounds of salt over my shoulder to the Gods of  Style to keep my car looking dual exhaust for all these reasons.  I think single loses more  pounds of LOOKS than it loses pounds of WEIGHT.  Who knows, someday those few pounds may mean  more to me; but my car is Ferrari beautiful to me, and not lightly do I mess with that.  Geez,  look at some of the horror-story body kits out there ;) I am sure :) that everybody castigating  dual exhaust has their: unused back seats; dumb minimally functional rear hatch window  blind/cover; all the plastic trim in back of the hatch area inside; useless purely cosmetic  plastic sideskirts running from behind the front wheels to in front of rear wheels (with fake  scoops fer gosh sake) etc...everybody has already thrown all THAT useless (except to style, and  weighing more) stuff out.
 
File this all under "losing useless weight even if it detracts from the looks, to ONE extent or  another; beauty is in the eye..." hehe.
 
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
> True dual? A waste period. There is nothing that 2 pipes would do
> better than one slightly larger one. And the weight will go up no
> matter how you look at it. Trust me man, the "True Dual" was the first
> exhaust that I made and tried to market. Although power gains, sound
> and looks were all pretty good, I decided to drop the project
> because there was nothing that system did that could not be
> done with a good downpipe and single shot cat-back.
 
>  Jim Floyd
> Is it a waste because our engines are small ?
> Or is it the added weight ?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 07:47:33 -0500
From: Lorne Silkes <vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Identity kit for VR4?
 
The graphics that Chapor sells are not cheap thin vinyl stickers. If I remember correctly, they  are made by the same company that makes the factory badges.  They are identical in quality and  style of the factory badges.
 
Lorne
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #65
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