Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, January 23 2003 Volume
02 : Number 061
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 17:48:59 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Where can I get an Idle Control Screw?
Hi guys,
I was driving to work when my car started acting like I blew the Y pipe
off. I pulled over and found my idle control screw was gone. A
Burger King napkin got me home.
Does anyone know the exact size of the screw or where I can get it?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 18:33:57 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
anti sway bar or strut bar
Andrei,
The two serve different purposes. The rear strut bar helps
stiffen up
the chassis, which will provide quicker turn-in and tighter
handling
while just slightly increasing ultimate grip (total Gs held in a
turn).
The rear sway bar will not likely effect much turn in, but
will add
considerably to ultimate grip as well as how the car handles on the
edge. A rear sway bar will also help eliminate some of the
understeering that the car inherently possesses.
So, I'd go with the sway bar (on an R/T install isn't that tough) if you
want more neutral handling in hard turns. It never hurts to add both,
IMO.
Good luck.
Damon
92 R/T TT w/ Front + Rear Strut bars, Front + Rear
sway bars, and TEIN
Flex Coilovers.
A. Kryjevski wrote:
> Hello:
>
> I am trying to improve cornering ability of my
1992 Stealth R/T. Tires
> have enough tread left, rear camber -0.5, front
close to 0.
>
> I am considering adding a rear strut bar (thinking
of Cusco) OR
> replacing the stock rear anti sway bar with a bigger one
(thinking of
> 3SX/Addco). Which of the two things above would be better
for that
> purpose?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Andrei
Kryjevski.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 18:35:54 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: anti sway bar or strut bar
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 18:47:18 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
anti sway bar or strut bar
Yes, it would improve cornering, but would add understeer up front
(though ultimate grip will be higher than stock). Adding a sway bar in
the rear allows the opposite wheel (in left turn, left rear) to make
better contact with the road enhancing neutrality in an understeering
car. Adding a larger front bar will add understeer.
DR-
Jim Floyd wrote:
> I think a larger anti-sway bar in front would improve
corning.
> Adding it to the back will reduce over steer.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 18:51:16 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
[Fwd: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth]
Forwarded for John Christian:
I can't seem to post to the 3S racer list anymore, but I do receive the
posts. I put up a page on my website about the AP
pads/rotors/wheels:
The AP is a fine system, but so is the BigRed -- IF you also use the
correct rotor!
The Big Reds were designed to be used with the Porsche 993
rotors
(993.351.045.10) which are two pieced, 32mm thick, 322mm dia,
directionally cooled with curved veins, and have cored cast holes.
Most of the 3Sers that have Big Reds just slapped them over the 2nd gen
rotors. If the stock rotor wasn't capable of dissipating enough heat
to keep the stock pads at a workable temperature, why should putting more
pad on the same rotor surface change heat dissipation? That setup
doesn't even take advantage of the whole pad surface. And some of them
complain about overheating etc.
Let's assume the Big red pad is square at 128x60= 7680
If it overhangs
(non contact) the stock rotor by 6 then you loose 11% of your braking
surface.
BTW the stock 1st & 2nd gen pads are 115x51=5865. 1st gen rotors
30x295; 2nd gen 30x313
I customized the Supra rotors to fit my TT. The Supra rotors are only
30mm (like the stock 2nd gen), but they are directionally cooled and are
larger diameter(322mm vs stock 313mm) and allow the whole Porsche pad to
contact the rotor surface.
Now if you can customize a thicker (32mm) rotor, like the Porsche rotor, to
fit the TT, I think you'll have a fantastic braking system.
Supra pad is 119x58=6902
I also have 91TT track car with the AP 6 piston setup & 17" wheels
that
I haven't driven yet )-:). The AP pads are longer, but not
as high.
They are 150x51=7650 that's not much different from the
Porsche pad. The HUGE difference is the size of the AP rotor. It's
32mm THICK and 328mm DIAMETER and directionally cooled. I'll bet $$$
that if you put that rotor with the Big Red, there won't be many
complaints. [The sweep of AP rotor is not tall enough for the whole
Porsche pad, but the stock Stealth pad would fit.]
BTW the Porsche 996Turbo rotor is 34x330 and would be more readily
available than the custom AP.
And yes, the Big Reds are more streetable than the AP. And yes the
Big red pads are more affordable & readily available in an abundant
selection of compositions than either our stock or AP. Porsche
dealers are everywhere in case you need a rebuild.
The stock 993 pads are only about $85 per set (that's 4pads). Good
track pads are about double that.
I've been looking for a used 996 or 993 rotor to use to prototype to
convert to my Stealth, but no luck so far -- guess the Porsche
rotors just don't wear out. (-;)
Be of good cheer,
John
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 21:57:18 -0500
From: "Robert Kight" <
S3_DOHC@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth Repairs
I have a 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T, and I have a few things I would like to
fix on it. I have a short in my left front speaker, and have traced
it to the connector that plugs into the amp. Is this a common
problem on these cars? Is there an easy way to fix it? I believe the short
is in the connector itself, but it may be in the wire. If it is in
the wire, I'm not sure which wire it is. If anyone knows how to fix
this, please let me know. I also need to replace the top half of the
dash, the defroster vent covers, the power antenna, and the seatbelt
retractors. Can I purchase these items at a dealership, or should I
try the internet? Also, is it possible to use the intake, turbos,
and intercooler off of a Stealth R/T TT on my R/T? Thank you for any
help!
Robert Kight
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 22:40:15 -0500
From: Mike Chapleski <
chaplesk@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Operation of Aeromotive FPR
To clarify my earlier post, I still have the stock fuel pump, but
also
the stock turbos and injectors. The A1000 is the same as the
A1000-6,
except for the different size openings.
I will reduce the
pressure based on whatever vacuum my car has at idle
(-17 psi I
think). This is the first time I heard that idle pressure
should be
less than 43 psi. Will make the corrections and report back.
Hopefully the reduction in pressure will eliminate the spikes up to 62
psi.
Thanks for the feedback,
Mike Chapleski
'95 Stealth RT TT
Miami, FL
" The fuel pressure is set to 43 psi at idle. So here is the
problem. As soon as the boost goes above 0 psi the fuel pressure
immediately jumps to 62 psi and stays there as long as boost is above 0
psi. Does anyone else with an aftermarket FPR and a fuel pressure gauge
experience a similar issue?"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 23:02:06 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti sway bar or strut bar
In light of this discussion and to celebrate the 3SX move to a new location
I am again offering my new front anti-sway bar for an AWD for sale.
It is the same one found on the 3SX site (
www.3sxperformance.com) under
Suspension and is an anti-sway bar, not a strut tower bar (some people
were confused). I had some offers before but if anyone is interested
please let me know privately off-list. It is still in bubble wrap
from exactly a year ago. Thanks.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
I forgot who asked about a cool can that used AN fittings but I
suggest
you make your own or convert a regular cool can. Summit
sells Russel
Aluminum fuel lines and AN conversion fittings, they
have a 3/8 line to 6AN
conversion and a 1/2 line to 8AN conversion
fitting. A cool can is
just a slightly insulated can with a coil of
fuel line in it. A Coleman
cooler would probably fit were the
battery goes;)
John Monnin
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 23:15:34 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 sensors in the downpipe
My '91 TT has an O2 sensor in the front and rear down-pipe. It was a
California born car.
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan
Sent: Wednesday,
January 22, 2003 1:43 PM
Hi all. Looking for some input from people whom know this on their cars.
How many O2 ports do various years of our car have in the downpipe? I know
first Gens have none. I have a CA model too and I don't have any. I know
94+ there is a bung in the front section of the pipe. Is there another
year that has a 2nd sensor in the downpipe? Someone told me that a 97 has 2
holes, one in the front one in the back.
I'm talking about TT models here only, not sure if NA are different.
Thanks,
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 21:40:46 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Operation of Aeromotive FPR
I'll be using the Aeromotive regulator also, my question is do I use
manifold pressure as a reference, or Y pipe pressure. Manifold pressure
results in lower than expected fuel pressure until the boost goes above
zero. What does the stock FPR use ??? I don't have my manual available
---- I just found a diagram showing the stock regulator using manifold pressure,
does that mean we use less than 43 psi at the regulator on all off boost
loads. Under normal
driving the manifold has a vacuum which should result in
lower fuel pressure
readings. Confusion reigns !!!
Jim Berry
======================================================
> >> As soon as the boost goes above 0 psi the fuel pressure
immediately
> >> jumps to 62 psi and stays there as long as boost
is above 0 psi.
>
> The Aeromotive web site
>
>
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products/view.phtml?f_cat=Regulators>
> Does not say explicitly that the A1000 will match boost pressure. They
> do say this for their A1000-6:
>
> "Fuel pressure will
rise on a 1:1 ratio when referencing boost."
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 21:46:05 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Operation of Aeromotive FPR
Maximum vacuum is about 14.7 psi --- normal atmospheric pressure at sea
level. I'd have to look at my boost gauge to see what it runs at Idle. The
gauge should be set to 43 psi at 0 boost --- disconnect the reference line
and set the pressure to 43.
Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mike Chapleski" <
chaplesk@bellsouth.net>
> To clarify my earlier post, I still have the stock fuel pump, but
also
> the stock turbos and injectors. The A1000 is the same as the
A1000-6,
> except for the different size openings.
> I will reduce
the pressure based on whatever vacuum my car has at idle
> (-17 psi I
think). This is the first time I heard that idle pressure
> should
be less than 43 psi. Will make the corrections and report back.
>
Hopefully the reduction in pressure will eliminate spikes to 62 psi.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 23:21:00 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Where can I get an Idle Control Screw?
Are you talking about the fat screw on the top of the throttle body?
Mitsu
doesn't list this for the 3000GT, but there is a listing for the
Eclipse.
You need the screw and the o-ring.
Good luck,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 23:48:44 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Where can I get an Idle Control Screw?
An old trick I learned from local members Paul and Bob was to cut a
small
section (5mm) of rubber vacuum hose and put it over the idle screw. The
hose
should fit tightly into the hole and prevents the screw from coming lose
and
falling out, which happens from time to time on our cars. I did it,
worked
like a dream.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 10:40:43 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Operation of Aeromotive FPR
>> .. do I use manifold pressure as a reference, or Y pipe
pressure.
Always use manifold pressure, just like the stock FPR. The hose is attached
to the rear side of the plenum near the TB (which you know of course, I am
just trying to be complete).
>> .. does that mean we use less than 43 psi at the regulator
on
>> all off boost loads.
The factory setup routes the hose from the plenum through the fuel pressure
solenoid. This solenoid is operated by the ECU. It creates additional vacuum
in the FPR hose to reduce fuel pressure (and fuel flow slightly) during
idle,
cruise, and low load acceleration. The ECU lets the full plenum
pressure
reach the FPR during boost so that the FPR can compensate
accurately. During
closed loop operation (during the "low fuel pressure"
situations), closed
loop control maintains A/F so exact fuel pressure is not
that important and
lots of fuel are not needed.
Some owners have removed this fp solenoid. Others, like myself, are using a
re-wired Supra pump and have overwhelmed the stock FPR. In either case, idle
fuel pressure is above the factory-specified ~34 psi. This does not seem to
be a big deal. I use Denso 550 cc/min injectors with an ARC2 and idle fp is
near 50 psi. Both A/F meters show that the O2 sensors are cycling,
indicating
near 14.7 A/F.
I want to return control of fp back to the FPR. The higher-capacity
Aeromotive (or SX) FPR might achieve this. However, the real problem may be
with the "small" size of the return line. I will try the A1000-6 first and
then replace the return line if needed.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 03:42:42 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: [Fwd: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth]
John,
Geoff Mohler sells a custom rotor for the Big Reds.
Thickness:
1.25"
Outside Diameter: 12.75"
Flange Diameter: 6.375"
Eye Diameter:
7.2"
Size of Holes: .25"
Number of Holes: 12
Bolt Circle: 7"
I've run them for years and they work just fine.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:07:26 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cool can
Thanks John, I had thought about the cooler where the stock battery sits
but
I think tech inspectors would have something to say about it......
Thanks for the link however I will have to really search through
summits
website tonight when I get home from work.
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 "son why do you have a beach cooler under your
hood?"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 06:45:37 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Where can I get an Idle Control Screw?
> Are you talking about the fat screw on the top of the throttle
body?
Mitsu
> doesn't list this for the 3000GT, but there is a listing
for the Eclipse.
> You need the screw and the o-ring.
That is exactly what I'm looking for. No auto parts stores that I
called
had it and so far the dealerships that I've called keep trying to sell
me a
ISC. I guess I'll have to mention the Eclipse. Thanks.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 10:36:11 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: [Fwd: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for
3000GT/Stealth]
Jim:
Didn't that rotor require a slightly special caliper bracket you
outsources
separately?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 17:55:15 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Team3S Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
The big reds are just the 996 Porsche calipers and yes you need a fully
custom bracket (it was home made, did not fit, but gave me the sizes I
needed to let one make them !!) as well as the stainless steel brake lines.
You can get a larger rotor and change the bracket to make them fit but the
thickness of the rotor must stay the same.
I do have the willwood 6-pots at home with everything and the rotors is
thicker. Also the bracket is made much nicer.
Roger
93' & 96'3000GT TT
At 10:36 23.01.2003 -0600, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Jim:
>
>Didn't that rotor require a slightly special
caliper bracket you outsources
>separately?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:30:50 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: [Fwd: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes
for3000GT/Stealth]
John,
I didn't do the installation, but everything needed came with the
rotors.
The only special bracket I remember came with the Big
Reds.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
Sent: Thursday,
January 23, 2003 9:36 AM
Jim:
Didn't that rotor require a slightly special caliper bracket you
outsources
separately?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 11:41:22 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: [Fwd: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes
for3000GT/Stealth]
But what I'm saying, is that the slightly larger 2pc rotor I have for
your
kit..was a 1-off bracket that Brad supplied. Not the "normal"
adaptor
everyone else has.
On Thu, 23 Jan 2003, Jim Floyd wrote:
> John,
>
> I didn't do the installation, but
everything needed came with the rotors.
> The only special bracket I
remember came with the Big Reds.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:32:24 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Operation of Aeromotive FPR
Jeff -
I'm running the Supra pump, as well as stock fuel lines from the fuel pump
to the engine bay. My stock FPR was overwhelmed by the Supra pump at
idle, which was one of the big factors in my decision to do a custom fuel
system. With the Aeromotive FPR and stock return line fuel pressure
at idle has been normal.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 20:59:49 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Operation of Aeromotive FPR
I'm running the supra pump too and never saw a problem with it
overwhelming
the stock FPR with the resistor still slowing the pump down
!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:01:15 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Team3S Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for
3000GT/Stealth
Yes, I had one but ask me again after 4th of April as then I have time
to
make it available in a good shape again.
Roger
93' & 96'3000T TT
> Do we have a comparison table up anywhere?
> I recall that Roger
had one a few years ago, but I've lost the link to it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 15:10:46 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Team3S Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/ Stealth
Jeff L has one on his website with all of the rotor dimensions,
caliper
specs, etc.... Just look under the garage section and upgrades
(top left of
the page IIRC)
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 15:38:27 -0500
From: Aamer Abbas <
aamer@aamerabbas.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need Kumho Ecsta Tyres
Hello everyone. I have had Kumho Ecsta Supra tyres on my car for a while
now; but they are starting to wear thin.
I have been quite happy with these tyres and I would like to buy them
again.
The problem is that last time I ordered these tyres, it was through one of
my friends who works at an auto shop and could get me a discount.
Since
I no longer live near this friend, I was hoping someone on this list could give
me a tip about the cheapest place to get these tyres.
I still have the stock 16 inch wheels that came with the car and my current
tyre size is 245/50.
Thanks for your help.
- --
Aamer Abbas
Black 1994 3000GT (DOHC/Naturally Aspirated)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:15:55 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Operation of Aeromotive FPR
>> I'm running the supra pump too and never saw a problem
with
>> it overwhelming the stock FPR with the resistor still
slowing
>> the pump down !
Are you measuring fuel pressure? If so, where at, and what are the values?
If
not, how do you know if the pressure is correct or not?
Both of my O2 sensors cycle at idle with 50 psi line pressure. So if it
wasn't
for the fuel pressure gauge, I would not know anything was wrong
(well, at
least not factory spec).
=================================================
I, and others, did not have a fuel pressure "problem" using the Supra pump
with factory wiring and resistor. The problem only started after re-wiring
the
pump "directly" to the battery. But then, I was only getting a bit over
10
volts to the pump at WOT before I re-wired! Now I get full system voltage
minus about 0.13 volts (or 13.5 volts or more all the time). :)
Erik Gross provides a nice compromise fuel pump re-wire (see his web site)
that keeps the factory resistor in place (for low-voltage supply to the pump
at idle and cruise) and provides higher-than-stock voltage (but not the
maximum possible) during boost. His mod is very nice and I think reduces or
eliminates the "too much fuel flowing" problem at idle/cruise (and so
doesn't
require a FPR upgrade). If a person does not need the very maximum
voltage to
the pump, then Erik's is the method of choice.
================================================
I like the Aeromotive A1000-6 because it will solve the problem (thanks for
the feedback Brian) but also because it looks nice and the top is red. :)
The A1000-6 is designed with two inputs for those that want parallel supply
through the rails. However, I'll just be capping one of those inputs for
now.
I will keep the stock FP solenoid to see how it works with the A1000-6.
I'm
not sure if I'll move my fp sensor to the A1000-6 (it has a 1/8" NPT
fitting
for this) or just attach a gauge directly to set fp. It will be
interesting to
see the difference in pressure between the fuel filter and
the FPR.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 17:10:49 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti sway bar or strut bar
Of course, the first thing you must address is stiffer and
lower
springs.
Coilovers if there's anyway you can afford it.
Without those, you will see little real improvement from sway bars.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: A. Kryjevski
[mailto:abk4@u.washington.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 5:43
PM
Hello:
I am trying to improve cornering ability of my 1992 Stealth R/T.
Tires
have enough tread left, rear camber -0.5, front close to 0.
I am considering adding a rear strut bar (thinking of Cusco)
OR
replacing the stock rear anti sway bar with a bigger
one (thinking of
3SX/Addco). Which of the two things above would
be better for that
purpose?
Thank you.
Andrei Kryjevski.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 17:19:21 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Operation of Aeromotive FPR
Whatcha smoking Jim! You're really asking this?
On the street you definitely want manifold.
However, at the track, it
might be good to go with the Y-pipe, or
earlier.
This would anticipate just a smidgeon on spoolup, and perhaps add just
a
drop of cooling richness at coastdown. Good idea!
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 9:41 PM
I'll be using the Aeromotive regulator also, my question is do I
use
manifold pressure as a reference, or Y pipe pressure. Manifold
pressure
results in lower than expected fuel pressure until the
boost goes above zero.
What does the stock FPR use ??? I don't
have my manual available ---- I just
found a diagram showing
the stock regulator using manifold pressure, does
that mean we
use less than 43 psi at the regulator on all off boost
loads.
Under normal driving the manifold has a vacuum which should
result
in lower fuel pressure readings. Confusion reigns !!!
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 14:31:29 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: anti sway bar or strut bar
Kurt,
I have installed strut and anti-sway bars front and back while
using
the stock ECS.
The improvement was dramatic.
Springs
would probably be another step in cornering improvement, but
it's not the
only way to go.
You can drive my car at the National Gathering and see
what I mean.
No flame, just a different opinion.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 16:08:12 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AVC-R question
What exactly does the "INJ" monitor? The figure that is displayed is
a
percentage and I haven't seen it go below 70% whether at idle or wot and
1
bar of boost. What gives?
Damien - '93 VR-4 Sorrento Red
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 17:27:31 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Vacuum Tubing/Hose to use
What is the prevailing size vacuum tubing most owners are using for
running
boost controllers, gauges, TT's, etc.? I've been thinking about
changing
mine out, wondering if it's not correct. I've currently got
1/8 id tubing
in, but remember putting 3/16 in my Talon. Is there a
"best practice" for
tubing and fittings among the list members?
TIA,
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 57k miles, Open Air Intake, Blitz
DSBC, Blitz DATT
Wichita, KS
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 15:35:28 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Operation of Aeromotive FPR
I don't think you want to use y-pipe pressure for the fuel pressure
regulator. At wide open throttle the pressure difference would be
negligible. But during normal cruising, the manifold sees high
vacuum, while the y-pipe would probably not see atmosphere, or a small amount
of boost. The end result would be much higher than expected fuel
pressure at cruise.
I'd really recommend manifold for the fuel pressure vacuum reference.
- - Brian
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 18:29:59 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Blowing ECI fuse
'93 non-turbo, blows the ECI fuse (under the hood)... Haven't looked
at
the wiring yet, but it appears to control the ignition module...
Any
time you turn the key to the "on" position, it shorts and blows
the
fuse... If you unhook the ECU, it does not do this, however, it
could
still be something the ECU is controlling or turning on...
Any ideas, or similar experiences???
- -Cody
------------------------------
Toyota places the O2 heater on the same fuse..perhaps Mitsu does as
well?
Mine rubbed and shorted out.
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 20:52:38 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
CHROME on a 97 SL RIM
The chrome on my 97 SL wheels have been peeling in the back for quite some
time. It has gotten SO BAD that my wheels were thrown off balance due to the
peeling. That is to say that part of the inside of the wheel has all the
chrome, some has none, thus the minor vibration in my wheel. In order to
keep
them balanced I had to chip at the chrome.
Anyway, I think this is ridiculous. The car was not cheap( I bet you guys
already knew that.) and this shouldn't be happening. I didn't even dare to
go
to the Mitsu dealer because I -A don't want to pay the price, and -B will
just
get a set of aftermarket rims anyway. But I wanted to know if anyone
else has
had this problem, be it an SL or VR-4. My friend with a
stealth had the same
problems on his car, so this should apply to the
sistership as well.
I know there is a list member from Texas that has a car identical to mine,
did this happen to you as well?
FLASH-these are your track rims, do you notice anything peeling in the
back?
I plan to call mitsu and see what I can do. I take care of the rims, just
like the rest of the car, but I am not a happy camper right now. All because
Mitsubishi decided to be cheap with there chroming process.
_mike
97 SL
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#61
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