Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, January 18 2003 Volume
02 : Number 056
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I just talked to the dealer about ordering a new ABS relay, because my ABS
pump runs continuously, even with the key shut off, so the culprit is
probably a relay of some kind. I tried just about every other solution
offered here a few weeks back, so it's boiling down to the relay.
He could only find one relay listed...the one that mounts on the pump and
costs $300.
I thought there was another one that sits near the right front
intercooler. That should be the one that got damaged, because I run
without the front inner fender splash shield, and it probably got wet.
I have to pull the circuit breaker (the big one in the lower left of the
big fuse box) to shut the pump off. I like having ABS on track so I want
to fix this, but I just want to make sure I am replacing the right
part.
Is there a diagnostic that would identify the culprit?
Can that $300
relay be repaired by a tech?
Advice, anyone?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 10:10:45 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel/Air Readings
Doug - What are you using to get these readings? They're not
unreasonable, but they're also not what I'd expect from a stock ECU.
Can you give a few more details about your setup?
> I've been paying more attention to my F/A readings lately and
>
would like to know what other people are getting for readings
> on their
cars and what is stock or normal readings. I'm doing
> a little more
fine tuning with my SAFC and will be using this
> information to dial it
in.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 13:58:37 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ABS relay: wherezit?
Rich, what year/model? I found three relays that apply to the
3000GT.
They seem to be different depending on the year. One is about
$4, the
other is around $151, and the third is around $54.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 13:33:34 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ABS relay: wherezit?
Disclaimer....First post/reply to this list!
For what it's worth, this was found to be a problem on the DSM's
(T/E/L's)
as well, and it happened to me with my '93 Talon TSi AWD. I
eventually was
told to and did replace the battery itself. It wasn't
holding enough charge
in a 12v environment to switch the unit off. At
least that was the reason I
was given. I had also replaced a $4 relay
in the main fuse box in the
engine compartment, that had caused some items
(radio, etc.) in my Talon to
stay on regardless of whether or not the car was
in ACC or Run position
(which may have been what drained the battery!).
Anyway, again, take it for what it's worth. I was told by a couple
of
different shops/stores that my battery was fine during their charge
testing,
but eventually found that one shop was able to tell me that it
definitely
was not quite up to par on average throughout the testing, and
especially
when coming to a stop and then shutting off. Again, I'm not
sure that this
is truth or the case, but it made sense at the time, and
replacing the
battery fixed my ABS running on it's own after shutting off
problem.
Patrick Purviance
- -94 R/T TT 57k miles, Open Air Intake, Blitz DSBC,
Blitz DATT
------------------------------
Okay, forget about the BMW...The possible buyer is very interested
but
claims that my 3000GT, with it's mods, should only have 290-310 HP
at
the wheels. Personally, I think there's more there but I'll let
people
with better expertise decide an approx. wheel horsepower. Here's
the
mods and thanks.
- -Brad
1997 3000GT VR-4 w/K&N, Blitz Supersound BOV, DN
Performance
Intercooler pipes, Magnecor KV85 Wires, Apex'i AVC-R Boost
Controller,
BOZZ Speed Dual Cannon exhaust (true dual, no
cats).
1991 Galant VR-4
------------------------------
what psi boost have you set?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 14:46:27 -0500
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Approx. HP
You may have close to 400 hp at the crank, but I would guess more
like
340 to the ground
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:53:02 -0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Approx. HP
Whoops, forgot about that. Boost is at 1 bar (14 something PSI)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 12:04:42 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
driveline play - still there
I took my car to the shop today and they put it up on the lift.
We've
confirmed that the play is from lash in the rear differential gears.
The way
the mechanic checked was by turning one rear wheel while the car was
still.
We listened to where that clunk/click came from. Sure enough, it was
the
rear diff. He told me that I'll be okay for quite awhile since the play
is
not that bad yet. He said if it starts howling, that's when I should
worry
about it. So the verdict is.... the Tahoe trip is still on.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
My best recollection from reading people's dyno results is that for 1 bar
(14.7 psi) boost and a K&N intake you should be making about 405
hp. I don't recall much hp increase for the intercooler pipes or
modified exhaust, except that you say you have no cats (no pre-cats or no
main cat?). In any event, I think the prospective buyer's estimate at the
ground seems low. Joshua's guess of 340 to the ground sounds closer
to what I've been reading here over the years.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 13:16:35 -0700
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Approx. HP
I'd say ~330 AWHP. Generous driveline loss of 25% = 75hp. 400
crank -
75 = 325. True duals might give a little more hp.
Just my .02
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 12:59:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rebuilding DOHC; What to add to increase HP
I am going to be rebuilding a '92 DOHC engine. I
would like some
help, besides pistons, what internals
should I get to increase my HP. I
would like to shoot
for 285-300 hp. How much of a difference do
bigger
injectors make? Alright, I'm counting on you
guys/girls I
need your help.
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 14:11:06 -0700
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rebuilding DOHC; What to add to increase HP
Well assuming that you have an NA, I would say higher compression
ratio, bored out block, port & polished heads, extrude honed manifold,
and cams and you should have a nice setup. Put bigger valves if you
want
to spend the money. Bigger injectors do nothing without more
air...get
a set of 360cc or 450cc and an AFC. Plan early on in your
rebuild if
you want to go with Nitrous to get more power.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Date:
Friday, January 17, 2003 1:59 pm
> I am going to be rebuilding a '92 DOHC engine. I
> would
like some help, besides pistons, what internals
> should I get to increase
my HP. I would like to shoot
> for 285-300 hp. How much of a
difference do bigger
> injectors make? Alright, I'm counting on
you
> guys/girls I need your help.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 16:47:56 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Leaking Transmission
I'm now two months into a 1997 VR4 and learning my way around it.
I
took it in for the transfer case recall and found the transfer case
was
in great shape, but the tech pointed out a small leak from
the
transmission. It isn't enough to put a spot on the ground anywhere
I
leave the car (even for extended periods), but fluid shows up on
the
bottom of the car blown back. The transmission feels fine right
now
aside from being heavier early in the morning when its cold.
Searching through the various archives, it looks like Getrag used
"seal
in a tube" rather than something more durable when they designed
the
transmission and this is likely what is failing. I am at 52,000
miles
and was planning to have them drain/fill the transmission at the
60K
service. How much should I be freaking out about this? Should
I be
finding someone to crack the transmission to check/reseal it ASAP?
Are
Getrag 6-speeds disposable and I should anticipate buying a new
one
every 50,000 miles whether I need to or not?
I have no mods at this point, and am wondering if I should be
holding
back on adding any to save up for a new transmission. Finding
pictures
of square bearings in the transfer case as I look around about
this
isn't helping my comfort level either.
Ken
'97 Green VR4
------------------------------
At 04:47 PM 1/17/03 -0500, Ken Lovell wrote:
>I'm now two months into
a 1997 VR4 and learning my way around it. I
>took it in for the
transfer case recall and found the transfer case was
>in great shape, but
the tech pointed out a small leak from the
>transmission. It isn't
enough to put a spot on the ground anywhere I
>leave the car (even for
extended periods), but fluid shows up on the
>bottom of the car blown
back. The transmission feels fine right now
>aside from being
heavier early in the morning when its cold.
Mine does exactly the same thing. It's OK around town, but when I take it
on the track it really blows out the fluid. So much, it's embarrassing. It
was a brand new tranny replacement at 65,000 miles, and it started leaking
after my first road course event.
My dealer says it's leaking at the case seal, so the tranny should come out
of there and be took apart and re-sealed and gasketed. We are discussing
all this with the zone rep, who has been nonresponsive so far.
> Should I be finding someone to crack the transmission to
>
check/reseal it ASAP?
> Nah, not if you don't race it, and it's not dripping on
> the
ground. Besides, the problem will take care of
> itself at 65,000 miles or
so (see below).
> Are Getrag 6-speeds disposable and I should anticipate buying
>
a new one every 50,000 miles whether I need to or not?
Absolutely not! Where did you get that outrageous idea? Shame on you!
Our Getrags are good for 65,000 miles before the 1-2 synchro needs
to be replaced. How dare you make fun of our cars. 50,000 miles,
indeed.*
Hope you bought a warranty with your car. If not, go back to the dealer and
get one. Just think: $3,500 for a tranny at 65,000 miles, $800 for a water
pump at 80,000 miles, and so on. Everybody who bought a warranty around
here has paid it back several times over. I know I did.
Rich/slow old poop
*just kidding. Our trannies do seem to go out at about 65,000 miles,
though.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:17:47 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Help Cold=starts/runs great, Warm=intermittent starts/dies
Rick,
I believe it's your thermostat. I think some expert on the list came
to
this conclusion 1-2 yrs ago. Someone can correct me if my memory
is
wrong. Regardless, it's only a $10-20 part. Both my 95 VR4 and
my
brother's 94 TT have had this problem 2 or 3 times since we owned
the
cars. The car runs fine 99.99% of the time. Sometimes, I go
to the
store, and I shut off the car. 20 min later (in summer), when I
try to
restart the car, it will want to die, unless I press the
accelerator,
and then it will recover slowly (4-5 sec). After the RPM
climbs to a
safe zone, the car will run fine.
We never changed the thermostats because this minor problem did
not
bother us. If it will happen more often, we will replace
them.
- -MIKE-
95 VR4
From: Rick Pierce [mailto:piercera@pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday,
January 15, 2003 7:17 AM
Hi Everyone,
This one is real puzzling. Here is the detailed version:
92 Dodge
TT
Old: always started and ran normally cold, warm, and hot
Now: When Cold it starts and runs like normal, but when warm (after
some
amount of time?) when I shut it off and go to restart it, sometimes
it
fires and then dies.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 14:23:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Les Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
HKS EVC IV Boost Controller
Does anyone out there know how to successfully reset a
HKS EVC IV Boost
Controller? I installed one in my
91TT. I was doing my 2 initial full
throttle runs for
calibration and had to abort the 2nd run at about
60
mph. I attempted to reset by following the
accompanying instruction
manual with no success. I've
tried unhooking the battery and leaving unhooked
for 2
weeks. The damned thing is tenacious! It won't reset.
Anyone have
any handy tricks to reset this unit?
Thanks, Les
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 14:36:31 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Help Cold=starts/runs great, Warm=intermittent starts/dies
I've had this exact same problem in the past. Pulled the IAC,
cleaned
it, problem gone.
- -James
95 Green VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu [mailto:mraicu@wayne.edu]
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 2:18 PM
Rick,
I believe it's your thermostat. I think some expert on the list came
to
this conclusion 1-2 yrs ago. Someone can correct me if my memory
is
wrong. Regardless, it's only a $10-20 part. Both my 95 VR4 and
my
brother's 94 TT have had this problem 2 or 3 times since we owned
the
cars. The car runs fine 99.99% of the time. Sometimes, I go
to the
store, and I shut off the car. 20 min later (in summer), when I
try to
restart the car, it will want to die, unless I press the
accelerator,
and then it will recover slowly (4-5 sec). After the RPM
climbs to a
safe zone, the car will run fine.
We never changed the thermostats because this minor problem did
not
bother us. If it will happen more often, we will replace
them.
- -MIKE-
95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 22:55:29 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS EVC IV Boost Controller
>> Anyone have any handy tricks to reset this unit?
Did you follow the "reset" procedure as given in the EVC IV instructions?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 14:51:33 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leaking Transmission
> *just kidding. Our trannies do seem to go out at
> about 65,000
miles, though.
C'mon now, be reasonable with the blanket statements.
Yeah, some people have transaxle issues around the 60K mark, but some
people
have problems earlier. And some people have 150,000+ miles on
their
original transaxle.
As for my personal example, I have almost 65,000mi on my VR-4 and
the
synchros are in great shape, driveline play/lash is minimal, and the
car
drives like a champ. The transfer case is bone dry and the tranny
casing
has no appreciable leaks. I also have several friends in the area
with
similar mileage and no appreciable transaxle problems.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with alive-and-well tranny
Note(just in case): nothing intended to be personal... I just don't
want
new owners to have it in their heads that it's almost a sure thing for
the
transaxle to die in some manner by 60ish thousand miles.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:12:56 -0500
From: "Trevor Paciotti" <
sam_or_i@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rebuilding DOHC; What to add to increase HP
Andrew,
I would consider fitting the car with an underdrive
pulley, that should
give you a some extra horses to the wheels. And, if
you've done other mods
to the internals, I would suggest better camshafts.
Hope that this helps
First Post,
Trevor
91 R/T TT
I am going to be rebuilding a '92 DOHC engine. I
would like some
help, besides pistons, what internals
should I get to increase my HP. I
would like to shoot
for 285-300 hp. How much of a difference do
bigger
injectors make? Alright, I'm counting on you
guys/girls I
need your help.
------------------------------
At 02:51 PM 1/17/03 -0800, Gross, Erik wrote:
>> *just kidding.
Our trannies do seem to go out at
>> about 65,000 miles,
though.
>
>C'mon now, be reasonable with the blanket
statements.
>Yeah, some people have transaxle issues around the 60K
mark,
>but some people >have problems earlier. And some
people
>have 150,000+ miles on their original transaxle.
A couple of years ago, somebody on this list or 3Si or the blue light list
or somewhere ran a survey of folks that had tranny problems. 65,000 was
the magic number -- the average where most synchro problems occurred with
6 speed Getrags. I bet they are in the archives somewhere.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:50:06 -0600
From: "rsaylors" <
rsaylors@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Misery
I recently bought a 91 Stealth for my daughter. It has the 5 speed
and
constantly pops out of 1st gear. I took it to the Mitsubishi dealer
and was
told it needs a new synchronizer. I took it to a respected
local mechanic
who told me the same thing. He suggested buying a
rebuilt transmission as
he does not do rebuilding. My question is,
where can you find a good,
reliable source for transmissions for this
car.
Thanks,
Rick
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 19:38:17 -0500
From: joe p <
jpriceiv@comcast.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: strange thumping
Never any engine misses under my watch.......
I had a friend drive it that knows a lot more than I do and he agrees
with
the CV joint theory.
Took it to the mechanic today and I had him drive it around the block a
few
times. He couldn't tell me exactly what it was, said he had to put it on
the
lift and check it out. I am taking it back on Monday. When he's done with
it
I will report back with the conclusion.
Joe P4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Rod2414738@aol.com
[mailto:Rod2414738@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 9:42 PM
Have you ever experienced an engine miss caused by a bad plug wire?
Your
symptoms still sound like they might be caused by an engine miss just
from
the description. Especially since they do it in all gears at
different
speeds and only under load, not coasting. The symptoms are
also similar to
a bad inner CV joint, but that would be mostly under
acceleration from a
stop. Outer CV joints cause vibration on turns,
inner CV joints under
acceleration.
- -Rod
'93 Stealth R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:23:25 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel/Air Readings
> Doug - What are you using to get these readings? They're
not
unreasonable, but they're also not what I'd expect from a stock
ECU. Can
you give a few more details about your setup?
I was hoping that someone with a A/F gauge on a all stock car could give
me
some readings or for someone to give me what "ideal" readings should
be.
Being a lazy typist, I didn't want to have to list my mods. I guess
I'll
list the important mods so that everyone knows what I have. I am
using the
reading from my Apex'i Turbo Timer.
450 DSM injectors (sonically cleaned, back flowed and tested), AVCR set at
9
psi, SAFC, Apex'i Turbo Timer, DN Perf. Downpipe, Custom 3" single
exhaust,
High Flow Cat, K&N open element filter, Walboro Fuel Pump, Fuel
Relay
Rewire, Direct Hits Ignition Capacitors, Aquatune full time water
injection.
My current SAFC settings is -32% across the board. I found I was
running
too rich at anything under -30%, causing hesitation at WOT.
I guess I will increase my low throttle to -28% or so and see what that
does
to my partial throttle A/F readings.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:01:50 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Transmission Misery
Kormex in San Diego area does a great job and has rebuilt units --- I don't
have
their number but a search should turn one up.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
> I recently bought a 91 Stealth for my daughter. It has the 5
speed and
> constantly pops out of 1st gear. I took it to the
Mitsubishi dealer and was
> told it needs a new synchronizer. I took
it to a respected local mechanic
> who told me the same thing. He
suggested buying a rebuilt transmission as
> he does not do
rebuilding. My question is, where can you find a good,
> reliable
source for transmissions for this car.
>
> Thanks,
>
Rick
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 23:50:11 -0500
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Original Vibration under load answers(little long)..
Team3S,
I was going to wait until I got my car back and spoke with the
tech
before I posted Satan's answer to my Vibration issue.. Since I
haven't seen
the tech and don't have an invoice yet I cant be very specific,
but since
this raised a few eyebrows I wanted to respond..
Satan's service underwriter stated on the phone that all of
the following
were bad..
1) CV Axle
2) Bushings rear eng block
3) Front bearings
The explanation offered by the service underwriter was that the CV
axle
was actually sliding in and out causing the severe vibration.. If this
is
true, I'm very happy that it didn't manage to hit any other
major
components. Take in to consideration that I have been talking to
the
service underwriter here and these guys aren't always very bright.
My thinking is that the bushings associated with the cv axle went
bad and
allowed the cv axle to move in all kinds of ways it shouldn't.
The bearings
probably already needed help, but the CV issue just finished the
job
with that nasty vibration.
Before the couple of other guys that had the same issue panic, keep
in
mind that the vibration I had was bad enough to shake the whole front
end,
and created the feeling of driving with flat tires on a 18 wheeler
damaged
road.
Before anyone asks, No I didn't hit any potholes and I'm pretty sure
that
my driving in no way caused this problem.
I am the second owner of
this car so who knows, but I was told that these
kind of things can happen
with normal wear and tear of 96,000 miles on a
car.
I'm sure Satan will rape me in labor costs, but that's just what it
costs
to own one of these beasts. I've had a 3S since I was 18 yrs old
and I love
these cars. I hope I have one till they pry my license from
my arthritic
fingers. Reading all the recent threads just reinforces what it
means to own
a 3S. Sometimes it requires time and sometimes money, but
more than likely
it takes a lot of both. I don't pretend to make a lot
of money but I do
what it takes to own and maintain my 3S.
Proud 3S owner and Team 3S member.
Scott
94 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 11:33:28 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaking Transmission
It is variable ........ but three VR4s later, and two of the three had
synchro problems between 60-80K. My latest one ...... a 97 ..... at
45K
when cold would grind into 2nd and 3rd. At 56K, it is OK when
warmed
up, but I can see down the road another Kormex in my future.
Opinion: it is ridiculous to think what they charged for the car, what
it is suppose to be, and the poor design of such a critical component.
THAT should be a source for a recall!
Dennis -==- Philly
Gross, Erik wrote:
>>*just kidding. Our trannies do seem to go out at
>>about
65,000 miles, though.
>
>C'mon now, be reasonable with the blanket
statements.
>
>Yeah, some people have transaxle issues around the
60K mark, but some people
>have problems earlier. And some people
have 150,000+ miles on their
>original transaxle.
>
>As
for my personal example, I have almost 65,000mi on my VR-4 and
the
>synchros are in great shape, driveline play/lash is minimal, and the
car
>drives like a champ. The transfer case is bone dry and the
tranny casing
>has no appreciable leaks. I also have several friends in
the area with
>similar mileage and no appreciable transaxle
problems.
>
>--Erik
>'95 VR-4 with alive-and-well tranny
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 08:52:30 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Leaking Transmission
The survey on transmission failures had about 10 respondents and about
4
had failures at around the 60K mark --- even government statisticians
require
a larger data base than that. The actual numbers are from 20K to
about 170K
with abuse levels ranging from none to major. Of interest is the
fact that
some babied transmissions die at 30K while some with hard use seem
to last
forever ?!?!?!? At least repair parts are now available.
Recalls are reserved for failures that can cause death or at least make
the
national news --- things that just piss you off require that you live
with it, fix it
yourself, or have a warranty.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Dennis Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
> It is variable ........ but three VR4s later, and two of the three had
> synchro problems between 60-80K. My latest one ...... a 97 .....
at 45K
> when cold would grind into 2nd and 3rd. At 56K, it is OK
when warmed
> up, but I can see down the road another Kormex in my
future.
>
> Opinion: it is ridiculous to think what they
charged for the car, what
> it is suppose to be, and the poor design of
such a critical component.
> THAT should be a source for a
recall!
>
> Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
At 11:33 AM 1/18/03 -0500, Dennis Ninneman wrote:
>Three VR4s later,
and two of the three had
>synchro problems between 60-80K. <snip>
Opinion: it is ridiculous to think what they charged for the car, what it
is suppose to be, and the poor design of such a critical component. THAT
should be a source for a recall!
Here's the REALLY weird part...when I was buying my car four years ago, I
called my friendly local Mitsu dealer for advice on what to look for in a
used car (I didn't know about this list at the time). The service manager
warned me to check for bad synchros in the tranny!!
The GM dealer I bought it from was closely affiliated with the neighboring
Mitsu dealer in St. Louis, and they fairly INSISTED (well, really strongly
encouraged) that I buy a warranty, and sold me one at cost ($1,700 for a
3-year, 100,000 mile bumper to bumper). They also did a timing belt and a
new clutch before selling me the car. I think they KNEW that the tranny was
going when they sold it to me, which is why they insisted on the
warranty.
So I bought mine with the warranty and, sure 'nuf, the tranny went out at
65,000 miles. No complaints here, because covered repairs paid for that
warranty three times over.
Don't tell me Mitsu didn't know about this problem a long, long time ago.
It is a weakness in our tranny, and folks who don't have problems are just
flat lucky. They got one of the few good ones.
It's like the old joke about hard drives: There are two kinds of people in
this world: Them who have had disk failures, and them who are going to
have disk failures.
Dennis is right: Our trannies ought to be recalled, too.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
At 08:52 AM 1/18/03 -0800, fastmax wrote:
>The survey on transmission
failures had about 10 respondents and about
>4 had failures at around the
60K mark --- even government statisticians
>require a larger data base
than that.
Maybe we should do the survey again.
My synchros failed at 65,000 miles.
No transmission abuse on my part,
but I can't speak for the original owner.
New replacement tranny: started leaking immediately after
installation.
There's 1 for the new survey.
94 VR4
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 09:18:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: What Cam gears are best??
I have been looking at cam gears for my engine. So
far I have come
across 2 different brands: Fidanza and
Unorthodox Racing. The
Unorthodox Racing cam gears go
for about $800.00 and the Fidanza cam gears go
for
about $500.00. Why are the prices so different, are
the
Unorthodox Racing gears that much better, and if
so why? Does anyone
know of cam gears for the
Stealth/3000gt made by other brands?
Thank you
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 12:19:30 -0500
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Survey time
My transmission went out at 40,000 miles and then again at 47,000
miles.
Plus when they replaced it at 47,000 they broke the downpipe,
the
catalytic converter that is before the downpipe and the 02 sensor.
I
believe why it went out so soon was due to them not putting the 2nd
one
in properly from the get go. I expressed concern right away and
they
said no they are all somewhat hard to place into 2nd. It was
documented
and when it went out, the fight began. Luckily Mitsubishi
backed me and
said it had been documented and had to be replaced under
warranty. The
car has never been raced or abused and in fact, my mother
owned the car
for most of the time and during the time the transmission
originally
went out. Now I am going to court against the Mitsubishi
dealership for
the broken parts from the last time they put in a
transmission.
-----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003
12:08 PM
At 08:52 AM 1/18/03 -0800, fastmax wrote:
>The survey on transmission
failures had about 10 respondents and about
>4 had failures at around the
60K mark --- even government statisticians
>require a larger data base
than that.
Maybe we should do the survey again.
My synchros failed at 65,000 miles.
No transmission abuse on my part,
but I can't speak for the original
owner.
New replacement tranny: started leaking immediately after
installation.
There's 1 for the new survey.
94 VR4
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 12:00:56 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Survey time
> Maybe we should do the survey again.
>
> My synchros
failed at 65,000 miles.
> No transmission abuse on my part, but I can't
speak for the
> original owner. New replacement tranny: started
leaking
> immediately after installation.
I've had zero transmission problems at 66,000 miles. I did,
however,
shatter one of the gears in the transfercase. The previous '94
VR4 I owned
also had zero driveline problems well past 60,000 miles.
I'd say I'm very hard on my cars, but I do know how to shift properly
and
have never ground the gears (a primary cause of synchro failure).
That's two more.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#56
**************************************
