Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth
Friday, January 17 2003 Volume 02 : Number
055
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:09:43 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E."
<cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Help!!! Heavy Vibration under load...
If you use Pete's idea, you
need to get all four wheels off the ground.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Labonte, Dan
[mailto:DLabonte@SturmanIndustries.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003
10:42 AM
AI Nut,
I think you might be correct. There is a
warning label on the inside of the drivers door stating not to engage the
drive line while the vehicle is off the ground as it could damage the
Viscous Coupling Unit (spell?) I will use Pete's idea.
Using a level
the Chamber appears off on the right front, so I suspect he's the
one.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:09:58
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help!!! Heavy Vibration under load...
By lifting both front
wheels off the ground on our FWD or AWD models, either
front wheel can be
freely and safely turned by hand (they spin in opposite
directions). The
(stock) front diff is open on all models.
For AWD models, the rear
wheels can be safely turned also by hand or by the
engine/tranny if all 4
wheels are off the ground and free to spin. The rear
diff is limited slip as
is the center diff (both use a viscous coupling unit).
Putting the
transaxle in neutral only separates the wheels (or diffs) from the
engine
(flywheel). The center diff with its planetary gear system and VCU
still
"connects" front and rear diffs.
More info on our AWD
system:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-awd.htm
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:11:45
-0600
From: Jon Paine <ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Help!!! Heavy Vibration under load...
Full time transfer case with
silicone viscous couplings for limited
slip. The wheels can only be driven
with all 4 off the ground (or on
rollers) at the same time.
It's OK
to turn them by hand; that's not enough to mess up the viscous
couplings.
Jon
Rivenburg, Pete wrote:
> That's
right!!
> I imagine you guys with transfer cases can't shift them into
neutral
> like a 4x4 can you? Unless the differential(s) allow a bit of
> free-wheeling this rules out the pointer test too unless all four
> wheels are in the air at once. What kind of diff do VR4's have anyway?
> Standard spider gears, limited slip or lockers of another
flavor?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:34:34
+0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: driveline play -
still there
> Would it be as simple as leaving the car in
> gear
on the ground and unbolting the driveshaft
> and testing for freeplay in
each of the
> driveline components??? (Rear diff, then
> driveline,
then output shaft?) If so how
> hard is it to remove the
driveline?
Yup. Easy enough to drop the shaft from the rear
diff. 4 bolts on a flange,
if I remember right. Just try to
rotate the joints at each piece and you
should be able to tell how much play
is in each component.
Its unlikely there's much play in the splines, so
concentrate on areas where
there are gears and U-joints (transfer case, rear
diff input, joints mating the
driveshaft pieces together). The
transfer case would be difficult to check
without taking it off the car and
figuring out how to stop the input shaft
from turning.
Just be
methodical about it - one step at a time.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:36:39
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help!!! Heavy Vibration under load...
Cool technology!
I
have a 94 FWD autobox, anyone know off the cuff what kind of coupling they use?
I did a test in the snow a few weeks ago and it DID throw snow from both
front wheels when goosed (no chains, no snow tires). I know, snow in
Arizona, what a concept!! I did travel 100 miles to get to it.
Pete
Rivenburg
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jon Paine
[mailto:ppainej@attglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 10:12
AM
Full time transfer case with silicone viscous couplings for limited
slip. The wheels can only be driven with all 4 off the ground (or on
rollers) at the same time.
It's OK to turn them by hand; that's not
enough to mess up the viscous
couplings.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 18:21:15
-0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Team3S:
FW: check engine light, runs rough
Can anyone help these folks?
Please reply to them directly, as they are not list members.
Thanks!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire,
England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
http://www.the-matthews.com
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T
Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust
System K&N FIPK, A'pexi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC) A'pexi
Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve Magnecore spark plug
wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer
& diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79
sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
- -----Original Message-----
From: japaneseimports
[mailto:info@japaneseimports.co.uk]
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 12:01
PM
To: jim@the-matthews.com
Subject: Problem
Hi
We have a
Mitsubishi GTO (3000GT)in our workshop at the moment and it is not really a
vehicle we have worked on before.
The engine check light is on and
the engine is very reluctant to start, if it does start it runs
rough
Do you have any idea what may be causing this or how we can get the
diagnostic codes from the vehicle.
If you are not able to help I
would be grateful if you could point us in the direction of someone who
may be able to help us.
Thanks for taking the time to read this
Best
Regards
Malcolm Edwards
www.japaneseimports.co.uk
Tel.01606
841199
Japanese Imports
Brooks Lane
Middlewich
Cheshire
CW10
0JE
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 13:44:40
-0500
From: Rod2414738@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: strange
thumping
A couple of questions:
- -When you went into neutral and
revved the engine, where you stopped or rolling?
- -Are you sure it's a
vibration and not an engine miss (from a bad plug, wire, coilpack,
etc.)? Granted, an electrical miss would cause a vibration.
-
-Rod
'93 Stealth R/T TT
In a message dated 1/15/2003 11:34:13 PM
Eastern Standard Time, joe p <jpriceiv@comcast.net>
writes:
>This is my first post and am no mechanic by
far.
>
>I have a '97 3000GT base, manual trans, with a little over
100,000
>miles. I live in jersey and the weather is extremely cold. I did
not
>warm up my car first. Tonight I was driving home and I felt this
>thumping or bumping coming from my car. At first I though it was little
>bumps in the pavement but the more I drove I still felt it. I felt it
>all the way, about 5 miles. It seems to only happen when I am over
>about 3000 rpm's in any gear. When it's in neutral and I rev the
>engine, I do not feel or hear anything out of the ordinary. The
>thumping seems to be coming from directly under the hood and rattles
>the whole car. I can not pinpoint it exactly because I can only feel
>this when I am actually driving. Has anyone has ever experienced this
>problem or anything like it before and know what it may be? I am due
>for an oil change in about 1,000 miles. My clutch was just replaced
>about 6 months ago. I really don't know what else to say but HELP!!! I
>will be happy to provide any answers (that I can) to any questions, on
>or off the list. Thanks.
>
>Joe P4
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 18:52:13
+0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help!!! Heavy
Vibration under load...
> Cool technology!
> I have a 94 FWD
autobox, anyone know off
> the cuff what kind of coupling they
use?
Open front differential - no limited slip. It'll spin both if
neither wheel
has much traction. If you park with one side on ice and
the other on
pavement, it'll sit and spin the side on ice and you'll just
sit there.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:19:27
-0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
driveline play - still there
Book sez --- make sure you mark the assembly
before taking it apart as you should reassemble the driveshaft the way it
was. That of course assumes it's assembled correctly to start
with.
Jim Berry
================================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "BlackLight"
<BlackLight@planetice.net>
> Yup. Easy enough to drop the
shaft from the rear diff. 4 bolts on a
> flange, if I remember
right. Just try to rotate the joints at each
> piece and you should
be able to tell how much play is in each
> component.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:41:00
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
driveline play - still there
While the topic of driveline play is out of
the bag, how much of a hurry should I be in? Should I refrain from going
to Tahoe again this weekend?
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
clunk...shake...CLUNK!
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 20:20:49
+0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: driveline play -
still there
> Book sez --- make sure you mark the assembly
>
before taking it apart as you should reassemble
> the driveshaft the way
it was. That of course
> assumes it's assembled correctly to start
with.
Yup, I should've mentioned that. Good catch!
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 13:07:41
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine rebuild. Where to get parts? What parts to get?
Well, finally
after many skipped lunches and lots of shopping around I got the bulk of what
I need to get my baby back on the road (92 VR4). Timing belt skipped due
to timing belt gasket getting into the gears. 0 compression, trashed
valves, likely pistons too. Block has 174k on it.
New stuff:
Did 60k
less than 15,000 miles ago so I am keeping the pulley, tensioner and water pump.
There seems to be nothing wrong with the belt, but I might swap it just
for the hell of it. Keeping stock rods.
Got re-machined heads. They
look brand new, 3 angle valve job done, all new valves etc.
Got exhaust
cams from a 91 SL, keeping the stock intake cams.
Got new pistons.
Bumping up compression a bit and going with higher engine volume.
Now,
the questions that I got is what should I do next? There seem to be aftermarket
choices for bearings, gaskets, etc. Where should I buy, what should I buy?
What work should I outsource?
Thanks,
Tyson V.
Tee-Speed
Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 13:40:25
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine rebuild. Where to get parts? What parts to get?
Yea, but
getting the belt on with the engine off the car is going to be 1000 times
easier.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Fay
[mailto:jfay@tssu.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 1:41 PM
I
would trash the belt, it is known they are only good for 60K when well taken
care of. Yours may have been stretched when the gasket went under
the crank pulley, and might have broken cords inside the belt.
Look
on the bright side, it only took 10 or 12 times to get the belt right the last
time, if I recall correctly, now is your chance to get it done under 6
times, which is my personal best.
good luck Tee
Jim
91
RTTT
All mine now that the daughters are in college and navy
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:14:51
-0500
From: "vijay" <vijay@buydeal.com>
Subject: Team3S: performance
exhaust
Hello everyone,
I'm planning for performance exhaust for
95 3000GT NT, please recommend
the brand and any extra
mods.
Thanks
VJ
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 20:45:25
EST
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Downpipe Q's in
general-kinda long
hi guys-
I am looking for an exhaust upgrade
for my SL, specifically a downpipe.
Before I commit to it I had a few
questions:
First-how exactly does a new DP help performance? The
diameter of the exhaust
manifold and cat where it hooks up to are the same
smaller size, so how will
it get more air out of the
car?
Second-Because more air is coming out of the engine, will it put
added stress
on my cat converter? Will emissions suffer at
all?
Third-Will the car sound and run any different? Will I get the same
gas
mileage or better/worse?
Fourth-There is a stock exhaust on it
now, but by the summer I hope to have
the downpipe and a Borla exhaust on
it. They should compliment each other
nicely right?
The DP would be
bought first.
Thanks for any help you guys can give. Sorry for so many
questions-but there
is only one red 3000GT in my driveway, and I would like
to take care of it as
best I can.
Mike
- -97 SL
K&N
FIPK
DN Intake pipe
Infinity kappas 3 1/2's, 6 1/2's, 6x9's
AAM Spec
GTO cover plate.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 18:59:18
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
Disclaimer: I make exhausts :)
However I don't have an NA pipe for ya yet, so I am giving you my best
knowledge here.
Look for answers below.
I am looking for an
exhaust upgrade for my SL, specifically a downpipe.
Before I commit to
it I had a few questions. a€¦
First-how exactly does a new DP help
performance? The diameter of the exhaust
manifold and cat where it hooks up
to are the same smaller size, so how will
it get more air out of the
car?
>> There are 2 things wrong with the stock downpipe. First and
lesser of
>> the two is the front bank 90 degree bend. It uses a 2"
pipe and is a
>> crush bend, which reduces the size of the hole;
likely to as little
>> as 1.5in. The second and much more serious
problem is the
>> F-connection where the rear exhaust bank combines
with the front. Due
>> to lack of a collector, and the shape of the
connection the flow
>> coming from the front bank is blocked in the
already narrow pipes by
>> the flow out of the rear bank. Resulting
back-pressure is a major hit
>> to power and to turbo spool time.
Aftermarket pipes that you look at
>> should use mandrel bent tubes,
have a Y flow and should have a roomy
>> collector for the flows to
combine.
Second-Because more air is coming out of the engine, will it put
added stress
on my cat converter? Will emissions suffer at
all?
>>More air will not be coming out of the engine. It is the
same volume
>>just going through a bigger pipe which will make it flow
slower. From
>>what I understand of Catalytic converters, this should
actually help
>>them do their job.
Third-Will the car sound and
run any different? Will I get the same gas
mileage or
better/worse?
>> Yes because the flows will not interfere as much
there will be a
>> slightly deeper note to the car. It is noticeable
but not huge.
>> Gutting/eliminating pre-cats will have much more of
an effect on
>> sound.
Fourth-There is a stock exhaust on it
now, but by the summer I hope to have
the downpipe and a Borla exhaust on
it. They should compliment each other
nicely right?
>> Do your
research. Personally (PERSONAL OPINION), I do not like the
>> Borla at
all. It uses 3" main piping, which is great, however has a
>> 2.5"
reducer ring at the flange which defeats the whole purpose of
>>
having a 3" exhaust. For an NA car, that should not be a big deal. My
>> other beef with it is that it is HEAVY! HKS is very heavy too,
>> heavier than stock, which is hard to believe!
The DP would
be bought first.
>> The Downpipe is mainly a power gain mod. You
lose some weight, even
>> more if you ditch the cats, but power is
your chief gain. With a
>> cat-back you will not be gaining much power
at all. The main reason
>> to get a cat-back is weight reduction. With
a light single-out system
>> you can save A LOT of weight! If Weight
is not important to you, save
>> money for something else. If looks is
your thing, weld on some better
>> tips. Performance-wise there is
little wrong with the stock exhaust.
Thanks for any help you guys can
give. Sorry for so many questions-but there
is only one red 3000GT in my
driveway, and I would like to take care of it as
best I can.
>>
NP. Another thing to consider on the cats. (AGAIN OPINION) Cats in
>>
general are a scam. Unless you are in a lab they don't do much and
>>
they are heavy as sin. Take them off, gut them, trash them, do
>>
whatever. They restrict flow and have a weight ratio of a brick.
Tyson
V.
Tee-Speed Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 20:56:27
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
State laws differ but
basically you are not allowed to remove any emission control device. In
most places you can replace it by another, like replacing the main cat with a
high-flow cat... All a high flow cat is, is a regular cat with a huge hole
drilled in the center. Cats are a joke, they don't work!
Far as an
Automatic, I am sure it will help, but I do not know how an auto tranny sits
down there. I have yet to look at an NA as far as making exhaust. Its on
the list of things to do...
Tyson V.
Tee-Speed
Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Thursday, January 16, 2003 7:21 PM
To: 'Tyson Varosyan'
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
Tyson,
His 3000GT SL is
an automatic if that makes any difference. Don't know how much performance
one can wring out of that.
Also, catalytic converters are mandatory
in the US, right? There might not be anything IN them but I was
under the impression you still had to have one on the car. Pre-cats are
another story. Those can be eliminated outright.
True?
- --Flash!
P.S. Have any need for a stock catback exhaust for
any reason?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 00:16:03
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
Tyson,
It
does not appear that you are saying to "replace" them but to remove them
completely. You say, "Take them off, gut them, trash them, do
whatever." Here in PA it is illegal to sell a car that does not have
a cat and come emission time it is illegal to own a car without a cat (it
will not pass inspection which I guess is illegally having it registered as a
legally emissioned car). Don't know 'bout you out there or Mike over
in Joisey. If you are suggesting to owners here in PA to remove
their cats then you might wanna get a whole mess of legal documents
prepared for when you are fined for selling an exhaust that contains no
cat. At least, that is what I understand about our PA laws. Someone
correct me if they are inaccurate.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003
23:56
State laws differ but basically you are not allowed to remove any
emission control device. In most places you can replace it by another,
like replacing the main cat with a high-flow cat... All a high flow cat
is, is a regular cat with a huge hole drilled in the center. Cats are a
joke, they don't work!
Far as an Automatic, I am sure it will help, but I
do not know how an auto tranny sits down there. I have yet to look at an
NA as far as making exhaust. Its on the list of things to do...
Tyson
V.
Tee-Speed Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 21:08:55
-0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
I'll have to differ with you on that
one ---- just for the hell of it I ran a pretest on my car in California
with gutted precats and a testpipe. Hydrocarbons showed 473 PPM at low idle with
a max allowed of 100 and showed about 6 PPM with the cats and precats
installed. It passed high idle with about 55 PPM with an allowed of 130. I
expect to see about 15 or so with the main cat reinstalled and gutted
precats. Carbon monoxide went from 0.0% to about 1% with a 1%
limit.
Catalytic converters do their job
!!!
Jim Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Sent:
Thursday, January 16, 2003 8:56 PM
> State laws differ but basically
you are not allowed to remove any
> emission control device. In most
places you can replace it by another,
> like replacing the main cat with
a high-flow cat... All a high flow
> cat is, is a regular cat with a huge
hole drilled in the center. Cats
> are a joke, they don't work! Tyson
V.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 00:32:53
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
Tyson,
Also ... (I'll
shorten the article which can be found on the second link below). I'm not
100% sure if this means you can't sell an exhaust lacking a cat to someone
in PA but I'm sure the answer is out there. I just as well steer
clear of that area of the car to be safe. (Note: only certain
counties in PA require emission testing but I happen to reside in one of
them.)
Another page notes, "Converters are mandatory on all [PA] vehicles
from the manufacturing date of 1975 to present. E.P.A law requires
that all vehicles come equipped with catalytic converters. Any
removal of these devices can lead to fines ranging from $2500 to
$10000."
(www.competitionexhaust.com/info1.htm)
-
--Flash!
http://www.epa.gov/fedrgstr/EPA-GENERAL/2002/June/Day-10/g14481.htm
Agency
Information Collection Activities:
Submission for OMB Review;
Comment
Request, Aftermarket Catalytic Converter Policy
[Federal Register:
June 10, 2002 (Volume 67, Number 111)] [Notices] [Page 39713-39714] From
the Federal Register Online via GPO Access [wais.access.gpo.gov]
[DOCID:fr10jn02-74]
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ENVIRONMENTAL
PROTECTION AGENCY
[FRL-7225-9]
Agency Information Collection
Activities: Submission for OMB
Review; Comment Request, Aftermarket
Catalytic Converter Policy
AGENCY: Environmental Protection Agency
(EPA).
ACTION: Notice.
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
SUPPLEMENTARY
INFORMATION:
Abstract: <snip> Without this policy,
it would be illegal to sell or install aftermarket catalytic converters
that do not conform exactly to the automobile manufacturers' original
equipment (OE) versions of these
parts.
<snip>
Installers of aftermarket
converters: Installers have no reporting
requirements. They simply fill out
the warranty card and hand it to the
retail customer. They must also include
a brief statement with each
invoice stating the need for replacing the
original converter. They
also tag each removed converter with a reference to
the invoice for
repair. The invoices are required to be kept for 6 months.
The tagged
converters are required to be kept for 15
days.
An agency may not conduct or sponsor, and a person
is not required
to respond to, a collection of information unless it
displays a
currently valid OMB control number. The OMB control numbers for
EPA's
regulations are listed in 40 CFR part 9 and 48 CFR chapter 15.
<snip>
Dated: May 30, 2002.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 23:43:22
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
60k Tune-up List [alternator belt}
I'm glad to hear that we've been of
help.
For your belt:
You can buy some belt dressing to aid in
making the belt "stickier" temporarily. However, this is a VERY temporary
fix. Tightening the belt may stop the noise, but the belt will deteriorate
much quicker after you do that since the cracks will expand. For your own sake,
hurry up and get this taken care of. Once the belt snaps, you will have a
maximum of 30 minutes to drive the car before it goes completely dead. The
tow truck will easily cost you $50 and over an hour of your
time.
Riyan
93 rt tt
- ---------->
Anthony Tse
wrote:
Thanks Guys! Your replies really make me clear about
what to
buy. I can see & hear my alternator belt is
cracking & making a loud
noise during high boost. I'll
tight it a bit harder while waiting for the
parts
arrive. Hopefully I won't break it right away. Thanks
again!
Anthony
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:00:49
-0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
Wow, didn't mean to get a
flood started here... But bottom line here is, I am not shoving this down
anyone's throat. The guys I was talking to today don't even have cars that fit
my systems. I don't want to continue this thread with more "I read this",
"well law says that".
Everyone make your own decisions. Make sure to read
your car insurance limitations. Those that say that performance
modifications void your coverage. Read laws regarding tires and wheels.
Read EPA and other laws, by letter you cant even touch your exhaust system at
all. Ohh and make sure to have that State Patrol approved garbage baggy
too, that's a law as well. And in Glendale, AZ cars cannot be driven in
reverse, that is against the law too. But at the same time 3SX pre-cat
eliminators sell for $500, people use EGR block-off plates, test pipes go are
being ordered faster than I can make them and people in Glendale still
have reverse gears.
Having as this thread is wandering from the
"Technical 3000GT/Stealth discussion" I think we should just all drop it
:)
Tyson V.
Tee-Speed
Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:15:48
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@planetice.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help!!! Heavy Vibration under load...
For me it is not a
speed related problem, it will always happen under those specific
conditions and pretty much no other time, which leads me to believe it
would not be a wheel, all my alignment and wheel related problems on other
cars have always had certain characteristics at certain speeds or gotten
worse at higher speeds, this is always the same thing, the same intensity,
under the same conditions regardless of speed or direction.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Rivenburg, Pete"
<privenburg@firstam.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 8:30
AM
> I jack up a wheel and simply put something heavy next to it that
has a
> protrusion I may use as a pointer. Slide the pointer up to the
outer
> rim of the wheel wherever convenient& give it a slow
turn.
> You should be able to see obvious warpage of ANY of
> the
outer rotating components (hub or wheel) this way.
> Not having taken
apart the front driveline yet I don't
> know if this would show a bent
outer shaft or not. If you do see
> a variance on the wheel rim, then
take it off and do the same to just
> the hub smooth outer ring were the
wheel touches. I do use a dial
> indicator for this but it is not
strictly necessary to get an idea of
> were the wobble comes from. This
also helps spot bad bearings by
> putting vertical torque on the hub and
watching for play.
>
> Pete R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:49:55
-0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Selling My Car, Again (Somewhat OT)
Once again I'm writing about
trying to sell my 1997 3000GT VR-4. Like last time, the info is all
at http://www.geocities.com/bradford.rm/carsforsale.html. The latest news
is that I've been offered $24K for it and the guy who offered that has
also offered trading me his 2001 BMW 330i for it. That's all the
info I have on the BMW for now. I remember from the last time this
came up I was told to take the $24K for it (and I plan to), but if anyone
out there has an opinion, feel free to e-mail me off list.
Thanks.
- -Brad
1997 3000GT VR-4
1991 Galant
VR-4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:34:45
-0500
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Team3S: Another
Vibration Under Load Problem
I've been reading the Vibrating Under Load
thread with interest.
I finally got my 92 RT TT back on the road a week
ago after 3 years of storage. After one day of driving it I started
to get a huge vibration under load.
When the clutch hooks up there's a
shudder from the driveline. In lower gears the shudder lessons as I
get higher up in the power band. In high gears, at lower RPM, just a
slight throttle makes a HUGE shudder. So much that I couldn't even
drive in 5th gear on the expressway.
Is this a clutch issue? (140k
miles) U-Joint maybe? (I had the gold-plated driveshaft replaced
about 30k miles ago - at least I think it was gold-plated - for what it
cost.)
Any ideas?
Thanks all,
Steve C.
92 R/T TT
93
MR2 Turbo
96 Impala SS
70 Charger R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:43:13
-0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: xfer case recall
The issue is that even if you have the dealer
inspect and replace
bad/worn/leaking/broken TCs, that doesn't 'fix' the
problem. That just
delays till the next time this will happen.
Most everyone on this board
believes the dealer should inspect to cover
themselves.
Dennis -==- Philly
David Margrave wrote:
>
Hello,
>
> I got the letter for the recall from Chrysler
today.
>
> Have some folks forgone getting this taken care of
because their cases
> don't leak, and because of what one poster called
the 'idiot mojo' of
> the dealer, which I fully appreciate! But
there could be liability
> associated with not letting the dealer
'officially' check your
> vehicle, even if it is not leaking. I
don't want to be on the hook.
>
> Incidentally my car is a 1991, and
there was a previous transfer case
> leak-related recall on this vehicle
that was completed in dec. 1993.
> I guess this is yet another
leak. These transfer cases are such garbage!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:45:37
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Downpipe Q's in general-kinda long
For clarification, laws
regarding the removal of emission control devices are federal laws, not
state. And since they are federal they are, for the most part, uniform
from state to state.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan
[mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 11:56
PM
State laws differ but basically you are not allowed to remove any
emission control device. In most places you can replace it by another,
like replacing the main cat with a high-flow cat... All a high flow cat
is, is a regular cat with a huge hole drilled in the center. Cats are a
joke, they don't work!
Far as an Automatic, I am sure it will help, but I
do not know how an auto tranny sits down there. I have yet to look at an
NA as far as making exhaust. Its on the list of things to do...
Tyson
V.
Tee-Speed Performance
www.tyspeedperformance.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:40:11
-0500
From: "Elbert & Brenda" <bjs72@foothills.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Mitsubishi
I just finished completely rebuilding my Mitsubishi
3000gt. When I fired it up, it ran, with a slight miss and a couple back
fires, didn't seem to be related to timing problems. All timing marks are
aligned perfectly, and the belt is new. The car ran approx 10 minutes before
being shut off. It would not start back. Tries to, but seems be firing on one
two or three cylinders only. HELP !!!!
Thanks
,Elbert
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 07:15:15
-0800
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mitsubishi
Have you checked the plug wires to make sure they start and
end at the right places? Is battery voltage 13.5 to 14.5 volts? Are
battery terminals clean and secure? Are all ground wires completely hooked
up?
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 07:20:40
-0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fuel/Air Readings
I've been paying more attention to my F/A readings
lately and would like to know what other people are getting for readings on
their cars and what is stock or normal readings. I'm doing a little more
fine tuning with my SAFC and will be using this information to dial it
in.
Readings I need:
- -Cold idle
- -Warm idle
-
-Cruise
- -50% throttle
- -WOT throttle
- -deceleration (throttle
closed and car in gear)
What I am currently reading is:
- -Cold
Idle 17
- -Warm Idle 16
- -Cruise 14.6
- -50% throttle 15.3?
-
-WOT 12
- -Deceleration 20
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 10:33:54
-0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help on motor mounts
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>Looks like I need motor mounts.
>
>Should I
replace all four? I can see that the top front one is bad, but
>I can't
tell with the rest. Evidence indicates that the motor is moving
>around
pretty good. I have 80,000 miles...do yez think all four are
>bad?
Bite the bullet and do all at once. Wonder how the 3SX
urethane
bushings are? Vibrations?
Dennis-==-
Philly
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 10:06:36
-0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel/Air Readings
Nice thing about our ECU's... They learn...
Meaning, you can adjust and adjust all the little bits you want, but so
long as you are within 10% of the factory setting, the ECU will figure out
the rest for you for all values except for WOT...
-
-Cody
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:37:35
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel/Air Readings
> What I am currently reading is:
>
> -Cold Idle 17
> -Warm Idle 16
> -Cruise 14.6
> -50%
throttle 15.3?
> -WOT 12
> -Deceleration 20
>
Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
Doug, if your gauge is accurate, it sounds
like you may have it running too lean in the low end such that the ECU
can't richen it up anymore to get back to stoich. What injectors do you
have? If they're big ones, I wonder if they are having trouble with
extremely low duty cycles at idle?
The 50% throttle reading
seems a little lean - maybe too much trim with the AFC. Probably
won't hurt the car since you're probably still in closed loop at that
point, but your EGTs and emissions will likely be a little higher than
normal. A friend of mine runs around 16.0 in closed loop mode and
gets fantastic gas mileage. He said anything leaner than that and
the engine doesn't like it too much.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with
stock fuel except for FP relay
Erik's '95 VR-4 Readings (GReddy
A/F gauge):
- -Cold idle random - sensor not warmed up yet
- -Warm
idle 14.7
- -Cruise 14.7 with infrequent blips to 13.0
- -50%
throttle Depends on load - 14.7 to 12.0
- -WOT throttle 11.0-12.5
-
-deceleration Max (17.0)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2 #55
**************************************