Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, January 14
2003 Volume 02 : Number 052
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:07:51 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S:
4ws
My 4ws Oil light has been staying on the past couple of days. It'll come on
when the car has been sitting out for a good amount of time (4+ hours in
20/30 F weather). It'll stay on when I turn the car on, and then turn off
once I get going.
When hit the guardrail, I swung around and hit it with the pass. side rear
fender. The gas tank lid was pushed pretty far in. Can something have
gotten damaged?
Am I doing any damage to the system by driving with it like that?
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 23:39:22 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
60k Tune-up List
I'll send you another e-mail with a very detailed parts list as soon as I
find it. You can begin searching the digests for keywords '60k parts list'
and you might find the list before I do! If anyone else on the board needs
this e-mail just let me know.
To answer your question:
Three parts in this area:
Timing Belt Tensioner
Timing Belt Tension Auto-Adjuster
Timing Belt
Idler Pulley
Yes, you need all three.
The timing belt tensioner is an eccentric pulley. It is two dots that the
special tool fits into for initial torque calibration. Afterward, it is
"adjusted" by the timing auto adjuster. The timing belt idler pulley, as
you said, is a basic round pulley. Esp. if you're are at the 120k service,
I'd recommend replacing all of these parts. It's not worth saving a few bucks to
risk losing your engine.
Why?? Specifically, the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley have sealed
bearings. But as these pulleys age, the seal may be lost. Moisture and
dirt can enter. If then happens, then first the pulleys usually get noisy.
Over time the pulleys will seize up. If either of these pulleys seize, you
are liking to jump timing and ruin your engine. Next, the timing belt tension
adjuster. It is a spring-loaded adjuster. The timing belt requires
consistent 7.2 ft.lbs of torque at all times. The spring can't be trusted
forever, which is why these should be replaced at the 60k service.
I may have gone into more detail than I needed, but only because I want to
justify my opinion. I replaced everything required & recommended
above... plus more. The reward is that I'm no longer afraid to push my
engine to its limits. When you're back on the freeway, passing cars... you
will be glad.
:)
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved" main
and front pre-cat, 450cc injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12 PSI, EK2
Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air Box, S-AFC, Boost, A/F,
and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP resistor
bypass+hotwire, U.P. Front and Rear S-Bars --- and PST CFDS going in
tomorrow!
- ---------------
Anthony Tse wrote:
Hi: I have a 92 VR4 & need to do the 120k soon. I
checked couple
people's web site for the part list.
Plugs, wires, fuel filter.... Most of
them are very
complete. But I have a question about the timing
tensioner,
timing belt tensioner, idler pulley, timing
auto adjuster, what are the
different between these
parts? Do I need all of them. I know some of them
are
the same just people name it different. Idler pulley
is a round
pulley. Is timing tensioner looks like 2
tracks that guide the belt? Can
anyone recommend a
list for the whole timing part list that I need to
get
including gaskets. Thanks in advance!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
The 4WS system has no electronics in it. The only reason, AFAIK, that that
light would be on is if you have a low fluid level in your steering fluid
reservoir.
Philip
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
My 4ws Oil light has been staying on the past couple of days. It'll come on
when the car has been sitting out for a good amount of time (4+ hours in
20/30 F weather). It'll stay on when I turn the car on, and then turn off
once I get going.
When hit the guardrail, I swung around and hit it with the pass. side rear
fender. The gas tank lid was pushed pretty far in. Can something have
gotten damaged?
Am I doing any damage to the system by driving with it like that?
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:29:06 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k Tune-up List
Anthony,
Here's what I've come up with so far (thanks to Riyan for his Email
of 12 November, included below):
BELTS & HOSES
Timing Belt MD193874
Power Steering Belt
MD172376
Accessory Belt (A/C & alternator) MB879764
Radiator Lower
Hose MB845941
Radiator Upper Hose MB605459
PULLEYS
Timing Belt Tension Auto-Adjuster MD319040
Timing Belt
Tensioner Pulley MD140071
Timing Belt Idler Pulley
MD151447/MD319022
Alternator-A/C Lower Tensioner Pulley MD630326 ("AC
Compressor Tensioner Pulley") Alternator-A/C Upper Tensioner Pulley
MD161716/MD318474 ("Alternator Tensioner Pulley") Power Steering Tensioner
Assembly MD172379
ROUTINE/PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Water Pump MD972005
Thermostat
MD174234
Fuel Filter MB658136
GASKETS
Throttle Body Gasket MD180361
Intake Plenum Gasket
MD143791
Water Pump gasket (if needed - should come with water pump)
Cam
oil seals 4x MD152603
Front crank oil seal MD120700
Timing Belt Cover
Gaskets:
MD186411
MD140090
MD186420
MD186419
MD186421
MD186422
MD186423
MD191621
SPARK
Spark Plugs (Bosch Platinum 4201?)
Spark plug gaskets MD186787
(if needed - should come with plugs)
INTERNALS
new style lifters (will they really eliminate the
ticking? part
number?)
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided
lines, red calipers Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 9:12 PM
There are four components in the timing area to replace IMO at the 2x60K
service.
Water Pump MD972005
Timing Belt Tension Auto-Adjuster MD319040
Timing
Belt Tensioner Pulley MD140071
Timing Belt Idler Pulley MD151447/MD319022
(either part number is an OE
replacement)
- ----
Here are the three accessory idler pulley part numbers:
Alternator-A/C Lower Tensioner Pulley MD630326
Alternator-A/C Upper
Tensioner Pulley MD161716/MD318474 (either part number is an OE
replacement) Power Steering Tensioner Assembly MD172379
as a side note, my Alternator-A/C Upper Tensioner Pulley was the one that
made the most noise. Since the bearings were dried up, it made a rattling
noise constantly, and a squeaky noise for awhile if I hadn't started the
car for more than 2 days. Also, realize that your squeaking noise could be
due to old belts. When belts get old, they stretch and lose tension. Temporary
fix = increase tension. But you're replacing them anyway.
- ----
Vacuum lines should be replaced only if you see cracks. I'd recommend
replacing the radiator hoses (upper and lower) at the 2x60k though:
Radiator Lower Hose MB845941
Radiator Upper Hose MB605459
- ----
My water pump did come with a new water pump gasket. Make sure you
double-check though. Your new spark plugs should come with new gaskets.
Check the resistance on your old plug wires. Replace them if they're out
of spec or marginal.
- ----
I would recommend getting all four cam oil seals (4x MD152603) as well as
the front crank oil seal (MD120700) replaced. If any of these seals start
leaking, then you could easily be buying a new engine when the timing belt
slips.
- ----
Motor Mounts and Suspension Bushings.... I gotta go study for a math
test
now :( Someone else w/CAPS want to take over for me? Also, I
didn't
replace either of these. Keep in mind that only one (of the four?)
motor mounts will actually be removed for the 60k service, and the dealer
won't be going to the suspension area for anything. You could easily do
these at a later date.
- ----
As a final warning, these parts were all looked up using my 93 stealth VIN.
All the part numbers should be compatible since my car falls under the new
block designation. However, I believe that some of the part numbers may
have changed across the board. For example, at least one of those
tensioner pulleys had a new, "more reliable" design and therefore had a new part
number. The dealer was able to look it up and cross reference it on the
spot though, so yours should be able to do the same.
Good luck, and enjoy the next 60k,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:03:19 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
driveline play - still there
So I got the PST CFDS installed today. There still is play in the
driveline. Here's what I do.
I'm sitting still with the e-brake on. I put the car in first gear and
suddenly let the clutch out and then push it back in. This *almost* stalls
the car. Then I do the same for reverse, and first gear again. Each time I
do this, I hear a clunk. It's not a very loud clunk, but it is there. It
seems like the clunk has improved slightly since the PST shaft... but not a
whole lot.
Here's another thing that makes a clunk.
I drive at a low speed in a high gear. Say for example... 30mph in fourth
or fifth gear (or an even wider spread). Then I let go of the gas, and
give the car gas again suddenly. When I do this, I hear the clunk. It can
actually get pretty loud when I use this method.
Now here's my question:
What's going on? I suppose my transfer case could be bad, but 30k isn't
really that many miles for it, right? At one point when I drained and
refilled the transfer case, it seemed kind of low. However, it sure wasn't
dry or anything.
Could it be the rear diff.?
Am I just over-reacting? Maybe this kind of
play in the driveline is normal? If anyone feels like doing the test that
I did, I'd really appreciate that.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
sure... more responsive with the light driveshaft. but did I really need to
spend that $1000?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:10:05 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: driveline play - still there
Its play in a gearset somewhere.
RWD cars..its almost always the LSD.
AWD cars?? Could be a few things, but IMHO..its nothing to worry
about.
It really takes a surprisingly small amount of play, to make noise.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:31:54 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TC Recall
Just took the '94 3000 VR-4 into Satan this morning for the transfer case
recall. They tell me they need to replace the seals; have to order
them and
will take 8 or 9 days to arrive. So what does this mean about
the reliability
and safety of my car?? If there is enough of a problem
for them to make a 2
cent fix, do I still need to be concerned with my
ultimate safety, as in the TC
locking up on us?
Aside: I told them I wanted Redline fluids put back in, and they didn't
know
what they were. In any case, they "can't" put in anything but
factory
recommended stuff. I said I don't care what Mitsu tells you,
this is my car
now, Mitsu doesn't own it. I will be happy to pay the
difference, of course.
Their reply was they would not do it. Should I
tell them to go
f@#$ themselves?
Thanks,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:34:15 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
driveline play - still there
Can I drive it fast and launch it with the clunk still there?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
The recall itself..-is- the seals, the hardware itself is just fine.
And no, under the Law, they CAN use 3rd party fluids, but they would have
to meet the manufacturers specs/ratings.
TO say "you can only use ours", under the law, says that they would have to
provide it free of charge. Its a basic consumer protection
right.
But then under the Law, redline fluids would have to have Govmnt
approval..with all the fancy stamps and shit too.
Take theirs, and swap it later yerself.
On Mon, 13 Jan 2003, AINut wrote:
> Just took the '94 3000 VR-4 into Satan this morning for the transfer
case
> recall. They tell me they need to replace the seals; have to
order them and
> will take 8 or 9 days to arrive. So what does this
mean about the reliability
> and safety of my car?? If there is
enough of a problem for them to make a 2
> cent fix, do I still need to
be concerned with my ultimate safety, as in the TC
> locking up on
us?
>
> Aside: I told them I wanted Redline fluids put back in, and
they didn't know
> what they were. In any case, they "can't" put in
anything but factory
> recommended stuff. I said I don't care what
Mitsu tells you, this is my car
> now, Mitsu doesn't own it. I will
be happy to pay the difference, of course.
> Their reply was they would
not do it. Should I tell them to go
f@#$
themselves?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:33:55 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
Re: launching.
What do you think caused the freeplay?
On Mon, 13 Jan 2003, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> Can I drive it fast and launch it with the clunk still there?
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:38:43 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
Have you checked the tranny mount? Particularly the mounting bolts,
when I first pulled my tranny I found out that 2 of 3 bolt holes where
stripped
bare..... Come to find out that was the most significant
source of
driveline noise in my case.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:45:28 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject:
Team3S: need wheels
Anyone find a good source for wheels, the 17x8 1/2 that fit a '94 3000
VR-4? I
need to replace all mine 8-(. I'm not able to give Satan
$600 each for them,
and wouldn't if I could. I really like the look of
the stock wheels and would
like to stay stock or a very close aftermarket
clone. If aftermarket, any
brands that are great and any brands to
stay away from? Last thing I need is
for their chrome to peel
off. Mine aren't doing that, at least.
Thanks,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:45:24 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TC Recall
The dealer can't put in anything but factory recommended stuff under a
safety recall. Otherwise, they are opening themselves up to a
potential liability claim. So they are right, you are wrong.
Just do a fluid drain/replace when you get your car back.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:45:28 -0600
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TC Recall
I haven't taken mine in yet (she's asleep for the winter) but I talked
to the service guys at satan and they said they'd put in whatever I
brought with (I have to provide it though). Of course, they'll bill
Mitsu for the stock stuff they didn't put in...
Jon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:04:32 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TC Recall
My issue is with the mechanics. I hate to take my car to the dealer
because I find that their mechanics, for the most part, are incompetent. I
have four cars, three of them needed to have warranty work done at some
point (2000 Malibu, 2000 A4 and my Stealth), and every time I got the car
back it had to go back in because the mechanics screwed something up. For
example, one day I took my A4 in to get a headlight changed under warranty
(it's a Xenon). When I got the car back, the speedo didn't
work. It took them 2-1/2 hours of my time to realize that they forgot
to re-connect the sensor harness. I also took it in for the
maintenance check-up, and told them not to change the oil because I want
to continue using Mobil-1 in it. Guess what? They changed it
anyway. My Stealth went in for the first transfer case recall (it's a 91), and
five visits later, it was fixed. A few years back I took my Stealth
in for some body work after a car in front of me kicked up a piece of tire
rubber that came down and smacked my front end. I took it to the
dealer to get fixed and guess what? They painted the car the wrong
color, and didn't realize it until I pointed it out to them! My
Malibu went in for warranty transmission work. Nine days later, I
got the car back. 20 minutes later, it was on a tow truck back to
the dealership to spend another 3 days. When I got it back, it
lasted a full day! Turned out the mechanic tightened the battery
cable too tight and it broke off inside the battery. So although I got my
recall in on Saturday for my Stealth, I'll spend the next few months
weighing the risks and deciding whether to roll the dice and take it in or
not.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jon Paine
[mailto:ppainej@attglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 3:45 PM
I haven't taken mine in yet (she's asleep for the winter) but I talked
to the service guys at satan and they said they'd put in whatever I
brought with (I have to provide it though). Of course, they'll bill
Mitsu for the stock stuff they didn't put in...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:12:12 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
need wheels
I've got a set of 94 chromes for sale --- they range from great to OK. They
can be rechromed for about $125 each.
Jim Berry
======================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AINut" <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Sent: Monday,
January 13, 2003 12:45 PM
> Anyone find a good source for wheels, the 17x8 1/2 that fit a '94 3000
> VR-4? I need to replace all mine 8-(. I'm not able to give
Satan $600
> each for them, and wouldn't if I could. I really like
the look of the
> stock wheels and would like to stay stock or a very
close aftermarket
> clone. If aftermarket, any brands that are great
and any brands to
> stay away from? Last thing I need is for their
chrome to peel off.
> Mine aren't doing that, at least.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:14:00 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
driveline play - still there
My motor mounts are all but shot, I know that causes a lot of clunking for
me...
-b
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:19:28 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S:WAS driveline play NOW Tranny mount
Truthfully if you drive our cars hard at all regularly or your mounts have
high mileage I would at least check them for wear and I would also check
the tranny bolt holes for wear anytime you change the clutch as a
precaution.......
Just my humble opinion, I have a few more since I have completely torn down
my car but I will share them as the topics come up.
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:52:01 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
driveline play - still there
hehe... not launching, that's for sure. The only reason I ask is because
I'm prepping this car to take it to the track...eventually.
But so far, I've not even once launched the car. It's actually been granny
shifted its whole life. The last owner was forty-something (she bought it
for her kid who didn't want it) so she kept it... but wouldn't even cross
3000 rpm :)
She gave me the car about 10,000 miles ago. I've kept it under 4000 rpm
before the (3x) 60k service, which was about 2,000 miles ago. I've gotten
the courage to take her to 6,000 after the service, but I still don't
launch and I double clutch all the time.
The car now has 190,000 miles. Like I said before, the TC has 30k. But the
rear diff still has all the 190k! That's what makes me think the rear diff
is the problem.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
- --------------------->
Geoff Mohler wrote:
Re: launching.
What do you think caused the freeplay?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:35:23 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
Ya..check bolts. I lost the rear MM bolt once..would hammer the
firewall on launches *heh*
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:15:53 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: driveline play - still there
> The car now has 190,000 miles. Like I said before,
> the TC has
30k. But the rear diff still has all
> the 190k! That's what makes me
think the rear
> diff is the problem.
Then why would you swap out the driveshaft? Did it have bad
joints?
Should've measured the rotational play in the rear diff before you
connected
your new driveshaft to see if it is within spec.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 20:22:48 -0800
From: "Michael, Sharon &
Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Replacement during TC Recall
Has anyone asked for clutch replacement during TC recall replacement?
Will Satan cut a deal for less than your soul?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:28:50 -0600
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Replacement during TC Recall
Sorry, they probably won't cut you a deal because there's a LOT more work
than pulling the transfer case to replace the clutch. The transfer
case comes off with relatively little work (just the downpipe.)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet Silverado HD
Duramax
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell
Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Sent:
Monday, January 13, 2003 10:22 PM
> Has anyone asked for clutch replacement during TC recall
replacement?
> Will Satan cut a deal for less than your soul?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:12:47 -0500
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri"
<
cerri@contractor.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear shock install on 92 SL
Thanks for the suggestions, but getting the bottom of the shock loose was
no big deal at all. Getting the whole strut out involved compressing the
spring in situ, then just sneaking it out after disconnecting the sway bar
(some sway bar though...).
It was a total bitch, and we stood staring at it for a long time, sure we'd
missed something.
Did we? Remember this is FWD not AWD.
Thanks again for all the help.
Andre
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 8:39 PM
If you're talking about the bottom of the rear shock there has been much
ranting and raving about how to remove it. On my California car all it
took was a medium sized pry bar to pop the bottom bushing loose. I read of
some folks using torches hacksaws, wrecking bars etc to free the bottom
mount. A good penetrating oil is the starting point, if you're not reusing the
shock they the sky's the limit on removal. Heat will probably cause the
rubber in the bushing to melt and the shock can then be removed leaving
the inner steel sleeve still attached to the mounting bolt, more heat, a
hacksaw or a Dremel [sp] tool will eventually free it. Take care of course
not to damage the threads on the mount.
Jim Berry
PS --- in case you didn't get that far, the car has to be jacked up at
which point
the rear
shock should be free from the top mount as the suspension
drops
and still
hanging on the bottom mount.
===============================================
> How the $$$$ do you get the strut out, after undoing the top two bolts
> and the big 17mmm bottom one?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:15:40 -0500
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Help!!! Heavy Vibration under load...
Team 3S Gurus,
I've had a 3s since 94 and I am completely stumped as to what's
wrong with my VR4.
I'm getting what feels like heavy vibration from the
suspension or wheels under any kind of acceleration.
To specify, This is purely front end vibration that is more pronounced in
lower gears and lower in the RPM band.
This vibration does not occur in neutral with positive throttle or idle,
but does occur during down shifting as well as acceleration. Engine
and turbo performance seems normal.. The car seems to have normal
power and boost levels are the same.
My first thought was a motor mount , but the vibration seems to correlate
almost to perfectly with acceleration and deceleration of the
engine. Is this still a possibility?
I was planning to visit Satan tomorrow but wanted some ideas b4 my trip to
the fiery depths of hell..
Scott
94 VR4
K&N FC,Apexi AVC-R,Borla,Greddy SType
BOV,
Porterfield Rotors and R4S pads.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:20:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k Tune-up List
Thanks Guys! Your replies really make me clear about
what to buy. I can
see & hear my alternator belt is
cracking & making a loud noise
during high boost. I'll
tight it a bit harder while waiting for the
parts
arrive. Hopefully I won't break it right away. Thanks
again! Anthony
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:27:12 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help!!! Heavy Vibration under load...
Definitely might be a motor mount. Mine were completely rotten and
falling apart. Look at
www.3sxperformance.com Before you
go see the dealer. Other causes might be in your driveline, like a
bad U-joint on your driveshaft, or a bad CV joint on an axle.
I'd bet on a bad U joint though, had a similar problem with my first jeep a
few years back....finally traced it, but not before the vibration ruined
the yoke going into the rear diff.
Don't drive it if you can avoid it.
Best of luck.
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:29:58 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Replacement during TC Recall
Replacing the transfer case has NOTHING to do with removing the
transmission. In order to replace the clutch, you have to remove and
re-install the tranny.
Generally, the only time you can save money is when there is no extra labor
involved in replacing a given part
....sorry....no deal to be had.
- -Jeff Crabtree
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dashiell Rhoden
Sent: Monday,
January 13, 2003 10:23 PM
Has anyone asked for clutch replacement during TC recall replacement?
Will Satan cut a deal for less than your soul?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:34:51 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: PST
CFDS... new issue
I drove my car around on the highway today, and wow, it vibrates now!
Especially at 70mph it gets really bad. Under 70 and above 70 it's not
quite so bad. I suppose that the old 3-piece driveshaft did a great job of
dampening. I do wonder whether the CFDS is vibrating because I have bad
mounts or too much play in the gears... or if the CFDS will vibrate
a lot no matter what. I suspect that the 3-piece shaft offers more
"leeway" for bad drivelines or failing mounts while things are more
obvious with the CFDS. Anyway, thanks to the suggestions I'm definitely going to
get those mounts looked at first. If they check out okay then I'll be
checking the t.case + diff next.
Riyan Mynuddin
93 stealth rt tt
shake rattle buzz whistle shake
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#52
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