Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Tuesday, January 14 2003   Volume 02 : Number 052
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:07:51 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: 4ws
 
My 4ws Oil light has been staying on the past couple of days. It'll come on when the car has been  sitting out for a good amount of time (4+ hours in 20/30 F weather). It'll stay on when I turn the  car on, and then turn off once I get going.
 
When hit the guardrail, I swung around and hit it with the pass. side rear fender. The gas tank lid  was pushed pretty far in. Can something have gotten damaged?
 
Am I doing any damage to the system by driving with it like that?
 
Alex.
'95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 23:39:22 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k Tune-up List
 
I'll send you another e-mail with a very detailed parts list as soon as I find it. You can begin  searching the digests for keywords '60k parts list' and you might find the list before I do! If  anyone else on the board needs this e-mail just let me know.
 
To answer your question:
 
Three parts in this area:
 
Timing Belt Tensioner
Timing Belt Tension Auto-Adjuster
Timing Belt Idler Pulley
 
Yes, you need all three.
 
The timing belt tensioner is an eccentric pulley. It is two dots that the special tool fits into  for initial torque calibration. Afterward, it is "adjusted" by the timing auto adjuster. The timing  belt idler pulley, as you said, is a basic round pulley. Esp. if you're are at the 120k service,  I'd recommend replacing all of these parts. It's not worth saving a few bucks to risk losing your  engine.
 
Why?? Specifically, the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley have sealed bearings. But as these  pulleys age, the seal may be lost. Moisture and dirt can enter. If then happens, then first the  pulleys usually get noisy. Over time the pulleys will seize up. If either of these pulleys seize,  you are liking to jump timing and ruin your engine. Next, the timing belt tension adjuster. It is a  spring-loaded adjuster. The timing belt requires consistent 7.2 ft.lbs of torque at all times. The  spring can't be trusted forever, which is why these should be replaced at the 60k service.
 
I may have gone into more detail than I needed, but only because I want to justify my opinion. I  replaced everything required & recommended above... plus more. The reward is that I'm no longer  afraid to push my engine to its limits. When you're back on the freeway, passing cars... you will  be glad.
:)
 
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
 
Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved" main and front pre-cat, 450cc  injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12 PSI, EK2 Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air  Box, S-AFC, Boost, A/F, and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP resistor bypass+hotwire,  U.P. Front and Rear S-Bars  --- and PST CFDS going in tomorrow!
 
- ---------------
 
Anthony Tse wrote:
 
Hi: I have a 92 VR4 & need to do the 120k soon. I
checked couple people's web site for the part list.
Plugs, wires, fuel filter.... Most of them are very
complete. But I have a question about the timing
tensioner, timing belt tensioner, idler pulley, timing
auto adjuster, what are the different between these
parts? Do I need all of them. I know some of them are
the same just people name it different. Idler pulley
is a round pulley. Is timing tensioner looks like 2
tracks that guide the belt? Can anyone recommend a
list for the whole timing part list that I need to
get including gaskets. Thanks in advance!
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:59:29 -0500
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 4ws
 
The 4WS system has no electronics in it. The only reason, AFAIK, that that light would be on is if  you have a low fluid level in your steering fluid reservoir.
 
Philip
 
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
My 4ws Oil light has been staying on the past couple of days. It'll come on when the car has been  sitting out for a good amount of time (4+ hours in 20/30 F weather). It'll stay on when I turn the  car on, and then turn off once I get going.
 
When hit the guardrail, I swung around and hit it with the pass. side rear fender. The gas tank lid  was pushed pretty far in. Can something have gotten damaged?
 
Am I doing any damage to the system by driving with it like that?
 
Alex.
'95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:29:06 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k Tune-up List
 
Anthony,
 
 Here's what I've come up with so far (thanks to Riyan for his Email of 12 November,  included below):
 
BELTS & HOSES
Timing Belt MD193874
Power Steering Belt MD172376
Accessory Belt (A/C & alternator) MB879764
Radiator Lower Hose MB845941
Radiator Upper Hose MB605459
 
PULLEYS
Timing Belt Tension Auto-Adjuster MD319040
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley MD140071
Timing Belt Idler Pulley MD151447/MD319022
Alternator-A/C Lower Tensioner Pulley MD630326 ("AC Compressor Tensioner Pulley") Alternator-A/C  Upper Tensioner Pulley MD161716/MD318474 ("Alternator Tensioner Pulley") Power Steering Tensioner  Assembly MD172379
 
ROUTINE/PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Water Pump MD972005
Thermostat MD174234
Fuel Filter MB658136
 
GASKETS
Throttle Body Gasket MD180361
Intake Plenum Gasket MD143791
Water Pump gasket (if needed - should come with water pump)
Cam oil seals 4x MD152603
Front crank oil seal MD120700
Timing Belt Cover Gaskets:
MD186411
MD140090
MD186420
MD186419
MD186421
MD186422
MD186423
MD191621
 
SPARK
Spark Plugs (Bosch Platinum 4201?)
Spark plug gaskets MD186787 (if needed - should come with plugs)
 
INTERNALS
new style lifters (will they really eliminate the ticking?  part
number?)
 
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
http://www.the-matthews.com
 
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable  Exhaust System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec),  Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth  fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers  Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @  113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin [mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 9:12 PM
 
There are four components in the timing area to replace IMO at the 2x60K service.
 
Water Pump MD972005
Timing Belt Tension Auto-Adjuster MD319040
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley MD140071
Timing Belt Idler Pulley MD151447/MD319022 (either part number is an OE
replacement)
 
- ----
 
Here are the three accessory idler pulley part numbers:
 
Alternator-A/C Lower Tensioner Pulley MD630326
Alternator-A/C Upper Tensioner Pulley MD161716/MD318474 (either part number is an OE replacement)  Power Steering Tensioner Assembly MD172379
 
as a side note, my Alternator-A/C Upper Tensioner Pulley was the one that made the most noise.  Since the bearings were dried up, it made a rattling noise constantly, and a squeaky noise for  awhile if I hadn't started the car for more than 2 days. Also, realize that your squeaking noise  could be due to old belts. When belts get old, they stretch and lose tension. Temporary fix =  increase tension. But you're replacing them anyway.
 
- ----
 
Vacuum lines should be replaced only if you see cracks. I'd recommend replacing the radiator hoses  (upper and lower) at the 2x60k though:
 
Radiator Lower Hose MB845941
Radiator Upper Hose MB605459
 
- ----
 
My water pump did come with a new water pump gasket. Make sure you double-check though. Your new  spark plugs should come with new gaskets. Check the resistance on your old plug wires. Replace them  if they're out of spec or marginal.
 
- ----
 
I would recommend getting all four cam oil seals (4x MD152603) as well as the front crank oil seal  (MD120700) replaced. If any of these seals start leaking, then you could easily be buying a new  engine when the timing belt slips.
 
- ----
 
Motor Mounts and Suspension Bushings.... I gotta go study for a math test
now :(   Someone else w/CAPS want to take over for me? Also, I didn't
replace either of these. Keep in mind that only one (of the four?) motor mounts will actually be  removed for the 60k service, and the dealer won't be going to the suspension area for anything. You  could easily do these at a later date.
 
- ----
 
As a final warning, these parts were all looked up using my 93 stealth VIN. All the part numbers  should be compatible since my car falls under the new block designation. However, I believe that  some of the part numbers may have changed across the board. For example, at least one of those  tensioner pulleys had a new, "more reliable" design and therefore had a new part number. The dealer  was able to look it up and cross reference it on the spot though, so yours should be able to do the  same.
 
Good luck, and enjoy the next 60k,
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:03:19 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
So I got the PST CFDS installed today. There still is play in the driveline. Here's what I do.
 
I'm sitting still with the e-brake on. I put the car in first gear and suddenly let the clutch out  and then push it back in. This *almost* stalls the car. Then I do the same for reverse, and first  gear again. Each time I do this, I hear a clunk. It's not a very loud clunk, but it is there. It  seems like the clunk has improved slightly since the PST shaft... but not a whole lot.
 
Here's another thing that makes a clunk.
 
I drive at a low speed in a high gear. Say for example... 30mph in fourth or fifth gear (or an even  wider spread). Then I let go of the gas, and give the car gas again suddenly. When I do this, I  hear the clunk. It can actually get pretty loud when I use this method.
 
Now here's my question:
 
What's going on? I suppose my transfer case could be bad, but 30k isn't really that many miles for  it, right? At one point when I drained and refilled the transfer case, it seemed kind of low.  However, it sure wasn't dry or anything.
 
Could it be the rear diff.?
Am I just over-reacting? Maybe this kind of play in the driveline is normal? If anyone feels like  doing the test that I did, I'd really appreciate that.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
sure... more responsive with the light driveshaft. but did I really need to spend that $1000?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:10:05 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
Its play in a gearset somewhere.
 
RWD cars..its almost always the LSD.
 
AWD cars??  Could be a few things, but IMHO..its nothing to worry about.
 
It really takes a surprisingly small amount of play, to make noise.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:31:54 -0600
From: AINut <ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Team3S: TC Recall
 
Just took the '94 3000 VR-4 into Satan this morning for the transfer case
recall.  They tell me they need to replace the seals; have to order them and
will take 8 or 9 days to arrive.  So what does this mean about the reliability
and safety of my car??  If there is enough of a problem for them to make a 2
cent fix, do I still need to be concerned with my ultimate safety, as in the TC
locking up on us?
 
Aside: I told them I wanted Redline fluids put back in, and they didn't know
what they were.  In any case, they "can't" put in anything but factory
recommended stuff.  I said I don't care what Mitsu tells you, this is my car
now, Mitsu doesn't own it.  I will be happy to pay the difference, of course.
Their reply was they would not do it.  Should I tell them to go f@#$ themselves?
 
Thanks,
AI Nut
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:34:15 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
Can I drive it fast and launch it with the clunk still there?
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:33:28 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TC Recall
 
The recall itself..-is- the seals, the hardware itself is just fine.
 
And no, under the Law, they CAN use 3rd party fluids, but they would have to meet the manufacturers  specs/ratings.
 
TO say "you can only use ours", under the law, says that they would have to provide it free of  charge.  Its a basic consumer protection right.
 
But then under the Law, redline fluids would have to have Govmnt approval..with all the fancy  stamps and shit too.
 
Take theirs, and swap it later yerself.
 
On Mon, 13 Jan 2003, AINut wrote:
 
> Just took the '94 3000 VR-4 into Satan this morning for the transfer case
> recall.  They tell me they need to replace the seals; have to order them and
> will take 8 or 9 days to arrive.  So what does this mean about the reliability
> and safety of my car??  If there is enough of a problem for them to make a 2
> cent fix, do I still need to be concerned with my ultimate safety, as in the TC
> locking up on us?
>
> Aside: I told them I wanted Redline fluids put back in, and they didn't know
> what they were.  In any case, they "can't" put in anything but factory
> recommended stuff.  I said I don't care what Mitsu tells you, this is my car
> now, Mitsu doesn't own it.  I will be happy to pay the difference, of course.
> Their reply was they would not do it.  Should I tell them to go f@#$ themselves?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:33:55 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
Re:  launching.
 
What do you think caused the freeplay?
 
On Mon, 13 Jan 2003, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
 
> Can I drive it fast and launch it with the clunk still there?
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:38:43 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
Have you checked the tranny mount?  Particularly the mounting bolts, when I first pulled my tranny  I found out that 2 of 3 bolt holes where stripped
bare.....   Come to find out that was the most significant source of
driveline noise in my case.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:45:28 -0600
From: AINut <ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Team3S: need wheels
 
Anyone find a good source for wheels, the 17x8 1/2 that fit a '94 3000 VR-4?  I
need to replace all mine 8-(.  I'm not able to give Satan $600 each for them,
and wouldn't if I could.  I really like the look of the stock wheels and would
like to stay stock or a very close aftermarket clone.  If aftermarket, any
brands that are great and any brands to stay away from?  Last thing I need is
for their chrome to peel off.  Mine aren't doing that, at least.
 
Thanks,
AI Nut
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:45:24 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TC Recall
 
The dealer can't put in anything but factory recommended stuff under a safety recall.  Otherwise,  they are opening themselves up to a potential liability claim.  So they are right, you are wrong.   Just do a fluid drain/replace when you get your car back.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:45:28 -0600
From: Jon Paine <ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TC Recall
 
I haven't taken mine in yet (she's asleep for the winter) but I talked
to the service guys at satan and they said they'd put in whatever I
brought with (I have to provide it though). Of course, they'll bill
Mitsu for the stock stuff they didn't put in...
 
Jon
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:04:32 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TC Recall
 
My issue is with the mechanics.  I hate to take my car to the dealer because I find that their  mechanics, for the most part, are incompetent. I have four cars, three of them needed to have  warranty work done at some point (2000 Malibu, 2000 A4 and my Stealth), and every time I got the  car back it had to go back in because the mechanics screwed something up.  For example, one day I  took my A4 in to get a headlight changed under warranty (it's a Xenon).  When I got the car back,  the speedo didn't work.  It took them 2-1/2 hours of my time to realize that they forgot to  re-connect the sensor harness.  I also took it in for the maintenance check-up, and told them not  to change the oil because I want to continue using Mobil-1 in it.  Guess what?  They changed it  anyway. My Stealth went in for the first transfer case recall (it's a 91), and five visits later,  it was fixed.  A few years back I took my Stealth in for some body work after a car in front of me  kicked up a piece of tire rubber that came down and smacked my front end.  I took it to the dealer  to get fixed and guess what?  They painted the car the wrong color, and didn't realize it until I  pointed it out to them!  My Malibu went in for warranty transmission work.  Nine days later, I got  the car back.  20 minutes later, it was on a tow truck back to the dealership to spend another 3  days.  When I got it back, it lasted a full day!  Turned out the mechanic tightened the battery  cable too tight and it broke off inside the battery.  So although I got my recall in on Saturday  for my Stealth, I'll spend the next few months weighing the risks and deciding whether to roll the  dice and take it in or not.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jon Paine [mailto:ppainej@attglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 3:45 PM
 
I haven't taken mine in yet (she's asleep for the winter) but I talked
to the service guys at satan and they said they'd put in whatever I
brought with (I have to provide it though). Of course, they'll bill
Mitsu for the stock stuff they didn't put in...
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:12:12 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: need wheels
 
I've got a set of 94 chromes for sale --- they range from great to OK. They can be rechromed for  about $125 each.
 
        Jim Berry ======================================================
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AINut" <ainut1@telocity.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 12:45 PM
 
> Anyone find a good source for wheels, the 17x8 1/2 that fit a '94 3000
> VR-4?  I need to replace all mine 8-(.  I'm not able to give Satan $600
> each for them, and wouldn't if I could.  I really like the look of the
> stock wheels and would like to stay stock or a very close aftermarket
> clone.  If aftermarket, any brands that are great and any brands to
> stay away from?  Last thing I need is for their chrome to peel off.
> Mine aren't doing that, at least.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:14:00 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)" <bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
My motor mounts are all but shot, I know that causes a lot of clunking for me...
    -b
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:19:28 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:WAS driveline play NOW Tranny mount
 
Truthfully if you drive our cars hard at all regularly or your mounts have high mileage I would at  least check them for wear and I would also check the tranny bolt holes for wear anytime you change  the clutch as a precaution.......
 
Just my humble opinion, I have a few more since I have completely torn down my car but I will share  them as the topics come up.
 
Russ F
CT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:52:01 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
hehe... not launching, that's for sure. The only reason I ask is because I'm prepping this car to  take it to the track...eventually.
 
But so far, I've not even once launched the car. It's actually been granny shifted its whole life.  The last owner was forty-something (she bought it for her kid who didn't want it) so she kept it...  but wouldn't even cross 3000 rpm :)
 
She gave me the car about 10,000 miles ago. I've kept it under 4000 rpm before the (3x) 60k  service, which was about 2,000 miles ago. I've gotten the courage to take her to 6,000 after the  service, but I still don't launch and I double clutch all the time.
 
The car now has 190,000 miles. Like I said before, the TC has 30k. But the rear diff still has all  the 190k! That's what makes me think the rear diff is the problem.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
- --------------------->
Geoff Mohler wrote:
 
Re:  launching.
 
What do you think caused the freeplay?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:35:23 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
Ya..check bolts.  I lost the rear MM bolt once..would hammer the firewall on launches *heh*
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:15:53 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: driveline play - still there
 
> The car now has 190,000 miles. Like I said before,
> the TC has 30k. But the rear diff still has all
> the 190k! That's what makes me think the rear
> diff is the problem.
 
Then why would you swap out the driveshaft?  Did it have bad joints?
 
Should've measured the rotational play in the rear diff before you connected
your new driveshaft to see if it is within spec.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 20:22:48 -0800
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Replacement during TC Recall
 
Has anyone asked for clutch replacement during TC recall replacement?  Will Satan cut a deal for  less than your soul?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:28:50 -0600
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch Replacement during TC Recall
 
Sorry, they probably won't cut you a deal because there's a LOT more work than pulling the transfer  case to replace the clutch.  The transfer case comes off with relatively little work (just the  downpipe.)
 
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet Silverado HD Duramax
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <rhoden@easystreet.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:22 PM
 
> Has anyone asked for clutch replacement during TC recall replacement?
> Will Satan cut a deal for less than your soul?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:12:47 -0500
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri" <cerri@contractor.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear shock install on 92 SL
 
Thanks for the suggestions, but getting the bottom of the shock loose was no big deal at all.  Getting the whole strut out involved compressing the spring in situ, then just sneaking it out  after disconnecting the sway bar (some sway bar though...).
 
It was a total bitch, and we stood staring at it for a long time, sure we'd missed something.
 
Did we? Remember this is FWD not AWD.
 
Thanks again for all the help.
 
Andre
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 8:39 PM
 
If you're talking about the bottom of the rear shock there has been much ranting and raving about  how to remove it. On my California car all it took was a medium sized pry bar to pop the bottom  bushing loose. I read of some folks using torches hacksaws, wrecking bars etc to free the bottom  mount. A good penetrating oil is the starting point, if you're not reusing the shock they the sky's  the limit on removal. Heat will probably cause the rubber in the bushing to melt and the shock can  then be removed leaving the inner steel sleeve still attached to the mounting bolt, more heat, a  hacksaw or a Dremel [sp] tool will eventually free it. Take care of course not  to damage the  threads on the mount.
 
        Jim Berry
 
PS --- in case you didn't get that far, the car has to be jacked up at which point
          the rear shock should be free from the top mount as the suspension drops
          and still hanging on the bottom mount. ===============================================
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri" <cerri@contractor.net>
 
> How the $$$$ do you get the strut out, after undoing the top two bolts
> and the big 17mmm bottom one?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:15:40 -0500
From: "anscray" <anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Help!!!  Heavy Vibration under load...
 
Team 3S Gurus,
 
  I've had a 3s since 94 and I am completely stumped as to what's wrong with my VR4.
 
   I'm getting what feels like heavy vibration from the suspension or wheels under any kind of  acceleration.
 
To specify, This is purely front end vibration that is more pronounced in lower gears and lower in  the RPM band.
 
This vibration does not occur in neutral with positive throttle or idle, but does occur during down  shifting as well as acceleration.  Engine and turbo performance seems normal..  The car seems to  have normal power and boost levels are the same.
 
My first thought was a motor mount , but the vibration seems to correlate almost to perfectly with  acceleration and deceleration of the engine.  Is this still a possibility?
 
I was planning to visit Satan tomorrow but wanted some ideas b4 my trip to the fiery depths of  hell..
 
Scott
94 VR4
K&N FC,Apexi AVC-R,Borla,Greddy SType BOV,
Porterfield Rotors and R4S pads.
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:20:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Anthony Tse <tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k Tune-up List
 
Thanks Guys! Your replies really make me clear about
what to buy. I can see & hear my alternator belt is
cracking & making a loud noise during high boost. I'll
tight it a bit harder while waiting for the parts
arrive. Hopefully I won't break it right away. Thanks
again! Anthony
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:27:12 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help!!!  Heavy Vibration under load...
 
Definitely might be a motor mount.  Mine were completely rotten and falling apart.  Look at  www.3sxperformance.com  Before you go see the dealer.  Other causes might be in your driveline,  like a bad U-joint on your driveshaft, or a bad CV joint on an axle.
 
I'd bet on a bad U joint though, had a similar problem with my first jeep a few years  back....finally traced it, but not before the vibration ruined the yoke going into the rear diff.
 
Don't drive it if you can avoid it.
 
Best of luck.
 
- -Jeff Crabtree
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:29:58 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Replacement during TC Recall
 
Replacing the transfer case has NOTHING to do with removing the transmission.  In order to replace  the clutch, you have to remove and re-install the tranny.
 
Generally, the only time you can save money is when there is no extra labor involved in replacing a  given part
 
....sorry....no deal to be had.
 
- -Jeff Crabtree
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dashiell Rhoden
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:23 PM
 
Has anyone asked for clutch replacement during TC recall replacement?  Will Satan cut a deal for  less than your soul?
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:34:51 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: PST CFDS... new issue
 
I drove my car around on the highway today, and wow, it vibrates now! Especially at 70mph it gets  really bad. Under 70 and above 70 it's not quite so bad. I suppose that the old 3-piece driveshaft  did a great job of dampening. I do wonder whether the CFDS is vibrating because I have bad mounts  or too much play in the gears...  or if the CFDS will vibrate a lot no matter what. I suspect that  the 3-piece shaft offers more "leeway" for bad drivelines or failing mounts while things are more  obvious with the CFDS. Anyway, thanks to the suggestions I'm definitely going to get those mounts  looked at first. If they check out okay then I'll be checking the t.case + diff next.
 
Riyan Mynuddin
93 stealth rt tt
 
shake rattle buzz whistle shake
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #52
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