Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, January 11 2003
Volume 02 : Number
050
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 10 Jan 2003 17:10:00 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch pedal adjustment?
> My cluth pedal in my 93 VR4
seems to have about 1-1.5 inches of play
> before I actually feel pressure
on my foot. Is this normal or can I
> adjust the slop out of
it?
> Also my cluth pedal seems a tad stiff , Is this normal for the
VR4. OR
> does this mean there is something wrong with the
fluid?
A stiff pedal may mean that your clutch booster is not operating
properly.
Check the vacuum lines that go to the clutch booster for cracks or
any other
kind of leak. Remember that there are a lot of lines that go
down to a tank
in bottom near the front of the engine bay. A hand
vacuum pump may be very
handy here. Also, there is a one way valve in
the vacuum line that connects
to the intake manifold. If you blow into
that line, then it should only
allow air going towards the intake
manifold. If it allows air to go both
ways, then the valve is
bad.
If the vacuum lines are good, then bleed your clutch. Air in
the line can
cause the pedal to be spungy and could explain the 1.5 inches of
play before
engaging. It would not make the pedal stiff
though.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 18:35:47
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: engine miss at 2900 to 3100 rpm
Unfortunately, this is a fairly
common problem. There are numerous threads
on 3SI.org. Some folks
claim that they have solved their problem.
Solutions range from replacing
your alternator, to eliminating any intake
leaks, to new capacitors on the
ECU.
A personal observation: the miss does seem to get worse as you
decrease
spark plug gap. Another thing, I'm speculating here, but it
seems that the
ECU likes to run this RPM range lean (probably for improving
MPG). I notice
that my EGT rises noticably between 2600-3000 which is
where my misses
occur.
Good luck,
Ken
> I have a 91 VR4, it
misses or sputters at 2900 to 3100 rpms. If you run
thru
> the gears it
doesn't happen, but if your just cruisin and keep it between
> those rpms
it misses. The mods Ive done to the car is K&N filter, blitz
> sbcid
controller, stillen down pipe, borla exhaust, supra fuel pump, DN
>
y-pipe, ekg fuel line, turbo xs blow off valve, magnecor 100
wires,
iridium
> denso plugs gap 32, any help will be greatly
appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 21:19:37
-0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: crank angle sensor
Hello Group
This is my dilemma. I have
a 1995 3000GT SL.
The harmonic dampeners outer ring walked on me.
In doing
this it broke the P/S Belt.
The P/S Belt got raped around the crank
and in
doing so it wore a hole in the lower
timing cover. This is where it gets
good.
Parts of the belt were moving around inside
the timing cover, and
caused the motor to die.
After the removal of the timing covers & Crank
pulley
I saw that the crank angle ring and the crank angle sensor
were
damaged. One ear or the crank angle ring was bent over
causing it to hit the
crank angle sensor.
This is my question.
In my examination to the timing,
it appears that the value train
is in perfect time all sprockets line up but
the crank gear is
3 notches retarded. Is there a possibility I might have
bent some values
or push rods. I know this is a 0 tolerance
motor.
Thoughts or feed back would be appreciated
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 14:12:23
-0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: The harmonic dampeners outer ring walked on me.
This is my first
post with the group.
This is my dilemma. I have a 1995 3000GT SL.
The
harmonic dampeners outer ring walked on me.
In doing this it broke the P/S
Belt.
The P/S Belt got raped around the crank
and in doing so it wore a
hole in the lower
timing cover. This is where it gets good.
Parts of the
belt were moving around inside
the timing cover, and caused the motor to
die.
After the removal of the timing covers & Crank pulley
I saw that
the crank angle ring and the crank angle sensor
were damaged. One ear or the
crank angle ring was bent over
causing it to hit the crank angle
sensor.
This is my question.
In my examination to the timing, it appears
that the value train
is in perfect time all sprockets line up but the crank
gear is
3 notches retarded. Is there a possibility I might have bent some
values
or push rods. I know this is a 0 tolerance motor.
Thoughts or
feed back would be appreciated
Sincerely: Steve
Truskosky
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 17:44:46
-0500
From: Thor Holth <
thorholth@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo For sale in SE CT
Hey
all:
I'm looking to sell my 1991 Stealth r/t turbo,
which is presently in
storage in southeastern Connecticut (in new london,
near groton and mystic
if you know where those towns
are).
I have not driven the car more than a couple
thousand miles in the last
year, and would rather see someone else enjoy the
car, instead of it resting
in storage. That being said, here are the
details:
1991 Stealth R/T Turbo,
AWD.
Mileage: approx 125,000
Exterior Color: (arrest me) Red (few small nicks on hood
though)
Interior Color: Black
(leather)
Wheels restored to factory spec and re-painted
by Precision Wheel
New Tires 5,000 miles
ago.
60 k service performed @ 112,000 Miles (new water
pump, pulleys, etc.)
A/C converted from R12 to R134a
(dealer installed, nice alternative
to
paying for a recharge, anyway. See
my
prior post regarding this, as
the
conversion, with freon, cost about
$150,
as opposed to a R12 refill for
hundreds
more.)
ECU has been repaired/upgraded as of last year by
outfit in FLA
recommended by Jeff
Lucius (I think it was auto and
truck
electronics).
Transfer Case replaced by Dodge in 2001 -
T/C has about 5k miles on it
Mods: Car is completely
original, with following
exceptions:
i. K&N
Filterpack/Filtercharger (I forgot which, but had not
yet
even
been through its first recharge. It's the filter
which
replaces the stock airbox and fastens directly to the
MAS)
ii. Replaced stock oil, turbo
and water temp gauges
with
Autometer Phantom gauges. Also added fuel pressure, a/f
ration
and
Air temp gauges (latter is digital by cyberdyne). Air
temp
A/F
ratio interchange on A-pillar mount, turbo is mounted
above
on
a-pillar. For individual sensing of each cylinder bank,
A/F
ratio
has selector switch mounted on console.
This would be a great project car for someone looking to
get into mods,
for two reasons: First, car runs great as it is, so mods
could be put off
until later. Second, you'd be starting with a blank
slate.
Right now, car is in storage in garage in New
London, CT. Included would
be a brand new "Noah" fabric car
cover. Allows car to "breath" so moisture
isn't trapped against paint,
but outside layer repels rain water. By the
way, no rust on car. I've
owned it for two years, and never driven it
during winter or early
sprint\g.
The car needs nothing, except gas. Current
synthetic oil has only 300
miles on it.
Sad to see it go, but hate to see it sit
there.
I can e-mail pics to anybody
interested.
Asking price - $10,000, but reasonable
offers entertained
Thor Holth
E-mail:
thorholth@snet.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 00:57:37
-0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 4WS
I have a 93 VR-4, the 4WS comes on at ~40 mph correct?
Is
there a way I could put in a toggle switch to always have on or always
have
off the 4WS, kind of like the way Active Aero or ECS works?
Has anyone tried
this? What would I need to do? I have the manuals, but I
have no idea where
to start.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
"Don't drink and park, accidents
cause people!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 02:00:02
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 4WS
the 4ws system is operated by _speed_ from a gear in the
rear LSD..I
suppos eyou could kill it by defeating the steering colulmn
sensor for
it..but you cant make ti come on earlier..as its required to be at
speed
to have enough pressure to operate.
On Sat, 11 Jan 2003, Donald
Ashby wrote:
> I have a 93 VR-4, the 4WS comes on at ~40 mph
correct?
> Is there a way I could put in a toggle switch to always have on
or always
> have off the 4WS, kind of like the way Active Aero or ECS
works?
> Has anyone tried this? What would I need to do? I have the
manuals, but I
> have no idea where to start.
> Donald Ashby
>
'93 3000GT VR-4
> "Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 10:53:50
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
4WS
To backup what Geoff said --- there is no electronic control in the
4WS
portion of the car. It uses the front power steering pump and the
rear
pump to force some bushings into a compliance type of
movement.
Check Jeff Lucius's site for the TIM [ technical information
manual ], it
has a writeup on the
operation.
Jim
Berry
============================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 11:04:03
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
crank angle sensor
I have read on this or one of the other lists that
slipping 3 or 4 teeth is not
a problem --- I have no direct experience
though. A compression check
should tell you if there is a
problem.
Good luck !!!
Jim Berry
PS --- no pushrods, that's for american iron. The 3S cars have
single or
dual
overhead cams --- the base has a SOHC [ about 160 HP
]
while the SL should
be a DOHC [ about 220 HP ] and the
turbo
is also a dual
overhead at about 300+
HP.
=====================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
> This
is my question.
> In my examination to the timing, it appears that the
value train
> is in perfect time all sprockets line up but the crank gear
is
> 3 notches retarded. Is there a possibility I might have bent some
values
> or push rods. I know this is a 0 tolerance motor.
>
> Thoughts or feed back would be appreciated
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 14:45:27
-0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: correct part number for gas cap
I am looking to replace the
broken gas cap on my 1997 VR-4 and when I looked in CAPS it came up with
quite a few numbers when I
clicked on the gas cap. Could anyone help
clarify the part number that I need ?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
1997
VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:04:03
-0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: correct part number for gas cap
Here is the problem, CAPS
comes up with two part numbers and both are listed as Gas Caps.
I did put
in my VIN number and here are the part numbers it came up
with:
MB825326
MR342331
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm
Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
"'anthonymelillo'" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Sent:
Saturday, January 11, 2003 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: correct part number
for gas cap
> Anthony,
>
> I saw that in the post.
18-gauge wire and some duct tape won't help?
> Next time out I will see
what I can find. Just punch in your VIN to the
> CAPS program and it
should spit out only one number or call a dealer and
> ask their
judgment.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
> That is the part that I need. The little tether that keeps the
cap from
> getting lost is broken on my car.
> Anthony
Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:15:51
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: correct part number for gas cap
Anthony,
True, but like
someone else said - even a $12 part from NAPA or Pep Boys
isn't outer space
and will make due for the time being. I can look at
mine but I bet the
part number is not visible (it will be on the inside
of the assembly I
assume). Heck, ordering both parts from one of our
"good guy" dealers
who offers 15% list discounts should make it possible
to buy both parts and
return one that did not fit. Maybe ask before you
do this though.
I don't see why they wouldn't give you a refund.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
Sent: Saturday, January
11, 2003 16:04
Subject: Re: Team3S: correct part number for gas
cap
Here is the problem, CAPS comes up with two part numbers and both
are
listed as Gas Caps.
I did put in my VIN number and here are the
part numbers it came up
with: MB825326 MR342331
Anthony
Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 22:49:03
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electrical capacity and wiring Q's
>> .. serious
voltage drop [40A on 10 AWG wire]
That depends on what you mean by
serious and how long the path is. You can
use my wire resistance and voltage
drop calculator to determine what you need
to know.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htmIf
using a 10 AWG multistrand wire with a 40-A load, voltage would drop 0.2
volts over a 5-foot path and 0.4 v over 10-foot path. You have to determine
if that is "serious drop" or not.
>> [tap power at battery or
use an unused fuse]
Again depends. But making a new circuit is easy so
why not just do it? Ideas
are on my web pages below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-battery-move.htmhttp://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-rewire.htm>>
... looks like the generator ... and battery are separated by a 120-A
fuse
....
There are 4 wires that attach to the battery in a stock car: 2
ground (engine
and firewall) and two hot (one to starter and one to fusible
link). So all
positive connections pass through the fusible link except for
the starter
motor. The "B" terminal on the alternator goes through the
fusable link.
>> if the [sensing circuit] fails, does this mean the
regulator loses
reference to the generator output voltage?
As far as
I can tell, it would mean the regulator cannot sense *system
voltage*.
Alternator output voltage is sensed by the regulator through the
Diode Trio.
Looking at a generic transistor voltage regulator diagram (since Mitsu
does
not show us one that I can find), the regulator's Zener diode would
never
conduct (and therefore reduce voltage to the rotor) because high
voltage
would never pass through the regulator's "system voltage" path to
ground.
Therefore the rotor would always be getting good voltage and the
alternator
would output a lot of current. Somebody please correct if I am
wrong about
this.
Now, I do not know know enough about our alternator
to know how high the
voltage would go or how high the current would go to
say if this would "fry"
the electrical system or not. There are various
protection schemes in the
system, including diodes and
fuses.
However, several circuits also connect to fusable link (#3)
besides besides
the regulator's sensing wire. Most of the major lighting
circuits also go
through this fuse. For example, your headlights and
taillights would also be
missing if this fuse (#3) blew.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: Electrical
capacity and wiring Q's
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 11:50:00 -0500
From: "Jon
Paine" <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 19:47:27
-0500
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri" <
cerri@contractor.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear shock install on 92 SL
How the $$$$ do you get the strut
out, after undoing the top two bolts and
the big 17mmm bottom
one?
Can't figure this out and car in
pieces!!!
Help!!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 20:04:38
-0500
From: "Andre and Sylvia Cerri" <
cerri@contractor.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Eibachs for a 92 SL
Does it matter which way up the spring
goes?
It has tighter packed coils at one end, but is not clear which way
it goes
up.
Thx
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 17:37:04
-0800
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
xfer case recall
Hello,
I got the letter for the recall from
chrysler today.
Have some folks forgone getting this taken care of
because their cases
don't leak, and because of what one poster called the
'idiot mojo' of
the dealer, which I fully appreciate! But there could
be liability
associated with not letting the dealer 'officially' check your
vehicle,
even if it is not leaking. I don't want to be on the
hook.
Incidentally my car is a 1991, and there was a previous transfer
case
leak-related recall on this vehicle that was completed in dec.
1993. I
guess this is yet another leak. These transfer cases are
such garbage!
Dave
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2 #50
**************************************