Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Thursday, January 9 2003   Volume 02 : Number 048
 
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Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 15:32:27 -0600
From: AINut <ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
 
95 psi on the lug nuts, always torqued properly.  Tires 33 front, 31 rear, just
like the book says; checked monthly.  I weigh damn near 800 pounds (it feels
like!)  Just shot up to 262 from 240.  I blame the holidays 8-).
 
AI Nut
 
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> AI Nut,
>
> Torque on the lug nuts?  Tire pressure?  There's got to be something
> we're all missing here.  You don't weigh 800 pounds either, right?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 16:50:45 -0500
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
 
If you weigh near 800 lbs, that would do it. The rear tires squat under you (especially when you  floor the gas pedal) and they wear out on the inside. Stop rotating your tires for a while to  verify that these are indeed your rear tires. The fix for that is to install lowered (stiffer)  springs and new or upgraded shocks.
 
I have no negative camber in the rear, but I still have excessive wear on the inside of my rear  tires. And I weigh several times less than you! Okay, okay, maybe only 1.5 times  ;-)
 
Philip
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 15:48:34 -0800
From: John Sheehan <johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: CAPS Part help
 
I can not get to my CAPS at home on my computer and need some help
finding the PN's for each of the two tensioners for the A/C Belt and
Power steering Belt for a 93 VR-4  5 speed.
 
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!  John
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 20:54:59 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Gearbox fluids?
 
OK....
 
I know this has been hashed and rehashed, but can someone give me recommendations as to which  redline fluids to put in the Tranny, the X-fer case and the rear end?
 
I've gotten conflicting info and want to know what you guys think
 
- -Jeff Crabtree
 St. Louis, MO
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 23:13:19 EST
From: GoblinyTwin@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Crank shaft pulley bolt problem.
 
What's the best way to remove this bolt.  I've tried everything.  I've used a
powerful electrical impact wrench and some other tools to try to remove the
crank shaft pulley bolt.  I am wondering if it's a regular bolt or I have to
loosen it clockwise (please let me know)?  Would heating it up help?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 00:00:55 -0500
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio   x35617d1" <x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject: Team3S: 1994 VR-4Wreck for sale
 
Well folks, I finally got around to seeing my wrecked car. I had feared that it was going to be  totally ruined with nothing left of it. In reality, it's not that bad. I would still say it's  totaled but not beyond repair. The only damage is to the driver side door and the driver side rear  quarter. The roof is bent from where it hit the tree but the frame does not seem too badly damaged  if it all (at least that's what the body shop people I showed pictures too said) The only broken  glass is the main window and the windshield is cracked. I have some pictures but I have to scan  them (hopeful tomorrow) The rest of the car is intact besides the wheels (3 got bent up when I  went over the median curb). Unfortunately, like I had said before, I only had liability insurance  on this car. Unfortunately as well, I cannot afford the repairs. If I had the time, space, and  tools, I would part it out to people who need parts but I can't. I'm looking to sell the wreck  whole. Maybe a few of you all who need parts can buy it and get what you need before parting out  anything that's left. The engine has a BRAND NEW short block with only 5K miles on it. The tranny  shifted fine as well. I can get into specifics with anyone who is interested. When I went to the  wreck yard where they had it, there happen to be an insurance guy looking at another wreck and he  roughly stated that my wreck was still worth about $6K because of the new engine and the amount of  damage. I am not looking to get that much, but anyone interested please consider that it has a  brand new $3000 short block and pretty much the rest of the car is still good. Someone brought it  up earlier that they might be interested in making a full-time track car, maybe this might be a  starting point. Well, sorry about the length but email off the list if interested.
 
E.RDZ
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 00:02:22 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Crank shaft pulley bolt problem.
 
Take a 12 or 16 inch breaker bar with the correct size socket.. putting the handle to the right of  the crank pulley lay it against the frame of the car and put the socket on the pulley bolt. Blip  the starter once (not long enough to actually start the engine) and the bolt will break loose.  Tightening it to the correct torque spec without the special tool is the tricky part.
 
Omar
92 r/t
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: GoblinyTwin@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 11:13 PM
 
What's the best way to remove this bolt.  I've tried everything.  I've used a
powerful electrical impact wrench and some other tools to try to remove the
crank shaft pulley bolt.  I am wondering if it's a regular bolt or I have to
loosen it clockwise (please let me know)?  Would heating it up help?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 23:02:59 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Crank shaft pulley bolt problem.
 
Regular threads!!  I used an electric impact wrench with a 3/4" drive on the end.  I believe I  also wedged something in the cam sprockets to prevent the motor from turning while I did this.
 
- -Jeff Crabtree
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 00:25:14 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Team3S: FS: Saner front anti-sway bar for AWD 3/S (new)
 
Is anyone interested in a still-packaged Saner front anti-sway bar for an AWD 3/S?  This is still  wrapped up as I bought it from 3SX Performance a year ago (Jan 17, 2002).  They are listed as $185  on their website (www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp) so any offer close to that I'll entertain  and you can pay shipping.  Let me know if anyone here is interested or I'll offer it to 3Si but  family comes first.
 
For you DIYs there is an install page from Erik Gross,  www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/FSwB/FSwB.html.
 
Contact me off-list with any questions.
 
- --Flash!
1995-1/2 VR-4
dschilberg@pobox.com
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 01:07:54 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CAPS Part help
 
PNC/Part#/Alternate Part#/Desc
 
48088/MD172379/NA/   Power Steering Pump Tensioner Pulley
14338/MD161716/MD318474/Alternator Tensioner Pulley
87061/MB630326/NA/  AC Compressor Tensioner Pulley
 
Here's something that I noticed when doing my 60k service...
 
At least one of the old style idler pulleys had a dust cap on it. The new
idler pulleys have a different design, which does not accept the dust cap.
So don't bother ordering the dust cap unless you're absolutely sure that
it's designed to fit the new style pulley.
 
Since the dust cap doesn't go on, you will want to use a large washer to
take its place. The dust cap served the purpose of keeping the pulley
bearings sealed+clean, and it also divided the surface area of the torque
that is placed on the pulley by the bolt that is driven through it. I'm not
sure how essential it is that the torque is divided evenly, but I'm the kind
of person that tries to leave my car just the way it came from the shop (or
as close as possible). You will see what I mean when you get there.
Basically, take the dust cap from the old pulley(s) with you to your local
auto parts or hardware store, and try to find a washer with a similar
surface area.
 
Finally, don't mix up the idler pulley. Make sure you're putting the right
pulley in the right place. There isn't a safety mechanism to stop you from
putting the A/C compressor pulley where the Alternator pulley belongs. I'd
recommend taking the boxes with the part numbers down to your car, and
printing out this e-mail --at least the three lines containing
descriptions-- so that you remember which part number goes where.
 
Good luck,
 
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
 
Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved" main
and front pre-cat, 450cc injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12 PSI, EK2
Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air Box, S-AFC, Boost, A/F, and
Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP resistor bypass+hotwire, U.P.
Front and Rear S-Bars
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 3:49 PM
 
I can not get to my CAPS at home on my computer and need some help
finding the PN's for each of the two tensioners for the A/C Belt and
Power steering Belt for a 93 VR-4  5 speed.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 00:52:36 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Crank shaft pulley bolt problem.
 
I used a "cheater" bar... along with the (horrible new version) of the mitsu
special tool. It actually was much easier than I thought it would be. Just
be careful whatever you do... whenever you try to remove tough bolts, there
is a potential for injury. you probably know this already, but I'm just
reminding you. I was VERY patient & careful and still I didn't finish my 60k
tune-up without getting lots of cuts and bruises.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:43:22 +0900
From: "Honjo" <zakk-jet@chive.ocn.ne.jp>
Subject: Team3S: S-AFC and S-ITC
 
I installed Apexi's S-AFC(Air flow converter) and S-ITC (Ignition Timing
converter) on my J-spec DOHC NA GTO.
I know I should install A/F gauge in order to set  them but I don't have it.
 Would you show me your S-AFC and S-ITC's setting data?
 Especially,NA owners.
 Thanks.
 
Yoshihiro
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 14:31:45 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gearbox fluids?
 
http://www.stealth316.com/2-awddrainfill.htm
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 7:54 PM
 
<snip>
I know this has been hashed and rehashed, but can someone give me
recommendations as to which redline fluids to put in the Tranny, the X-fer
case and the rear end?
<snip>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:12:30 -0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: Team3S: Possible correction to 60k parts list
 
Well, just about done with my 60k service and was attempting to put the AC/Alt belt on and what  the?  Too short.  I ordered the part from the Team3s 60k parts list in the FAQ section.  The part  listed is MD187463, which I believe is the accessory belt for cars without AC.  Looking in CAPS I  came up with MB879764, which should be the right one.  Anyone know which one is the right one?
 
Thanks,
 
Francis
'96RT/TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 10:15:36 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible correction to 60k parts list
 
MD187463 is the belt for cars without AC.  Your CAPS number is the right
number.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Morice, Francis [mailto:francis.morice@retek.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 10:13 AM
 
Well, just about done with my 60k service and was attempting to put the
AC/Alt belt on and what the?  Too short.  I ordered the part from the
Team3s 60k parts list in the FAQ section.  The part listed is MD187463,
which I believe is the accessory belt for cars without AC.  Looking in
CAPS I came up with MB879764, which should be the right one.  Anyone
know which one is the right one?
 
Thanks,
 
Francis
'96RT/TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:21:30 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Crank shaft pulley bolt problem.
 
Do you have the Mitsu tool or the Miller Tools end-yoke holder?  (BTW, the
Miller Tools version is a billion times better than the Mitsu tool!)  If so,
that and a 4ft cheater bar on a 1/2" drive wrench works great.  If not, you
could try the starter method: 
 
Put a 1/2" drive 22mm (preferably 6pt) socket on the crankshaft bolt.
Attach your beefiest socket wrench and turn it clockwise until it contacts
and is braced by one of the frame members or something else sturdy under the
car.  Get in the car and "blip" the starter once or twice.  That should do
it.  Of course if you use this method to get it off, getting it back on is
fun...  you'll need an impact wrench or the special tool.
 
- --Erik
 
> What's the best way to remove this bolt.  I've tried
> everything.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 14:42:32 -0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: cheapest place to get new gas cap
 
I know this sounds like a silly question, but I need to get a new Gas Cap for my 1997 VR-4.  The  little tether that attaches to the
car has broken and I don't want to take the chance of loosing it.
 
The local dealer is in outer space with their prices and I will not get ripped by them again.
 
Any help will be appreciated.  Thanks
 
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 14:46:54 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: cheapest place to get new gas cap
 
About $12 on partznet.com (Conicelli Mitsu).  That's certainly not outer
space.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 2:43 PM
 
I know this sounds like a silly question, but I need to get a new Gas
Cap for my 1997 VR-4.  The little tether that attaches to the
car has broken and I don't want to take the chance of loosing it.
 
The local dealer is in outer space with their prices and I will not get
ripped by them again.
 
Any help will be appreciated.  Thanks
 
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 14:33:18 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: S-AFC and S-ITC
 
Unless you have a way to monitor knock and air-fuel ratios, both of
those items are pointless.  Even then, a dyno would be needed, to find
base hp, and determine gains, If any.  Especially with stock injectors
and fuel system.
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Honjo
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 7:43 AM
 
I installed Apexi's S-AFC(Air flow converter) and S-ITC (Ignition Timing
converter) on my J-spec DOHC NA GTO.  I know I should install A/F gauge
in order to set  them but I don't have it.
 
Would you show me your S-AFC and S-ITC's setting data?  Especially,
NA owners.
 Thanks.
 
Yoshihiro
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #48
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