Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, January 7
2003 Volume 02 : Number 046
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 13:53:22 -0500
From: Watson David M AB 16
ACCS/DOM <
David.Watson@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Ordering Overseas
Has anyone ever bought or know someone who has bought straight from Japan?
A family member of mine wants to get a hold of a 350ZX (I know, I
know...), but I'm lacking in information. Is it possible? Does
it come with extra mods or better equipment? Is it cheaper? What
does he have to do to make it street legal in the US? I would really
appreciate some feedback...besides, the more 350Z's on the road, the more
humiliation Team 3s can dish out. =)
David Watson
96' Green Base
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 12:17:12 -0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dual Valve spring break in.
perhaps it is done that way to take it easy on the cam
until it is broke
in? 1 spring = less pressure on the
cam than 2 springs.
Galaxy 500, now THERE is some serious iron!
Glenn
- ---
mjannusch@attbi.com
wrote:
> > Question - When installing new cams (regrinds)
> >
and the dual springs, does this need to be
> > done (outer spring set
first) to our cars?
> > What is the break-in procedure?
>
> That's a procedure for pushrod engines. With our
> overhead
cam with roller
> rocker setup its not necessary. There's very
little
> friction on our cams with
> the rollers. Just make
sure to liberally apply
> assembly lube to the cam lobes
> and
valve stem seals when reassembling the head and
> you'll be fine.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 12:24:57 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer Case Recall (anyone else smell something fishy?)
...besides gear oil?
If this has been discussed before, pardon the repeat - I skimmed most of
the messages from over the holidays, but I didn't read them all
thoroughly...
Aren't recalls supposed to fix the problem... (more-or-less) permanently?
So Mitsu claims that the leaky TCs are caused by leaking seals (input or
output shaft)... and the recall remedy is to take off the existing seals
and replace them with ... drum roll, please ... *the same seals*
(new, but same part)! Um, doesn't this mean, if the seals are the
problem, that we'll have to replace the seals every few years?
Whoopity-friggin-do. So Mitsu is gonna put new seals on my transfer
case and then it'll leak again in a few years.
So what happens if you have a leaky transfer case now, take your car in for
the recall remedy, and then after 2 years your TC starts leaking
again? I can see it now:
3/S Owner: "Hi, my VR-4's transfer case is
leaking."
Dealer: "Oh, yeah - there's a recall on that. Just
a
second.... Ok, here it is. Mr. 3/S, that
recall
has already been taken care of on your car."
3/S
Owner: "But my transfer case is clearly leaking, and
that's what the recall is for....??..."
Dealer: "Mitsubishi issued the
remedy for the safety
recall and that was to replace your TC
seals.
That's been taken care of, so your car is
safe to drive now."
3/S Owner: "No it's not. My TC is
leaking. If it runs
dry, then it'll lock up and I might
die.
That's not safe."
Dealer: "I'm sorry, Mr.
3/S. My computer shows that
the recall has been taken
care of for your
vehicle. There's nothing more I can
do.
If you're still concerned, you can call
Mitsubishi NA at 1-800-****YOU"
3/S Owner: "There has to be something
you can do. My
TC is clearly
leaking."
Dealer: "Well, let me see. Wait here."
[45 minutes
pass]
Dealer: "Ok, so you do have a couple of options..."
3/S
Owner: "Great! Now we're talking. Let's hear
them..."
Dealer: "We can replace your transfer case with a
factory rebuilt one. That runs $4000.00"
3/S
Owner: "WHAT? $4000?"
Dealer: "But actually, the new transfer
case comes
bundled with a new transaxle, so let's
see...
with labor... shop fees... tax... and...
that comes to $10,000.02 When can I set up
your
appointment?"
3/S Owner: "I'm not paying for my TC to be fixed -
that's
crazy. Mitsubishi knows there is a
problem
and they should fix it.
Grrrrr...
Now you said I had some options... as in
plural
... what are my other options?"
Dealer: "See that
shiny new Lancer Evolution over there?"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 14:27:29 -0600
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ordering Overseas
Watson David M AB 16 ACCS/DOM wrote:
> Has anyone ever bought or know someone who has bought straight from
> Japan? A family member of mine wants to get a hold of a 350ZX (I know,
> I know...), but I'm lacking in information. Is it possible?
Does it
> come with extra mods or better equipment? Is it
cheaper? What does
> he have to do to make it street legal in the
US? I would really
> appreciate some feedback...besides, the more
350Z's on the road, the
> more humiliation Team 3s can dish out.
=)
>
> David Watson
> 96' Green Base
It's next to impossible. If you wanted to import a Japanese spec 350Z to
the USA (i.e. a right hand drive 350Z), you would have to provide crash
data to the US dept of transportation before you could get it through US
customs. You would then have to install a exhaust system that will meet
and pass emissions. Plus any additional safety equipment
requirements.
I've been on a mission to get a 2001 Supra RZ from Japan to the States.
My argument in regards to the crash data is the Supra was already sold
in the USA. The US dept of transportation already has the crash data.
They said no due to the fact that the Supra RZ is right hand drive. US
dept of transportation has no crash data for a right had drive Supra.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 15:24:36 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Power
doorlock issues...
I need the help of a person who is a real wiz at the electrical systems of
our cars... For some reason my power doorlocks like to click a lot,
usually whenever I hit a bump or something. It's been doing it since
I bought the car, it's like it's trying to lock. Also, sometimes the
passenger door will unlock when the driver door is unlocked, sometimes it will
unlock when the driver door is closed, and sometimes it won't unlock at
all, even when pushing the button. =0) When trying to unlock the passenger
door from the outside with the key, the lock will temporarily unlock, then
immediately lock again. To get the door open you've gotta act REALLY fast! If
anyone knows of a relay or something to check, that would be great,
because after looking around behind the passenger door panel like a bafoon
for awhile, I'm completely clueless... Thanks in advance.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 13:30:48 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Team3S: Japanese
engines and searching for the car - info needed
Hi
I want to buy 3000GT in southern CA and usually people say that the
car has a new engine. I think often they mean a rebuilt one. Anyway some
say that they have engine brought here from Japan. Do those engines have
different specification, which ones are better ? Can I have any problems
with them like passing smog test ? I checked one 91 VR4(without leather !)
it had a Japanese engine(owner doesn't know anything about it) because old
one had a broken crankshaft... Is it possible to tell the year of the
engine by looking at it(at least is it 2 or 4 bolts) or do I have to
get a number ? What the best price can I get for VR4 ? Some people had luck
buying one with a broken engine just for $2000. The sad part is that if
3000GT was driven buy Japanese/Chinese student (don't want to offend
anybody) it usually fits only to the junk yard.
andrius
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 14:36:51 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Power doorlock issues...
It is most likely the switch that is covered by the little rubber boot on
the door frame.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 13:39:27 -0800
From: " William Crabtree"<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Japanese engines and searching for the car - info needed
This is a quote taken directly from
www.risingsunsengines.com. I
looked into this option when I had to replace my motor, but decided on a
rebuild of what I had.
QUOTE:
Let's set the record straight right now. Regardless of what rumors you
might have heard, there is no point at which car owners in Japan must
change their engines or junk their cars. Used engines from Japan are
available because of the unique combination of three factors:
The climate in
Japan causes cars to rust out in very short order, usually no more than 7-10
years. Anyone who has ever lived in the eastern U.S. can undoubtedly
relate to this.
The Japanese Car Inspection (JCI), or sha-ken as they call
it in Japan, is a very rigorous bi-annual inspection of nearly 50 systems
and components on the vehicle. Once a vehicle begins to have serious rust,
it cannot pass the JCI, and the vehicle is scrapped.
The average Japanese
drives his car much less than the average American. Some estimates claim
about 50 percent less.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 17:14:21 -0500
From: "Bedrock" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Power doorlock issues...
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a couple of broken wires
on
the drivers side door jam about 1" to 2" into the wire bundle. I guess
they
were making and breaking contact with each other as well as there
intended.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 137,000+
------------------------------
>When trying to unlock the passenger door from the outside with the key,
the lock will temporarily unlock, then immediately lock again. To get the
door open you've gotta act REALLY fast!
Yup, that's the door locking relay, or whatever it's called.
I had the
same problem.
You gotta stand there with one hand on the door handle and one hand on the
remote, and go "ClickOpen" just like that, cuz it'll unlock and then lock
itself in less than a second.
I got mine fixed when my car got whacked, and I told the body shop that the
lock went screwy after the hit, so it was covered by insurance.
One solution: stop using the remote.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Just got back from my transfer case recall check. It's just fine, so Mitsu
won't replace it.
However, the Mitsu mechs poked around and said my tranny is leaking bad.
Yes, I said, it's been leaking ever since it was installed four years ago.
I complained about it then and at every opportunity since. Satan tried to
fix it under warranty, but their fix didn't work and they threw up their
hands and said, "Sorry, that's all Mitsu will let us do."
The two Mitsu mechs say it needs the gasket where the two parts of the case
fit together. Hmmm. A few questions for my learned colleagues:
1. I always thought the case was welded or somehow fitted together WITHOUT
a gasket. I picked that up here, on this list, a few years ago. Izzat
true?
2. If a gasket is somehow available, is this a job that ANY competent
mechanic can do? Do I gotta go to Satan to get it repaired? Is this
something we can do?
3. If that's so, is there anything else I should do to the tranny whilst
we're in there? (The tranny is 4 years old, but only has 15,000 miles on
it).
4. Since I am on record for complaining about the flaw immediately after
the new Mitsu tranny was installed under warranty, and Mitsu TRIED to
repair it, do I have any recourse with Mitsu four years later? My dealer
shut me down back then, but that was because of the ass**** service
manager. There's a new one there now, and he's checking with the area rep. What
do I gotta do to get Mitsu to step up?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 w/leaky Getrag.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 14:53:48 -0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Rubber Fuel Line Replacement
Has anyone replaced the rubber hoses that bend around
the front of the
fuel tank and meet up with the hard
lines near the rear passenger axle?
>From what I could feel (but not see) the main fuel
line needs to be
ordered from Mitsu and the return
line has 2 rubber hoses, with a short hard
line in
between. Can anyone confirm? I'd like to avoid
any
surprises when I drop the tank.
Thanks,
Glenn
'93 VR-4 with cracking rubber hose option
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 17:36:56 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power
doorlock issues...
Actually, I'm not using the remote, there's problems there too... Tried to
use a different remote and program the receiver to the remote, but no
luck... Is there any way to find out if the receiver is bad, or if our
remotes are those kind that change codes or something?
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 4:00
PM
>When trying to unlock the passenger door from the outside with the key,
the lock will temporarily unlock, then immediately lock again. To get the
door open you've gotta act REALLY fast!
Yup, that's the door locking relay, or whatever it's called.
I had the
same problem.
You gotta stand there with one hand on the door handle and one hand on the
remote, and go "ClickOpen" just like that, cuz it'll unlock and then lock
itself in less than a second.
I got mine fixed when my car got whacked, and I told the body shop that the
lock went screwy after the hit, so it was covered by insurance.
One solution: stop using the remote.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 18:36:41 -0600
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Child seat
We put a pillow in the seat when our son turned 5. It fits better than
the
booster and his legs don't get cramped now.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 19:45:24 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Woes
At 17:12 1/6/2003,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>1. I always thought the case was welded or somehow fitted together
WITHOUT
>a gasket. I picked that up here, on this list, a few years ago.
Izzat true?
If the transmission is assembled like the 1st gen transmission, then it
does not have a gasket. I think that they either put some glue stuff
between the cases or just machine it clean, assemble, and hope that it
won't leak much.
>2. If a gasket is somehow available, is this a job that ANY competent
>mechanic can do? Do I gotta go to Satan to get it repaired? Is this
>something we can do?
You can use an RTV sealant between the cases. This is what everyone does
anyway. But in order to do it, you will have to pull the transmission
apart. This is the same kind of effort as replacing the synchros. In fact,
once you pull it apart, the synchros are just two-three gears pulls away.
If you find someone to do it, it will cost you.
Alternatively, you could find some good thick and sticky goo and cover all
the tranny seams that you can reach with that goo while you are in there.
Also, make sure that the tranny breather is working and breathing. I think
mine is not breathing very well and I can't seem to find where it is.
Philip
------------------------------
>Alternatively, you could find some good thick and sticky goo and cover
all
>the tranny seams that you can reach with that goo while you are in
there.
>Also, make sure that the tranny breather is working and
breathing. I think
>mine is not breathing very well and I can't seem to
find where it is.
>
>Philip
Yeah, me too. I think that's the real problem, and Mits is just jacking me
around. Mine leaks from the top down, where the breather is.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 20:21:44 EST
From:
Rod2414738@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Power doorlock issues...
I cannot yet claim to be a wiz with the electrical systems of our cars, but
I
can offer you the wiring schematic for the door lock system as well as let
you know that the keyless entry system and passenger door lock relay for the
keyless entry is located behind the plastic panel next to the driver's side
rear seat. The keyless entry module is just below the rear side window
of
the Stealth (or the "fake" window of the 3000GT) and is made by
Omron. There
are three relays tied to it if I remember correctly, one
of which is for the
priority door unlock (driver's door), the passenger door
unlock, and both
door lock. Maybe one of the relays is flaky, maybe
the door lock switch is
bad, or maybe there are broken wires as one other
reply suggested. I don't
think a bad pin switch (behind the rubber
boot) would cause the symptoms you
describe with the passenger door lock,
the driver's door - yes. Good luck,
and let me know if you would like
me to scan in the wiring diagrams and
e-mail them to you in JPEG
format.
- -Rod
'93 Stealth R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 23:25:44 -0500
From: "Chris Thompson" <
cthompson@rrinc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: R/T TT for sale
Well, I've lurked on this list for the past year or so and have learned
a
lot from you all about my 93 Stealth R/T TT - many thanks. I've
enjoyed the
car a lot while I've owned it the past three or four years, but
alas, it is
time to sell it. I like everything about the car except the
size - I much
prefer a smaller two-seater, and purchased a new BMW Z4
today. You can
blame Flash! for convincing me that my old Eagle Talon
AWD would be better
for the track, and I've started turning it into a full
ricer for said
purpose.
The Stealth is 100% stock except for Porterfield pads and Motul fluid, as
I
did the occasional track day with it. It has just over 100,000 miles
on it.
Just had an oil analysis done, and the tests came back that the engine
was
in great shape. Mobil1 run throughout it's life. Timing belt
replaced
about 20,000 miles ago. Only things wrong with the car that I
know of is
that the chrome wheels are a bit dinged and blistered, there is a
small tear
in the drivers seat, and a few small rock dings and such in the
paint.
Clutch is low - probably the usual pedal assembly wear, but it
hasn't
effected me in daily driving or on the track. I've never dumped
the clutch.
I maintain my cars well - this car should be good for another 100,000
miles.
Car is green with black interior, and located in SW VA. I would
love to
sell it to an enthusiast on the list who wants to upgrade from a base
model
or a friend of a fellow enthusiast who just has to have one. I'm
thinking
it's worth something like $8-$10K?
I'm on digest, so if you're interested, feel free to e-mail me directly
at
chris@cthompsonNOSPAM.net
(eliminate nospam), and would like to hear
feedback on the current market
value on list or not.
Many thanks again listers for your valuable knowledge over the past year
or
two!
Chris
93 Stealth R/T TT
90 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD
66 Sunbeam
Tiger
63 Jaguar E-Type
52 Chevy 1 ton pickup
02 Jeep Liberty
03 BMW
Z4
others....
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 23:32:18 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Ordering Overseas
Matt-
If you switched the car to left hand steering, which you would have to do
anyway, can you argue that the car is now left hand drive and, except for
the
RZ badge, it is just another Supra?
Mitsubishi makes a 3000GT (I believe its called the GTO SR) non turbo with
AWD and an auto/manual tranny. I always wondered if it was possible to get
the car here, or more realistically, to graft the car's AWD chassis parts
and
drive shaft to an SL here in the U.S. Can it be done? Yes, I know it
would be
cheaper to just buy a VR-4, but I bet Id be the only guy on the
block with an
AWD N/A. Just wondering if it is "technically" feasible.
Mike
- -97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 23:41:45 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ordering Overseas
At 23:32 1/6/2003,
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
wrote:
>Mitsubishi makes a 3000GT (I believe its called the GTO SR) non
turbo with
>AWD and an auto/manual tranny. I always wondered if it was
possible to get
>the car here, or more realistically, to graft the car's
AWD chassis parts
>and drive shaft to an SL here in the U.S. Can it be
done? Yes, I know it
>would be cheaper to just buy a VR-4, but I bet Id
be the only guy on the
>block with an AWD N/A. Just wondering if it is
"technically" feasible.
Yeah, just remove the turbos from a VR-4 and you will have exactly what you
are seeking. You will still be the only guy on the block who has done
that!
;-)
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 23:45:03 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Leather seats ripped
Hi guys-
I have either seen or been in quite a few 3/S cars. EVERY SINGLE ONE has a
rip in the leather seat on the driver side right hand bolster. Many times
there is one on the passenger side as well. I would assume its from wear,
and
though I try to take good care of my seats, I am noticing a rip is
staring to
form in them as well.
I know what's coming, so is
there any way I can save my seats? The leather in
the 97 and up cars seems
different from all previous years.
Mike
- -97 SL
K&N FIPK
D&N Intake pipe
AAM spec "GTO"
cover plate
Infinity Kappas 3 1/2s, 6 1/2s, 6x9s
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:05:13 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Auto trans- no shift
> Does this mean that I need to have the auto trans computer
>
replaced? Or can they be repaired?
50/50 chance it can be repaired.
And you are saying that
> the ECU also needs to be repaired
then?
It would be a good idea before it fails too.(cheaper in the longrun)
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 07:41:36 -0500
From: "Chris Thompson" <
cthompson@rrinc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: R/T TT for sale
That's weird - I wonder where he spent the $30,000. I've got the
upgraded
turbo, 3" exhaust, stiffer springs and shocks, big brake upgrade,
safety
equipment - everything he's got except the fuel management and
front
intercooler (stage 6), and I've got less than $4,000 in the entire
project.
And I should be at about 9 lb/HP. My TT is about 12.5
lb/HP. But the big
thing is - like I said - I just prefer to drive a
smaller car. And I've
only got a half dozen track days under my belt so
far, so it will be a while
before I'm out there challenging the experienced
drivers in Vipers and
Z06's. In fact in a year or two you're more likely to
find me out there
challenging other Formula Fords.
But thanks for the feedback, Rich - I've enjoyed your comments most over
the
past year or two....and BTW, Flash has been extremely helpful (off-list)
to
me...
Chris - also a rich, slow old poop
Rich said:
<snip>
I also have a 92 Eagle Talon AWD turbo, and I came to the
opposite
conclusion as you and Flash. I like to run with the Big Boys in M3s
and C5s,
and I'm convinced that the only way to do that is with a modded
VR4.
<snip>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 06:51:52 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: R/T TT for sale
For about 1/3 what he spent in mods, 10 grand, that is, I could
build
the same car. Right now, my Talon with exhaust, intake and
boost
controller (about $800 in mods) runs with stock vr4's (mid
13's)...
Injectors, turbo, front mount, and the small miscellaneous stuff,
and
11's aren't far away in a Talon. Add the reliability stuff -
built
motor, a good radiator, etc. etc. and you are set for the
track.
Basically, the same mods on a vr4 are needed for the Talon
for
equivalent levels of performance, except the mods for the Talon
are
CHEAPER, and the car is lighter, yet still retains AWD...
- -Cody
------------------------------
>Basically, the same mods on a vr4 are needed for the Talon
for
>equivalent levels of performance, except the mods for the Talon
are
>CHEAPER, and the car is lighter, yet still retains
AWD...
>
>-Cody
I considered all that, too. The cost and lower weight are very attractive.
But
I still think there is much more potential in a VR4, it is a better
candidate for running up front, and it will last longer under high engine
loads. I bought my Talon in hopes of making a Pro Rally car out of it, but
have given up on that idea. I can't afford to keep up two race cars, so my
Talon is just a winter rat these days.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 11:34:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Bretton <
dbretton@volcanomail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
Hello all,
Woke up this morning to find that my front wheel drive Stealth only
has power to one wheel! Right one is working, but no power to the
left wheel.
This is the case regardless of what gear (even reverse).
Car
is automatic.
Any ideas what the problem may be? What should I look for?
Thanks.
Regards,
Dennis
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#46
**************************************