Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, January 6
2003 Volume 02 : Number 045
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:23:19 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: engine/tranny weight
Does anyone know the approximate weight of the motor and tranny when it's
completely assembled? I'm getting ready to put mine back into my car
and would like to know the proper sized hoist to get. (don't wanna
UNDER do it)
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
I have a 92' Stealth RT (Manufacture date Jan '92) with an auto. When you
put it into drive it only goes into third (could be second, but I think
third). Reverse is fine and everything else is fine- but trans never
shifts no matter what. I recently had the fluid flushed and they said it
was a little dirty...
Someone please help...
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 14:00:17 EST
From:
TSI1989@aol.comSubject: Team3S: transfer
case re-call
Hi guys,
Just thought I would share my experience with the TC problem. I
bought my 93
300GT SL in September of last year with 63K. In December my
mechanic
performed the 60K mile service. About two weeks later, the TC
started
leaking. After placing the car on a lift and determining that the TC
was
leaking from fracture cracks in the side, I took it back and my mechanic
pulled the TC out. Basically what he told me had happened was that the pin
holding the cluster gears together (that is pressed into place) had worked
itself out and worn a hole in the TC. I believe this may be a design flaw
and
that this is why so many cars I looked at before I bought mine had noted
that
they had new TC's. I don't imagine that Mitsu will do anything about it
and I
had to replace the TC with another Mitsu one. I would suggest that if
you are
having your TC checked and they pull it out, tell them to look for
wear marks
inside the case.
Tabatha
93 GT SL
------------------------------
> I am faced with a problem. I have less than a month
> before I
ship out for the Air Force and I think that I
> have an ECM problem with
the capacitors (I think).
> Here is my question. Do I go ahead and replace
the capacitors, send in
> the ECM or just wait for when I get back. I
want to drive it before I
> leave but I worry about time restraints. I
don't know if I have
> enough time left. I am not sure if it is the ECM
but
> from the research I have done and the way the board
> looks
around the capacitors it looks like it could be
> the problem. What do you
think would be the best
> decision? Please let me know of your thoughts.
You can
> email me off list to keep it off the list if you want.
I think you are talking about your ECU (Engine Control Unit). Since
you already opened it up and they look bad, just take it in to a TV repair
shop and have them replaced. The shop can have it done the same day
and shouldn't charge you too much. I paid $25 to have mine replaced.
John Monnin has a page with good information on it that you can take a look
at before you do it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 13:24:00 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Jeff
& Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Auto trans- no shift
Did they put in the right Fluid? Need to use ATF Plus not Dextron II
. Jeff
93 Stealth Auto
- -------Original Message-------
From:
altieris@tulsaconnect.comDate:
Sunday, January 05, 2003 9:31:02 AM
I have a 92' Stealth RT
(Manufacture date Jan '92) with an auto. When you put it into drive it
only goes into third (could be second, but I think third). Reverse is fine and
everything else is fine- but trans never shifts no matter what. I recently
had the fluid flushed and they said it was a little
dirty...
Someone please help...
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 21:40:45 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine/tranny weight
The 5-spd transaxle weighs about 125 lb. Add another 42 for the stock
clutch/housing/flywheel. If I remember correctly from 3si posts, the engine
weighs about 400 lbs or so. So that's about 570 lbs.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 22:06:44 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: engine/tranny weight
> Does anyone know the approximate weight of the
> motor and
tranny when it's completely assembled?
> I'm getting ready to put mine
back into my car
> and would like to know the proper sized hoist
>
to get. (don't wanna UNDER do it)
Right around 600 pounds or so for the motor/tranny combo. You'll
likely need
to use the hoist at full extension on the arm to get it high
enough to clear
everything with the tranny on (especially if you don't have
an assistant to
help you guide it around), so make sure it'll hold 1000
pounds at full
extension to be on the safe side. Better safe
than sorry.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 22:17:43 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Dual Valve spring break in.
> Question - When installing new cams (regrinds)
> and the dual
springs, does this need to be
> done (outer spring set first) to our
cars?
> What is the break-in procedure?
That's a procedure for pushrod engines. With our overhead cam with
roller
rocker setup its not necessary. There's very little friction on
our cams with
the rollers. Just make sure to liberally apply assembly
lube to the cam lobes
and valve stem seals when reassembling the head and
you'll be fine.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 18:46:49 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Oil off outside of engine
Can anyone tell me how to get the oil off the outside of the engine?
I had the leaky oil cap problem, and after replacing the cap, gasket and
PCV valve I still get a small hot/burning oil smell after the car is
stopped. I think it is just leftovers from the oil that leaked from
the oil cap, but can't be sure.
I am hesitant to use standard spray and rinse engine degreaser because it
can damage the electrical components and the alternator is in the path of
the oil that leaked. I used the "dry towel" method to pull as much
of what leaked as I could, but that hasn't been very effective so
far.
I don't think there is another problem, but it is not a smell that I am
comfortable with, and I need to get the oil off the engine to find
out.
Is there a trick I'm missing?
Ken
'97 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 20:23:17 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil off outside of engine
Hey Guys,
I use Simple Green to clean my engine its
pretty safe. My procedure is: drive to self wash (power wash) place
engine warm spray with water then spray ALOT of simple green on, let sit
then spray off with high pressure water and repeat.
A mechanic friend of mine told me to use spray on wheel
cleaner and then pressure wash off, it doesn't pit the aluminum.
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 23:38:20 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum
<
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: air flow sensor question
Hi Everyone,
How are you? My car issues seem to have been narrowed down to the
mass airflow
sensor. I got one from ebay - but it's from a '92 3000GT
TURBO - my car is
a '91 Stealth R/T NON-turbo. Should this MAS work
for my car? Thanks again
for all of your help.
Thanks,
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 22:46:52 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil off outside of engine
My method:
#1 get in a bad accident that does engine damage.
#2 Have insurance refuse to pay for engine damage
#3 spend 4 years and thousands of dollars to tear apart and rebuild motor,
tranny, steering rack, and turbos (making sure that each component looks
as it did when it was new before placing back on car)
#4 Permatex the SH!T out of every mating surface to make sure we don't have
this problem again
VOILA!! my motor never looked better!!
Back on the road by Feb 18 (my birthday present to myself), or bust.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI # 0499)
St. Louis,
MO
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Lovell
Sent: Sunday, January
05, 2003 5:47 PM
Can anyone tell me how to get the oil off the outside of the engine?
I had the leaky oil cap problem, and after replacing the cap, gasket and
PCV valve I still get a small hot/burning oil smell after the car is
stopped. I think it is just leftovers from the oil that leaked from
the oil cap, but can't be sure.
I am hesitant to use standard spray and rinse engine degreaser because it
can damage the electrical components and the alternator is in the path of
the oil that leaked. I used the "dry towel" method to pull as much
of what leaked as I could, but that hasn't been very effective so
far.
I don't think there is another problem, but it is not a smell that I am
comfortable with, and I need to get the oil off the engine to find
out.
Is there a trick I'm missing?
Ken
'97 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 22:49:47 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine/tranny weight (FINAL)
HEY thanks to everyone with the answer out there. Got it. Now I
can't decide whether I should buy or rent a hoist. Harbor freight
has one on sale for $169 that would work for me.
Thanks again guys....more questions to come soon
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 21:29:50 -0800
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: X-fer case recall; Bay Area owners
For info, after I had my transfer case recall done, I noticed some clear
oil leaks under my car. Last Friday, I brought the car to the dealer and
they told me that the relief valve leaked. According to them, they cleaned
this and checked the oil level and resealed the TC. I am checking to see
if there are any more leaks.
Does anybody know what the relief valve does and should it have leaked
oil?
Thanks,
edgar
> Yes, I had mine done Dec 18th at Mitsubishi on Steven's Creek, San
> Jose. They installed the transfer case repair kit, resealed and
> changed oil. One day service (I had an appointment).
>
>
edgar
> 1991 VR-4 - 75K miles
> Pearl White
> K&N
FIPK
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 01:25:35 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: NEED HELP FINDING A WIRE!!! PLEASE!!
I just had mine and my brothers done by Circuit City for like $93 on 92 and
97 Talon AWD's. Well worth the trouble, caused by my cheap ass
self-install on my 91 AWD A/T way back when (96?). I never installed the
brake safety switch, so one day on the highway, floor mat got bunched up,
so when go-pedal was pushed, it got stuck. I was racing brother-in-law's
SVT Mustang :). I did win :) but also missed my exit on the highway!
Car hit 100+mph even with full brakes, so I decided to shut it off instead
of bouncing it off rev limiter. I was careful enough not to turn the key
more than one notch, otherwise steering could lock. frighteningly, the car
didn't shut off! had to fumble at 110 or so and try to shut off the remote
start. At the time, I didn't know if the rev limiter would have saved the engine
(it would have), so I should have just thrown it in neutral.
Anyway, it seems that they used the control wire for the injectors as the
"tach sense signal". Seems to work great, and doesn't affect the impedance
of the injector, or operation as far as I can tell. I was working on the
car, and noticed this wire sheath I had never noticed before, followed it
to the injector, followed it back into the passenger compartment, all the
time, thinking WHAT THE HELL? but when you asked this question, I found
out what they did.
PS: Some generic help for finding a suitable "tach sense wire"
The Tach/Spark Sense wire provides the system with the vehicle's engine
revolutions per minute (RPMs). It should be connected to the negative side
of the coil in vehicles with conventional coils. In vehicles with
multi-coil ignition system this wire can be connected to an individual
coil wire, engine computer, the back of the tachometer in some vehicles or may
be connected to a fuel injector control wire. When using the Tach/Spark
Sense wire be sure to turn the dip switch on the remote starter main
module to Tach/Spark Sense.
To find the vehicles tachometer wire with a multimeter follow these
steps:
Set the multi-meter to ACV or AC voltage (12V or 20V scale is OK). Attach
the negative (-) probe of the meter to a good chassis ground. Start and
run the vehicle. Test the wires you suspect of being the vehicle
tachometer wire with the positive (+) probe of the meter. The meter will
read between 1V and 6V if the wire is the correct one. WARNING! Never use
a test light or logic probe to test for the tachometer wire. Vehicle
damage may occur.
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 02:46:11 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED HELP FINDING A WIRE!!! PLEASE!!
This is for a 92 Stealth SOHC base model. Please the turbo and the DOHC
models seem to be very different.
Today ends another 5 hours of looking for the tach wire. I have a remote
starter/keyless entry. Keyless works fine. Starter needs to learn the tach
so I need the tach wire. I need the wire that is AC and voltage changes
directly with the rpm. The spare tach hookup under then wiper motor does
not change with rpm. Thus does not work. Also it doesn't seem to be a AC
connection either. Correct me if I am wrong. All I need is this 1
connection and I can put my seats back in and have my transportation
again. So far it has been in the garage for two days and it is my commuter
car.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 22:48:25 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Auto trans- no shift
Those are the exact symptoms you get when the auto trans computer has shit
its self due to leaking capacitors, better get your ECU rebuilt too 'cos
that won't be far off either.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 04:05:34 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil off outside of engine
Jeff,
What is Permatex and what does it do ?
- -----Original Message-----
From: William Jeffrey Crabtree
Sent:
Sunday, January 05, 2003 9:47 PM
My method:
[snip]
#4 Permatex the SH!T out of every mating surface to make sure we don't have
this problem again
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 08:42:56 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil off outside of engine
Permatex: Form-a-gasket Comes in a tube, Blue stuff that
semi-hardens into a gasket. Here's a link:
here's another specific link:
They make different kinds for different applications. I used the oil
resistant stuff around my head covers and oil pan to keep oil for
leaking
(hopefully) for good. I also used it on water/coolant mating
surfaces. Similarly, I used it on my Getrag when I rebuilt it to make sure
that little F-er doesn't get any ideas about leaking.
For those asking right now, OF COURSE I was NOT dumb enough to put this
stuff on my head gaskets. They make a product that CLAIMS to be for
HI-TEMP apps, but I did not use it on my exhaust components either.
The company used to demonstrate that an engine could be assembled and run
with NO GASKETS, using their products. I'm not sure they still make
this claim.
When I tore my car down, years of oil seepage had resulted in an external
SLUDGE on my motor and many parts of my engine compartment. My ultimate
goal was to keep my motor as clean as possible for as long as
possible. I think everyone would agree, it's much nicer to work on a clean
car than a dirty car.
longer answer than anybody wanted probably, but ya asked
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI # 0499)
St. Louis,
MO
------------------------------
Okay, here's a long shot or two. How many miles on the car?
Have you changed the front wheel bearings? (first guess) How about the
front struts? (second guess) beyond that you're going to have to start
wondering about the active parts of the fronts suspension, like bushings and
such.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut
[mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 1:21 PM
Yes, yes, and yes.
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 06:50:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Bretton <
dbretton@volcanomail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS - Pics of wheels
Hello all,
Some list members informed me that they cannot view the
URL's I referenced. I guess geocities.com does not allow most
browsers to view the pictures directly (IE and Netscape don't work...
Opera does!)
Sorry about that. I moved them (temporarily) to my home
computer:
Regards,
Dennis
------------------------------
More likely that somebody set it on a curb. Look underneath for
evidence it has been scraped real good. You may be able to fix it
from the access panels in the air dam. else you will have to remove
the air dam and unbend everything so the little actuator motor on the passenger
side can rotate freely.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Coffren
[mailto:rcoffren@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 11:53 AM
Hey,
The front aero on my '93 VR-4 isn't working. The previous owner had a
front bra on the car. Is it possible that this messed it up? If so,
what is the most likely cause?
Ryan
------------------------------
Remove the y-pipe and take a look at the upper radiator hose where it
connects to the thermostat housing. This is a common place for leaks
that only occur when the thermostat is open, like the car is at operating
temperature. You don't get a puddle of coolant to warn you, just steam
under the hood.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Thrower
[mailto:repairerr@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 10:42
PM
Mike,
Nope, You got a heck of a leak somewhere. Either pressure
test it, (or get it pressure tested) or throw a piece of cardboard on the
ground under the engine after driving it, let it set overnight, and see
where it might be coming from. Having to fill the jug every few days is too
much. Regards, Dave Thrower
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:15:51 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FS - Pics of wheels
Oh my god, those wheels look really bad on the pics. Only pic1 and pic2
show
some nice chromies but the others are blistering like hell. Dennis,
what
happened to them ?
At 06:50 06.01.2003 -0800, Dennis Bretton wrote:
> Hello
all,
>
> Some list members informed me that
they cannot view the URL's I
> referenced. I guess
geocities.com does not allow most browsers to
> view the pictures
directly (IE and Netscape don't work... Opera does!)
>
> Sorry
about that. I moved them (temporarily) to my home
computer:
>
>
http://66.92.74.232/wheel_photos/>
>Regards,
>
Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 07:50:06 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Team3S: Child seat
Hi
Does child seat really fit into the back seat of 3000GT ?
Please serious answers only !
andrius
PS sorry about replay to Lancer message. I haven't
noticed.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:13:56 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Child seat
Yes a child safety seat will fit in the back seat.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 16:40:32 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Child seat
A rear-facing seat will NOT fit unless the front seat is slid up so far
that it would be uncomfortable to sit in. I found a way to mount my
daughter's rear-facing seat on top of a folded rear seat, but it wasn't
optimal. Front-facing and booster seats fit fine.
- - --
Jim
Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided
lines, red calipers Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 12:50:18 -0600
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Electrical capacity and wiring Q's
I have a 1994 VR4 which I'm planning to expand electrical service in -
initially for a heavier booster amp but also for other things -
lighting, heavier fuel pump, etc. I planned to add another fuse block to
handle the added circuits; I'm trying to decide the best place to tap
power from. I know the typical place is to use an aftermarket battery
connector with taps, but looking at the wiring diagram it looks like
Mitsu only uses a 10AWG (approx) wire between the main relay box and the
battery. I figure that would start to heat up some at any draw over
about 40A, let alone causing some serious voltage drop to the battery
and added circuits.
Question 1: I can see two choices here - I can either run a (couple of)
parallel 10AWG or heavier to back up the existing wire and tap power at
the battery, or I can try to use the unused fused link tap at the relay
box (if I can find a connector insert for the tap). Anyone have any
advice/comments either way?
Question 2: From the wiring diagram, it looks like the generator (and
most of the power usage) and battery are separated by a 120A fuse link.
It also shows that the 'S(tator)' connection for the regulator/generator
comes from the battery side of the fuse link. If that fuse link fails,
since the generator output is now separated from the battery, does this
mean that the regulator loses reference to the generator output voltage?
It looks like the regulator would pump the generator up to full
output to try to bring the stator voltage up to normal charging level
(and fry the rest of the electrical system). Am I just misunderstanding
the way the generator system works?
Thanks,
Jon Paine
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#45
**************************************