Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, January 4
2003 Volume 02 : Number 043
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 23:41:25 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Upgrade Questions
Alright I'm considering upgrading to either DR 500's or MHI 13G's. Both are
basically the same price, I'm concerned about the performance of the 2.
I'm planning on having a street course/auto cross car, not a drag racer.
Other relevant mods will include: Increased CR (8.5), larger injectors
(Either 500 or 660's), supra fuel pump, large sidemount intercoolers (either
Alamo kit or DR kit). Also the engine will be rebuilt with stronger rods,
stronger crank, new pistons, reground cams, better lifters (not sure which
to get), and all the electronics required to make it run correctly (Not
going to take up more space to list it all). Basically I want a turbo that
will be able to keep full boost all the way to 8000 RPM, but not one that
is going to take 5000 rpm to spool. Thank you for the assistance! Donald
Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 02:20:31 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost gauge
In August I had a number of upgrades installed on my '97 VR4.
BOV, Blitz Boost Controller, Borla Cat Back, ATR dp. Being
conservative
with boost till my 60K service (currently at 55K) ........
running gain
of 12 with ratio of 45. 'Feels' about the same as
before. Car runs
very well. Question about the factory boost
gauge. Since the
installation of the Blitz, the factory gauge needle
no longer works
properly. It never goes below zero and shows a
wavering 'boost' most of
the time. Since the upgrades, the needle
position has really no bearing
on throttle position anymore. Yes, I
know from this board how
inaccurate the gauges are when working
properly. My concern is that
something wasn't installed
correctly.
Should the gauge work as it did with the factory controller? If so,
what should I check to determine the possible cause of why it isn't?
Thanks in advance.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 10:19:15 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Upgrade Questions
At 23:41 02.01.2003 -0700, Donald Ashby wrote:
>Alright I'm
considering upgrading to either DR 500's or MHI 13G's. Both
>are
basically the same price, I'm concerned about the performance of
>the 2.
I'm planning on having a street course/auto cross car, not a
>drag racer.
Other relevant mods will include: Increased CR (8.5)
Well, as discussed in another thread, increasing CR cause earlier
detonation and is not recommended in cars with forced induction.
>, larger injectors (Either 500 or 660's), supra fuel pump,
of course, you need them at least
> large sidemount intercoolers (either Alamo kit or DR kit).
Are they large ? And what about the piping ?
> Also the engine will be rebuilt with stronger rods, stronger
crank
What means "stronger" ????
>, new pistons, reground cams, better lifters (not sure which to
get),
What are better lifters ??? What's wrong with the ones we have in the
engine ?
> and all the electronics required to make it run correctly (Not
going
>to take up more space to list it all).
Only one electronic box needed.
>Basically I want a turbo that will be able to keep full boost all the
>way to 8000 RPM, but not one that is going to take 5000 rpm to
spool.
And you really want to think of any 13g ... you're on the wrong track then
for sure.
First think of how you can get to 8000rpm safely with our valve train. Here
you may consider a non-intereferal piston-design so if your timing belt
slips no damage will happen. Then determine how much airflow you want to
have with the fuel the injectors can deliver to achieve the maximum. Then
choose two turbos that deliver each half of this airflow with still being
on the proper efficiency island to prevent high discharge temperatures. Out
of the airflow you are getting the boost that is necessary.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 06:15:12 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: 800+ hp???
This is an excellent explanation and I subscribe to it fully. It is the
high compression pressure that causes detonation, which we are trying to
avoid, not just the high compression ratio alone.
I would add a third engine - the one with the CR=7 and the boost = 6.43
psi. Assuming the same volumetric efficiency of 1, it would have the same
(15+6.43)*7 = 150 psi in the cylinder. But it will have (8/7) = 14% more
air than the one with the CR=8 and (10/7) = 43% more air than the NA with
the CR=10.
The reduction of the compression ratio is limited by the drivability and
the fuel efficiency during the no boost condition. You can imagine that an
engine with a very low compression ratio will not be very fuel efficient
and it will not produce much power when the turbo is just starting to spool
up.
A common step in turbocharging an NA engine is adding a thick head gasket
to reduce the compression ratio and allow to increase the boost pressure. I
would think with the great drivability, that we enjoy on our cars, it
would be a no-brainer mod to add a thicker head gasket or low-compression
pistons to allow more boost.
Philip
At 04:14 12/30/2002, dakken wrote:
>I think people would understand
this better if we talk about
>compression pressure instead of the
compression ratio. Compression
>ratio is static and never
changes. Compression pressure changes with
>the volumetric
efficiency or in other words it changes with how much air
>goes into the
engine. You can have the same compression pressure with
>different
compression ratios.
>
>Let's say we have 2 cylinders. One with
a 8:1 compression ratio and
>one with a 10:1 ratio.
>
>The
8:1 cylinder has forced induction of 3.75 psi from a turbo and the
>10:1
is naturally aspired. Both are 10 cubic inch cylinders.
>
>The
10:1 cylinder will have compression pressure of 15 psi (atmosphere)
>X 10
(compression ratio) = 150 psi.
>
>The 8:1 cylinder will have 18.75
psi (atmosphere + forced induction) X
>8 = 150 psi.
>
>Either
way, you end up with the same amount of pressure in the
>cylinder. You
will have different amounts of air, though. The forced
>induction
cylinder will have 23% more air in it than the other
>cylinder.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 08:22:41 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Turbo Upgrade Questions
I see no reason why 8.5:1 would not be a problem... That is probably the
most common internal upgrade for DSM owners... Going from 7.8:1 to
8.5:1. Gives a little more low end torque and allows for a little
quicker spool, without compromising overall HP or final boost pressure. I
believe you drop boot by a whole 1 psi to keep everything the same, yet still
enjoy the quicker spool times.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 09:49:21 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 800+ hp???
Ok after having been through the wringer (everyone I talked to all said
drop
the compression but never mentioned how to compensate for increased lag
with
the hairdryers I want to use and maintain a usable power band) on this
whole
upping the compression issue, we all keep referring to the
static
compression ratio and keep forgetting that cam duration and cam timing
will
effect the Dynamic Compression Ratio which is what you are actually
dealing
with.
Go to exvitermini.com and read several of the posts by Mario he explains
in
great detail what I am referring to.
For anything larger than a 17G/DR650, you want to up the static
compression
or SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASE the max revs or the power band
becomes
unstreetable.
I personally have chosen to slightly up the compression, increase the
max
revs by almost 1900 RPMS, and slightly increase the displacement
(.040
overbore) I would have preferred to go with only a .010 or even a
.020
overbore but the machine shop dealing with my block found some deep
gouges
in the cylinder walls and recommended the .040 over.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
[mailto:gphilip@umich.edu]
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 6:15 AM
This is an excellent explanation and I subscribe to it fully. It is the
high compression pressure that causes detonation, which we are trying to
avoid, not just the high compression ratio alone.
I would add a third engine - the one with the CR=7 and the boost = 6.43
psi. Assuming the same volumetric efficiency of 1, it would have the same
(15+6.43)*7 = 150 psi in the cylinder. But it will have (8/7) = 14% more
air than the one with the CR=8 and (10/7) = 43% more air than the NA with
the CR=10.
The reduction of the compression ratio is limited by the drivability and
the fuel efficiency during the no boost condition. You can imagine that an
engine with a very low compression ratio will not be very fuel efficient
and it will not produce much power when the turbo is just starting to spool
up.
A common step in turbocharging an NA engine is adding a thick head gasket
to reduce the compression ratio and allow to increase the boost pressure. I
would think with the great drivability, that we enjoy on our cars, it
would be a no-brainer mod to add a thicker head gasket or low-compression
pistons to allow more boost.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 10:26:36 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo Upgrade Questions
Roger I agree with you on the fuel system upgrades (that's a no brainer),
as
for side mounts the DR are listed as being 1" thicker and noticeably
taller
than the stockers....
For pistons just get forged wiseco's in stock compression with valve
reliefs
cut into the piston dome.
For rods definitely forged versions, for a crank I would just stick with
the
2G crank and call it done
He will need to do something about the stock lifters if he decides to
use
anything other than the stock cams for this project (the stockers have
a
high probability of collapsing under high lift/duration situations)
Truthfully for an autoX car I would use either DR-500's or GTP 347's
along
with the supporting mods and run the stock long block with a slightly
raised
revlimiter (7800 or 8300 hard limit) and call it done.
------------------------------
The "static" compression ratio is usually called geometric
compression
ratio because it is calculated directly from the geometric
volumes of the
engine cylinder displacement and the combustion chamber. BTW,
I made a
mistake in my earlier calculations. The CR = (Cyl vol + CC vol) /
CC
volume.
The actual compression pressure will be affected by the
geometric
compression ratio, the atmospheric pressure, the boost pressure,
and the
volumetric efficiency (which is a function of many other
factors).
>For anything larger than a 17G/DR650, you want to up the
static
compression
or SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASE the max revs or the power
band becomes
unstreetable.
Why would you want to have a street car with anything larger than
the
17G/DR650? It has to be either a street car with small turbos or a race
car
with large turbos. Unless your plan is to drive it around on pump gas
and
low boost and then use race gas and higher boost at the track.
>I personally have chosen to slightly up the compression, increase the
max
revs by almost 1900 RPMS, ...
So is your rev limit now at 9,100 rpm?
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 10:20:31 -0600
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Body Damage on my 1994 NA 3000GT =(
Over the Holidays I had the unfortunate experience of leaving work to
find
that someone had hit my car. Of course no note, no person to beat the
living
crap out of. Looks as though someone hit it in the process of pulling
out of
the parking space next to mine. The damage is on the passenger side of
the
car, passenger side door dented slightly from about the middle of the
door
back, and right between the end of the door and rear wheel well is a big
fat
DENT. The side skirt that runs along that side of the car is hanging
off
near the rear wheel well also. From the looks of it, it was a
large
SUV/Truck that did the damage. What I am wondering is if anyone knows
a
respectable paint and body shop in the Austin Texas area that they
can
recommend? I have received one estimate on the damage that came to
1,000$. I
have had friends that have had body work (bodykits) and
painting done
complain about their workmanship. I don't want the kind of
hassle they have
gone through in getting some of their work redone. Any help
or advice would
be greatly appreciated in regards to my situation. I am new
to TeamS3, I
have been lurking for a few weeks now, not sure this is the
right place to
ask this kind of question, but I thought I would ask
anyway.
Thank you for your time in advance.
Philip-
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 11:32:07 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 800+ hp???
Phil my plan is exactly that, I will be running 1.10-1.20 Kg on pump
gas
(adjustable actuators) then 1.6 for the road course and 2.0 for at the
drags
(both of those on race gas obviously).
I have a shift light set up to come on at 9K and there is actually going
to
be no hard limiter (that's the current plan may change if I see a pattern
of
overreving developing by me)
Or it has to be a hybrid running a pair of medium sized turbos and the
trick
is to combine advancements in turbo design along with proper tuning to
make
it feasible.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 11:03
AM
The "static" compression ratio is usually called geometric
compression
ratio because it is calculated directly from the geometric
volumes of the
engine cylinder displacement and the combustion chamber. BTW,
I made a
mistake in my earlier calculations. The CR = (Cyl vol + CC vol) /
CC
volume.
The actual compression pressure will be affected by the
geometric
compression ratio, the atmospheric pressure, the boost pressure,
and the
volumetric efficiency (which is a function of many other
factors).
Why would you want to have a street car with anything larger than
the
17G/DR650? It has to be either a street car with small turbos or a race
car
with large turbos. Unless your plan is to drive it around on pump gas
and
low boost and then use race gas and higher boost at the track.
So is your rev limit now at 9,100 rpm?
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 08:59:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU '92 Stealth DOHC
Can someone help me out I need a ECU for a '92 Dodge
Stealth
ES(DOHC)
VIN#JB3XD54B7NY010689
I would like a used one.
Thank you for your time.
Andrew-PA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 11:13:05 -0600
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Body Damage on my 1994 NA 3000GT =(
I have a 500$ deductible, my main concern however is quality
of
workmanship. I have heard and seen many horror stories about paint and
body
shops in my area. I want to get this taken care of the first time, not
twice
or three times like some people I know that have had body/paint work
done in
Austin, Texas. The car I had previously owned, I had repainted at a
shop
here in town took me for a ride (bubbles in paint, drips, paint where
it
shouldn't have been, etc.). Not the shop I got the estimate from, but
I'm
still very cautious where I take my car for this kind of work now.
Philip-
> Can this not be covered via insurance or is your
deductible more than
> $1,000?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 17:18:56 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
ECU '92 Stealth DOHC
Try here.
I've purchased from them in the past. Great stuff great prices
and ship quickly.
www.stealth3000gtparts.com>
Can someone help me out I need a ECU for a '92 Dodge
> Stealth
ES(DOHC)
> VIN#JB3XD54B7NY010689
> I would like a used
one. Thank you for your time.
>
> Andrew-PA
------------------------------
You'd have found more useful power in stroking IMHO.
I made better torque with lower compression WITH the extra .2l in
the
Celica on the same turbo on the dyno..under 3500rpm.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:44:41 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 800+ hp???
I agree wholeheartedly Geoff, if money was not a concern I would
have
sleeved the block dropping the bore down to like 88-90MM and
increased
stroke to end up with a 2.9 or 2.8 liter and then just rev the shit
outta
it. But that would have required far too expensive block work and
would
have cut into the budget for other things particularly Suspension
and
BRAKES!!!!!
My setup was designed around certain compromises due to fiscal or
time
limitations, (I want to get an EVO 2 months after they go on sale)
trying to
save some money for a down payment and having this car done before
I buy the
EVO and start "playing" with that....
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 10:51:42 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Upgrade Questions
> Otherwise the intercoolers are a waste
> of money as you won't
be going fast enough or for a long enough period
> of time to utilize them
and would be better off spending the money on
> wider wheels and sticky
tires.
>
> --Flash!
Well I was considering upgrading the intercoolers because right now
my
passenger side one has a hole in it from getting hit with a rock, and
it's
leaking pretty bad. And I figured that since I'll have to replace or
repair
it anyway I might as well get larger ones, as they will act as better
heat
sinks then the smaller stock ones. It may not give me as much of
a
performance gain as getting stickies would, but since I am increasing
stock
CR and running boost I'll take anything that will give me even
slightly
cooler air.
> Truthfully for an autoX car I would use either DR-500's or GTP 347's
along
> with the supporting mods and run the stock long block with a
slightly
raised
> revlimiter (7800 or 8300 hard limit) and call it
done.
Ack, didn't even look at GTPro's turbos. So you don't think I'll be able
to
get full boost to redline with a 13G, bummer. I checked out Jeff
Lucious'
(probably spelled that wrong, sorry Jeff) website about turbos, and
frankly
I can't read compressor maps to save my life.
Is anyone out there running 13G's, DR-500's or GTP 357s? If you
wouldn't
mind sending me an e-mail with what your personal experience is with
turbo
lag, and how they handle boost in the high RPMs, as well as any
supporting
mods that might change either of those 2 numbers. Thank you
all!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 12:52:42 -0500
From: "Ryan Coffren" <
rcoffren@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Aero
Hey,
The front aero on my '93 VR-4 isn't working. The previous
owner
had a front bra on the car. Is it possible that this messed it
up?
If so, what is the most likely cause?
Ryan
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 10:04:32 -0800
From: "Haury, Charles" <
CHaury@GOLDER.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Hey Guys,
My 92 VR4 has starting leaking antifreeze under the driver's side
engine
area. I bet that means the water pump is about to go.
Agree? When I
bought my VR4 with 98K miles there was no proof of a 60K
being done. Would
you guys think that I should go ahead and do the 60K
and water pump at the
same time?
Anyone out there who wants to help with a 60K tune in the
Jacksonville,
Florida area? Good Mitsu. mechanics who want to work on
the side? I would
rather not go to the dealer if I did not have
to.
Charlie
92vr4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 18:05:43 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Front Aero
The front Aero mechanism gets stuck relatively easily.
If it's just the
front that is sticking, try this:
jack up the front end, take off the plastic Aero cover. (it's a pretty good
sized piece)
Have someone else inside the car activate and deactivate the
Aero with the
switch on the console, while you spray all of the mechanical
joints, pivots and
parts with WD40.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 13:09:27 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo Upgrade Questions
Don, what do you define as full boost? The 13G's are mostly proven to
hold
15 psi to redline just as an FYI.
for a Autox/ Road Course set up I am going break down my opinion
Stock
Longblock, DR 500's, DN Perf Manifolds and O2 Housings, ATR D/P (your
choice
of cat or non cat), Atr Single shot exhaust, EK2 egr block offs,
Supra TT
pump and rewired, 650CC ball style injectors (they have a better
spray
pattern compared to RC's pintle style injectors), modify you fuel
system from
the filter to rails to allow for a true dual feed (each rail is
fed
separately), a good Fuel Regulator, some form of piggy back fuel
controller
(S-AFC or S-AFR), a set of stickies mounted on your stock wheels,
Porterfield
R4S pads, cryo'ed rotors, stainless steel lines, Motul 600.
Suspension mods are a must for this but I don't want to recommend
something
that will make daily driving the car uncomfortable so suspension is
going to
be a matter of preference/opinion.
I may have missed a couple of things on my list but it is
pretty
comprehensive.
------------------------------
Not only would I be doing the 60K, I'd park the car right now until it was
done. You are living on borrowed time and if it wasn't done and the belt
breaks
you are looking at big $$$$ to repair it. The 60K includes replacing
the water
pump.
> My 92 VR4 has starting leaking antifreeze
under the driver's side engine
> area. I bet that means the water
pump is about to go. Agree? When I
> bought my VR4 with 98K
miles there was no proof of a 60K being done. Would
> you guys think
that I should go ahead and do the 60K and water pump at the
> same
time?
>
> Anyone out there who wants to help with a 60K tune
in the Jacksonville,
> Florida area? Good Mitsu. mechanics who want
to work on the side? I would
> rather not go to the dealer if I did
not have to.
>
> Charlie
> 92vr4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:52:00 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: White
smoke
Hey guys,
I was driving behind my car yesterday (taking it home from
the
body shop, I had someone else drive), and noticed that when
cold,
there's a lot of white smoke coming out from the exhaust. But after
a
few minutes of normal driving, it went away. The other thing
I've
noticed is that there is smoke coming out from under the hood.
It's
barely noticeable - the only way I even saw it is I was taking a
picture
at night, so walked outside with the lights on and saw smoke in
the
beam. It was coming out from the seam between the hood and the
pass.
side fender and from underneath the headlights. I attributed it to
my
egr block of plates, because when I was installing them, I sheared
one
of the bolts connecting the egr pipe to the valve, and didn't want to
go
through the pain of drilling it out of there, so I installed that
plate
with one bolt. Now I'm thinking it could be something else?
Something
more serious?
I have my boost controller set at 1 bar, but it does
overboost
sometimes. Usually when it does, it only goes up to 15.1-3, but
I've had
spikes close to 16 before.
The car pulls just fine. When I saw the smoke, I couldn't smell
burning
oil, and the smoke didn't have any blue in it - it looked almost
like
vapor. I wouldn't be worried at all, but it was in what seemed
overly
large amounts.
Thanks,
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 13:27:50 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S:
> The 60K includes replacing the water pump.
Generally it actually doesn't include the water pump as it isn't included
in
the maintenance schedule. Its a good precaution against future
problems to
replace the pump though. I'd specify to the mechanic that
you want the
water pump replaced to make sure they understand exactly what
you want done.
Don't leave it to chance.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:42:55 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: White
smoke
Hi
A lot of white smoke can mean that cooling fluid is getting to the
cylinders
like bad head gasket or something like that. You should check fluid
level.
But it also depends on the weather. You need to study physics
here. All
cars do that while cold. My vw golf 16v was loosing cooling
fluid and I had
to top in several months time but there was no any leaks. It
also used to be
more white smoke than from other cars when weather was cold.
But I have
never repaired that and I was using it like this for several
years.
andrius
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 18:51:16 -0500
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 93 VR-4 Chrome Wheels - How much? + Firehawk Recall info
Hi Ed,
>Hello Dennis:
>Are you aware of a recall on Firehawk tires:
see
>http://abcnews.go.com/sections/us/DailyNews/firehawk010220.html
Thanks for the input. My tires are Firehawk SZ50's, not the GTA-02
tires.
My tires have never been recalled. :)
>The best way to price your wheels is to find a comparable at E-Bay,
and
>offer it to the members, a link to a picture would be very helpful,
and
>your location, so that transportation of the wheels can be
considered.
Thanks for the input.
Regards,
Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 19:06:54 -0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore"
<
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
I've seen some players that did OK with 72-minute CDRs, but didn't like
the
80-minute CDRs. That may not be the problem in your case, but it's
cheap
and easy to test. Otherwise, I agree with those suggesting a
dirty lens as
the problem.
Hope this helps.
Dennis
93 Stealth ES
+> I was wondering if anyone could offer some tips on the best
+>
CDR's to use for music in the factory 10-cd changer I have?
+> I still
haven't figured out to keep it from skipping like
+> crazy, as it does
flop around a bit.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 20:39:15 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Another Gauge Builder
Looks interesting... All the gauges are true digital read out...
They
are fairly inexpensive as well... I am considering the EGT gauge
they
build, as it goes for $129 on Ebay, including sender, and has 1 degree
C
resolution up to 1000 degrees Celsius...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 21:22:40 -0600
From: "Michael Neill" <
dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Coolant Problem..
I have a '97 VR4 which lately has displayed the low coolant light every
few
days. I fill it with Prestone 50/50, but it seems that the light comes
on
every few days and disappears when the engine temp reaches "normal".
Could
it be that the former owner just let the coolant reach low levels and
now
the engine is sucking up everything I put in the reservoir? Thanks for
your
input. Mike
------------------------------
Mike,
Nope, You got a heck of a leak somewhere. Either pressure
test it, (or get
it pressure tested) or throw a piece of cardboard on the
ground under the
engine after driving it, let it set overnight, and see where
it might be
coming from. Having to fill the jug every few days is too
much.
Regards,
Dave Thrower
------------------------------
Date: 04 Jan 2003 03:19:23 -0500
From: Planet <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Remote Starter, need help!
I installed a remote starter/keyless entry system into my 92
stealth
base.
I got the doors and most working. But I am not sure if I hooked up
to
the right tach wire. I used the white one coming from behind the
dash
where the tach/speedometers are. I was told the white was the tach,
and
this is the only white wire I can find. Although it is only white
from
white clip to the back of the dash. IS this the write one?
Jay
p.s. my service manuals are in the mail. $134 CND, wow
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#43
**************************************