Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, January 2
2003 Volume 02 : Number 042
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Where can I find good instructions for the timing belt replacement. I
have
the CD manual but there isn't enough information on how to adjust the
timing
markings on the crank and the cam shaft pulleys. If anyone has
good
instructions please let me know.
Thanks.
Vedran.
94 Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 22:31:24 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Timing belt
Try the team3s website, and I have a write up of mine on my website,
Alex
'95 VR4
99 conversion, Blitz SBC-iD, ek2mfg EGR block off
plates, KN intake, ngk double platinums @ .032"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 01:29:34 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Leaky oil cap
I bought an aftermarket oil cap from my local Kragen auto parts store. It
was some off brand and I have no clue exactly what it was, but it
works!
My recommendation on Purolator or Mitsu OEM was for the PCV valve. The cap
is not vented, and I definitely would not recommend having a vented cap.
Besides breaking the smog laws, you're defeating the purpose of the PCV
system. If you're looking into a vented cap for any reason, look into a
PCV catch can first.
Riyan
93 rt tt
- ------------->
"Mark Frouhar" wrote:
I'm not clear on what your solution was. Did you just buy another
Mitsu oil cap or an aftermarket one? Does this cap have some kind of
vent built in?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 23:38:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger L <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Paint Color Selection
Allright gang the wife agrees that rather than paint
my new 99 Front end
twice on the spyder, might as well
get the whole car repainted at the same
time.
Say Bye Bye to the Pearl White....
As this car is not my daily driver, I can certainly
spend a little
effort preparing it, but what I really
want is:
1) Suggestions on how to prepare the car for a repaint
2) Suggestions on
colors worthy of this great car
3) Suggestions on shops or individuals to
paint it...
Bob, are you interested in helping out with a project
like this?
I am not pulling the engine or interior or anything
like that, although
I could take the seats out and
other simple tasks like that...
Thanks for your thoughts.... time to get serious about
getting this done
before the sun comes out and I want
to actually drive it again!
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:12:39 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: unhappy on cold start
Just as a point of interest, the 7.3 liter PowerStroke Turbo-Diesel in my
'96 F-250 had a feature that would restrict exhaust flow to increase load
on the engine when cold. The turbo spooled up at low RPMs when it
otherwise wouldn't, bringing the engine to normal operating temperature
more quickly.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided
lines, red calipers Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:19:20 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: horn buttons (was: The end of horn envy!)
Speaking of horns, the stock buttons on my '94 TT are irritating little
clips that often pop out on one side when bumped, certainly not of a
quality consistent with the rest of the interior. Short of replacing
the wheel with an aftermarket alternative, is there a fix?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 11:20:09 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electrical Nightmare
Hello Scott,
I cannot tell you what is wrong with your car. In fact, there may be very
few
mechanics in the USA that can tell you that. Fortunately for you, some
of the
people that have had *extensive* experience repairing and modifying
these
cars are members of Team3S. There are also a few professional speed
shops
that specialize in our cars. I list most of these on the Links Page at
my web
site. As a warning, very, very few dealership or independent
understand our
engines, as you may have already found out.
Now let's try to solve your problem. We need the help of the electrical and
computer hardware engineers on this list. Also, Scott, you should try to
take
an active roll in diagnosis and repair of your car. You will need the
service
manual set - see my Links Page for more info and check out the
discount
dealerships and online bookstores like books4cars.com listed on the
Garage
Page at my web site - and some simple tools like a volt-ohm meter,
screwdrivers, wrenches, and socket set.
I looked at the circuit diagram for the DOHC turbo engine. I see that
devices
connected to the ECU ground
1) external to the ECU,
2)
through the ECU to its external ground (terminals 26 and 13 on a 1992
DOHC),
3) through the ECU to its internal ground (terminals 72 on a 1992 DOHC),
or
4) through the ECU through a switching transistor to its internal
ground.
My concern (and *please* help me out here the engineers on board - I'm just
a
simple scientist) is that the devices that ground through the ECU might be
able to cause an electrical problem - such as an electrical surge - in the
ECU.
Which, if any, of the above circuits are most likely to cause an electrical
problem in the ECU?
The devices related to idle control are many. Here are a few. The throttle
position sensor grounds to terminal 72. The intake air temp sensor and
crank/cam angle sensor ground to terms 26 or
13.
The idle speed control
and injectors ground through ECU internal transistors.
Hopefully, this is enough to get us started thinking about and solving this
problem.
Scott, I suggest you leave the car sit for a while until you or someone
that
really knows our engines can perform a complete diagnosis. Believe it
or not,
the solution will likely be the easy replacement of a (relatively)
inexpensive part such as the ISC or TPS.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 09:53:05 -0500
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Extended Warranty
This is probably NOT the answer you are looking for but it is what I did.
Not many warranty companies are excited about the 3s - turbo cars - but the
dealers always offered extended warranty coverage for them. I
purchased a 70K/7yr zero deductible from the local dealer through Fidelity
Warranty Services 800-327-5172. The coverage was not cheap, but the
service has been excellent.
g8rbob
'99 VR-4 - SCCA B Street Prepared
- ----------
>From: Stephanie & David Walker <
scba@centurytel.net>
>Date: Wed,
Jan 1, 2003, 4:41 PM
> Does anyone know of a company that will provide an extended warranty
> for a 1995 3000GT VR4 Spyder? I searched the Team3S file and found a
> reference to warrantybynet.com. However, they do not list the 3000GT
> as a vehicle they will cover. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:46:13 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Is your car loaded with anything? We don't normally think additional weight
will be carried in our cars, but loading can increase neg camber.
The only time I ever noticed this was inside wear on a Toyota wagon. It was
loaded up every weekend with 4 hang gliders and pilots, extra 700 lbs
going up mountain roads. Never could get it to stop eating front tires,
even with compromise alignments.
On the other hand, I have always been surprised at the lack of alignment
induced tire wear on my 96 NA. I play with suspension components all the
time, and guess at alignment offsets half the time vs taking it in. Tires
still seem to wear quite well, Yokohama and BFG types.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut [mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 10:54 AM
Could 5 different shops have been wrong?
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:02:58 -0500
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 93 VR-4 Chrome Wheels - How much?
Hello,
I have recently resubscribed to the list. I have a set
of 4 1993 3000GT VR-4 chrome wheels that have been sitting in my basement
for about 1.5 years now. They have Firehawk 255/?40?/Z17 tires on,
with only one summer's (~9k) miles of use on them.
I no longer have a need for them. About how much could I expect to
sell them for?
Thanks again.
Regards,
Dennis
"Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a
banana."
- Marx, Groucho
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 12:44:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger L <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
93 VR-4 Chrome Wheels - How much?
Will these fit on a Spyder? Anyone know?
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 15:47:24 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 93 VR-4 Chrome Wheels - How much?
No they will not clear the stock 2G calipers, better off trying to find a
set of 94 chrome 17"s Check the FAQ on team3s.com for what I am
talking about
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger L
[mailto:yiotta@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 3:44 PM
Will these fit on a Spyder? Anyone know?
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:01:06 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
No abnormal loading. Just wife and me (although sometimes she is a
bit
abnormal, but so am I).
Thanks,
AI Nut
Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> Is your car loaded with anything? We don't
normally think additional
> weight will be carried in our cars, but
loading can increase neg
> camber.
>
> The only time I ever
noticed this was inside wear on a Toyota wagon.
> It was loaded up every
weekend with 4 hang gliders and pilots, extra
> 700 lbs going up mountain
roads. Never could get it to stop eating
> front tires, even with
compromise alignments.
>
> On the other hand, I have always been
surprised at the lack of
> alignment induced tire wear on my 96 NA. I
play with suspension
> components all the time, and guess at alignment
offsets half the time
> vs taking it in. Tires still seem to wear quite
well, Yokohama and BFG
> types.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:10:03 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
To peas in a pod then huh ;) Now for the my 2 cents on
this could it be
that maybe a tie rod end or control arm is bent? On my
fathers 99 Dakota he ended up bending a front suspension arm (not sure how
he did it but the dealer showed me the parts) and he got really ugly wear
along the entire inside edge of his right front tire.
Boy am I glad I wasn't around when the dealer gave him the diagnosis.....
The words that came out of his mouth were the of the crayola variety......
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut
[mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 4:01 PM
No abnormal loading. Just wife and me (although sometimes she is a
bit
abnormal, but so am I).
Thanks,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 16:12:01 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Would either of those conditions make all 4 wear that way?
AI Nut
Furman, Russell wrote:
> To peas in a pod then huh
;) Now for the my 2 cents on this could it be
> that maybe a
tie rod end or control arm is bent? On my fathers 99
> Dakota he
ended up bending a front suspension arm (not sure how he did
> it but the
dealer showed me the parts) and he got really ugly wear
> along the
entire inside edge of his right front tire.
>
> Boy am I glad I
wasn't around when the dealer gave him the
> diagnosis..... The words
that came out of his mouth were the of the
> crayola variety......
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 17:17:51 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Nope, I must have misread your post.... I thought you said only one
of the fronts was wearing strangely.... Ah well sorry I wasn't of
any real help
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut
[mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 5:12 PM
Would either of those conditions make all 4 wear that way?
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 17:56:39 -0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
I was wondering if anyone could offer some tips on the best CDR's to use
for music in the factory 10-cd changer I have ? I still haven't
figured out to keep it from skipping like crazy, as it does flop around a
bit.
But it seems to be temperamental as to which CD's will play properly
without skipping or music dropping out. The in-dash unit works with
no matter what I use.
The 10 cd unit doesn't seem to like regular CDR's and seems to prefer
CDRM's (CDR Music)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 18:12:56 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
I have a similar problem with the in-dash unit. CD-Rs that play in
every other CD player I can find tend to start skipping in the in-dash
player once they get about an hour into the disk. I don't have the
problem with pre-recorded CDs, and the problem seems consistent regardless of
the brand or type of CD-R.
Ken Lovell
Green 1997 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
But it seems to be temperamental as to
which CD's will play properly without skipping or music dropping
out. The in-dash unit works with no matter what I use.
The 10 cd unit doesn't seem to like regular CDR's and seems to prefer
CDRM's (CDR Music)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 16:22:10 -0700
From: Dave <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
I've used probably a dozen different brands without any problems at
all
(I've burned at least 500 in the last year alone). Sounds more
likely
to be a problem with your changer. The mechanism has a fluid
damped
suspension, and if any of the parts of it have failed, it
would probably
skip a lot. Or it could just be the lens is dirty, out of alignment or
needs replacing. The changers are pretty easy to
take apart for
inspection to see if anything obvious is a problem.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 18:31:35 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires (again)
AINut wrote:
> potential religious war question:
> For my environment, Tire
Rack recommended 1) Dunlop SP9000, 2) Kumho
> Ecsta MX, 3) Yoko AVS-4, or
4) Bridgestone Pole Position S03. Do you
> guys have a
preference? I'm always looking to save money but not if
> something
a lot better only costs a little more.
Holy War is right .............. everyone will have an opinion.
Operative term ......... 'opinion'. Unless you test
back-to-back on
your car, under exact same conditions, no one can say what's
best for
your car. Their car may be setup well for their tires.
At about the
same level of design, the tires will perform at a level that
will
probably make the driver the determining factor in how well the car
performs. One thing to consider .......... all season vs go-for-broke
all out dry handling. But, again, that is a design difference.
On top
of that, there are subtle differences in handling characteristics of
each tire that one driver finds important while another might find
irritating. Sorta like buying ties ....... a personal thing.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:54:17 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
As the laser looses its intensity due to dirt, it will start skipping. More
so with different types of disc due to the difference in reflectivity.
Nothing to do with the dampening.
Solutions
1 Clean the lens
2 replace the laser unit
3 Replace the whole stacker
system
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 19:03:24 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint Color Selection
Answers to this question should always start with ............ so how
long are you keeping the car & do you ever want to do this again?
Years ago I did this exact same thing. Stripped the car to bare metal
....... metal prepped and immediately primed and painted. Color
sanding
between coats and after clearing the car. From previous posts
it seems
you are not going to campaign this car. If so, you wouldn't
have to
strip the car to save the weight of another coat of paint.
However,
prepping is more important than painting from a longevity
standpoint.
How many dealership paint repairs do you see peeling after
a year?
Best advice ...... take it to someone that paints for the
showcar
circuit and has been doing so for a long time. Ask some hard
questions
about what they do to ensure there is no chance for
peeling/cracking.
They can also show you some wonderful colors no one
else on your block
will have. Oh, that car I re-painted 26 years ago
............ still
looks good. It was a change in color, but similar
blues. I didn't have
to pull interiors. But if you're going from
white to something else, be
prepared to pull some interior.
Dennis -==- Philly
Roger L wrote:
>Allright gang the wife agrees that rather than paint
>my new 99
Front end twice on the spyder, might as well
>get the whole car repainted
at the same time.
>Say Bye Bye to the Pearl White....
>As this car
is not my daily driver, I can certainly
>spend a little effort preparing
it, but what I really
>want is:
>1) Suggestions on how to prepare
the car for a repaint
>2) Suggestions on colors worthy of this great
car
>3) Suggestions on shops or individuals to paint it...
>Bob, are
you interested in helping out with a project
>like this?
>I am not
pulling the engine or interior or anything
>like that, although I could
take the seats out and
>other simple tasks like that...
>Thanks for
your thoughts.... time to get serious about
>getting this done before the
sun comes out and I want
>to actually drive it again!
>Roger
L
>F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 17:19:39 -0700
From: Dave <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
+> As the laser looses its intensity due to dirt, it will start
+> skipping. More so with different types of disc due to the difference
+> in reflectivity. Nothing to do with the dampening.
uh, right. and when the fluid leaked out of one corner of my changer,
it was just coincidence that it started skipping? and went away when
I fixed it? I agree the lens is more likely as I mentioned. The
discs might be different in reflectivity, but that just means the lens is
dirty or the laser is going. I have yet to have a cdr fail to
read.
+> Solutions
+>
+> 1 Clean the lens
easy to try.
+> 2 replace the laser unit
too expensive to make it worthwhile unless you know how to do it
yourself. find a used Pioneer CDX-M30 (or stock "Infinity" changer) on
ebay.
+> 3 Replace the whole stacker system
my choice since it's old technology and in a awkward place to exchange
discs. I guess if you have a single disc up front as well then it's
not so bad.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 19:26:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Castawaykev <
castawaykev@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Snow tires yes again
It finally snowed on Christmas day! Ok that may sound
like I was
happy that it happened but not really!
However, since that day and up until
today it has
continued to snow and get colder. Oh well
it's
winter in Canada. Anyway, I am still driving the
Stealth and
she warms starts fine, a little sluggish
at first in the cold, but not bad,
she heats up great,
defrosts amazingly fast, and to top it off runs like
a
dream even across snow laden roads. OK
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 19:47:27 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
Hey Ant,
I use IMATION 24x CDR's If I burn them
any faster than that it will not read in my 93 VR4 trunk CD changer
(mitsu)..
HTH
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 17:46:09 -0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k
Service Tools
I have two questions on the recommended tools to perform the 60k Timing
belt change with.
1. Are the listed tools MD998752-01/ MLR-MD998767 Timing belt
Tensioner
pulley
socket
wrench and MD990767-01 / MLR-6958 Spanner
Wrench, end yoke
holder the preferred
tools to use?
I understand that Harbor Freight has a better tool
for use in place of
the Spanner Wrench, but have not been able to
find the Harbor Freight P.N..
2. Does anyone have both of these gathering dust that they would want to
get rid of ?
Preferably with the
older style Spanner Wrench
?
Thank you, john 93
VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 18:51:41 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: what CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
I have found Memorex CDR's to be the WORST at reading in car cd players.
Actually the cheapest ones they sell at Fry's Electronics are the GQ
(Great
Quality) and they work just fine, they are also totally blank so if
you print out a label there won't be any printing showing through the
white parts of the label. TDK is considered top of the line in my
opinion and I use them when I'm not going to be printing and applying a
label.
Maybe your cd burner is to blame. I use a TDK 24x burner and have
never had problems. My burnt cd's also work in an aftermarket
Eclipse dvd/cdplayer in my friends car where no other CDR's have ever
worked in her car.
- -Erik Petterson
'91 Stealth
> I was wondering if anyone could offer some tips on the best CDR's to
> use for music in the factory 10-cd changer I have ?
> Any
suggestions ?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 18:11:28 -0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: what
CDR's to use in factory 10-cd changer
Whose labels do you use? Have you tried Kyso labels? Sony and TDK are
both very good ! So is Mitsui. But you need to watch out , they all sell
different grades through different retail outlets!!! The lacquer coat
is different as well as the die type used in the CDR. That's why some
are more susceptible to the environment in a car than others. Sun
light
in general can cause the biggest problem to the die layer
on cheap
media. The light as well as bright high intensity indoor light can
break
down and alter the die burn pattern in the Media. The type of labels
used can also cause degradation if the adhesive is not designed for a
CD/DVD lacquer coat. Over time the adhesive continues to eat through the
lacquer coat and caused weird changes to the data (music). Pressed Cd's
are much more robust in general, but some of the newer Sony DADC are
guaranteed for 100 years after being burned and use Kyso
labels.
Ok ! ok to much info, john
Erik Petterson wrote:
>I have found Memorex CDR's to be the WORST at reading in car cd
>players. Actually the cheapest ones they sell at Fry's Electronics are
>the GQ (Great
>Quality) and they work just fine, they are also
totally blank so if you
>print out a label there won't be any printing
showing through the white
>parts of the label. TDK is considered top
of the line in my opinion and I
>use them when I'm not going to be
printing and applying a label.
>
>Maybe your cd burner is to
blame. I use a TDK 24x burner and have
>never had problems.
My burnt cd's also work in an aftermarket Eclipse
>dvd/cdplayer in my
friends car where no other CDR's have ever worked in
>her
car.
>
>-Erik Petterson
>'91 Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 20:59:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: unknown starting problem
I have been having a bit of a problem lately. It
started out by not
starting and I figured out that the
fuel pump was not working. So I replaced
the pump with
a pump new pump from a TT. The problem seemed solved
at
first. It started fine after I put the battery on
the charger (dang light in
the trunk drained it). I
tried to start it later and it would not start.
I
figured it might be the pump again so I ran a check on
it and it is
getting power and is putting fuel to the
engine but it still won't start. I
checked the #1,3,5
plugs and they look ok but I could not tell if
they
were firing. I was looking on 3Si and some people
suggested the
computer might be bad or going out. I
have not had that fish smell at all. It
seems like
when the computer loses power and resets it will run
until I
turn it off and it won't after that. I looked
at Jeff's site and found the
page where I could check
out the ecu readings on a VOM but I don't really
have
a lot of experience with one of those. I thought about
taking it to a
dealership it check it out on one of
there machines but the nearest one is
over 35 miles
away from me and I don't want to get stranded that far
away.
I replaced the plugs,wires, cap and bug about
12,000 miles ago. The car has
about 140,000 miles on
it. Could the problem be with the ECU or am
I
overlooking something else. Any input will be very
helpful.
Thanks,
Brody
93 Stealth NA
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#42
**************************************