Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 1 2003 Volume
02 : Number 041
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:01:57 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tires (again)
I've heard wonderful things about the S03's. So much so in fact that I just
ordered a set of 275/35/18's. Hopefully that will minimize the front
wheelspin I'm getting off the line with my Kumho Ecsta's...bah...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:11:42 -0600
From: Slayton Shaw <
scshaw2@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 60K Service
Purchased a 97 3000 GT DOHC with 73K miles on the odometer. Is there
any way to tell if the 60K service was ever performed? The owners
manual
has nothing at all written in it. A CARFAX printout only shows a
transmission service at 69K miles under a service contract that was
purchased at 27K miles by the first owner when the car was two years
old.
The local Mitsu dealer where I purchased the car said there is no way
to tell. They warned me that it is a $2,600 repair if the timing belt
goes. If I go ahead and let them do a 60K service what else should I
get
done while they have it open?
Slayton Shaw
Enterprise, Alabama
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 15:45:22 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K
Service
Hi
There is a page under this site how to do 60.000 services. If you change
timing belt and tensioner nothing else should cost expensive repairs if
you NOTICE that something is wrong in time. I just wonder if service is
done by not Mitsubishi dearlers(used cars sellers etc) do the change
anything except the timing belt ?
andrius
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:44:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: fuel tank question
I was wandering if anyone knows the specs on the fuel
tank. I am having
trouble putting the fuel pump in and
I think it is too tall. I am measuring
about 10 inches
and from what I can tell the tank is like 9 3/4
inches
deep. Is there a difference between the tanks in a tt
and a base?
If so what kind. I am thinking about just
making a new gasket out of a new
material. I know this
will effect the gauge a little but how much?
Any
thoughts would be helpful.
brody
93 stealth NA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 18:58:34 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires (again)
S-03's are FAR superior to the S-02's.
The new Ecsta MX's are supposedly BAD-ASS, and comparable if not better
than Michelin Pilot Sports and almost equivalent to the KD's or S-03's.
The ultimate dry weather tire is the BFGoodrich G-Force KD or the S-03.
Though neither are really wet tires at all.
All-Season is more of a "can I drive it in the wet" type thing, not a "does
it go in snow or cold temperatures" thing.
You didn't mention rainfall, so I don't know if that's important, but if it
is, Pilot Sport A/S or BFG T/A KDW are your better options.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:57:56 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Verifying Whether the Timing Belt Has Been Changed
This won't tell you conclusively that the timing belt hasn't been changed,
but it will tell you if it HAS been changed:
Perform as many removal steps (from 60K service guide) to visually access
the timing belt auto-tensioner (aka adjuster). Printed on the top of
the tensioner cylinder (silver metal, faces upward) is the manufacture
date of the tensioner itself. If that date is near the MFG date for
the car, it's likely that the belt has not been changed (or the tensioner was
reused), but if (for example) you have a '94 with 80k miles on it and the
tensioner has a date stamp of 99.05.03, then you're probably safe.
If you have service records for the car, then you can even guesstimate the
mileage when the service was done.
Keep in mind:
* Parts can sit on a shelf in a dealership for a
while before being used, so if the date on the tensioner is 99.05.03, then
the timing belt could have been changed in May, 1999, or any time after
that.
* The tensioner can technically be reused at the 60k mark, and
some dealers may elect to reuse the tensioner. Thus, even if you
have the original tensioner, you may have a new belt.
Bottom line is that if you have a new tensioner and have approximate
mileage records, it'd be pretty safe to approximate the car's mileage at
the mfg date of the tensioner and plan to replace the belt at that mileage
+ 60k. You'll probably end up replacing the belt a little (few thousand
miles) earlier than necessary, but you're still playing it safe.
If you have the original tensioner, then I'd replace the belt to be on the
safe side.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:41:49 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1st gear pops out frequently
> I just bought a 91 Stealth ES and noticed that it pops out of first
> gear about half the time I'm taking off. I'm taking it in
Thursday
> for some service but wanted any input you may have for
me.
It sounds like the transmission is not fully engaging in 1st.
I have had other cars do this and often it is just a simple adjustment to
the shifter or cables. I haven't done this on a 3S car but I am
assuming that there are common adjustments like with other cars.
#1 With the engine off, put the transmission into 1st gear.
Then go to the shifter arm on the transmission that moved and see if it is
fully engaged in gear or not. If it can move farther into gear, then
you need to move the stick assembly towards the rear of the car. If it is
fully engaged then go to step 2.
#2 Start the engine, shift into 1st and then shut the engine
off. Don't touch the stick. Check the shifter arm on the
transmission just like in #1. Also, check if the shift cable is bent.
If the cable is bent, then your clutch is not fully disengaging. You
may just need to bleed the clutch or you may need to adjust the clutch
pedal. If the transmission engaged in #1 but not in #2 then it is
because the clutch is not fully disengaging.
If #1 and #2 are good then you may still have a worn synchro gear or you
are not fully shifting into gear.
Don't forget to check for the obvious too. Pull your stick cover off
and see if there is any type of obstruction that could prevent you from
fully shifting into 1st.
Good luck
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Guys, take a _hard_ look at the Goodyear F1 Supercar tires.
They come OEM on the Z06, and I'm _unusually_ impressed with them.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 19:47:04 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
I was being told my car was bent or broken somehow for 2 years, before we
moved to CS and found Custom Alignment...I had serious toe problems in the
rear.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 01:08:01 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
60K Service
I personally wouldn't trust anyone to do a 60K service. I barely even
trusted myself until I actually did it. If you know anyone that can give
you the procedure off the top of their head, including many of the little
tips and tricks that can be found in the digests... then perhaps
you're on to something. The 60K is a major service in many senses. If it's not
performed, then you can face expensive repairs. If it's performed, but not
performed correctly, then you WILL face expensive repairs. Be careful in
making your decision.
To answer your question Andrius...the independent shops that are
knowledgeable will change the other components with the 60K tune-up. The
ones that are just looking to make a buck here and there may not know or
care about the many other parts that should be replaced.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrius Masiulis
Sent: Tuesday,
December 31, 2002 3:45 PM
Hi
There is a page under this site how to do 60.000 services. If you change
timing belt and tensioner nothing else should cost expensive repairs if
you NOTICE that something is wrong in time. I just wonder if service is
done by not Mitsubishi dearlers(used cars sellers etc) do the change
anything except the timing belt ?
andrius
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 08:26:22 -0600
From: "Mark&Brenda" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1st gear pops out frequently
> Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:27:35 -0600
> From: "rsaylors" <
rsaylors@swbell.net>
>
> I
just bought a 91 Stealth ES and noticed that it pops
> out of first gear
about half the time I'm taking off.
> I'm taking it in Thursday for some
service but wanted
> any input you may have for me.
First check your shift cable adjustments, make sure the brackets holding
the cables are not loose on the engine. Make sure nothing is rubbing up
against the cables under the hood like radiator hose's etc. Other than
that it's most likely the dawgs on the slide, and the gear are worn and
need to be replaced. Might as well have the synchros replaced also if you have
to go that far. If you have a tranny shop do it be sure to tell them you
want your old parts back, maybe you won't have to go through what I went
through. Mark, 92 es Purring like a kitten!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 11:44:16 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires (again)
Aren't they RunFlats? If so how much more do they weigh over non
runflats? The reason I ask is because I am trying to think of ways to
reduce weight, If I put RunFlats on and got rid of the spare tire would it
be a wash? Am I really saving any weight?
Lets hash it out!
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 11:51:30 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires (again)
Where are you trying to save weight? The spare tire might weigh 25#
and that makes for a ton of cans of Fix-a-Flat. Also, if you are on
the dragstrip or AutoX or Road Course then you already have removed the
spare tire.
Not sure what you're getting' at, Vinny.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vinny
Sent: Wednesday, January 01,
2003 11:44
Aren't they RunFlats? If so how much more do they weigh over non
runflats? The reason I ask is because I am trying to think of ways to
reduce weight, If I put RunFlats on and got rid of the spare tire would it
be a wash? Am I really saving any weight?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 12:00:02 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires (again)
Hi Darren,
Thanks for the reply, I was thinking
that our VR-4s are too heavy and I was trying to think of ways to reduce
some of the weight. I don't race my VR4 but I think If I could reduce
50lbs of weight it would make a difference in the way the car felt as a
daily driver.
I notice a seat of the pants feeling that
when I have less the 1/3 tank my VR4 is much quicker and nimbler than with
a full tank. So in order to get that feeling all the time (full tank) I
would want to reduce some weight. that's all. If run flats were the same weight
as our stock tire than by putting them on and then removing the spare We
would save 25lbs, but I doubt run flats are the same as non
runflats.
Anyhow I was just thinking..................
Thanks
Vinny
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 01, 2003 11:51 AM
> Where are you trying to save weight? The spare tire might weigh
25#
> and that makes for a ton of cans of Fix-a-Flat. Also, if you
are on
> the dragstrip or AutoX or Road Course then you already have
removed
> the spare tire.
>
> Not sure what you're getting'
at, Vinny.
>
> --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 11:21:42 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
1st gear pops out frequently
On my 94 VR4, a rebuilt trans would pop out of 1st at stoplights; had to
stick it in there a couple times and eventually stayed. Also pops
out of 6th (still does) when no engine torque holding it in gear.
I looked at the linkages etc, all ok, nothing binding or loose etc.
The 1st gear issue was that the gearshift lever didn't go FORWARD
enough--was stopped by the little metal dowel/stop, which has a
rubber/plastic cap on it. I searched and searched and saw NO cable
adjustment on that cable (the other cable has an adjust)...so I just
removed the rubber cap, which gave a fraction of an inch more forward
travel, and voila'--no more 1st gear problem.
The 6th gear popout is internal to the trans; it has plenty of travel left,
it just is not held in gear adequately by the internal mechanisms. Jack
T.
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
> I
just bought a 91 Stealth ES and noticed that it pops out of first
> gear
about half the time I'm taking off. I'm taking it in Thursday
> for
some service but wanted any input you may have for me.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 12:16:54 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires (again)
I think that feeling is mental. Try and notice the same difference
with a 180 pound friend in the passenger seat. This is more than the
weight savings in 2/3 of a tank of gas and I challenge you to get a faster
time in a 2-mile road course with a friend and then without a friend.
Maybe on a 1/4 mile with 14 vs. 14.2 seconds you can notice but not when
you are doing 2:25 minute laps. That is, unless you are really
good. You will not notice a difference until you shed well over
several hundred pounds or increase the power by a handful of hp.
I put on a manual boost controller set to 13 psi (up from the 11 psi stock
but since it is more consistent it really feels more like a jump or 4
psi). I can really tell the difference in pull in second and third
and fourth gear. If we assume each 1 psi is about 10 hp then this added
about 40 hp. I have had at least 200 pounds of track equipment
(tires, tools, etc.) in the car and could not tell a difference in stock
acceleration, cornering, braking, etc. than when it was not in the car. I
don't know what ratio that is (320 hp is to 4,050 as 320 hp is to
4,250) but
it really doesn't make much difference (12.66 lbs/hp vs. 13.28 lbs/hp or 0.07901
hp/lbs vs. 0.07529 hp/lb). Incidentally, dividing 320 by 4,050 you
get 0.07901234567890123456789 - I think that is neat, but I digress.
If you can notice 0.62 pounds per hp increase then you truly do have a
sensitive butt dyno.
(4,050# = 3,850# curb weight plus my 200# body and 4,250# is the additional
weight of 4 wheels+tires weighing 50# each.)
But when I went from 320 hp to 360 hp (roughly) then this number jumps from
12.66 lbs/hp to 11.25 lbs/hp or a difference of 1.41 (about 2.5 times the
difference you notice).
I'm just sayin' that without something like a dyno or G-Tech or person with
a stopwatch - it is hard to be unbiased when your mind sees you are at a
third of a tank, it is dark, you have 110 miles to Chicago, and you are
wearing sunglasses as you might drive more "spirited" when the road is
empty and this will feel like you are going faster but put a friend in there and
you are more careful.
I've also witnessed a friend turn a faster time at a 2-mile road course
with his 40-pound subwoofer in the rear of the car. Maybe it was a
better weight distribution. Maybe he was tired after 5 laps when he
finally took out the subwoofer. Maybe the adrenaline had worn off.
Looking forward to the experimental tests but don't think 50 pounds will
make a difference (that is, afterall, only 1.3% of the curb weight - shed
400 pounds (10%) and NOW you're talking performance gains).
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vinny [mailto:vinman3@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 12:00
Thanks for the reply, I was thinking that our
VR-4s are too heavy and I was trying to think of ways to reduce some of
the weight. I don't race my VR4 but I think If I could reduce 50lbs
of weight it would make a difference in the way the car felt as a daily
driver.
I notice a seat of the pants feeling that when I
have less the 1/3 tank my VR4 is much quicker and nimbler than with a full
tank. So in order to get that feeling all the time (full tank) I would
want to reduce some weight. that's all. If run flats were the same weight as our
stock tire than by putting them on and then removing the spare We would
save 25lbs, but I doubt run flats are the same as non runflats.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 11:29:06 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires (again)
Run-Flats are a decent amount heavier than a comparable sized/performance
tire.
This is what I do - I have towing coverage on my insurance, so I don't have
a spare, jack or anything, unless I go on a trip....
Back to the original question - regarding tires. If you are needing
an all-season tire to go in the rain, but not the snow - the best choices
available are (in no particular order)
BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDW (not KD or KDWS, these are entirely
different
tires)
Kumho Ecsta MX (this tire is leagues above the
712)
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S (the Pilot Sport is a dry weather tire)
Out of the three, the Kumho MX is going to be the best performer, yet have
the worst wet weather capability. We put a set of 285/35-18 Pilot
Sport A/S on a customers Cobra, going from some S-02's, and he is in love
with the Sports. According to him, the best wet weather tire he's
ever owned on any car (and he has the Cobra, a Trans Am, and a 300 ZX). He
has been slowly putting the A/S's on all his cars which is not cheap by
any means.
Any more questions? Feel Free to ask... But, it sounds like
Tire Rack misled you a little... You don't need an all season tire
to drive in the cold, but you do need one to drive in the rain...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vinny
Sent: Wednesday, January 01,
2003 11:00 AM
Hi Darren,
Thanks for the reply, I was thinking
that our VR-4s are too heavy and I was trying to think of ways to reduce
some of the weight. I don't race my VR4 but I think If I could reduce
50lbs of weight it would make a difference in the way the car felt as a
daily driver.
I notice a seat of the pants feeling that
when I have less the 1/3 tank my VR4 is much quicker and nimbler than with
a full tank. So in order to get that feeling all the time (full tank) I
would want to reduce some weight. that's all. If run flats were the same weight
as our stock tire than by putting them on and then removing the spare We
would save 25lbs, but I doubt run flats are the same as non
runflats.
Anyhow I was just thinking..................
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 05:01:37 -0600
From: "Scott Savoie" <
scott_savoie@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Electrical Nightmare
Hello guys,
I have a terrible problem. I purchased a 1992 3000 GT VR-4 in
September and have only got to enjoy it about a week or so. It has
been in the mechanic shop the rest of the time. Let me give you a
little history on my situation.
The previous owner replaced the engine with a rebuilt unit from Jasper
Engines and it still has less than 1000 miles on it. One of the
turbos was rebuilt and the other checked out ok. It also wore new
tires and a new paint job. Interior and exterior seemed to be in excellent
shape. The only thing I could find wrong was a slight noise coming
from the transmission while it idled in neutral with the clutch disengaged
(input shaft bearing possibly). Also, it had a slight surge around
2,500 rpm's when the car was cold. Once it warmed up, no problem was
noticed. The SRS light was also lit, and the active aero didn't
work.
These seemed simple enough problems, so I purchased the car. Once I
got the car home, the idle tensioner came apart. My mechanic, who
comes highly recommended for foreign cars, replaced it and said that it
had not been tightened upon installation. Next, the surge came back.
This could be described as someone not knowing how to drive a standard
transmission, the jump that would occur when they tried to take off.
It got terribly violent, to the point where I thought something would
break. I had an appointment to have an aftermarket alarm installed that
morning, so when the guy was done with the installation I brought it to my
mechanic again. The car had warmed up by the time he drove it so it was
not as bad as it was earlier. Still, it was running terrible. He
drove the car and said it seemed like an injector problem. He kept the car
3 weeks and changed 2 injectors, fuel filter and installed NGK plugs
(about $700). The car ran great!
I drove it home and parked it for 3 days while I was working out of town.
When I returned, excited to go for a spin, the car started to jump again.
The same problem. I brought it back to my mechanic and told him of
the same problem. I asked him if it was possible that this was an
electrical problem. He said no. He said it was trash in the fuel
tank and it needed to be replaced. So, 3 weeks later and another
$1000, my car was ready again.
I picked the car up that afternoon around 4 pm. I didn't make 2
blocks and there was the dreaded surge again! Not as bad, but still
there. I turned around and went straight back to the mechanic.
He said it must be some bad fuel in the line and told me to drive it and it
would clear up in a few miles. Once again, I asked if this might be
an electrical problem. He said no. I drove the car about 40 miles
and could still feel it missing even at highway speeds. The
passenger couldn't feel it, but I had my hand on the shifter and could feel the
miss.
A few hours later, I decided to take it out again. I got on the
interstate and got it up to 75 and settled in for a nice cruise.
About 2 miles later I lost power, the tach dropped to zero and the car was
filled with a terrible burnt smell. The computer had shorted out!
I sent the computer off to some great guys in Florida that rebuild
computers. They called me when they received it and informed me of
the damage. It was burnt beyond repair. They also told me what
I kind of figured, somewhere, there was a terrible short. Now here is the
problem! I don't know who to bring this car to for the electrical
troubleshooting. I have a new computer, but don't want to fry that
one to. I don't mind trailering the car somewhere if someone knows of
a great auto electrical troubleshooter. I live around Lafayette,
Louisiana. I am at the end of my rope guys. Any help you may
have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch!
Scott Savoie
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 13:05:14 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Electrical Nightmare
Sounds like when I had a bad connection at my MAS unit... After a few
minutes of cleaning the connections, everything was back to normal... The
surging, that is.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 14:31:34 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: now gas weight
> In the 3000 now, I only drive with 2 or 3 gallons
> in
autocross.
Your courses must have pretty short corners - my car loses power from lack
of fuel during hard cornering if I have less than about 1/4 tank on longer
sweeping turns. I suppose part of it is that my upgraded fuel pump
pumps the fuel out of the slosh cup in the tank quicker than a stock pump
would.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 15:45:40 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: now gas weight, was Tires (again)
If I have less than 1/4 tank on a road course it gets treacherous.
When I have 1/8 of a tank and take a hard left turn (entering the Keyhole
at Mid-Ohio from turn 3) I get a power loss as there is a drop in gas
being fed into the fuel pump and when I straighten out after the hard
left-hander I get a surge of gas hitting the pump and I surge forward. Not
advisable. I do not do road course work with less than 1/4 tank of
gas. I have not done AutoX since the first year I had it and don't
wish to again until the car is properly prepped for such work.
I assume you have been removing the passenger seat for all AutoX runs,
correct? This saves 40 pounds and is equivalent to about 6.5 gallons
of gas. Remove the rear seat for some more savings. Again, the
50 pounds in weight saving will not make a difference to a 4,000 pound car for
only a 40-second run when the big winner in your class is a TT Supra
turning a 34-second time (I just happened to have the unfortunate luck to
run head-to-head with the first SM National Champ Kent Rafferty and would
prefer not to take off the Big Reds and drop to Street Prepared category so
I have the Big Reds [worthless for AutoX] which launches me smack into the
Street Mod category).
This is, however, a tech list and open tracking can be addressed on another
list or with me privately. That is why I have geared my car toward
the road course than the 1/4 or AutoX course.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 15:07:07 -0600
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Electrical Nightmare
When I've replaced computers in other cars, the rebuilt unit came with a
paper that showed what all the resistance readings should be for each
terminal that plugs in to the ECU. he warranty wouldn't be valid
unless I wrote each value in.
If you can get your hands on these readings, check them.
Rich
> Hello guys,
>
> I have a terrible problem.........
>
Any help you may have would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks a
bunch!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 14:41:17 -0700
From: Stephanie & David Walker
<
scba@centurytel.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Extended Warranty
Does anyone know of a company that will provide an extended warranty for a
1995 3000GT VR4 Spyder? I searched the Team3S file and found a reference
to warrantybynet.com. However, they do not list the 3000GT as a vehicle
they will cover. Thanks.
David
------------------------------
No..they are not runflats.
They're _really_ surprising me in the rain as well.
On Wed, 1 Jan 2003, Vinny wrote:
> Aren't they RunFlats? If so how much more do they weigh over non
> runflats? The reason I ask is because I am trying to think of ways to
> reduce weight, If I put RunFlats on and got rid of the spare tire
> would it be a wash? Am I really saving any weight?
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#41
**************************************