Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, December 31 2002 Volume
02 : Number 040
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:17:47 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: unhappy on cold start
Just an idea but you might measure the voltage of the battery and its
quality. A bad batt or bad connections cause more odd problems than I ever
thought of.
> Hello all,
>
> Sorry to interrupt the amazing 800hp
discussion. I wish I had
> something to add... but it's really not my
place :( I sure am learning
> a thing or two
:)
>
> Ever
since my 60k tuneup and all my mods, I've been experiencing an
> "unhappy
car" on cold start. Until the engine warms up, it will lose
> power for a
split second once in awhile.
>
> I'm driving down the street and I
suddenly lose power momentarily.
> When I do, I also hear an audible
"click". The click is probably my
> driveshaft carrier bearings since
when the engine suddenly stops
> delivering power for that split second,
the driveline snaps back. This
> problem is much more pronounced if the
car's been sitting for more
> than a week and gets even worse if it's
cold outside. The good news is
> that after the car warms up it always
runs like a dream. I have all
> the below mods plus coppers gapped @
.035"
>
> One more thing to note...
> On my cold starts, I
give very little throttle until she warms up. I
> keep it under 10%
throttle and under 2500 rpm (yes, the drivers
> around me get pretty mad).
But I do this to get more life out of
> my engine. I suppose if I had a
heavier foot on cold start then
> it would help with the problem. I'd
rather not do that though.
>
> ...still, I don't think the car
should be acting this way. Anyone have
> any suggestions or experience a
similar problem on cold starts?
>
> Riyan Mynuddin
> 93
Stealth RT TT
>
> Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot
Catback, "Improved"
> main and front pre-cat, 450cc injectors; cleaned
and matched, MBC @ 12
> PSI, EK2 Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P.
Cold Air Box, S-AFC,
> Boost, A/F, and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34
Bypass Valve,
> FP resistor bypass+hotwire, U.P. Front and Rear
S-Bars
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:20:21 -0600
From: "Michael Neill" <
dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: unhappy on cold start
My '97 VR-4 has the same problem when it is cold, when engine temp is at
normal, she runs like a dream. You have brought up an excellent point
about the battery, it seems like mine has a tougher time cranking the
engine and when I use the rear window defogger, the lights really dim. I
will definitely check the battery voltage.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 17:27:31 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: unhappy on cold start
Is there anything "wrong" with revving the car when it is cold to get it to
warm up faster? Sure there are some "bad" things that might occur
but is there anything wrong with letting/making it idle higher (whether at
2k RPM, 3k, 5k, or even 6k) until it warms up?
I generally like my water temps to be at least operational (180 F) before
leaving the parking lot as this gets the oil and other stuff warmed some
but shifting into the gears is still difficult when all the fluid is cold
but driving in first gear for the opening mile (about eight blocks of stop
and go so that is easy to do) seems to get the fluid a little more friendly so
shifts into second and third are then no problem.
But letting it idle by itself takes up to 30 minutes when it is cold but
can be sped up to less than 5 minutes if it idles fast. Anything
really wrong with that being allowed to happen - Riyan, you talk about
prolonging engine life by taking it easy on it when cold - is that really
something that will prolong it and if so by how much?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ 108k
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 14:40:53 -0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: Spark
Plug's and Wires
I am in need of new plugs and wires as part of a 60k service for a 93
VR-4. I know most people go with the 8.5 Magnacor wires and many
different plugs. My questions is for those who have tried the Taylor,
Nology or Accel Thundersport wires....any comments? Also I have been
told that the Bosch Platinum 4's are not good for our cars but the Plat.
single or NGK plat. single are. I have the Nology on another type of car
and they seem to be great, no great power increase, but good compared to
an old bosch wire set.
I have very limited upgrades so far, but want a
wire/ plug setup to
support further upgrades.
I have started to go
through the digest these items and for the special
tools needed for the
timing belt change and have found many comments on
plugs/wires, but just
want a recent update.Low cost source on the tools
would be great
also!
Thank you very much!!! John
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 17:46:09 -0500
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaky oil cap
I'm not clear on what your solution was. Did you just buy another
Mitsu oil cap or an aftermarket one? Does this cap have some kind of
vent built in?
thanks
Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> I never did see the original post regarding
the leaky oil cap. But I
> did see the response, and here's what I have
to say:
>
> I had the leaky oil cap. I replaced my PCV valve and it
didn't help,
> although PCV valve is something that you want to consider.
It sure is
> pretty cheap and easy to replace too. Don't buy FRAM PCV
valves
> though. I've heard that sometimes they put the spring in
> backwards...yikes! Alternatives: Purolator, Mitsu OEM
>
>
Onward.
>
> My leak didn't go away until I bought a new oil cap.
I'd urge you to
> fix that cap soon, because at least if you have a TT
car (I don't know
> about the other models)... the oil drops straight
into your
> alternator! Yes, it drips down the valve cover and into the
> alternator. After seeing this charred gunk all over the alternator
> casing and inside, I decided to replace mine for preventative
>
maintenance at my 60k tune-up even though it still worked. Don't get
>
yourself into that position. I spent a hundred something bucks just
>
because the previous owner of my car didn't fix that oil leak. I'm not
>
saying that I needed to spend that money, but I sure don't want a fat
>
question mark over my head...that I may be stranded any day when my
>
alternator fails.
>
> 'nuff said.
>
> Riyan
Mynuddin
> 93 Stealth RT TT
>
> Stillen Intake, Stillen
Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved"
> main and front pre-cat,
450cc injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12
> PSI, EK2 Fuel Rail mod,
EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air Box, S-AFC,
> Boost, A/F, and Fuel PSI
gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP
> resistor bypass+hotwire, U.P.
Front and Rear S-Bars
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 14:59:33 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaky oil cap
Some people have had good luck by using two oil caps gaskets instead of
just one. An oil cap gasket is like a buck from the
dealer...probably worth a try. :)
- - Brian
------------------------------
I've got a new clutch in the mail. I wonder how much labor above and
beyond the t-case inspection it would be to have the dealership stick in
the clutch?
------------------------------
My brain just turned on, and I remembered that the tranny is the hard part
of changing the clutch, not the transfer case. Ignore my previous
semi-rhetorical question. :)
> I've got a new clutch in
the mail. I wonder how much labor
> above and beyond
> the
t-case inspection it would be to have the dealership stick in the
>
clutch?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:13:21 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spark Plug's and Wires
I run the Accel Wires and Denso Iridium IK24's. No spark issues,
they
work great for me. Been running the Accel wires for about 8-months
now
and the IK24's for about 4 days (had Iridiums of a slightly hotter
range
in there before). ;) No complaints, they both work great.
- -James
95 Green VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan [mailto:johns@kyso.com]
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 2:41 PM
I am in need of new plugs and wires as part of a 60k service for a 93
VR-4. I know most people go with the 8.5 Magnacor wires and many
different plugs. My questions is for those who have tried the Taylor,
Nology or Accel Thundersport wires....any comments? Also I have been
told that the Bosch Platinum 4's are not good for our cars but the
Plat.
single or NGK plat. single are. I have the Nology on another type of
car
and they seem to be great, no great power increase, but good compared
to
an old bosch wire set.
I have very limited upgrades so far, but want a
wire/ plug setup to
support further upgrades.
I have started to go
through the digest these items and for the special
tools needed for the
timing belt change and have found many comments on
plugs/wires, but just
want a recent update.Low cost source on the tools
would be great
also!
Thank you very much!!! John
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:14:54 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 800+ hp???
Won't the valves float just a tad at 9K ?
What cams and valve train are
you using ?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:22
AM
Not really, just shot-peen, deep cryo treat, and 4 way balance the
rods
(crowers). Then after that you just have the rotating assembly
balanced
(now that part is going to be expensive)
If I do a stage 2 motor for this car (not likely) I am going to aim
for
10K and run that on stock bore (to help reduce the likely hood of con
rod
stretch)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 18:56:39 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaky oil cap
There is a radiator gasket that one can get from NAPA for $1 that fits
perfectly
on the oil cap and stops all leaks from that source. I don't
have the part
number anymore but it is easy to find.
HTH,
AI Nut
Mark Frouhar wrote:
>
> I'm not clear on what your solution
was. Did you just buy another
> Mitsu oil cap or an aftermarket
one? Does this cap have some kind
> of vent built in?
>
> thanks
>
> -Mark
Frouhar
> 85 TA 434 DFI T56
> 95
3000GT VR4
>
http://legoland.fbody.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:27:00 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: 800+ hp???
Roger,
I recently had my car dyno'd on a Dynopack. They don't bother about
the
drive loss, it was not measured but the figure at the wheels was
347HP
(1185.4 ft/lb)in 4th gear. A ratio factor of 3.29 was printed on the
sheet
which I take as the final drive ratio or drive ratio in that gear.
The
question is have you done any runs using different gears to
measure
differences in losses between the gears.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 18:35:30 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: unhappy on cold start
I am about to replace my thermostat. My car, like yours takes a very
long
time to warm up. I drive 5 miles to work. On a cold day, the
temp needle
will just make it to the first tick by the time I get to
work. I don't let
the car sit to warm up like many people do. I
figure that if I'm going to
burn the gas, I might as well be going
somewhere. I find it very strange
since my other two cars are at full
operating temperature after driving just
two blocks.
I'll post if replacing the thermostat fixes my warm up problem.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
> > The above is the main reason my final engine specs are a
.040
> > overbore, 8.5:1 static C/R, and a 9K redline.......
If you go with a 9k redline and can make it work dependably, then I
would
recommend upgrading to a dry oil sump system. That should net you
about
another 50 hp or so when your crank shaft isn't beating your oil at
9k.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Doug,
Is there a dry sump system for our cars ?
------------------------------
Just make one.
A windage tray wouldn't be a bad compromise tho.
Add an accusump as well.
On Mon, 30 Dec 2002, Jim Floyd wrote:
> Doug,
>
> Is there a dry sump
system for our cars ?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:54:34 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaky oil cap
NAPA is where I got the aftermarket replacement oil cap that doesn't
leak.
It isn't black or plastic or have a logo on it but it also doesn't
leak.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> There is a radiator gasket that one can get from NAPA for $1 that
fits
> perfectly on the oil cap and stops all leaks from that
source.
> I don't have the part number anymore but it is easy to
find.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 23:02:35 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 800+ hp???
> If you go with a 9k redline and can make it work dependably,
>
then I would recommend upgrading to a dry oil sump system.
Most of the oil the crank hits is going to be falling from the
heads,
probably little of it sloshing up from the pan. A dry sump won't
reduce the
majority of the oil that the crank is flinging around in the
block.
> That should net you about another 50 hp or so when your
> crank
shaft isn't beating your oil at 9k.
More like 15-20HP at the most if the articles I've read on the subject
are
accurate. You'd also need to find a place to mount the pump where
an
accessory belt can spin it. You'd likely have to lose your A/C to
make room
for it.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 01:54:48 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
unhappy on cold start
Thanks for all the responses. As a matter of fact, this battery is
getting
kind of old. Also I have some pretty corroded grounding straps. I'll
use
terminal cleaner all over and buy some new grounding straps. Then
I'll
"report back" :)
In response to Flash:
Letting the car idle by itself takes awhile since you're not spooling
the
turbo. Our manual says not to "race" the engine when it's cold. I
always
overdo things, so if the manual says not to race it, then I'm flat out
going
to be grandpa about it until the thing warms up!
The engine components esp. pistons & rings are not a perfect fit when
the
car is cold started. Now here's the part that I *think* is true... but
I'm
not absolutely sure. (anyone, feel free to correct me here) Until you're
at
operating temp, there is more blow-by since the rings don't seal as
well.
The faster you drive when the engine is cold, 1) the more fuel will
make its
way into your oil. Fuel in oil = BAD. 2) piston assemblies bang
around more
in the cylinder wall (due to lash in the rings)--this is more
true for the
high mileage 3S owners. <--- again, someone correct me if
they have a
different opinion
Now the other side of the argument would be: letting the car idle or
keeping
RPMs very low during warm up will cause the engine to take LONGER to
warm
up, therefore more blow-by gases would enter that way. <---- I
personally
don't buy that. I've heard it argued, but isn't there
significantly more air
and fuel entering the engine when you give the car
more throttle and rev it
higher?... significant enough to offset the effect
of a using long idle to
warm your car up?
I don't intend to start a heated discussion on how to cold start our
cars
(although I may), but after the time and work I've spent on my car,
I'm
definitely going to take every precaution that I possibly can and get
every
last mile out of this motor. You guys all remember me struggling...
day
after day... week after week to finish that 60k tuneup CORRECTLY. I am
VERY
gentle with my car on a cold start. If there's going to be a lot of
traffic,
then I let it idle to warm up. This is because when there's lots of
traffic
you generally want to step on the gas to enter traffic... just so you
don't
piss off the guy behind you. I think it's worth the wasted "warm up"
gas to
be able to punch my throttle without clenching my teeth in the
morning.
I think I'm being too careful. But oh well. I don't have enough money to
buy
a new motor. But I do have enough time to run down to my car, start it,
and
let it warm up while I get dressed or something.
Flash: I never did answer your question. But I'm sure you can gather that
I
do believe that I'm prolonging the life of my engine. However, I have
no
idea how much. I will say this though. The previous owner treated this
car
just like I do. This original motor is at 190,000 miles now, and I
have
almost top compression still.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
ready to join a high mileage crew...!?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 02:03:09 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
windshield washer for the snow!
I've got my Blizzak WS-50s mounted (thanks again everyone for the
advice)
and I'm going to leave on Wednesday evening for my cabin in Tahoe. I
just
remembered that I never did get my windshield washer working again.
I
unplugged all those wires when I changed my fuel filter. I really need
to
know how to follow those windshield washer harnesses to the right places
and
hook up the full circuit. I feel like some wiring harness or other
isn't
hooked up since no matter how I hook up the circuit there seems to
always be
an inconsistency in it. Wish I could be more specific... I'll try
to take
pics if possible, or at least be more detailed in my
explanation.
Symptoms? My windshield washer doesn't work, but it used to before I
changed
my fuel filter. If anyone has a chance to take a peek under their
hood and
follow those wires I'd really appreciate it. I'd love to have my
washer
working before I leave so that I can melt all those annoying bits of
ice
that get on my windshield. Sorry for the last minute desperation. I try
not
to procrastinate...but hey, I'm not perfect!
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
going to the snow.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:48:59 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 800+ hp???
Doug I had contemplated doing that, but for a violent street car that
will
see some drag strip and road course work it was not worth the cost,
hassle,
or the aggravation...
If I go with a stage 2 motor for this animal I will go with a dry
sump
setup, and you really think I will gain 50 crank HP vs the stock oil
system,
I was told more like 30HP gain (the other reason I decided against a
drysump
system. cost + aggravation > gain )
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:55:59 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 800+ hp???
The stock retainers and springs will, I am running ferrera 1MM
oversize
valves, high tension springs (they are actually just doubled
up springs but
it'll work), and titanium retainers.
The head work itself has not yet been done (dropping all those goodies
off
mid January) but again not worried yet just going through
withdrawal
(haven't driven the car since May 02)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt
[mailto:Kurt.Zobel@ca.com]
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 7:15 PM
Won't the valves float just a tad at 9K ?
What cams and valve train are
you using ?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:22
AM
Not really, just shot-peen, deep cryo treat, and 4 way balance the
rods
(crowers). Then after that you just have the rotating assembly
balanced
(now that part is going to be expensive)
If I do a stage 2 motor for this car (not likely) I am going to aim
for
10K and run that on stock bore (to help reduce the likely hood of
con
rod stretch)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:52:52 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: unhappy on cold start
Riyan,
I didn't think the turbos were spooling at idle or high-rev idle.
At
least, the aftermarket boost gauge I have shows no boost when I'm
idling
or revving it up a little at idle so I don't think the turbos are
moving
at that point.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 04:55
In response to Flash:
Letting the car idle by itself takes awhile since you're not
spooling
the turbo. Our manual says not to "race" the engine when it's cold.
I
always overdo things, so if the manual says not to race it, then
I'm
flat out going to be grandpa about it until the thing warms up!
[snip]
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:56:52 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spare tire size
Chuck,
My thoughts exactly but this is the stock wheel that was in the car
when
I purchased it. I think the 95 VR-4 had 17" standard and 18"
wheels as
an option but this spare tire took up about the same size in the
trunk
well as the 18" tires did so I never bothered measuring to see --
plus
- -- I replaced that spare tire with a full-size spare (5-spoke 18"
wheel)
so it did not apply to me and is why I can sell mine to someone.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31,
2002 10:10
>>>How strange? That description looks like a 17"
wheel.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:57:39 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: unhappy on cold start
Umm Darren actually even at idle the turbos are spinning but the engine
is
more than consuming their output and no positive manifold pressure
is
seen....
Take off one of you inlet hoses sometime and you will be a believer
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 10:53 AM
Riyan,
I didn't think the turbos were spooling at idle or high-rev idle.
At
least, the aftermarket boost gauge I have shows no boost when I'm
idling
or revving it up a little at idle so I don't think the turbos are
moving
at that point.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:00:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: unhappy on cold start
Russell,
Duh. I was confusing spinning turbo with boost pressure from a
turbo.
Silly me. I've done that test too when I was hooking up the
vacuum line
kit. Missed one and heard the tell-tale sign of a loose
hose
(hissssssssssssss!). My brain is already on holiday mode
again.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:06:40 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spare tire size
The 17" stock wheels have a 16" spare tire and the 18" stock rims
have a
17" spare tire. As long as the it clears the front caliper and
is the same
diameter as the stock tire then that is all that matters.
Can anyone tell me if the only difference between the 16" and 17" spare
is
to clear the bigger caliper on the second gen. Is the diameter the
same
since the 18" tire have 40% of the 245 and the 17" tires have 45% of
the
245. I hope that makes sense.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:00:08 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: unhappy on cold start
But of course are the turbines spooling, how else can the exhaust gas
exit
and how else can go fresh air into the engine ? Just think about this
as
there is no bypass valve at all ;-)) They just do not have the
necessary
speed to compress the air !!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:21:44 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spare tire size
So why are the AWD owners yelled at to run two 18" tires and two
17"
tires when their own spare is a 17" and the other three good ones are
an
18" tire? Wouldn't this mess up the diff into scream mode or at
least
be not advisable? Good thing I have a full-size spare then
during
summer weather but it means I need to toss the real spare tire in
the
trunk now since I have the 17" winter wheels on the car.
Anyone going to touch this one? We've seen the "don't alter sizes
on
AWD cars" discussion over on the 3S-Racers list but for the AWD guys
it
was always assumed you wanted the same on all corner and not just
the
same (within a few percent) rolling diameter on each corner.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Moe Prasad
Sent: Tuesday, December
31, 2002 11:07
The 17" stock wheels have a 16" spare tire and the 18" stock rims
have
a 17" spare tire. As long as the it clears the front caliper and
is the
same diameter as the stock tire then that is all that matters.
Can anyone tell me if the only difference between the 16" and 17"
spare
is to clear the bigger caliper on the second gen. Is the diameter
the
same since the 18" tire have 40% of the 245 and the 17" tires have
45%
of the 245. I hope that makes sense.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:27:29 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spare tire size
> Anyone going to touch this one? We've seen the "don't alter
sizes on
> AWD cars" discussion over on the 3S-Racers list but for the AWD
guys it
> was always assumed you wanted the same on all corner and not
just the
> same (within a few percent) rolling diameter on each
corner.
The last part is exactly right. The only part that matters is the
diameter
of the actual tire, not the diameter of the wheel. You could
run a pair of
14" wheels and a pair of 24" wheels as long as the outer
diameter of the
tires matched fairly closely (if such a wheel would
fit!).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:27:35 -0600
From: "rsaylors" <
rsaylors@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1st gear pops out frequently
I just bought a 91 Stealth ES and noticed that it pops out of first
gear
about half the time I'm taking off. I'm taking it in Thursday for
some
service but wanted any input you may have for me.
Thanks,
Rick
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:31:39 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spare tire size
I would always run the same size and brand tire all the way around but
as
long as the circumference is exactly the same on the tires, people should
be
able to run 17" in the front and 18" in the back. I think the phrase
is
"plus sizing" or something like that. You can walk into any tire
shop and
ask them the get you the same circumference tire but the rim size
can be 17
or 18.
As I stated before, I would not do that but it is possible to do it.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:36:57 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: tire size front vs rear
Just some food for thought with our cars stock center VCD it is
not
recommended. However on the Nissan Skyline (particularly the R-34) they
use
LSD's and have no issues/concerns running two different width tires front
VS
rear as long as the overall diameter is kept very close i.e. 245/40
R18
FRONT and 275/35 R18 REAR.
And with the Kormex LSD no becoming more readily available a few doors
are
opening up....
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
I guess the spare still has to fit in the wheel well in the trunk. I wonder
if the stock 18" wheel carries a lower profile tire so that the overall
diameter is still the same?
Chuck
------------------------------
>>>How strange? That description looks like a 17"
wheel.
Chuck Willis
Moe - I have that exact spare tire sitting idle in my basement if
you
want it. Just reply off-list. I'll go take a look to
confirm. Yep,
confirmed this is a "Toyo E-08A T135/80D17 103M" spare
tire for a second
gen (1995-1/2) VR-4 with 18" wheels.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
How much are they charging per gallon vs 93 octane?
I guess we can look
forward to this in Houston, too!
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Costanza
[mailto:mcostanza@austin.rr.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 12:21
PM
cody wrote:
> First off, where do you find 97 octane readily available??? My
Talon
> needs that on a daily basis...
There are a couple of Shell gas stations that now carry 97 Octane. I
guess they are trying to cater to the Vette and Viper crowd. As you
have
stated though, it's probably more of a marketing gimmick than
anything
else.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
My son and I went the Magnecor route on our first two cars, but I went with
NGK wires for my second car. NGK was cheaper than Magnecor and Mitsu. I
think the only real difference is the color (Magnecor=red, NGK=blue,
Mitsu=battleship gray)
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:35:18 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spare tire size
We have stock 17" wheels here and a stock 17" spare wheel as well.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:03:43 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spare tire size
> I guess the spare still has to fit in the wheel well in
> the
trunk. I wonder if the stock 18" wheel carries
> a lower profile tire so
that the overall diameter is
> still the same?
It does...
17" TT wheel/tire: 245/45-17
18" TT wheel/tire:
245/40-18
Tire outer radius of 245/45-17 is 326.15
Tire outer radius of 245/40-18
is 326.60
At 70 MPH that's only a .138% variance in rotational speed.
Well within reason..... So you should be able to safely swap spares
from
any VR4 or Stealth TT with no problems, if you are using tires of
factory
sizes or have a plus size that's somewhat close to the original
factory
outer radius of around 326.15-326.60mm.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:13:07 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spare tire size
> Well within reason..... So you should be able to safely
swap
> spares from any VR4 or Stealth TT with no problems, if you
>
are using tires of factory sizes or have a plus size that's
> somewhat
close to the original factory outer radius of
> around
326.15-326.60mm.
I should probably add a disclaimer: as long as the spare fits your
turbo'd
car without hitting the front calipers - you can use any year
spare,
otherwise you'll have to stick to spares from the same generation car
as
your own.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:25:26 -0600
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Octane booster on top of premium fuel.
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> How much are they charging per gallon vs 93 octane?
> I guess we
can look forward to this in Houston, too!
Premium unleaded is $1.49/gal Super Premium unleaded is $1.59. I asked
the guy working inside the Shell station and he stated that it was being
test marketed in this area. He has no idea if it will go national or
not.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:43:55 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spare tire size
Matt,
That was the answer I was looking for. I will then stick with my
original
spare. I rarely drive the car. The other problem I know
I was going to
have with the back cover has hump for the spare
wheel.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
December 31, 2002 10:03 AM
> > I guess the spare still has to fit in the wheel well in
>
> the trunk. I wonder if the stock 18" wheel carries
> > a lower
profile tire so that the overall diameter is
> > still the
same?
>
> It does...
>
> 17" TT wheel/tire:
245/45-17
> 18" TT wheel/tire: 245/40-18
>
> Tire outer
radius of 245/45-17 is 326.15
> Tire outer radius of 245/40-18 is
326.60
>
> At 70 MPH that's only a .138% variance in rotational
speed.
>
> Well within reason..... So you should be able to
safely swap spares from
> any VR4 or Stealth TT with no problems, if you
are using tires of factory
> sizes or have a plus size that's somewhat
close to the original factory
> outer radius of around
326.15-326.60mm.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:58:08 -0800
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: X-fer case recall; Bay Area owners
Yes, I had mine done Dec 18th at Mitsubishi on Steven's Creek, San
Jose.
They installed the transfer case repair kit, resealed and changed oil.
One
day service (i had an appointment).
edgar
1991 VR-4 - 75K miles
Pearl White
K&N FIPK
> Has anyone in the Bay Area taken their car in for the recall? Can
someone
> recommend a reputable dealer?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:36:29 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Question 1:
All 4 tires on my '94 3000 VR-4 are worn down to the belts
on the inner 1 inch
of the tires, Yoko AVS dB's. The rest of the tires
average 5/1000 tread left
(about half.) The car was aligned when the
tires were installed about 12,000
miles ago. It has been aligned 4
times since then (due to an idiot that ran a
red light and hit my left
front.) Only once out of those 5 alignments was even
one tire out of
spec. What can be causing this?
The insurance adjuster said while the car was being repaired, there was
some
frame work done, but the body shop only checked 'center line' and the
front left
corner where it was hit. This makes no sense to me, but I
don't know anything
about frame alignment.
Now that I think about it, I seem to remember this same kind of wear on the
previous 2 tire sets, causing premature tread loss in the same place.
I'm not
absolutely sure about the previous sets, but I am about the current
one.
Question 2:
The adjuster was out yesterday and found that 3 out of 4 of
my wheels had nasty
bent places, but they weren't due to the accident;
probably due to the previous
owner but I didn't even know they were like
that as I didn't know to look for
that. So now I'm also looking at
having to get all 4 wheels, too. The adjuster
said the bent wheels
would not cause the premature wear like I have and to talk
to the place
where I bought the tires -- Tire Rack agrees but says they have no
other
history of this kind of wear on the AVS dB's.
At this point, I don't care whose fault it is, I just want it fixed.
How do I
get it fixed? How can I save the most money doing so?
Question 3:
When I replace the wheels, I understand that there is a
performance advantage in
getting 18 inch wheels versus the current 17's, but
one gives up a significant
amount of ride and noise quality. Is this
your experience? Tire Rack has
some 18" Moda R6 wheels for $249 each
that look a lot like factory wheels. I
understand the Mitsu factory
wheels are $650 each!!! For me, I can't drive to
the limit of the 17
inch wheels, so I'd rather keep some ride quality since I
can't get the
benefit of the larger wheels -- or is my thinking incorrect here?
Thanks,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:45:53 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tires (again)
I have to replace all 4 of my tires now so I thought I'd ask you guys for
advice. Yes, tires have been hashed and rehashed but my questions
haven't been
addressed, to my knowledge.
Mine is a '94 3000 VR-4 with factory 17". I've had all season high
performance
tires from Tire Rack for the last 3 sets, due to a
misunderstanding of mine. I
live in Alabama where we might get snow 2
times a year if we're lucky. I was
under the impression that the high
and max performance tires were practically
useless for temps below about
30-40 degrees F. Today, Gill at Tire Rack said
no, that is
incorrect. Without snow, the max performance tires will hold better
than the all season tires regardless of temperature. Further, he said
the max
performance tires won't grip as well at 32F as they will at 90F but
will still
beat the all-season tires. Lastly, he said if I get max
performance tires,
- -don't- drive on snow. This is my daily driver
and while I do have a beater
pickup, it's tires aren't even good in the rain
much less snow. What do you
guys think?
potential religious war question:
For my environment, Tire Rack
recommended 1) Dunlop SP9000, 2) Kumho Ecsta MX,
3) Yoko AVS-4, or 4)
Bridgestone Pole Position S03. Do you guys have a
preference?
I'm always looking to save money but not if something a lot better
only
costs a little more.
Thanks,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:43:06 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
You've got a ton of neg. camber at the least, with perhaps some toe-out
as
well.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:53:48 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Could 5 different shops have been wrong?
AI Nut
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> You've got a ton of neg. camber at the least,
with perhaps some toe-out as
> well.
------------------------------
I have AVS dBs on my '93 VR4 with no abnormal wear. If the wear was
on the outside, I would wonder how fast you are cornering. On the
inside sounds like incorrect camber adjustment (my guess).
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
yes. did any of the shops give you the printout of before and after
the alignment? did you watch them do it? were all of these genuine
"4 wheel alignments"? There are people who think that two 2-wheel
alignments equals one 4-wheel alignment.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut
[mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 12:54 PM
Could 5 different shops have been wrong?
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:16:23 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires (again)
I've had the S03's on now for almost a year, had the Bridgestone
S02's
before that. They are one of the best I've had on dry pavement,
and on
wet they still grip far better then some others I've tried.
They've got
great hydroplane resistance. I liked the aggressive look of
the S02's
over the new look of the S03's, but there's no question the S03's
are
nice and grippy. I drove with them in the snow once, not fun but
not
impossible (I don't recall any major issues).
- -James
95 Green VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 13:21:14 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Yes, yes, and yes.
AI Nut
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> yes. did any of the shops give
you the printout of before and after the alignment? did you watch
them do it? were all of these genuine "4 wheel alignments"? There are
people who think that two 2-wheel alignments equals one 4-wheel
alignment.
> Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 10:08:00 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tire size front vs rear
> Just some food for thought with our cars stock center VCD it is
not
> recommended. However on the Nissan Skyline (particularly the
R-34)
> they use LSD's and have no issues/concerns running two
different
> width tires front VS rear as long as the overall diameter is
kept
> very close i.e. 245/40 R18 FRONT and 275/35 R18 REAR.
You can't compare our cars to Skylines, they don't use a centre diff, it's
a
clutch pack electronically controlled, normally 2WD, they're only 4WD
when
the rears loose traction and in certain other instances. I have friends
with
GTRs.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 10:12:59 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: unhappy on cold start
> But of course are the turbines spooling, how else can the exhaust gas
exit
> and how else can go fresh air into the engine ? Just think about
this as
> there is no bypass valve at all ;-)) They just do not have the
necessary
> speed to compress the air !!
I turbo'd my V8 (351C) over 20 years ago with a Rajay E flow turbo.With
the
exhaust pipe disconnected and engine idling the turbo did not rotate at
all,
the intake air and exhaust gases go around the vanes. Give it a blip on
the
throttle and the wheels rotate but soon stop again.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:04:14 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: tire size front vs rear
Umm Steve an acquaintance of mine from Australia says in actuality
the
R-34's normally run a power split of 65% rear and 35% front and adjusts
it
electronically from there.
There was a discussion on how to 2WD dyno the R32 - R34 model cars,
try
exvitermini.com then go to BBS and search for a post by RH9. This
is why I
specifically mentioned the R-34 as my target point
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:21:05 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: tire size front vs rear
I found the thread see this, to reference what I was talking about
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent: Tuesday,
December 31, 2002 4:04 PM
Umm Steve an acquaintance of mine from Australia says in actuality
the
R-34's normally run a power split of 65% rear and 35% front and adjusts
it
electronically from there.
There was a discussion on how to 2WD dyno the R32 - R34 model cars,
try
exvitermini.com then go to BBS and search for a post by RH9. This
is why I
specifically mentioned the R-34 as my target point
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#40
**************************************