Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, December 28 2002 Volume
02 : Number 037
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a 93 Stealth ES and the leather seats are beginning to fade. So I
called the dealership and told me the seats would run me about $2,520 per
seat. (Conicelli Mitsubishi). Does anyone know a cheaper place or a good
place to reupholster the seats?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:14:39 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Seats
Yeah, check with Katskin or one of those outfits. They've had a couple of
group buys on the 3SI.org board. I got a set of front and rear covers that
replace the old covers for about $700 total. They are leather seating with
the rest vinyl and look better than new. I installed my own and it's a bit of a
PITA but you could probably have them installed for a few hundred
more.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:31:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger L <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Seats
Here is what I did, now Joe B is benefiting from my
efforts. In my 95
VR4 the drivers seat was beginning
to show wear along the edge where you get
in and out.
I am friends with a local car dealer that has a guy
that
"refinishes" seats in his used car inventory. The
seats were refinished for
under $100 and look
absolutely perfect, ask Joe. Try and find
someone
locally that will refinish the leather for you.
Roger
L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Keith Upton (Moboroshi) did mine and it was a LOT less.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 15:46:31 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Active Exhaust Question / Replace?
Check the TIM [ technical information manual ] on Jeff Lucius' site.
Jim Berry
==============================================
> the exhaust plume appeared to only come from the left
>
exhaust. The active exhaust setting was on sport. I switched to tour
>
mode
> and the familiar exhaust noise became considerably quieter and
exhaust
> plumes appeared at both the left and right exhaust tail
pipes.
------------------------------
I had mine reupholstered for about $400 for the front pair, leather seating
surfaces, vinyl others... Looked beautiful, you just have to find a
decent shop to do the work. I then turned around and sold them on
3SI for about $500 plus shipping, which bought me a set of Corbeau Forza
seats...
Heh, $2500 / seat = ultra light weight Sparco race seats, and half the mods
to actually need the seats...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Floyd
Sent: Friday, December
27, 2002 4:52 PM
Keith Upton (Moboroshi) did mine and it was a LOT less.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 19:09:50 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: The end of horn envy!
Yes, I know, there's lots on this board with 400, 500, even 600hp in
their 3S'. Great cars, fast, great handling. But what do you do
with
all that hp stuck in traffic. Worse yet, stuck in traffic along
with
all those high priced German and Italian exotica .......... 500/600 SL
Mercs, A8's, the occasional Ferrari, Porsches, Lexi, and even Detroit
iron like the Vipers. Sure on the open road you're a match for any of
them ........ always at the ready to rotate all four wheels at amazing
velocities. But in that traffic jam ...... if they all start blowing
their horns attempting to get things going ........... look over to you
for support .......... what happens .......... you just sink into your
seat knowing the utter embarrassment at even the thought of blowing that
silly excuse for a horn you have.
I no longer have horn envy. Santa was good to me. Under the
tree were
a set of Hella horns .......... all 118 db worth.
Installed in about
twenty minutes (needed to use new connectors).
Considerably bigger so
mounting in the stock holes was a minor
challenge. But talk about loud.
I don't use the horns very
often, in emergency situations only (you
know, like in traffic jams).
But now I honk with pride ............
knowing that those Porsches and Mercs
now look back with admiration and
a sense of kinship! Ahhh .......
life is good!
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:26:19 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: dot 3
and dot 4
Do they mix? I have my clutch system filled with Motul 600 which is afaik
dot4. The fluid level is at the minimum marker and the pedal feels kinda
mushy, so I wanted to bleed the system a little. All I have on hand is a
few bottles of the ford dot 3 high performance fluid. Can I mix the two? Or
should I bleed all of the Motul out?
Alex.
'95 VR4
99 conversion, Blitz SBC-iD, ek2mfg EGR block off
plates, KN intake, ngk double platinums @ .032"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:27:46 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: The end of horn envy!
Yeah, that was *one* thing that Chevy did well, long ago...
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 00:48:05 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: The end of horn envy!
I also was disappointed with the extremely wimpy and, well let's say it,
Japanese mini-car sound from the stock horns. I went with FIAMM horns. And
as
Dennis mentions, you can honk with pride with these aftermarket
alternatives.
They are very much worth the money and time. And they are
loud!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:52:08 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From:
"Jeff & Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Check Engine Light
My check engine light has been coming on and off for the last month. I
thought it was the change over in the gasoline from summer to winter so I
put in some STP Gas treatment and it seemed to cure the problem, (light
went out). But now the light is on again!
Any Ideas out there?
93 Stealth
Base
Jeff
------------------------------
Yes, they can mix, but you can only expect the level of performance to be
equal to the "worst" fluid in the system.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 00:52:54 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dot 3 and dot 4
Yes, DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid can be mixed freely. I am not sure how the
boiling points of the mixture will compare to the BPs of each pure fluid.
DOT
5.1 can also be mixed freely with DOT 3 and 4, even though it is based
on a
different chemical. More info on my web page below.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:53:18 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
The end of horn envy!
When I install my FMIC and 99 front end I plan on installing a horn from an
old Chevy pickup --- I use a 74 Chevy as a work truck and it has a
seriously loud horn. I can get one from a wrecking yard for $10 or so. I
suppose I should check the current drain though.
Jim berry
================================================
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:10:14 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: dot 3 and dot 4
On more thing. If the cans of DOT3 you have there are not sealed (have been
opened before) they are no good. DOT3 attracts and soaks in water from the
air. Boiling point will be shot.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:13:11 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Check Engine Light
Read in the manual how to extract error codes. You can guess at CE lights
for ever or just read the code and be pointed in the right
direction.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:12:50 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
> I came into this a bit late, but has anyone commented about the stock
> clutch in this application? It is my understanding that the stock
> clutch has a finite limitation regarding HP and torque. With
800hp
> and a substantial increase in torque (although not mentioned, but
> assumed) even 'normal' shifting could cause slippage of the clutch
> with maximum throttle application ......... especially in lower
gears.
> So, this scenario would cause accelerated driveline wear
which
> includes clutch facing.
I can definitely agree that the clutch is a weak point in the
driveline. I had mine replaced right after I installed a boost
controller and the clutch slipped in 5th gear. I was at Sacramento Raceway
(a 1/4 track) when I saw a VR4 smoke his stock clutch on two 13.5
runs. It was a stock clutch with about 6 months on it and his car
was running 15 psi.
Brainfood from 3Si or Brian as many of us know his, sheered off his output
shaft at the national gatherings. I don't think I have ever heard of
anyone else sheering off their output shaft so this may be an isolated
incident.
My own carrier bearings are shot and I plan to have them replaced or I may
have a carbon fiber shift installed. This seems to be another weak
point in the driveline since I have heard many other members complain
about it. I will be babying my driveline until I do this.
The last part of the driveline that I know of that tends to go bad is the
rear differential. There are many posts on this subject so I won't
repeat them.
To be fair, these 800 hp + cars have upgraded pistons, rods and crankshafts
plus a whole page worth of other upgrades and modifications. To say
that a all stock engine can operate reliably at 800 hp is not
accurate. I don't know the limit of "reliable" operation for a stock
engine but I would guess it is around 500 hp. With the exception of
the clutch, carrier bearings and possibly the rear differential, the driveline I
have read is able to support 1000 hp. Since I have never heard of a
sheered drive shaft yet, this may be true. Those thick drive shafts
may be part of the reason why our car weighs 3800# but at least I am not
worried about sheering one off like the Honda guys do.
Just my .02.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
+> On more thing. If the cans of DOT3 you have there are not sealed
+> (have been opened before) they are no good. DOT3 attracts and soaks
+> in water from the air. Boiling point will be shot.
+>
+>
Tyson
I was asking a friend his opinion on this matter a few days ago. He
said, "what's the difference between the air in the reservoir and the air
in the brake fluid bottle? they're both sealed as well as the
other."
I suppose there's a genuine difference, but I'd like to know what it is
before I throw away my 80% full bottle.
ps. unrelated - thanks to everyone for replies on my TC question!
------------------------------
There's no need to toss an 80% bottle as long as the bottle SEALS
WELL.
Everytime you DO open it, the fluid will absorb the moisture in the air
trapped inside..and degrade accordingly.
------------------------------
Ken,
I think we all have that "Leaky oil cap" problem. The way I
cured mine was simple. I never tighten it all the way ! I stop tightening
it when it gets to the point that it feels snug, just before its turned all
the way. I have never had it come loose or leak ever again. This might
work for you, or it may not, but it might save a lot of messing
around. Good Luck, Dave Thrower 92 Stealth R/T TT
130,000 MI No Mods
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 21:55:35 -0600
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Octane booster on top of premium fuel.
Just a question. Would adding Octane booster to a tank full of 97 Octane
cause any problems? This is with a SL NA engine. I am interested in
seeing what performance boost I would see with the Octane booster over
just regular 97 Octane.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 20:10:41 -0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: The end of horn envy!
Mine is called the highway blaster.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Sent:
Friday, December 27, 2002 5:48 PM
> I also was disappointed with the extremely wimpy and, well let's say
> it, Japanese mini-car sound from the stock horns. I went with FIAMM
> horns. And as Dennis mentions, you can honk with pride with
these
> aftermarket alternatives. They are very much worth the money
and
> time. And they are loud!
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fiammhorn.htm>
>
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/
------------------------------
Installing the krank vent fixed mine.
Joseph
93 vr4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 00:10:13 EST
From:
Rod2414738@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Alarm/keyless entry installation.
I installed an alarm system on my Stealth R/T TT a couple of months
ago. It
was a bit of a PITA, but far from the worst I've done.
Since it already has
the power locks, that takes a lot of the work out of
it.
I have the wiring diagrams printed, and I think I even marked up the ones I
used with what wire went where. If I find them, I can scan them in and
send
them your way via JPEG if you would like. I will send the
attachments
off-list, so if others would like them as well, feel free to
e-mail me. The
hardest part was getting to the ETACs unit for the horn
relay wire and the
pin switch wires. The second hardest part was
getting to the factory keyless
module and then figuring out the wires.
I hooked up the priority unlock too
(disarm unlocks the driver's door, a
second press unlocks the passenger door).
- -Rod
'93 Stealth R/T TT
> I'm am going to pick up a alarm/keyless entry kit tomorrow and install
> it myself. I am pretty confident that I can do this since
electronics
> are my specialty. The only problem I have is I don't
have the wiring
> diagrams so I know where to make the
connections.
>
> I have a 1992 Stealth base SOHC. It
has power locks and such and I
> just wanted to add a keyless
entry. But basic alarms come with this
> so I'm just gonna get the
basic alarm too. Has anyone done a how-to?
> Or could point me to
some links where I could find some diagrams. Or
> even better maybe scan
me some pages of the services manual for the
> diagrams. Has anyone done
this type of installation themselves?
> Hard or easy? Any input would be
appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
>
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 23:12:43 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaky oil cap
I put on an aftermarket oil cap and haven't leaked since.
I think it was $8 at NAPA. It isn't black plastic with a nice Mitsu logo
but it doesn't leak either.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 23:15:40 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake job
I'm getting geared up to replace all brake pads and get all four rotors
turned. I remember hearing folks talk about barbequing their brake pads
prior to installation.
Is this something I should do? TIA.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
I take my car in for the transfer case exam on Monday. I am trying to
convince the dealership to fix my leaky tranny at the same time (for free,
of course*).
Question: I have about 15,000 miles on a new stock clutch. Should I take
this opportunity to stick in a new clutch? With 95% of the labor cost
covered by warranty, this'd be a great opportunity. Any recommendations on
which clutch would be best for open track (not drag racing)?
And what about the flywheel? The local speed shop sez I oughta stick in a
lightened stock flywheel that weighs 5 lb less than stock. Youse guys got
opinions on lightened flywheels? What should it cost?
I suspect that I'll have about a week to arrange all this if they decide to
replace the tranny and the transfer case.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
*Mitsu put in a new 6 speed under warranty two years ago. It immediately
started leaking, and the dealership tried a couple of solutions to fix it,
but nothing worked. Mitsu declined to replace the tranny again. Under open
track conditions, it spews oil all over the track. It does not leak under normal
conditions. I am hopeful that I can convince them to fix or replace the
tranny when they do the transfer case.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 01:23:49 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Octane booster on top of premium fuel.
First off, where do you find 97 octane readily available??? My Talon
needs that on a daily basis...
Secondly, anything more than 91/92/93 in a N/A car is not necessary. Higher
octanes actually have less overall power, yet have the ability to reduce
detonation.
Unless you have a modified N/A motor running higher than normal
compression, or are running a power adder like nitrous/turbo/supercharger,
then you don't need any better than normal premium fuel.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Costanza
Sent: Friday,
December 27, 2002 9:56 PM
Just a question. Would adding Octane booster to a tank full of 97
Octane
cause any problems? This is with a SL NA engine. I am interested in
seeing what performance boost I would see with the Octane booster over
just regular 97 Octane.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 09:12:48 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: The end of
horn envy!
This is the best modification I've heard about in a long while. Arty 91
VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 08:29:10 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brake job
I don't have personal experience with this one so I'll refer you to the FAQ
. . .
also, I'd recommend bleeding the brakes while you're there
If you don't, then moisture slowly builds up in the fluid and you will need
to replace many parts sooner. The brake pad line fitting start to corrode,
in addition to caliper fittings... becomes a very costly repair.
Riyan
93 rt tt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
Sent: Friday, December
27, 2002 10:16 PM
I'm getting geared up to replace all brake pads and get all four rotors
turned. I remember hearing folks talk about barbequing their brake pads
prior to installation.
Is this something I should do? TIA.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 10:55:54 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Power steering belt size
Can anyone tell me what the correct size for the power steering belt
is? I ordered an underdrive pulley with belts from DR and I think
they must have
sent me the wrong size belt. No matter what I try
I CANNOT get the belt
they sent me to reach around all the related
pulleys. I don't think the unorthodox pulley changes the belt size
on the power steering....but I guess I could be wrong. Help quick if you
can....trying to get this done today(sat).
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 11:28:53 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New clutch?
> Question: I have about 15,000 miles on a new stock
> clutch.
Should I take this opportunity to stick in a
> new clutch? With 95% of the
labor cost covered by
> warranty, this'd be a great opportunity.
Any
> recommendations on which clutch would be best for
> open track
(not drag racing)?
If you aren't making crazy power and the stock clutch has worked fine so
far, and you aren't planning any big power upgrades then just swap out the
friction disc and be done with it. Probably around $100 for the
part, maybe a little less.
> And what about the flywheel? The local speed shop
> sez I oughta
stick in a lightened stock flywheel that
> weighs 5 lb less than stock.
Youse guys got opinions
> on lightened flywheels? What should it
cost?
I have the Fidanza flywheel which is 14 pounds less weight than
stock. My car sometimes dies when idling, which is somewhat
annoying. It also chatters a lot, but that may be the RPS 6-puck clutch
I'm using. Since I swapped both in at the same time I couldn't say
which part is causing that.
The DSM guys who have lightened stock flywheels occasionally (not often)
have one which flies apart and destroys most of the car (tranny, firewall,
roof, hood, and passenger side of the interior - OUCH!). To lose
only 5 pounds it probably isn't worth it. I'd personally buy the real deal
and get one that's engineered to be light rather than taking material off
the stock flywheel. If the stock one has any hidden cracking it
might be dangerous.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 12:21:23 -0600
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Octane booster on top of premium fuel.
cody wrote:
> First off, where do you find 97 octane readily available??? My
Talon
> needs that on a daily basis...
There are a couple of Shell gas stations that now carry 97 Octane. I
guess they are trying to cater to the Vette and Viper crowd. As you
have
stated though, it's probably more of a marketing gimmick than
anything
else.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 12:31:41 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: F-Body Road America Event
I have sent in my registration and $ for the Midwest F-Body "School" at
Road
America, April 11-12. My 94 VR4 should be running ok by then, and
my friend
Paul's 94 Supra TT with HKS 2835 kit etc etc should be done by
then, he is
going too. I have gone with them in 2000 and 2002, it is
fun, and cool
(good for our hp and our brakes)...
They BETTER have 650hp
;)
Jack T.
> Around here, the big talk is the F Body event at Road America in
April. It
seems that Camaro and Corvette owners will be going in droves, and
they are
really talking trash. Go to
http://dan@speed-seekers.com/>
One speed shop in Rock Island is full of Camaros and Z06es that are
getting
fitted with turbochargers and superchargers.
> Internet forums for these
guys are talking about 650 hp at the wheels, 180
mph top ends, 10-sec quarter
miles, and like that.
> No question, there is a TON of money being spent
by RROWGs (Really Rich
old white guys) on these track cars.
> My
question: Have you run into any of these beasties on the track? Do
they
last?
> My feeling is they will be like my friend Brian's $100,000
IROC Camaro;
e.g., 5 lap wonders. His car cranks 650 hp, but it doesn't run
for more than
5 laps at a time. He's blown head gaskets, thrown blower belts,
run lean,
and had assorted other problems that kept his total lap time in
2002 to
about 15 minutes. He brings two cars to the track (the other is his
Z06), so
he'll have something to drive after he blows up the Camaro.
>
I can't see any of these beasties lasting more than a few laps, and NONE
of
them making it through an entire weekend.
> What do you guys think? I'm
planning to go, and expect to be the last car
on the track on Sunday. Maybe
even on Saturday.
> Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 11:37:47 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Octane booster on top of premium fuel.
Another thing for all of us to remember is that higher altitudes
require
less octane. I live at 5,200 feet above sea level where premium fuel
is only
91 octane and regular is 85.5.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
No.
Esp. if you are using Porterfield R4-S pads. the new pads don't
require
heat treatment..it'll shock them.
On Fri, 27 Dec 2002, Desert Fox wrote:
> I'm getting geared up to replace all brake pads and get all four
rotors
> turned. I remember hearing folks talk about barbequing their
brake pads
> prior to installation.
>
> Is this something I
should do? TIA.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 14:12:21 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel
Pressure Gauge
Hey gang,
I'm going to be changing my fuel filter soon and will have
done
half the work for installing a fuel pressure sender unit (take
out
battery + tray, depressurize fuel line, etc.). Thing is I don't have
the
money to spend on the gauge right now, and was thinking of
maybe
splicing in a t that I would need for the pressure gauge and
just
capping it off for the time being, so I wouldn't have to mess with
the
fuel line later. Is that safe?
Alex
'95 VR4
99 conversion, Blitz SBC-iD, ek2mfg EGR block off
plates, KN intake, ngk
double platinums @ .032"
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 12:23:27 -0800
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 800+ hp??? (was: Just posted this on 3SI)
Doug...
I know you didn't start this thread or claim, but who has a dyno'd
800+
hp VR4???
You can read my mods list below, they are pretty close to matching
what
Roger Gerl has done to his VR4 in Europe. He's had his car
dyno'd
several times and, as I recall, it's putting out 450 or 475 hp at
the
wheels. What would a person have to do to DOUBLE that hp at
the
wheels??? Note that most of these mods are designed to improve
handling
and an increase in boost, virtually NONE of them add hp by and in
of
themselves. Nitrous might buy you another 100 hp, but no amount
of
forged or balanced this, ceramic coated that, is going to increase
hp.
The only thing that will increase hp in our cars is more boost.
The
"standard" formula that I've read in several books is that you
net
around 100 hp for every 10 psi of boost. To get from stock 320 hp to
800
hp would require going from 10 psi to 60 psi (or a combination
of
different fuels and monster boost). While there are people like Arty
who
are building trailer queens and expect (hope?) to exceed 1000 hp (at
the
wheels?) and break into the single digits in the 1/4 mile, I don't
know
of anyone who has 800+ hp that's anything other than a dream. Do
you???
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and
polished
throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 720cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump,
ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A
boost
controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS
SBOV,
custom intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top, Magnecore
8.5mm
wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb
pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing,
ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen
cross-drilled
rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1"
drop
progressive springs, strut tower bars, anti-sway bars,
245/40-18
Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots on one set of factory chromed wheels,
265/35-18
Toyo Proxies on another set of factory chromed wheels)
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 5:13
PM
<snip>
To be fair, these 800 hp + cars have upgraded pistons, rods
and
crankshafts plus a whole page worth of other upgrades and
modifications.
To say that a all stock engine can operate reliably at 800 hp
is not
accurate. I don't know the limit of "reliable" operation for a
stock
engine but I would guess it is around 500 hp. With the exception
of the
clutch, carrier bearings and possibly the rear differential,
the
driveline I have read is able to support 1000 hp. Since I have
never
heard of a sheered drive shaft yet, this may be true. Those thick
drive
shafts may be part of the reason why our car weighs 3800# but at least
I
am not worried about sheering one off like the Honda guys do.
Just my .02.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 12:57:36 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: 800+ hp??? (was: Just posted this on 3SI)
800 is a crazy number. I am sure that if NASA got the project its doable
but
man, talk about major mods... Getting a block to do it is one thing,
but
then you have to have a car that can handle it... Doubt our tranny
could...
Anyhow main reason I am wring is to add that I have read stuff that
10PSI
aprox = 100HP. That has been roughly true with my experiments. However,
that
assumes that engine volume and compression remain stock. Those are
certainly
places to gain some HP and will add more HP exponentially with
boost. Our
engines can be opened up from 3.0L to 3.16L (which I am in the
process of
doing) and compression ratio can be bumped up at the same time
with some new
pistons (which again I am in the process of doing). Now I'm
pulling this
number directly out of thin air (tests need to be done) but I
would guess
that with these mods 10PSI may = 120HP or something. That brings
us a bit
closer to the goal of 800. Add to that some porting, fuel mods
(propane in
my case) and all the normal stuff (intake exhaust) and I plan to
be at
around 555HP when I am done... (Still need turbos and injectors to get
the
20PSI I want to run.) Add Nitrous (which I am NOT going to do) can
do
another 100+ (+ if you got hardened everything) The rest..... Maybe
a
jetpack? I don't know :)
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 19:19:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Castawaykev <
castawaykev@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Snow tires
I live in Canada and am used to winter driving, hell 5 months of it or so
it seems, and the snow has been falling through the later half of
December. So I can attest that using the high performance summer
tires that I have works. Works but isn't safe! I am switching over
to winter tires asap. However I only plan on driving the beast, my
Blue 92 Dodge Stealth ES, on dry road conditions. Or at least when the
roads are plowed. I have a backup Nissan Pathfinder, which the
girlfriend drives. So in order for me to have the "this is my car
this is your car relationship" I need to drive my stealth as much as
possible. Thank God she holds well in the snow and I've had her
undercoated etc., plus I was her down twice a week due to all the salt on
the freakin roads. Luckily we haven't had much snow to speak of yet.
I am worried about Jan/Feb/March!!! Those are the worst
months...March being the killer for some strange reason. I live in
Prince Edward Island. I am also lucky that I only live 3 minutes from
work...by car. Yes I could walk.....but would you? All
in all winter tires are a wise choice/sacrifice for a mere 3-5 months of
the year. The car still looks like a dream.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 10:59 AM
In case you guys were wondering, I ordered 4 235/45/17 Bridgestone
Blizzak
WS50s for the car. The snow performance was rated better than the
LM-22 by
the survey website and by the guy I talked to from the tire place. I
realize
that I'm going to get less performance on dry roads (that's
apparently the
disadvantage of WS50s vs. LM-22s).
I feel good about my $600 decision based on all of your opinions,
and
plus... I just didn't feel comfortable with that cumbersome 2WD van I
took
to the snow last time. I also hate pulling over and freezing my ....
off
while I install chains only to run back outside later on to remove
them
again! And yes, regarding the safety factor, I already have experience
with
expensive metal at body shops!! I'm not playing that game again.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#37
**************************************