Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, December 27
2002 Volume 02 : Number 036
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:22:19 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Which Fuel Controller?
I would personally recommend the HKS unit for 2 reasons first it has an
Idle adjustment map that can be set up separately from the actual fuel
map, and secondly it is compact in size allowing you to mount it
anywhere.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
nouveau3@attbi.com
[mailto:nouveau3@attbi.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 11:51 AM
I'm looking at adding a pair of 13G Turbos, after the beginning of the
year. I
have a set of 460 injectors already, and ATR DP & 3" diam
exhaust on the way. I am looking at either an Apexi or HKS fuel
controller. I'm looking for some
input as to which of these is the better product and why. Thanks for your
help.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 10:59:19 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Snow tires
In case you guys were wondering, I ordered 4 235/45/17 Bridgestone Blizzak
WS50s for the car. The snow performance was rated better than the LM-22 by
the survey website and by the guy I talked to from the tire place. I
realize that I'm going to get less performance on dry roads (that's apparently
the disadvantage of WS50s vs. LM-22s).
I feel good about my $600 decision based on all of your opinions, and
plus... I just didn't feel comfortable with that cumbersome 2WD van I took
to the snow last time. I also hate pulling over and freezing my .... off
while I install chains only to run back outside later on to remove them again!
And yes, regarding the safety factor, I already have experience with
expensive metal at body shops!! I'm not playing that game again.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 12:30:11 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Reverse Lights Still Off
Good Write-up! For some reason I always thought that the tranny would have
be taken apart to fix that... I stopped working after a tranny rebuild...
I am sure that is the problem. Ill try it when my car is working
again.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
Sent: Thursday,
December 26, 2002 8:43 AM
I have finally fixed my reverse lights. From underneath (with the car on
jack stands I was able to unplug the harness from the reverse switch, push
the plug up (for access from above) and jumper across the plug. The
reverse lights came on. I had previously checked the fuse and bulbs, both OK. I
suspected the reverse switch. I called my Mitsubishi dealer and talked to
service, telling them what I had done and they agreed that it was the
switch (all other possible causes eliminated). I ordered one for $20 and I
finally installed it. It requires an aluminum washer (I think it is the
same one the drain plug takes). It was a snap working from underneath the
car. It takes a 15/16 inch deep socket and then a lot of hand turning (lots of
threads). The switch has a ball on the end that protrudes into the
transmission. When the transmission is shifted into reverse something must
slide across the end of the switch, depressing the ball and completing the
electrical circuit. I asked the parts guy if he had heard of them going
out and he said that they occasionally go bad.
A special thanks to Geoff Mohler for pointing out that my reverse lights
were out in the first place.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 12:47:04 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Just
posted this on 3SI
Hi
I just think that engineers at Mitsubishi was smart enough to make
the boost as it was if they managed to build this car. They could add 50hp
without spending any $. That's very big gain. But they probably put the
boost to the maximum limit. Maybe you can add 5% or something if you are using
very good fuel. But I think adding more will make life of your engine,
transmission much shorter. The other part is that it's difficult to use
all 320 hp all the time at least here in southern California even without the
boost control. So why to make engine life shorter ?
andrius
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Sent: Monday,
December 23, 2002 6:00 PM
> Since when is a boost controller bad? It is the single biggest
power
> adder to most any turbo charged car. Gains of 50 or more hp
with a
> simple modification aren't unheard of, so long as the boost is
kept at
> reasonable levels.
------------------------------
It is naive to think that the engineers at Mitsubishi went near the design
limit of the engine. Engineers are trained to leave a safety margin
in all designs, how much varies. The change from 1st gen to 2nd gen
was +20 hp over 300 hp, strictly on boost pressure, and already in excess of the
5% you mentioned. Many of us on this list have operated our cars
safely for many miles at 14.7 psi boost without any adverse effects.
The life of other parts like the transmission depends more on the way you abuse
it than how much boost your engine has. If you are having trouble
using all 320 stock horses, perhaps you should consider an even lower hp
car.
My 2 cents.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:07:43 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
Then why upgrade the HP level of your car at all???
My "turbo" car is a Talon, AWD. It went from 15.2 in the 1/4 with
exhaust and intake to a 14.1 in the 1/4, only addition of a boost
controller set at a moderate 14 psi. I would say at least a 40 hp gain to go
from 15.2 to 14.1 in the 1/4 with a 3330 lb car.
The original post was about the varying hp levels of different mods. Any
modification has the "ability" to shorten the lifespan of the motor. A
boost controller only sets the "maximum" boost. My right foot is the
other boost controller - throttle position and driving style will affect the
amount of boost over a set period of time more so than a boost controller
will.
A boost controller is a good thing, how do you think they build 800+ hp
Supras, I guarantee it isn't on factory boost setting...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:23:37 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Active Exhaust Question / Replace?
I searched the archives and have yet to find an answer to the following
question.
Last weekend, as I was bleeding the brakes (engine running), I noticed that
in the cool weather, the exhaust plume appeared to only come from the left
exhaust. The active exhaust setting was on sport. I switched to tour mode
and the familiar exhaust noise became considerably quieter and exhaust
plumes appeared at both the left and right exhaust tail pipes.
I dug out my owners manual and all it offers is that below 3500 rpm the
exhaust noise is reduced in tour mode. Setting to sport mode "unleashes the
full power of the engine".
I'm wondering if anyone in Team3S land can explain the difference between
sport and tour mode for the active exhaust. My normal setting is sport for
driving around, driving at the track, etc. I'm curious as to which mode
provides the best performance.
I've been thinking about replacing the cat back part of the exhaust and I'd
like to get a feel for what I gain. I've see BORLA mentioned on the list.
I'm curious as to other brands. I'd really like one that is just
bolt-up.
Thanks.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:35:57 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Just
posted this on 3SI
Hi
You forget that they did 320 from 300 after they made engine stronger
(4 bolts instead of 2). The older engine had broken crankshaft problem. So
you can make conclusion yourself. So I would never boost the older one
definitely.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:41:23 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
Um, there are people running 500+ crank hp on the 2 bolt motors.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:40:21 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Active
Exhaust Question / Replace?
Hi
Tour mode is for saving gas on the highway or something like that. In
sport mode only one pipe is working to give more backpressure to the turbo
and to have more low end torque. (I don't understand how do backpressure
works). Can anyone explain ? You can have real gain if you put titanium exhaust
without cats. Save on weight a lot !
andrius
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gerhard" <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Sent: Thursday,
December 26, 2002 1:23 PM
> I searched the archives and have yet to find an answer to the
>
following question.
>
> Last weekend, as I was bleeding the brakes
(engine running), I noticed
> that in the cool weather, the exhaust plume
appeared to only come from
> the left exhaust. The active exhaust setting
was on sport. I switched
> to tour mode and the familiar exhaust noise
became considerably
> quieter and exhaust plumes appeared at both the left
and right exhaust
> tail pipes.
>
> I dug out my owners manual
and all it offers is that below 3500 rpm
> the exhaust noise is reduced
in tour mode. Setting to sport mode
> "unleashes the full power of the
engine".
>
> I'm wondering if anyone in Team3S land can explain the
difference
> between sport and tour mode for the active exhaust. My
normal setting
> is sport for driving around, driving at the track, etc.
I'm curious as
> to which mode provides the best
performance.
>
> I've been thinking about replacing the cat back
part of the exhaust
> and I'd like to get a feel for what I gain. I've
see BORLA mentioned
> on the list. I'm curious as to other brands. I'd
really like one that
> is just bolt-up.
>
>
Thanks.
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 17:45:47 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
Umm andrius they made the engine stronger on all production models after
6/92 (which included the 93 Model Year cars) So your reasoning is flawed,
your choice not to up the boost is fine but on this list you are not going
to be able to sell anyone your thought process. And definitely not me with
the fact I just found out I will be putting a pair of 25/40 Garret's using
a TD05 housing on my car.
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 "sleep now precious soon you will decimate
most"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:50:05 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active Exhaust Question / Replace?
Let me lay down the law here for a minute, and please keep the rest of this
OT junk off the list (you can reply privately if you like)...
First off... Turbos hate backpressure. Backpressure is evil to
a turbocharged car. Low end torque yes, but that applies more so to
a n/a car.
Secondly, the active exhaust system routes gases straight out the driver
side rear in sport mode, but forces a lot of the gases to take a longer
route to the passenger side, through more resonators and such, in tour
mode. This creates more backpressure, and less overall HP. Titanium
exhaust - that's a term you will see around the Honda boys a lot, or those
with super deep pockets, because the advantage is only a few real pounds
in savings over another cat-back, or full exhaust... Tour mode does not
save gas either, it just quiets the car. I believe, it could
actually make gas mileage go down *less mpg* due to the engine having to
work somewhat harder to expel the exhaust gases in tour mode.
Question - how long have you been around??? I don't mean to misjudge
/ prejudge / whatever, but you are making a bunch of rookie comments, like
we are supposed to believe you....
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:46:05 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Active Exhaust Question / Replace?
IMO, you'll get more performance gains if you start with the downpipe. But
before even going to the exhaust area, ask yourself (and tell us) Where do
you want to go with car... got a future planned for it? Our cars
seem to benefit more from intake and fuel mods first. Then, when you've done
those, the exhaust mods help more. Also, someone had a cutout picture of
the Active Exhaust system which showed how the Sport and Tour baffle
diverts air differently in the muffler .... was it Omar? ... and I'm not sure if
it was here or on 3SI, but if it's really bugging you then feel free to
send me a e-mail so I can try and dig it up for you.
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
about to hit the snow!
Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved" main
and front pre-cat, 450cc injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12 PSI, EK2
Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air Box, S-AFC, Boost, A/F,
and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP resistor bypass+hotwire, U.P.
Front and Rear S-Bars
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:44:37 -0800
From: "Andrius Masiulis" <
andrius@vb.lt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Active
Exhaust Question / Replace?
Hi
Sorry everyone. I don't have 3000GT now but I want to buy. I have
been reading on the net about it for 1.5 years. I am from Lithuania and
now live in Southern California. So 3000 GT is a car I dream every day
about. I just said what I have read or heard from other owners. Probably a
lot of guys knows more than I do here. I like it stock and 91-93 is the
best for me. I don't like car modifications to much and I think that
people just spoil the car modifying it (especially 3000GT VR4). I used to
be at some slalom/drag racing in Lithuania. There was a guy from
Latvia(next country)(
http://www.3000gt.lv)
who had 3000GT with almost everything is possible to put in it. The
funniest part is that he didn't take part in the races both times for
problems with the car ! (As far as I remember the clutch one time and turbo for
the second). So I really don't think if you put 450 hp it will run without
problems everyday ! I test drive some cars around so some Americans think
that sport mode is when both exhausts are working though they had car for 10
years ! If you have any schema it would interesting to look at ! Is it on
that famous CD ?
andrius
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 20:49:30 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
I've been wondering about the increased horsepower question. If one
modifies
the engine to, say 800 horsepower, and never drops the clutch,
would the tranny
last the normal mileage lifetime? That is, if you
need to go fast, sacrifice a
few tenths of a second by letting the clutch
out normally for 1st gear, *then*
stomping the gas to the floor with the
tranny normally engaged.
Thoughts?
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 19:13:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Thomas Labonte <
tnl7455@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Metal U clip on rotors
Hello members,
I recently purchased a set of rotors from Porterfield and found that one of
the pair had a small metal 'U' clip attached to the rotor vanes. It
was attached on the inside, so if you installed the rotor, it wouldn't fly
off when driving down the road. Thinking it was useless, I took it off and
put this rotor on the front driver's side. When I got to the
passenger side I noticed the old rotor also had a similar clip. Does
anyone know what this is about? Do I need this clip? Is it a marker
to tell me whether it goes on the driver's or passenger's side? Or
is it for balance? Is the rotor going to be out of balance since I
took it off? I haven't taken it for a test spin yet due to adverse
weather conditions here in New England.
Please help.
-- Tom Labonte, '92 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 20:13:55 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Just posted this on 3SI
I sure don't see why it wouldn't last if you babied it like that. But I
suppose you're looking for a more technical answer than that. Here's more
insight on my view...
A tranny gets worn due to:
1) Launches (ouch to the #1 synchro!)
2) Engaging (shifting, esp.
without double clutching...ouch to all your
synchros)
3) Poor alignment /
loose mounts (automatic trannies shudder...wonder if manuals do as well?)
4)
Driveline lash (noted by vibration at highway speed, or driveline clunk when
going through parking lots)
Now with that in mind, 800hp would probably make you worry about points 3
and 4. You'd also worry about point 2 if you don't know double clutching
too well. I feel that the extra horsepower would give you reason to check
driveline joints and carrier bearings for play more often. Not because they'd
necessarily wear down sooner, but mostly because once they get just a tad
bit worn, they'd get trashed much quicker with that kind of stress on
them. From what I know, when your driveline has play, it clunks in one direction
when you step on the gas and clunks back when you let go. This causes more
damage if you have more power (esp. more SUDDEN power) to the wheels since
it becomes a harder clunk. This is also why some people with questionable
drivelines can drive the car very gently, and they go a long ways without
changing driveshaft bearings. (NO, I personally would not recommend this.
In fact, driveline play can quickly ruin your transfer case or
differential!)
And lastly, really pay attention to those mounts. The tranny in my Infiniti
shuddered to its death because of a bad mount.
Am I sure about all of this? Nope. But it's a start for answering your
question.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 23:35:03 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
I have to argue a few points here...
1) Launches - have nothing to do with synchronizers... The car should
already be "in gear" and just waiting for the clutch to come out.
There is no synchronizing 1st gear from a stop.
2) Amount of power a car is making has nothing to do with synchronizers or
double clutching. You are "off the gas" between shifts, or at least
you should be, so this is a moot point as well.
3) yes, this would be bad for any vehicle, causing premature wear,
regardless of HP, though high HP cars would have more abuse.
4) I agree here as well, however I don't feel lash would cause problems
because of high HP, but lash would be caused by abuse, or wear from high
HP applications.
My take on the situation: Babying it into 1st, between gears and all,
will extend the life of all the components, by not "shocking" them under
extreme quick changes of speed (dumping the clutch, etc) However,
with enough power, gears, shafts, and such can be sheared off, or overtime, they
will go through the same repetitive motion, with stock stuff, it may
survive, but with a high HP application, these are all failure
areas. Just like FWD Hondas snap axles at the track, except in our case,
we have to move a lot more weight, and we also have a lot more
traction.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 00:59:04 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: For
those who have done the '99 conversion
Okay, so I just got my baby back, and the '99 conversion looks absolutely
amazing <g>
BUT - the '99 side scoops are _huge_ compared to the old ones, and you can
see way too much in there... much more than is attractive....
Here's what I mean
the pic is 1.2 megs, so 56k warning. Scroll down to see the pass. side
duct.
Granted the foglights are out right now (I'll relocate them later) but
still... especially the vertical green piece of plastic in the middle of
the scoop...
Did you guys do something about this? Or did you just leave it as is?
Thanks for the info,
Alex.
'95 VR4
99 conversion, Blitz SBC-iD, ek2mfg EGR block off
plates, KN intake, ngk double platinums @ .032"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 23:22:21 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: For those who have done the '99 conversion
I have not done a '99 bumper yet but if I did that would be the whole
point. You take out those tiny holes and let your intercoolers breathe! If
you care or want the coolers to work even better, make/buy some ducts.
Congrats on the mod, it looks sweet! Wait, that's not Bob's car is it? jk
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 02:37:48 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Alarm/keyless entry installation.
I am going to pick up a alarm/keyless entry kit tomorrow and install it
myself. I am pretty confident that I can do this since electronics are my
specialty. The only problem I have is I don't have the wiring diagrams so
I know where to make the connections.
I have a 1992 Stealth base SOHC. It has power locks and such and I just
wanted to add a keyless entry. But basic alarms come with this so I'm just
gonna get the basic alarm too. Has anyone done a how-to? Or could point me
to some links where I could find some diagrams. Or even better maybe scan me
some pages of the services manual for the diagrams. Has anyone done this
type of installation themselves? Hard or easy? Any input would be
appreciated.
Thanks
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 01:41:08 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
For those who have done the '99 conversion
I think I will have to get the oem ducts - if you look closely, you'll see
that the intercooler takes up about half the space opened by the ducts,
the rest of it is random stuff...
How would/could I make my own?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
99 conversion, Blitz SBC-iD, ek2mfg EGR block off plates, KN intake, ngk
double platinums @ .032"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 02:11:08 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Metal U clip on rotors
Tom: most likely its for balance..but I'll find out for sure.
If you bought em straight from porterfield..you paid too much.
:)
On Thu, 26 Dec 2002, Thomas Labonte wrote:
> Hello
members,
>
> I recently purchased a set of rotors from Porterfield
and found that
> one of the pair had a small metal 'U' clip attached to
the rotor
> vanes. It was attached on the inside, so if you
installed the rotor,
> it wouldn't fly off when driving down the
road. Thinking it was
> useless, I took it off and put this rotor
on the front driver's side.
> When I got to the passenger side I
noticed the old rotor also had a
> similar clip. Does anyone know
what this is about? Do I need this
> clip? Is it a marker to
tell me whether it goes on the driver's or
> passenger's side? Or
is it for balance? Is the rotor going to be out
> of balance since
I took it off? I haven't taken it for a test spin
> yet due to
adverse weather conditions here in New England.
>
> Please
help.
>
> -- Tom Labonte, '92 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 02:13:05 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
however, additional HP WILL wear the tranny quicker, than stock HP.
Things bend, flex...sheer loads will be higher.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 01:00:41 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Just posted this on 3SI
It's my understanding that the job of the synchros are to aid in equalizing
the difference in RPM between the clutch and the tranny... e.g.. if your
engine is spinning at 2500 rpm and the tranny is spinning at 2000 when you
go into 2nd gear... the synchro helps make the shift smooth. Similarly, at
launch your tranny is at 0 rpm and you ease it in (or dump it, depending
on what car you're driving). Doesn't this use a synchro... or am I wrong?
How do we get a "smooth" start then? Because the clutch slips for awhile until
it engages? Okay, I'll stop trying to answer my own question and wait for
your response. This always confused me a bit. And I'll leave it up to you
whether to send your response to the list or not.
And regarding point #2, yes I agree with you. I was pointing out ALL of
what I feel wears out a transmission--not just what relates to changes in
HP. I should have made that clear. What I meant is that double clutching
is a good thing, whether you drive a Honda, a Lamborghini, or a 3S....
Thanks for clearing things up!
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
- -------->
1) Launches - have nothing to do with
synchronizers... The car should already be "in gear" and just
waiting for the clutch to come out. There is no synchronizing 1st
gear from a stop.
2) Amount of power a car is making has nothing to do with synchronizers or
double clutching. You are "off the gas" between shifts, or at least
you should be, so this is a moot point as well.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 07:56:52 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reverse Lights Still Off
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
Sent: Thursday,
December 26, 2002 10:43 AM
<<<SNIP>>> When the transmission is shifted into reverse
something must slide across the end of the switch, depressing the ball and
completing the electrical circuit.
That "something" is the shift fork moving your tranny into reverse gear(if
I remember right from having mine apart)
<<SNIP>>I asked the parts guy if he had heard of them going out
and he said that they occasionally go bad.
I'm on my third one since I've had my car.....
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
I have been running my '93VR4 at 12.5 psi boost with a manual controller
for 5 years. My son has been running his '93VR4 at 14.7 psi boost with a
DSBC for 6 years or so. We haven't needed to change engines yet, and have
never broken a crankshaft. Mine is now about 107K miles, his is about 120K
miles. So you, too, can make your own conclusion.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 09:04:01 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
Yes, it is the sole ability of the clutch to let things slide into first
gear smoothly...
Let me try ad explain....
There are three different moving parts in the drivetrain....
The motor, the input side of the transmission, and the output side of the
transmission.
The output side of the transmission is always spinning with the wheels on
the ground, regardless of gear or clutch position. The motor is
always spinning whatever RPM is shown on the tach. The input side of
the transmission is what gets all the abuse. Basically, when you let
out the clutch (even with the gear selector in neutral), the input side of
the transmission now matches the engine speed. Ok, now think of
this. When you are driving with the clutch in, we'll say 60 mph, and the
transmission is in neutral (coasting), and you put the gear selector into
3rd gear, even without letting the clutch out, the input side of the
transmission accelerates to match the speed of the output side so that the gears
will mesh correctly. It is the job of the synchronizers to do
this.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 07:32:15 -0800
From: "eK2mfg" <
eK2mfg@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Just posted this on 3SI...synchros and trans
I think there is more to it.......each synchro has brake rings that
actually do the speed/rpm match.....If you actually seen the tranny guts
it would make total sense. 1-2 synchro on one shaft then 3-4 on another.
Also, there are 3 shafts in the trans...5th gear is on its own...not sure about
6th for those lucky ones but I am sure it also sits on that 3rd shaft. I
got a TT Shaft assembly sitting in the garage....very sweet little toy to
play with. The synchros have like 8 parts to them. A hub and then the brake ring
inside that is rubbed by these 3 little plugs...like brake shoes? I am not
a transmission guy by no means but looking at the assembly it makes
perfect sense. so on each side of this hub you have gears...one locks in like
lets say 1st gear...then when it slides over to second this brake ring
stops the gears from spinning for it to slid over to 2nd....go to 3rd?
well you go back to the center position right before you go, so then the brake
ring stops that and the gear on the hub is not locked at all...then the
2nd shift fork(not gear) moves the 3-4 synchro into action very similar to
the 1-2 design.....haven broke down the assembly due to a stripped bolt on
the input shaft and pure laziness....but when this case was torn down from a
parts car it made total sense..the transmission myths and lore were
gone....I have an NA and will be rebuilding myself....almost impossible to
mess it up.....it's like a baby toy where you stack rings on the pole...only
cooler...then measure the end play and put in the right shims......
got off subject there sorry.......but the point was is that yes the output
shaft...number 3 is always spinning...as well as every other shaft on the
transmission...it is the synchros that hold the gear that spin or not spin
depending which gear and which shaft you forked to..... I would love to sit and
have a beer with Henry Ford...this car stuff is way cool.
bobk.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 07:36:27 -0800
From: "eK2mfg" <
eK2mfg@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Just posted this on 3SI
I know the rules here.....but can we add a small subject to the end of this
line? You guys have gone from boost to transmissions and I could care less
about boost stuff with my NA but given the very soon transmission rebuild
I will be doing I am very interested in this stuff......but the subject only
shows posted on 3si.
TIA
holy cow! I enforced a rule? what the heck is wrong with me......
bobk.
transmission post = good....boost posts = bad.....for me
anyway
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:02:22 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI...synchros and trans
There is more to it, but I was oversimplifying. My statement was a
simplified generalization so someone not knowing can "picture" it...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:29:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger L <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
For those who have done the '99 conversion
Alex, when I did this I also purchased the "fin" which
splits that area
up a little bit. Other suggestions
would be to deep clean and "oil" the black
items
behind the scoop so they look truly black and not just
dirty. I was
going to put some screen meshing in
either black or silver behind all the
openings, and I
will do this on my spyder when I convert it... the
trick
is that this is best done before installing the
bumper.
Roger
L
F15DOC
- --- Alex Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com> wrote:
> Okay, so I
just got my baby back, and the '99
> conversion looks
> absolutely
amazing <g>
>
> BUT - the '99 side scoops are _huge_ compared
to the
> old ones, and you
> can see way too much in there... much
more than is attractive....
>
> Here's what I mean
>
>
http://www.kolosy.com/pics/DSC00562.JPG>
> the pic is 1.2 megs, so 56k warning. Scroll down to
> see the
pass. side
> duct.
>
> Granted the foglights are out right
now (I'll
> relocate them later) but
> still... especially the
vertical green piece of
> plastic in the middle of
> the
scoop...
>
> Did you guys do something about this? Or did
you
> just leave it as is?
>
> Thanks for the info,
>
> Alex.
> '95 VR4
> 99 conversion, Blitz SBC-iD, ek2mfg EGR
block off
> plates, KN intake, ngk
> double platinums @ .032"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:52:39 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
For those who have done the '99 conversion
For anyone with a '99 conversion, or for that matter a true '99. If you are
in
the Portland OR area, or can get here with your '99. I'll give you a free
Drunken Bear Honeycomb Grill and install it on your vehicle (with your
assistance).
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 12:41:03 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
I came into this a bit late, but has anyone commented about the stock
clutch in this application? It is my understanding that the stock
clutch has a finite limitation regarding HP and torque. With 800hp and
a substantial increase in torque (although not mentioned, but assumed)
even 'normal' shifting could cause slippage of the clutch with maximum
throttle application ......... especially in lower gears. So, this
scenario would cause accelerated driveline wear which includes clutch
facing.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 12:58:40 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Team 3s super NA engine
Bore it yes. Probably the most power increase.
Port and polish yes, not
too horribly expensive.
Headers, downpipe, larger cat and exhaust, your
choice. There are many alternatives out there now.
Dry sump and add an oil cooler. Have not heard much in this department, but
would expect good results.
Horribly expensive. Go for more rpm.
Crank, rods, pistons, long duration
cam and springs.
Alternative to all the internal upgrade work - supercharger. Still horribly
expensive but probably more usable and reliable power improvements.
Get a better clutch/flywheel while you're there too.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark&Brenda
[mailto:mebmark@cablerocket.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 5:39
AM
Hi gang! As some of you may remember, I pulled my engine about six weeks
ago and replaced it with a used JDM engine, she is running super! I tried
to sell the old one on ebay with no luck, now I have decided to keep it.
What I want to try to do is rebuild it over the next year or two, {with your
help} I want to make it the strongest NA engine I can afford to build. It
will be a great rebuilder, it had 150000 miles on it and smoked at low rpm
and idle, but still run very strong. I'm going to start tearing it down after
the holiday's and see just what she has in her! What I want to do is port
and polish heads, intake, maybe even bigger valves, a new crank kit, bore
it to the max. I'm not sure if this is what I should do tho? That's why I
need your help. I will try to put it on a web site to show progress. I know it's
going to take some time to do, and everyone's suggestions will be greatly
appreciated, kind of a team 3s team project! So tell me what ya'll think?
Sound like a good project? TIA, Mark with the cool blue stealth NA!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:22:05 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Magnafluxing Shops and Rod Bolt ?
Does anyone know where I could send my stock rods to be magnafluxed, shot
peened, deep cryoed, 4 way balanced, and machined to accommodate a
floating wrist pin design piston?
I am in CT so the closer the better....
Also does anyone have the application/part number for ARP rod bolts for our
stock rods?
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#36
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