Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, December 26 2002 Volume
02 : Number 035
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 13:13:06 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #34
My car has been hesitating (jerking back and forth - pretty roughly at
times)
while in gear, even without any throttle. It would make a
gasping type sound
or something along those lines when this happened.
The RPMs have not been too
steady - and have been bottoming out, stalling
out the car. When the mechanic
moved the tubing around near the MAS,
there was the same kind of gasping sound
that I would hear while
driving. I'm not looking to spend very much, I just
want the car to
run - and run well at that. Thanks for the help.
Michael
> Sorry, but your mechanic told you pretty well BS ! There is no "high
> performance" mass air sensor that fits the cars ECU. You can get an
> ARC II GP Fuel Controller that comes with a larger air flow sensor and
> then generates the desired signal to the computer. But this is around
> $1000 and I doubt you want that as a simple replacement. AFAIK, a
> stock MAS is currently on auction at ebay.
>
> But is the
MAS really the problem ? Did your mechanic explain why it
> is the MAS
?
>
> Roger
> 93' and 96'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 08:26:18 -0800
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: installation of Apexi RSM
Hello all,
Merry Christmas. Just received a Apexi RSM as a present. Need help with
installation. Has anyone installed one of these before. Any tips would be
much appreciated, also how to setup it up initially as well. Does anyone
know of a website that shows how to install in a GTO. Will the check engine
light come on after install. Thanks in advance.
Joel Singh. from downunder.
92 GTO TT.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 00:45:44 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: installation of Apexi RSM
Very easy install, just follow the wiring diagram and tap into the right
wires. It will work well with the G-Sensor.
And no, it will not force the CEL if you don't cut any wires or so
:-)
Roger
93' and '96 3000GT TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 23:01:05 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Condenser Fan - Same in '92 as '97 VR4?
I bought a '97 Green VR4 three weeks ago and have a rattle coming from my
condenser fan whenever it is operating. A dealer mechanic told me
the fan is "coming off its bearings." I have a full condenser fan
assembly from a '92 VR4 -- do all the connections match my '97? I know
that the way the fans are controlled changed between the first and second
generations.
While I'm at it, are there instructions posted anywhere on replacing the
fan?
Also, I've got the leaky oil cap that's been well documented. Are
there instructions posted somewhere on changing the PCV valve? And
should I buy a replacement valve and oil cap from a dealer or will
aftermarket parts work well enough?
Finally, any recommendations on a shop/dealer that knows something about
VR4's in the Jacksonville/Northeast Florida area?
Thanks,
Ken
'97 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 10:17:27 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Condenser Fan - Same in '92 as '97 VR4?
>> ... are there instructions posted anywhere on replacing the
>> [condenser] fan
The condenser fan is the one located on the driver's side. It is easy to
remove by first removing the objects in the way, such as the front IC
pipe.
Then, mark the two electrical connectors with masking tape next to the
condenser fan (again, the one near the alternator) so you know which goes
where (actually, the two connectors *are* slightly different). Disconnect
the
two connectors by pressing on the levers and pulling up. Remove the four
10- mm bolts on the fan assembly and pull the assembly out through the
top. The
upper mounting "brackets" on the radiator for this fan have sharp
corners
which could benefit from filing at the edges. --- from my web
page:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ac-compressor.htm
>> ... I've got the leaky oil cap ....
Join the club! I have replace the PCV valve. I have added the Krank Vents.
I
added a second rubber gasket. And I still had a leaky oil cap. The cure
was
adding a third rubber gasket to the oil cap. I made it out of a truck
tire
inner tube, but any piece of rubber (or similar material) will do. I am
using
an aftermarket oil cap, so maybe only one extra rubber gasket will
work for
the stock cap. You can also buy the stock rubber gasket from the
Mitsu
dealers for a couple of dollars. Inspect your old gasket to see if it
is
hard, and if so, buy two. The oil cap is not the "breather" type and it
should fit snug to the rocker cover.
Check the PCV valve by removing it, shake it to make sure it rattles, and
blow through it to be sure air only goes through it one way (toward the
intake manifold -away from the threaded end). Add the small Krank Vent to
*guarantee* no air can enter it the wrong way. You can spray some degreaser
through the PCV valve to clean it. It just has a plunger and two springs
inside it.
Krank Vent and more info on the PCV valve:
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 10:50:44 -0500
From: "Brian Collins" <
bcturbo@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 6-speed conversion not covered under t-case recall?
Has anyone with a 6-speed conversion on their first-generation car had any
luck with getting their dealer to perform the transfer case recall?
My local Dodge dealer refuses to even inspect the transfer case because
"there is nothing they can do anyway." They said that the paperwork they
fill out for the recall calls for a part number based on the VIN
tag. If the parts they order don't match what the VIN number calls for,
then they can't get reimbursed by Chrysler. I tried calling the
Chrysler recall center but they couldn't help me either. I offered
to try and find a VIN number from a 94+ stealth for their paperwork but they
said they couldn't do that.
I probably wouldn't be too concerned except for the fact that my transfer
case is making a whining sound and I have to top off the fluid every
couple of months. I am thinking of writing a letter to the NHTSA.
Does anyone have any other advice or ideas?
Brian Collins
92 Stealth w/6-speed conversion
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 08:43:13 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Reverse Lights Still Off
I have finally fixed my reverse lights. From underneath (with the car on
jack stands I was able to unplug the harness from the reverse switch, push
the plug up (for access from above) and jumper across the plug. The reverse
lights came on. I had previously checked the fuse and bulbs, both OK. I
suspected the reverse switch. I called my Mitsubishi dealer and talked to
service, telling them what I had done and they agreed that it was the
switch (all other possible causes eliminated). I ordered one for $20 and I
finally installed it. It requires an aluminum washer (I think it is the
same one the drain plug takes). It was a snap working from underneath the
car. It takes a 15/16 inch deep socket and then a lot of hand turning (lots
of threads). The switch has a ball on the end that protrudes into the
transmission. When the transmission is shifted into reverse something must
slide across the end of the switch, depressing the ball and completing the
electrical circuit. I asked the parts guy if he had heard of them going out
and he said that they occasionally go bad.
A special thanks to Geoff Mohler for pointing out that my reverse lights
were out in the first place.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
At 02:27 PM 11/19/02 , you wrote:
>When you figure this out let us
know. I had the same problem since I
>had my car. I always assumed that
the switch inside the newly replaced
>tranny was not hooked up
right.
>
>Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 08:45:35 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: car dying
Sounds like typical IAC issues, not the ECU. Pull the IAC out of the
bottom of the Throttle body and try cleaning it (this usually net's good
results the first time).
James
95 Green VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko [mailto:alex@kolosy.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 12:28 PM
Hey all,
This is an odd one - my vr4 has this tendency sometimes where if it
sat for about an hour or so, it won't start. It never happens after a long
period of time, it never happens after a really short period of time just
if I went to the store or something - like if I'm gone for an hour or so.
What'll happen is I'll start it, and it won't idle right - it'll start,
and drop down to 3-400 rpm and hunt around and most of the time just die.
If I floor it, it'll struggle up to about 1000 and then jump up like it should.
If I catch it by flooring it, and keep it revving for a little and let off
- everything's fine.
What worries me is that it doesn't happen all the time - just
sometimes.
Is this my ecu, or what?
it's a '95 (build date of 07/94) w/ 80k and an original ECU
Alex
'95 VR4 down but not out...
------------------------------
This is a terrific description! My reverse lights are nonfunctional
on my '94 VR4. I will check this switch!
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 10:43 AM
I have finally fixed my reverse lights. From underneath (with the car on
jack stands I was able to unplug the harness from the reverse switch, push
the plug up (for access from above) and jumper across the plug. The reverse
lights came on. I had previously checked the fuse and bulbs, both OK. I
suspected the reverse switch. I called my Mitsubishi dealer and talked to
service, telling them what I had done and they agreed that it was the
switch (all other possible causes eliminated). I ordered one for $20 and I
finally installed it. It requires an aluminum washer (I think it is the
same one the drain plug takes). It was a snap working from underneath the
car. It takes a 15/16 inch deep socket and then a lot of hand turning (lots
of threads). The switch has a ball on the end that protrudes into the
transmission. When the transmission is shifted into reverse something must
slide across the end of the switch, depressing the ball and completing the
electrical circuit. I asked the parts guy if he had heard of them going out
and he said that they occasionally go bad.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:51:11 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Which Fuel Controller?
I'm looking at adding a pair of 13G Turbos, after the beginning of the
year. I
have a set of 460 injectors already, and ATR DP & 3" diam
exhaust on the way. I am looking at either an Apexi or HKS fuel
controller. I'm looking for some
input as to which of these is the better
product and why. Thanks for your help.
> Has anyone with a 6-speed conversion on their first-generation car had
> any luck with getting their dealer to perform the transfer case
> recall? My local Dodge dealer refuses to even inspect the
transfer
> case because "there is nothing they can do anyway." They
said that
> the paperwork they fill out for the recall calls for a part
number
> based on the VIN tag. If the parts they order don't match
what the
> VIN number calls for, then they can't get reimbursed by
Chrysler. I
> tried calling the Chrysler recall center but they
couldn't help me
> either. I offered to try and find a VIN number
from a 94+ stealth for
> their paperwork but they said they couldn't do
that.
>
> I probably wouldn't be too concerned except for the fact
that my
> transfer case is making a whining sound and I have to top off
the
> fluid every couple of months. I am thinking of writing a
letter to
> the NHTSA. Does anyone have any other advice or
ideas?
>
> Brian Collins
> 92 Stealth w/6-speed
conversion
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:19:19 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Which Fuel Controller?
Well the 13g turbos may not help much unless they are ported and clipped.
They are still not able to hold 1 bar to the redline.
Anyway, both AFR are fine, the HKS can much easier be mounted compared to
the Apexi. The later has more manual and display functionality while the
HKS has a MAS adaptive learning functionality. So both have their + and
-
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 11:08:53 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Snow tires
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 10:59 AM
In case you guys were wondering, I ordered 4 235/45/17 Bridgestone Blizzak
WS50s for the car. The snow performance was rated better than the LM-22 by
the survey website and by the guy I talked to from the tire place. I
realize that I'm going to get less performance on dry roads (that's apparently
the disadvantage of WS50s vs. LM-22s).
I feel good about my $600 decision based on all of your opinions, and
plus... I just didn't feel comfortable with that cumbersome 2WD van I took
to the snow last time. I also hate pulling over and freezing my .... off
while I install chains only to run back outside later on to remove them again!
And yes, regarding the safety factor, I already have experience with
expensive metal at body shops!! I'm not playing that game again.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#35
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