Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Saturday, December 21 2002  Volume 02 : Number 031
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:49:25 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Indigo gauge face?
 
Did anyone ever answer this question?
 
I am going to install Indiglo gauges this weekend......would like to know the answer to this dude's  question.
 
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 7:05 PM
 
> This is for the people that have installed the Indigo gauge face:
>
> I just installed the faces.  Before I put the Dash back on, I would
> like to know if I am suppose to take the old bulbs out.  There are
> three bulbs in the Speed/Tach gauge and there are three in the
> center gauge cluster.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:55:34 -0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Indigo gauge face?
 
You can.  When I did mine I left the bulbs in, I just dimmed the lights.  I think the one for the needle on  the speedo also lights up your mileage, so if you remove it you can't see your mileage at night. 
 
I would leave them in; there really is no need to remove them IMHO.
 
Good luck.
 
Francis
'96 RT/TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:56:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: fuel pump relay
 
I was wandering if anyone could tell me where the fuel
pump relay is located for an 93 base Stealth. I look
under the airbox as in the RT/TT but the relay is not
under the airbox.
Thanks,
Brody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 20:18:53 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel pump relay
 
Only the turbo models have the second fuel pump relay (for the resistor) in
the engine bay.
 
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumprelaybypass.htm
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:35:25 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible Electrical Issues:
 
On seeing this info I agree - A bad connection in the switch could cause your problems. I learn something  new every day. Thanks.
 
Andy
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Rod2414738@aol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 10:15 AM
 
I believe all the things he mentioned though are things that only work with the ignition switch on (I'll  have to check the mirrors over lunch).  The ETACS unit turns the lights off after the key is removed (or is  it turned off and a door open), wiper would only work with the key on, etc.  There is a "key in ignition"  signal to the ETACS from the ignition key switch that activates the chime and I believe prevents the doors  from being locked while open with the key in the ignition.  I have the diagram at home so you could probe  that line to the ETACS and see if wiggling the switch causes the level to change.  I do believe a bad  ignition key switch could cause the problems the owner is having.
 
- -Rod
'93 Stealth R/T TT
 
In a message dated 12/20/2002 10:29:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net> writes:
 
>I have had the switch out and watched as a locksmith took the whole
>thing apart. There is nothing in the switch to cause the problems you
>refer to Ryan. I have no good suggestions but things like the power
>mirrors should be pretty easy to trace. Good luck. Andy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:01:36 -0500 (EST)
From: fieroman@webtv.net (Carl Beebe)
Subject: Team3S: timing belt
 
Has anyone gone well over the 60,ooo. mile replacement.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:37:13 -0500
From: Vinny <vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
 
Hey guys,
    I have a 93VR4 with 30K on the clock.  I have noticed the right front clunking when going over bumps or  regular road humps.  I just bought the car 2 months ago so I don't know if this is a normal "Issue Item" on  our suspensions (active). Any ideas?
 
Thanks
Vinny
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:48:36 -0700
From: "Damien" <dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
 
'93 VR-4 stock except K&N and AVC-R and Autometer mech boost gauge. Perhaps those familiar with this device  can give me some tips.  Just had AVC-R professionally installed.  I have boost set to 1.0bar.  Accelerating  through any gear results in about 15lbs boost for just a moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs.  I've  tried several adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to control the boost spike.  Boost always  appears to drop to ~10lbs.  Could BOV be leaking?  Are my settings screwy?  Any help appreciated.
 
Damien
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:46:24 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
 
30k or 130K???  A car with 30k should not clunk. Was a car fax report run on this car? Andy
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Vinny" <vinman3@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 2:37 PM
 
> Hey guys,
>     I have a 93VR4 with 30K on the clock.  I have noticed the right
> front clunking when going over bumps or regular road humps.  I just
> bought the car 2 months ago so I don't know if this is a normal
> "Issue Item" on our suspensions (active). Any ideas?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:58:19 -0500
From: Vinny <vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
 
30K not 130K.
No a fax report was not done but I asked if it was ever damaged and he said no.  Whatever truth that holds I  am not sure.
 
Thanks
Vinny
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 6:46 PM
 
> 30k or 130K???  A car with 30k should not clunk. Was a car fax report
> run on this car? Andy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:27:34 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
 
Sorry to say man but from what I have read that type of behavior is typical from that unit. Maybe not to the  same degree as you, but when I was researching EBC's many people whom had one complained of 2-4PSI spikes...  They look cool though, which is why I wanted one... I hear the first Gen ones (the ones without the blue  screen) are much better.
 
Again, not personal experience, just stuff I read.
 
Check the hose/tube that goes from your Y-Pipe to the boost sensor, make sure it is not kinked. Also make  sure that this tube goes to the Y-Pipe and not the Plenum. You want the sensor to read PRE-Throttle body  reading. If its put in after the throttle body (in the plenum) you will get screwed up stuff like that. Also  make sure that your boost gauge is AFTER the throttle body, you want that to read to plenum pressure.
 
Others here can check the last paragraph for accuracy, but that is how I think its supposed to work.
 
Tyson
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damien
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 2:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
 
'93 VR-4 stock except K&N and AVC-R and Autometer mech boost gauge. Perhaps those familiar with this device  can give me some tips.  Just had AVC-R professionally installed.  I have boost set to 1.0bar.  Accelerating  through any gear results in about 15lbs boost for just a moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs.  I've  tried several adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to control the boost spike.  Boost always  appears to drop to ~10lbs.  Could BOV be leaking?  Are my settings screwy?  Any help appreciated.
 
Damien
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:29:39 -0600
From: AINut <ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: timing belt
 
I don't dare!
 
AI Nut
 
Carl Beebe wrote:
> Has anyone gone well over the 60,ooo. mile replacement.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 19:59:49 -0500
From: "Accelerated Accessories" <accelaccess@myactv.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
 
Very likely the stock bov is bypassing www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damien <dabinch@actionsd.com>
Date: Friday, December 20, 2002 5:49 PM
 
>'93 VR-4 stock except K&N and AVC-R and Autometer mech boost gauge.
>Perhaps those familiar with this device can give me some tips.  Just
>had AVC-R professionally installed.  I have boost set to 1.0bar. 
>Accelerating through any gear results in about 15lbs boost for just a
>moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs.  I've tried several
>adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to control the boost
>spike.  Boost always appears to drop to ~10lbs.  Could BOV be
> leaking?  Are my settings screwy?  Any help appreciated.
>
>Damien
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:29:45 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
 
It is not a normal thing for our cars.  It could be a blown shock.  Stand at your right front bumper and  quickly shove it down with all your weight.  If the car bounces up more than once, then your shock is bad.   If you weigh less than 150 pounds then you might want to have one of your larger friends do it for you since  our springs are pretty stiff.
 
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:23:48 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: timing belt
 
You're talking a chance, but I've seen people doing the 60K at well past 100K ---- There is no magic number  where the belt fails, 60K and a 10 year old car is worse than 60 on a 2 year old car. I think I'm pushing  mine hard --- I road race my 93 TT with about 60K on the clock. It sees lots of redline and near redline.
 
        Jim Berry ===============================================
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 00:46:03 EST
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: simple/serious problem.
 
Hi guys-
 
This is a difficult problem to explain. Imagine your door. Up at the top of
the window, toward the back, near the rubber seal, is a tiny black plastic
thing. I honestly don't know what it does. Anyway, it was somehow bent in, and
the window was getting stopped by it whenever  I would close the door. I, in
a moment of genius, decided to bend it back. Then it snapped off! But now,
since that part is gone, the window is closing and sealing correctly, at
least I hope so.
 
Do I need this black plastic thing? I'm sorry I cant explain it better guys,
but I really don't know what it is. Anyone else have this problem? If it
doesn't seal, then I am in pretty deep trouble, as the car is outside most of
the day.
 
- -mike
97 SL
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 22:02:00 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: simple/serious problem.
 
If it's what I think it is it's just a guide to force the window against the seal. without it you're likely  to get more wind noise around the window.
 
        Jim Berry ================================================
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 22:58:04 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
 
> Just had AVC-R professionally installed.  I have boost set to 1.0bar. 
> Accelerating through any gear results in about 15lbs boost for just a
> moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs.  I've tried several
> adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to control the
> boost spike.  Boost always appears to drop to ~10lbs.  Could BOV be
> leaking?  Are my settings screwy? Any help
> appreciated.
 
Make sure the stock boost control solenoid is disconnected.  If the installer somehow routed the vacuum  hoses through the stock solenoid then your car could behave like that.
 
How are your checking for your boost pressure?  In 1st and 2nd gear, you will not hold 15 psi for long if  you even make it that high.  Just not enough time for the turbos to build up the pressure.  A good test is  in 3rd gear and a clear stretch of highway.
 
If your car still does this then build a intake pressure tester and look for a leak.  This will also show  you if your BOV is leaking.  You will find instructions on Jeff's page:  www.stealth316.com.
 
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 20:18:35 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
 
> >  I have a 93VR4 with 30K on the clock.  I have noticed the
> > right front clunking when going over bumps or regular road
> > humps.
 
Mine did that until I replaced the tierod ends.
 
Steve
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:03:05 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: timing belt
 
I could give you my long horror story, or I could ask you to search the digest. But since you probably don't  want either, I'll sum it up.
 
I almost blew my engine (no kidding) because I didn't do this very important maintenance on time.
 
- ---
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
 
Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved" main and front pre-cat, 450cc  injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12 PSI, EK2 Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air Box,  S-AFC, Boost, A/F, and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP resistor bypass+hotwire, U.P. Front  and Rear S-Bars
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:09:18 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: tranny
 
tranny or transfer case? The recall is a transfer case recall. Transfer case (if anything) should be drained  just before entering the shop. Don't drain the tranny!! :O
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:07:29 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: timing question.
 
If you have aftermarket forged pistons then probably all you'll need is a valve job. If not, be prepared for  a full rebuild (valves+pistons). Most likely you bent most or all of your valves. There is no such security  measure on board.
 
- ------------------>
 
What is the chance that my engine (94 tt) is still alive.  The timing belt slipped while I was driving 80  mph, at 4000 rpm. I heard a noise for 2 sec and the car turned off.  I tried to start it but the starter  motor would spin only.  Is there any security system on the car that would protect the engine when the  timing is off.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:11:17 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Recall question
 
The recall administration keep good track of all the recalls that were done. They are directly in touch with  your local dealer. After the dealer punches in your VIN, they will know which recalls were done, even the  date on which they were performed.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:18:00 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible Electrical Issues:
 
I just got my manuals back, so today is the day to ask for me to scan a page.
 
While I'm here, let me say that I'd recommend testing to see if your ABS actually works as a safety measure.  You definitely want to know whether to pump your brakes or slam them just in case you drive through snow or  someone cuts you off.
 
Easy test. Find an open space. Slam the brakes and see if your wheels lock.
 
Yes? Pump them or use "threshold brake" in hard braking situations No? Try it a few more times. It's worth  the tire wear. Make sure it's not intermittent! We're talking about life and death here.
 
Sorry I couldn't be of assistance with the electrical issues, but good luck with them.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Coffren
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 6:01 AM
Subject: Team3S: Possible Electrical Issues:
 
Hey, '93 VR-4, 120K miles
Recent owner of this car, Had an Eclipse GSX for 4 years, traded it for an SUV, and regretted it ever since.   So, when this car became available, we got rid of the wife's car, because she likes the SUV..  anyway...
 
I found the ABS light comes on and stays on.
Unpin further investigation I noticed it only
comes on when I use the brakes while in motion.
(Suspecting a speed sensor, especially since there is
a TSB).
What is strange is that I noticed the front washer spray works until the ABS light comes on. Other things  that aren't working (Fog lights, Power mirrors, rear wiper).  With 120K miles these may be normal wear and  tear the previous owner didn't take care of.  It sat for a few months, although it was started at least once  a week.
 
There is a little play in the ignition switch, and a garage mentioned it may be the cause, but I find it  hard to believe there is any fuzzy logic in the switch that allows some things to work and others not to.
 
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ryan
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:24:38 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: Snow Tires
 
The progress of the drivetrain replacement on my baby is going well. With this in mind, I'm considering  taking her for a trip up to Lake Tahoe during the winter season. I took my rear-wheel drive van up there  last week and I was sliding all over the place!!
 
Does anyone have a good recommendation on snow tires for this car?
 
More than tires, I'm talking wheels. What width/diameter?
 
How about if I used the wheels from a base model stealth and put some snow tires on 'em? The idea is to get  less width and a smaller contact patch...so the tires 'dig' into the snow, right?
 
So I'm looking for two things: The specs of wheels and tires and ... an idea on how to get something here  without spending a whole lot of money.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
getting fixed and maybe hittin' the snow!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:59:33 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Team3S: valve lash adjuster recall - Hyundai vs. Mitsubishi/Dodge
 
>From the December 2002 issue of Popular Mechanics:
 
"Hyundai TSB 02-20-004 deals with noisy valves found in many Hyundai cars and trucks dating back to 1992.   It says to replace all the valve lash adjusters with a new type that has a larger oilhole."
 
When it comes to our cars, the problem sounds familiar, but not the recall.  :-(
 
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
http://www.the-matthews.com
 
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust  System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super  Blow-Off Valve Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90,  xfer & diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17,  Top Speed: 171 mph G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP,  354 lb-ft torque
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:07:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Snow Tires
 
Riyan,
 
   I use Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22 235/45/17 tires on mine and DesertFox uses Pirelli Scorpion tires on his  (also 17").  I think mine are the best and he thinks his are.  Well we are both right.  He drives mainly on  snow through the winter (in Montana) and I drive through slush, snow, ice, dry pavement, rain, sleet, etc.   I need something that handles more of the slush/wet environment but is also good on snow-covered hills in  and around southwestern PA as well as the hills of WV and VA.  I have never had a complaint or a situation  that the Blizzak tires could not handle.  I have been using them for 5 years on my own cars and 9 years  prior to that on my parent's cars.  Whether it was on another AWD car (Audi 5000 S Quattro) or a FWD (Honda  Accord EX) or RWD (Mercedes-Benz
190E) the Blizzaks have always been able to handle the condition.
   You'll note that my tires are a 235-width on the spare ("track") wheels.  The track tires are a 255/45/17  buy you don't want width for winter tires.  I think the idea is more of a "hydroplaning" issue but applied  to snow/ice.  The same 4,000 pounds is pushing down to four tires with, say, a contact patch of 25 square  inches but this makes only 160 psi.  If you use winter tires with a contact patch each of 12.5 square inches  (because it makes the math easier) then you instantly have 320 psi at the contact patch area.  Presto.  This  means you sink down into the snow, compact it, and drive away rather than sit on top and spin on it.
   Also, the tread pattern, material composition, etc. is extraordinary on these winter tires.  I think I  can dig up some close-up shots if anyone is interested.  Very deep tread blocks (11/32" or nearly 3/8" for  mine or 13/32 for the Blizzak WS-50) and yes it really does drive on ice like they show in the hockey rink  commercial and test.
   But I chose mine because I had a spare 17" wheel set, I needed the Blizzak tire with the large sipe down  the center to channel away water, and I was pleased with Blizzak products in the past.  I did want to look  at OEM sizing of 18" Blizzak tires (which they had available this year for about the first time) but I  already had my 17" tires from last year so that decision was simple.
   As for wheel - my 17" track wheels are the '97 SL ones so the same 8.5" I believe (or 8" at worst).  Just  remember that winter wheels go through all sorts of nasty stuff (salt, cinders, ice, freeze/thaw
cycles) and TireRack.com has some nice packages as long as they fit (for your '93 R/T TT the Blizzak LM-22  tires are $165 each and Mille Miglia rims are $200 each for a total of about $1,500 for a package but at  least it fits).  I look at it that if this $1,500 saves you ONE incident of sliding into a guardrail or  another car which would cost $1,500 in insurance claims, bumper repair, property repair - then you have  broken even.  If you use this package for two winters and no accidents then bless you.  My winter set has  more than paid for itself many times over (I attended college in blustery Erie, PA - nuf' said).
 
- --Flash!
I look FORWARD to winter driving in the VR-4
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2002 04:25
 
Does anyone have a good recommendation on snow tires for this car?
 
More than tires, I'm talking wheels. What width/diameter?
 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:54:51 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: valve lash adjuster recall - Hyundai vs. Mitsubishi/Dodge
 
A TSB isn't necessarily a recall --- the Technical Service Bulletin is primarily to help the technicians.
 
        Jim Berry
=======================================
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
 
> From the December 2002 issue of Popular Mechanics:
>
> "Hyundai TSB 02-20-004 deals with noisy valves found in many Hyundai
> cars and trucks dating back to 1992.  It says to replace all the valve
> lash adjusters with a new type that has a larger oilhole."
>
> When it comes to our cars, the problem sounds familiar, but not the
> recall.  :-(
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:08:24 -0600
From: "William Dean" <krikit@sirinet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible Electrical Issues:
 
Very interesting problems.
The most interesting thing about them, is that I am receiving the same problems with my 92 3000GT (base).  Fog lights don't work, rear windshield wiper doesn't work, ignition switch has lots of play (sometimes it'll  wanna start, sometimes it takes 10+ turns). I just had it in the shop, and they said that they couldn't find  anything wrong with the ignition switch, and that the rear windshield wiper was getting power, but wasn't  activating (So I told them to replace it, they told me they couldn't -- they said they couldn't find the  part anywhere in Lawton, OK.). Today I'm calling the dealership, I'll let you know if they see this problem  alot , or if its a cut and dry thing, in the meantime, Good Luck!
 
William Dean
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT Base
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:23:41 -0600
From: AINut <ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Snow Tires
 
  You can keep the regular wheels, they won't make a difference in traction,
except for a small contribution that's weight related.
 
For tires, I use a high performance all-season tire.  Right now I'm using
Yokohama AVS-dB, but am going to try the Sumitomo HKS+ (?) next.  The Yoko's are
all right, but some people say the Sumitomo are better.
 
AI Nut
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:55:40 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Snow Tires
 
on 12/21/02 4:07 AM, Darren Schilberg at dschilberg@pobox.com scribbled:
 
> Riyan,
>
>  I use Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22 235/45/17 tires on mine and DesertFox
> uses Pirelli Scorpion tires on his (also 17").  I think mine are the
> best and he thinks his are.  Well we are both right.  He drives mainly
> on snow through the winter (in Montana) and I drive through slush,
> snow, ice, dry pavement, rain, sleet, etc.  I need something that
> handles more
 
Actually they are Pirelli Snowsport 210 in said size. The Scorpions were Pirellis that I had on my F150 4x4  previously, more of an off-road truck tire.
 
The Blizzaks are great tires as are the Pirelli Snowsports. I concur with Darren (and his higher math  calculations) that higher profile, narrower tires are better on slick conditions. I don't have such a fancy  calculator as his so I have used the seat of my pants as the gauge. Let's put it this way - snow and ice on  the road + Kumhos = no stopping whereas I can go anywhere with snow tires on my VR-4. No studded tires are  available for our rides, at least in 17" or 18" that I know of. But the aggressive siping on the treadblocks  of either of these tires is every bit as good, except on ice or mud where the studs prevail.
 
The VR-4 is so damn heavy that it will get around better than my F150 4x4, in some instances. Definitely off  the line! BUT... You've got to know what you are doing when it comes to winter driving. You cannot stop if  you do start sliding so you prevent or totally control any sliding. Limit the use of the brakes. I never  feel the ABS kick in with my snow tires on whereas it will come on full force with the Kumhos on the slick  surfaces so that stopping becomes impossible while the brake pedal feels like a grinding sprocket gone  stripped!
 
17" is as small as it goes for VR-4s and as far as I can tell, the 235/45R17 solution is about the only one.  The 18" snow tires are more expensive and such low profiles just beg for trouble and/or destruction on  winter roads.
 
With the Kumho 245/40R18 on the summer 18" OEM chrome and the Pirelli Snowsport in a 235/45R17 on the Mille  Miglia Spyder rims, I'm on going on my 4th season. I'll get at least another 2-3 years out of the snow tires  and probably another 1-2 out of the Kumhos. The other advantage of having more than one pair of shoes at a  time for your car... The Snowsports snow little wear!
 
The other day, I had the rear end of the car break out to the left. AFAIKR, this is the only time it has  gone left instead of kicking out to the right under hard acceleration with about 6 inches of snow on top of  icy blacktop. Does the rear usually kick out one way or the other, because of the rotation of the flywheel  and driveshaft? Inquiring minds want to know...
 
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:11:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger L <yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Just posted this on 3SI
 
Here is my plan, I just sold my modded 95 VR4 to
another club member and purchased a 95 VR4 Spyder.
This car is a creampuff with 55k miles on it.
It has not had a single thing done to it before I
purchased it except for aftermarket wheels.
 
My plan:
 
There is a 4 Wheel Dyno in Redmond WA that I will use.
First I will go to the dyno for a baseline prior to
any mods.
Return to dyno after each mod.
This is going to get pricey and will take some time to accomplish but at least we will have some hard  evidence for what each mod will do.
 
My plans do not currently include new turbos, mostly
BPU stuff.
1) Aftermarket Filter: K & N FIPK or other
2) HKS Type S BOV
3) Tyson Speed Flex Downpipe
4) HKS Quad Tip Exhaust
5) Gutted Cats (doing this after the other exhaust to
look for horsepower change)
6) HKS EVC IV Boost Controller
7) eK2mfg Block Off Plate
8) eK2mfg Fuel Rail Mod
 
I would like to know if serious club members have
other suggestions or think a change in the order of
mods and dyno testing would make more sense.
 
Depending on how many dyno trips this will take I may
ask for some $1-$5 donations through my paypal to help
offset the costs of all the dyno runs. I will make all
of the data available to the club and hopefully get it
posted on a permanent site for us.
 
What are your thoughts? Willing to chip in a buck or
two for this type of data?
 
Keep this thread alive for awhile gang.
 
=====
 
Roger L
F15DOC
 Rose Bowl 2002!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:14:30 -0500 (EST)
From: fieroman@webtv.net (Carl Beebe)
Subject: Team3S: Timing belt replacement
 
I got a few responses ranging from 85-140k miles without a problem before changing belt. I would like to  hear from everyone that has had a
belt go bad & how many miles your belt had on it?
Carl Beebe
'95 3kGT  DOHC
Binghamton,NY
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #31
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