Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, December 21 2002 Volume
02 : Number 031
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:49:25 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Indigo gauge face?
Did anyone ever answer this question?
I am going to install Indiglo gauges this weekend......would like to know
the answer to this dude's question.
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Sent: Sunday,
December 15, 2002 7:05 PM
> This is for the people that have installed the Indigo gauge
face:
>
> I just installed the faces. Before I put the Dash
back on, I would
> like to know if I am suppose to take the old bulbs
out. There are
> three bulbs in the Speed/Tach gauge and there are
three in the
> center gauge cluster.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:55:34 -0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Indigo gauge face?
You can. When I did mine I left the bulbs in, I just dimmed the
lights. I think the one for the needle on the speedo also lights up
your mileage, so if you remove it you can't see your mileage at night.
I would leave them in; there really is no need to remove them IMHO.
Good luck.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:56:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: fuel pump relay
I was wandering if anyone could tell me where the fuel
pump relay is
located for an 93 base Stealth. I look
under the airbox as in the RT/TT but
the relay is not
under the airbox.
Thanks,
Brody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 20:18:53 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel pump relay
Only the turbo models have the second fuel pump relay (for the resistor) in
the engine bay.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:35:25 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Possible Electrical Issues:
On seeing this info I agree - A bad connection in the switch could cause
your problems. I learn something new every day. Thanks.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Rod2414738@aol.com>
Sent: Friday,
December 20, 2002 10:15 AM
I believe all the things he mentioned though are things that only work with
the ignition switch on (I'll have to check the mirrors over lunch).
The ETACS unit turns the lights off after the key is removed (or is it
turned off and a door open), wiper would only work with the key on, etc.
There is a "key in ignition" signal to the ETACS from the ignition key
switch that activates the chime and I believe prevents the doors from
being locked while open with the key in the ignition. I have the diagram
at home so you could probe that line to the ETACS and see if wiggling the
switch causes the level to change. I do believe a bad ignition key
switch could cause the problems the owner is having.
- -Rod
'93 Stealth R/T TT
In a message dated 12/20/2002 10:29:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, Andrew
Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
writes:
>I have had the switch out and watched as a locksmith took the whole
>thing apart. There is nothing in the switch to cause the problems you
>refer to Ryan. I have no good suggestions but things like the power
>mirrors should be pretty easy to trace. Good luck. Andy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:01:36 -0500 (EST)
From:
fieroman@webtv.net (Carl Beebe)
Subject:
Team3S: timing belt
Has anyone gone well over the 60,ooo. mile replacement.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:37:13 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
Hey guys,
I have a 93VR4 with 30K on the clock.
I have noticed the right front clunking when going over bumps or regular
road humps. I just bought the car 2 months ago so I don't know if this is
a normal "Issue Item" on our suspensions (active). Any ideas?
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:48:36 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
'93 VR-4 stock except K&N and AVC-R and Autometer mech boost gauge.
Perhaps those familiar with this device can give me some tips. Just
had AVC-R professionally installed. I have boost set to 1.0bar.
Accelerating through any gear results in about 15lbs boost for just a
moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs. I've tried several
adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to control the boost
spike. Boost always appears to drop to ~10lbs. Could BOV be
leaking? Are my settings screwy? Any help appreciated.
Damien
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:46:24 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
30k or 130K??? A car with 30k should not clunk. Was a car fax report
run on this car? Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Vinny" <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday,
December 20, 2002 2:37 PM
> Hey guys,
> I have a 93VR4 with 30K on
the clock. I have noticed the right
> front clunking when going
over bumps or regular road humps. I just
> bought the car 2 months
ago so I don't know if this is a normal
> "Issue Item" on our suspensions
(active). Any ideas?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:58:19 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
30K not 130K.
No a fax report was not done but I asked if it was ever
damaged and he said no. Whatever truth that holds I am not
sure.
Thanks
Vinny
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday,
December 20, 2002 6:46 PM
> 30k or 130K??? A car with 30k should not clunk. Was a car fax
report
> run on this car? Andy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:27:34 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
Sorry to say man but from what I have read that type of behavior is typical
from that unit. Maybe not to the same degree as you, but when I was
researching EBC's many people whom had one complained of 2-4PSI spikes...
They look cool though, which is why I wanted one... I hear the first Gen ones
(the ones without the blue screen) are much better.
Again, not personal experience, just stuff I read.
Check the hose/tube that goes from your Y-Pipe to the boost sensor, make
sure it is not kinked. Also make sure that this tube goes to the Y-Pipe
and not the Plenum. You want the sensor to read PRE-Throttle body reading.
If its put in after the throttle body (in the plenum) you will get screwed up
stuff like that. Also make sure that your boost gauge is AFTER the
throttle body, you want that to read to plenum pressure.
Others here can check the last paragraph for accuracy, but that is how I
think its supposed to work.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damien
Sent: Friday, December 20,
2002 2:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
'93 VR-4 stock except K&N and AVC-R and Autometer mech boost gauge.
Perhaps those familiar with this device can give me some tips. Just
had AVC-R professionally installed. I have boost set to 1.0bar.
Accelerating through any gear results in about 15lbs boost for just a
moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs. I've tried several
adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to control the boost
spike. Boost always appears to drop to ~10lbs. Could BOV be
leaking? Are my settings screwy? Any help appreciated.
Damien
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:29:39 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: timing belt
I don't dare!
AI Nut
Carl Beebe wrote:
> Has anyone gone well over the 60,ooo. mile
replacement.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 19:59:49 -0500
From: "Accelerated Accessories"
<
accelaccess@myactv.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damien <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Date: Friday,
December 20, 2002 5:49 PM
>'93 VR-4 stock except K&N and AVC-R and Autometer mech boost gauge.
>Perhaps those familiar with this device can give me some tips.
Just
>had AVC-R professionally installed. I have boost set to
1.0bar.
>Accelerating through any gear results in about 15lbs boost
for just a
>moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs. I've tried
several
>adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to control
the boost
>spike. Boost always appears to drop to ~10lbs.
Could BOV be
> leaking? Are my settings screwy? Any help
appreciated.
>
>Damien
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:29:45 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
It is not a normal thing for our cars. It could be a blown
shock. Stand at your right front bumper and quickly shove it down
with all your weight. If the car bounces up more than once, then your
shock is bad. If you weigh less than 150 pounds then you might want
to have one of your larger friends do it for you since our springs are
pretty stiff.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:23:48 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
timing belt
You're talking a chance, but I've seen people doing the 60K at well past
100K ---- There is no magic number where the belt fails, 60K and a 10 year
old car is worse than 60 on a 2 year old car. I think I'm pushing mine
hard --- I road race my 93 TT with about 60K on the clock. It sees lots of
redline and near redline.
Jim Berry
===============================================
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 00:46:03 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
simple/serious problem.
Hi guys-
This is a difficult problem to explain. Imagine your door. Up at the top of
the window, toward the back, near the rubber seal, is a tiny black plastic
thing. I honestly don't know what it does. Anyway, it was somehow bent in,
and
the window was getting stopped by it whenever I would close the
door. I, in
a moment of genius, decided to bend it back. Then it snapped
off! But now,
since that part is gone, the window is closing and sealing
correctly, at
least I hope so.
Do I need this black plastic thing? I'm sorry I cant explain it better
guys,
but I really don't know what it is. Anyone else have this problem? If
it
doesn't seal, then I am in pretty deep trouble, as the car is outside
most of
the day.
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 22:02:00 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
simple/serious problem.
If it's what I think it is it's just a guide to force the window against
the seal. without it you're likely to get more wind noise around the
window.
Jim Berry
================================================
------------------------------
> Just had AVC-R professionally installed. I have boost set to
1.0bar.
> Accelerating through any gear results in about 15lbs
boost for just a
> moment - boost quickly settles at 10lbs. I've
tried several
> adjustments of the duty setting, but it only seems to
control the
> boost spike. Boost always appears to drop to
~10lbs. Could BOV be
> leaking? Are my settings screwy? Any
help
> appreciated.
Make sure the stock boost control solenoid is disconnected. If the
installer somehow routed the vacuum hoses through the stock solenoid then
your car could behave like that.
How are your checking for your boost pressure? In 1st and 2nd gear,
you will not hold 15 psi for long if you even make it that high.
Just not enough time for the turbos to build up the pressure. A good test
is in 3rd gear and a clear stretch of highway.
If your car still does this then build a intake pressure tester and look
for a leak. This will also show you if your BOV is leaking.
You will find instructions on Jeff's page:
www.stealth316.com.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 20:18:35 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clunking noise on right front
> > I have a 93VR4 with 30K on the clock. I have noticed
the
> > right front clunking when going over bumps or regular
road
> > humps.
Mine did that until I replaced the tierod ends.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:03:05 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
timing belt
I could give you my long horror story, or I could ask you to search the
digest. But since you probably don't want either, I'll sum it up.
I almost blew my engine (no kidding) because I didn't do this very
important maintenance on time.
- ---
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved" main
and front pre-cat, 450cc injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12 PSI, EK2
Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air Box, S-AFC, Boost, A/F,
and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP resistor bypass+hotwire, U.P.
Front and Rear S-Bars
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:09:18 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
tranny
tranny or transfer case? The recall is a transfer case recall. Transfer
case (if anything) should be drained just before entering the shop. Don't
drain the tranny!! :O
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:07:29 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
timing question.
If you have aftermarket forged pistons then probably all you'll need is a
valve job. If not, be prepared for a full rebuild (valves+pistons). Most
likely you bent most or all of your valves. There is no such security
measure on board.
- ------------------>
What is the chance that my engine (94 tt) is still alive. The timing
belt slipped while I was driving 80 mph, at 4000 rpm. I heard a noise for
2 sec and the car turned off. I tried to start it but the starter
motor would spin only. Is there any security system on the car that would
protect the engine when the timing is off.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:11:17 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Recall question
The recall administration keep good track of all the recalls that were
done. They are directly in touch with your local dealer. After the dealer
punches in your VIN, they will know which recalls were done, even the date
on which they were performed.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:18:00 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Possible Electrical Issues:
I just got my manuals back, so today is the day to ask for me to scan a
page.
While I'm here, let me say that I'd recommend testing to see if your ABS
actually works as a safety measure. You definitely want to know whether to
pump your brakes or slam them just in case you drive through snow or
someone cuts you off.
Easy test. Find an open space. Slam the brakes and see if your wheels
lock.
Yes? Pump them or use "threshold brake" in hard braking situations No? Try
it a few more times. It's worth the tire wear. Make sure it's not
intermittent! We're talking about life and death here.
Sorry I couldn't be of assistance with the electrical issues, but good luck
with them.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Coffren
Sent: Friday,
December 20, 2002 6:01 AM
Subject: Team3S: Possible Electrical Issues:
Hey, '93 VR-4, 120K miles
Recent owner of this car, Had an Eclipse GSX
for 4 years, traded it for an SUV, and regretted it ever since. So,
when this car became available, we got rid of the wife's car, because she likes
the SUV.. anyway...
I found the ABS light comes on and stays on.
Unpin further investigation
I noticed it only
comes on when I use the brakes while in
motion.
(Suspecting a speed sensor, especially since there is
a
TSB).
What is strange is that I noticed the front washer spray works until
the ABS light comes on. Other things that aren't working (Fog lights,
Power mirrors, rear wiper). With 120K miles these may be normal wear
and tear the previous owner didn't take care of. It sat for a few
months, although it was started at least once a week.
There is a little play in the ignition switch, and a garage mentioned it
may be the cause, but I find it hard to believe there is any fuzzy logic
in the switch that allows some things to work and others not to.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ryan
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:24:38 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: Snow
Tires
The progress of the drivetrain replacement on my baby is going well. With
this in mind, I'm considering taking her for a trip up to Lake Tahoe
during the winter season. I took my rear-wheel drive van up there last
week and I was sliding all over the place!!
Does anyone have a good recommendation on snow tires for this car?
More than tires, I'm talking wheels. What width/diameter?
How about if I used the wheels from a base model stealth and put some snow
tires on 'em? The idea is to get less width and a smaller contact
patch...so the tires 'dig' into the snow, right?
So I'm looking for two things: The specs of wheels and tires and ... an
idea on how to get something here without spending a whole lot of
money.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
getting fixed and maybe hittin' the
snow!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:59:33 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: valve lash adjuster recall - Hyundai vs. Mitsubishi/Dodge
>From the December 2002 issue of Popular Mechanics:
"Hyundai TSB 02-20-004 deals with noisy valves found in many Hyundai cars
and trucks dating back to 1992. It says to replace all the valve
lash adjusters with a new type that has a larger oilhole."
When it comes to our cars, the problem sounds familiar, but not the
recall. :-(
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy) Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
171 mph G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:07:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Snow Tires
Riyan,
I use Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22 235/45/17 tires on mine and
DesertFox uses Pirelli Scorpion tires on his (also 17"). I think
mine are the best and he thinks his are. Well we are both right. He
drives mainly on snow through the winter (in Montana) and I drive through
slush, snow, ice, dry pavement, rain, sleet, etc. I need something
that handles more of the slush/wet environment but is also good on snow-covered
hills in and around southwestern PA as well as the hills of WV and
VA. I have never had a complaint or a situation that the Blizzak
tires could not handle. I have been using them for 5 years on my own cars
and 9 years prior to that on my parent's cars. Whether it was on
another AWD car (Audi 5000 S Quattro) or a FWD (Honda Accord EX) or RWD
(Mercedes-Benz
190E) the Blizzaks have always been able to handle the
condition.
You'll note that my tires are a 235-width on the
spare ("track") wheels. The track tires are a 255/45/17 buy you
don't want width for winter tires. I think the idea is more of a
"hydroplaning" issue but applied to snow/ice. The same 4,000 pounds
is pushing down to four tires with, say, a contact patch of 25 square
inches but this makes only 160 psi. If you use winter tires with a contact
patch each of 12.5 square inches (because it makes the math easier) then
you instantly have 320 psi at the contact patch area. Presto.
This means you sink down into the snow, compact it, and drive away rather
than sit on top and spin on it.
Also, the tread pattern,
material composition, etc. is extraordinary on these winter tires. I think
I can dig up some close-up shots if anyone is interested. Very deep
tread blocks (11/32" or nearly 3/8" for mine or 13/32 for the Blizzak
WS-50) and yes it really does drive on ice like they show in the hockey
rink commercial and test.
But I chose mine because I had a
spare 17" wheel set, I needed the Blizzak tire with the large sipe down
the center to channel away water, and I was pleased with Blizzak products in the
past. I did want to look at OEM sizing of 18" Blizzak tires (which
they had available this year for about the first time) but I already had
my 17" tires from last year so that decision was simple.
As for
wheel - my 17" track wheels are the '97 SL ones so the same 8.5" I believe (or
8" at worst). Just remember that winter wheels go through all sorts
of nasty stuff (salt, cinders, ice, freeze/thaw
cycles) and TireRack.com has
some nice packages as long as they fit (for your '93 R/T TT the Blizzak
LM-22 tires are $165 each and Mille Miglia rims are $200 each for a total
of about $1,500 for a package but at least it fits). I look at it
that if this $1,500 saves you ONE incident of sliding into a guardrail or
another car which would cost $1,500 in insurance claims, bumper repair, property
repair - then you have broken even. If you use this package for two
winters and no accidents then bless you. My winter set has more than
paid for itself many times over (I attended college in blustery Erie, PA - nuf'
said).
- --Flash!
I look FORWARD to winter driving in the VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Saturday,
December 21, 2002 04:25
Does anyone have a good recommendation on snow tires for this car?
More than tires, I'm talking wheels. What width/diameter?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:54:51 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
valve lash adjuster recall - Hyundai vs. Mitsubishi/Dodge
A TSB isn't necessarily a recall --- the Technical Service Bulletin is
primarily to help the technicians.
Jim
Berry
=======================================
> From the December 2002 issue of Popular Mechanics:
>
>
"Hyundai TSB 02-20-004 deals with noisy valves found in many Hyundai
>
cars and trucks dating back to 1992. It says to replace all the valve
> lash adjusters with a new type that has a larger oilhole."
>
> When it comes to our cars, the problem sounds familiar, but not the
> recall. :-(
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:08:24 -0600
From: "William Dean" <
krikit@sirinet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Possible Electrical Issues:
Very interesting problems.
The most interesting thing about them, is
that I am receiving the same problems with my 92 3000GT (base). Fog lights
don't work, rear windshield wiper doesn't work, ignition switch has lots of play
(sometimes it'll wanna start, sometimes it takes 10+ turns). I just had it
in the shop, and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong with the
ignition switch, and that the rear windshield wiper was getting power, but
wasn't activating (So I told them to replace it, they told me they
couldn't -- they said they couldn't find the part anywhere in Lawton,
OK.). Today I'm calling the dealership, I'll let you know if they see this
problem alot , or if its a cut and dry thing, in the meantime, Good
Luck!
William Dean
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT Base
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:23:41 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Snow Tires
You can keep the regular wheels, they won't make a difference in
traction,
except for a small contribution that's weight related.
For tires, I use a high performance all-season tire. Right now I'm
using
Yokohama AVS-dB, but am going to try the Sumitomo HKS+ (?) next.
The Yoko's are
all right, but some people say the Sumitomo are better.
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:55:40 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Snow Tires
> Riyan,
>
> I use Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22
235/45/17 tires on mine and DesertFox
> uses Pirelli Scorpion tires on
his (also 17"). I think mine are the
> best and he thinks his
are. Well we are both right. He drives mainly
> on snow
through the winter (in Montana) and I drive through slush,
> snow, ice,
dry pavement, rain, sleet, etc. I need something that
> handles
more
Actually they are Pirelli Snowsport 210 in said size. The Scorpions were
Pirellis that I had on my F150 4x4 previously, more of an off-road truck
tire.
The Blizzaks are great tires as are the Pirelli Snowsports. I concur with
Darren (and his higher math calculations) that higher profile, narrower
tires are better on slick conditions. I don't have such a fancy calculator
as his so I have used the seat of my pants as the gauge. Let's put it this way -
snow and ice on the road + Kumhos = no stopping whereas I can go anywhere
with snow tires on my VR-4. No studded tires are available for our rides,
at least in 17" or 18" that I know of. But the aggressive siping on the
treadblocks of either of these tires is every bit as good, except on ice
or mud where the studs prevail.
The VR-4 is so damn heavy that it will get around better than my F150 4x4,
in some instances. Definitely off the line! BUT... You've got to know what
you are doing when it comes to winter driving. You cannot stop if you do
start sliding so you prevent or totally control any sliding. Limit the use of
the brakes. I never feel the ABS kick in with my snow tires on whereas it
will come on full force with the Kumhos on the slick surfaces so that
stopping becomes impossible while the brake pedal feels like a grinding sprocket
gone stripped!
17" is as small as it goes for VR-4s and as far as I can tell, the
235/45R17 solution is about the only one. The 18" snow tires are more
expensive and such low profiles just beg for trouble and/or destruction on
winter roads.
With the Kumho 245/40R18 on the summer 18" OEM chrome and the Pirelli
Snowsport in a 235/45R17 on the Mille Miglia Spyder rims, I'm on going on
my 4th season. I'll get at least another 2-3 years out of the snow tires
and probably another 1-2 out of the Kumhos. The other advantage of having more
than one pair of shoes at a time for your car... The Snowsports snow
little wear!
The other day, I had the rear end of the car break out to the left. AFAIKR,
this is the only time it has gone left instead of kicking out to the right
under hard acceleration with about 6 inches of snow on top of icy
blacktop. Does the rear usually kick out one way or the other, because of the
rotation of the flywheel and driveshaft? Inquiring minds want to
know...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:11:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger L <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Just
posted this on 3SI
Here is my plan, I just sold my modded 95 VR4 to
another club member and
purchased a 95 VR4 Spyder.
This car is a creampuff with 55k miles on
it.
It has not had a single thing done to it before I
purchased it except
for aftermarket wheels.
My plan:
There is a 4 Wheel Dyno in Redmond WA that I will use.
First I will go
to the dyno for a baseline prior to
any mods.
Return to dyno after each
mod.
This is going to get pricey and will take some time to accomplish but at
least we will have some hard evidence for what each mod will do.
My plans do not currently include new turbos, mostly
BPU stuff.
1)
Aftermarket Filter: K & N FIPK or other
2) HKS Type S BOV
3) Tyson
Speed Flex Downpipe
4) HKS Quad Tip Exhaust
5) Gutted Cats (doing this
after the other exhaust to
look for horsepower change)
6) HKS EVC IV Boost
Controller
7) eK2mfg Block Off Plate
8) eK2mfg Fuel Rail Mod
I would like to know if serious club members have
other suggestions or
think a change in the order of
mods and dyno testing would make more
sense.
Depending on how many dyno trips this will take I may
ask for some $1-$5
donations through my paypal to help
offset the costs of all the dyno runs. I
will make all
of the data available to the club and hopefully get
it
posted on a permanent site for us.
What are your thoughts? Willing to chip in a buck or
two for this type
of data?
Keep this thread alive for awhile gang.
=====
Roger L
F15DOC
Rose Bowl 2002!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:14:30 -0500 (EST)
From:
fieroman@webtv.net (Carl Beebe)
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt replacement
I got a few responses ranging from 85-140k miles without a problem before
changing belt. I would like to hear from everyone that has had a
belt
go bad & how many miles your belt had on it?
Carl Beebe
'95 3kGT
DOHC
Binghamton,NY
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#31
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