Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, December 16
2002 Volume 02 : Number 026
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 00:29:40 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
Hi everyone,
How are you? I've been having quite a time trying to get my car in
shape - a
faulty ECU diagnosed with your help started this thing. I
replaced the ECU
with a remanufactured one but the car still wasn't all
better. The car started
jerking pretty hard and the check engine light
came on. I found a mechanic who
seems to know how to work on cars
pretty well - he replaced the throttle
position sensor and also changed the
spark plugs and wires (it's a '91 stealth
R/T with 50k miles). Well,
it's definitely running better, but the car
jerks/hesitates when in gear
without any throttle. If I take the car out of
gear it doesn't
hesitate. It's also been idling high (~2000 RPM) when I start
the car
up. I live in Atlanta - the temperatures have been as low as the upper
20's lately and usually around 50. Any ideas?
Thanks again for the help.
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 23:50:38 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transfer Case Success
Surprising to me was the Safety Recall Notification letter that arrived in
my mailbox this week from Mitsubishi . I was moderately impressed
they found me but I suppose for a safety recall they have to try and
search out owners though each State's motor vehicle registration data.
Andy, I presume you will soon receive a letter as well.
Dan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday,
December 13, 2002 4:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case Success
Hey Guys - Were it not for the great updates this list provides I would not
have known of the transfer case recall. I just came back from the dealer.
They will be installing a brand new case for me at no charge to me. I need
to return in a week when the part arrives but that does not bother me one bit.
Anyone know how much dealers usually charge for replacing the transfer
case?
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 00:40:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
Michael,
Please describe the situation in more
detail
please.
Brody
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:34:17 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
idle control motor (ISC?)
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:59:04 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: I'm back, what the heck is THIS??
Ok....some of you guys recognize me....the guy that's been working on his
car FOREVER. Well....money and time are related. I've had
little of either of late. HOWEVER, I'm really, truly honestly, ALMOST
DONE(4 years later) and need help.
When I ripped the car apart several years ago, I took time and care to tag
just about everything I took off of it so I would know what it was, no
matter HOW long it took me to get it back in one piece.
This is NOT one of those pieces....
WHAT THE HECK IS THIS?!?!
any help is greatly appreciated.
....and if I have to take the front manifold offa that damn block ONE MORE
TIME.....
- -Jeff Crabtree
2K Wrangler TJ Sport(the
workhorse)
'91 Stealth R/T TT (still holding the garage floor
down)
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:30:07 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
Thanks for the reply. When I start the car it starts right up, but
the engine
is idling between 1800 and 2000 RPM. Also, when I put the
car in gear or
change gears before it's warmed up, the gears grind.
While driving the car
jerks back and forth pretty roughly when a gear is
selected and the gas pedal
is not pressed at all. However, if I take
the car out of gear, then the
jerking goes away. The car sometimes
hesitates a little when I give it gas (again like a jerky
acceleration. The plugs and wires were just changed as
well as the
throttle position sensor.
Thanks again,
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:31:51 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
would the idle control motor affect the engine all the time while driving
(causing this hesitation)?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:22:32 -0800
From: "Raleigh" <
raleigh@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: alignment
Can anyone recommend a good alignment shop in the SoCal area, ideally San
Diego? My '92 R/T TT pulls to the left, and I haven't been able to find an
alignment shop here in the San Diego area that could identify the problem.
I don't think the shops I've taken it to have 4-wheel alignment equipment. I'm
not sure that it's an alignment problem, I suspect it may be a bad strut
or some other worn suspension component. I can hear a muffled knocking
sound coming from the front when going over a speed bump or pothole, but I don't
know that it's related to the pulling. I've replaced the tires, so I know
it's not related to tire wear.
Can anyone recommend a good shop here in this area that has 4 wheel
alignment equipment, and ideally has experience working with our 3S 4WS
suspension?
Thanks,
Raleigh
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <
whutzdat@adelphia.net>
Sent:
Friday, December 13, 2002 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment
> Johns alignment shop Gloucester, Massachusetts. 978-282-.0055.
Best
> there is around. Price 50.00 4 wheel alignment. Don't
know if any of
> you have heard of Cape Ann Auto Body? If not, they
refer there cars
> to Johns alignment shop. People from all over
the world ship there
> Gullwings and all other exotic cars there for full
restoration. Cars
> from there have won the Concourse in California..
Million dollar cars
> being sent to Johns alignment shop---you know he is
good.. He also
> does all the work himself.. Hope this helps someone
out
>
>
Jack
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:08:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
Michael,
Have you done any clutch work? Also have
you
adjusted the clutch? It sounds like that may be a
problem or it could
possibly be the something with the
idle. How does it idle when warm?
Brody
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:28:46 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
alignment
Can't help with San Diego, but I know a place in South Orange county. Bymar
Tire in Mission Viejo [ near Interstate 5 and Alicia Pky ] does my
alignment
work and they really seem to know their stuff. Sounds like you
might have a
problem with the bearing at the top of the strut --- a bad
bearing can cause
noises and movement in the strut.
Bymar Tire And Brake 949-768-7381
25631 Taladro
Mission
Viejo,
ca
92691
Jim Berry
> Can anyone recommend a good alignment shop in the SoCal area, ideally
> San Diego? My '92 R/T TT pulls to the left, and I haven't been able to
> find an alignment shop here in the San Diego area that could identify
> the problem. I don't think the shops I've taken it to have 4-wheel
> alignment equipment. I'm not sure that it's an alignment problem, I
> suspect it may be a bad strut or some other worn suspension component.
> I can hear a muffled knocking sound coming from the front when going
> over a speed bump or pothole, but I don't know that it's related to
> the pulling. I've replaced the tires, so I know it's not related to
> tire wear.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 04:45:22 +0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
What ever happened to this? Is it still being looked into? I'd
definitely love to see a new tranny for our cars... one that actually can
handle the torque/power. I'm having issues with my tranny, and I'd
certainly be willing to pay the extra green for something that works the
way it's really supposed to, and not a quick-solution to the
problem.
On another note, what's the deal with the transfer-case recall? I
went into my local satan and they saw the recall, but said nothing was
issued as a fix?
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Date: Fri, 10 May
2002 12:21:31 -0700
Subject: Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII
offered...
I got this email today from Chris Fisher, Pres of PowerHausII
Best, --Forrest
- ---------------------------
Dear Friends-
I was referred to this Web Site by Matt at Dynamic Racing.
My company, PowerHaus II, is the leading company in the world regarding
variety and quantity of special gear ratios for Porsche gearboxes.
Cars with our gears have won in class at the 12 Hours of Sebring, 24 Hours
of Daytona, Petit LeMans, numerous Club and Historic events, and have seen
top finishes at the 24 Hours of LeMans in the Courage Porsches, with one
car being driven by Mario and Michael Andretti.
We also have made and are making race and performance ratios for BMW and
Subaru WRX cars, and may shortly being going into Nissan gears.
I have a highly developed 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo, which I converted to the
six speed gearbox when it became available, and have considered making a
close ratio gear stack for it. After talking with Matt, who was
excited to hear about this, I thought it would be good to get some
feedback from other owners.
I have analyzed the gearing for the six speed, where I will put my main
focus, and there is room for vast improvement. Correct gearing would make
these cars MUCH faster and a lot more enjoyable to drive.
A proper gearbox will cost between $ 7000 and $ 8000, depending on how the
final gear stack comes out.
For quarter mile, quick street use, roadracing and top speed runs, everyone
will be able to benefit big-time from what we can build.
Please respond to me if you could be serious about such a gearbox.
Thank you
Chris Fisher
President, PowerHaus II
------------------------------
At 11:22 AM 12/15/02 -0800, Raleigh wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a
good alignment shop in the SoCal area, ideally
>San Diego? My '92 R/T TT
pulls to the left, and I haven't been able to
>find an alignment shop
here in the San Diego area that could identify
>the problem.
Use some old rally tricks while you look for a shop.
We'd do all these things if we knocked the car out of alignment on a
rockadillo, bunyip crossing or strut buster.
Get someone to stand behind the car off to the side whilst you drive it
slowly forward in a straight line on a flat surface, such as a lined
parking lot. Drive with both left side wheels on the line, if you can.
Both wheels should look like they are tracking straight on. If the left
side looks correct, back it up and try it from the right side. If you have
a severe problem, you should be able to see one of the wheels either toed
in or out.
You can also do the visual check on the highway. Have a buddy drive while
you follow along behind on a flat, 4-lane highway. Have him put the left
side wheels on the center stripe. Check for visual alignment of the front
and rear wheels. Then, have him move to the left lane and put the right side
wheels on the center stripe (I guess a two-way radio would help here). If
one wheel is off, the car will be crabbing sideways a little, and you can
see it. You may not be able to figure out which one is off, but you will KNOW
that one of them is. When a car pulls like yours does, you should be able
to see it from a following car.
Here's how to do a quick, 5-minute check for alignment:
1. Drive the car absolutely dead straight into the garage.
2. Eyeball down the side of the car from the front tire to the rear and
vice versa. Make sure one of the front tires is pointing dead straight
ahead. Now check the other side to see if it, too, is pointing straight
ahead (note that the track in front is one inch narrower in the front than in
the rear, so the front tires will appear to be inset a little. Note to
racers: Spacers cure this.).
If the left tire is pointing straight, and the right one is pointing in or
out, then you have a problem. It can be on either side.
3. Lay a carpenter's level on the left wheel to see how far off of straight
up and down it is. Compare that to the right wheel. This checks camber.
Both wheels should be identical -- either straight up and down or the same
+ or - amount. Different camber settings could cause a problem. At least you'll
know that something is off, and can tell an alignment shop. If you are
mechanically inclined, you can adjust camber. Check the shop manual.
4. Now for toe. With the car still on the garage floor (don't jack it up!),
measure the exact distance from the center of the right front tire (in the
front) to the center of the left front tire in the front. Use a steel
carpenter's tape.
Repeat the measurement in the rear of the front tires. Measure in exactly
the same place on the tires, front and rear. Compare and contrast.
If the measurements are exactly the same, your car has zero toe.
If the
measurements are larger in front than in the rear, one wheel or both are toed
out (+).
If the measurements are larger in the rear than in the front, one
wheel or both are toed in (-).
You can either carry this information to the front end shop, or adjust it
out yourself.
5. Adjust the toe by adjusting the tie rod ends. Look for a loose end or a
bent tie rod, which may be the cause of your problem. If so, go buy a new
one. Adjust the tie rod ends until the front and rear tire width
measurements are exactly the same. You now have zero toe, which should keep you
going until you find a front end shop that can do a proper alignment. I
don't know what the stock settings are, but I run +0.10 on mine for racing
purposes.
6. If you can't find a problem in the front tires, try the same procedure
in the rear. Toe adjustment in the rear is done at the four-wheel
steering.
While none of this is exact, it works well enough to keep a rally car going
through the North Woods when garage facilities are not available. Some
guys used to carry a marked wooden rod -- sorta like a broomstick or a
long yardstick -- that was calibrated for what their toe should be. Their
service crew could check alignment in 30 seconds or so.
I've also used this technique to temporarily align the rally car after
doing mods to the front end (new struts and springs).
You really need to find an alignment shop, even if adjustment seems to cure
your problem. Alignment is a tricky deal, especially on our cars, which
need a 4 wheel alignment. If you are ever lucky enough to watch a really
good tech adjust our alignment, you'll see how sensitive everything is, and how
difficult it is to bring everything together. Therefore, it's possible
that you can completely screw up the whole thing. I'd mark where the
settings are before you change anything, and if it's worse after you adjust
stuff, put it back to where it was.
At the very least, making these measurements will let you go to the
alignment shop and tell them what you found. "Look pal, the right front
wheel is toed in, and that's probably why it's pulling to the left," or
something like that.
If none of these quickie alignment measurements or visual inspections turn
up anything amiss, then I'd look at the tires. Check for a busted steel
belt or any weird wear patterns. Inspect every tire for any abnormality. A
bad tire anywhere on the car can make it pull. If you suspect a tire, swap it
side to side to see if the car starts pulling in the other direction.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:37:40 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
AFAIK, Chris never got any inquiries about the custom gearbox he offered.
I've seen him at the area tracks a couple of times (he races his Porsche),
and he never mentioned any more about it, so I guess he got little or no
response from Team3S folks. If people are still interested, they should
contact him directly at his website
www.PowerHaus.com, out of Scottsdale.
If there is new interest in this, I'll be seeing him at Sears Point in
early Feb, when the NorCal racing season starts up again. I can talk it up
with him and ask whatever questions you might have... This guy is
the real deal, and does impressive work. We have some pix of his
Porsche Turbo-S from Laguna Seca up on our site:
www.Team3S.com/PowerHausII/Laguna052601.htm
Best,
Forrest
> What ever happened to this? Is it still being looked into?
I'd
> definitely love to see a new tranny for our cars... one
that
> actually can handle the torque/power. I'm having issues with
my
> tranny, and I'd certainly be willing to pay the extra green
for
> something that works the way it's really supposed to, and not
a
> quick-solution to the problem.
>
-
----------snip--------->
> John
> 1994 3000GT
VR-4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Forrest"
<
bf@bobforrest.com>
> Date:
Fri, 10 May 2002 12:21:31 -0700
> I got this email today from Chris
Fisher, Pres of PowerHausII Best,
> --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:52:07 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
Idling at 2000 rpms on a 20 degree day is not unusual. What would
be
unusual is if the idle stayed that way after the engine was warmed
up.
The jerking when in gear could be caused by worn or loose drive
line
components. Things like worn engine mounts or loose driveline
bearings can
do this. Too much play in the driveline will do
this. What happens is
this: When you drive with the throttle
open, the load is pulling the car
forward and all the slack in the driveline
is taken up. When you take your
foot off the throttle there is a split
second where the driveline changes
from pulling your car forward to pushing
it back with resistance from the
engine. If there is play in your
driveline, then it will jerk your car. If
there is a lot of play then
it will have a rubber band like effect. Your
car will jerk when you
slow down and it hits the rear limit, then the engine
will pull it forward
and it will jerk again when it hits the front limit,
then it will hit the
front limit of the driveline play and jerk again, then
it will hit the rear
limit and the engine will pull it forward again etc.
Driveline play may not be the exact problem but it is a possibility.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:25:42 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
There's always interest until you mention price --- everybody wants one if
they cost
$100 but as soon as you mention $8000 the labored breathing begins.
I think you'd
have to be a hard core racer to spend 8 large on a tranny ---
that's 4 rebuilt units.
It would still be interesting to find out if he did
any further checking though.
Jim berry
> AFAIK, Chris never got any inquiries about the custom gearbox he
offered.
> I've seen him at the area tracks a couple of times (he races
his Porsche), and
> he never mentioned any more about it, so I guess he
got little or no response
> from Team3S folks. If people are still
interested, they should contact him
> directly at his website
www.PowerHaus.com, out of Scottsdale.
If there is new
> interest in this, I'll be seeing him at Sears Point in
early Feb, when the
> NorCal racing season starts up again. I can
talk it up with him and ask
> whatever questions you might have...
This guy is the real deal, and does
> impressive work. We have some
pix of his Porsche Turbo-S from Laguna Seca up
> on our site:
>
www.Team3S.com/PowerHausII/Laguna052601.htm>
> Best,
> Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 17:38:15 -0500
From: "Rodriguez,
Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost Controller and gauges
Almost two weeks after my accident and I still haven't gotten the
wreckage
back yet. I haven't been able to contact the shop that has it
by phone.
I've been real busy with term-ends so I haven't had a chance to go
out there
in person (that, and I don't have a ride out there either :(
). Anyways,
though I don't remember seeing the car after the accident,
my buddy who was
riding with me says it looked pretty totaled so I'm not
keeping any high
hopes that I will be able to repair it. That said, I have a
couple of parts
that I never got around to installing that I want to
sell.
Turbo XS Manual Boost Controller. Go here to see a pretty good
description.
That website has it listed at $239 but I only paid $220 I think.
Regardless,
first $170 OBO takes it.
http://www.fastwrx.com/turxsdualboo.html
I also have a set of white face neon-lit gauges. There are 6 gauge faces
in
total (speed, tach, fuel, oil, boost, and temp) plus the neon light kit.
I
got these as a present but never got around to installing them nor do I
know
how much they cost. They are the ones that have "GTO" on the
tachometer
gauge. Best offer gets them.
As far as parts off the car itself, I'm gonna wait until I see the extent
of
the damage and whether it would be worth repairing ( I doubt). I don't
have
the time, tools, or space to part the car out so if I do decide to part
it
out I'm probably gonna have to sell the entire thing. Maybe a group of
you
who needs parts can chip in and buy it and take what you need from it
before
sending to the junk yard. The engine had a brand new block installed
with
only about 5K miles on it so the engine itself will be a good thing to
have
if it wasn't damaged. But I'm getting a little ahead of myself here.
For
now, only the two things above are for sale for sure.
- -E.RDZ
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:05:17 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Indiglo gauge face?
This is for the people that have installed the Indiglo gauge face:
I just installed the faces. Before I put the Dash back on, I would
like to
know if I am suppose to take the old bulbs out. There are three
bulbs in
the Speed/Tach gauge and there are three in the center gauge
cluster.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:41:35 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
... and the silence is deafening
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
Sent: Wednesday, December
11, 2002 8:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot
please?
I bought one from mitsupartsdirect.com and I think it is faulty.
According
to the manual, you are supposed to be able to push the screw in,
then cover
the vacuum outlet nipple and then the screw is not supposed to
come back out
or the diaphragm is damaged. My newly purchased one comes
back 90% of the
way. Does this mean it's bad, or is it ok as long as it
doesn't come back
all the way?
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
It's the weekend. Wait'll everybody gets back to work. I guess only about
10% of the wizards are available on weekends.
I'd help, but I have no idea what you are talking about. Engine stuff is
not my area of expertise. Nothing really is, I guess.
Rich
I At 08:41 PM 12/15/02 -0500, Bill vp wrote:
>... and the silence is
deafening
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:02:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
I agree. Wait until Monday. I have no idea what it is
that you are
talking about or I would try to help.
Sorry,
Brody
- --- "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net"
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> It's the weekend. Wait'll everybody gets back to
> work. I
guess only about 10% of the wizards are
> available on weekends.
>
I'd help, but I have no idea what you are talking
> about. Engine stuff is
not my area of expertise.
> Nothing really is, I guess.
> Rich
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:56:07 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree"
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: alignment
Quite a few years ago, I purchased a "LIFETIME" alignment from
firestone
service centers that was good nationwide at ANY location, and you
can use it
as much or as little as you want. I believe it was around
$140. Even if
you get a boob that doesn't know what he's doing, you can
go to another
Firestone for free and have them look at it.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Raleigh
Sent: Sunday, December 15,
2002 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment
Can anyone recommend a good alignment shop in the SoCal area,
<<SNIP>>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 04:55:18 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
I appreciate the wishing to help. I originally posted the question
on
Wednesday. I was just sort of making a reply in case someone missed
it, and
could help me. The dashpot is a copper colored contraption that
connects to
the back of the throttle body and has a ufo-shaped disc on one
side and a
screw with a flexible short black plastic-hose-like thing on the
other. I
attached the original question describing the testing
methodology, to the
bottom.
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#26
**************************************
