Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Monday, December 16 2002   Volume 02 : Number 026
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 00:29:40 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
 
Hi everyone,
 
How are you?  I've been having quite a time trying to get my car in shape - a
faulty ECU diagnosed with your help started this thing.  I replaced the ECU
with a remanufactured one but the car still wasn't all better.  The car started
jerking pretty hard and the check engine light came on.  I found a mechanic who
seems to know how to work on cars pretty well - he replaced the throttle
position sensor and also changed the spark plugs and wires (it's a '91 stealth
R/T with 50k miles).  Well, it's definitely running better, but the car
jerks/hesitates when in gear without any throttle.  If I take the car out of
gear it doesn't hesitate.  It's also been idling high (~2000 RPM) when I start
the car up.  I live in Atlanta - the temperatures have been as low as the upper
20's lately and usually around 50.  Any ideas?
 
Thanks again for the help.
 
Michael
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 23:50:38 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer Case Success
 
Surprising to me was the Safety Recall Notification letter that arrived in my mailbox this week from  Mitsubishi .  I was moderately impressed they found me but I suppose for a safety recall they have to try  and search out owners though each State's motor vehicle registration data.
 
Andy, I presume you will soon receive a letter as well.
 
Dan
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 4:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case Success
 
Hey Guys - Were it not for the great updates this list provides I would not have known of the transfer case  recall. I just came back from the dealer. They will be installing a brand new case for me at no charge to  me. I need to return in a week when the part arrives but that does not bother me one bit. Anyone know how  much dealers usually charge for replacing the transfer case?
 
Andy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 00:40:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
 
Michael,
 
    Please describe the situation in more detail
please.
 
Brody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:34:17 -0600
From: AINut <ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
 
idle control motor (ISC?)
 
AI Nut
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:59:04 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: I'm back, what the heck is THIS??
 
Ok....some of you guys recognize me....the guy that's been working on his car FOREVER.  Well....money and  time are related.  I've had little of either of late.  HOWEVER, I'm really, truly honestly, ALMOST DONE(4  years later) and need help.
 
When I ripped the car apart several years ago, I took time and care to tag just about everything I took off  of it so I would know what it was, no matter HOW long it took me to get it back in one piece.
 
This is NOT one of those pieces....
 
WHAT THE HECK IS THIS?!?!
 
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/Pics/Bracketview1.JPG
 
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/Pics/Bracketview2.JPG
 
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/Pics/Bracketview3.JPG
 
any help is greatly appreciated.
 
....and if I have to take the front manifold offa that damn block ONE MORE TIME.....
 
- -Jeff Crabtree
 2K Wrangler TJ Sport(the workhorse)
  '91 Stealth R/T TT (still holding the garage floor down)
   St. Louis, MO
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:30:07 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
 
Thanks for the reply.  When I start the car it starts right up, but the engine
is idling between 1800 and 2000 RPM.  Also, when I put the car in gear or
change gears before it's warmed up, the gears grind.  While driving the car
jerks back and forth pretty roughly when a gear is selected and the gas pedal
is not pressed at all.  However, if I take the car out of gear, then the
jerking goes away.  The car sometimes hesitates a little when I give it gas (again like a jerky  acceleration.  The plugs and wires were just changed as
well as the throttle position sensor.
 
Thanks again,
Michael
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:31:51 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
 
would the idle control motor affect the engine all the time while driving (causing this hesitation)?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:22:32 -0800
From: "Raleigh" <raleigh@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment
 
Can anyone recommend a good alignment shop in the SoCal area, ideally San Diego? My '92 R/T TT pulls to the  left, and I haven't been able to find an alignment shop here in the San Diego area that could identify the  problem. I don't think the shops I've taken it to have 4-wheel alignment equipment. I'm not sure that it's  an alignment problem, I suspect it may be a bad strut or some other worn suspension component. I can hear a  muffled knocking sound coming from the front when going over a speed bump or pothole, but I don't know that  it's related to the pulling. I've replaced the tires, so I know it's not related to tire wear.
 
Can anyone recommend a good shop here in this area that has 4 wheel alignment equipment, and ideally has  experience working with our 3S 4WS suspension?
 
Thanks,
Raleigh
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <whutzdat@adelphia.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment
 
> Johns alignment shop Gloucester, Massachusetts.  978-282-.0055. Best
> there is around. Price 50.00  4 wheel alignment.  Don't know if any of
> you have heard of Cape Ann Auto Body?  If not, they refer there cars
> to Johns alignment shop.  People from all over the world ship there
> Gullwings and all other exotic cars there for full restoration. Cars
> from there have won the Concourse in California.. Million dollar cars
> being sent to Johns alignment shop---you know he is good.. He also
> does all the work himself.. Hope this helps someone out
>
>                                                       Jack
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:08:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
 
Michael,
 
     Have you done any clutch work? Also have you
adjusted the clutch? It sounds like that may be a
problem or it could possibly be the something with the
idle. How does it idle when warm?
Brody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:28:46 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment
 
Can't help with San Diego, but I know a place in South Orange county. Bymar Tire in Mission Viejo [ near  Interstate 5 and Alicia Pky ] does my alignment
work and they really seem to know their stuff. Sounds like you might have a
problem with the bearing at the top of the strut --- a bad bearing can cause
noises and movement in the strut.
 
Bymar Tire And Brake   949-768-7381
25631 Taladro
Mission Viejo, ca
                     92691
 
        Jim Berry
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Raleigh" <raleigh@san.rr.com>
 
> Can anyone recommend a good alignment shop in the SoCal area, ideally
> San Diego? My '92 R/T TT pulls to the left, and I haven't been able to
> find an alignment shop here in the San Diego area that could identify
> the problem. I don't think the shops I've taken it to have 4-wheel
> alignment equipment. I'm not sure that it's an alignment problem, I
> suspect it may be a bad strut or some other worn suspension component.
> I can hear a muffled knocking sound coming from the front when going
> over a speed bump or pothole, but I don't know that it's related to
> the pulling. I've replaced the tires, so I know it's not related to
> tire wear.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 04:45:22 +0800
From: "John Stegall III" <jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
 
What ever happened to this?  Is it still being looked into?  I'd definitely love to see a new tranny for our  cars... one that actually can handle the torque/power.  I'm having issues with my tranny, and I'd certainly  be willing to pay the extra green for something that works the way it's really supposed to, and not a  quick-solution to the problem.
 
On another note, what's the deal with the transfer-case recall?  I went into my local satan and they saw the  recall, but said nothing was issued as a fix?
 
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:21:31 -0700
Subject: Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
 
I got this email today from Chris Fisher, Pres of PowerHausII
 
Best, --Forrest
 
- ---------------------------
 
Dear Friends-
 
I was referred to this Web Site by Matt at Dynamic Racing.
 
My company, PowerHaus II, is the leading company in the world regarding variety and quantity of special gear  ratios for Porsche gearboxes.  Cars with our gears have won in class at the 12 Hours of Sebring, 24 Hours of  Daytona, Petit LeMans, numerous Club and Historic events, and have seen top finishes at the 24 Hours of  LeMans in the Courage Porsches, with one car being driven by Mario and Michael Andretti.
 
We also have made and are making race and performance ratios for BMW and Subaru WRX cars, and may shortly  being going into Nissan gears.
 
I have a highly developed 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo, which I converted to the six speed gearbox when it became  available, and have considered making a close ratio gear stack for it.  After talking with Matt, who was  excited to hear about this,  I thought it would be good to get some feedback from other owners.
 
I have analyzed the gearing for the six speed, where I will put my main focus, and there is room for vast  improvement. Correct gearing would make these cars MUCH faster and a lot more enjoyable to drive.
 
A proper gearbox will cost between $ 7000 and $ 8000, depending on how the final gear stack comes out.
 
For quarter mile, quick street use, roadracing and top speed runs, everyone will be able to benefit big-time  from what we can build.
 
Please respond to me if you could be serious about such a gearbox.
 
Thank you
Chris Fisher
President, PowerHaus II
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 15:09:02 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment
 
At 11:22 AM 12/15/02 -0800, Raleigh wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a good alignment shop in the SoCal area, ideally
>San Diego? My '92 R/T TT pulls to the left, and I haven't been able to
>find an alignment shop here in the San Diego area that could identify
>the problem.
 
Use some old rally tricks while you look for a shop.
 
We'd do all these things if we knocked the car out of alignment on a rockadillo, bunyip crossing or strut  buster.
 
Get someone to stand behind the car off to the side whilst you drive it slowly forward in a straight line on  a flat surface, such as a lined parking lot. Drive with both left side wheels on the line, if you can. Both  wheels should look like they are tracking straight on. If the left side looks correct, back it up and try it  from the right side. If you have a severe problem, you should be able to see one of the wheels either toed  in or out.
 
You can also do the visual check on the highway. Have a buddy drive while you follow along behind on a flat,  4-lane highway. Have him put the left side wheels on the center stripe. Check for visual alignment of the  front and rear wheels. Then, have him move to the left lane and put the right side wheels on the center  stripe (I guess a two-way radio would help here). If one wheel is off, the car will be crabbing sideways a  little, and you can see it. You may not be able to figure out which one is off, but you will KNOW that one  of them is. When a car pulls like yours does, you should be able to see it from a following car.
 
Here's how to do a quick, 5-minute check for alignment:
 
1. Drive the car absolutely dead straight into the garage.
 
2. Eyeball down the side of the car from the front tire to the rear and vice versa. Make sure one of the  front tires is pointing dead straight ahead. Now check the other side to see if it, too, is pointing  straight ahead (note that the track in front is one inch narrower in the front than in the rear, so the  front tires will appear to be inset a little. Note to racers: Spacers cure this.).
 
If the left tire is pointing straight, and the right one is pointing in or out, then you have a problem. It  can be on either side.
 
3. Lay a carpenter's level on the left wheel to see how far off of straight up and down it is. Compare that  to the right wheel. This checks camber. Both wheels should be identical -- either straight up and down or  the same + or - amount. Different camber settings could cause a problem. At least you'll know that something  is off, and can tell an alignment shop. If you are mechanically inclined, you can adjust camber. Check the  shop manual.
 
4. Now for toe. With the car still on the garage floor (don't jack it up!), measure the exact distance from  the center of the right front tire (in the front) to the center of the left front tire in the front. Use a  steel carpenter's tape.
 
Repeat the measurement in the rear of the front tires. Measure in exactly the same place on the tires, front  and rear. Compare and contrast.
 
If the measurements are exactly the same, your car has zero toe.
If the measurements are larger in front than in the rear, one wheel or both are toed out (+).
If the measurements are larger in the rear than in the front, one wheel or both are toed in (-).
 
You can either carry this information to the front end shop, or adjust it out yourself.
 
5. Adjust the toe by adjusting the tie rod ends. Look for a loose end or a bent tie rod, which may be the  cause of your problem. If so, go buy a new one. Adjust the tie rod ends until the front and rear tire width  measurements are exactly the same. You now have zero toe, which should keep you going until you find a front  end shop that can do a proper alignment. I don't know what the stock settings are, but I run +0.10 on mine  for racing purposes.
 
6. If you can't find a problem in the front tires, try the same procedure in the rear. Toe adjustment in the  rear is done at the four-wheel steering.
 
While none of this is exact, it works well enough to keep a rally car going through the North Woods when  garage facilities are not available. Some guys used to carry a marked wooden rod -- sorta like a broomstick  or a long yardstick -- that was calibrated for what their toe should be. Their service crew could check  alignment in 30 seconds or so.
 
I've also used this technique to temporarily align the rally car after doing mods to the front end (new  struts and springs).
 
You really need to find an alignment shop, even if adjustment seems to cure your problem. Alignment is a  tricky deal, especially on our cars, which need a 4 wheel alignment. If you are ever lucky enough to watch a  really good tech adjust our alignment, you'll see how sensitive everything is, and how difficult it is to  bring everything together. Therefore, it's possible that you can completely screw up the whole thing. I'd  mark where the settings are before you change anything, and if it's worse after you adjust stuff, put it  back to where it was.
 
At the very least, making these measurements will let you go to the alignment shop and tell them what you  found. "Look pal, the right front wheel is toed in, and that's probably why it's pulling to the left," or  something like that.
 
If none of these quickie alignment measurements or visual inspections turn up anything amiss, then I'd look  at the tires. Check for a busted steel belt or any weird wear patterns. Inspect every tire for any  abnormality. A bad tire anywhere on the car can make it pull. If you suspect a tire, swap it side to side to  see if the car starts pulling in the other direction.
 
Rich/slow old poop
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:37:40 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
 
AFAIK, Chris never got any inquiries about the custom gearbox he offered. I've seen him at the area tracks a  couple of times (he races his Porsche), and he never mentioned any more about it, so I guess he got little  or no response from Team3S folks.  If people are still interested, they should contact him directly at his  website www.PowerHaus.com, out of Scottsdale.  If there is new interest in this, I'll be seeing him at Sears  Point in early Feb, when the NorCal racing season starts up again.  I can talk it up with him and ask  whatever questions you might have...  This guy is the real deal, and does impressive work.  We have some pix  of his Porsche Turbo-S from Laguna Seca up on our site: www.Team3S.com/PowerHausII/Laguna052601.htm
 
Best,
Forrest
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Stegall III" <jstegall@programmer.net>
 
> What ever happened to this?  Is it still being looked into?  I'd
> definitely love to see a new tranny for our cars... one that
> actually can handle the torque/power.  I'm having issues with my
> tranny, and I'd certainly be willing to pay the extra green for
> something that works the way it's really supposed to, and not a
> quick-solution to the problem.
>
- ----------snip--------->
> John
> 1994 3000GT VR-4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
> Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:21:31 -0700
> I got this email today from Chris Fisher, Pres of PowerHausII Best,
> --Forrest
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:52:07 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hesitation in gear w/o throttle
 
Idling at 2000 rpms on a 20 degree day is not unusual.  What would be
unusual is if the idle stayed that way after the engine was warmed up.
 
The jerking when in gear could be caused by worn or loose drive line
components.  Things like worn engine mounts or loose driveline bearings can
do this.  Too much play in the driveline will do this.  What happens is
this:  When you drive with the throttle open, the load is pulling the car
forward and all the slack in the driveline is taken up.  When you take your
foot off the throttle there is a split second where the driveline changes
from pulling your car forward to pushing it back with resistance from the
engine.  If there is play in your driveline, then it will jerk your car.  If
there is a lot of play then it will have a rubber band like effect.  Your
car will jerk when you slow down and it hits the rear limit, then the engine
will pull it forward and it will jerk again when it hits the front limit,
then it will hit the front limit of the driveline play and jerk again, then
it will hit the rear limit and the engine will pull it forward again etc.
 
Driveline play may not be the exact problem but it is a possibility.
 
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:25:42 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
 
There's always interest until you mention price --- everybody wants one if they cost
$100 but as soon as you mention $8000 the labored breathing begins. I think you'd
have to be a hard core racer to spend 8 large on a tranny --- that's 4 rebuilt units.
It would still be interesting to find out if he did any further checking though.
 
        Jim berry
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
 
> AFAIK, Chris never got any inquiries about the custom gearbox he offered.
> I've seen him at the area tracks a couple of times (he races his Porsche), and
> he never mentioned any more about it, so I guess he got little or no response
> from Team3S folks.  If people are still interested, they should contact him
> directly at his website www.PowerHaus.com, out of Scottsdale.  If there is new
> interest in this, I'll be seeing him at Sears Point in early Feb, when the
> NorCal racing season starts up again.  I can talk it up with him and ask
> whatever questions you might have...  This guy is the real deal, and does
> impressive work.  We have some pix of his Porsche Turbo-S from Laguna Seca up
> on our site:
> www.Team3S.com/PowerHausII/Laguna052601.htm
>
> Best,
> Forrest
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 17:38:15 -0500
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio   x35617d1" <x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject: Team3S: Boost Controller and gauges
 
Almost two weeks after my accident and I still haven't gotten the wreckage
back yet.  I haven't been able to contact the shop that has it by phone.
I've been real busy with term-ends so I haven't had a chance to go out there
in person (that, and I don't have a ride out there either :( ).  Anyways,
though I don't remember seeing the car after the accident, my buddy who was
riding with me says it looked pretty totaled so I'm not keeping any high
hopes that I will be able to repair it. That said, I have a couple of parts
that I never got around to installing that I want to sell.
 
Turbo XS Manual Boost Controller. Go here to see a pretty good description.
That website has it listed at $239 but I only paid $220 I think. Regardless,
first $170 OBO takes it. http://www.fastwrx.com/turxsdualboo.html
 
I also have a set of white face neon-lit gauges. There are 6 gauge faces in
total (speed, tach, fuel, oil, boost, and temp) plus the neon light kit. I
got these as a present but never got around to installing them nor do I know
how much they cost. They are the ones that have "GTO" on the tachometer
gauge. Best offer gets them.
 
As far as parts off the car itself, I'm gonna wait until I see the extent of
the damage and whether it would be worth repairing ( I doubt). I don't have
the time, tools, or space to part the car out so if I do decide to part it
out I'm probably gonna have to sell the entire thing. Maybe a group of you
who needs parts can chip in and buy it and take what you need from it before
sending to the junk yard. The engine had a brand new block installed with
only about 5K miles on it so the engine itself will be a good thing to have
if it wasn't damaged. But I'm getting a little ahead of myself here. For
now, only the two things above are for sale for sure.
 
- -E.RDZ
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:05:17 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Team3S: Indiglo gauge face?
 
This is for the people that have installed the Indiglo gauge face:
 
I just installed the faces.  Before I put the Dash back on, I would like to
know if I am suppose to take the old bulbs out.  There are three bulbs in
the Speed/Tach gauge and there are three in the center gauge cluster.
 
Rgds
Moe
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:41:35 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
 
... and the silence is deafening
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 8:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
 
I bought one from mitsupartsdirect.com and I think it is faulty.  According
to the manual, you are supposed to be able to push the screw in, then cover
the vacuum outlet nipple and then the screw is not supposed to come back out
or the diaphragm is damaged.  My newly purchased one comes back 90% of the
way.  Does this mean it's bad, or is it ok as long as it doesn't come back
all the way?
 
thanks,
Bill
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:38:05 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
 
It's the weekend. Wait'll everybody gets back to work. I guess only about 10% of the wizards are available  on weekends.
 
I'd help, but I have no idea what you are talking about. Engine stuff is not my area of expertise. Nothing  really is, I guess.
 
Rich
 
I At 08:41 PM 12/15/02 -0500, Bill vp wrote:
>... and the silence is deafening
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:02:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
 
I agree. Wait until Monday. I have no idea what it is
that you are talking about or I would try to help.
 
Sorry,
Brody
 
- --- "merritt@cedar-rapids.net"
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net> wrote:
> It's the weekend. Wait'll everybody gets back to
> work. I guess only about 10% of the wizards are
> available on weekends.
> I'd help, but I have no idea what you are talking
> about. Engine stuff is not my area of expertise.
> Nothing really is, I guess.
> Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:56:07 -0600
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: alignment
 
Quite a few years ago, I purchased a "LIFETIME" alignment from firestone
service centers that was good nationwide at ANY location, and you can use it
as much or as little as you want.  I believe it was around $140.  Even if
you get a boob that doesn't know what he's doing, you can go to another
Firestone for free and have them look at it.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Raleigh
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment
 
Can anyone recommend a good alignment shop in the SoCal area, <<SNIP>>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 04:55:18 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: could someone test their dashpot please?
 
I appreciate the wishing to help.  I originally posted the question on
Wednesday.  I was just sort of making a reply in case someone missed it, and
could help me.  The dashpot is a copper colored contraption that connects to
the back of the throttle body and has a ufo-shaped disc on one side and a
screw with a flexible short black plastic-hose-like thing on the other.  I
attached the original question describing the testing methodology, to the
bottom.
 
thanks,
Bill
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #26
**************************************