Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, December 13
2002 Volume 02 : Number 024
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 12:34:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Coolant
Alex
Do you feel like you need to change the fluid?
When
was the last time you changed the fluid? I usually
change the fluid
before summer and winter. I run two
different concentrations depending on the
time of the
year. If you feel like it needs to be tested get an
antifreeze
tester and see. If it looks dirty or you
just don't like it then by all means
change it.
As far as changing the fluid that is simple.
#1. You will need to put your car on a life or on
ramps, just to make it
easier for you. It can be done
just sitting on the ground also.
#2. Get a container that will hole the fluid
(something that has a lid
on it so you can take it to
be disposed of) and put it under the radiator
under
the lower radiator hose.
#3. Loosen the lower radiator hose with screwdriver
and place in
container. Be careful because the fluid
will come out in a hurry.
#4. Crack the cap on the top to allow free flow.
#5. Once all the fluid is out, reinstall the lower
radiator hose and
tighten the hose clamp.
#6. Fill the system with antifreeze and water mixture.
I use a 70/30 mix
(antifreeze/water) in the winter.
#7. Start the car with the cap off and fill the system
and make sure the
air pockets are removed. Reinstall
the cap and fill the overflow
container.
#8. Let the system run and check for leaks.
Good luck on the change.
Brody
- --- Alex Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com> wrote:
> Hey
guys,
>
> I had my coolant cap tested and according to the
>
shop, it couldn't hold
> a sneeze... so... I went out and bought one
finally,
> but I've been
> driving with the low coolant light on
whenever a.
> the car is cold, or b.
> I slam on the brakes for
quite a while now. Which is understandable,
> but my question is once I
get the new cap on there (my
> baby is still at the
> body shop :( )
should I do a coolant flush? If so,
> anyone got a
> procedure
handy?
>
> TIA,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 VR4
('99 front end conversion coming...)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 12:36:21 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Coolant
should you flush? that depends on how long it's been. It's generally
recommended every 2 years / 30K miles. Personally I do it yearly. IMO if
you wait 2 years you should actually flush the system. If you do it yearly
then a simple drain and refill should be fine. If you don't remember when you
last did a flush or refill, you can also do an electrolysis test to
determine if a flush is necessary. If you can give me until tomorrow, I'll
get you procedures on the coolant flush and the electrolysis test.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:40:17 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Coolant
Thanks...
How do I check for air pockets? Also, some people speak of some kind of a
drain plug... is there an actual plug somewhere on the block (or
radiator)?
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:44:18 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Magazines
> Wonder what the volume break-even point is for having someone else do
> the color printing, versus using a color laser printer and doing all
> the printing in-house?
OK, I finally had time to run the numbers on printing costs. I started at
printing 4,000 copies. For a 28 page rag (a 4 page cover, a 16 page form
and an 8 page form) the cost for 4,000 is about $3,750, or $0.94/copy
costing $133.75/page to print. If you cut the print count in half to 2,000
copies, you are looking at about $3,500, $1.72/copy. Drop down to 1,000
and it is $3,275, $3.27/copy. Most of the expense is in plate making and
press ready costs.
OTOH, if you print 10,000, it costs $4,640, $0.46/copy.
My color laser can do 22ppm color on 11x17 paper duplex. 6 pages duplexed
and saddle stitched would give us the 24 page book. 6 X 500 would be 3,000
pages - I've had a several different color lasers and I have to believe
that 6 tabloid sized duplexed pages with full coverage is going to cost more
than $2.50 to print in consumables and paper.
I have a lead on a yellow 95 VR-4 for under $10,000 that I'm going to
investigate this weekend. Then I'd have a 2 VR-4 garage! But I'd have to
ditch the Accord V6 or the F150 4x4... Oh well...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 12:47:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coolant
When you start the car the water pump will move the
coolant through the
engine and force the pockets up to
the top. Since you have the radiator cap
off the
pockets will empty there but you will have to refill
when the
coolant get low.
Yes, there is a drain plug on the back of the
radiator
on the bottom passenger side. It is just so small it
has been
just a PITA for me so I go with the lower
radiator hose. Quicker and easier
for me.
Good Luck
Brody
- --- Alex Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com> wrote:
>
Thanks...
>
> How do I check for air pockets? Also, some
people
> speak of some kind of
> a drain plug... is there an actual
plug somewhere on
> the block (or
> radiator)?
>
>
Alex.
------------------------------
I think there is also a drain plug/freeze plug (or two) on the block
itself. I would be afraid to remove it, even though they describe it
in the service manual ...
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brody Martin
[mailto:brody_martin@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 2:48
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Coolant
When you start the car the water pump will move the
coolant through the
engine and force the pockets up to
the top. Since you have the radiator cap
off the
pockets will empty there but you will have to refill
when the
coolant get low.
Yes, there is a drain plug on the back of the
radiator
on the bottom passenger side. It is just so small it
has been
just a PITA for me so I go with the lower
radiator hose. Quicker and easier
for me.
Good Luck
Brody
- --- Alex Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com> wrote:
>
Thanks...
>
> How do I check for air pockets? Also, some
people
> speak of some kind of
> a drain plug... is there an actual
plug somewhere on
> the block (or
> radiator)?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:08:27 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: Q
about lightened flywheel balancing
when I replace my transfer case + transmission, this is the perfect time to
get that clutch job done too. I'm definitely getting some kind of
aftermarket clutch and I'm debating getting a lightened flywheel too. I am
already aware of some of the disadvantages of a light flywheel vs. stock... such
as less low-end torque, rough idling, and slower starts (at low rpm). But
is there anything else that I should worry about? I'm specifically
thinking about those Unorthodox crank pulleys which ..some people.. claim
contribute to a spun bearing due to lack of dampening. Could a lightened
flywheel have a similar effect? And do they come balanced, or do they need
to somehow be balanced to "fit my engine"?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
complete driveline rebuild in progress
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:08:57 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Q about lightened flywheel balancing
No, a flywheel wont cause potential harm.
The front pulley is 100% capable of potential harm.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> when I replace my transfer case + transmission, this is the perfect
> time to get that clutch job done too. I'm definitely getting some kind
> of aftermarket clutch and I'm debating getting a lightened flywheel
> too. I am already aware of some of the disadvantages of a light
> flywheel vs. stock... such as less low-end torque, rough idling, and
> slower starts (at low rpm). But is there anything else that I should
> worry about? I'm specifically thinking about those Unorthodox crank
> pulleys which ..some people.. claim contribute to a spun bearing due
> to lack of dampening. Could a lightened flywheel have a similar
> effect? And do they come balanced, or do they need to somehow be
> balanced to "fit my engine"?
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth
rt tt
> complete driveline rebuild in progress
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:12:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coolant
Well there are several freeze plugs on the block they
all have
them. I don't know about a drain plumb on the
block I never checked for one.
But it would make since
for it to be on the rear of the block though.
I
will have to look for that now.
Brody
- --- "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> I think there is also a drain plug/freeze plug (or
> two)
on the block itself. I would be afraid to
> remove it, even though
they describe it in the
> service manual ...
>
> Chuck
Willis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brody Martin
[mailto:brody_martin@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 2:48
PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Coolant
>
> When you start
the car the water pump will move the
> coolant through the engine and
force the pockets up
> to the top. Since you have the radiator cap off
the
> pockets will empty there but you will have to refill
> when
the coolant get low.
> Yes, there is a drain plug on the back of
the
> radiator on the bottom passenger side. It is just
> so small
it has been just a PITA for me so I go with
> the lower radiator hose.
Quicker and easier for me.
>
> Good Luck
> Brody
------------------------------
You may have to repeat the topping off several times before all the air
pockets are displaced. Top off the radiator, bring the engine temp up, then
let it cool down and repeat. Be careful, as having an air pocket can keep
the coolant from circulating and over heat the engine VERY quickly.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:29:23 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Powersteering
Sounds like a good idea Chuck, so does anyone have any input? I wrote
something to the list about my PS groaning and whining a couple months
ago, when I first joined, and I've had some developments since then that
are listed below... If anyone knows a good place to get ahold of a rack and
pinion, and maybe shed some light on this alleged "special tool" that
would be great. Thanks!
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Thursday, December 12,
2002 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Anybody interested in Basic Car Maintenance
demo at NG03?
There was a thread about this several months back. My clutch shop
thought it looked like an easy replacement, but some others said it was
not so easy. Ask the list. I know Jim Floyd had his replaced, but he
is off the list temporarily. Also, consider getting a used one from
M&S recycling to reduce costs. These units are rather
pricey.
Chuck
------------------------------
Hello all,
I just bought a 94 VR4 a few weeks back and there is a vibration in the
rear end that I am not sure where it's coming from. I searched the
FAQ and did not find anything related and would appreciate anyone's input.
Situation: During acceleration between 20 and 30mph in second gear car
vibrates heavily, feels like its coming from back end, similar to
vibration when you up shift too soon and engine can't drive load. I
recently changed the rear transaxle fluid and looked clean, trans fluid was
somewhat dirty but not bat for 80K, could not get fill plug out
(to
rusted) so I'll let the dealer do that during the TC recall. Will
also do it in third right after shifting, then goes away. The
vibration will continue if I maintain a constant speed. Any ideas would be
greatly appreciated.
Also with respect to alignment I would not let anyone do a "on the car"
wheel balance. These a stick right on the inside of the door that
states don't spin the tires when the car is off the ground as it could
damage the VCU. Just my thought.
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:41:28 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Coolant
I might as well speak while the moment is here rather than wait 'til
tomorrow. I don't have access to my shop manual now, but here's what I
remember from my last drain and refill:
My shop manual points to a drain plug on the back of the block. There's
also one on the front, but I think the front turbo is in the way. I put my
car on a lift and tried to loosen that rear drain plug. I just couldn't!
It was hard to see and hard to reach. I used the lower radiator hose in the end.
If I remember correctly, the radiator holds pretty close to half of the
coolant (yes, please double-check this!!). So you drain the system using
the radiator drain plug and the lower radiator hose and fill it with water. Run
the car for about 10 minutes. Then drain it again and fill it with more
water. You'll have almost 100% water now. Then disconnect and cap off the
upper radiator hose from the engine block. Drain the coolant in the
radiator only, and then fill the radiator back up with 100% pure coolant. After
it mixes for a few min of driving, you'll have a 50/50 mixture.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:47:00 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Drive train vibration & alignment
The one supposed advantage to an on-car balance is that you are also
balancing with the weight of the rotors included. Rotors can be out of
balance too. Just a thought. But I'm in the middle of this drama with a
shop that messed up my car and it'll be at least 2-3 weeks (prob. more)
before all the money goes to the right places and the parts get installed
properly. After all this I wouldn't risk letting anyone do an on-car spin
balance with this AWD car. If you're FWD...maybe... to each his own.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:51:00 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Coolant
Cool... thanks a lot guys...
BTW - what's the safety limit on the mixture both in winter and
summer?
Is 50/50 safe for good ol' Chicago and Michigan winters (temps below the 0F
mark at times, but for the most part in mid teens-mid twenties)? While I'm
at school (most of the winter) my car sits outside...
Thanks,
Alex.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 4:41
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Coolant
I might as well speak while the moment is here rather than wait 'til
tomorrow. I don't have access to my shop manual now, but here's what I
remember from my last drain and refill:
My shop manual points to a drain plug on the back of the block. There's
also one on the front, but I think the front turbo is in the way. I put my
car on a lift and tried to loosen that rear drain plug. I just couldn't!
It was hard to see and hard to reach. I used the lower radiator hose in the end.
If I remember correctly, the radiator holds pretty close to half of the
coolant (yes, please double-check this!!). So you drain the system using
the radiator drain plug and the lower radiator hose and fill it with water. Run
the car for about 10 minutes. Then drain it again and fill it with more
water. You'll have almost 100% water now. Then disconnect and cap off the
upper radiator hose from the engine block. Drain the coolant in the
radiator only, and then fill the radiator back up with 100% pure coolant. After
it mixes for a few min of driving, you'll have a 50/50 mixture.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:05:48 -0600
From: "William" <
krikit@sirinet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Base model...Automatic...Questions of upgradeability.
I am writing this in shame, for I've been beaten by a 95 Integra, twice
now. Though each time it was at a rolling 25mph start, and with his manual
he is able to get the jump on me, he, for some reason, won't race me from
the line.
Anyways, on to the question, I am getting disillusioned about my beautiful
car, I love the looks, I love the speed, I LOVE the handling. But its an
automatic, and base so no TT and no shifty shifty. I was wondering if
anyone has links to a manufacturer who makes high performance trannies that can
be swapped into the 92 3000GT, if not, if anyone has any suggestions, I
don't want to sell the car to go for a higher model, or another car just
yet... But that may change if I have little options.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
William
Dean
www.sirinet.net/~krikit1992 3000GT
Base
Engine: N/A Stock
Sound: Stock
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:03:22 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Coolant
Here's some numbers:
[Antifreeze]/[Water]
60%/40% for a crazy winter
65%/35% for a really bad one
I'm pretty sure that's what the shop manual recommends too.
If you put more coolant than that, you will risk overheating the car during
the summer since the water is better at cooling your car than the
coolant.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:31:24 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: '99
Frontend
Hey all,
The body shop is installing my '99 bumper and here's what they're telling
me - they're saying that there is some kind of a duct leading from the
side intake scoops on the bumper to the intercoolers, and that since the
intake ducts on the new bumper are much larger that those of the old one (which
they are), that you will be able to see those ducts. What the hell are
they talking about??? I thought there were no ducts or anything - it was
all part of the bumper???
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:48:07 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Coolant
Have any of you guys used NPG+ yet, in your cars? It's a
coolant/antifreeze
replacement. I have some for a different engine am
considering putting it in
all my vehicles.
AI Nut
Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> Here's some numbers:
>
>
[Antifreeze]/[Water]
>
> 60%/40% for a crazy winter
> 65%/35%
for a really bad one
>
> I'm pretty sure that's what the shop
manual recommends too.
>
> If you put more coolant than that, you
will risk overheating the car
> during the summer since the water is
better at cooling your car than
> the coolant.
------------------------------
Hi Everyone,
Quick question. With all the talk of magazines and related subjects,
I got to thinking (dangerous as that may be). I have seen a large
number of car videos on the web recently with many being quite long. Is
it possible for some of our more experienced owners to record how-to
segments that could be downloaded and viewed. I know bandwidth and
storage space could become an issue. Normally the excellent information
and pictures provided by the various websites are all I require.
There have been a few of my more complex ventures that have had me
wondering if I was looking at the same vehicle. I know it is my
inexperience but think it would be handy to have a video library to walk
me through a few of these. Is there any interest and is this
workable? Maybe this isn't a quick question! Sorry.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:00:07 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Videos
If I end up getting a video camera for Christmas, that's a likely
possibility. I'm already dangerous with a digital camera... with a
video camera and editing software, that'd be scary :-) Provided Geoff
doesn't kick me off his server, I'd probably put a few small video clips
in there along with the rest of the non-moving instructions.
Maybe we should all chip in and buy Jeff L. a video camera, too :-)
> Is it possible for some of our more experienced owners
> to
record how-to segments that could be
> downloaded and viewed.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:31:56 -0600
From: Michael Provence <
MProvence@gencofcu.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Videos
That sounds interesting! I have a digital camera and a PC with
video
editing software. I will soon be forced to change out my clutch
so I am
toying with a few ideas. I would prefer though to give way to
someone with
more experience. I have an NA and this will be my first clutch
on a 3000GT.
The others were on trucks (Texas ;P). It might provide an
interesting
perspective though. Maybe some of the demos mentioned in a
previous email
could be videoed? Mr. Willis, I am looking in your
direction! Please
forgive me if I am pressuring but maybe someone who
will be attending could
tape them? That is valuable information to a
lot of people.
Mike
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 5:00
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Videos
> Is it possible for some of our more experienced owners
> to
record how-to segments that could be
> downloaded and viewed?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 23:33:20 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: '99 Frontend
There is a duct (plastic or rubber) between the bumper and IC for the stock
setup - at least on my 1992 TT - that directs air into the IC. This duct had
to be removed when I installed the larger side mounts. The sidemounts push
right up against the bumper so I didn't worry about directing the air into
the
IC.
Air will take the path of least resistance. I would guess that without some
form of duct work or other guide, air might easily flow around the IC rather
than through it. Also a reason to not remove the bottom plastic covers, and
to
block off behind aftermarket driving/fog lights. :)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Sent: Thursday,
December 12, 2002 3:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: '99 Frontend
Hey all,
The body shop is installing my '99 bumper and here's what
they're
telling me - they're saying that there is some kind of a duct
leading
from the side intake scoops on the bumper to the intercoolers, and
that
since the intake ducts on the new bumper are much larger that those
of
the old one (which they are), that you will be able to see those
ducts.
What the hell are they talking about??? I thought there were no ducts
or
anything - it was all part of the bumper???
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:45:17 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Videos
as far as server space goes, I'm not making any absolute commitment yet,
but
I am going to say that I have a cable connection to the internet so I
could
store these things on my hard drive and if it was 1 download at a time
then
I should be able to send them out fine. Also, I have at least 50MB
of
dedicated server storage with a high speed connection to it. That should
be
enough for the top picks (most viewed videos). Let me know if I can be
of
assistance.
Some other ideas:
1) If we each chipped in just a few bucks, it wouldn't be hard to buy
a
video camera.
2) How about burning the clips to CD, and each CD costs enough to pay
for
the CD itself plus labor... and maybe a little extra to help out the
list?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:28:17 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Coolant
I've been running it for 6 months. Nothing bad to report but there's
really
nothing amazing about it besides knowing that I could push 280F
coolant
temps no problem. I never get up there anyway...the highest coolant
temps I
recorded in 108F ambient temps were 211F in stop/go traffic with the
A/C on
max. We'll see how it performs when I add the AAM front mount I have
on
order.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AINut" <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Sent: Thursday,
December 12, 2002 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant
> Have any of you guys used NPG+ yet, in your cars? It's a
>
coolant/antifreeze replacement. I have some for a different
> engine
am considering putting it in all my vehicles.
>
> AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:30:04 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Coolant
60% is the max recommended coolant concentration in the service
manual.
Trevor
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Sent: Thursday,
December 12, 2002 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Coolant
> Here's some numbers:
>
>
[Antifreeze]/[Water]
>
> 60%/40% for a crazy winter
> 65%/35%
for a really bad one
>
> I'm pretty sure that's what the shop manual
recommends too.
>
> If you put more coolant than that, you will risk
overheating
> the car during the summer since the water is better at
cooling
> your car than the coolant.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:44:36 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Videos
Videos would be great but the size of the video would get out of hand
in
a hurry. To get the proper size that allows a large enough image
and
resolution you can easily burn 10 mb per minute. Narration is
almost
eliminated because of the time involved in verbal descriptions. Maybe
a freeze frame with narration would work somehow but it's beyond
my
abilities. CD would work fairly well though.
Jim Berry
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Quick question. With all the talk
of magazines and related subjects, I got
> to thinking (dangerous as that
may be). I have seen a large number of car
> videos on the web
recently with many being quite long. Is it possible for
> some of
our more experienced owners to record how-to segments that could be
>
downloaded and viewed. I know bandwidth and storage space could become
an
> issue. Normally the excellent information and pictures provided
by the
> various websites are all I require. There have been a few
of my more
> complex ventures that have had me wondering if I was looking
at the same
> vehicle. I know it is my inexperience but think it
would be handy to have a
> video library to walk me through a few of
these. Is there any interest and
> is this workable? Maybe
this isn't a quick question! Sorry.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 19:53:03 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: free 20 HP mod
Nope, No One!
Vinny
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sheehan" <
johns@kyso.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December
11, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: free 20 HP mod
> Did anyone ever reply to your question? Just wondered what they
said.
> Thanx, john
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 20:07:17 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Coolant
Yes, there is a coolant drain plug in the back of the block. Search the
Manual CD for the picture and the location. I removed it when I had to
drain the coolant. It is tight there, but not too bad in comparison to the
rest of the car.
To get all the bubbles out of the system you need to run the engine til the
thermostat opens while the coolant plug is open.
I also have been running NPG+ since spring. No problems and I like it. At
least I do not hear that gurgling in the coolant plug area a minute after
my engine stops. NPG+ should not contain more than ~3% of water. I used
Sierra brand coolant to wash the old 50/50 coolant out before filling it up
with NPG+ like Trevor recommended.
Philip
At 19:28 12/12/2002, Trevor James wrote:
>I've been running it for 6
months. Nothing bad to report but there's really
>nothing amazing about it
besides knowing that I could push 280F coolant
>temps no problem. I never
get up there anyway...the highest coolant temps I
>recorded in 108F
ambient temps were 211F in stop/go traffic with the A/C on
>max. We'll see
how it performs when I add the AAM front mount I have on
>order.
------------------------------
..and all it takes is -1- kid in a dorm room to destroy your pipe.
This is why CAPS is no longer public on the -free- team3s server.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> as far as server space goes, I'm not making any absolute commitment
yet, but
> I am going to say that I have a cable connection to the
internet so I could
> store these things on my hard drive and if it was 1
download at a time then
> I should be able to send them out fine. Also, I
have at least 50MB of
> dedicated server storage with a high speed
connection to it. That should be
> enough for the top picks (most viewed
videos). Let me know if I can be of
> assistance.
>
> Some
other ideas:
>
> 1) If we each chipped in just a few bucks, it
wouldn't be hard to buy a
> video camera.
>
> 2) How about
burning the clips to CD, and each CD costs enough to pay for
> the CD
itself plus labor... and maybe a little extra to help out the list?
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:15:32 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: EGR
Bolts
Can someone confirm this for me - I need a replacement for the bolt
on
the EGR pipe (the pipe that goes from the valve to the plenum).
I
sheared of one of the bolts that connect the pipe to the valve. I
looked
it up on CAPS and got PN MD118580 (Bolt, Exhaust Manifold Flange,
8x20)
but I wasn't too sure whether I clicked the right thing...
Also, if satan doesn't have it in stock (which I'm sure they won't)
is
there any reason I can't just get an 8x20 bolt from the hardware
store?
Does the fact that it sits right on top of the rear turbo create
any
restrictions on the type of bolt I can use?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:35:32 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: free 20 HP mod
> > Did anyone ever reply to your question? Just wondered what they
said.
> Nope, No One!
Look for posts with the same subject line from Jeff Lucius and
myself.
I'm not sure why you'd want to ask questions if you don't read
the
responses. Seems a little silly.
;-)
Essentially Jeff said that he thought it would probably work, but
didn't
have any real-world data to back it up (and that the 3/S Technical
Manual
seemed to indicate that it may not work). I said that it had
measurably
increased the boost on a few 1st gen cars we tried it on by
approximately 2
psi consistently which would be enough to make up the 20hp
difference, so it
did work properly. The DSM (Eclipse/Talon/Laser) cars
seem to use the same
boost control setup (and ECU boost control algorithms)
as our cars do and it
works there as well for 1G DSM cars.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:43:09 -0600
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Custom
Painting
Look under owners - member #71.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- -----Original Snipped Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Roger Ludwig
Has anyone seen any yellow STOCK VR4 Spyders? If they
are floating
around I may hold out for one... so far
it is nothing more then a rumor that
all the yellows
are repaints....
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Alex,
Easiest way. Take the other bolt that is not broke to the
local hardware
store for comparison and get two stainless steel bolts to
replace them.
(don't forget any lock or flat washers) I would never seize
them and torque
them to spec.
Dave Thrower
92 Stealth R/T
TT
Harrisburg PA.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 23:26:50 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: free 20 HP mod
This is the problem with the Team3S list that I am having too. I think I
have several messages on this topic in my mailbox at work, but nothing at
home. My Team3S email that comes home is often several hours late as well.
But I guess sometimes it does not come at all. I asked Forrest and Geoff
several times. They thought they found a problem once, but I still get
those late and missing emails.
Philip
At 22:35 12/12/2002, Matt Jannusch wrote:
> > > Did anyone ever
reply to your question? Just wondered what they said.
>
> > Nope,
No One!
>
>Look for posts with the same subject line from Jeff
Lucius and myself.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 20:38:13 -0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: free 20 HP mod
I too have been having probs with the emails, like the other day I
kept
sending out the OT FS G tech info and never saw it come up till I
added
that I had not seen it up yet and a few told me it had come up all
3
times, but still, I did not receive those messages. Makes me wonder
what
other messages I could be missing.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 22:02:05 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Powersteering
No special tools are needed, but perhaps one of those special wrenches
used
for fluid/brake lines would be nice. I just used a regular open
end wrench
though. This job is a real PITA!!! but it is straight
forward. I purchased
a rebuilt rack from Autozone for (I think) around
$180. I had to remove and
replace twice, since the first one I got
leaked like a sieve :(. The second
one is fine though.
- -Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Sent:
Thursday, December 12, 2002 1:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: Powersteering
> Sounds like a good idea Chuck, so does anyone have any input? I
wrote
something to the list about my PS groaning and whining a couple months
ago,
when I first joined, and I've had some developments since then that
are
listed below... If anyone knows a good place to get ahold of a rack
and
pinion, and maybe shed some light on this alleged "special tool" that
would
be great. Thanks!
> -b
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 00:05:23 -0800
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
OT: Admin:-- Missing Messages (was Re: Team3S: Re: free 20 HP mod)
***Since this thread was started ON the list (instead of privately to
the
Admins, as it should have been), we are answering it on the list, as
well.
If you *think* you have problems read this (long) reply; if not, ignore
it!
There are a number of very good reasons why members don't receive
certain
messages. It has nothing to do with the Team3S List software,
or hardware,
(both of which are SOTA), and it has *much* to do with your own
Internet
Service Provider; more specifically..., how good their tech people
are.***
In an effort to combat incessant SPAM, ISP's put in 'filters' to catch
repeat
offenders (and delete all email from, or 'blacklist' entire domains)
who abuse
the net with bulk emailings. If the ISP does not use
sophisticated filters,
often a good domain can be blacklisted for no
reason. Quite simply, this is
because the tech who installed the filter
at your ISP is..., errrr..., stupid.
We've had several such incidents where
our domains (the Team3S domain, our
mirror domain, or our hosting ISP,
Geoff's speedtoys domain) have been
blacklisted by dummies. The best
example of this is that recently, a major
ISP blacklisted us because of a
thread on our list about using lighter
components in our cars to get faster
results when racing. Our subject thread
included the phrase "weight
loss", but because of a moron who worked for a
major ISP interpreting that as
"diet plan SPAM", a few dozen members did not
get Team3S list email for over
a month. Since they had the "committee
mindset" so prevalent here in
the land of fruits and nuts (California), it
took the ISP 'forever' to
correct their error, even after repeated emails from
the Team3S Admin, our
ISP (Geoff) *and* our members, all explaining the ISP's
system spam filter
flaw.
We have a number of problem ISPs in the PNW, including your ISP,
MSN-based
Hotmail, Telenor, and even Admin Chris Winkley's own sophisticated
company -
all regularly reject certain messages from Team3S which are
(correctly)
allowed by most other ISP's. About 1/4 of the 200 bounced
emails I get daily
are from improperly-installed filters at private
corporations, or the Internet
Service Providers, or "newbie services" (AOL,
MSN, Hotmail, Earthlink...), or
"freemail' services (you should be
embarrassed to use them when real ad-free
email costs $11 a year!), or P2P
Services, such as Juno (from whom we no
longer accept memberships). A
total of 5,000 to 10,000 individual Team3S list
messages go out to members on
an average day, so 200 bounces is a small number
(~4%). Just understand
that 4% of your ISP's hire dummies, and it's not our
fault when you don't get
messages. I would have guessed a higher number than
4%...
;-) In the case of AOL, of course, they are now allowing their
*own*
employees to get "real" email, since AOL admits to *losing* 3%-5% of
*all*
messages that go through their systems.
Another common problem is that emails do NOT come through when members
send
them "formatted", since we use list software that requires "plain
text". If
your message CC'd other people, they receive messages
directly. But the
Team3S list (and you) do not see them as list posts
unless they were sent
correctly..., as Plain Text. Whenever a message
does not go through, I see it
as a "bounce". Usually, the
'member' bounces are simply because people do
not follow the list protocols,
which *all* of us have agreed to: Plain Text,
messages smaller than 10k, no
attachments....
Finally... Members get answers to their questions if they have used a
proper
subject line, AND phrased their questions correctly, AND if someone
who knows
the answer happens to be on line, AND if those members happen to
have the time
to respond. Most of us are busy professionals, and
(especially during the
holidays, or weekends) free time is at a
premium. If no one answers you, it
could be that no one *who is
available* knows the answer!
In the future, please keep such discussions OFF the list and don't bother
the
other several hundred people who are NOT 'missing emails'. It gives
the
impression that there is a problem when none exists. Do the right
thing -
contact the Admins to deal with problems, perceived or
otherwise. After
all... That IS one of our rules-- Technical
Posts ONLY!
Our list, websites, software and hardware are all working just fine.
Forrest
for the Admins
- -----------------------------------
> I too have been having probs
with the emails, like the other day I kept
> sending out the OT FS G tech
info and never saw it come up till I added
> that I had not seen it up yet
and a few told me it had come up all 3
> times, but still, I did not
receive those messages. Makes me wonder what
> other messages I could be
missing.
>
> Matt Nelson
> 1994 RT TT
>
BlackLight@Planetice.Net>
www.BlackLight.5u.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 07:46:47 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Videos
Here's a possible solution. A good friend of mine owns a
media
technology company that can take VHS, digitize it, and burn the
digital
image to a CD for playback in any computer. I'm sure he'd be
willing to
help out, although I will caution now--it usually takes him
forever!
I'm sure everyone knows someone who has a VHS camcorder. I'd
be happy
to talk to him and get a commitment from him, including what it
would
cost. I'm sure the cost would NOT be high--perhaps reasonable
enough
that we can sell CDs for $4-5 each, including shipping.
After
subtracting the cost of the CD (he gets them by the truckload, so
the
cost would be minimal), shipping, and labor, the remainder could
be
donated to the list.
Just a thought.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 07:58:47 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Powersteering
Perhaps the only "special" tool you need is to separate the
inner
tie-rod from the rack. That can be a real PITA without the proper
tool.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh
[mailto:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:02
AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Powersteering
No special tools are needed, but perhaps one of those special
wrenches
used for fluid/brake lines would be nice. I just used a
regular open end
wrench though. This job is a real PITA!!! but it is
straight forward. I
purchased a rebuilt rack from Autozone for (I
think) around $180. I had to remove
and replace twice, since the first
one I got leaked like a sieve :(. The
second one is fine though.
- -Ken
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 08:33:46 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Videos
Has anyone ever seen a magazine distributed purely on CD?
Might cut
initial production costs enough to get your proposed magazine off
the ground.
Granted I love the full sized glossy color spreads of sleek
speed machines
with bodacious nubility draped on the fender as much as the
next guy but if
initial costs are an issue.......
<snip>
>
> 2) How about burning the clips to CD, and
each CD costs enough to pay for
> the CD itself plus labor... and maybe a
little extra to help out the list?
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt
tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 07:52:17 -0800
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team3S Admin message (was: videos, magazines, etc.)
Folks...
I hate to spoil the party but this has gone on long enough. There
are
now a number of people who have volunteered to "create" a
magazine,
newsletter, video, whatever, that you can connect with each
other
privately. While no one seems to have noted that this entire thread
has
no technical content whatsoever, I am one of many listmembers who
is
tired of reading more ideas, questions, and comments about how to
launch
any one of these concepts. Please check the archives and contact
the
people who want to get involved privately. An alternative is to
take
this thread to another list (e.g., 3si) where they welcome long
chats
about anything and everything.
BTW...if you feel like taking exception to this message, please reply
to
the Admins privately (in the cc line of this e-mail), we don't need
a
thread about whether or not magazines are technical in nature.
Looking forward...Chris (Team3S Admin)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rivenburg, Pete
[mailto:privenburg@firstam.com]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 7:34
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Videos
Has anyone ever seen a magazine distributed purely on CD?
Might cut
initial production costs enough to get your proposed magazine
off the ground.
Granted I love the full sized glossy color spreads of
sleek speed machines
with bodacious nubility draped on the fender as
much as the next guy but if
initial costs are an issue.......
<snip>
>
> 2) How about burning the clips to CD, and
each CD costs enough to pay
> for the CD itself plus labor... and maybe a
little extra to help out
> the list?
>
> Riyan
> 93
stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 12:33:21 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
'99 Frontend
Okay, so I guess I never noticed them... Then what did people with
the
'99 conversion do? Did you just take the ducts out, replace them or
just
leave 'em in place? Are they noticeable w/ the '99 bumper?
Alex
'95VR4 under the knife
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 09:44:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
'99 Frontend
Alex,
I recently completed the 99 conversion. Probably the
most
recent member to do so.
The ducts are removed and sitting in a box.
So
long as you don't put a barrier across the nose
(inside), then air flow is
still excellent.
Roger L
F15DOC
- --- Alex Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com> wrote:
> Okay, so I
guess I never noticed them... Then what
> did people with the '99
conversion do? Did you just
> take the ducts out, replace them or just
leave 'em
> in place? Are they noticeable w/ the '99 bumper?
>
> Alex
> '95VR4 under the knife
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 12:46:26 -0500
From:
songsay@cs.comSubject: Team3S: egr
question
does anyone know what blocking the egr valve does, or is anyone currently
using one. and what is the benefit of it. now is it blocked or bypassed?
any and all comments appreciated.
songsay
92vr4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 13:23:16 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
egr question
The egr valve is an emissions control thing. It allows exhaust
gases
from the rear bank to enter the plenum (i.e. Exhaust Gas
Recirculation).
In the end, the only advantage to blocking it off (IMHO) is a
cleaner
intake. There is no performance gain because the valve
automatically
closes off at WOT.
That being said, I blocked mine off... because...
It's blocked off by removing the pipe that connects to the plenum
(on
the back) and covering both openings with some sort of a plate.
AFAIK, it may throw a CE code on second gens (did on mine) if you
drive
a certain way (I think you need to be cruising at below 2000 rpm
or
something), but shouldn't on 1st gens.
If you consider blocking it off - our very own Bob K (ek2mfg) makes
a
very nice one (that's the one I bought) - fit perfectly.
</plug> :)
Alex
------------------------------
The EGR pipe goes from the rear O2 housing/precat to the intake
manifold.
If you sheared one for the precat bolts, then it is a standard M8
bolt. Any
bolt would work, but I suggest that you should use anti-seize on
the
threads. Most of it will probably burn off, but still, the OEMs
use
anti-seize on the O2 sensor threads, hence it must be beneficial.
Philip
- ---------------------
Can someone confirm this for me - I need a replacement for the bolt
on
the EGR pipe (the pipe that goes from the valve to the plenum).
I
sheared of one of the bolts that connect the pipe to the valve. I
looked
it up on CAPS and got PN MD118580 (Bolt, Exhaust Manifold Flange,
8x20)
but I wasn't too sure whether I clicked the right thing...
Also, if satan doesn't have it in stock (which I'm sure they won't)
is
there any reason I can't just get an 8x20 bolt from the hardware
store?
Does the fact that it sits right on top of the rear turbo create
any
restrictions on the type of bolt I can use?
------------------------------
Johns alignment shop Gloucester, Massachusetts. 978-282-.0055. Best
there
is around. Price 50.00 4 wheel alignment. Don't know if any
of you have
heard of Cape Ann Auto Body? If not, they refer there cars
to Johns
alignment shop. People from all over the world ship there
Gullwings and all
other exotic cars there for full restoration. Cars from
there have won the
Concourse in California.. Million dollar cars being sent
to Johns alignment
shop---you know he is good.. He also does all the work
himself.. Hope this
helps someone out
Jack
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 11, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: alignment
> That's okay AI Nut - at least I wasn't poking fun at Jim Floyd's
"close
> encounters of the third kind" light array on the front of his
VR-4.
>
> I'm still willing to drive to Indiana (or somewhere 12
hours away at
> that) to get a full alignment that is lifetime
guaranteed. I think Cody
> speaks of these from time to
time.
>
> So if anyone within 6-8 hours of Pittsburgh has
suggestions on alignment
> shops please let me know or get them added to
the "good guys" list on
> Team3S.
>
> --Flash!
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: AINut
> Sent: Wednesday, December
11, 2002 16:49
>
> Dang it, this having to manually fill in the
REPLY for the message to go
> to the list is really aggravating.
This is the only list where this is
> mandatory.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 21:43:29 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: egr question
I can second Alex's shameless plug for Bob K. (ek2mfg). I just received a
set
of his EGR block-off plates (3) and they are nicely manufactured. I have
not
installed them yet, but the benefit I anticipate is a cleaner plenum and
the
elimination of any potential leak through the EGR system during boost.
[I also
bought the ek2mfg fuel rail adapter kit - another beautiful product
(but not
installed yet).]
As Alex mentioned, there really should be no noticeable performance
benefit,
assuming the EGR system is in good operating condition, because the
system
is "blocked off" by design at idle and WOT operation. During
cruising, the EGR
is supposed to recycle some of the inert exhaust gas
through the engine to
slightly lower the combustion temperature and
therefore slightly lower the
emission of NOx - a pollutant generated only at
very high temperatures.
However, if an engine runs a little rich during
"cruise", I would guess a
decent amount of carbon products also get passed
with the inert gas.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#24
**************************************