Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Sunday, December 8 2002   Volume 02 : Number 019
 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 01:47:35 -0500
From: "David Thrower" <repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: R12 replacements
 
 Exposure to a flame causes R-12 to break down to phosgene gas. (mustard
gas) So if your smoking a cigarette in an area where there is a high concentration of it, it will kill you quick. Open flame heaters with no exhaust outside the building will do the same. Dave Thrower 92 Stealth R/T TT Section 608 & 609 Universal Refrigeration Cert.
 
 To my knowledge heat causes R-12 [ and maybe others ????? ] to form Phosgene gas.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:17:39 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
 
The wastegate solenoid is only supposed to energize when the turbos reach max boost. Any clicking at other times is not supposed to happen. Maybe the clicking is coming from somewhere else?
 
Starter solenoids are totally different.
 
Steve
 
: Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
 

> Here's my .02 ...  In my experience with a friends previous car...(a
> 95 Camaro) the starter solenoid would make really loud clicking
> noises, it would click for a couple seconds and then start.  Finally
> one day it didn't start at all.  We replaced the starter solenoid
> and that's all it was, just a faulty solenoid.  Once replaced no
> more noises and immediate start.
>
> I've never worked with turbos or even know what a wastegate solenoid
> looks like, SO I might be totally wrong, but I'm assuming its just a
> wire that goes to the wastegate and if it's faulty and going out it
> would make the same noises that the Camaro's starter solenoid did.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 14:25:22 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
 
Oskar,
IMHO, speculation. But it doesn't hurt to perform a visual and olfactory
inspection of the ECU for leaking capacitors in the older models. As I have
mentioned before, to see if a solenoid (any of them) is the source of a noise
just unplug the electrical connector.
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:30:23 -0600
From: "Oskar Persson" <osk@attbi.com>
 
Is there some truth to this statement, or is it speculation?
 
Reason for asking is that both my '95 TTs, and most of my friends TTs behave like this.  I bought my first TT when it was only 3 years old, and the ticking was present already then.  I have a hard time thinking it is the ECU going out.  It always happens when the ambient temperature gets down in the lower 40s.
 
Oskar
Minnesota
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Cooper
 
The solenoid wont be faulty, more likely the thing that drives it, the ECU on its way out.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 11:35:13 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel sizing?
 
bob atkins wrote:
I'm not familiar with the JIC.  We've had Teins on two VR4s ....... '94
and '97.  Although we haven't actually measured the diameters of the
stock tubes and Teins, they are, of course mounted in the same positions
and 'appear' to be approximately the same diameter.  The spring perch on
the stock strut isn't the problem assuming you go shorter rather than
taller in tire diameter. Yes, the stock springs are MUCH larger in
diameter than the Teins ........ but, they are up above the tires
(again, assuming the diameter of the tires used is at least that of the
stock tires (245-40x18s).   Tight, but tire treads don't contact the
bottom of the perch.  Tire sidewalls contacting the strut tube is the
real problem with stock offset and wider tires.
 
My comments are related to stock offset wheels.  In your case ...... the
38mm offset will allow for a wider rim and tires without the danger of
rubbing the tubes.  More of the rim width (and tire) is to the outside
of your wheels as compared to a stock offset wheel.  Like you said, the
smaller diameter springs on the Teins helps keep things out of the way.
 On the '94 though, we could NOT put 265-35x18s (Yokohoma's) on with
stock rims (and teins)  255s did fit.  Yet on my completely stock '93
VR4 (since have sold) I could fit 275-40x17 Eagle F1s.  Really depends
on the manufacturer as well .......... there's a big difference in
dimensions for the same size tires.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
>Dennis,
>You've got me confused here - You must be looking at a different TEIN
>or JIC than the HA or the FLT-A2 respectively.
>
>MAJOR DIFFERENCE with stock front strut / spring.
>
>STOCK STRUT - Big hat spring perch extends out over the tire and entire
>spring lives ABOVE the tire - spring is about 8" diameter
>
>JIC/TEIN STRUT - Coilover design.  small spring perch threaded on strut
>and spring descends down below the inside top edge of rim (all the way
>down behind the tire - spring is about 4" diameter.
>
>BOTTOM LINE - TEIN and JIC occupy greater space inboard of the Rim/Tire
>than Stock Struts do -
>
>Make no mistake about this in your suspension and rim upgrade planning.
>
>FURTHER - I have:
>1) TEIN-HA
>2) Enkei RPM-2 18x9 38mm offset
>3) Kumho ecstaV700 265x35x18
>
>and I have
>2a) Stock 18x8.5  46mm offset - 6 spoke Chromies
>3a) Potenza RE730, 245x40x18
>
>I was REALLY NERVOUS about the 265's - Was pleasantly surprised.  Fact
>is with the track setup (Enkei/Kumho) I have, there is significantly
>greater strut AND caliper clearance between the tire and rim
>respectively than with the stock setup.  One thing to note here though
>is that the race tire ecstaV700 does not have the protruding rim
>protector bead that most street tires in performance profiles have
>
>g8rbob
>'99VR-4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 11:48:02 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tein, JIC, wide rims and negative camber
 
Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
 
> Could Tein and JIC cause some additional problems with rim selection?
> If they are fatter (the spring goes below the upper edge of the rim),
> would some wide rims with high offset rub against the spring if I dial
> in a largest negative camber possible? Would the same rims rub more or
> less on the stock suspension?
>
> Tein/JIC guys, what front camber and what rims are you running?
>
> Philip
 
Again, a lot of people on this board have had good experiences with
Teins and JICs.  The wheel selections (because of distances to
suspension) are limited for our car, but the higher end wheels with more
selections in offset will take care of that issue.  Bob's selection of
38mm offset (similar to mine with the OZF1s) works well..
 
Has anyone tried 9.5" or 10" rims and with what offset and tire size???
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 12:00:46 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspensions and Ride Quality
 
Tein supposedly makes many different springs for their coilovers.  I'm
thinking of changing to a softer spring by trying to find a set that is
about 10-15% stiffer than stock.  The springs that came with the Teins
should have been accompanied by a list of good nephrologists .........
just a tad too stiff for the terrible roads of Pennsylvania!!  Besides,
with the Saner bars now I have less need for increased rate at each
corner.  One thing to consider, however, the lower the car the more
potential of bottoming out over rough roads using stock spring rates.
 don't know how much you're planning on lowering ....... be careful.
 Mine in about 2" lower.  I'm apprehensive about going too soft for that
reason.
 
Anyone know the spring rates of both the front and rears on the various
VR4s??
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 10:19:47 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Group buy for the lightest 18x9 wheel you're going to find for the 3/S
 
http://300zxclub.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=48727
 
There's more info on their Japanese website: http://www.first-inc.co.jp
Translator: http://babelfish.altavista.com
 
I'm getting the P1 QF's because to my knowledge they are THE lightest 18x9 wheel readily available with the correct offset for the 3/S. 14.77 pounds each. To put that into perspective if you're running stock 18" chromies you would drop 53 pounds worth of rotation mass from these wheels alone.
 
The P1 QF's are not cheap and they're no steal. The Japanese retail price is the equivalent to $534.33 and we're going to pay more because they have to ship them across the pond. The other Buddy Club models are cheaper. I did a couple searches and there are a few shops selling Buddy Club wheels in the states but they're asking quite a bit more than the prices for this group buy.
 
18x9 +35mm should fit no problem and have plenty of clearance by the front strut for 275's, lowering, or an intrusive coilover setup. They should stick out 0.669" further than stock and 0.197" further than this: http://members.cox.net/trevorlj/5.jpg
Keep in mind those are 275/35/18's on 18x9's (+40mm offset) so they're a little wider than normal 245's.
 
The only kicker is whether or not they'll clear the calipers. Since I don't know of anyone that's ever put these wheels on a 3/S I can't say for certain that they'll clear. Judging by the looks of it the spokes are pretty skinny...I don't think it'll be a problem and I'm willing to give it a shot.
 
Trevor James
96 R/T TT, 11.65@119.8 on 100 octane & 11.82@116.7 on 93 octane
 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:22:27 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Team3S: Team 3S:  20hp Mod question?
 
I came across this mod, and was just wondering if this How-To is correct. 20hp from removing a piece of plastic?
 
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244606&page=3
 
Doesn't apply to me, I'm just curious...
 
- -Erik Petterson
'91 Stealth
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 14:28:49 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Team 3S:  20hp Mod question?
 
That is actually right. That restrictor ring makes the waste gates open earlier and lowers the set boost levels to ~9psi from ~12
 
I think Jeff L's page has more info on that...
 
Alex.
'95 VR4
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik Petterson
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 2:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: Team 3S: 20hp Mod question?
 
I came across this mod, and was just wondering if this How-To is correct. 20hp from removing a piece of plastic?
 
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=244606&page=3
 
Doesn't apply to me, I'm just curious...
 
- -Erik Petterson
'91 Stealth
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 21:03:07 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Team 3S:  20hp Mod question?
 
Mbc - 5 dollar aquarium valve...
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut [mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Team 3S: 20hp Mod question?
 
Will that work on the engines that already have 320 hp?  Is there some equally
easy way to raise boost on a stock machine?
 
Thanks,
AI Nut
 
Alex Pedenko wrote:
> That is actually right. That restrictor ring makes the wastegates
> open earlier and lowers the set boost levels to ~9psi from ~12
>
> I think Jeff L's page has more info on that...
>
> Alex.
> '95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:48:48 -0500
From: "Trevor Paciotti" <sam_or_i@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Team 3S: Anti Lock Brake Malfunction Lamp
 
Hello all, my anti-lock indicator light has come on recently, and I was
wondering if this problem has occurred on anyone else's vehicle. Is it just
a bad relay in the computer? Is it a greater problem than it seems? I know
that the anti-lock brakes aren't working because of this, being that she
locks up in the snow at times. I greatly appreciate any help in this, thanks
guys!
 
Trevor
'91 Dodge Stealth TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:32:57 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Team 3S:  20hp Mod question?
 
When spooling up the wastegate-solenoid is open and pressure is released to the front of the rear turbo. The higher the pressure the more restrictive the solenoid becomes and pressure is built up to the wastegate actuators what starts to open the gates. Removing the restrictor ring (if one is there, mine had none) or boring out the nipples reduces the restrictively and therefore more air/pressure is released and therefore the pressure at the actuators is built up later than normal. It is told that removing the restrictor was the cause for having 320hp in the 2nd gen vs. the 300hp in the first gens.
 
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 8:28 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Team 3S: 20hp Mod question?
 
> That is actually right. That restrictor ring makes the waste gates
> open earlier and lowers the set boost levels to ~9psi from ~12
>
> I think Jeff L's page has more info on that...
>
> Alex.
> '95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #19
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