Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, December 6
2002 Volume 02 : Number 018
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 22:17:49 EST
From:
Rod2414738@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Wastegate solenoid clicking
Hello all! Tonight I finally determined that the annoying ticking
from my
'93 Stealth R/T TT when cold is the wastegate solenoid mounted to
the
firewall. I removed it from the holder and the ticking inside the
car went
away, but I could still feel the solenoid opening and
closing. The click is
maybe a 2 or 3 Hz rate. Do I need to be
concerned driving my car with the
bad solenoid? I'm guessing that the
wastegates will not operate that fast
since they are vacuum
controlled. Should I replace it with an OEM solenoid,
or is there an
aftermarket solenoid that I would be happier with? Currently
my car is
stock (except for a K&N panel filter) and I don't really have any
mods
planned for it.
- -Rod
'93 Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:43:15 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Wastegate solenoid clicking
you could get boostvalve.com MBC and get rid of that solenoid. No more
ticking, and if you ever do decide to mod it, you'll be ready.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:40:05 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
The solenoid wont be faulty, more likely the thing that drives it, the ECU
on its way out.
Steve
> you could get boostvalve.com MBC and get rid of that solenoid. No more
> ticking, and if you ever do decide to mod it, you'll be ready.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 21:49:59 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 5-speed to 6-speed conversion?
Actually, I have been told that racers like the 5 speed better. I can see
how this can be the case with drag racing. 3rd gear in a 5 speed redlines
at 120mph (I think). In 6 speed, they redline at lower speed thus if your
car is modded to run fast, you may need to shift into 4th or hit the rev
limiter for the last few yards.
Just what I heard.
Ether way, you want to get the 24 (or 25?) Spleen Output shaft which I
think comes in all 6 speeds and in late 92-93 5 speeds.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Thursday,
December 05, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: 5-speed to 6-speed
conversion?
While I'm here swapping transfer cases and trannys should I do 5spd to 6spd
conversion? Would I be sacrificing 5-spd long life vs. 6-spd performance?
Or would the Kormex fixes take care of the 6-spd's reliability issues
anyway?
And are there any other factors to consider?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 01:09:03 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
I have a 92 Stealth NA SOHC, with air conditioning. I know the air
condition doesn't work. It was like that when I bought it. I'm not sure if
it is worth fixing because I know it is gonna cost me an arm and a leg.
Since I never think I want to fix the system. Can I remove any parts to
save some weight. Also the belts are still connected to the compressor.
Can I just remove/cut them off? Is it robbing power?
Thanks
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 00:44:43 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
Depends upon what is wrong with it. If it's the A/C clutch, or the
compressor,
look in a junk yard and get something equivalent for probably
$40 or $50. If
it's just low on refrigerant, fix the leak and
recharge. Are you anywhere near
Huntsville, Alabama? When the
A/C is running, yes it can rob a couple of hp.
When off, almost no hp
drain. Of course, it could just be a cheap and simple
fuse 8-).
HTH,
AI Nut
Planet wrote:
> I have a 92 Stealth NA SOHC, with air conditioning. I
know the air
> condition doesn't work. It was like that when I bought it.
I'm not sure
> if it is worth fixing because I know it is gonna cost me
an arm and a
> leg. Since I never think I want to fix the system. Can I
remove any
> parts to save some weight. Also the belts are still
connected to the
> compressor. Can I just remove/cut them off? Is it
robbing power?
>
> Thanks
> Jay
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 00:16:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Brody Martin <
brody_martin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
I have had the same thoughts but it get too hot around
here during the
summertime. I found out that I need a
condenser or whatever that little round
thing is above
the drivers headlight. The only problem is that it
costs a
lot here. Any ideas on where to get one?
I don't think that it would be a big problem to take
the system off the
car. I did it on a different car
and it was easy just time consuming. You
will cut
weight but I don't know how much. What is wrong with
the A/C
system? Is it a simple leak of a part failure?
Brody
93 Stealth
SOHC
> Planet wrote:
> > I have a 92 Stealth NA SOHC, with
air
> conditioning. It was like that when I bought it.
> I'm not
sure if it is worth fixing because I
> know it is gonna cost me an arm and
a leg.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 00:58:06 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Broken air conditioner.
There should be an observation eye somewhere that you can use to see if the
Freon is low on charge. Bubbles appear when you're low (usually there is
still some cooling ability left when you see bubbles). However, if all the
Freon leaked out then the observation eye prob. won't do you much good.
And rather than 3S, I'm speaking "generally" here. When I get my shop manuals
back, I'll try to be more specific. You could also just poke at the Freon
charge/filler valve with a dull pencil or small shaft of some sort and
listen just to see if there's ANY Freon left in there. If you hear no
sound or very little sound, then you could go ahead and put some leakfinder dye
in there since your problem is surely a leak in the system. Drive around a
few days and then see where the dye leaked out.
And remember:
Low Freon = low lubricant circulation
If your compressor still works, you don't want to fry it by letting it run
dry (low on Freon).
Good luck,
Riyan
- -----Original Message-----
From: Planet
Sent: Thursday, December
05, 2002 10:09 PM
Subject: Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
I have a 92 Stealth NA SOHC, with air conditioning. I know the air
condition doesn't work. It was like that when I bought it. I'm not sure if
it is worth fixing because I know it is gonna cost me an arm and a leg.
Since I never think I want to fix the system. Can I remove any parts to
save some weight. Also the belts are still connected to the compressor.
Can I just remove/cut them off? Is it robbing power?
Thanks
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 01:00:59 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Broken air conditioner.
One more thing. If you can fix your A/C system without spending much money,
then you can part it out at your leisure. There's surely someone out there
that needs it.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 08:20:58 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
Maybe $40 or $50 for the part, but wait until to try to recharge it
with
R12 (Freon). That is, if you can even find R12.
Chances are, you'll
need to "upgrade" to R134 (?)--the non-Freon stuff-which
no one will ever convince me is as good and efficient as R12.
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut
[mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 1:45
AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
Depends upon what is wrong with it. If it's the A/C clutch, or the
compressor,
look in a junk yard and get something equivalent for probably
$40 or $50. If
it's just low on refrigerant, fix the leak and
recharge. Are you anywhere near
Huntsville, Alabama? When the
A/C is running, yes it can rob a couple of hp.
When off, almost no hp
drain. Of course, it could just be a cheap and simple
fuse 8-).
HTH,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 14:46:54 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
>> .... If it's the A/C clutch, or the compressor, look in a junk
yard
>> and get something equivalent for probably $40 or $50.
.....
IMHO, it is a complete waste of money to buy a used AC compressor for
direct
installation - unless you know for a fact that the compressor works
and was
just removed from a vehicle. If it has been sitting for any length
of time
(well maybe 6 mo to a year or longer) the seals are likely trashed
(something
to think about when storing the car for extended periods).
Considering that a
typical core charge is around $100, a used compressor in
good condition for
$50 might be worth something for rebuilding. Don't even
consider a used
receiver-drier.
More info on my web pages below.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 15:00:19 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
>> The solenoid wont be faulty, more likely the thing that drives it,
>> the ECU on its way out.
My BC solenoid made the same annoying ticking sound - till I removed it.
However, I was (am) using the HKS EVC IV and its solenoid to control the
wastegates. That was several years ago. I have noticed no problems with my
original 10-year old factory ECU (fingers crossed - but I will be inspecting
the caps this winter). Perhaps coincidentally, boost was never more than 6-7
psi when I used that stock BC solenoid.
Rod,
I doubt there are aftermarket direct replacements. There have got
to be
hundreds of extras "laying around", considering how many owners have
installed
real boost control. Any year should work. If you get a '91-'93
model then
remove the small restrictor in one of the nipples to get '94+
boost levels. My
original is damaged from me fiddling with it; otherwise you
could have it for
free.
If you choose to not replace it, then you could route the hoses correctly
(bypassing the solenoid to let all pressure go to the wastegates and get 6-7
psi max boost) and, optionally, use a small screw clamp (on the hose from
the
y-pipe) to reduce pressure to the wastegates (and get an aftermarket
boost
gauge to be safe). Certainly not the best solution, but very cheap and
it
works (at least it did for me for a year).
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Rod2414738@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday,
December 05, 2002 8:17 PM
Subject: Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
Hello all! Tonight I finally determined that the annoying ticking
from my
'93 Stealth R/T TT when cold is the wastegate solenoid mounted to
the
firewall. ....
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 09:16:24 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
There are a couple of good alternatives to R12 which cost a little more
than the
134a, but cool better. I forget how much our cars need,
something like 53
ounces or so? That'd be at least 4 cans so only
about $100 for R12.
AI Nut
Starkey, Jr., Joseph wrote:
> Maybe $40 or $50 for the part, but wait
until to try to recharge it with
> R12 (Freon). That is, if
you can even find R12. Chances are, you'll
> need to "upgrade" to
R134 (?)--the non-Freon stuff-which no one will
> ever convince me is as
good and efficient as R12.
------------------------------
Jeff says:
>IMHO, it is a complete waste of money to buy a used AC
compressor for
>direct installation - unless you know for a fact that the
compressor works and was
>just removed from a vehicle. If it has been
sitting for any length of time
>(well maybe 6 mo to a year or longer) the
seals are likely trashed
A few years ago, I had an air conditioning client. What Jeff says is
absolutely true. Once a system goes dry, the Freon no longer protects
seals and metal parts, and they quickly corrode. If you put such a part on
your system, it will die quickly. If you remove any air conditioning parts
from your car whilst performing mods or repairs, be certain that the parts
remain sealed from the atmosphere.
Joe says:
>R12 (Freon). That is, if you can even find
R12. Chances are, you'll
need to "upgrade" to R134 (?)--the non-Freon
stuff-which no one will ever convince me is as good and efficient as
R12.
Also absolutely correct. R12 went out of favor because of the Freon scare
in the "Trillion Dollar Hoax" about ozone depletion, and now it is
extremely expensive. R134 works, but only in systems designed for it from
the gitgo. Besides, even if you can keep R134 in a older system (R12
seals cannot contain R134, and must be replaced), the cooling output is a
fraction of R12. Therefore, like Joe suggests, stick with R12 Freon as
long as you can still find it.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
At 09:16 AM 12/6/02 -0600, AINut wrote:
>There are a couple of good
alternatives to R12 which cost a little more
>than the 134a, but cool
better.
Few of the R12 alternatives work well and are a waste of money. If they
actually worked, commercial A/C shops would use them. Anything you can
find in a can (except for R12) at a auto parts store is probably
worthless. Buyer beware! Here's a little something I found with Google:
>Beware of "quick 'n' easy" retrofits being hawked by all kinds of
>places. You might get a mechanic saying that conversion to 134a is
just a matter of vacuuming the system and running-in a charge of
134a. RUN. Or, you might run into someone who wants to replace your
R12 with "FR-12" or "Freeze-12" or "Frigc". These three (and several
others) are simply 134a with an additive that makes it slightly less
violently incompatible with 500sus mineral oil. RUN. You might
also get someone who wants to put OZ-12 or HC-12 into the system.
These two are blends of isobutane and isopropane. They work very well in
R-12 systems, and have no oil incompatibility problems. BUT, they
are flammable. To what degree this concerns you is an individual
matter.
>It's not as clear-cut as you might think, because *all* refrigerants
>are blended with oil in the actual system, and ALL refrigerants are
>violently flammable under catastrophic system breach conditions
>(refrigerant rushes out, creating aerosol mist of oil--BIG flameball
>whether it's R12, R134a, OZ-12, or whatever). These hydrocarbon
blends
>also are super cheap (about $1.25 for enough to charge a few
systems).
>BUT they aren't approved by the relevant regulatory
bodies for use in
>auto A/C systems.
>The best method of repairing an R-12 system is still to repair any
>problems and use R-12. The cost-per-pound savings of the
>less-expensive R134a are more than eaten up in changeover service work
>and reversed in failures that are almost guaranteed to happen.
As I understand it, R12 Freon is still made in third world countries, and
is available worldwide. The USA is, apparently, the only country that
believes the ozone depletion junk science hoax. Here, it is illegal to
sell R12 to anyone other than a licensed air conditioning technician, but
that does not mean it is impossible to get -- just difficult. Therefore, just
repair your a/c with stock parts and reload with R12.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:18:28 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:
R12 replacements
I might've been sleeping or something, but why exactly is the theory of
ozone depletion "junk science"? Maybe I'm just gullible or
something, but I believe it's possible that these gases and vapors and
whatnot that we create w/ our autos, could definitely attack certain
molecules...
-b
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 11:22:01 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
Thanks for all the responses,
I checked the little bubble thing, it is clear and I can see down a bit. I
don't see bubbles or anything. I pressed on the little valve on the hose
coming from the drier and there sounded like there was a good amount of
pressure.
This I am not sure is normal, should the compressor always be spinning?
Even with the a/c turned off, the belt is tight and the compressor is
spinning. The problem is I just don't get cold air when it is turned
on.
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 11:26:23 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
When you say the compressor is spinning, are you talking about the
pulley? Or is the A/C clutch engaged? The pulley will always
be spinning, and sometimes it looks like the compressor is spinning with
it. But it's not unless the A/C clutch is also engaged.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Planet
[mailto:planet.j@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 11:22
AM
Subject: Team3S: Broken air conditioner.
Thanks for all the responses,
I checked the little bubble thing, it is clear and I can see down a bit. I
don't see bubbles or anything. I pressed on the little valve on the hose
coming from the drier and there sounded like there was a good amount of
pressure.
This I am not sure is normal, should the compressor always be spinning?
Even with the a/c turned off, the belt is tight and the compressor is
spinning. The problem is I just don't get cold air when it is turned
on.
Jay
------------------------------
At 10:18 AM 12/6/02 -0600, Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)
wrote:
>I might've been sleeping or something, but why exactly is the
theory of
>ozone depletion "junk science"? Maybe I'm just gullible
or something,
>but I believe it's possible that these gases and vapors
and whatnot
>that we create w/ our autos, could definitely attack certain
>molecules...
In a nutshell, Machine Design magazine called it the "Trillion Dollar Hoax"
a few years ago. Essentially, they say that CFCs have NOTHING to do with
ozone depletion which, like global warming, is a natural phenomenon that
comes and goes every few hundred years. Being in a university, you have
not been exposed to any such politically incorrect theories.
However, this is not the time or forum to discuss ozone depletion, global
warming, or public education.
If you want to discuss any of this off line, please e-mail me privately.
Let's not continue a discussion here, else the listkeepers will frown on
us, and rightly so.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 09:01:28 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: R12 replacements
FWIW --- I'm certified to buy R-12. I took this grueling 20 question open
book test after reading a massive 15 page book on the what's and whys of
Freon. The current problem with buying R12 as an individual is that it's
only available in 30# cans at about $30 per #.
Jim Berry
================================================================
> At 09:16 AM 12/6/02 -0600, AINut wrote:
> >There are a couple
of good alternatives to R12 which cost a little
> >more than the 134a,
but cool better.
>
> Few of the R12 alternatives work well and are a
waste of money. If
> they actually worked, commercial A/C shops would use
them.
Anything you can find in a can (except for R12) at a auto parts store is
probably worthless. Buyer beware! Here's a little something I found with
Google:
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:33:09 +0000
From: "Joshua Keena" <
teamkeena@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: scissor style door conversion
I own a 98 3000GT SL, pearl white with moon roof.
Interested in making a
modification to the doors from their current stock
configuration to a
"scissor" style similar to a Lambo.
Has anyone seen this modification
done? What are the major obstacles in
making the customization?
Is there an aftermarket "hinge" or does anyone
have access to an exotic car
cannibalization sight?
Thank you for your time.
Josh Keena
Kentucky
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 09:42:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
scissor style door conversion
There are several threads on 3SI.org right now about
it... complete with
some sweet pictures.
Perform a search and you will find it on 3SI.
See
ya
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 11:46:46 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: R12 replacements
The R12 replacement that has propane in it is my personal choice for
installation. I can buy R12 and all, but I prefer the propane-based
refrigerants. I use it in my old vehicles. What the article
doesn't tell you
is that R12 and R134a both have their flashpoints, plus all
refrigerants have
some danger associated with them if handled
improperly. For example, R12
combined with moisture in the air will
turn into phosgene gas, a deadly aerosol
poison. There's more but I'd
have to look it all up again 8-).
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 11:51:23 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: R12 replacements
You can still find the 12/20 ounce cans at Autozone and they usually have
the
best price around here.
AI Nut
fastmax wrote:
> FWIW --- I'm certified to buy R-12. I took this
grueling 20 question
> open book test after reading a massive 15 page
book on the what's and
> whys of Freon. The current problem with buying
R12 as an individual is
> that it's only available in 30# cans at about
$30 per #.
>
> Jim
Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 11:37:17 -0800 (PST)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: R12 replacements
by the way, I have heard that R12 is still used in massive quantities
everywhere besides the US. Is this true?
I have heard that the timing of the whole ozone scare fortuitously
coincided with the expiration of Du Pont's patent on R12, at least in the
US. they are remarkably silent about it now. Can we expect
another scare around about 2009 when the R134 patent expires?
I am glad to hear that there are some options.
Dave
On Fri, 6 Dec 2002, AINut wrote:
> The R12 replacement that has propane in it is my personal choice for
> installation. I can buy R12 and all, but I prefer the
propane-based
> refrigerants. I use it in my old vehicles.
What the article doesn't
> tell you is that R12 and R134a both have their
flashpoints, plus all
> refrigerants have some danger associated with
them if handled
> improperly. For example, R12 combined with
moisture in the air will
> turn into phosgene gas, a deadly aerosol
poison. There's more but I'd
> have to look it all up again
8-).
>
> AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 15:00:23 -0600
From: "Danny Swanson" <
dizzydan_02@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: another question about air conditioners
When I turned on my air conditioner one day it made a click noise and no
air
blew out of it. I tried turning the heat on and no air came
out. I was
wondering if anyone knew what happened and what that
clicking sound might
have been when my air conditioner quit working.
I'm guessing a fuse to the
fan or something like that but how would I check
one of the big black fuses
to see if its bad?
Thanks,
Danny
------------------------------
We just put the GAB struts in front, so I got a chance to look at
everything closely once again.
I have the Ground Control setup with short Eibach springs, and the
installation of camber plates took away all my adjustment room, because
plates drop the car two inches. If you plan to install camber plates with
a GC system, be sure to get long springs. Otherwise, you'll have my
problem: e.g., my car is lowered to the max yet it is adjusted as high as
it will go on the threaded collar.
See
www.ground-control.com (go
to application guide) for a picture of the GC system. The threaded collar
bottoms into the OEM spring landing.
I'd like to get my height adjustment back so we can corner weight the car.
Ground Control's solution is to buy longer springs at $90 each. Hmph.
There's gotta be a better way.
Whaddaya think of these ideas?
Solution #1: If I could raise the threaded sleeve collar up an inch or two,
I would get my adjustment back. I thought that by slipping a fat 1-2 in.
high spacer over the strut, it would give the GC collar something else to
bottom on. Anybody tried this? I am afraid that the weight and tension
might bend or split any ordinary spacer, so what metal should it be made from?.
Should the top of the spacer have a lip or a landing to keep the threaded
sleeve collar from splitting or spreading? After all, it's designed to fit
into the spring landing, so maybe it expects such protection.
Solution #2: If GC would just make a longer adjustment collar, it would
solve the problem. Alas, they'd rather sell longer springs. Anybody got
any idea how we could fabricate such a threaded collar? Is this something
any machine shop could make? Or is the threaded collar made out of some
miracle metal, like unobtanium?
Solution #3: Can a spring shop duplicate what I have (550 lb springs), and
just wind them an inch or so longer? Is there any magic in Eibach
springs?
Any other ideas? I had this discussion with GC about a year ago, and their
solution was longer springs. Maybe something has been developed
since.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 17:27:55 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tein, JIC, wide rims and negative camber
Philip,
I had to use the H & R 15mm track spacers to clear my Big Reds with the
aftermarket 18in. rims I'm using. The additional benefit of course
being slightly less understeer at the track. The rims came from
Discount Tire and the offset was supposed to be within 1-2mm of the stock
rims.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Sent: Friday,
December 06, 2002 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tein, JIC, wide rims and
negative camber
Thanks for the info, Dave.
Do you have to run those spacers, or you run them only because you want to?
And what offset disks do you have?
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:30:23 -0600
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Wastegate solenoid clicking
Is there some truth to this statement, or is it speculation?
Reason for asking is that both my '95 TTs, and most of my friends
TTs
behave like this. I bought my first TT when it was only 3 years
old,
and the ticking was present already then. I have a hard time
thinking
it is the ECU going out. It always happens when the ambient
temperature
gets down in the lower 40s.
Oskar
Minnesota
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Cooper
The solenoid wont be faulty, more likely the thing that drives it,
the
ECU
on its way out.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:10:07 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: R12 replacements
R-12 at Autozone is incorrect, at least in California. I see on the web I
can buy
12 one pound cans for about $300 but you need to be certified. I'd be
surprised
if Autozone would stock anything they could only sell to customers
with some sort
of certification.
To my knowledge heat causes R-12 [ and maybe others ????? ] to form
Phosgene
gas.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 19:48:33 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wastegate solenoid clicking
Here's my .02 ... In my experience with a friends previous car...(a
95
Camaro) the starter solenoid would make really loud clicking noises,
it
would click for a couple seconds and then start. Finally one day it
didn't
start at all. We replaced the starter solenoid and that's all it
was, just
a faulty solenoid. Once replaced no more noises and immediate
start.
I've never worked with turbos or even know what a wastegate solenoid
looks
like, SO I might be totally wrong, but I'm assuming its just a wire
that
goes to the wastegate and if it's faulty and going out it would make
the
same noises that the Camaro's starter solenoid did.
I would replace the solenoid first.
- -Erik Petterson
'91 Stealth
> Is there some truth to this statement, or is it
speculation?
>
> Reason for asking is that both my '95 TTs, and most
of my friends TTs
> behave like this. I bought my first TT when it
was only 3 years old,
> and the ticking was present already then. I
have a hard time thinking
> it is the ECU going out. It always
happens when the ambient temperature
> gets down in the lower
40s.
>
> Oskar
> Minnesota
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 20:33:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Maryland Members
This may be off topic slightly if so, sorry...
I need someone to look at
a VR4 for me.
It is located in Maryland.
If anyone on this board is in
that area, familiar with
the VR4 and willing to check one out for me,
please
send me a note privately.
Sincerely,
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#18
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