Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, December 4 2002 Volume
02 : Number 016
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 10:20:37 -0600
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 6-speed trans questions...
I have a couple of possible issues (adjustments?) with the trans in my
1994 VR4, and wanted to bounce this off the list. Possibly it's just
that I don't know what to expect from the beast, as the first one I've
driven is the one I own.
I was concerned about the shifting smoothness of the trans so I changed
out the oil (whatever was in there) for the recommended 50/50 blend of
MTL and MTL-90. The shifting is now much smoother and faster,
particularly in the 1-2 range, but:
Should I be able to downshift to 1st at speeds above 1-2 MPH, and if so,
what is the usual point the trans will allow the shift to be done? Could
this indicate a worn synchro on 1st gear?
Where is the normal 'neutral' point of the shifter? I have the
impression that the lever should align with the 3-4 forks when left to
itself, but mine aligns somewhere just to the right of the 1-2 forks
(makes it a REAL pain to find 5 and 6 from there). Can this be taken
care of by adjusting the control cables?
Thanks,
Jon
------------------------------
Well, that's how I see most all shops do it.
Port matching assumes runner widening.
IMHO, the right way to do this, is via extrude honing.
On Tue, 3 Dec 2002, fastmax wrote:
> That will work in some cases but often the gasket is as much as 1/8"
> bigger than the ports so you just have a wide spot in the flow --- not
> a good thing. For the most part the book sez don't gasket match unless
> you can do the whole runner.
>
> Jim Berry
===================================================
------------------------------
*heh*
Well, you asked about port MATCHING, and that's how you'd do that.
Runner work is just an option most of the time.
I EXHoned the Celica manifold, and got a 22% increase in CRM.
On Tue, 3 Dec 2002, fastmax wrote:
> I agree on extrude honing but current finances prohibit that --- it's
> a pretty expensive operation. Unless, of course, Speedtoys would
like
> to become a sponsor of a nice red 93 TT --- as primary sponsor
you'd
> have your choice of locations for your decals. I could even set up
a
> corporate ride along at the track for your many employees, plus
I'm
> willing to give motivational speeches at corporate
functions.
>
> Jim
Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 09:16:37 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Port matching
I agree on extrude honing but current finances prohibit that --- it's a
pretty expensive operation. Unless, of course, Speedtoys would like to
become a sponsor of a nice red 93 TT --- as primary sponsor you'd have
your choice of locations for your decals. I could even set up a corporate
ride along at the track for your many employees, plus I'm willing to give
motivational speeches at corporate functions.
Jim Berry
======================================================
------------------------------
I am not a porting expert but I read a great article on it by Joe
Mondello a Chevy Porting expert and Oldsmobile performance guru. He
has some articles on his website:
Below are some suggestions he made in his technical manual that I
didn't see listed on his website. (I am listing this from memory, I
sold
my manual with my 69 Cutlass convertible 4 years ago)
1. Gasket matching is NOT the best way to port. The stock Gasket is
usually much larger than the passage so gasket matching will cause a
bulge in the intake path. For example having a 2" dia passage expand
to 2 1/2" dia passage them go back down to a 2" dia passage may
actually
hurt performance.
2. You want Smooth flow in 1 direction, Your goal is to have
intake
flow into cylinder and exhaust flow out of cylinder. So you want to
port the downstream portion as much as possible.
For example the joint
between the 2 intake plenums.
You want to port the lower intake plenum so
that air flowing into it
does not hit a step, BUT you do not care if there
is a step if the
air is flowing in the wrong direction. He stated a
mistake people
often make is porting heads to match headers, the step going
into a
larger diameter header will prevent exhaust from being sucked back
into cylinder. Porting the head too much on exhaust side may cause
you to loose the anti-reversion effect and loose power. I have no
idea if this applies to turbo cars too.
3. To mark cylinders cut a piece of very thick paper (or thin
cardboard) in the shape of the outer edge of the gaskets, including
mounting holes Don’t cut out holes for the ports. Apply
dyechem to
both mating parts , install this paper like a gasket and bolt the
2
parts together. Then unbolt the parts and you will see how closely
your ports match by the imprints, and dye, on the paper gasket, Then
use
the upstream imprint as a guide to port the downstream part. I
used an
X-acto knife to cut he upstream port in the gasket then
scribed the upstream
profile on the downstream part. It is more
important to get all ports
matched in size than to try to make every
port as large as possible.
I ported a set old 350 olds heads and some parts were mis-aligned by
as
much as 3/16”! I checked my 3000Gt and the parts were so close
that the only parts I ported were the O2 housing and the exhaust
manifolds. I couldn’t port too much because These
parts really need
to have weld added so that you don’t port
completely through the
tubing. See pictures on my website.
Unfortunately I had my valves done before I looked into porting my VR-
4’s heads I do wish that I had polished my combustion chambers
to
reduce the chance of detonation. The castings around the valve
guides also had room for improvement. But one thing I learned form my
Olds heads is that it is REALLY easily to slip and nick the valve
seat
so I would not port in this area unless I was planning on
getting a valve
job afterwards.
Original message below.
> I'm looking to port match a few components
--- head to manifold,
> turbo to precat eliminator etc. --- any tips on
marking the
> surfaces to be matched. Once mated the openings are no
longer
> visible so there's no way to mark the two mating surfaces
---
> comments anyone.
>
> Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 10:35:38 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: ECS light problem
Hi Folks: My ECS light on the dash of my 92 Stealth TT has been
acting erratically. Sometimes it is on and working properly.
Sometimes it is off= . Sometimes both =B3tour=B2 and =B3sport=B9 flash
together at the same time. Sometimes when I turn off the car and restart it
everything clears up. Other times not. Has anybody run into this
before?
Chip Greenberg
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 09:39:34 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Port matching
Since you didn't specify which manifold you were going to be port matching
and most of your other work listed was on the exhaust side, I'd caution
you with this. It is not a good idea for your exhaust manifold and
head output ports to be the exact same size. Ideally your Exhaust
manifold or headers should have a slightly larger port size then your head
exhaust port. This "step" really helps reduce the effects of
reversion pulses shoving exhaust back into your cylinder. If the
ports are the same size (or even worse, the head port is bigger then the exhaust
manifold port) the result can be worse then if you had not ported it at
all. That said, everything downstream of your manifold could be port
matched for a flow improvement.
- -James
95 VR-4
(with the intake side ported and the No Alternator
Mod)
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Port
matching
I agree on extrude honing but current finances prohibit that --- it's a
pretty expensive operation. Unless, of course, Speedtoys would like to
become a sponsor of a nice red 93 TT --- as primary sponsor you'd have
your choice of locations for your decals. I could even set up a corporate
ride along at the track for your many employees, plus I'm willing to give
motivational speeches at corporate functions.
Jim Berry
======================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> Well, that's how I see most all shops do it.
>
> Port
matching assumes runner widening.
>
> IMHO, the right way to do
this, is via extrude honing.
------------------------------
You do not use the OEM gasket for that! You make your own gasket using
only
one of the two mating ports. Then you align that gasket with the other
port
and grind off everything that sticks out with a Dremel tool. Then you
make
another gasket using the other port and grind out the original port and
you
are done.
Philip
- -------------------------------------------------------------
That will work in some cases but often the gasket is as much as 1/8"
bigger
than the ports so you just have a wide spot in the flow --- not a
good
thing.
For the most part the book sez don't gasket match unless you can do
the
whole runner.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 10:45:19 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECS light problem
Hi AI
Nope, the battery is less than a year old. Everything
else
including starting seems fine.
> Low battery?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 10:56:56 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECS light problem
Fantastic. Thanks James!
> This is a common occurrence when there is a problem with the
wiring
> harness on top of the struts (under the rubber caps in the
front).
> Remove the caps, check the wiring, and solder where
necessary. Could
> be something else, but that's usually what it
is.
>
> -James
> 95 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 09:59:05 -0800
From: "eK2mfg" <
eK2mfg@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Port Matching
OK now I am worried, I was going to CNC machine the exhaust ports to
match
the header flanges I had made. Now this is bad? It wont have a step
that was
mentioned earlier, but a smooth as possible chamber (not extrude
honed) all
CNC cut. then down the tubes a bit a collector to scavenge the
gasses and
get some benefit from that idea. Am I heading the wrong direction
here? I
will be going with more mods to the heads to warrant the work.
How
much of a step is needed? I have 1/8" now...my flange matches the
gasket
perfectly :) it is what I do :)
So how much then 1/16th? if it's done right
and no bulb as it were put is
there then continue?
James let me know before I start this...don't want to waist a set
of
heads....also the area at the bottom of the exhaust side of the head is
very
thin, I will be having filled by our welders to remove this
condition.
let me know.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:27:45 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Port Matching
Around 2 mm (~.060 to .080) is usually enough.
- -James
95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: eK2mfg [mailto:eK2mfg@attbi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Port
Matching
OK now I am worried, I was going to CNC machine the exhaust ports
to
match the header flanges I had made. Now this is bad? It wont have
a
step that was mentioned earlier, but a smooth as possible chamber
(not
extrude honed) all CNC cut. then down the tubes a bit a collector
to
scavenge the gasses and get some benefit from that idea. Am I
heading
the wrong direction here? I will be going with more mods to the
heads
to warrant the work. How much of a step is needed? I have 1/8"
now...my
flange matches the gasket perfectly :) it is what I do :) So how
much
then 1/16th? if it's done right and no bulb as it were put is there
then
continue?
James let me know before I start this...don't want to waist a set
of
heads....also the area at the bottom of the exhaust side of the head
is
very thin, I will be having filled by our welders to remove
this
condition.
let me know.
------------------------------
I wonder where that 2-mm step came from? This step sounds just
as
reasonable as removing all the honeycombs from a MAS to
improve
performance.
There is already something in the exhaust system that "reduces
the
effects of reversion pulses shoving exhaust back into your
cylinder". It is
called the exhaust valves.
Philip
- --------------------------------------------------
Since you didn't specify which manifold you were going to be
port
matching and most of your other work listed was on the exhaust side,
I'd
caution you with this. It is not a good idea for your exhaust
manifold
and head output ports to be the exact same size. Ideally your
Exhaust
manifold or headers should have a slightly larger port size then
your
head exhaust port. This "step" really helps reduce the effects
of
reversion pulses shoving exhaust back into your cylinder. If the
ports
are the same size (or even worse, the head port is bigger then
the
exhaust manifold port) the result can be worse then if you had
not
ported it at all. That said, everything downstream of your
manifold
could be port matched for a flow improvement.
- -James
95 VR-4
(with the intake side ported and the No Alternator
Mod)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 11:04:56 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Port matching
Actually that would be backwards. I'm not aware of any car that
comes
"Port Matched" from the factory, the step is there stock in
virtually
all cars. So using your comparison, removing the step would
be just as
reasonable as removing all the honeycombs from the MAS. ;)
- -James
95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:46
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Port matching
I wonder where that 2-mm step came from? This step sounds just
as
reasonable as removing all the honeycombs from a MAS to
improve
performance.
There is already something in the exhaust system that "reduces
the
effects of reversion pulses shoving exhaust back into your cylinder".
It
is called the exhaust valves.
Philip
------------------------------
So your suggestion is not to do port matching since nobody does it at
the
factory, right? Or port match only a little bit, til you have a step
that
is exactly 2 mm high? Where did that idea and that 2-mm number come
from
anyway?
Philip
- ------------------------------------
Actually that would be backwards. I'm not aware of any car that
comes
"Port Matched" from the factory, the step is there stock in
virtually
all cars. So using your comparison, removing the step would
be just as
reasonable as removing all the honeycombs from the MAS. ;)
- -James
95 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 11:38:48 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: follow-up: my stealth is DONE :(
Weird, 5 years ago Spokane County was 10K.... When I did my last 2
cases
here in King, I didn't ask. Ether way, I had someone refuse to pay on a
court
order. Judge told me you can come in 30 days after the order and get a
piece
of paper that will allow you to withdraw from their bank account... We
were
going to do that, but the company went under and closed their
accounts...
They also told us that you can charge 12% interest past the 30
days...
However, that is all a mute point if you cant sue for however much
damage
they did. Check, maybe over there you can. Takes just a phone
call...
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: eK2mfg
[mailto:eK2mfg@attbi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 9:42
AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: follow-up: my stealth is DONE :(
small claims is 2k Ty...just went through it....at least in
King
County...some run up to 5k.
No lawyers, No judge Judy...just your
story then theirs...then the right to
collect....not a check by any
means...just the right to collect...you can
sell that to a collection agency
for about half the value though.
bobk.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:43:27 -0500
From: "Robbin Liu" <
rliu6@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
My clutch recently went out on me on my 3000gt. The pedal went all the
way
to the ground. When I brought it to the dealership they wanted to
charge me
1100 dollars for the clutch and to replace the hydraulic system in
my car. I
live in the West Lafayette area. Is this a good price
for getting this
problem fixed? They gave me a list of parts they need
to replace and the
price.
1. Clutch master MB555277 - 107.99
2. Slave
cycle MD770482 - 58.56
3. Throw bearing
MD749998 - 30.14
4. Clutch disc
MD745934 - 91.89
5. Pressure plate MD739223 - 105.47
If you can help it would be really great. Should I look for a
different
place or go with that price?
Sincerely,
Robbin Liu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 11:49:48 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Port matching
Bob is machining heads which goes a bit beyond
porting/polishing/port
matching/etc... 2 mm is a ballpark figure.
This is why I used the
words "usually enough" and the symbol ~, because
especially as of late
the "banter group" on this list has been brutal for
non-exact numbers.
I've had a porting job on a small block fords use an 80
thousands size
step (which to save you a trip to the calculator is right near
2 mm).
This is where my number comes from. Bob would probably have
been
happier if I would have said "use 0.07815471123484120 inch for
best
application of this principal" but then I wouldn't be able to use
the
little about symbol (~). :) Truthfully, I understand that you
can
afford and benefit from a much larger step then this (such as the
1/8th
that Bob mentioned), but this is what I've had done and thus what
I
posted. I wouldn't want to state my opinion or anything like that
here.
;)
The "idea" has been around for a long time, it's not my invention and
I
don't take credit for its discovery. It's a proven, and
accepted
practice in NA & Supercharged cars and it has dyno proven
benefits.
There is not AS MUCH data supporting it's application on
turbo-charged
cars but there is some and there is no data to my knowledge
indicating
that this principal hurts the performance of a turbocharged
car. Bob
drives an NA stealth anyway so it's far more applicable for
him.
You could read a bunch of books that all state this principal, or
spend
5 seconds doing a search on Google (whose results I'd be a bit
more
skeptical about) but almost every article you find will mention
this
step.
- -James
95 VR-4
"Suggesting that everyone who has a post
involving
numbers attach their resume as well as 5 references
so the
'engineers' of this group will get warm and fuzzy"
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 11:20
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Port matching
So your suggestion is not to do port matching since nobody does it
at
the factory, right? Or port match only a little bit, til you have a
step
that is exactly 2 mm high? Where did that idea and that 2-mm number
come
from anyway?
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 21:14:13 +0100
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo
Hello,
perhaps a boring theme, but I was ordering a set of original Floor Mats
=
for a 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo today, and was told by the Dealer
=
that these are discontinued.
I would be glad if anyone could give me some advise where to find a set
=
of new original floor mats (what will they cost, and was they delivered
=
only in grey color?) ...
Best regards,
Roger L. Skoglund
------------------------------
> There is already something in the exhaust system that "reduces
>
the effects of reversion pulses shoving exhaust back into your
>
cylinder". It is called the exhaust valves.
True. Part of the function of the exhaust valve is to reduce the
amount of
exhaust gasses returning to the cylinder. It works perfectly
at the correct
rpm. At lower rpms, the value stays open long enough for
the exhaust gas to
flow back into the cylinder. At higher rpms, it will
close too soon to
allow the optimum amount of exhaust gasses to escape.
This is part of the
reason why power bands tend to have a bell curve.
This is a very simplified
explanation and there are many other factors
involved.
I don't think there is anything wrong with port matching to help the
exhaust
valves do their job. It is a practice that is well documented
and proven to
produce more horse power.
What I would like to see tested on a turbo car is a Anti-Reversion
exhaust
manifold.
Here is a description of one:
"These headers use a large primary tube
for top-end power, but in the header
flange, there is a smaller diameter tube
that extends about 1" into the
primary tube. This smaller tube makes a very
good reversion dam and reduces
many of the drawbacks of a large tube header.
The design provides very good
flow in the right direction and resists reverse
flow."
It could be great in reducing back pressure or it could do nothing at
all.
I haven't found anyone that has tested one no a turbo car.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 13:31:13 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T
twinturbo
I bought a set of original floor mats in beige for my '93 vr-4 from
San
Rafael Mitsubishi. They were $93.33 (3S discount). They were
delivered in
about 1 week (to Arizona).
Damien - '93 VR-4 Sorrento Red
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
norbolig@online.no>
Sent: Tuesday,
December 03, 2002 1:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats
for 1991 Dodge Stealth
R/T twinturbo
Hello,
perhaps a boring theme, but I was ordering a set of original Floor Mats
for
a 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo today, and was told by the Dealer
that
these are discontinued.
I would be glad if anyone could give me some advise where to find a set
of
new original floor mats (what will they cost, and was they delivered only
in
grey color?) ...
Best regards,
Roger L. Skoglund
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:39:49 -0600
From: "Scott J. Cowan" <
sjc0u812@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T
twinturbo
Roger et al:
I had the same problem last year. Seems they are not making much
anymore.
But my local dealer was able to get them from somewhere in
Dallas. Reply
off list if I can provide contact info.
Best,
SJ
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 03, 2002 2:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued
Floor Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth
R/T twinturbo
> I bought a set of original floor mats in beige for my '93 vr-4 from
San
> Rafael Mitsubishi. They were $93.33 (3S discount). They
were delivered
> in about 1 week (to Arizona).
>
> Damien -
'93 VR-4 Sorrento Red
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 15:44:50 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T
twinturbo
www.3si.org has custom floor mats.
They're very nice and, except for
the logo, basically OEM.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger L. Skoglund
[mailto:norbolig@online.no]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 3:14
PM
Subject: Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats for 1991
Dodge
Stealth R/T twinturbo
Hello,
perhaps a boring theme, but I was ordering a set of original Floor
Mats
for a 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo today, and was told by the
Dealer
that these are discontinued.
I would be glad if anyone could give me some advise where to find a
set
of new original floor mats (what will they cost, and was they
delivered
only in grey color?) ...
Best regards,
Roger L. Skoglund
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 13:04:20 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
I'm going to take a stab at this since nobody else has yet... I think
that
if your pedal goes down to the floor and nothing happens you are likely
to
just have a hydraulic problem or something much more simple. The only
thing
I can see causing that in the clutch area itself is a broken "fork"
or
throw-out-bearing which both happen but VERY rarely. I think you
likely
popped a hose or a line and that just needs to be fixed. The dealer
is, as
usual, is trying to rape you. Look at the little diagram under the
hood of
where your fluids are. Take off the cap to the clutch fluid tank and
see if
there is any in there. If its dry or very low your clutch is ok.
Cylinders
can fail with fluid still in the tank, so I would check those too,
its just
its not as easy... Where physically are you located?
Far as the work, doing the clutch is a PITA, I know I did mine few
months
ago. $1100 after parts is not that bad for a dealer, but I am sure you
can
get it cheaper. You should be more concerned that 90% of the work they
want
to do is likely not needed.
Biggest advice I can give you is to NOT get a stock clutch if you
are
replacing yours. Its a piece of garbage! It looks like it will be
costing
you about $220 for clutch, pressure plate and bearing. For about
double of
that (AND ITS WORTH IT!) you can get a good clutch from an
aftermarket
source.
Good luck.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robbin Liu
Sent: Tuesday, December
03, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement
price
My clutch recently went out on me on my 3000gt. The pedal went all the
way
to the ground. When I brought it to the dealership they wanted to
charge me
1100 dollars for the clutch and to replace the hydraulic system in
my car. I
live in the West Lafayette area. Is this a good price
for getting this
problem fixed? They gave me a list of parts they need
to replace and the
price.
1. Clutch master MB555277 - 107.99
2. Slave
cycle MD770482 - 58.56
3. Throw bearing
MD749998 - 30.14
4. Clutch disc
MD745934 - 91.89
5. Pressure plate MD739223 - 105.47
If you can help it would be really great. Should I look for a
different
place or go with that price?
Sincerely,
Robbin Liu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 14:32:52 -0700
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Port matching
I port matched my exhaust manifolds, and let me tell ya, there was
nothing but room for improvement on mine. There were some very, very
nasty casting flaws on those things!! Each runner had a hump that rose
into the channel at least a 1/4"! Matched um up and the restriction
was gone. I'd recommend light porting to them. From my
scenario....I
could only improve performance by matching.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 15:45:21 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo
I was also looking for some great floormats, and I ran across this
site:
http://www.lloydmats.com/heavyweight_features.htm
If you click on the dealers link you can get some prices for them, they're
pretty reasonable... Those are definitely some nice mats, and they're at
the top of my Christmas list. =0)
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 13:55:07 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: follow-up: my stealth is DONE :(
Absolutely contact a lawyer. This isn't chump change - a couple
hundred dollars for a consultation and a letter or two is nothing compared
to the $6000. Besides, sometimes the letter from the lawyer is all
it takes to show the business that you're serious.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 8:18
PM
> Subject: Team3S: follow-up: my stealth is DONE :(
>
>
one last thing: I'm actively looking for individuals who are
>
knowledgeable
> with the "law of the automotive industry" as well as an
> attorney that can
> give me some initial advice, if not
more.
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 13:57:54 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued Floor Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T
twinturbo
mats.com
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
norbolig@online.no>
Sent: Tuesday,
December 03, 2002 12:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Regarding: Discontinued Floor
Mats for 1991 Dodge Stealth
R/T twinturbo
Hello,
perhaps a boring theme, but I was ordering a set of original Floor Mats
for
a 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo today, and was told by the Dealer
that
these are discontinued.
I would be glad if anyone could give me some advise where to find a set
of
new original floor mats (what will they cost, and was they delivered only
in
grey color?) ...
Best regards,
Roger L. Skoglund
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 16:07:12 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel
sizing?
Well, I'm still stuck w/ some really ugly factory wheels and some lame
Wal-Mart wheel covers from the previous owner... Still wondering about
offsets, I found a real nice set of 17"x9"'s, w/ a 23mm offset, anyone
know if they'll rub on the fenders? Planning on mounting some 265/40's if
that helps... Who's gone to their local wheelshop and done some fitting
recently? Anyone?
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 11:41 PM
Subject: Team3S:
Wheel sizing?
Does anyone know what the limits are to the wheel sizes that will fit on
our cars? For example, maybe 18x9.5 with 30mm offset? How do you know the
minimum offset until you start rubbing your fenders? I've found data for
the stock wheel sizes, and if I go to websites that offer wheels and have
fitment guides, it seems like they just use factory specs... Thanks in advance
for any help...
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:53:29 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
Well, if its a hydraulic problem, your master and slave cylinders may
even
be ok. Sounds like one of the lines just popped. I don't even know
where
Lafayette is man. I'm near Seattle in Washington State. If you were
around
here I would even give you a hand, sounds like a real simple stupid
thing.
Ask around here for a local shop to take it to. May want to try the
message
boards on
www.3si.org , lots of
people there, likely someone in your area.
Do not pay more than $70-120 for
labor. Its likely that just a piece of
hydraulic line has to be
replaced.
Don't let people scam you. Best thing you can do is right when you go
in
there, first words out of your mouth should be "I want all of my old
parts
back when you are done". By law they have to give them to you. Some
parts
have a "core charge" but none of these should. If they try to hustle
you
with a "core charge" tell them that you want the part for a few days
and
will bring it back for the core charge later. THEY HAVE TO GIVE IT TO
YOU!
Reason you want to do this is because most shops will replace parts that
do
not need to be replaced. They charge mark-up on parts, make money on
that
and often charge extra labor too. By asking for your old parts back,
you
have the option of testing them later (even if you don't know how) and
then
when they test ok, the shop will be in trouble.
The stock clutch is a POS, but unless you were having problems with
it
before, there is no need to replace it.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robbin Liu
[mailto:rliu6@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 2:02
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
Hey Tyson,
There is a leak in the hydraulic system. The fluid is empty as
you
indicated. I was wondering how much it would cost to get the
hydraulic
system fixed? I am located at Purdue University and that is
in West
Lafayette. Do you know a good place to take it up here?
Well if you can
help again I would be greatly appreciative.
Robbin Liu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 17:02:33 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheel sizing?
Wow, UMR??? I attended there for a couple semesters...
At any rate... 23mm offset is about 20 mm wrong... Our cars
should
have between 38 and 46 mm offsets for most aftermarket wheels...
You pretty much want to use factory specs, or close...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheel sizing?
Well, I'm still stuck w/ some really ugly factory wheels and some
lame
Wal-Mart wheel covers from the previous owner... Still wondering
about
offsets, I found a real nice set of 17"x9"'s, w/ a 23mm offset,
anyone
know if they'll rub on the fenders? Planning on mounting some
265/40's
if that helps... Who's gone to their local wheelshop and done
some
fitting recently? Anyone?
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 15:30:23 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
Anything but. Stock clutch slips and goes up in smoke way too easy.
6-12
hard launches and its done. I got a 4 puck sprung hub on my car now.
Little
too much like a clutch switch... I would recommend more people to go
one
step down. Stage 2-3. Spec and RPS seem to be the better choices. If
you
don't do racing, I am sure your clutch will last you a while. I wore
mine
out in about a year. Over the course of the year I did maybe 9 hard
launches
with it, and it was gone.
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut
[mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 3:17
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
Tyson, I replaced mine with a stock clutch. Which one would you
recommend
next time?
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 18:11:33 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel
sizing?
Yeah, I go to UMR, I wasn't trying to brag though, it's automatically put
into my name. =0) Anywho, on
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/
they have 9" wide wheels w/ a 35mm offset that you can get, but I was
hoping for just a touch more (or less rather) than that. I'd like to bump
the wheels out far enough to where they look sportier (and possibly
increase handling?), but not look skated... Know what I'm
saying?
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
[mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 5:03
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel sizing?
Wow, UMR??? I attended there for a couple semesters...
At any rate... 23mm offset is about 20 mm wrong... Our cars
should
have between 38 and 46 mm offsets for most aftermarket wheels...
You pretty much want to use factory specs, or close...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 17:31:19 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wheel sizing?
+35mm on a 9" wide rim is about the edge of what I would run without
looking
too "skate like" in my opinion. Good news is you'll have plenty of
clearance
to run 275/35/18's on all 4 corners!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 03, 2002 5:11 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel sizing?
Yeah, I go to UMR, I wasn't trying to brag though, it's automatically
put
into my name. =0) Anywho, on
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/
they have 9"
wide wheels w/ a 35mm offset that you can get, but I was hoping
for just a
touch more (or less rather) than that. I'd like to bump the wheels
out far
enough to where they look sportier (and possibly increase handling?),
but
not look skated... Know what I'm saying?
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:09:38 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
fascia treatments?
Not that there's anything wrong w/ the big wide red thing across the back
of my '94 base Stealth, but does anyone know of anything to do to the
center thing to make it look better? It doesn't really do anything, so I
was thinking there was room for improvement... Has anyone done anything
cool to their rear center piece (the one between their
tail-lights)?
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:57:57 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear fascia treatments?
This is of course kinda off-topic, but IIRC, you have a Stealth...
The
'99 rear center panel would prolly work for you, however, not sure
what
it'd look like with the standard turn signals (there are
differences
between the 3000 and the Stealth turn signals - 3 different
styles
even)...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:10 PM
Subject: Team3S:
Rear fascia treatments?
Not that there's anything wrong w/ the big wide red thing across
the
back of my '94 base Stealth, but does anyone know of anything to do
to
the center thing to make it look better? It doesn't really do
anything,
so I was thinking there was room for improvement... Has anyone
done
anything cool to their rear center piece (the one between
their
tail-lights)?
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 21:09:48 -0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear fascia treatments?
On my 91 ES I matched it to the color of my car, along with the
black
surrounds on the pop-ups. I think it looked really sharp!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 6:10 PM
Subject: Team3S:
Rear fascia treatments?
Not that there's anything wrong w/ the big wide red thing across
the
back of my '94 base Stealth, but does anyone know of anything to do
to
the center thing to make it look better? It doesn't really do
anything,
so I was thinking there was room for improvement... Has anyone
done
anything cool to their rear center piece (the one between
their
tail-lights)?
-b
------------------------------
Hi everyone,
Just wanted to know if anyone has a copy of the Computerized
Automatic
Parts Search (CAPS) program? The links on the team3s website seem
to be
down.
------------------------------
Its not down, it was severely abused because a few unfortunate
people
couldn't follow directions. It placed team3s free hosting at
risk.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 00:06:14 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Where's CAPS?
Basically, just follow the directions on the website, they say how to get
them. You have to email the administrators and stuff... I think what you
want to read is in yellow.
-b
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 11:41
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Where's CAPS?
Its not down, it was severely abused because a few unfortunate
people
couldn't follow directions. It placed team3s free hosting at
risk.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:32:43 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Stainless Downpipes
PS: For that price you could buy 2.5 of mine. Wait, didn't I say that
SS
costs 2.5 times more than Alum? Funny coincidence... Seriously if
someone
wants an SS pipe THAT bad, I will make one for much cheaper.
Materials cost
2.5 times more, labor is about the same.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:43:57 -0800
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Where's CAPS?
> Hi everyone,
> Just wanted to know if anyone has a copy of the
Computerized
> Automatic Parts Search (CAPS) program? The links on the
team3s
> website seem to be down.
-
----------------------------------->
The links on the Team3S CAPS Page are not "down" - they have been
moved. And
it says so clearly on the CAPS page. Just like with
most things on our
website - all you have to do is *read* about what's going
on, or (in this
case) how to get the CAPS files. There's a note there
(that's as big as a
barn!) that will help... Please read it.
Forrest (impatiently)
for the Admins
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:50:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Where's CAPS?
Me thinks Bob has had just about enough of us!!
:) Don't ya just
hate having to deal with us bunch of
dopes all the time!!!
Must get irritating after awhile! :)
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:39:42 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
I agree with Tigran. Sounds like your slave cylinder went out on
you,
or perhaps the master. But I wouldn't dig into the clutch just
yet
until I checked the hydraulics.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tigran Varosyan
[mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 4:04
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about 3000GT clutch replacement price
I'm going to take a stab at this since nobody else has yet... I
think
that if your pedal goes down to the floor and nothing happens you
are
likely to just have a hydraulic problem or something much more
simple.
The only thing I can see causing that in the clutch area itself is
a
broken "fork" or throw-out-bearing which both happen but VERY rarely.
I
think you likely popped a hose or a line and that just needs to be
fixed. The
dealer is, as usual, is trying to rape you. Look at the
little diagram under
the hood of where your fluids are. Take off the
cap to the clutch fluid tank
and see if there is any in there. If its
dry or very low your clutch is
ok.
Cylinders can fail with fluid still in the tank, so I would check
those
too, its just its not as easy... Where physically are you
located?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:48:19 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel sizing?
Actually Cody offset needs to be altered as you go to a wider wheel i.e.
an
offset anywhere between 43-38 is more than adequate for a stock width
wheel
(8.5") for a 9 inch wheel you want at least a 38MM offset (35 is my
personal
preference) to decrease the likely hood of rubbing against the front
strut
towers.
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 Still under the knife
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:13:43 US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Wheel sizing?
Stock 18" rims are 18x8.5 with 46mm offset
Do the math for an 18x9
Figure you get 0.25" wider each direction from
center.
Theoretically, if you stay with 46mm offset, the inside edge of your rim
will
be 0.25" closer to the strut - critical especially if you are using or
thinking
of using JIC or TEIN since the spring is "wrapped" on the strut and
has to fit
behind the tire instead of over it as with stock.
If you move to 38 offset you have moved the center of the wheel 8mm farther
outboard - so now you can subtract the 8mm from the 0.25" and the inside
edge
of the rim is now 0.065" (or 1.65mm) farther outboard than stock
(increased
clearance). On the other hand, the outside edge of the rim
is 0.25" + 8mm
farther outboard about 0.565".
Two words of caution:
1) Offset is not the only dimension that determines whether a rim will fit
on
these beasts (TT/AWD, especially larger caliper years - 95 and up I
think).
There is precious little room between the outboard edge of the
rim and caliper
to fit spokes and lip into. A fit check is REQUIRED
prior to any action (like
mounting a tire) that would render the rim
non-returnable. When you do the
fit check - remember to allow room for
the "rim guard bead" which protrudes
beyond the rim itself - inboard and
outboard.
2)You may think you would like the wider look, but you must be cautious
when
moving the center of your wheel inboard or outboard. This is a
critical
dimension in the suspension design and WILL affect handling if
altered without
compensation in other suspension components.
The more you move the more likely adverse affects.
g8rbob
'99VR-4 -
18x9 38mm offset Enkei RPM-2 track wheels (shoulda
got 17's)
> Actually Cody offset needs to be altered as you go to a wider wheel
i.e. an
> offset anywhere between 43-38 is more than adequate for a stock
width wheel
> (8.5") for a 9 inch wheel you want at least a 38MM offset
(35 is my personal
> preference) to decrease the likely hood of rubbing
against the front strut
> towers.
>
> Russ F
> CT
> 93 VR-4 Still under the knife
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 14:59:06 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel sizing?
Let's take some of the mystery out of wheel offset. Imagine two parallel
flat
planes. One goes vertically through the center of the wheel and the
other goes
vertically where the wheel mounts to the "hub" (actually the
"hat" of the disk
rotor). The distance between those two planes is the
offset. If the wheel
mounting surface is outboard of the wheel centerline
(likes ours are) the
offset is positive. If the wheel has that dished-out
appearance (like lots of
hot rods have), the mounting surface is inboard of
the wheel centerline and
the offset is negative.
The offset of *all* 3S stock wheels is 46 mm. That includes all models and
all
years, even the spare. If you want to maintain the stock clearance
between
wheel/tire and car body/suspension parts, then you need to decrease
the offset
an amount equal to one-half the change in wheel width. This moves
the wheel
centerline farther outboard. For example, if going to a 9" wheel
from a 8.5"
wheel, the offset would decrease 0.25" or 6.35 mm (or from 46 mm
to 39-40 mm).
If going to a 10"-wide wheel, offset would decrease by 0.5" or
12.7 mm (from
46 mm to 33-34 mm). If your setup can tolerate less-than-stock
clearance then
the wheel offset doesn't need to change as much. Obviously,
front and rear
track increase when offset decreases and wheel width
increases.
Tire width makes only a small difference because most low-profile tires
that
will mount safely to a wheel will have similar mounted widths. My
Pirelli
265/35-18 tires (nominally 10.43") are only slightly wider than my
9"-wide SSR
wheel - about 10" or so mounted. Note that the "9-inch"
specification of the
wheel does not refer to the widest part of the wheel.
Also, wheel diameter
(17" or 19") makes almost no difference because overall
tire diameter will be
similar to stock. Again, the "18-inch" specification
is not the largest
diameter of the wheel. My SSR GT1 wheels show ~19" across
the outer edge. If
the mounted tire width or overall diameter is
significantly different than
stock, these would have to figure into the
clearance issue as far as
determining the offset.
Maybe another member (one of our racers?) can explain how moving the wheels
outboard affects handling, steering, and suspension issues.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:19:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS
EVC IV and V
I recently purchased an EVC IV... not yet installed.
I have seen a few
reports on the EVC V.
Has anyone on this list had experience with the V?
Thanks,
Roger L
F15DOC
"stay on target" :)
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#16
**************************************