Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Tuesday, December 3 2002   Volume 02 : Number 015
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 09:23:26 -0500
From: "stealth@quixnet.net" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Firestone Firehawk SZ50 any good?
 
Yes, I recommend the SZ50's.  I have had two flavors of Goodyear and BFG Comp T/A VR4 tires, and  the SZ50's are the best I've had.  Also, I upsized from the 225/55VR16 to 245/50ZR16, and the  wider tire has made a significant difference in "stickiness".
 
As for your brand name fears, don't worry: our cars weren't designed by Ford, so the Firestones  will be perfectly safe...
 
Finally, you mention that you're only replacing the rear tires.  If there's any way you can afford  it, please replace all four tires at the same time.
I've found that a mix-n-match tire set up is rather unstable and unpredictable.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
 
Original Message:
 
- -----------------
From: A. Kryjevski abk4@u.washington.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 22:35:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Team3S: Firestone Firehawk SZ50 any good?
 
Hello:
 
I am considering replacing rear tires on my 92 R/T (f.w.d.). From what Tirerack.com survey says  Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP appears to be the best (traction, wear, even noise and ride comfort).  Does anybody have any experience with these? The archive search gave one positive opinion, but  would like to hear more, for the Firestone brandname scares me somewhat...
 
Currently I have Goodyear Eagle GS-C on the front and (worn) Falken Ziex-502 on the rear (all  275/40 17). Can anybody compare these with Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP?
 
Finally, does anybody ever care how much different tires weigh? Does it have any tangible  influence on the performance?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 06:28:00 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GL-4 and GL-5 frustration
 
There is a difference and it is explained quite well on red lines website.
 
4k probably has caused no harm. Change to red line as soon as possible.
 
Andy
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 6:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: GL-4 and GL-5 frustration
 

| I recently changed the transmission and transfer case oil with a GL-5
| gear oil. According to Jeff L's site and some 3SI posts, this was the
| wrong thing to do. I've asked mitsu and dodge dealers--both said
| GL-5 is "GL-4 compatible"   One import wholesale shop manager
| laughed in my face when I asked him to special order some
| GL-4 and said he's not sure if he even wants to deal with me if
| I think there's a difference. I definitely don't
| "know everything", but I realize now that it's hard to find people
| that know about our cars (at least locally). It's interesting
| that they can be so confident when they're wrong. Now that I'm
| done complaining, I've driven the car for about 400 miles since
| I changed to the wrong fluid. Any chance of damage in
| this short period? Should I change the fluid to Redline first thing
| Monday when the performance shop opens? Or should I do it when it's
| convenient?
|
| Riyan
| 93 stealth rt tt
|
| frustrated and a tad wiser
| writing e-mails while GL-5 rusts his tranny
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:04:19 -0800 (PST)
From: BRANDY BLASOR <brandyblasor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: ECS Struts
 
My 92 RT needs new front struts.  I've been reading
some recent posts and I'm just a little confused.  If
I come off like I don't know what I'm talking about, I
don't, feel free to correct me.  I have the ECS option
on my car.  From what I have been explained, the ECS
button lowers the car a little or something?  Um, what
I am needing to know is where to find the ECS struts.
I checked out the https://www.trademotion.com/, and it
is for Mitsu parts, will these fit my car?  Or is it
possible to put regular struts on here and maybe those
springs that lower your car?  Like I said I'm not too
sure of what I'm talking about, I'm just trying to
figure out the best and most economical way of going
about this.  Thanks
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 10:43:56 -0600
From: "Danny Swanson" <dizzydan_02@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: problems with my 91 ES
 
I have had problems with my 91 ES ever since I bought it.  There is
something wrong with the motor now, but I'm not sure what it is.  Hopefully
someone out there can help.  Ok I put the car in park and step on the gas
and for some reason the rpms only go up to 2,000 if you try to step on it
more then the rpms drop down to 600 automatically while my foot is still on
the gas.  I think I'm losing compression, but I'm not really sure.  Any help
with this situation would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Danny
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:59:39 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: problems with my 91 ES
 
Are your cats clogged?
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Danny Swanson [mailto:dizzydan_02@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 11:44 AM
Subject: Team3S: problems with my 91 ES
 
I have had problems with my 91 ES ever since I bought it.  There is
something wrong with the motor now, but I'm not sure what it is. Hopefully
someone out there can help.  Ok I put the car in park and step on the gas
and for some reason the rpms only go up to 2,000 if you try to step on it
more then the rpms drop down to 600 automatically while my foot is still on
the gas.  I think I'm losing compression, but I'm not really sure.  Any help
with this situation would be appreciated.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 09:32:19 -0800
From: "eK2mfg" <eK2mfg@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: FS - EGR block off plates 25.00 shipped to the US
 
I have a few of these sitting around. Need to clear them out! If you have been wanting to do this  mod but wanted to save a few dollars for the holidays I will be offering them for 25.00 shipped.  If you live outside the US then the actual shipping will added to the price.
 
This was a product I made and wont be doing anymore given I don't have a turbo model and this was  for a request on 3si.org. 3/8" thick aluminum and perfect gasket match for pattern. Not one  complaint with the sets already sold except that they look so good and you wont see them. :)
 
If you have an NA don't bother, and the discussions of this mod with the check engine light versus  the cleaner air running is more than welcome. Like I said I don't have a turbo. I have about 12  sets left! Email me privately and PayPal is the preferred method of payment to ek2mfg@attbi.com.
 
thanks!
Bobk.
93R/T w/99 conversion....no it's not a hydroplane! it's actually a Mitsubishi part number!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:10:17 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Firestone Firehawk SZ50 any good?
 
Had two sets of them so far - one set of SZ50s on my old NA and one set of SZ50EPs for track tires  on my VR-4.  Love them.  Grrrrr... don't make them in 18s.  Out of 16" Goodyear Eagle RS-As (LOUD,  but ok on my NA), 18" Toyo Proxes FZ4 (HARD, not sticky, couldn't wait to get rid of them), and  18" Nitto 555 Extreme (nice ride, fairly sticky, but could use a bit more stick), the Firehawks  have been the best I've owned.
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 11:32:49 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Firestone Firehawk SZ50 any good?
 
At 11:10 AM 12/2/02 , you wrote:
>Had two sets of them so far - one set of SZ50s on my old NA and one set
>of SZ50EPs for track tires on my VR-4.  Love them.  Grrrrr... don't
>make them in 18s.  Out of 16" Goodyear Eagle RS-As (LOUD, but ok on my
>NA), 18" Toyo Proxes FZ4 (HARD, not sticky, couldn't wait to get rid of
>them), and 18" Nitto 555 Extreme (nice ride, fairly sticky, but could
>use a bit more stick), the Firehawks have been the best I've owned.
 
I agree with Erik as to the Firehawks. I've had SZ50EPs on my '91 VR4 for 8
track sessions and love them. However, they take a little getting used to
when they are new. I had to run with a bit lower pressures when they were
fresh. They felt like skates on ice with 40 psi for the fronts and 37 psi
for the rears. I settled on maintaining 38 psi fronts and 34 psi rears,
dropping the pressure after each session after they had warmed up.
 
I drove one day with the track wet from fog (probably worse conditions than
rain). I was probably the fastest car until the track dried off.
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 14:11:42 -0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil pressure switch
 
I am replacing my center gauges with Apex El gauges and one of them will be the Oil pressure  gauge. I was wondering if I need to replace the oil pressure gauge unit or the oil pressure switch  to get this thing to work. 
 
Thanks,
 
Francis
'96 RT/TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:24:02 -0800
From: "MM3 Phillips, J" <phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil>
Subject: Team3S: Car Storage
 
I'm in the Navy and I'm getting ready to leave on a 6 month deployment.  My 91 VR4 will be in  storage for 6 months.  What do I need to do to be sure that when I get back, it will still run  great?  Do I need a full tank of Gas, no gas, full radiator, new oil,... What?
 
- -Ryan Phillips
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 13:15:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Car Storage
 
Ryan,
Thanks for serving.
Is there someone that can start it up and drive it
every few weeks while you are gone?
That is the best option if you can do it.
Just a few miles of easy driving every few weeks is
the best thing for "stored" cars.
Roger L
F15DOC
 
- --- "MM3 Phillips, J" <phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil>
wrote:
> I'm in the Navy and I'm getting ready to leave on a
> 6 month deployment.  My 91 VR4 will be in storage
> for 6 months.  What do I need to do to be sure
> that when I get back, it will still run great?  Do I
> need a full tank of gas, no gas, full radiator,
> new oil,... What?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 16:57:00 -0500
From: "stealth@quixnet.net" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
I'll ditto the "Thanks for serving".
 
I assume it'll be stored in a garage, but you don't indicate if it's going to be climate  controlled or not.  I'd recommend putting an open container of charcoal briquettes on the back seat.   This will help control any humidity or moisture problems with the interior.
 
I used the lid of a box that copier paper comes in for the container, it worked great.  (I also  accidentally dropped a jar of coffee beans into the lid, so the car smelled like fresh roasted for  a few months.  The beans also swelled up over the winter, so they apparently helped absorbed  moisture, too.)
 
As for the rest of the work, I found this web site that might help:  http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/classic_car_layup.htm
 
Hope this helps.
 
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
 
Original Message:
- -----------------
From: MM3 Phillips, J phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:24:02 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Car Storage
 
I'm in the Navy and I'm getting ready to leave on a 6 month deployment.  My 91 VR4 will be in  storage for 6 months.  What do I need to do to be sure that when I get back, it will still run  great?  Do I need a full tank of Gas, no gas, full radiator, new oil,... What?
 
- -Ryan Phillips
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 14:02:39 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
As long as we're on this subject, are there any dehumidifier products that perform a similar  function for a daily driven car?  Here in the NW, just getting in and out of the car in the rain  gets things pretty damp inside.  I think I remember seeing something once that looked like a bag  of lava rocks.  Anybody know what I'm talking about?
 
> to be climate controlled or not.  I'd recommend putting an
> open container
> of charcoal briquettes on the back seat.  This will help
> control any humidity
> or moisture problems with the interior.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 14:44:38 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
I read over that website, lots of good points I would have never thought
about, like jacking the car up... One thing left out that is important is
that you want to have as little gas in it as possible. Especially in winter,
with all the extra junk they put in gas....
 
There is stuff added to gasoline now that will make it "go bad". I heard
from a classic car collector that he had gasoline get semi-solid in his tank
and fuel lines after not moving the car for a year. My buddy also has a
truck with 2 gas tanks, in winter he keeps the rear one full at all times
for more traction. He had a similar problem with the gas turning lumpy after
the winter in that tank.
 
My suggestion is to leave as little gas as you can in the car. When you get
back, make your first priority to go to the gas station and add some STP or
something with the new tank of gas.
 
Rubber seals and stuff everywhere will dry out... My BOV started "honking"
(leaking) and I got a rear turbo seal leak after my car was stored for 4
months. If you can get someone to go drive it around, that is the absolute
best.
 
Tyson
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 23:42:32 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
> I read over that website, lots of good points I
> would have never thought about, like jacking
> the car up... One thing left out that is important
> is that you want to have as little gas in it as
> possible. Especially in winter, with all the
> extra junk they put in gas....
 
Actually you are better off filling the tank and using a product such as Sta-
Bil (in my opinion).
 
I've used it in my snowmobiles, snowthrowers, lawnmowers, cars, and anything
else I have with gas in it and have never had any storage problems with
anything related to gas (like gummed up carbs or whatever).  Take it out of
storage, fire it up and go.  No problem...
 
Just mix it into the fuel as directed and run the motor long enough to draw
the treated fuel through the whole fuel system (pretty quick on these cars
with the flow-through fuel regulator, especially if you've hotwired your fuel
pump).
 
http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 20:32:08 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Firestone Firehawk SZ50 any good?
 
A. Kryjevski wrote:
 
>I am considering replacing rear tires on my 92 R/T (f.w.d.). From what
>Tirerack.com survey says Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP appears to be the best
>(traction, wear, even noise and ride comfort). Does anybody have any
>experience with these? The archive search gave one positive opinion, but
>would like to hear more, for the Firestone brandname scares me somewhat...
>
>Currently I have Goodyear Eagle GS-C on the front and (worn) Falken Ziex-502
>on the rear (all 275/40 17). Can anybody compare these with
>Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP?
>
>Finally, does anybody ever care how much different tires weigh? Does it have
>any tangible influence on the performance?
 
Have had Eagle F1's and currently gForce-KD's.  Good luck with both.
 KDs stick like glue in the dry .......... like grease in the wet.  Both
wear fairly well (surprising for the KDs).  My son had the Yokohoma'
high end on his 94 VR4 ......... not a good street tire ....... wore
like a gum eraser.  If you live in the rain or snow and drive all the
time ....... I'd recommend the gForce KDW's or KDWS's.  Michelin has
made (is) BFGs for almost 10 years now.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 18:56:51 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
Huh! Didn't know they made that stuff. Is it made for this purpose? Thanks for
the info, I will do that from now on.
 
Tyson
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 3:43 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
> I read over that website, lots of good points I
> would have never thought about, like jacking
> the car up... One thing left out that is important
> is that you want to have as little gas in it as
> possible. Especially in winter, with all the
> extra junk they put in gas....
 
Actually you are better off filling the tank and using a product such as
Sta-Bil (in my opinion).
 
I've used it in my snowmobiles, snowthrowers, lawnmowers, cars, and anything
else I have with gas in it and have never had any storage problems with
anything related to gas (like gummed up carbs or whatever).  Take it out of
storage, fire it up and go.  No problem...
 
Just mix it into the fuel as directed and run the motor long enough to draw
the treated fuel through the whole fuel system (pretty quick on these cars
with the flow-through fuel regulator, especially if you've hotwired your
fuel pump).
 
http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 20:17:46 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: follow-up: my stealth is DONE :(
 
one last thing: I'm actively looking for individuals who are knowledgeable
with the "law of the automotive industry" as well as an attorney that can
give me some initial advice, if not more.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 20:01:21 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: my stealth is DONE :(
 
and in a very bad way.
 
Remember the alignment shop that balanced the tires using the "on car"
method? Two-wheels on the ground... Well, I took the car to the dealer
today. They put it up on a lift and heard MANY noises from MANY places.
Since the viscous coupling locked, the transmission and transfer case are
both ruined. We are sure it's the alignment shop's fault since that is a new
tranny+transfer case with low miles on them both. It's going to be at least
$6,000 to fix that stuff.
 
Then, when I hit the mountain it looks like I caused damage to the rear axle
shaft/differential assembly (this explains the MASSIVE amount of shavings
and the rubbing/clunking noise). On top of that, the clutch+flywheel need to
be replaced. The total for all this stuff: another $6,000+.
 
The grand total: $12,000+
 
Well, I suppose that the good side is I can collect $6,000+ from the
alignment shop. Some people have told me that I should collect even more for
"endangerment of life" since IF the tranny had locked up before I got to the
dealer then I'd be in a 4-wheel skid and either die or get badly injured.
But if they remain stubborn then it could be a long trip of paperwork and
perhaps even legal action to get them to pay up. This also means... no more
Twin Turbo beauty for quite awhile. Don't worry, while I don't have my
car...I won't forget all of you. I'll still be in touch and answering all
the posts I can...while I drive a van around. :(
 
I have a *general* idea on how to handle this mess from here, but if anyone
has specific some tips and ideas going forward then please e-mail me. Again,
if the help regarding this topic lacks technical info, please e-mail me
privately.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
bad tranny
bad xfer case
bad rear differential
bad clutch
bad flywheel
marginal driveshaft
 
lots of nice performance mods though!
 
.... PS.... the car still drove to the dealer. And it drove just fine,
besides all the noises!!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 22:08:30 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Port matching
 
I'm looking to port match a few components --- head to manifold, turbo to
precat eliminator etc. --- any tips on marking the surfaces to be matched.
Once mated the openings are no longer visible so there's no way to mark
the two mating surfaces --- comments anyone.
 
        Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 00:15:26 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Port matching
 
You mate them to the gasket size.  use mechanics ink, or a sharpie.
 
On Mon, 2 Dec 2002, fastmax wrote:
 
> I'm looking to port match a few components --- head to manifold, turbo to
> precat eliminator etc. --- any tips on marking the surfaces to be matched.
> Once mated the openings are no longer visible so there's no way to mark
> the two mating surfaces --- comments anyone.
>
>         Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 22:22:09 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: follow-up: my stealth is DONE :(
 
Depending on where you live check what the limits are on "Small Claims"
court. Around here it used to be $10k. No lawyers allowed. You take them to
court, serve them papers (hardest part) and explain to the judge what
happened. Then bring in written sworn statements from dealer mechanics and
you are done. Strongly suggest you go to small claims and sit as an observer
a week or so before the trial. Try to find out whom your judge will be and
go to his/her cases to see what they like and don't like. One major downside
is that it will be about 6mo from the time you file to the time you get to
have your case heard...
 
Good luck. That sucks man, I know your pain, I'm driving a van too now with
my baby at home with 24 bent/broken valves.
 
Tyson
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 8:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: follow-up: my stealth is DONE :(
 
one last thing: I'm actively looking for individuals who are knowledgeable
with the "law of the automotive industry" as well as an attorney that can
give me some initial advice, if not more.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 05:56:33 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: Looking for Brad Bedell
 
Can anyone tell me Brad's email address and/or webpage?  This is all I
have and some of the picture links are dead as well as the email address
which bounces back "user unknown."  Please reply privately unless it
would behoove the rest of the list to know of his whereabouts.
 
http://www.mr2.com/OWNERS/BradBedell.html
 
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
 
http://66.70.233.231/readersrides2.shtml
 
- --Flash!
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds from Brad Bedell
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 08:30:46 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
Fill the tank, put in fuel stabilizer, run the engine for about 5
minutes to make sure the fuel stabilizer circulates through the fuel
system, park it, change the oil, after you changed the oil crank the
engine with the ignition fuse removed so it doesn't start (just to get
the oil through the system);  remove the battery and place it on an
automatic trickle charger, top off all your fluids, wash it and then
cover it.  That's what I've done for 8 years now, and my car has never
missed a beat!
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: MM3 Phillips, J [mailto:phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil]
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: Car Storage
 

I'm in the Navy and I'm getting ready to leave on a 6 month deployment.
My 91 VR4 will be in storage for 6 months.  What do I need to do to be sure
that when I get back, it will still run great?  Do I need a full tank of
Gas, no gas, full radiator, new oil,... What?
 
- -Ryan Phillips
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 08:49:19 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
I respectfully disagree with Tigran here.  I think you want a full tank,
and add fuel stabilizer.  Having a nearly empty tank allows more room in
the tank for moisture, which can accelerate the process of the gasoline
breaking down (which is the process Tigran describes that his friends
experienced), and which may cause you problems when you go to start up
your car next year.  The stabilizer will prevent the gasoline from
breaking down and "going bad."  I generally store my car every year from
October/November through May/June, and for the last 8 years, have ALWAYS
stored it with a full tank.  I do the same think with my motorcycle, and
have never had a problem.  The fuel stabilizer I use is Stabil, the red
stuff.
 
Oh, and by the way, Ryan, the world thanks you for your service.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tigran Varosyan [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Storage
 
<<<One thing left out that is important is that you want to have as
little gas in it as possible. Especially in winter,
with all the extra junk they put in gas....>>>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 07:25:43 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Port matching
 
That will work in some cases but often the gasket is as much as 1/8" bigger
than the ports so you just have a wide spot in the flow --- not a good thing.
For the most part the book sez don't gasket match unless you can do the
whole  runner.
 
        Jim Berry
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- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
 
> You mate them to the gasket size.  use mechanics ink, or a sharpie.
>
> On Mon, 2 Dec 2002, fastmax wrote:
>
> > I'm looking to port match a few components --- head to manifold, turbo to
> > precat eliminator etc. --- any tips on marking the surfaces to be matched.
> > Once mated the openings are no longer visible so there's no way to mark
> > the two mating surfaces --- comments anyone.
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #15
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