Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, December 1
2002 Volume 02 : Number 013
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello all,
Just wanted to thank all those who helped me looking for that magnetic
pickup coil I was looking for. I just found out the problem in my car was
not the distributor, but the ECU (engine control unit/computer). The
starting problem is usually diagnosed as a faulty distributor though. So I
was wondering if anyone knows a good place I can find one for my SOHC
Dodge Stealth '92. Also if anyone knows a good place where I might get it
repaired would also be nice.
Thanks Again
Marven
'92 Dodge Stealth SOHC
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 00:19:44 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For sale: Wheels & Tires
Set of four CCW custom 3pc racing wheels.
17x10 for all 4 corners.
275/45 KumhoV700s mounted. One set 20% good, other set 70%
good.
Stock offset, it will widen your track about 1/4"
VERY light scrape on one wheel, but other than that great shape.
AS A SET ONLY: $1200, you pay shipping.
New?? You'd pay $2,000 w/o tires or shipping.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 22:32:52 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: removing a stillen downpipe
*WARNING* This is an official and shameless "plug" on my part....
Erik after his BFH days with the Stillen downpipe has helped me design the
Ty-Speed Type-1 "EG" downpipe which works much better, has provided better
spool times than the Stillen AND FITS!! For more info please see
/www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/DPipeEng/page1.html and/or
/www.tyspeedperformance.com
Thanks,
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Sent: Friday, November
29, 2002 12:06 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing a stillen downpipe
> Just how do you do it? I got under the car today and I have no clue
> how to reach the flange nuts with that little amount of
clearance.
I've always been able to get the connections to the O2 housings off with
(all 1/2" drive) a 19mm mid-length 6pt socket, a U-joint, a 9" extension,
and a breaker bar or socket wrench. The U-joint is key for the
passenger's side rear bank nut. The others can be done with just an
extension. For the rear connection to the cat-back, all you
need is a wrench or two of whatever size bolts they stuck on there (stock
bolts cannot be reused there with the Stillen). Of course, getting
the nuts off is probably only 20% of the fun. Yours is a 1G, so it
may be easier (I hope!) But on my 2Gs, I had to wrap my arms and
legs around the downpipe and hang like a monkey to get the @#$% thing
off. Sorry, no pictures :-) It took 30 minutes of hanging, rocking,
prying, beating, and swearing to get it off. The price you pay for
using a BFH to install it :-)
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 09:25:45 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: removing a stillen downpipe
Tyson
And what quality is it ... aluminized ? Weight over the stillen or
ATR ? ... and of course you have proven performance charts, do you ?
We all are interested in good new products !
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Sent: Saturday,
November 30, 2002 7:32 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing a stillen
downpipe
> *WARNING* This is an official and shameless "plug" on my
part....
>
> Erik after his BFH days with the Stillen downpipe has
helped me design
> the Ty-Speed Type-1 "EG" downpipe which works much
better, has
> provided better spool times than the Stillen AND FITS!! For
more info
> please see /www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/DPipeEng/page1.html
and/or
> /www.tyspeedperformance.com
------------------------------
Thanks to everyone who offered help.
I F8ed into Safe Mode, applied the
default settings, booted back up, then set the settings properly, and it
seems to be working.
Sorry I took up the List's time with such trivialities, but now I am back
working again for the rest of the weekend so I can take a day off next
week and (here comes the ON TOPIC) install my GABs and get my rear wheel
bearings fixed.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 10:05:59 -0600
From: "Mark and Brenda" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear clunking sound
Hi gang! Has anyone dealt with the clunking sound you hear around the rear
of the car, I can slightly push up and down and it will make the sound, or
when pulling out of my drive or driving real slow. It also alternates from
right to left. I replaced the sway bar links thinking it was them, but it
wasn't. I'm now thinking it may be some slightly worn bushings of some type.
Fat bikers web sight described the sound like bowling pins wrapped up in a
blanket bouncing around, but he didn't know what it was and the dealer
said not to worry. I myself would like to pinpoint the noise and get rid
of it, but it's hard to do unless I was under the car with a stethoscope
while someone was driving it. Well I hope I made sense in this post, kind
of a strange problem even to describe, but I know I can't be the only one
with
it. Please help... TIA. Mark. 92 Stealth NA.
------------------------------
Had the same problem. In my case, it's motor mounts and rear wheel
bearings. If the drivetrain can move around at all, it propagates the
least little sound. Put it up on a rack or jack stands with all four
wheels off the ground, have someone accelerate/brake, and you'll hear it.
Rich
At 10:05 AM 11/30/02 -0600, Mark and Brenda wrote:
>Hi gang! Has
anyone dealt with the clunking sound you hear around the
>rear of the
car, I can slightly push up and down and it will make the
>sound, or when
pulling out of my drive or driving real slow. It also
>alternates from
right to left.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 12:47:48 -0500
From: "Rodriguez,
Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: What's this light?
I guess I'll continue the trivialities so help me out here. I can't find my
owner's manual so can someone please tell me what this light on the
dashboard means? It comes on right next to the 160mph mark on the speedo. See
the drawing of it on the link below. It used to come on every once in a blue
moon so I never paid any attention to it but now it stays on all the time. It
started doing a couple of days ago so I've tried driving the car as little as
possible in case it's something serious. I've checked the oil, power
steering, and brake fluids and they're all ok so ain't any of that.
Thanks.
- -E.RDZ
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 18:20:47 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: What's this light?
Windshield washer fluid.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 15:13:31 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
What's this light?
Remember - there's a rear reservoir too - if it's not the front, it could
be the rear.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 15:45:04 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Struts, options
My experience as well ......... about $125 per corner for the ECS
struts. I have the Teins now, but if some one wanted good OEM
replacements ....... there has to be a lot out there that will improve
handling with minimal impact on ride.
Dennis -==- Philly
Andre Cerri wrote:
>The cut throat dealers do the stock struts for $126 or so per
corner.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 16:06:30 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear clunking sound
Unbelievable! Same sound (I think). Rear........ primarily with
vertical motions of the rear suspension ........ quiet knocking as if
something is loose. About ready to take it to a dealer that can put it
on a hoist and exercise the suspension. Probably the only way to
tell.
Dennis -==- Philly
Mark and Brenda wrote:
>Hi gang! Has anyone dealt with the clunking sound you hear around the
>rear of the car, I can slightly push up and down and it will make the
>sound, or when pulling out of my drive or driving real slow. It also
>alternates from right to left. I replaced the sway bar links thinking
>it was them, but it wasn't. I'm now thinking it may be some slightly
>worn bushings of some type. Fat bikers web sight described the sound
>like bowling pins wrapped up in a blanket bouncing around, but he didn't
>know what it was and the dealer said not to worry. I myself would like
>to pinpoint the noise and get rid of it, but it's hard to do unless I
>was under the car with a stethoscope while someone was driving it.
>Well I hope I made sense in this post, kind of a strange problem even to
describe, but I know I can't be the only one with
>it. Please
help... TIA. Mark. 92 Stealth NA.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 16:08:56 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear clunking sound
Thanks, Rich ........... but like the thought of bearings already!
Dennis -==- Philly
>Had the same problem. In my case, it's motor mounts and rear wheel
>bearings. If the drivetrain can move around at all, it propagates the
least little sound. Put it up on a rack or jack stands with all four
wheels off the ground, have someone accelerate/brake, and you'll hear
it.
>
>Rich
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 16:25:50 -0500
From: "Rodriguez,
Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Was What's this light? Now rear bearings
thanks fellas, I never even thought about the washer fluid since I have
never used it before. I filled it up with some of that blue washer stuff
and it's good to go now. for a moment I thought satan was going top ruin
christmas by taking all my money, lol. on a different note, how much can I
expect to pay (parts and labor) to change the rear wheel bearings? Anyone in in
the NY area know of a good shop that will do it for a reasonable
price?
- -E.RDZ
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:alex@kolosy.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 3:14
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: What's this light?
Remember - there's a rear reservoir too - if it's not the front, it could
be the rear.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 15:40:56 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: removing a stillen downpipe
Pipe is Aluminized, which has a 95% lifespan of Stainless, is lighter and
more durable. You will not find any real race car with stainless exhaust.
Just look at any nascar website, they are all aluminized or plain steel
because they would crack stainless pipes.
We put the pipes on the scales once... I remember it was MUCH lighter than
stock but I don't remember where it lined up with the Stillen. I think my
pipe was a few lb lighter but consider that I also 2 additional flanges
and a flex section that the Stillen did not.
Performance results on Erik's car were clear without a chart. Read his
website, he had to re-adjust his Boost controller because the turbos were
spooling much faster with my pipe and spiking past his set limit :)
As of right now I do not have comparison charts mainly due to the fact that
my stock exhaust was tossed in the trash 6 months before I started doing
these. So I have nothing real to compare to. My True-dual setup accounted
for a gain of 48 WHP over stock with gutted cats. When I get my car
running again I will test true-dual vs one of my DP's and a single shot
cat-back.
That's that for right now...
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Saturday,
November 30, 2002 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing a stillen
downpipe
Tyson
And what quality is it ... aluminized ? Weight over the stillen or
ATR ? ... and of course you have proven performance charts, do you ?
We all are interested in good new products !
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 18:39:57 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: '94 base
bumper to RT bumper (was: bumper interchange/compatibility)
On a similar note, does anyone know about converting a rear '94 base bumper
and tail-lights to those of an RT? My base bumper is all cracked and stuff
because of a previous owner and OH do I LOVE those RT bumpers and
tail-lights! Thanks for any help.
-b
-----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Tue 11/26/2002 7:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: bumper
interchange/compatibility
Now that I ruined my rear bumper,
I'd like to take this opportunity to put a
standard stealth R/T bumper
rather than the TT bumper. I only want one
exhaust cutout since I have
switched to the singleshot catback system. I
probably don't need to
bother asking since the body styling looks identical,
but if anyone can
confirm that this basic interchange works, then that would
be
great.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
mountain pass
mod...
so I might as well
kill two birds w/one stone :)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 17:42:03 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: AZ weekly car show. OFF TOPIC?
Just thought I'd tell people about the weekly car show held every Saturday
night in Scottsdale, Arizona. It happens to be the largest weekly
show in the nation with most nights bringing around 500+ cars, and
sometimes more than 1,000. I try to make it out there every other weekend,
and have only seen 1 stealth TT. Only 1 in the 8 or so years I've
known about the show. It's free to just drive up and find a good spot if
your car is show worthy. The aisles are sectioned off in groups, so like
don't park by the motorcycles or the cars from the 40s. The older people
with the real old cars usually show up around 3-4pm, and then it's first
come first serve on the spots but there's usually room with people coming
and going all night till around 9pm.
I would love to see some 3Ss out there and maybe we could get 1 week a
month as a club night and park all in a row. I would really like to
see the yellow vr4 with the 2 black racing stripes out there, maybe you're
a list member?
If this sounds of interest to you and you're in the greater phoenix
metropolitan area email me off list and we can maybe meet up at the show
somewhere. I'll be out there tonight at around 7pm.
It's located at the "Pavillions" in scottsdale, just west of Indian Bend
road and the 101 freeway. Here is the mapquest map, it's located in
the north part of the red section on this map you can't miss it.
http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?size=big&mapdata=jZ2g%2b%2fXW8V%2bv9mXNaLJ3cmJ3lmtktHqYI9phsa9PdgCUHqzN3HVHjb6Mn0wgdN7fBd3o08juF991jbtmqaOqDPqeF%2f
BNhDI%2bpH7zAPlpkJpSJA652p5ugObv1G%2bFn2ky1mqnETQqv4My6wC7%2fOXVJmW0R4KVZzBX
tLJ3AU%2bPi10nwhNFZAF9CyR4URz5FikbN8tIUXdFkKJ2f3OXPnWd2%2fV%2bUAJRCzMMH7KJQi
Y8NJ5R0W5qYtFF7c%2fa2DhiCD%2fcYThO5S7iBZk3RY%2b%2b7Ber8QC63ZvVg27ZjZhqfzu6fM
wSafUJWr2QzEiFFMZJ41peKu9jeTlhtjvfD1ZbYaWjR9cogm601PvwZcfe4dEn%2bYtjqeP45L8Y
8C5%2b9ewTSBXxO2iAQ43dgnZboJQablVzwj390tiHKpZb
- -Erik
'91 Stealth (not yet show-worthy....but getting there!)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 18:48:27 -0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: 94 base
front bumper to '99 front bumper (was: '99 Front end conversion)
Yeah, me again. As luck would have it, the previous owner ALSO f'ed up the
front bumper too... It was repainted, but it was QUITE the bang-up job...
I was wondering if the only difference in the '99 3KGT and the '94-'98's
was the corners, then what about the '94 Stealths? (Sorry I forgot to
mention the Stealth part in the last one, it was implied) The '99 headlights
look almost the same size as our Stealth projector headlights, perhaps the
Stealth headlights could accept a '99 front bumper?
-b
-----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Tue 11/26/2002 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: '99 Front end conversion
>
The 99 uses different headlights, and they are the
> most expensive
part, list is nearly $800 each...
> The existing headlights and
sidelights do not fit the
> 99 bumper, but the 2nd gen hood is the
same.
The '94-98 headlights will work with the '99 front
bumper - only the corner
marker lights are different. I've seen
it done, and plan on doing it that way
if I replace the front on my
car. The $1600 for headlights only gets you the
bulgy projector
circles on the front lens and the black background color -
nothing
more.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 17:20:32 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <
nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: removing a stillen downpipe
With all due respect Tigran there is no way that Aluminized steel has 95%
the lifespan of stainless. (Of course possibly in a vacuum with no heat
and no moisture but that would be the only case.) And as far as weight, if
the pipe is the same size and thickness, flanges same size etc.. there
might be 2 lbs maximum difference. I've been dealing with metals in various
shapes, grades and forms for over 25 years, and your statements are just
not factual. Aluminized steel, such as you are referring to, is simply
carbon steel that has been aluminum coated. (In much the same way that
galvanized is coated with zinc) Underneath it is still just carbon steel and the
combination of heat and moisture has an adverse effect on this product,
that effect is corrosion, more commonly referred to as rust. Stainless
steel is also affected by heat and moisture, however the temperatures
generated by an internal combustion engine are simply not high enough to have
an adverse effect on it. Why do you think that almost all new cars are
made with SS exhaust systems? Because the manufacturers like to give money
away? Most new cars carry 5 year warranties, but if you made the exhaust
system from aluminized steel, chances are it would be replaced at least
once in those five years, and with the grade of stainless that these
manufacturers use (T409) it is only slightly higher cost. So why don't
Stillen and others use T409, the auto manufacturers use almost all of the
T409 SS that is produced.
I have spent a good deal of my life finding metal solutions for customers,
taking corrosion engineering and metallurgy classes along the way, if
you'd like to discuss this more I'd welcome your questions and comments,
just remember though that when you are dealing with technical subjects it
is good to do your research before making false statements.
Regards,
Shawn Keren
Drunken Bear Auto Accessories.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Sent: Saturday,
November 30, 2002 3:40 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing a stillen
downpipe
> Pipe is Aluminized, which has a 95% lifespan of Stainless, is lighter
> and more durable. You will not find any real race car with stainless
> exhaust. Just look at any nascar website, they are all aluminized or
> plain steel because they would crack stainless pipes.
>
>
We put the pipes on the scales once... I remember it was MUCH lighter
>
than stock but I don't remember where it lined up with the Stillen. I
>
think my pipe was a few lb lighter but consider that I also 2
>
additional flanges
and
> a flex section that the Stillen did
not.
>
> Performance results on Erik's car were clear without a
chart. Read his
> website, he had to re-adjust his Boost controller
because the turbos
> were spooling much faster with my pipe and spiking
past his set limit
> :)
>
> As of right now I do not have
comparison charts mainly due to the fact
that
> my stock exhaust was
tossed in the trash 6 months before I started
> doing these. So I have
nothing real to compare to. My True-dual setup
> accounted for a gain of
48 WHP over stock with gutted cats. When I get
> my
car
running
> again I will test true-dual vs one of my DP's and a
single shot
> cat-back.
>
> That's that for right
now...
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 20:15:41 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
More NG'02 videos!
First, thanks everybody for completing my online surveys. You guys are the
greatest!
I converted some more videos, including videos of Dave Trent and Chuck
Willis riding with me and giving some driving tips. I was going to record
driving behind Chuck but the tape ran out, sorry. That would have been an
extremely valuable footage. Next time, I promise ...
Philip
'95 R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 18:16:30 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: GL-4
and GL-5 frustration
I recently changed the transmission and transfer case oil with a GL-5 gear
oil. According to Jeff L's site and some 3SI posts, this was the wrong
thing to do. I've asked mitsu and dodge dealers--both said GL-5 is
"GL-4
compatible" One import wholesale shop manager laughed in my
face when I
asked him to special order some GL-4 and said he's not sure if he
even wants to deal with me if I think there's a difference. I definitely
don't "know everything", but I realize now that it's hard to find people
that know about our cars (at least locally). It's interesting that they can be
so confident when they're wrong. Now that I'm done complaining, I've
driven the car for about 400 miles since I changed to the wrong fluid. Any
chance of damage in this short period? Should I change the fluid to
Redline first thing Monday when the performance shop opens? Or should I do
it when it's convenient?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
frustrated and a tad wiser
writing e-mails while GL-5 rusts his
tranny
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 18:23:19 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Rubbing noise
Ever since I crashed my car into the side of that mountain, I've been
hearing a rubbing noise from the back of my car. I asked the alignment
shop to look at it and they found nothing. For awhile I thought it was
gone, but actually it is just very quiet now. I was pretty sure that it was
just some dirt or pebbles from the mountain caught in between the brake
pad and rotor from the accident. But I've tried removing the wheel and
hosing off the brake components thoroughly. I still hear the noise. Is
there anything else the noise could be? Wheel bearings? Dry rear
differential? (I'm gonna change rear diff. oil tonight hopefully)
On a side note, while the alignment shop was balancing my tires. They were
jacking my car up, two wheels at a time--passenger/driver side, and
putting the car in gear to watch them turn. I suppose there were balancing
based on how they rotated or something like that. I read a sticker on the
inside of the door which says that the car shouldn't be started or driven with
any
wheels off the ground due to the viscous coupling. I assume
that what the
shop did could've put a strain on my AWD system (this is also
why we tow our cars FLATBED ONLY...right?). Again... any chance of damage
here? Should I make a claim and get in their face, or forget about
it?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 22:11:47 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rubbing noise
I didn't warn then about the AWD since from what I've seen, wheel balancing
is generally done off the car with a separate machine. So I thought that's
what they would do too. But I happened to walk over when they were almost
done. 2 wheels on the ground and two spinning in the air. As they were
doing whatever "on-car method" for balancing, I heard a loud rubbing noise. This
noise sounded different than the quiet rubbing noise from after hitting
the mountain. This rubbing was almost loud enough to call a grinding
noise. While they were balancing the last couple wheels I asked them "is
that noise something to worry about?" ... as I thought to myself what the
hell are they doing??? And the employee at the shop said oh yeah...
your LSD is just a little bit "unhappy" since it wants to spin 4 at the
same time, but it's nothing to worry about.
Well, he sounded so sure about it that I did believe him. I thought maybe
since it's a short period of time, no biggie. Car handled just fine on the
way home too. Plus, these guys have been in business forever. Their prices
reflect it too. No hurry-it-up "flat rate" alignments here. They only did
this two wheels in the air thing for a short period of time. Less than 2 minutes
of spinning and verifying per wheel = about 5 to 6 minutes of running the
car like that.
So what do I do next? Is 5 to 6 minutes enough to hurt anything? Should I
just forget about it, or should I ask the local mitsu dealer to check the
AWD system and bill the alignment shop for it? If anyone cares to give me
a hand in getting started, I'd appreciate that. But for everyone else's
sake, be sure to keep any responses that lack technical info off the list.
- -------------->
Damn, that shop should have KNOWN better. I
think you have cause for a suit, Riyan.
- ------------>
Mitsu
specifically
says not to allow anything but all 4 or none in driving or
engine running conditions.
You should get your all wheel drive system looked at by an expert as soon
as possible, IMO.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#13
**************************************