Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Friday, November 29 2002   Volume 02 : Number 012
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 09:31:33 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Struts, options
 
If you really want the ride quality of your ECS to remain, then replace them with ECS struts.  Try this link, they have ECS struts for about $140 ea  https://www.trademotion.com/memberservices/index.cfm?action=login&siteid=840
 
Most people that replace with the Gabriels are not that satisfied.
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Frey" <mike21b@ptd.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 8:11 AM
Subject: Team3S: New Struts, options
 
> I'll be replacing my front struts on my 92 RT/TT, probably the rears
> as well.
>
> I'm more interested in ride quality and value over performance. In
> other words, I don't want anything that is stiffer than stock when set
> on "Tour" mode. I never use the Sport setting.
>
> AutoZone has struts for about $160 each, they tell me that Gabriel
> makes them.
>
> Any recommendations?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 12:33:52 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Struts, options
 
With a little extra cash and research, you can have both.  Try to find a
strut/shock manufacturer (Gabriel, KYB) that has a good warrantee (some
have lifetime), try for a low pressure gas strut.  To top it off, there
are a couple of companies that make matched front and rear sway bars for
both the NA and TT versions of our cars.  That will give you improved
handling with relatively good ride characteristics.  The bars are a bear
to put on though.  The change, however, will be dramatic.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
Mike Frey wrote:
 
>I'll be replacing my front struts on my 92 RT/TT, probably the rears as
>well.
>
>I'm more interested in ride quality and value over performance. In
>other words, I don't want anything that is stiffer than stock when set
>on "Tour" mode. I never use the Sport setting.
>
>AutoZone has struts for about $160 each, they tell me that Gabriel
>makes them.
>
>Any recommendations?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 12:43:19 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: This car is a nightmare!
 
Only you can be the final judge.  Sounds like you had a 60k maintenance
performed ......... great.  Always a big $$$ project.  How's the engine
running, trans, condition of body, interior?  Are all the accessories
working?  Tires?  The costs of some of the items seem a bit on the high
side.  Dealer do them?  What are you looking to get out of the car?  Do
you like the way it drives/handles?  Is it fast enough for you as it is?
 Answer these and you've answered your original question.
 
If the basic condition is good and you're satisfied with the engine
performance, there are plenty of mods you can make to dramatically
improve the car's handling.  It all depends on how long you're going to
keep the car and if you want to spend a little more.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
Planet wrote:
 
>I got my '92 Stealth SOHC in late October. I have spent at least $3500
>on it already. But at least it has a new...
>
>Water Pump - $161
>New exhaust between flex and muffler - $1217
>Gas tank - $550
>Belts - $150
>Sway bar links - $85
>Front left lower ball joint - $438
>Rear wiper switch - 34.18
>
>total labour - $700
>
>AND IT ISN'T THAT FAST!
>Should I sell? I just bought it in late October early November.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 13:35:00 -0500
From: "Planet" <planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S: This car is a nightmare!
 
I'm just north of Toronto in Ontario. Yah I have seen a couple ES's. Actually when I took it in  to get the new water pump yesterday they asked if it was the DOHC and if it was, it would of  been a lot more. The base is the cheapest. This is my first car and 3.0L v6 sohc is good enough  for me. Not good on gas but I don't really have to drive far all the often. It was all leather  interior, sunroof, power doors/windows. The car has 200 000 km, but the engine has been rebuilt.  I don't know how many km on the rebuilt engine. I have had work done at a dealer (first mitsu in  Canada), Speedy and Midas. For some reason the smaller places charge wayyyyy tooooo much, part  wise and labour. I found out after that speedy could of got me a new cat for $150 after I had it  replaced at the dealer for $771. I thought the dealer was a good price. I took it too one of the  local shops that is pretty good and they told me the cat was $1100. Everyone tells me never to  take it to dealers or chains. But it seems they have the lowest prices. I need some opinions  here, I will give you the numbers.
 
Bought the car for $3000
Spent $3500
 
Black book value. $6800
 
So I am still under what the government thinks this car is worth.
 
>You must have a Base Stealth.  If you'd like to stick with the Stealth,
>your best bang for your buck will be an ES model.  222hp, not as
>stylish as an RT which just adds cosmetic body panels.
 
>Where are you in Canada?
 
What mods can I make on a base stealth. The only thing I care about is acceleration. There isn't  much need for good handling around here. Around here off-the-line is what matters. There is an  over excess of rice rockets. I'm talking riced up sunfires, cavaliers, shadows. I want be able to  spank some crap as civic hatch-backs. What can I do?
 
Can the twin turbo's take 5.0L stangs off the line?
 
One more question. On the door panel the sticker says my car weighs 4000lb's. I sure the hell  hope not. Last time I had it weight it was more like 3000 lb's. What's the deal on this?
 
>If the basic condition is good and you're satisfied with the engine
>performance, there are plenty of mods you can make to dramatically
>improve the car's handling.  It all depends on how long you're going to
>keep the car and if you want to spend a little more.
 
Jason
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 12:54:48 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: This car is a nightmare!
 
Jason-
 
should we revise the thread subject to... CARS ARE NIGHTMARES! cars are expensive, period (that  is, if you don't work on them yourself.) Especially 3S. Mechanics get so excited when they see  our cars since they're complicated which means more markup for them.
 
1.
 
I personally feel that $771 was quite a bit for the cat. Did they replace the pre-cats too? Any  other stuff while they were there? Ask them to itemize the invoice if they haven't already. And  are we in Canadian dollars or US dollars? Remember that speedy wasn't going to really do the cat  for $150. Maybe they quoted you on parts only. And since they're so speedy, they probably  would've stripped some nuts and billed you any drilling, tapping, and that whole bit. They'd  claim that "we're not liable for rust on your car".
 
2.
 
If you've spent that much money on the car, I think you should seriously consider keeping it.  Don't you have an attachment to it yet? I'm so attached to my car that I'd almost pay the full  value of it just to keep it on the road if anything happened...wait, I think I have already!! :O
 
Now I'm sure there's many who would disagree with me, since the other side of the coin is to  "cut your losses"... but wow if you've spent that much on the car plus it's had a rebuild then  IMO it's got quite a long future. And I remember a previous thread on SOHC supercharger kits.  You may want to look into that (again, search the Team3S archives and e-mail me privately if  you're having trouble finding it). About weight, I think they put the TT weight sticker on your  car by accident. AWD, AWS, and turbos puts TT cars at nearly 4000 lbs. You should be  significantly less. Unfortunately since I'm down in Cali, I don't know of any shops in Canada.  Maybe someone else on the list does.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 13:18:48 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: removing a Stillen downpipe
 
Just how do you do it? I got under the car today and I have no clue how to reach the flange nuts  with that little amount of clearance. No wonder the exhaust shop charged a lot for the install.  I want to clean out that rear pre-cat though.
 
Riyan Mynuddin
93 Stealth RT TT
 
Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved" main and front pre-cat,  450cc injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12 PSI, EK2 Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P.  Cold Air Box, S-AFC, Boost, A/F, and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP resistor  bypass+hotwire, U.P. Front and Rear S-Bars
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 23:31:03 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing a Stillen downpipe
 
Pretty easy with a long adapter for the ratchet to reach the nuts on the rear flange. Just start  with the flange at the cat-back, then the front flange at the O2 sensor housing and then the  rear ones. Finally remove the bolts on the hangers and you're done. Take about half an hour if  the bolts are not rusted in.
 
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 10:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: removing a Stillen downpipe
 
> Just how do you do it? I got under the car today and I have no clue
> how to reach the flange nuts with that little amount of clearance. No
> wonder the exhaust shop charged a lot for the install. I want to clean
> out that rear pre-cat though.
>
> Riyan Mynuddin
> 93 Stealth RT TT
>
> Stillen Intake, Stillen Downpipe, ATR SingleShot Catback, "Improved"
> main and front pre-cat, 450cc injectors; cleaned and matched, MBC @ 12
> PSI, EK2 Fuel Rail mod, EK2 EGR "upgrade", U.P. Cold Air Box, S-AFC,
> Boost, A/F, and Fuel PSI gauges, TurboXS H-34 Bypass Valve, FP
> resistor bypass+hotwire, U.P. Front and Rear S-Bars
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 22:53:47 -0500
From: "Andre Cerri" <cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Struts, options
 
The cut throat dealers do the stock struts for $126 or so per corner.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Ninneman
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Struts, options
 
With a little extra cash and research, you can have both.  Try to find a
strut/shock manufacturer (Gabriel, KYB) that has a good warrantee (some
have lifetime), try for a low pressure gas strut.  To top it off, there
are a couple of companies that make matched front and rear sway bars for
both the NA and TT versions of our cars.  That will give you improved
handling with relatively good ride characteristics.  The bars are a bear
to put on though.  The change, however, will be dramatic.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
Mike Frey wrote:
 
>I'll be replacing my front struts on my 92 RT/TT, probably the rears as
>well.
>
>I'm more interested in ride quality and value over performance. In
>other words, I don't want anything that is stiffer than stock when set
>on "Tour" mode. I never use the Sport setting.
>
>AutoZone has struts for about $160 each, they tell me that Gabriel
>makes them.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 23:03:30 -0500
From: "Planet" <planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S: 3S Parts on ebay. What do you think?
 
I find these two links. I actually wanted to replace my 10 year old stock muffler from my '92 I  found this, seems cheap
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873703331
 
Here is the K&N 'style' intake mod.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873695027
 
I like the muffler. Mine is missing one of the chrome tips.
Is the real air filer mod or some cheap version of a better one?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 22:26:40 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3S Parts on ebay. What do you think?
 
The muffler may not be that bad of a deal, but I'd definitely ask about the details... who made  it etc. Get the manufacturer name and do a search on them to find street value. Just don't buy  the muffler "for the tip", since you should be able to get them at your local auto parts store  for pretty cheap.
 
Assuming you're more concerned about the lost tip than having a new "performance" muffler, your  choices for tips would be to get an OEM replacement for the one your lost or buy two new  matching aftermarket ones...whichever is cheaper I suppose.  Also, remember that you're not  going to get 12 hp off the mod like advertised. That is a completely false claim IMO. NA cars  get just a few hp, if any. You can plan on 2 or 3. If your were TT, that's a new ball game and  depends on the other mods that accompany it.
 
About the intake:
 
The air intake is not the real thing, it's an imitation. This also means that it won't come with  the CARB sticker. Here in California that's a very BAD thing. Both K&N and Stillen intakes come  with the CARB sticker.  First of all, no CARB sticker in Cali = autofail smog check. I'd fail  anyway with clean cats and upgraded injectors so I'm not too worried about that. I'm worried  about the other problem around here... which is that once a cop sees an aftermarket intake w/o a  carb sticker then they start looking at the rest of your car for illegal mods. If you want your  car to have an "aftermarket upgrade" future, then it's good to have a CARB intake sticker to  reduce the suspicion. Now I'm not sure if that guideline applies to you in Canada, but be sure  you do your research before buying something uncertified. If your research finds you no worries,  then buy all the uncertified stuff you want (granted it's good quality).
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 12:05:48 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing a Stillen downpipe
 
> Just how do you do it? I got under the car today and I have
> no clue how to
> reach the flange nuts with that little amount of clearance.
 
I've always been able to get the connections to the O2 housings off with (all 1/2" drive) a 19mm  mid-length 6pt socket, a U-joint, a 9" extension, and a breaker bar or socket wrench.  The  U-joint is key for the passenger's
side rear bank nut.  The others can be done with just an extension.   For
the rear connection to the cat-back, all you need is a wrench or two of whatever size bolts they  stuck on there (stock bolts cannot be reused there with the Stillen).  Of course, getting the  nuts off is probably only 20% of the fun.  Yours is a 1G, so it may be easier (I hope!)  But on  my 2Gs, I had to wrap my arms and legs around the downpipe and hang like a monkey to get the  @#$% thing off.  Sorry, no pictures :-)  It took 30 minutes of hanging, rocking, prying,  beating, and swearing to get it off.  The price you pay for using a BFH to install it :-)
 
- --Erik
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #12
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