Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, November 27 2002 Volume 02 : Number
010
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:01:06 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: intake pressure-testing with dual intake
Hello,
I have the dual AAM intake on my car. To pressure test, do
I need to cover/cap one side while I pressure-test the other? Do I
need to do both sides like this?
thanks for any help,
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:22:49 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: intake pressure-testing with dual intake
Bill, ... of course you have to. Just think of that, as you have a path
where the both channels go into one throttle body and there is nowhere any
valve that closes to the other !!
At 09:01 26.11.2002 -0500, Bill vp wrote:
>Hello,
>I have the
dual AAM intake on my car. To pressure test, do I need to
>cover/cap one side while I pressure-test the other? Do I need to
do
>both sides like this?
>
>thanks for any
help,
>Bill
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 04:53:49 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Stealth meets mountain!
Yep, that's right. I'm back from one of the longest nights of my life. It's
5:00am !! I went down to the local mountain pass after I had just
turned my boost up to 0.8 bar. I decided to "try out the new strut
bars"... and try them out I did! It all started as an innocent drive. Up
came a turn, which I wasn't ready for. I slammed into the side of the
mountain.
As far as damage goes:
The passenger side rear wheel seems to have gotten a good beating. There
was mud and grass that actually made it into the seam of the wheel.
Needless to say, my wheel alignment went to hell! I do wonder if it's
still alignable??... or if I'm gonna need new suspension parts. Any
guesses? Based on the severity of the damage, I'd estimate the collision
to have taken place at 35mph. The only body damage is to the rear bumper
assembly (will need to be replaced) and the passenger side rear quarter
panel. The quarter panel damage looks like it can be straightened out.
I'll have pics soon. However, I don't have a digital camera, but I'll try
to get them developed tomorrow. The passenger side front tire went flat
too , but that seems to be from sliding over a rock since there's no signs
of body damage on that side of the car.
But there's more . . .
When the tow truck dropped me at home, I had to drive about 100 feet to my
parking space. Since the two flat tires buckled as I turned into my
parking spot, I ended up driving about 15 of those feet ON THE RIMS..
LITERALLY. Could that damage be machined, or will I need new wheels?
Oh, and... no comprehensive insurance = pay out of my pocket.
Wish me luck...
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
mountain pass mod. :O
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:38:14 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stealth meets mountain!
At least you are okay, and it could have been worse you could have gone off
the other side of the mountain and tried out your superman skills
:O
As for damage, the body work does not sound too bad, the wheels as long as
you have not destroyed the beads of the rims they should be fixable.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 7:54
AM
Subject: Team3S: Stealth meets mountain!
Yep, that's right. I'm back from one of the longest nights of my life. It's
5:00am !! I went down to the local mountain pass after I had just
turned my boost up to 0.8 bar. I decided to "try out the new strut
bars"... and try them out I did! It all started as an innocent drive. Up
came a turn, which I wasn't ready for. I slammed into the side of the
mountain.
------------------------------
What a coincidence! MY alignment shop knocked a huge crunch in the
left side of my bumper cover in about the same place and I didn't notice
it until I was at the track the next weekend. What is it they are
running into to cause that damage?
Chuck Willis
"My alignment shop tore mine right up along the left side of the front
vent, all the way to the top vent, so the center lower portion
hangs.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:59:53 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wanted: Front Bumper Cover
My guess from looking at the alignment rack where I go (was there last
night, doing an alignment for a friends S4) is the edge of the metal ramps
to prevent someone from driving off the sides. If you car is lowered
it definitely increases the risk of getting caught on that.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002
9:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wanted: Front Bumper Cover
What a coincidence! MY alignment shop knocked a huge crunch in the
left side of my bumper cover in about the same place and I didn't notice
it until I was at the track the next weekend. What is it they are
running into to cause that damage?
Chuck Willis
"My alignment shop tore mine right up along the left side of the front
vent, all the way to the top vent, so the center lower portion
hangs.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:10:45 -0800
From: "eK2mfg" <
eK2mfg@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
DNPerformance
My experience with DN,
got in on the group buy for the NA intakes back in 2001....these were
supposed to deliver 9/11...we all know what happened so enough said...they
are in New York. We ALL paid 3-5 weeks prior to the ship date...after 5
weeks after 9/11 we all started asking about it.....took 6 weeks after
that. Out of the 15 or so in the GB I know of 3 that were unhappy with
quality (me,greenRT,one other I won name) so your going to get a ratio of
1:5 it looks like...even reading the emails before this your getting 20%
fallout........its your money do what you feel is best. I can sustain life
with the hole in my intake tube (not the ones that are supposed to be
there) the one that the welder burnt through. Was told to deal with
it......another vendor stepped in to cover his mistakes but it wasn't his
responsibility...appreciated the effort on his part but I am not the
"returning customer" list with Don at DN performance anymore since
then.
sorry to extend the none tech post and rant.......but I did include a
mathematic ratio :)
bobk.
------------------------------
Sorry I sent the last e-mail in HTML Format.
I was driving this weekend and after launching during a race when I tried
to make the 1st-2nd transition the car wouldn't go into any gear. After
fishing around enough it finally went into 3rd. I drove the car to a gas
station, stopped and the car was shifting fine. Drove the car home with no
issues. I have had some issue with (the linkage I was told) going into first.
Sometimes I'll put it in first, start coming off the clutch and it will
kick it out of gear. It only happens in first and I think that could have
something to do with the above problem. Can anyone try to help trouble
shoot? Maybe the clutch needs to be adjusted? Linkage is sloppy? Anyone in
the Denver area help?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4
Spyder
BPU/Kormex tranny/RPS Stage III clutch 5k mi on everything.
Curtis McConnell
Pulte Mortgage
(800) 426-8898 x-3591
Fax (303)
740-3591
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:24:59 -0800 (PST)
From: BRANDY BLASOR <
brandyblasor@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transmission Issues
I don't know much about that sort of thing, but the same thing just
happened to me, and I thought I was going to have to replace the
clutch. Turns out I only need a bottle of clutch fluid and my clutch
line bled. Only cost me like $10 bucks. Curtis McConnell
<
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
wrote:Sorry I sent the last e-mail in HTML Format.
I was driving this weekend and after launching during a race when I tried
to make the 1st-2nd transition the car wouldn't go into any gear. After
fishing around enough it finally went into 3rd. I drove the car to a gas
station, stopped and the car was shifting fine. Drove the car home with no
issues. I have had some issue with (the linkage I was told) going into first.
Sometimes I'll put it in first, start coming off the clutch and it will
kick it out of gear. It only happens in first and I think that could have
something to do with the above problem. Can anyone try to help trouble
shoot? Maybe the clutch needs to be adjusted? Linkage is sloppy? Anyone in
the Denver area help?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4
Spyder
BPU/Kormex tranny/RPS Stage III clutch 5k mi on everything.
Curtis McConnell
Pulte Mortgage
(800) 426-8898 x-3591
Fax (303)
740-3591
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 06:20:35 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
locked and stripped lug nut
After I crashed into the side of the mountain, I attempted to put my spare
on so that I'd minimize rim damage when the tow truck came. When I tried
to get my old tire off, I was successful in removing all the lug nuts
except the one with the "safety/security key" in it. As I loosened it, the
safety key receptacle on the tire itself stripped slightly, and the lug
nut also cracked. Now when I try to loosen it, the small crack expands
momentarily, making the key slip. If I try to bang on the lug nut with the
small lug wrench, it's not really cracked enough to break either. It's
that annoying "in between" type of crack which seems big enough to make
the lug nut impossible to unscrew, but not break off. How should I go about
getting this lug nut off?
Some of my choices that I can think of:
1) Press in really hard while I turn the lug nut---hopefully enough to
break it in half
2) Dremel/drill it until it cracks and falls off... which
dremel accessory or drill bit material would work?
3) Get a
hammer+screwdriver and start smashing the hell out of it... (but this could make
things worse, and most likely will ruin the threads on the
stud)
4)
....I hope you guys can think of better ideas than these!
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
mountain pass mod
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:14:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: The
new Mazda RX-8
Motorweeks cover story this week is the new Mazda
RX-8, anyone else see
it?
Not sure what to make of this thing yet, I halfway
like the design,
but the rear mini-suicide doors on a sportscar? June 2003 $30,000 base
price 1.3-liter 247hp Rotary 95th percentile male back seat... (a family
sedan/sports car?) pillar less doors... innovative RWD, 6 speed 3000
pounds
0-60 6.0(est) no 1/4 mi time for us...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:16:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Mazda RX-8
Oops, that was AutoWeek, not MotorWeek...
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:20:52 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: locked and stripped lug nut
Riyan,
I have some tricks to get those @#$# locking lugnuts
off. I'm sure some of the other members know of these, too...
I used one of these methods on all four of mine when I lost my key.
The lug nuts came off just fine. I don't want to post this for all the
world to see, since I don't want to give any hooligans searching our
archives any ideas. Using this technique, anyone could steal your
locking-nut-equipped wheels with a scissor jack, a normal lug wrench, and
a $2 tool. It *should* work on your lug with no problems as long as the
threads are ok. Will send you a private e-mail.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with 20 normal lug nuts and I don't park in Tacoma or
Seattle
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:27:03 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From:
"Jeff & Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: The new Mazda RX-8
I didn't see the story but I
have been following this car since the rumor last year. I contacted
MazdaUSA.com and received a dvd on it. I also am on the dealers waiting list for
a test drive when they first get here (approx. June 2003) . I used to own
a 88 RX-7 . This car looks or from the research, will be nothing like it
other than having a revised rotary engine. After more research, this
may be my next car.
Regards
Jeff
93 Stealth
- -------Original Message-------
From: Roger Ludwig
Date: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 9:19:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: The new Mazda
RX-8
Motorweeks cover story this week is the new Mazda
RX-8,
anyone else see it?
Not sure what to make of this thing yet, I
halfway
like the design, but the rear mini-suicide doors on a sportscar? June
2003 $30,000 base price 1.3-liter 247hp Rotary 95th percentile male back
seat... (a family sedan/sports car?) pillar less doors... innovative RWD,
6 speed 3000 pounds
0-60 6.0(est) no 1/4 mi time for us...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:44:27 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: The new Mazda RX-8
Only a 3-rotor would save this design.
It's a slap in the face to any
previous RXn Owner.
It's not even close to a 'European' sports sedan.
It was supposed to be 270 HP. It probably drives a little sporty, but not
enough to fool anyone. The price may get a few buyers to settle for this.
The review lived right up to my original fears when they announced
this.
Kurt
Prior RX3 / RX7 owner, wondering where the zoom-zoom went.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Ludwig
[mailto:yiotta@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 9:15
AM
Subject: Team3S: The new Mazda RX-8
Motorweeks cover story this week is the new Mazda
RX-8, anyone else see
it?
Not sure what to make of this thing yet, I halfway
like the design,
but the rear mini-suicide doors on a sportscar? June 2003 $30,000 base
price 1.3-liter 247hp Rotary 95th percentile male back seat... (a family
sedan/sports car?) pillar less doors... innovative RWD, 6 speed 3000
pounds
0-60 6.0(est) no 1/4 mi time for us...
------------------------------
1yr too late.
350z stole the 'cool retro sports car' market away I think.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:46:29 -0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: locked and stripped lug nut
Just go to napa and tell them you want to steal rims, and
ask for the
tool for it. :)
Seriously, they make a tool to pull those off, it is basically a funnel
with a 3/8 or 1/2" drive on the end, and you beat it onto the nut, then it
cranks right off just from the friction. Places like NTB all have them
too, and they will break 1 off for like $12 or something, which is less
than the tool.
geis <- who hopes you weren't writing this whilst
waiting
upon the tow truck.
------------------------------
The zoom-zoom went away. Nobody wants to buy it.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:47:26 -0500
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
A little late on this, but FWIW a lot of cars specially GMs are actually
designed to run hotter for the express purpose of getting the emissions
down by getting the catalytic converter hotter. Which comes at the
expense of horsepower.
I don't know what temp the VR4/TT thermostat is set to, but I would take a
blind shot at this and say the exhaust temp is hotter due to the turbos so
there wouldn't be a need to run the engine hotter...
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Nope..its not.
>
> However, one
would wonder WHY you would want a cooler Tstat...engines
> were designed
to run at specific temps.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:54:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
And when you design hotter for emissions, your clearances are also designed
for the higher temps.
On Tue, 26 Nov 2002, Mark Frouhar wrote:
> A little late on this, but FWIW a lot of cars specially GMs are
> actually designed to run hotter for the express purpose of getting the
> emissions down by getting the catalytic converter hotter. Which
comes
> at the expense of horsepower.
>
> I don't know what
temp the VR4/TT thermostat is set to, but I would
> take a blind shot at
this and say the exhaust temp is hotter due to
> the turbos so there
wouldn't be a need to run the engine hotter...
>
> -Mark Frouhar
> 95
VR4
> 85 TA 434 DFI
T56
>
http://legoland.fbody.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:58:39 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
The stock thermostat is around 180 degrees F. This is what my
Autometer water temp gauge reads when antifreeze is in the system (not
sure what other liquids show or how fast/slow they heat/cool when in the
system). Places sell hotter and cooler thermostats but things like water
wetter also do the trick to lower temps 10-20 degrees F sometimes (as claimed by
people at track events in summer months).
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Frouhar
Sent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 12:47
A little late on this, but FWIW a lot of cars specially GMs are actually
designed to run hotter for the express purpose of getting the emissions
down by getting the catalytic converter hotter. Which comes at the
expense of horsepower.
I don't know what temp the VR4/TT thermostat is set to, but I would take a
blind shot at this and say the exhaust temp is hotter due to the turbos so
there wouldn't be a need to run the engine hotter...
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> However, one would wonder WHY you would want a
cooler Tstat...engines
> were designed to run at specific temps.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 13:17:19 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: locked and stripped lug nut
Pound on a socket (I think they're 19mm) and, using a 1/2 inch
breaker
bar, turn it off.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 9:21
AM
Subject: Team3S: locked and stripped lug nut
After I crashed into the side of the mountain, I attempted to put
my
spare on so that I'd minimize rim damage when the tow truck came. When I
tried
to get my old tire off, I was successful in removing all the lug
nuts
except the one with the "safety/security key" in it. As I loosened it,
the
safety key receptacle on the tire itself stripped slightly, and the lug
nut
also cracked. Now when I try to loosen it, the small crack
expands
momentarily, making the key slip. If I try to bang on the lug nut
with the small lug
wrench, it's not really cracked enough to break either.
It's that
annoying "in between" type of crack which seems big enough to make
the lug nut
impossible to unscrew, but not break off. How should I go about
getting
this lug nut off?
Some of my choices that I can think of:
1) Press in really hard while I turn the lug nut---hopefully enough
to
break it in half
2) Dremel/drill it until it cracks and falls off...
which dremel
accessory or drill bit material would work?
3) Get a
hammer+screwdriver and start smashing the hell out of it...
(but this could
make things worse, and most likely will ruin the threads on
the stud)
4)
....I hope you guys can think of better ideas than these!
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
mountain pass mod
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 10:31:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Active Aero Question
Hey gang,
My 99 Front End Conversion is completed on my 95VR4.
Looks
great... had to remove the active aero front
scoop, it was done by a local
shop.
Now the active aero doesn't work for the rear fin and
the "AERO"
light is on constantly.
Any thoughts on what I can do to get the rear
fin
working again and get the "AERO" light off?
I am not sure what
connections goto the front end of
the system, maybe I just need to complete a
circuit
with the front harness, if there is one?
Thanx for your
help...
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 18:32:31 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: DNPerformance
> A few years back I installed an Alamo downpipe. One
> of
the best investments I ever made.
I disagree. The flex section is too short and likes to get torn apart
under
very hard acceleration. A longer flex would've been
preferable. The pipe
fitment on the rear precat is also nothing to
write home about, with about a
1/4" misalignment (which doesn't help
performance any) and incorrect flange
angle so it leaks somewhat. The
rear bank pipe also hits on my firewall,
although that may because of the
additional reinforcement on the Spyder.
Certainly not worth the INSANE $480 they want for it these days.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 13:43:33 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DNPerformance
Sorry to hear about your experience. I've had no problems with
mine.
The pipe fit perfectly on my car with no misalignment at all, and
no
leaks. In fact, I installed it in about 20 minutes. I
questioned Alamo
about the flex section before I bought the pipe, and they
"promised"
that if I ever had a problem with it, they'd replace it. Of
course, I'm
sure they'll deny it if it ever becomes an issue. But
nevertheless. If
you think $480 is a lot, I paid $549 for it 5 years
ago.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 1:33
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: DNPerformance
> A few years back I installed an Alamo downpipe. One
> of
the best investments I ever made.
I disagree. The flex section is too short and likes to get torn
apart
under very hard acceleration. A longer flex would've been
preferable. The
pipe fitment on the rear precat is also nothing to
write home about, with
about a 1/4" misalignment (which doesn't help
performance any) and incorrect
flange angle so it leaks somewhat. The
rear bank pipe also hits on my
firewall, although that may because of the
additional reinforcement on the Spyder.
Certainly not worth the INSANE $480 they want for it these days.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:09:46 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active Aero Question
You need to put just the motor back on the front and plug the cord back
in.
That will solve the problem.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Ludwig" <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 11:31 AM
Subject: Team3S: Active Aero Question
> Hey gang,
> My 99 Front End Conversion is completed on my
95VR4.
> Looks great... had to remove the active aero front
> scoop,
it was done by a local shop.
> Now the active aero doesn't work for the
rear fin and
> the "AERO" light is on constantly.
> Any thoughts on
what I can do to get the rear fin
> working again and get the "AERO" light
off?
> I am not sure what connections goto the front end of
> the
system, maybe I just need to complete a circuit
> with the front harness,
if there is one?
> Thanx for your help...
> Roger L
>
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:30:31 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine/exhaust problems
Hello everyone, I am very new to this group and I can admit I know jack
all
about this car. My 92' Stealth SOHC is actually my first car. It seems
most
shops around here also can't tell me much. (I could not get it
certified
because the rear defogger didn't work, of course it did, stupid
mechanic
didn't know the engine had to be running).
First:
My check engine light came on like a month ago and I pulled over
and looked
in the manual to see what it means. It says there is some problem
with
exhaust and emission control. So I have been ignoring it (I don't have
cash
to fix it). I just pull the fuse to reset it and it goes away. But it
comes
on once and a while, usually when I am driving 100+ kph. What I do know
is
the flex pipe is leaking, could that be the cause of my 'check engine'
light
since there is an oxygen sensor after the pipe. Also what is the approx
cost
to get a new flex.
Second:
Previous owned had to get the engine rebuilt because she never
checked the
oil. So my father makes it a job to keep it full. To make a long
story
short, we accidentally put too much oil in. It is quite above the full
mark.
The car was in my driveway which has quite an incline. When I started
it up
a good amount of oil was dripping. from the drivers side of the engine
bay.
I backed it onto the more level road and it seemed to stop. The level
is
still quite high. Is it okay to drive it with too much oil. And is
there
some overflow spout for the oil. It only drips when it is on the
driveway
tilted to the rear. The dipstick shows half when it is on the
driveway and
too much when it is parked on the road.
I have a digital camera and would gladly take pics and put them up
somewhere
if it would help.
I would really appreciate some input as I am
quite a newbie.
Thanks
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 19:32:49 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lash adjuster tick
I had the opposite experience... the ticking began when I switched
to
Mobil 1 and a Fram Teflon filter. I only used the Teflon filter
once
before switching to the Mitsu filter, but it has continued to
tick
away ever since (4+ years and 50k+ miles). *sigh*
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:41:34 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine/exhaust problems
Jason, first, you should drain the oil to the proper level.
Second,
yes, the leak can cause the CEL to come on. Third, no you can't
buy
just the flex, you'll need to replace the pipe. And take a deep
breath.
It's gonna cost you about $350 bucks.
------------------------------
Sorry, but I'm slow on the uptake. Are we talking about the flex
section on the exhaust pipes? The muffler shop cut the old section
out and reinstalled a new one for $50.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 1:42
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine/exhaust problems
Jason, first, you should drain the oil to the proper level.
Second,
yes, the leak can cause the CEL to come on. Third, no you can't
buy
just the flex, you'll need to replace the pipe. And take a deep
breath.
It's gonna cost you about $350 bucks.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:47:02 -0500
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
I don't know if 20 degrees would make that much of a difference specially
when
it would still be within the operating limits of the engine. But
you're right
you are modifying a perfect combination, that's hotrodding for
you. You could
probably say the same thing about upping the boost with
a boost controller...
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> And when you design hotter for emissions, your
clearances are also
> designed for the higher temps.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:01:42 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Stealth meets mountain!
I hope not. But I saw the Mitchell's collision estimate for R&R
quarter
panel which says 15.5 hours of labor!? I hope they can fix my quarter
panel
with it on the car... 'cuz if not, I might not have the cash to fix her
up
for at least a few months. Well I suppose it's better lesson learned
soon
than later. With the powertrain that I'm slowly building up on this
car,
it's not too hard to go flying into stuff when I least expect it.
- --------->
As for damage, the body work does not sound too bad, the wheels as long
as
you have not destroyed the beads of the rims they should be fixable.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:06:50 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine/exhaust problems
Now is that $350 American? I'm Canadian. Also is that for the stock
pipes.
Mitsu. just came to Canada and if you want to know some other things I
had
fixed. Lets see, front left lower ball joint - $750, All the pipes
between
the flex and the muffler, including new cat, was $1100. I was told I
had to
replace all the pipes forward of the flex too. And he said those parts
are
dealer only. I'm afraid $350 is an understatement. All this for a
165hp?
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:36:11 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
vr4 meets guardrail
<drum roll please>.... for a grand total of $4700, replacing the
front
and rear bumper covers and fenders with all used parts... bastards
:)
Okay, so now I'm thinking may be it _is_ time to do the '99 front
end
conversion. Can someone give me a parts list? My front air dam
(active
aero) is messed up too, so they'd be working on it regardless. Does
it
get replaced with something else when I switch to the '99 front end?
Can
I just switch the bumper cover and worry about the side markers
and
headlights later?
Are there any alternatives to buying from the dealer? The shop will
give
me the money the insurance co is giving them for the used stuff, so
I
want to try and stay within that budget...
Thanks,
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:41:01 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: vr4 meets guardrail
Well try 3SX experts, they have a complete list of parts and quite
frankly
the most comprehensive FAQ for the conversion I have seen.
I personally want to do a 2G bumper with 99 head lights and turn
signals
along with a nice c/f hood. However money again is a
problem............
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:alex@kolosy.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 3:36 PM
Subject:
RE: Team3S: vr4 meets guardrail
<drum roll please>.... for a grand total of $4700, replacing the
front
and rear bumper covers and fenders with all used parts... bastards
:)
Okay, so now I'm thinking may be it _is_ time to do the '99 front
end
conversion. Can someone give me a parts list? My front air dam
(active
aero) is messed up too, so they'd be working on it regardless. Does
it
get replaced with something else when I switch to the '99 front end?
Can
I just switch the bumper cover and worry about the side markers
and
headlights later?
Are there any alternatives to buying from the dealer? The shop will
give
me the money the insurance co is giving them for the used stuff, so
I
want to try and stay within that budget...
Thanks,
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:52:47 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth meets mountain!
Riyan, there is a bright side to this event: you went into the side
of the
mountain instead of OVER the side!
Thank the Lord,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:54:14 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: locked and stripped lug nut
If you do destroy the stud, it's no problem to replace on the rear, and
they're
only about $4 IIRC.
AI Nut
Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> After I crashed into the side of the
mountain, I attempted to put my spare
> on so that I'd minimize rim damage
when the tow truck came. When I tried to
> get my old tire off, I was
successful in removing all the lug nuts except
> the one with the
"safety/security key" in it. As I loosened it, the safety
> key receptacle
on the tire itself stripped slightly, and the lug nut also
> cracked. Now
when I try to loosen it, the small crack expands momentarily,
> making the
key slip. If I try to bang on the lug nut with the small lug
> wrench,
it's not really cracked enough to break either. It's that annoying
> "in
between" type of crack which seems big enough to make the lug nut
>
impossible to unscrew, but not break off. How should I go about getting
this
> lug nut off?
>
> Some of my choices that I can think
of:
>
> 1) Press in really hard while I turn the lug
nut---hopefully enough to break
> it in half
> 2) Dremel/drill it
until it cracks and falls off... which dremel accessory
> or drill bit
material would work?
> 3) Get a hammer+screwdriver and start smashing the
hell out of it... (but
> this could make things worse, and most likely
will ruin the threads on the
> stud)
> 4) ....I hope you guys can
think of better ideas than these!
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt
tt
> mountain pass mod
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:56:40 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: '99
Front end conversion
Hey all,
So I started looking at a '99 front-end conversion and I've got a
few
questions (I looked at the 3sx q 'n a)
Do I need to remove the front active aero?
Do I have to switch headlight now? I don't have the money for that -
can
I just get the bumper and the sidemarkers and do the headlights
later?
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:01:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
'99 Front end conversion
I just did the 99 Conversion, I got a copy of the
parts list for the 95
and the 99, and ordered all the
parts that were different and used those that
were
similar.
Bought em discounted through my dealer for $1500
total.. that does not
include the fog/driving lights.
The front active aero must be removed.
I
am dealing with getting my rear wing operational
again after removing the
front, should be an easy fix
tho.
The 99 uses different headlights, and they are the
most expensive part,
list is nearly $800 each...
The existing headlights and sidelights do not fit
the
99 bumper, but the 2nd gen hood is the same.
Good luck, it looks
great :)
Roger L
F15DOC
- --- Alex Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com> wrote:
> Hey
all,
>
> So I started looking at a '99 front-end conversion
>
and I've got a few
> questions (I looked at the 3sx q 'n a)
>
> Do I need to remove the front active aero?
>
> Do I have
to switch headlight now? I don't have the
> money for that - can
> I
just get the bumper and the sidemarkers and do the
> headlights
later?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
> '95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:05:11 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine/exhaust problems
It can be hazardous to the engine to drive it with the oil overfull, almost
as
bad as driving without oil.
AI Nut
Planet wrote:
> Hello everyone, I am very new to this group and I can
admit I know jack all
> about this car. My 92' Stealth SOHC is actually my
first car. It seems most
> shops around here also can't tell me much. (I
could not get it certified
> because the rear defogger didn't work, of
course it did, stupid mechanic
> didn't know the engine had to be
running).
>
> First:
> My check engine light came on like a
month ago and I pulled over and looked
> in the manual to see what it
means. It says there is some problem with
> exhaust and emission control.
So I have been ignoring it (I don't have cash
> to fix it). I just pull
the fuse to reset it and it goes away. But it comes
> on once and a while,
usually when I am driving 100+ kph. What I do know is
> the flex pipe is
leaking, could that be the cause of my 'check engine' light
> since there
is an oxygen sensor after the pipe. Also what is the approx cost
> to get
a new flex.
>
> Second:
> Previous owned had to get the
engine rebuilt because she never checked the
> oil. So my father makes it
a job to keep it full. To make a long story
> short, we accidentally put
too much oil in. It is quite above the full mark.
> The car was in my
driveway which has quite an incline. When I started it up
> a good amount
of oil was dripping. from the drivers side of the engine bay.
> I backed
it onto the more level road and it seemed to stop. The level is
> still
quite high. Is it okay to drive it with too much oil. And is there
> some
overflow spout for the oil. It only drips when it is on the driveway
>
tilted to the rear. The dipstick shows half when it is on the driveway
and
> too much when it is parked on the road.
>
> I have a
digital camera and would gladly take pics and put them up somewhere
> if
it would help.
> I would really appreciate some input as I am quite a
newbie.
>
> Thanks
> Jason
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:09:54 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
I can point to a white paper on the new zz series Toyota motors, where
if
coolant temps under 180 were used in the block, the cylinder walls
didn't
warm up enough to properly work with the new ring design right.
Significant ring wear in high sulfur (As in ANY U.S.A. grade fuel)
fuels
Its just..something to think about.
A cooler thermostat doesn't solve a heat issue.
On Tue, 26 Nov 2002, Mark Frouhar wrote:
> I don't know if 20 degrees would make that much of a difference
specially when
> it would still be within the operating limits of the
engine. But you're right
> you are modifying a perfect combination,
that's hotrodding for you. You could
> probably say the same thing
about upping the boost with a boost controller...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:41:54 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Stealth meets mountain!
Agreed. I'm good on roads, but mountain passes are quite new to me.
All
it took was a tad too much adrenalin and excitement in conjunction with
lack
of experience, and now I'm eating dirt and grass. My friend took pics
of the
car today with his digicam. I'll post them as soon as he e-mails them
to
me.
- --------------->
You may want to learn how to drive the car before making it go any
faster???
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 18:02:35 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stealth meets mountain!
truthfully, I was there once and managed to put the car into a flat spin
on
2 separate occasions. This is a good way to make you realize how
hard it is
to recover these cars when you upset their balance.
Team3s content: with the number of times the 99 conversion gets
discussed
would it be possible to have the TEAM3S page have some links to say
3SX's
faq pages along with a couple other tidbits of information?
Maybe from some of the folks that have done it would be kind enough to do
a
small right up?
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:13:24 -0600
From: "David, Jon (J)" <
JDavid@dow.com>
Subject: Team3S: 92 VR-4
Muffler
I am trying to find a flow chart for the VR-4 muffler or maybe a cut-away
shot of it. It has one pipe going into the muffler before flowing to the
other side of the car. Most of the time it flows 85% drivers side and 15%
passenger side, does this change from sport setting to touring setting?
Can the pipes going to the passenger side be blocked off (if going with a dual
VR-4 muffler exhaust)?
Thanks for any help and insight,
Jon (when will my datalogger cable get
here?) David
92 Blk VR-4 Stock for now
91 Red VR-4 Parts car
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 23:20:21 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: '99 Front end conversion
> The 99 uses different headlights, and they are the
> most
expensive part, list is nearly $800 each...
> The existing headlights and
sidelights do not fit the
> 99 bumper, but the 2nd gen hood is the
same.
The '94-98 headlights will work with the '99 front bumper - only the corner
marker lights are different. I've seen it done, and plan on doing it
that way
if I replace the front on my car. The $1600 for headlights
only gets you the
bulgey projector circles on the front lens and the black
background color -
nothing more.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:27:26 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 92 VR-4 Muffler
Jon, it sounds like you are trying to stick the driver side muffler on
both
sides?! Before you go too far into this consider 2 things.
#1 The stock muffler is a brick, no a cinder block! It is HEAVY! Why
would
you want two of it?!
#2 The passenger side of the car has very
little room. There is no way you
are going to fit that honking muffler
there...
Just my 2 cents.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: David, Jon (J)
Sent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 3:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: 92 VR-4 Muffler
I am trying to find a flow chart for the VR-4 muffler or maybe a
cut-away
shot of it. It has one pipe going into the muffler before flowing to
the
other side of the car. Most of the time it flows 85% drivers side and
15%
passenger side, does this change from sport setting to touring setting?
Can
the pipes going to the passenger side be blocked off (if going with a
dual
VR-4 muffler exhaust)?
Thanks for any help and insight,
Jon (when will my datalogger cable get
here?) David
92 Blk VR-4 Stock for now
91 Red VR-4 Parts car
------------------------------
Here's the rule for mountain roads, from my rally days:
Go as fast as you want uphill.
Careful going downhill.
That's all you really need to know.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:34:25 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: '99 Front end conversion
Yeah but... Those bulging lenses and black background color would look oh
so
sweet on my black 95 to replace peeling lexan laminate syndrome ,
or
whatever the heck you call it - 3000GT leprosy... $1600 <sigh> mod
that I
won't be able to afford in the near future.
Sounds like it would be cheaper to buy a 99 than try to make one from
the
parts bin.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> The '94-98 headlights will work with the '99 front bumper - only the
corner
> marker lights are different. I've seen it done, and plan on
doing it that way
> if I replace the front on my car. The $1600 for
headlights only gets you the
> bulgey projector circles on the front lens
and the black background color -
> nothing more.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:58:01 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
IAC
Ryan from the local NWS3 group has asked me to put a word out for an
IAC.
His has gone toast and his car is in the shop for other engine work so
he
needs one asap. Its for a '92 VR4. If anyone has an extra they want to
sell
or something please let me know.
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 18:55:10 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 92
VR-4 Muffler
Omar
- -----Original Message-----
From: David, Jon (J)
Sent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 6:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: 92 VR-4 Muffler
I am trying to find a flow chart for the VR-4 muffler or maybe
a
cut-away shot of it. It has one pipe going into the muffler
before
flowing to the other side of the car. Most of the time it flows
85%
drivers side and 15% passenger side, does this change from sport
setting
to touring setting? Can the pipes going to the passenger side be
blocked
off (if going with a dual VR-4 muffler exhaust)?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:00:55 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
bumper interchange/compatibility
Now that I ruined my rear bumper, I'd like to take this opportunity to put
a
standard stealth R/T bumper rather than the TT bumper. I only want
one
exhaust cutout since I have switched to the singleshot catback system.
I
probably don't need to bother asking since the body styling looks
identical,
but if anyone can confirm that this basic interchange works, then
that would
be great.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
mountain pass mod...
so I might as
well kill two birds w/one stone :)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 18:35:00 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
I can tell you that the Fiero guys (which I am now one of) also like
to
change out their 195 deg thermostats with a 160 deg thermostat. Here
is
what it says on one web site selling the 160s:
"A new 160 degree thermostat will lower the engine temperature to give
a
cooler air charge for better running conditions and increased HP. The
Fiero
engine has always run hot, install a 160 thermostat and notice
better
performance at lower temperatures."
I don't buy it. There are better ways to lower the intake charge than
to
alter the engine operating temperature. Such as moving the intake
or
insulating the exhaust. On our 3S cars, this should not be as big a
deal.
The TTs have intercoolers and the NAs don't have their intake close to
the
exhaust like on the Fiero and other GM cars. I'm going to stick
with the
stock thermostat myself.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:16:17 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Engine/exhaust problems
Welcome to the group Jason. You can ask anyone on this board since a
good
number of them will know how naive I was about my car when I first
joined.
I still know very little compared to the senior members--there's just
so
much to learn about 3S... So it's is nothing to be ashamed of. After all,
we
all started there, right?
Enough chat.
My flex pipe began leaking and I continued to drive the car for about
500
miles. No check engine light. However, I'm sure it has something to do
with
the size of the leak. An exhaust shop *claimed* that they could replace
just
the flex section for around $150 on my car. This sounded fishy to me,
and I
like swapping things out for performance parts when they break. I ended
up
getting a Stillen downpipe for my TT. I don't know what options there
are
for aftermarket SOHC downpipes, but if you're anything like me, you'd
start
looking into one rather than putting another stock unit in.
Oh, one more thing. Driving with too much oil will cause oil to burn
which
leaves excessive deposits on your valves and heads. This lowers
the
effective octane of your fuel during combustion. Also, it may put
more
pressure on your engine oil seals. And you DO NOT want to replace
these
before the 60k service. I can write you a book about that if you need.
Take
care of the oil level soon.
------------------------------
I've been looking all over for news of a new 3000GT, or at least something
to
fill the void left by the car in the Mitsubishi lineup.
With the 350Z out, the RX-8 comin up, an updated NSX,and a new Supra
bout a
year away, where is Mitsu in all of this. Do they at leas have a
concept goin
out?
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 22:00:02 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
Who says the LOWERing the temps makes the engine have more
performance? I have
always heard that higher engine temps increase
fuel efficiency and performance.
AI Nut
<still hating having to mangle the reply box>
dakken wrote:
> I can tell you that the Fiero guys (which I am now
one of) also like to
> change out their 195 deg thermostats with a 160 deg
thermostat. Here is
> what it says on one web site selling the
160s:
>
> "A new 160 degree thermostat will lower the engine
temperature to give a
> cooler air charge for better running conditions
and increased HP. The Fiero
> engine has always run hot, install a 160
thermostat and notice better
> performance at lower temperatures."
>
> I don't buy it. There are better ways to lower the intake charge
than to
> alter the engine operating temperature. Such as moving the
intake or
> insulating the exhaust. On our 3S cars, this should not
be as big a deal.
> The TTs have intercoolers and the NAs don't have their
intake close to the
> exhaust like on the Fiero and other GM cars.
I'm going to stick with the
> stock thermostat myself.
>
>
Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:20:26 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New 3000GT?
Yea they do. I saw it at the Seattle Auto Show last year. Its an
Eclipse
stretched out a bit with some turbo motor and a lot of curves and
grooves.
Just like the 2000 Eclipse. From memory I think it was a V6 with
around
250HP, FWD. I thought it was lame. Talked to someone whom claimed to
be one
of the designers and gave her a piece of my mind on this excuse for a
car as
the replacement to the 3000GT :)
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 7:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: New 3000GT?
I've been looking all over for news of a new 3000GT, or at least something
to
fill the void left by the car in the Mitsubishi lineup.
With the 350Z out, the RX-8 comin up, an updated NSX,and a new Supra
bout a
year away, where is Mitsu in all of this. Do they at leas have a
concept
goin
out?
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 23:22:00 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
'99 Front end conversion
What about the active aero? Do they just remove the front dam, or
do
they have to replace it with something else.
Alex.
'95VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: '99 Front end conversion
> The 99 uses different headlights, and they are the
> most
expensive part, list is nearly $800 each...
> The existing headlights and
sidelights do not fit the
> 99 bumper, but the 2nd gen hood is the
same.
The '94-98 headlights will work with the '99 front bumper - only
the
corner marker lights are different. I've seen it done, and plan on
doing it
that way if I replace the front on my car. The $1600 for
headlights only gets
you the bulgey projector circles on the front lens and
the black background
color - nothing more.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 23:26:21 -0500
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
I have in front of me the service manual for the 92 Stealth. Valve
opening
temp SOHC 180F 82C DOHC 170F 76.5C . Full opening temp of thermostat
SOHC
203F 95C DOHC 194F 90C (sec 7-2 "Service Specifications")
In my
opinion, if those are the temps that the engine was designed to
operate at,
then I would leave it at that.
David Thrower
92 Stealth R/T
TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:24:06 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cooler Thermostat question
>From a purely thermodynamic point of view higher temps and
higher
compression ratios result in higher engine efficiency. The reality ,
is of
course, not so simple.
Because of the inability to get a stock thermostat I have one that
is
15º cooler --- I've noticed no difference in performance under
any
conditions.
Jim
berry
===================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AINut" <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cooler Thermostat
question
> Who says the LOWERing the temps makes the engine have more
performance? I have
> always heard that higher engine temps increase
fuel efficiency and performance.
>
> AI Nut
> <still hating
having to mangle the reply box>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:58:32 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
locked and stripped lug nut
That was very useful. I now have my wheels off, getting checked
for
damage... and my car is on its way back to the road. Hopefully I'll
be
cruising again soon (and staying away from mountain passes) :O
Thanks a
lot Erik.
- -------------------------->
"Erik G." wrote:
Riyan,
Here's the trick:
<<<<cut>>>>
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 21:24:09 -0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: The new Mazda RX-8
Don't forget we're getting the wimpy engine too, not the one tested
in
the autoweek issue.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt
Sent: Tuesday,
November 26, 2002 9:44 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: The new Mazda RX-8
Only a 3-rotor would save this design.
It's a slap in the face to any
previous RXn Owner.
It's not even close to a 'European' sports sedan.
It was supposed to be 270 HP. It probably drives a little sporty,
but
not enough to fool anyone. The price may get a few buyers to settle
for
this. The review lived right up to my original fears when they
announced
this.
Kurt
Prior RX3 / RX7 owner, wondering where the zoom-zoom went.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Ludwig
[mailto:yiotta@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 9:15
AM
Subject: Team3S: The new Mazda RX-8
Motorweeks cover story this week is the new Mazda
RX-8, anyone else see
it?
Not sure what to make of this thing yet, I halfway
like the design,
but the rear mini-suicide doors on a sportscar? June
2003 $30,000 base price
1.3-liter 247hp Rotary 95th percentile male back
seat... (a family
sedan/sports car?) pillar less doors... innovative RWD,
6 speed 3000 pounds
0-60 6.0(est) no 1/4 mi time for us...
------------------------------
Ya, didn't you hear, they're coming out with a fourth SUV!! yay.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 00:53:11 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: First I thought it was oil but it is actually coolant.
When I first started up my car 92' Stealth SOHC, it leaked a lot
of
something from the drivers side of the engine bay. At first I thought it
was
oil. I drove to class anyway because it seemed to run fine. Left my car
at
the subway station for about 6 hours. When I came back to it I started it
up
and went to take a look. Same spot large puddle of what seems to be
coolant.
Smelt funny and was green. I don't know why I didn't notice it the
first
time. I don't know if that puddle leaked over the 6 hours to sprayed
out when
I started it up. I think it almost sprayed out since when I went to
look,
the puddle was creeping toward me. I let it run for a bit and it seems
to
stop. I got home ok, which was a good 60km. It didn't overheat or
anything.
Anyone know if there is a coolant line around this area that could
be
leaking and why would it stop leaking.
Sorry it is out of focus. It was taken at night and the camera can't
focus
in the dark.
What the hell is the think on the left. And the * is where the leak was.
You
can see the moist spot still. Not dripping anymore thought after my
60km
ride home.
Newbie owner of the car that *looks* fast. Oh well, I will get a TT when
I
can afford it.
Jason
I had trouble with my friends Pathfinder. It has 240 hp to match
it's
weight. Oh well :(
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 00:29:05 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
First I thought it was oil but it is actually coolant.
Jason-
That would most likely be your water pump gasket leaking. When was the
60k
service last done on your car? On our cars, the 60k isn't just a
thorough
inspection or some kind of excuse for the dealer to charge you $1200
for a
smile, a handshake, and a free bottle of water. Dig up your service
records
and try to figure out this info. Sure, you can check hoses, freeze
plugs,
and such. But your symptoms are exactly how a leaky water pump gasket
acts.
Here is my attempt at an explanation:
While you're driving, the coolant is in motion through the engine and
the
pressure remains relatively constant after the engine has warmed up
to
operating temperature. This motion and the fact that the pressure
is
constant aids in keeping the coolant from leaking at the water pump
gasket.
Also, since you're driving, the coolant that does leak will run along
the
frame of the car and be less obvious.
Now, in your case (as well as mine before I did my 60k service):
The
coolant leaks out after you stop because the pressure is released. As
the
coolant pressure is released, it follows the "easiest way out" which
happens
to be the hole in your water pump gasket.
If a thorough inspection of your cooling system (minus the water pump)
leads
to no leaks, then you will need to replace the water pump now (it comes
with
the gasket). Even if your 60k service was done recently, your might as
well
change the timing belt while you're that far in the engine.
Regarding your SOHC stealth...
Looks are a good start. It might turn out to be a fun autocross car
if
you're into that. Sure, it doesn't exactly fit the profile of autocross
but
it sure fits better than drag I'd say. Just cuz' you're not fast it
doesn't
mean you can't have fun. Oh yeah, and learn how to drive your car
well.
Don't slam into the mountains like I did.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
...BTW I popped on the spare tire and drove
her tonight.
seems to run ok enough to make it to an alignment shop and find
any
suspension damage.
>>signs of the mountain pass mod are
diminishing :)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 09:43:40 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New 3000GT?
Since Daimler-Chrysler is the major shareholder of Mitsubishi Motors Corp.
the car line is pretty fixed for the different areas. They concentrate in
the SUV and smaller vehicle area as well as on the smaller transporters
like the L300 as this market is successful and create value. This is not
the case for the sports car segments and therefore no FTO nor Eclipse
found their way to Europe. In this market they are a niche player for sure.
It is also not yet decided if the Z and RX-8 will ever see Europe
officially. It is very unlikely that Mitsu will come up with something we
really like :-( They also do not import a lot of the EVO's as they are
expensive in turn what you get. And who wants that boxy family Subaru
design anyways ... ???
------------------------------
Check the water pump. If you have more than 75K miles, that's probably it.
One symptom of a water pump leak is that you can't find the source under
the car. That's cuz it's leaking out of the timing case cover.
Gotta fix it, too, because coolant gets on the timing belt and ruins
it.
This is the big reason why it's a good idea to replace the water pump
when doing the 60K timing belt replacement.
Yer mechanic can doublecheck by doing a pressure test.
You are looking
at several hundred dollars in repairs.
Better hope it's something else.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 08:51:22 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
I think the real reason for the lower thermostats in the Fieros is
to
try to prevent engine fires!
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 9:35
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
I can tell you that the Fiero guys (which I am now one of) also like
to
change out their 195 deg thermostats with a 160 deg thermostat. Here
is
what it says on one web site selling the 160s:
"A new 160 degree thermostat will lower the engine temperature to give
a
cooler air charge for better running conditions and increased HP.
The
Fiero engine has always run hot, install a 160 thermostat and notice
better
performance at lower temperatures."
I don't buy it. There are better ways to lower the intake charge
than
to alter the engine operating temperature. Such as moving the
intake or
insulating the exhaust. On our 3S cars, this should not be as
big a
deal. The TTs have intercoolers and the NAs don't have their intake
close to
the exhaust like on the Fiero and other GM cars. I'm going to
stick with
the stock thermostat myself.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 08:53:37 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First I thought it was oil but it is actually coolant.
Uh oh. Might be the water pump.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 08:31:39 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First I thought it was oil but it is actually coolant.
The * looks like where the water pump leakage would come out. The
"What's this" looks like the drain hose for the radiator. If the
radiator drain is not closed, coolant will come out of that tube.
Reach up there, follow the tube with your hand and check to see if the drain
valve is shut.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Planet
[mailto:planet.j@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 11:53
PM
Subject: Team3S: First I thought it was oil but it is actually
coolant.
Sorry it is out of focus. It was taken at night and the camera can't
focus
in the dark.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#10
**************************************
