Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, November 24
2002 Volume 02 : Number 008
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Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 22:24:47 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Ticking behind dash gauge pod
It may also be something else ... I have a ticking like that that happens
when I press either the brake or the gas pedals... I've yet to trace it
down. It's not the ecu, because the car doesn't stall, there's no loss of
power...
Any ideas?
Alex
95 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
Sent: Saturday,
November 23, 2002 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge
pod
OK, I guess I'll state the obvious. A person can eliminate the solenoids on
the firewall as the source of the noise by simply disconnecting the
electrical connector for each (one at a time, of course). Start with the BC
solenoid.
The boost control solenoid made annoying ticking noises (like described
earlier) on my '92 Stealth. I removed it because it wasn't being used (I use
an EVC IV) and plugged the hose between it and the intake hose to the rear
turbo. No more ticking (of that sort).
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking
behind dash gauge pod
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:29:42 -0800
From: Jim
Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
I think you're going way out on the wrong limb here suspecting the ECU.
David Thrower gave the correct answer some time ago: the evaporative
emission purge solenoid doing what it's supposed to do. It's mounted on
the firewall next to the turbo waste-gate solenoid--directly behind the
gauge pod. I hear it every day when I start up and pull out of the driveway. It
has always annoyed me!
Spend $5 on a mechanic's stethoscope and you can easily prove it to
yourself.
Why does the solenoid click on and off so rapidly? Good question--but the
ECU is apparently telling it to based on barometric pressure, intake air
temperature, intake air volume, and coolant temperature (according to the
service manual).
- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 01:39:09 -0800
From: "MM3 Phillips, J" <
phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost gage maxes out ( 15 Psi ). Questioning turbos ( stock or no t
)
I just bought my 1991 3000GT VR4. I am questioning whether the turbos
are stock or not ( I didn't ask when I bought it ). At high engine
loads the boost gage maxes out ( at 15 PSI ). Is this gage supposed
to max out? Since the gage is maxing out, should I buy a new gage with a
greater range? And how can I tell if the turbos are stock?
Ryan Phillips
91 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 02:03:06 -0800
From: "MM3 Phillips, J" <
phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost gage maxes out ( 15 Psi ). Questioning turbos ( stock or no t
)
I just bought my 1991 3000GT VR4. I am questioning whether the turbos
are stock or not ( I didn't ask when I bought it ). At high engine
loads the boost gage maxes out ( at 15 PSI ). Is this gage supposed
to max out? Since the gage is maxing out, should I buy a new gage with a
greater range? And how can I tell if the turbos are stock?
Ryan Phillips
91 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 03:10:45 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Boost gage maxes out ( 15 Psi ). Questioning turbos ( stock or not
)
If you are talking about the stock boost gauge, it has nothing to do with
boost. It should be labeled "engine load" or something... If you do have
aftermarket gauge that reads real pressure, you need to check your boost
control system NOW! Running that type of boost on a stock fuel system is
going to cost you an engine VERY fast. If you haven't melted/broken/cracked
something already, you need to stop NOW (unless you know what you are
doing and have the proper upgrades).
To answer your question more directly, stock turbos will peak at 20-22 PSI
for a split second, they can hold 15PSI for about 2000 RPM. That pressure
does bleed off very fast soon afterwards because stock turbos cannot keep
up with engine demand, hence people get bigger ones to hold more boost to
redline. Stock turbos will only hold 7-8 PSI at redline.
On a stock fuel system you should not go above 13PSI peak. Some people get
away with 14-14.5 but I would strongly suggest against it.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: MM3 Phillips, J
Sent: Sunday,
November 24, 2002 1:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: Boost gage maxes out ( 15 Psi ).
Questioning turbos ( stock or not )
I just bought my 1991 3000GT VR4. I am questioning whether the turbos
are stock or not ( I didn't ask when I bought it ). At high engine
loads the boost gage maxes out ( at 15 PSI ). Is this gage supposed
to max out? Since the gage is maxing out, should I buy a new gage with a
greater range? And how can I tell if the turbos are stock?
Ryan Phillips
91 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:07:59 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
Thanks for the responses guys!
But the ticking happens when
the car is not moving, like sitting in
the driveway warming up.
I am running the stock boost solenoid.
My 93 VR4 is totally stock with 30K on the clock.
Thanks for the emails, but....... I'm still ticking! LOL
Vinny
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff & Debby Kelley <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Date:
Thursday, November 21, 2002 8:51 pm
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking behind dash
gauge pod
> I'm with you, My last car's speedo ticked all the time.
> At
real slow speeds sounded really loud!
> Jeff
> 93 Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:59:46 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
Hey Jim,
Thanks for the info! I hope that is the real issue.
I would hate for
it to be my ECU.
I will take a look at it now.
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:57:09 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
Hey Doug,
Thanks for the email, I think it may be my ECU. However
my VR4 runs
fine when I hear the ticking or not. Maybe it's not that
bad yet? I
have noticed that my idle seems to be a bit high when I
pull to t
traffic light sometimes.
Anyway IS there anyone on the list
here that I can send my ECU to
change out the CAPS?
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:10:05 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Boost gage maxes out ( 15 Psi ). Questioning turbos ( stock or not )
A few things:
- -The stock boost gage is not accurate. I could peg it at 15psi while
running
6.7psi on stock turbos and fueling with an open intake and
exhaust.
- -15psi peak on stock (9b) turbos and fuel system has been proven to be
the
edge of what's considered safe on 91+ octane. I don't know anyone off
hand
who's popped a motor in that configuration. Like I said...it's the edge
but
it is still safe.
- - Stock turbos only hold 7-8psi? Maybe with a boost leak. Get a good
boost
controller then seal up your intercooler piping & you should be
able to hold
11-12.5psi to redline. My car had no problem holding 12.3psi to
7100rpm with
the original turbos.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Sent: Sunday,
November 24, 2002 4:10 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost gage maxes out ( 15 Psi
). Questioning turbos
(stock or not )
> If you are talking about the stock boost gauge, it has nothing to do
with
> boost. It should be labeled "engine load" or something... If you do
have
> aftermarket gauge that reads real pressure, you need to check your
boost
> control system NOW! Running that type of boost on a stock fuel
system is
> going to cost you an engine VERY fast. If you haven't
melted/broken/cracked
> something already, you need to stop NOW (unless
you know what you are doing
> and have the proper
upgrades).
>
> To answer your question more directly, stock turbos
will peak at 20-22 PSI
> for a split second, they can hold 15PSI for about
2000 RPM. That pressure
> does bleed off very fast soon afterwards because
stock turbos cannot keep
> up with engine demand, hence people get bigger
ones to hold more boost to
> redline. Stock turbos will only hold 7-8 PSI
at redline.
>
> On a stock fuel system you should not go above 13PSI
peak. Some people get
> away with 14-14.5 but I would strongly suggest
against it.
>
> Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 14:32:14 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: How to
remove fuse block?
Can anyone tell me how to remove the fuse block that sits just aft/above
the
clutch pedal? I removed the one nut on the bottom of the block that is
easily
accessible but there is still some kind of attachment at the top of
the block
I can't access due to all the wires that plug into it.
I'm guessing the entire block should detach and drop down so you can detach
all the wires. Do I need to remove the lower dash to do this?
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
'91 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:49:09 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Cooler Thermostat question
Hey Guys,
I hate to be the new guy asking all the
questions but in my Impala Club
most of use have done the basic mods of
Intake, exhaust, rear gears and a
cooler thermostat. For the thermostat
in the Impala we switched from a 180
degree thermo to a 160 degree
thermo. To take advantage of this we had to
reprogram the ECU to have
the fans come on at a lower temp.
Is this type of mod done with the VR4/Stealth?
Thanks
Vinny
96 Impala SS
93 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 00:06:59 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Figured
out fuse block
I figured out how to get the fuse block out of the car. This is the fuse
block just to the left and rear of the clutch pedal.
First remove all wiring harness plugs that you can get to. I could only get
a
few on the front and aft. Note that the block acts as a mount point for
two
sets of male/female plugs that are just secured to the plastic housing
of the
fuse block. These two sets of plugs are on the exposed side of the
block
facing the steering wheel. Pull these plugs aft and they will detach.
I think
the diagnostics port is also typically attached to the fuse block -
mine had
been ripped off the block by some ham-fisted idiot tech.
The bottom of the block is secured with a nut. The top is held in place
with
a snap-latch on the top aft of the block. This latch is really hard to
get
to. IF you can get your had up far enough to reach this latch, you will
pull
down on a tab while pulling the block towards the aft of the car. Once
the
block is pulled aft far enough it will drop down and give you access to
all
the wiring harnesses that are still plugged into the block.
If you can't get to this snap-latch on the top aft of the block you will
need
to remove the lower dash on either side of the steering column. This is
actually quite easy. Two screws on the bottom of the dash and two more
screws
hidden behind switch clusters on either side of the steering wheel
(one is
the dash light dimmer/power mirror console, the other is the active
exhaust/rear window wiper console). Use a small flat edge screwdriver to
detach the switch clusters.
Once you have the lower dash removed you can view (with a flashlight) the
snap-latch on the top aft of the fuse block through a small gap beside the
front driver side door jam. Get a piece of coat-hangar wire and flatten one
end with a hammer or file so that it looks like the end of a flat edge
screwdriver. Insert this "flat edge" into the snap-latch and twist the wire
to unlock the snap-latch. While holding the snap-latch open with one hand,
reach under the dash and pull the top of the fuse block aft until it clears
and you can pull it down. Note that there are many wire bundles in this area
and some of them may need to be moved out of the way to allow the fuse block
to move aft.
The fuse block can be split open to expose the fuse contacts. I had
intermittent contact on the fuse for the open-door-warning-buzzer/dome-light
circuit. This caused a maddening situation where the door warning buzzer
would sound continuously after about 10 minutes. Several months ago I had
been trying to troubleshoot a faulty doorlock switch and had run a ground
wire into this fuse receptacle in the fuse block. Apparently I damaged the
fuse contacts when I did this. I still don't have proper operation on the
driver side doorlock switch but at least everything else works again!
Paul Klusman
'91 VR4
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#8
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