Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, November 23 2002 Volume
02 : Number 007
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey guys I was wondering where is the best place with best deal on a
starter
for a 92 VR4? Thanks for any and all info in
advance.
James
99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 23:38:03 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
starter question
Try jagworks.com, I know their alternator prices for our cars is
good.
> Hey guys I was wondering where is the best place with best deal on a
starter
> for a 92 VR4? Thanks for any and all info in
advance.
>
>
James
> 99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 10:38:17 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
hesitation - bad coolant temp sensor?
you want to make sure that you're buying the coolant temp sensor that
reports to the ECU. I believe there is only one that reports to ECU. There
are others for the purpose of cycling radiator+A/C fans and such, but the
ECU sensor is what you need. Also, a hesitation could be many other
things:
fouled plugs
bad wires
(non-TT models: corroded distributor
rotor+cap)
low fuel pressure (in my case)
gummed up injector(s)
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Rockville Mitsu shows this as P/N MD313327 for $118.46
Dave
Thrower
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 19:50:40 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: hesitation - bad coolant temp sensor?
If that mechanic had the right computer, he would be able to tell if he
sees the correct coolant temperature or not. I have never thought of the
bad temp sensor theory. But those mechanics could be inventive, you
know.
I think resistance specifications for that temp sensor are available in the
manual. It does not have any properties other than the resistance. Check
it.
Philip
At 13:38 11/22/2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
>you want to make sure
that you're buying the coolant temp sensor that
>reports to the ECU. I
believe there is only one that reports to ECU.
>There are others for the
purpose of cycling radiator+A/C fans and such,
>but the ECU sensor is
what you need. Also, a hesitation could be many
>other
things:
>
>fouled plugs
>bad wires
>(non-TT models:
corroded distributor rotor+cap)
>low fuel pressure (in my
case)
>gummed up injector(s)
>
>Riyan
>93 stealth rt
tt
------------------------------
Partznet.com also shows P/N MD313327 at $125.67
Dave Thrower
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 19:59:51 EST
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Help-
Need ABS Pump
I have a 1991 Stealth RT with ABS and need to replace the ABS pump.
If
anyone out there has one I am interested in buying it if it is
working. I am
also interested in all 4 struts for the electronically
controlled suspension
if anyone has a set that is not leaking that will fit
on my car as well.
Thanks
Merrisa
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 20:27:21 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: starter question
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
I got a lifetime alternator at Kragen for less than half the dealer
price.
Maybe they have starters too.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 20:41:24 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: starter question
Dang, for that price from a dealer, buy two!
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Thrower
[mailto:repairerr@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2002 4:47
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: starter question
Rockville Mitsu shows this as P/N MD313327 for $118.46
Dave
Thrower
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 01:36:55 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: fuel
pressure sensor seal: here's what I did
As a recap, the first time I put two layers of teflon tape at the mating
points, the teflon at those mating points had completely rotted out and
that is where the fuel started to leak. The second time, I replaced two of
the mating points with about 3 to 4 layers of teflon tape. It also began
to rot out, but it held up slightly better.
To amuse myself, I put a strip of teflon tape in some fuel and I watched it
slowly disappear :O Hope that dissolved teflon tape didn't hurt my
injectors any.
Well, after seeing that ... I decided to take everything apart and start
over.
I didn't see any cracks in the fittings, and the threads looked okay. But
I'm not counting on my naked eye. I put permatex thread sealant on every
single mating point. I've heard from many places that it doesn't break
down with fuel. I'm leaving a desk fan on, blowing on the fitting all of
tonight to dry it. I will wipe off the excess sealant tomorrow morning. Then
I'll mix some JB weld and basically saturate the exposed threads around
the mating points with that. (JB weld also resists fuel--many people have
successfully patched fuel tanks with it). I'll no longer have the choice
of taking the fitting apart, ever. But like Jeff says, why would I need
to? My top priority is finishing this up once and for all. I really don't want
to touch this thing again, because it's a pain to take off my strut bar,
battery hold-down, battery, and windshield washer assembly just to get to
the little fuel fitting. And though the leak is small, I don't want to
risk a fire in my engine bay just because I was slightly careless.
The JB Weld will cure by Sunday morning. I'll let everyone know how it
goes, so that anyone who's installing FP sensors can keep this idea in
mind. Also, for others that will be going down this road in the near
future, soldering may be a good method too, assuming the sensor can handle
high temperatures. Thanks for the suggestion Jeff.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 12:09:22 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Can We
Create AEM EMS Help Team?
Can We Create an AEM Help Team?
I finally read through the whole 69
pages of the AEM Computer (WHEEEEW!) I still don't see plain
plug&play "instructions" on how to plug it, the FJO sensor (aren't there
more wires to the FJO than to the AEM?? How do you "piggyback" the
FJO into the AEM?); of all the VARIOUS places "nitrous" is referenced,
which are the "real ones needed"? Where do you hook in the GM Map sensor
etc? Splice into wires? Which?
I am NOT a computer wonk but can operate computers that have clear
instructions; I can do basic wiring, splice/soldering; know what
solenoids, resistors, etc are; and I know somewhat of tuning :) etc. I
KNOW the "AEM Install" wheel has been invented already...help!
SO, since we ARE a mutual help group and all, could I request any of you
willing to occasionally "talk me through" installation and questions on
getting my 94 VR4 RUNNING with the AEM, FJO, MAP sensor, etc? Maybe those
willing could email me your names/phone numbers :) and I'll send you
mine, to eventually form a "panel of experts", and someday I/we'd be able to
hopefully return the favor in the future with regard to tuning "on the
edge", with nitrous etc...I want to push the envelope as usual. I am
a privateer so have no special "ins" with AEM, as most of us don't.
Ideally we'd all post numbers publicly and let our experiences build on each
others FASTEST but public phone # stuff can be iffy, so I'm trying to
start here, privately.
I know there is the AEM website but LIKE THE AEM INSTRUCTIONS there is WAY
MORE info there, the "signal to noise" is so high that finding your actual
help can be hard IMO. Thanks for your consideration either way, Jack
Tertadian email
xwing@wi.rr.com
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: ECU replacement - AEM EMS?
> After reading all this, if
you're twitching and drooling with
> excitement
and unable to
concentrate on your job anymore, then go get it. If you find yourself
hesitant or frightened or unsure, then stick with the piggyback
controllers.
> The AEM is the holy grail of engine tuning, but it's
dangerous if you
don't use it properly. Remember in Indiana Jones and
the Last Crusade, when the Nazi drank from the wrong cup? You can do
the same thing to your engine with the AEM.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 11:48:47 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
The sound could be your ECU. A ticking sound from the dash is one of
the symptoms of bad caps. This usually accompanied by engine
stalling or loss of power during the noise.
Get a piece of an old hose and see if you can isolate exactly where the
sound is coming from. This could lead you to the exact component
that is bad. It isn't a very high tech or fancy way to find the
problem but it works.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 12:06:57 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Ticking behind dash gauge pod
hmm... so what happens if you have your fuel pump resistor bypassed &
FP hotwired? might make it harder to tell since the fuel pump relay is
bypassed huh? my car is 93. clearly over the 7 year mark. but if something
could be up with my capacitors, I'd much rather find it before it becomes
an apparent problem. I do have money, sure... but not money to burn on an ECU! I
hear the same tick behind my dash gauge pod (in addition to lifter
tick...ugh!), but since the tick is so frequent esp. on cold start, I
never pay attention to the car's performance as the tick comes and goes. I
will disconnect the boost solenoid since I have boostvalve MBC anyway. If the
tick doesn't go away, I may do the ECU cap replacement as preventative
maintenance.
Riyan
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:29:42 -0800
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
I think you're going way out on the wrong limb here suspecting the ECU.
David Thrower gave the correct answer some time ago: the evaporative
emission purge solenoid doing what it's supposed to do. It's mounted on
the firewall next to the turbo waste-gate solenoid--directly behind the
gauge pod. I hear it every day when I start up and pull out of the driveway. It
has always annoyed me!
Spend $5 on a mechanic's stethoscope and you can easily prove it to
yourself.
Why does the solenoid click on and off so rapidly? Good question--but the
ECU is apparently telling it to based on barometric pressure, intake air
temperature, intake air volume, and coolant temperature (according to the
service manual).
- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink
> The sound could be your ECU. A ticking sound from the dash is
one of
> the symptoms of bad caps. This usually accompanied by
engine stalling
> or loss of power during the noise.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 22:26:34 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
OK, I guess I'll state the obvious. A person can eliminate the solenoids on
the firewall as the source of the noise by simply disconnecting the
electrical connector for each (one at a time, of course). Start with the BC
solenoid.
The boost control solenoid made annoying ticking noises (like described
earlier) on my '92 Stealth. I removed it because it wasn't being used (I use
an EVC IV) and plugged the hose between it and the intake hose to the rear
turbo. No more ticking (of that sort).
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking
behind dash gauge pod
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:29:42 -0800
From: Jim
Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
I think you're going way out on the wrong limb here suspecting the ECU.
David Thrower gave the correct answer some time ago: the evaporative
emission purge solenoid doing what it's supposed to do. It's mounted on
the firewall next to the turbo waste-gate solenoid--directly behind the
gauge pod. I hear it every day when I start up and pull out of the driveway. It
has always annoyed me!
Spend $5 on a mechanic's stethoscope and you can easily prove it to
yourself.
Why does the solenoid click on and off so rapidly? Good question--but the
ECU is apparently telling it to based on barometric pressure, intake air
temperature, intake air volume, and coolant temperature (according to the
service manual).
- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:00:16 -0500
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Fog lights in Canada
This question is mainly for Canadians. I'm aware that the fog lights on a
92 stealth in Canada are the day time running lights. Here is my problem.
When the head lights are off, the fog lights are on (day time running
lights). And when I turn on the headlights(high or low beams) the fog
lights go off. The button on the dash to turn on the fog lights doesn't seem to
work. I press it and nothing happens. I know the button wont do anything
when the headlights are off because the fog lights are already on. But
when I turn the headlights on, and turn on the fog lights. They don't go
on. Is this normal? A button on the dash that doesn't do anything because
it was made for the U.S. Anyone else with a Canadian model let me know if they
can turn on their fog lights when the headlights are on.
I know this was really confusing but I can't explain it any other
way.
Thanks
Jason
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#7
*************************************