Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, November 20 2002 Volume 02 : Number
004
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 09:06:19 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: better: 14k mile '91 coils, or 80k mile '99 coils, same for
driveshaft
do these parts get worse with age, or use, or what exactly? I realize
that the parts are different, but suppose they are the same, which one
would be the better purchase? Do u-joints get worse over time, or
over mileage, etc
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:17:45 -0500
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Water pump
You're superstitious and need to seek mental health care....
;o)
Similar to a typical exchange between me and 'er indoors:
Me: "Call me stupid, but........"
Her: "Stupid Butt"
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
Sent: Monday, November
18, 2002 2:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Water pump
So my water pump started showing signs of leaking for the very first time,
IMMEDIATELY AFTER DOING AN OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!! My cousin was in a
different town with a different vehicle (Chevy truck), changed the oil,
and the water pump started leaking. Seems to be a rash of this going
around.
Am I crazy or does changing your oil kill your water pump? Someone please
tell me I'm superstitious and need to seek mental health care... I'm
baffled at these coincidences...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:27:40 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: dashpot inspection
looking for my never-ending idling problems, I have arrived at the dashpot
...
in section 13-144, it says:
Dash pot inspection <turbo>
(1)
Check the dash pot diaphragm for damage. First, push up the rod fully and
closing tightly the nipple with a finger, release the rod. The
diaphragm is intact if the rod does not return to then initial position
while the nipple is held closed with a finger. If the rod returns,
the diaphragm is broken. Replace the dashpot.
Ok, I do not see what "rod" it is talking about. Is it talking about
the SAS screw? Also, is the "nipple" it is referring to, the
connection that the vacuum line goes on that leads to the vacuum
valve?
The pics in the manual show the dashpot off the car ... is this inspection
valid with the dashpot on the car?
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:34:38 -0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A/F Ratio with post-cat O2 Sensor
Russell, et al.,
We were talking a while ago about A/F ratio, and
you mentioned that the load bearing AWD dynos tend to read A/F 1.5 lower
than they do on the street. I.e. I'm running 12.0 on the dyno and on
the street I may be running 13 or 13.5. These numbers will be skewed based
on the cat. In my case, I have the main cat (original), but have
removed both pre-cats. So any idea how this might affect the reading
of the dyno post-cat O2 sensor?
TIA,
geis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:39:47 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: A/F Ratio with post-cat O2 Sensor
Truthfully I am not sure, every car I have ever dealt with has been "non
compliant" so I have no experience what a cat will do to the A/F. I
want to say based on what a cat is supposed to due it will actually make
the A/F ratio look lower.... Anyone with information to the
contrary?
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geisel, Brian
[mailto:brian.geisel@hp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 2:35
PM
Subject: A/F Ratio with post-cat O2 Sensor
Russell, et al.,
We were talking a while ago about A/F ratio, and
you mentioned that the load bearing AWD dynos tend to read A/F 1.5 lower
than they do on the street. I.e. I'm running 12.0 on the dyno and on
the street I may be running 13 or 13.5. These numbers will be skewed based
on the cat. In my case, I have the main cat (original), but have
removed both pre-cats. So any idea how this might affect the reading
of the dyno post-cat O2 sensor?
TIA,
geis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:42:51 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: A/F Ratio with post-cat O2 Sensor
As an addendum to this, will Adrenalin MS let you remove the exhaust and
main cat and just hook the sensor at the end of the stock D/P. That
may lead to a revelation as to why you car doesn't feel right.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent: Tuesday,
November 19, 2002 2:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: A/F Ratio with post-cat O2
Sensor
Truthfully I am not sure, every car I have ever dealt with has been "non
compliant" so I have no experience what a cat will do to the A/F. I
want to say based on what a cat is supposed to due it will actually make
the A/F ratio look lower.... Anyone with information to the
contrary?
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:49:52 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: dashpot inspection
Bill, the dashpot is the little flying saucer looking thing mounted on the
throttle body that has a vacuum hose connected to it. On the
opposite side of the vacuum hose, there is a plunger. Take the
vacuum hose off, push the plunger in with your finger, then block the part where
the vacuum hose connects with your finger. The plunger should stay
in. If it doesn't, the dashpot is defective.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
[mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 1:28
PM
Subject: Team3S: dashpot inspection
looking for my never-ending idling problems, I have arrived at the dashpot
...
in section 13-144, it says:
Dash pot inspection <turbo>
(1)
Check the dash pot diaphragm for damage. First, push up the rod fully and
closing tightly the nipple with a finger, release the rod. The
diaphragm is intact if the rod does not return to then initial position
while the nipple is held closed with a finger. If the rod returns,
the diaphragm is broken. Replace the dashpot.
Ok, I do not see what "rod" it is talking about. Is it talking about
the SAS screw? Also, is the "nipple" it is referring to, the
connection that the vacuum line goes on that leads to the vacuum
valve?
The pics in the manual show the dashpot off the car ... is this inspection
valid with the dashpot on the car?
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:38:25 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Borla, K&N Intake and BOV
Hey Guys,
I am considering doing the K&N intake,
the Borla exhaust and a aftermarket BOV.
What kind of gains should I expect from my stock 93 VR4?
What does a
AFTERMARKET BOV do for me over stock?
Is the BOV useless unless I use a boost
controller?
Where is everyone buying their products from? Cheapest prices?
Thanks
Vinny
93 VR4 Stock
96 Impala SS - not so stock
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:50:06 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
Hey Guys,
Me again sorry. but I have noticed
that when I first start my 93 VR4 up I hear a rather noticeable
ticking/clicking behind the dash, directly behind the 3 gauge pod on the center
dash. It seems like it goes away after it warms up but I really
can't tell while driving with all that noise.
It
doesn't sound like lifter tick and I do NOT have
any
accessories(radio/heater) on when I hear it.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:54:00 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ticking behind dash gauge pod
Its lifter tick on the back side of the motor.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:56:31 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Borla, K&N Intake and BOV
KN +10-15
Exhaust +20/20+ (I'm not exactly sure on this one)
If your bov is working properly (and you're not getting the infamous "hoot
owl") then the only reason to get an aftermarket one would be for RICE!!!
;)
Joking aside - the stock bov doesn't hold too well over stock boost levels,
and starts leaking. Since you're not getting a boost controller, I
wouldn't recommend it. Frankly some of the more expensive BOVs cost pretty
close to what a boost controller would cost, and you get a lot more bang
for your buck with that - I mean that's the gateway into high hp mods.
Hope this helps,
Alex.
'95 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vinny
Sent: Tuesday, November 19,
2002 3:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: Borla, K&N Intake and BOV
Hey Guys,
I am considering doing the K&N intake,
the Borla exhaust and a aftermarket BOV.
What kind of gains should I expect from my stock 93 VR4?
What does a
AFTERMARKET BOV do for me over stock?
Is the BOV useless unless I use a boost
controller?
Where is everyone buying their products from? Cheapest prices?
Thanks
Vinny
93 VR4 Stock
96 Impala SS - not so stock
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 20:59:23 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Ticking behind dash gauge pod
Could also be the boost solenoid.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 16:02:00 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Borla, K&N Intake and BOV
K&N is actually more like 7-10 (varies depending on ambient and under
hood
temps) An exhaust is about 17-20 but has another benefit, it is lighter
and allows you to remove the active exhaust motor.
A BC regardless of electronic or manual is also a good way to a very
expensive rebuild if not used/set up properly.
A good BOV is an investment to prevent you from over working the stock
turbos if you turn up the boost and the stocker starts leaking at
WOT.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:alex@kolosy.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 3:57 PM
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Borla, K&N Intake and BOV
KN +10-15
Exhaust +20/20+ (I'm not exactly sure on this one)
If your bov is working properly (and you're not getting the infamous "hoot
owl") then the only reason to get an aftermarket one would be for RICE!!!
;)
Joking aside - the stock bov doesn't hold too well over stock boost levels,
and starts leaking. Since you're not getting a boost controller, I
wouldn't recommend it. Frankly some of te more expensive BOVs cost pretty
close to what a boost controller would cost, and you get a lot more bang
for your buck with that - I mean that's the gateway into high hp mods.
Hope this helps,
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 17:01:00 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: dashpot inspection
ok, thanks, that was what I was trying to describe ... so the plunger
attaches to the SAS screw. I tried it about 20 times, and about 10
times the plunger didn't stay in. Once or twice it would come out
about half way and stop; most of the time (when it didn't stay in) it would
come out at varying speeds until it touched the throttle lever. This
is good news then that the dashpot is bad, as I have been searching for a
long time for something that was actually bad so I can fix it and fix my
idle problems.
thanks,
Bill
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 2:50
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: dashpot inspection
Bill, the dashpot is the little flying saucer looking thing mounted on the
throttle body that has a vacuum hose connected to it. On the
opposite side of the vacuum hose, there is a plunger. Take the
vacuum hose off, push the plunger in with your finger, then block the part where
the vacuum hose connects with your finger. The plunger should stay
in. If it doesn't, the dashpot is defective.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
[mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 1:28
PM
Subject: Team3S: dashpot inspection
looking for my never-ending idling problems, I have arrived at the dashpot
...
in section 13-144, it says:
Dash pot inspection <turbo>
(1)
Check the dash pot diaphragm for damage. First, push up the rod fully and
closing tightly the nipple with a finger, release the rod. The
diaphragm is intact if the rod does not return to then initial position
while the nipple is held closed with a finger. If the rod returns,
the diaphragm is broken. Replace the dashpot.
Ok, I do not see what "rod" it is talking about. Is it talking about
the SAS screw? Also, is the "nipple" it is referring to, the
connection that the vacuum line goes on that leads to the vacuum
valve?
The pics in the manual show the dashpot off the car ... is this inspection
valid with the dashpot on the car?
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 16:44:20 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Warm engine won't start
Sounds like a bad starter pickup, but I would not expect rocking to
cure.
Perhaps starter gear is binding in the flywheel? And rocking frees
it?
There should be a clutch interlock switch, maybe other interlock wiring to
check.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Mc Kibben
[mailto:mckibben@sugar-land.oilfield.slb.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002
11:13 AM
Subject: Team3S: Warm engine won't start
Hi guys,
I have a problem that at first occurred only every once in a
while, maybe once every 6 months, but now is happening almost daily on my
'93 Stealth (base model). The problem is the engine, after warm-up and
driving, and then sitting turned off, will not turn over next time I try
to start it. It doesn't even try to turn over. It may happen after sitting
for just a few minutes or several hours. My solution is to stick my foot
out the door with the car in gear and rock it back and forth a couple
times, and it fires right up. I thought it might be the battery not having
enough cranking power, but it checks out OK, and like I said, it will start
easily after a little rocking. Any ideas? Thanks, Bob
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Robert
McKibben
Senior Designer
Schlumberger Conveyance & Delivery
Center
555 Industrial, Sugar Land, TX. 77478
281-285-7763
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 16:34:21 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: help adjusting TPS please
Yes, you have the right screw. Not sure what SAS means. Basically, you want
to adjust so TPS indicates closed throttle at .65 mm or less.
The feeler gauge, usually a set of thin metal tabs .5 in by 3 in long
available at any parts store, can be anything to hold the throttle open a
set amount while you're checking voltages.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
[mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 11:20
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: help adjusting TPS please
I bought a new one and am installing it
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bedrock
[mailto:bedrock@attbi.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 12:18
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: help adjusting TPS please
Why are you adjusting it in the first place? did I miss a post on this? Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 137,000+
------------------------------
I was wondering how I would go about removing myself from your
e-mailings. As they are informative, I didn't realize I would be so
bombarded with these every day.
Thanks for your help!
Christine
------------------------------
And at the bottom of each Email you get is a URL.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:25:06 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Reverse Lights Still Off
I've been attempting to track down the problem with my reverse lights. I
have a manual 5 speed, '91 VR4. The bulbs and fuse are good. I can see the
reverse switch on the transmission. However, I have yet to get a good view
of the wiring. I'm wondering if anyone has had the switch go bad or the
wires break going into the connector. Also, I'm wondering if there is
easier access from below to the switch.
Thanks in advance.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 17:52:12 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: dashpot inspection
bah, $106 list, $80 plus shipping at mitsupartsdirect for that little pos
... oh well, guess I have to cough it up
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
Sent: Tuesday, November
19, 2002 5:01 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: dashpot inspection
ok, thanks, that was what I was trying to describe ... so the plunger
attaches to the SAS screw. I tried it about 20 times, and about 10
times the plunger didn't stay in. Once or twice it would come out
about half way and stop; most of the time (when it didn't stay in) it would
come out at varying speeds until it touched the throttle lever. This
is good news then that the dashpot is bad, as I have been searching for a
long time for something that was actually bad so I can fix it and fix my
idle problems.
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:23:58 +0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <
abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Restore additive
Hello:
Shortly after adding a can of Restore to the oil the oil pressure light
started coming at warm idle (92 r/t with ~110 miles). It took several
engine flushes to rinse it out.
Andrei Kryjevski.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 01:05:40 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Borla, K&N Intake and BOV
> K&N is actually more like 7-10 (varies depending on ambient
and
> underhood temps)
Possible
> An exhaust is about 17-20 but has another benefit, it is lighter and
> allows you to remove the active exhaust motor.
Russ, you don't have a dyno sheet do you ?? The truth is ... zero gain
unless boost is upped, and the precats, DP, Cat are gone. The weight is
the most gain.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 16:11:15 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warm engine won't start
When you turn the key, do you hear a relay "click"? If so, keep
trying to start the car. You'll hear the click each time you turn
the key to the start position, but eventually the car will start. My
car did this for a while, but only when warm. Sometimes I would have to
turn the key 20 or 30 times, but it always started. When I removed
my turbo timer the problem went away...but this coincided with cooler
weather so I'm not sure if it's actually gone.
This seems to be a
fairly common problem on our cars; I see lots of posts about this on
3si.org. If you hop on that message board, do a search for "click
start" and you'll find several threads. No definitive solution yet -
most attribute it to a sketchy electrical connection
somewhere.
- - Brian
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Mc Kibben
[mailto:mckibben@sugar-land.oilfield.slb.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002
11:13 AM
Subject: Team3S: Warm engine won't start
Hi guys,
I have a problem that at first occurred only every once in
a while, maybe once every 6 months, but now is happening almost daily on
my '93 Stealth (base model). The problem is the engine, after warm-up and
driving, and then sitting turned off, will not turn over next time I try
to start it. It doesn't even try to turn over. It may happen after sitting
for just a few minutes or several hours. My solution is to stick my foot
out the door with the car in gear and rock it back and forth a couple
times, and it fires right up. I thought it might be the battery not having
enough cranking power, but it checks out OK, and like I said, it will start
easily after a little rocking. Any ideas? Thanks, Bob
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 17:30:36 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
dyno charts (GTO UK)
Another interesting anomaly --- your presence in the car should not have an
effect. The only difference would be weight on the wheels --- you'd get a
little more traction because of the increased weight but that's all. 50 hp
more is a bunch -- a difference 5% or even 10% could be expected but 20%
seems excessive.
I still want an explanation on the drive train loss ranging from 80 HP to
160 HP for similar cars --- anybody care to step in ???
Jim Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Twin Turbo GTO" <
twinturbo.gto@btinternet.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
> As
an example, on the first run, my car measured around 240hp at the
>
engine peak !? On this run, I was next to the driver outside the car
> and everything appeared normal (boost at 1 bar etc). On the
second
> run, I sath RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 22:48:42 EST
From:
Rod2414738@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Team 3S: Lifter Tick GONE w/ 1 Can !!!
I've used Restore in the past on my normally aspirated cars and was
impressed
with the results. I just wish they'd correct their TV
commercials that show
the oil coming from the top of the cylinder to fill in
the scratches. You
don't have to understand engines very well to know
that is not where the oil
in the cylinder comes from unless you have
problems with your engine that
even Restore can't hope to fix. Maybe I
am not understanding the commercial
correctly.
- -Rod
'93 Stealth TT
> After further searching I found their corporate website.
>
> This is the FAQ section:
http://www.restoreusa.com/faqs.html>
> I'm not an expert on it or the whole theory on why it worked for
me
> or anything like that, I just know it works.
>
> -Erik
> '91 Stealth
------------------------------
Me too! My car had the lowest drivetrain losses, making it have the
2nd most power at the wheels, even though it was nearly 40hp down on the
highest flywheel power.
Simon Jones
'94 GTO (MR)
K&N, S/Steel Y-pipe
HKS D/pipe +
Super Drager, no Cats
Blitz DSBC @ 1.0 bar
ACT High Pressure Clutch
Big
Reds
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday,
November 20, 2002 1:30 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: dyno charts (GTO UK)
> Another interesting anomaly --- your presence in the car should not
> have an effect.
> The only difference would be weight on the
wheels --- you'd get a
> little more traction because of the increased
weight but that's
> all. 50 hp more is a bunch -- a difference 5% or even
10% could
> be expected but 20% seems excessive.
>
> I still
want an explanation on the drive train loss ranging from 80 HP
> to 160
HP for similar cars --- anybody care to step in
???
>
> Jim Berry
===================================================
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:35:54 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dyno charts (GTO UK)
You can even pack 10 people in that car on a dyno and it doesn't make any
difference, simply impossible. Slipping wheels due to a lower traction is
visible on the chart. Look at my dyno two years ago where a little step is
visible (winter tires, ouch)
It's possible that the cars have been run in different gears due to the
model years. But then the difference is compensated by the dyno if operated
or set up properly. Then the final output should be the same (with an up to
10% difference at the same rpm due to my experience). On my latest dyno
charts, two runs after each other showed a loss of 113 PS first and 106PS
afterwards. This is about 6%. But the final result is pretty much the same
(besides of the retarded timing) as also the power at the wheels
changed.
The other, very simple explanation is, that the drivetrain loss is recorded
at the rpm the top hp on the wheel is measured. This is different on all
cars. On the latest dyno session my car had the top power at 5660 rpm with
a drivetrain loss of 113 PS. One year before with less mods max power was
at 5450 rpm with a loss of 100 PS. Drawing the curve in the same function
up to the 5660 the loss results in around 106 PS what is again in the
range of the possible error or ambient influence. It is to be noted that
Jim's car on the dyno had the max power at 5680rpm with a loss of 107 PS.
It is therefore absolutely the same loss measured on a 5 and 6 speed. But
Mike's car was different as his max power was at 6230rpm with only a loss
of 105 PS. Extrapolating my dyno chart would result in a loss up about 122
PS what is a heavy difference, the biggest I have seen in the cars I
already had on the dyno.
In my personal opinion, this dyno seems to need an overhaul as the data is
not consistent. An up to 10% difference in drivetrain loss in between one
and another run is possible but no way a drivetrain loss of 160 is measured
on one and only 80 on the other cars. Looking at the dyno charts also tells
this, especially Ivans with too much resistance at the e-motors and the
resulting slip at the beginning. This chart is telling nothing. Also the
rise in drivetrain loss on many slips tells me that the cars are indeed
tested in different gears and some showed a little slip telling us that the
drums are old.
I have chosen another dyno now due to the lack of cooling in the one I
run the car as well as the fact it was getting older too and some
slipping appeared. Guys, better go to another shop the next time !!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:57:56 -0500
From: "Marven Lamarre" <
neoblackjack21@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: anyone ever heard of a magnetic pickup coil
Hello everyone,
I have been looking all over for a magnetic
pickup coil replacement that goes inside my distributor. I need it for my
1992 Dodge Stealth SOHC that has that previously mentioned shutting down
after warming up (usually during the colder months). If anyone knows where I
can find it or a reliable dealer or even an OEM number I can use for
searching it would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Sincerely,
Marven
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 07:14:42 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: anyone ever heard of a magnetic pickup coil
I'm not sure you can buy it separate from the distributor housing.
CAPS does not have a separate listing for it. It merely lists Part
No. MD619214, the entire distributor housing, which sells for $332.32 on
Partznet.com.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Marven Lamarre
[mailto:neoblackjack21@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 6:58
AM
Subject: Team3S: anyone ever heard of a magnetic pickup coil
Hello everyone,
I have been looking all over for a magnetic
pickup coil replacement that goes inside my distributor. I need it for my
1992 Dodge Stealth SOHC that has that previously mentioned shutting down
after warming up (usually during the colder months). If anyone knows where I
can find it or a reliable dealer or even an OEM number I can use for
searching it would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Sincerely,
Marven
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 07:51:37 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
anyone ever heard of a magnetic pickup coil
I ran into that same problem with a different car years ago, I had to buy a
$400+ distributor rather than a $10 pickup coil. Try getting a used
distributor from MS recycling and removing the part or using the new/used
distributor.
Jim
Berry
=====================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
November 20, 2002 4:14 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: anyone ever heard of a
magnetic pickup coil
> I'm not sure you can buy it separate from the distributor
housing.
> CAPS does not have a separate listing for it. It
merely lists Part
> No. MD619214, the entire distributor housing, which
sells for $332.32
> on Partznet.com.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#4
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