Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, November 19 2002 Volume
02 : Number 003
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 12:31:54 +0100
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine Problems - 1991 Dodge Stealth ES
Hello,
a friend of mine has a 1991 Dodge Stealth ES. The problem with his car is
that the idle speed is far too high (the engine will not run slower than
approx. 2000 rpm). Further, the engine speed moves up and down (around
1800 - 2000 rpm). When he drives it, from time to time, the engine is
"napping".
What can be the problem? Could it be the idle speed controller?
Roger
------------------------------
>BTW, the driveshaft that I have my eyes on is the PST one-piece CFDS.
>anyone think there's a problem with switching from a 3-piece to a
>1-piece?
Another option is the 2-piece metal-matrix aluminum driveshaft from
DynoTech. They use part of your old driveshaft to fabricate the smaller
section of the new driveshaft. One of the 2 original carrier bearings is
retained. You will also need to remove the old rear flange and have it
machined to fit the new shaft. I don't remember the exact numbers, but this
shaft weighs a lot less than the stock shaft and a little more than the
Carbon Fiber shaft. The price is $700 plus about $50 for the machining on
the flange. Three of us Michigan 3Sr's installed these on our cars this
summer and we're very happy with them.
Jeff W.
------------------------------
Sounds like the oil seal between the transaxle and engine. They change this
when they replace the clutch. How many miles on your car?
Every had the clutch replaced? Now might be a convenient time.
The transfer case oil leak should be coming from the transfer case which is
closer to the centerline of the car rather than the passenger side.
Maybe it would help if you put the front of the car up on jack stands and
got under it to see the source of the oil ...
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 07:12:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Thomas Labonte <
tnl7455@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fuel consumption at WOT
Hi All,
I have a stock '92 VR-4. A few weeks back I noticed
that my car
sometimes smelled like fuel. It seemed to
be most prevalent at startup
and under heavy throttle.
Also it seemed to have lost significant fuel
economy
(about 100 miles per tank.) I looked for the leak
and
noticed moisture around the fuel pressure regulator.
After I replaced
it, the fuel smell seems to have gone
away, and my mileage is back up closer
to where it
used to be. However, I began noticing that after I
go
through a few gears at WOT, the fuel gauge drops
noticeably lower -
from a half tick to a full tick on
the gauge. This is in the span of
about 10 seconds.
I never noticed this before my fuel problem.
This
does not seem right to me. Has anyone else had a
similar
problem, or is this normal?
It seems like I could empty the tank with about 20 1/4
mile runs.
I checked my mileage at last fill-up and it
was 20mpg with mostly highway
driving. I would expect
to be closer to 24. Aside from the fuel
consumption,
everything seems normal. Performance hasn't
degraded,
and I haven't seen any smoke from the exhaust.
Recently my
driving habits have changed by an
additional 200 miles of highway driving per
week, so
I'm unsure if what I'm seeing is normal or not. Also,
these
are Massachusetts Turnpike miles, so maybe I
should expect lower fuel economy
than "normal"
highway miles. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
-- Tom
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:30:02 -0500
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed bleeders
FYI I posted a thread on this on 3si.org parts for sale. Finally got them
in yesterday, looks like turbos have fatter bleeders on the front, but
check before buying to be 100%.
BTW I got the sheared stud fixed for $20+parts after hours at Midas.
Replaced all 5, with new nuts, 15 minutes or so. Everywhere locally wanted
$65-100+
Cheers and thanks for all the advice.
Andre
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andre Cerri
Sent: Thursday,
October 17, 2002 6:35 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speed bleeders
Thanks Dave. That looks like what they sent me. Checked the rears and they
appear to be the same as the fronts, i.e. a lot thinner than these. I
guess the NAs have smaller bleeders all round then?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:43:48 -0500
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Auto trans fluid
Suggestions for improved shifting (especially down shifting when coming to
a halt - clunks) in a 92 SL? Is Redline the best bet, and if so what
type?
How much do you buy as I know you can't all the old stuff out in one
go.
Does anyone else on the list even have an Auto Trans!!?!?!?!?!?!
:o)
Andre
------------------------------
Took my '93VR4 with 108kmiles to have the rear wheel bearings replaced at
the only dealer in town with the only three local mechanics who went to
VR4 training. Estimate was $100 parts plus $300 labor, which I thought was
okay. They claimed there was nothing wrong with the wheel bearings,
changed the differential fluid, and gave me back the car for $50. Because
the noise from the rear was still there, I took the car home and parked it
until I could disassemble it myself. After putting the car on
jackstands, and taking off the rear wheels, I found that the drivers side
axle was very loose as if there was no outer wheel bearing there any more.
In fact there was a bearing dust cover hanging loose behind the hub
assembly. They could not have looked at that wheel without finding
this.
Had the car platform towed back to satan and told them to replace the
bearings like I said this time. 1st parts estimate was $185 for ONE
bearing (later that turned out to be for one axle and both bearings on one
side). Now they say I need a trailing arm and axle. Their parts
price was $432 and $170 respectively. M&S recycling is now
sending the parts for $125 and $125 plus $10 core, less the 3Si
discount.
My 1st priority is to get the car fixed, then I will complain to their
customer service QA follow-up. Morale to the story: when you
take your car to the mechanic INSIST that they do the work that you
ordered. Story could've been a lot worse if the axle had given way on
the highway.
Chuck Willis
(Duh)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:26:07 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel consumption at WOT
Do you have any "T" fittings, Teflon tape, or such? This stuff would most
likely be used if you installed an aftermarket fuel pressure sensor [you
say the car's stock though], but such fittings may also be installed if
the previous owner did a quick patch of bad fuel lines. Check the line
from your pump to the front of your car. I just finished installing my fuel
pressure t-fitting a week ago and no matter how hard I torque the fitting
and no matter how much or little Teflon tape I use, I smell fuel from the
area. Other suggestions:
1) Dirty intake and fuel system (try some redline SI-1 before you take
stuff
apart)
2) Car's running rich - 1 or both oxygen sensor(s) are
bad
3) Leak at fuel pump output. That's where another of my fuel leaks
started
will have more suggestions but I'm stepping out right now . . .
riyan
93 rt tt
------------------------------
I was at the rolling road day - the dyno was a chassis dyno (measured at
the wheels). Compared to another session the previous year (not at
the same place), the results were around 30hp lower (comparing the same
persons car at both days, no differences in mods between sessions). We
came to the conclusion that we should be very skeptical of the results,
mainly because the cars weren't strapped down.
As an example, on the first run, my car measured around 240hp at the engine
peak !? On this run, I was next to the driver outside the car and
everything appeared normal (boost at 1 bar etc). On the second run,
I sat in the passenger seat and the dyno measured 293hp. As the car
pulls consistently on the road, the only conclusion I came up with was that me
sitting in the car (although I'm only 150 pounds) made more power go to
the drums. My car is an MR as well, so lighter than most. Any
other ideas?
The other interesting discovery was the difference in gear ratios of my MR
(5 speed) verses other "normal" 5-speeds. All the cars were run in
4th gear. Most had an indicated road speed (on the dyno) around
135MPH at 6000RPM, where-as mine was around 110MPH at 6K.
Simon Jones
'94 GTO (MR)
K&N, S/Steel Y-pipe
HKS D/pipe +
Super Drager, no Cats
Blitz DSBC @ 1.0 bar
ACT High Pressure Clutch
Big
Reds
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, November
18, 2002 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: dyno charts (GTO UK)
> There are a couple of types of chassis dynos and the
> engine
dyno. The chassis dyno or as the Brits say ---
> rolling road dyno are
wheel dynos. Brake dynos use
> electric motors to simulate load and can
actually
> simulate a road trip or a race track as far as drive
>
wheel load is concerned. The most common type in the
> US is the inertial
dyno which uses a weighted drum
> [pair of drums in the case of a 4 wheel
dyno]. The
> throttle is applied and the rate at which it
>
accelerates the drums is used to calculate HP. Many
> feel that the
results of the inertial dyno are very
>
optimistic.
>
> Jim
Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:36:29 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: 11/23-24 Sears Point HPDE?
> Just wondering if any 3S folks will be there?
>
> It would
be nice to meet some of you.
- ---------------------->
Eileen ("E.T.") and I will be at Sears Point (Infineon). And I just
spoke to Rick Pierce, and he and Laurie are planning to be there. He
told me that 2 more 3S's are coming up from San Diego to join us, as
well.
I'll make a formal post to the main Team3S list in a few minutes...
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 12:16:12 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Water pump
So my water pump started showing signs of leaking for the very first time,
IMMEDIATELY AFTER DOING AN OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!! My cousin was in a
different town with a different vehicle (Chevy truck), changed the oil,
and the water pump started leaking. Seems to be a rash of this going
around.
Am I crazy or does changing your oil kill your water pump? Someone please
tell me I'm superstitious and need to seek mental health care... I'm
baffled at these coincidences...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:20:11 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: help adjusting TPS please
I bought a new one and am installing it
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bedrock
[mailto:bedrock@attbi.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 12:18
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: help adjusting TPS please
Why are you adjusting it in the first place? did I miss a post on this? Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 137,000+
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Sent:
Saturday, November 16, 2002 5:57 PM
Subject: Team3S: help adjusting TPS
please
> ok, on the cd manual it says (13-34) to put a 0.65mm feeler gauge
> between the fixed SAS and the throttle lever
>
> first of
all, what is a feeler gauge?
>
> second, what is the SAS and
throttle lever, is that where the
> little hammer like thing hits the
screw looking thing when
> the car isn't being accelerated at all? I mean
when you are
> idling they are touching, but if you push the gas does a
gap
> appear between them then? I don't know how to describe it
>
too well, but hopefully somebody will get what I mean
>
> is there
anything else I need to know ... it says to check voltages
> and keep
turning clockwise more and more, etc
>
> when I put it on initially
(the tps) do I just sit it in
> place, or do I move the throttle cable any
(which moves
> the little copper colored markers ... which move the
tps
> things on the inside)?
>
> because I just sort of put it
in and screwed it in a little more
> clockwise than 12:00
>
>
now my isc readings on the pocketlogger never go below 60??!?
>
>
how could that affect it?
>
> it's reading 11% (tps on pocketlogger)
at idle, and goes up to 94%
> full throttle; it seems like it may be a
little slow getting there
> though, but I didn't try it out too much ...
I may have imagined that.
>
> thanks for any help
------------------------------
Nope..you just got "lucky".
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Desert Fox wrote:
> So my water pump started showing signs of leaking for the very first
> time, IMMEDIATELY AFTER DOING AN OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!! My cousin was in
> a different town with a different vehicle (Chevy truck), changed the
> oil, and the water pump started leaking. Seems to be a rash of this
> going around.
>
> Am I crazy or does changing your oil
kill your water pump? Someone
> please tell me I'm superstitious and need
to seek mental health
> care... I'm baffled at these
coincidences...
------------------------------
Hi guys,
I have a problem that at first occurred only every once in a
while, maybe
once every 6 months, but now is happening almost daily on my
'93 Stealth
(base model).
The problem is the engine, after warm-up and
driving, and then sitting
turned off, will not turn over next time I try to
start it. It doesn't even
try to turn over. It may happen after sitting for
just a few minutes or
several hours. My solution is to stick my foot out the
door with the car in
gear and rock it back and forth a couple times, and it
fires right up. I
thought it might be the battery not having enough cranking
power, but it
checks out OK, and like I said, it will start easily after a
little rocking. Any ideas? Thanks, Bob
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Robert
McKibben
Senior Designer
Schlumberger Conveyance & Delivery
Center
555 Industrial, Sugar Land, TX. 77478
281-285-7763
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:47:46 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel consumption at WOT
other things to check:
1) (after using redline SI-1 injector cleaner and no improvement)... send
your injectors to RC engineering for cleaning and flow-matching. Injectors
tend to "gum up" more if that car has been left sitting for awhile. Has
yours been left sitting for more than 2 months or so recently?
2) check your tire pressure! a commonly overlooked problem...
3) how do your spark plugs look? try pulling out a few from the front
bank
that should get you started...
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:59:05 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ticking after 4000 rpm
today I took the car for a spin and listened closely (as usual). This time
I slowly increased revs to 4000 in first gear. I hear a ticking noise
after 4000 rpm. This one is a little bit louder and more rhythmic, but
perhaps it's related to the barely audible one that I hear between 600 and
1000 rpm. Man this car makes me so nervous. I mean it runs well, but I want it
to run perfect. For those of you with lifter tick, how does it seem to
change with rpm? Anyone else hear a tick similar to this one?
I can't get that oil pressure light to come back on either. It's just too
cold now, even during the day. So I'll just give it up and swap out the
switch. I'm going to get down to the real diagnosis that I mentioned in my
other post "which bearings are accessible when oil pan is dropped?" soon.
Well I have a huge list of errands to run so I most likely won't get to it for
a few days.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
money hole mod :(
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:16:19 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Main bearing differences
Does anyone offhand know of any significant differences between stock mitsu
main bearings and clevite?
Particularly if the oil ports are larger?
Reason I ask is while doing some thinking over the weekend I realized that
with my new crank (ordering tonight) I will need a new bearing set.
And with all the other parts I have bought for this damn block I really
don't want to just stuff in stock mitsu components if their is a better
option out there.
Also would enlarging the oil ports and chamfering the larger opening on the
bearings have any detrimental effect that I am not foreseeing?
Russ F
CT
P.S. if it helps any I am going with JE 8.5:1 with a .40 overbore and valve
relief's cut into the pistons, crower rods, a stock 2G crank, and ARP
hardware wherever available/applicable.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:18:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Id suspect that the only differences are that you can get Mitsu in
different sizes based on crank and journal diameters..clevite you
cant.
That's how they are in the Toyota world...they have the standard (one size
must fit all..does for Detroit) syndrome.
Also..larger ports wont make a difference..as long as they're as large as
the port outta the crank..
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> Does anyone offhand know of any significant differences between stock
> mitsu main bearings and clevite?
>
> Particularly if the
oil ports are larger?
>
> Reason I ask is while doing some thinking
over the weekend I realized
> that with my new crank (ordering tonight) I
will need a new bearing
> set. And with all the other parts I have
bought for this damn block I
> really don't want to just stuff in stock
mitsu components if their is
> a better option out there.
>
> Also would enlarging the oil ports and chamfering the larger opening
> on the bearings have any detrimental effect that I am not
foreseeing?
>
> Russ F
> CT
>
> P.S. if it helps
any I am going with JE 8.5:1 with a .40 overbore and
> valve relief's cut
into the pistons, crower rods, a stock 2G crank,
> and ARP hardware
wherever available/applicable.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 13:18:13 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water pump
Thanks to all who confirmed my mental defectiveness. Perhaps I will have to
resume consumption of alcoholic beverages once again in therapy...
I'm at 106,000 miles and was getting prepared for the next 60K. Now it is
happening tomorrow instead of next year...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> Unfortunately, you are crazy and do need some psychological
help!
> j/k. There's no tie between the pump and the oil. The
water pump is
> driven by the timing belt. There's no oil within
the entire circuit
> of the cooling system (sans the oil cooling
system). So, it's just a
> co-inky-dink that you're pump went out
following a routine oil change.
>
> Sorry about the problem (it's
costly to fix!!!).
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:25:49 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Geoff and anyone else.... Do you think enlarging the oil ports in the
crank and bearings would help reduce the likely hood of spun
bearings?
I have already ordered a new factory oil pump (mine has over 120K miles so
it was due) but I really am concerned about having my bearings just let
go.... (700 AWHP wont help the situation any)
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 3:19
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Id suspect that the only differences are that you can get Mitsu in
different sizes based on crank and journal diameters..clevite you
cant.
That's how they are in the Toyota world...they have the standard (one size
must fit all..does for Detroit) syndrome.
Also..larger ports wont make a difference..as long as they're as large as
the port outta the crank..
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:28:11 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Nope. Chamfering the holes maybe..but I've seen no evidence that its
a starvation problem..in the end..you wont be able to drill out the entire
crank, so whatever difference you try to make, will make no
difference.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:43:48 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
So basically put the miserable piece of s*** back together correctly and
just pray.... Anybody know a good priest to perform an
exorcism?
If it isn't a starvation problem than what is causing the rash of spun
bearings that occurred? I mean seriously 3SI.org has sticky on this
and just glancing through they had a total of like 8 cars with this
issue..........
Russ F
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 3:28
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Nope. Chamfering the holes maybe..but I've seen no evidence that its
a starvation problem..in the end..you wont be able to drill out the entire
crank, so whatever difference you try to make, will make no
difference.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:46:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
I spun one from starvation, because I had a dent in my oil pan.
If it was a design issue..like the MK3 supra BHG, you'd see a _lot_ more of
it than what you currently do.
IMHO..you'll start to see this more and more as the oil pump hardware
ages..what, were talking old cars here.
At those power levels you should be shiming the pump, being REALLY picky on
bearing clearances, make damn sure your oil temps are reasonable (do you
know?), and be using a recommended high shear capable oil.
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> So basically put the miserable piece of s*** back together correctly
> and just pray.... Anybody know a good priest to perform an
exorcism?
>
> If it isn't a starvation problem than what is causing
the rash of spun
> bearings that occurred? I mean seriously 3SI.org
has sticky on this
> and just glancing through they had a total of like 8
cars with this
> issue..........
>
> Russ F
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:59:39 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Again that is why I ordered a new oil pump, shimming the pump is going to
increase oil pressure but not significantly increase oil flow volume (did
my homework on this already). Other problem with increased oil pressure is
the cartridge section of the turbo can become overloaded and harm the
cartridge (not looking to replace either turbo for 2K a piece)
As for oil temps prior to the tear down I never checked them, however I
already have a whole list of gauges to run (Front + Rear EGT, fuel
pressure, boost press, oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp)
My information says nothing over 210F (IIRC) should it be lower than
this a little higher?
And for higher shear oil what are my options? I was thinking Royal
Purple 10W40.....
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 3:46
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
I spun one from starvation, because I had a dent in my oil pan.
If it was a design issue..like the MK3 supra BHG, you'd see a _lot_ more of
it than what you currently do.
IMHO..you'll start to see this more and more as the oil pump hardware
ages..what, were talking old cars here.
At those power levels you should be shiming the pump, being REALLY picky on
bearing clearances, make damn sure your oil temps are reasonable (do you
know?), and be using a recommended high shear capable oil.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:10:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Also..I haven't seen anyone else on any other car list I'm on..have turbo
issues with increased pressure.
Increased pressure CAN help you with volume at the end of the crank..IF its
an 'end of the crank supply issue'. Just that you wont get more
volume at the head of the crank.
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> Again that is why I ordered a new oil pump, shimming the pump is going
> to increase oil pressure but not significantly increase oil flow
> volume (did my homework on this already). Other problem with increased
> oil pressure is the cartridge section of the turbo can become
>
overloaded and harm the cartridge (not looking to replace either turbo
>
for 2K a piece)
>
> As for oil temps prior to the tear down I never
checked them, however
> I already have a whole list of gauges to run
(Front + Rear EGT, fuel
> pressure, boost press, oil pressure, oil temp,
and water temp)
>
> My information says nothing over 210F
(IIRC) should it be lower than
> this a little higher?
>
> And for higher shear oil what are my options? I was thinking
Royal
> Purple 10W40.....
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:09:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
210 is a great place to be. :)
Honest..you guys should ALL have oil temp gauges if you open track.
No buts about it.
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> Again that is why I ordered a new oil pump, shimming the pump is going
> to increase oil pressure but not significantly increase oil flow
> volume (did my homework on this already). Other problem with increased
> oil pressure is the cartridge section of the turbo can become
>
overloaded and harm the cartridge (not looking to replace either turbo
>
for 2K a piece)
>
> As for oil temps prior to the tear down I never
checked them, however
> I already have a whole list of gauges to run
(Front + Rear EGT, fuel
> pressure, boost press, oil pressure, oil temp,
and water temp)
>
> My information says nothing over 210F
(IIRC) should it be lower than
> this a little higher?
>
> And for higher shear oil what are my options? I was thinking
Royal
> Purple 10W40.....
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:20:43 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
I have only seen it on 2 DSM's and both literally forced out the cartridge
section seals at WOT (not cool when you are the car behind these 2 and end
up taking a bath in hot engine oil) DAMHIK :0
Approximately how much of an increase should I am for? 10% 20%
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 4:11
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Also..I haven't seen anyone else on any other car list I'm on..have turbo
issues with increased pressure.
Increased pressure CAN help you with volume at the end of the crank..IF its
an 'end of the crank supply issue'. Just that you wont get more
volume at the head of the crank.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:22:33 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
I dunno..to be honest, just "more". I think we raised the celica to
80psi from OEM of 40-60psi.
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> I have only seen it on 2 DSM's and both literally forced out the
> cartridge section seals at WOT (not cool when you are the car behind
> these 2 and end up taking a bath in hot engine oil) DAMHIK :0
>
> Approximately how much of an increase should I am for? 10%
20%
>
> Russ F
> CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:36:14 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
So you did 25% increase for warm at idle or something else? I just
don't want to ruin all my hard work just because I didn't address a
possible "fault".
Also could you send me a separate reply with my options for oil coolers? I
am looking for one about 11-12" wide, 10-11" tall and about 1.5-2" thick.
AN fittings would be preferred, and the original core I ordered was too
wide and would fit in the stock drivers side IC location.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 4:23
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
I dunno..to be honest, just "more". I think we raised the celica to
80psi from OEM of 40-60psi.
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> I have only seen it on 2 DSM's and both literally forced out the
> cartridge section seals at WOT (not cool when you are the car behind
> these 2 and end up taking a bath in hot engine oil) DAMHIK :0
>
> Approximately how much of an increase should I am for? 10%
20%
>
> Russ F
> CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 13:42:34 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Main bearing differences
How big of a dent, and what were you doing with the car? I have a small
dent in my oil pan right now. No drag, track, or anything past 4500 RPM
until I'm more confident in my engine though. Should I get a new oil
pan?
"Geoff M." wrote:
I spun one from starvation, because I had a dent in my
oil pan.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:06:34 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: driveshaft install
Wal-mart has electric impact wrenches for $20 or so these days. Supposed to
be good for over 200 ft-lbs, but I have not needed that much force to
date.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Moe Prasad
[mailto:mprasad@uswest.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 10:44
AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: driveshaft install
Everything is easy except for the flange that has to be swapped in the
back.
You will need a very good impact wrench to take it off. What we did
was went to the Auto Zone and borrowed their electric impact wrench and
that did the trick. We did have a hard time to get them to lend it
us but they finally gave in.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:25:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
Its a flat spring rate increase..it wont change anything except max
pressure...
I'll do that privately as well.
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> So you did 25% increase for warm at idle or something else? I
just
> don't want to ruin all my hard work just because I didn't address
a
> possible "fault".
>
> Also could you send me a separate
reply with my options for oil
> coolers? I am looking for one about
11-12" wide, 10-11" tall and about
> 1.5-2" thick. AN fittings would be
preferred, and the original core I
> ordered was too wide and would fit
in the stock drivers side IC
> location.
>
> Russ F
>
CT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:28:43 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Main bearing differences
If the dent is on the flat bottom..be afraid.
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> How big of a dent, and what were you doing with the car? I have a
> small dent in my oil pan right now. No drag, track, or anything past
> 4500 RPM until I'm more confident in my engine though. Should I get a
> new oil pan?
>
> "Geoff M." wrote:
> I spun one from
starvation, because I had a dent in my oil pan.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:10:24 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Main bearing differences
I'm afraid :(
guess I'll add that to the quickly growing parts list, and drive her even
slower.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
- ------------------------>
"G.M." wrote:
If the dent is on the flat bottom..be afraid.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 18:50:02 -0600
From: "Mark and Brenda" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NA test pipe
Hi gang! I think my catalytic converter could be a little clogged due to
the oil burning from my old engine, has anyone used a test pipe to replace
the converter on the NA? Will it work better than a new converter or will
it turn the check engine light on or cause some other problems? Also I am
going to put my old engine on ebay for sale, how much should I start the bidding
at? The engine has 150000 miles on it, it still runs strong but smoked
alot
at idle and low RPM. TIA.
Mark, 92 ES almost new engine, and rebuilt tranny!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:54:48 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: NA test pipe
If you need a test pipe check my site tyspeedperformance.com . You can read
online about the differences they make. I think cats are a waste and a
total BS system, but others may differ. They will not turn on your CE
light. Far as your motor, put the reserve at $800 and hope for the best.
Burning oil could be so many things that I do not think anyone would risk
spending more than $1000.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark and Brenda
Sent: Monday,
November 18, 2002 4:50 PM
Subject: Team3S: NA test pipe
Hi gang! I think my catalytic converter could be a little clogged due to
the oil burning from my old engine, has anyone used a test pipe to replace
the converter on the NA? Will it work better than a new converter or will
it turn the check engine light on or cause some other problems? Also I am
going to put my old engine on ebay for sale, how much should I start the bidding
at? The engine has 150000 miles on it, it still runs strong but smoked
alot
at idle and low RPM. TIA.
Mark, 92 ES almost new engine, and rebuilt tranny!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:24:17 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
supercharger on an NA
hi guys-
I remember reading somewhere about putting a supercharger on an N/A. . is
it
possible, and is there any1 that actually makes 1?
I have always heard the belts are on the wrong side for such a setup. .
.
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 18:28:53 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: 11/23-24 Sears Point HPDE?
If I catch you using Infinion one more time I'm going to come up there
and beat you with a stick --- don't encourage those guys.
Jim Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
>
Eileen ("E.T.") and I will be at Sears Point (Infineon). And I just
> spoke to Rick Pierce, and he and Laurie are planning to be there.
He
> told me that 2 more 3S's are coming up from San Diego to join us, as
> well.
>
> I'll make a formal post to the main Team3S list
in a few minutes...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 20:37:48 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: 11/23-24 Sears Point HPDE?
Ya..we can boycott all products with their crap in it.
Move into a cave in Peru..
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, fastmax wrote:
> If I catch you using Infinion one more time I'm going to come up
there
> and beat you with a stick --- don't encourage those guys.
>
> Jim Berry
==============================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 20:08:39 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Main bearing differences
Not so !!! the rebuild manual refers to assorted bearings with differences
in size in the range of half a mill but in fact they only offer the
standard size. They don't recommend turning the crank so they only offer
one size. Clevite and others have four sizes ranging from ¼ mm [ .010" ]
to 1mm [ .040" ] --- that requires of course a turned crank which in turn must
be nitrided. IMHO as the crank is undercut the crank should be turned to a
maximum of .010" even though you can get bearings up to .040" --- at
.030" the under cut is mostly eliminated.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Monday, November 18, 2002 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Main bearing
differences
> Id suspect that the only differences are that you can get Mitsu in
> different sizes based on crank and journal diameters..clevite you
> cant.
>
> That's how they are in the Toyota world...they
have the standard (one
> size must fit all..does for Detroit)
syndrome.
>
> Also..larger ports wont make a difference..as long as
they're as large
> as the port outta the crank..
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:14:57 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Team 3S: Lifter Tick GONE w/ 1 Can !!!
Hey list I have successfully gotten rid of my awful lifter/lash adjuster
ticking. I have been trying different oil, oil filters,
additives(even the ATF treatment) with no luck. Finally I remembered
my father telling me way back when about this stuff that worked really good for
his old jeep. It's a silver can of oil additive called "RESTORE" and
they sell it in different sizes depending on how many cylinders your car
has (6 for us). So I am at AutoZone and I think well I'll try
it. I had just done an oil change, this time with cheap Pennzoil 10-30 and
a cheap Pennzoil filter, about 500 miles before this. Even though
you are supposed to add it in right after an oil change I thought I'd try
it. I poured it in and started it up...... It ticked for about 2
seconds and very quickly died down to NOTHING. HEHEHEHE I had a big grin
on my face and am totally happy with it now, I don't hate my car
anymore! It has been 2 weeks now since I did this and still never a
sign that the ticking is coming back at all---I just wanted to be sure it
worked until I wrote to the list.
NOW I want some other people to try this that have bad ticking and see if
it works wonders for you too or if I'm just lucky.
I hope maybe this proves to be an inexpensive way to fix the ever present
ticking.
- -Erik
'91 Stealth (Much quieter now!).
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:49:37 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <
nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team 3S: Lifter Tick GONE w/ 1 Can !!!
I'm always leery about any kind of an additive that says that it "fills in"
anything. Generally products that do this also tend to clog small oil
passages. Good luck with the product, I think I'll pass for now and get
2nd gen lifters instead.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 23:57:29 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team 3S: Lifter Tick GONE w/ 1 Can !!!
After further searching I found their corporate website.
I'm not an expert on it or the whole theory on why it worked for me or
anything like that, I just know it works.
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
> Cheap fixes are cool! I'll probably do it this weekend.
> What
exactly is that stuff? I'm in Japan so I don't
> have autozone. I don't
have that problem now but just
> for future reference. Kuruma
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 08:02:30 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: what is the fixed SAS and throttle lever?
these two parts touch, what are they?
thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#3
*************************************